Man a year later and I couldn't thank you enough for this video first time av took mine apart couldn't of done it without watching your help vid thank you
Tbh I didn’t really watch the outcast bit but now I can see the problems you have with the differential. I’ve searched up metal diffs suitable for the Kraton 4s but nothing comes up besides the hot racing diffs which are super expensive.
With bladder style shocks you want to make sure you get every bit of air out. You need to let the shock sit for a few minutes to let air bubbles rise then fill it just about to the brim. Then push the shock shaft about 3/4 the way in and put the the cap on while holding the shaft in place. You want to see fuild squeeze out as you screw the cap on. Once done check to make sure the shaft doesn't push out or suck in when you move it and let go. Leaving air in it the way you did will leadto inconsistent damping as the air moves around.
Thanks for all the info man I know sometimes I get a little impatient and don’t make sure all the air is out I’ve had a couple of them where you can feel the air in there, when you went to push the shaft in it got real hard.
@@BarstoneRC if it gets really hard when you push the shaft it it's because the shaft was too far out when you put it together. When you push the shaft in it needs to displace some of the oil and if it was too far out when it was assembled the bladder can't accommodate the displacement. Air will feel like variations in damping as you push the shaft in and out.
Great video, have the same problem happened on my very first run in the first ten minutes yokes melted, motor mount plate melted, just a disaster but arrma is sending me all new parts. Just have to get busy when they get here, I'll be referencing this video for sure 👍. Thnx keep em coming.
The grease that’s inside the differential case I use 100,000 weight diff Grease. I’m not sure which stuff they use from the factory it’s a lighter grease. But they sell bottles of it at the hobby shop you can get all different weights of grease the heavier you go the less your differential will slip.
Tightening the slipper all the way down and backing it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn as been standard practice for at least the last 15 years with any slipper. Using loctite so it doesnt back out isnt going to do anything apart from making it really hard to get that nut off the next time you service the slipper. If it it did back off and get looser all thats going to do is allow the slipper to slip easier which would do nothing to the diff.
Damn dude after watching this video I’m realizing you are experiencing everything I have. BUT!! I’ve been doing this song and dance with 3 trucks. Two granite 3S and a kraton 4S. Every time we take them out we strip gears and then lately the parts are not in stock anywhere so we have to wait a week or more for them. Only to h e it happen again!!! I spend more time fixing them than driving them. Charging 4 packs and only getting to use 2. I’m honestly just fed up with Arrma.
Yeah the Parts issues over the last five or six months has been really crazy prior to Covid and all of that I was never experiencing any issues getting stuff but if you’re running into stripping gears out a lot I would definitely look into shimming the differentials because usually that will fix it. If that’s what stripping.
After I shimmed the rear end and got it set up I haven’t had any issues with the differentials since then. I was running into a lot of issues with the clutch and drive shafts breaking but I have since upgraded the driveshaft and rebuilt the clutch and so far it’s holding up good.
I have to put on a spur gear on my typhon 3s and have to re - tighten that slipper clutch ...I hope I get it right you said tighten all the way and quarter back off turn and loctite right ..I hope I get right or I’ll be watching this video with diff parts lol. I’m also gonna turn my punch back to factory I heard turning up isn’t good on diffs..thx for vids love trying to figure this hobby out
Yeah the mesh is pretty nice on it I said it a while ago I Shim all of my rear ends from the start but I’m going with 50,000 in the differentials now and see what that’s like
Thanks a lot for the tutorial ! What do you think about the upgrade of metal diff from Arrma ? ( AR310885) Is it a good upgrade you think or not ? Thank you ! :)
Well I was thinking about putting the aluminum differential in mine but I first put the hot racing aluminum differential yolks on it and I haven’t had any issues with mine since doing that with having gears stripped or anything like that. If I ever start having issues again I probably will do the aluminum differential with the metal gears.
You need to read the manual for the outcast 6s and it will tell you exactly how to rebuild the shocks. It says that from factory they use 1000 cst which is 80wt. So If you're using 50wt your way off from factory. I have a notorious 6s v4 and I also use m2c shock caps and oring pistons with tlr 80wt 1000cst and have only had to add oil 1 time in a year of bashing. Thanks
I think thats the issue from fatory they come with a really tight mesh i really think they made it that way for the diff to break in and after a few runs the diff spins quite smootly
If you start to hear clicking noise when you spin the diff means there is play between the crowngear and sun gear the new did i have put with a tight mesh was not making any of that before bearing seized
I think I found out what’s been going on though and I’ve been chasing my tail between the clutch in the rear diff. When I had the clutch set up properly it would slip like crazy so I would crank it in all the way tight because it was the only way it was working properly, but then it would rip the rear differential apart. And I finally found out what was wrong and it’s my clutch. And I’m embarrassed to say this LOL but I finally pulled the clutch the whole way apart and found out that my spring that is supposed to be on the screw in the clutch like normal broken to pieces and that’s why it was not working obviously. So I ordered a clutch rebuild kit I’m assuming that’s going to fix my problem.
@@BarstoneRC my clutch was set proprely since i got the yokes but i have put the new diff to spin smootly with the shim on thenopposite side from factory after a few runs it started like clicking when i remive the motor but it always made this sound but now i learned you dont want to heardlicking because itmeans the sun gear has play between the crowngear teeths i made the mesh tight on my new diff a week on it was not making any clicking but my bearing seized and melted one side of the diff lol and i broke the chassi by hitting a tree and front diff has rock damage in a few teeths i had to break my typhon 3s bumper 2 days before now im chasing to get a 4s tbone racing from the kraton or outcast all out of stock exept the outcast one who is a discusting blue but i need one its my top priority before running the truck
Been rough on the cars lately? LOL but yes I am currently as we speak rebuilding the clutch on this thing with all of the new parts in the spring which was missing. So hopefully this helps or takes care of the problem. Because I really think that the issue was I was having to crank the clutch down all the way in order to get the clutch to stop slipping but then I was ruining the diff
@@BarstoneRC i ussualy jump on a hill i was messing up with the diff oils and i missed the hill car dissapeared behind it and smashed a tree i did not saw the impact so i though it was fine because i have hit harder than that(when i had a bumper) and after a few jumps i noticed my chassi in the front diff was completly snaped and i bended the CNC motor mount from arrma that pissed me off have been trought a fee motor mounts but they were the casted ones lol i had a spare chassi at home
next time your at the hobby shop grab some 80wt to try for the 6s... you may like it..👍.. make sure they also have the 1.2 pistons installed and not the 1.4.. 👍..
Yeah if you want to make them compress slower with more resistance you want to go with the heavier weight shock oil, so if you have a 30 weight or something like that in there now you want to go to a 50 or 60 depending on how hard you want it. I went with a heavier oil than 50 before but I started breaking more shocks because the shocks weren’t compressing fast enough when you land really hard at least that’s what it seemed like I was running into. So that’s why the 50 weight has been working out pretty well for me it’s a good balance.
4S. It only had about 10 runs on it. I got it right before the shutdown and it broke two days in. The Hot Racing diff is coming through my hobby shop and still isn't in.
I just put one of the hot racing differential housings on my V4 6s and it’s holding up great I’m going to do it to the other cars I’m having issues on.
@@BarstoneRC Yes, hot racing differential and housings is good, I can tell the arrma make new products for improve the strong spider diff and differential on Kraton 6S EXB roller can let bush hard.
Also, every 1/10 arrma such as Kraton/Outcast, Bigrock, Granite, Senton and Typhon diff are huge if put it CNC differential very strongest than 1/8 kraton diff.
Yeah I use the 100K in the front and the rear end on the 6S cars in the center DIff. Some people run 50 or 60 K in the front and rear’s with 100 K in the center but I just run the same in all.
@@BarstoneRC whatt 100k diff oil i quess thats one factor for the diff failing lol thats a lot of stress when driving and cornering XD I RUN 10k was messing with 20k and 6k lately
Yeah it feels really good! It’s a lot easier to do wheelies because you have both tires spinning instead of just one and it flips better in the air. I just got done rebuilding the clutch on this thing and it feels so much better I’m really hoping that I fixed my problem the part 2 Video will be out a little later today.
A lot of guys lock up their differentials completely with a silicone earplugs or something I don’t wanna do that I do want it to slip a little bit but not as much as it was from stock.
Was workig until my bearing decided to poop and melted the side where the bearing seats on diff looks good still but bearing just wobbles now it was one week old diff
Man a year later and I couldn't thank you enough for this video first time av took mine apart couldn't of done it without watching your help vid thank you
Man i love to hear this kind of stuff. Thanks so much for watching and I’m glad it helped ya buddy
Loosing my mind till I seen this. The kraton rear diff part just saved me some headache. Excellent video. Thanks
Awesome man I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching
Tbh I didn’t really watch the outcast bit but now I can see the problems you have with the differential. I’ve searched up metal diffs suitable for the Kraton 4s but nothing comes up besides the hot racing diffs which are super expensive.
Arrma is making some now. They launched with the v3 3s
Upgraded all diffs to hot racing
Makes a hell of a difference
After I put the hot racing aluminum differential yolks on I’ve never had another issue with it luckily.
With bladder style shocks you want to make sure you get every bit of air out. You need to let the shock sit for a few minutes to let air bubbles rise then fill it just about to the brim. Then push the shock shaft about 3/4 the way in and put the the cap on while holding the shaft in place. You want to see fuild squeeze out as you screw the cap on. Once done check to make sure the shaft doesn't push out or suck in when you move it and let go. Leaving air in it the way you did will leadto inconsistent damping as the air moves around.
Thanks for all the info man I know sometimes I get a little impatient and don’t make sure all the air is out I’ve had a couple of them where you can feel the air in there, when you went to push the shaft in it got real hard.
@@BarstoneRC if it gets really hard when you push the shaft it it's because the shaft was too far out when you put it together. When you push the shaft in it needs to displace some of the oil and if it was too far out when it was assembled the bladder can't accommodate the displacement. Air will feel like variations in damping as you push the shaft in and out.
Makes sense. Thanks for the info man I really appreciate that that’s what’s great about this channel and everyone learning and sharing information.
@@BarstoneRC for sure. The community is what it's all about:)
Part of the fun this
Great vid 👍
Thanks bud I appreciate it
How cute is that little oil change!
Great video bro very informative
Thanks bud I’m glad it was helpful.
Thanks for this vid I found it helpful and now I know what I need to note and remember if I get this issue
Great up date mate
Brilliant editing very clear 💪🏽❤️👍🏽
Thanks bud. Appreciate it
Great video, have the same problem happened on my very first run in the first ten minutes yokes melted, motor mount plate melted, just a disaster but arrma is sending me all new parts. Just have to get busy when they get here, I'll be referencing this video for sure 👍. Thnx keep em coming.
Thanks man if you ever have any questions that I can help with feel free to ask
@@BarstoneRC thank you I definitely will, this will be my first diff fix. Little anxious lol. I'll be in touch 👍
Sounds good man.
@@BarstoneRC what kind of grease was that on the sun gear?
The grease that’s inside the differential case I use 100,000 weight diff Grease. I’m not sure which stuff they use from the factory it’s a lighter grease. But they sell bottles of it at the hobby shop you can get all different weights of grease the heavier you go the less your differential will slip.
Thanks for all the helpful info. Very well done!
Glad it helped bud. Thanks for watching!!
Tightening the slipper all the way down and backing it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn as been standard practice for at least the last 15 years with any slipper. Using loctite so it doesnt back out isnt going to do anything apart from making it really hard to get that nut off the next time you service the slipper. If it it did back off and get looser all thats going to do is allow the slipper to slip easier which would do nothing to the diff.
the diiferential setup between 4S and 6S is really different ! but finally we've got the problem !!lol
Damn dude after watching this video I’m realizing you are experiencing everything I have. BUT!! I’ve been doing this song and dance with 3 trucks. Two granite 3S and a kraton 4S. Every time we take them out we strip gears and then lately the parts are not in stock anywhere so we have to wait a week or more for them. Only to h e it happen again!!!
I spend more time fixing them than driving them. Charging 4 packs and only getting to use 2. I’m honestly just fed up with Arrma.
Yeah the Parts issues over the last five or six months has been really crazy prior to Covid and all of that I was never experiencing any issues getting stuff but if you’re running into stripping gears out a lot I would definitely look into shimming the differentials because usually that will fix it. If that’s what stripping.
After I shimmed the rear end and got it set up I haven’t had any issues with the differentials since then. I was running into a lot of issues with the clutch and drive shafts breaking but I have since upgraded the driveshaft and rebuilt the clutch and so far it’s holding up good.
Shim those diffs
You can get 2 to 4 shims on each diff. They go on the Ring gear side under the bearing.
I have to put on a spur gear on my typhon 3s and have to re - tighten that slipper clutch ...I hope I get it right you said tighten all the way and quarter back off turn and loctite right ..I hope I get right or I’ll be watching this video with diff parts lol. I’m also gonna turn my punch back to factory I heard turning up isn’t good on diffs..thx for vids love trying to figure this hobby out
All the way right then back it out 1 and 1/4 turn.
If you feel a new diff it is not loose and free. They are tight as hell. You want your mesh pretty tight so it won't strip out.
Yeah the mesh is pretty nice on it I said it a while ago I Shim all of my rear ends from the start but I’m going with 50,000 in the differentials now and see what that’s like
Shim those diffs I got some Tekno shims. You can also double up Arrma shims
Nah, arrma just needs to stop lying to us and put metal gears in.
Thanks a lot for the tutorial ! What do you think about the upgrade of metal diff from Arrma ? ( AR310885) Is it a good upgrade you think or not ? Thank you ! :)
Well I was thinking about putting the aluminum differential in mine but I first put the hot racing aluminum differential yolks on it and I haven’t had any issues with mine since doing that with having gears stripped or anything like that. If I ever start having issues again I probably will do the aluminum differential with the metal gears.
@@BarstoneRC Okay ! Thank you for your reply ! :)
Great vid
Thanks I appreciate the feedback man.
You need to read the manual for the outcast 6s and it will tell you exactly how to rebuild the shocks. It says that from factory they use 1000 cst which is 80wt. So If you're using 50wt your way off from factory. I have a notorious 6s v4 and I also use m2c shock caps and oring pistons with tlr 80wt 1000cst and have only had to add oil 1 time in a year of bashing. Thanks
Yeah I have moved the shock oil way up since this video was made I was first told it had much lighter oil in it but as you said that was way off.
So I just got one of these Friday. Guy said he's done messing with it because the rear diff keeps going out. Did the HR diff yoke fix that for you?
It helped a lot with this problem
@@BarstoneRC awsome thank you! Get these now and sometime down the road probably get the all HR diffs
I think thats the issue from fatory they come with a really tight mesh i really think they made it that way for the diff to break in and after a few runs the diff spins quite smootly
If you start to hear clicking noise when you spin the diff means there is play between the crowngear and sun gear the new did i have put with a tight mesh was not making any of that before bearing seized
I think I found out what’s been going on though and I’ve been chasing my tail between the clutch in the rear diff. When I had the clutch set up properly it would slip like crazy so I would crank it in all the way tight because it was the only way it was working properly, but then it would rip the rear differential apart. And I finally found out what was wrong and it’s my clutch. And I’m embarrassed to say this LOL but I finally pulled the clutch the whole way apart and found out that my spring that is supposed to be on the screw in the clutch like normal broken to pieces and that’s why it was not working obviously. So I ordered a clutch rebuild kit I’m assuming that’s going to fix my problem.
@@BarstoneRC my clutch was set proprely since i got the yokes but i have put the new diff to spin smootly with the shim on thenopposite side from factory after a few runs it started like clicking when i remive the motor but it always made this sound but now i learned you dont want to heardlicking because itmeans the sun gear has play between the crowngear teeths i made the mesh tight on my new diff a week on it was not making any clicking but my bearing seized and melted one side of the diff lol and i broke the chassi by hitting a tree and front diff has rock damage in a few teeths i had to break my typhon 3s bumper 2 days before now im chasing to get a 4s tbone racing from the kraton or outcast all out of stock exept the outcast one who is a discusting blue but i need one its my top priority before running the truck
Been rough on the cars lately? LOL but yes I am currently as we speak rebuilding the clutch on this thing with all of the new parts in the spring which was missing. So hopefully this helps or takes care of the problem. Because I really think that the issue was I was having to crank the clutch down all the way in order to get the clutch to stop slipping but then I was ruining the diff
@@BarstoneRC i ussualy jump on a hill i was messing up with the diff oils and i missed the hill car dissapeared behind it and smashed a tree i did not saw the impact so i though it was fine because i have hit harder than that(when i had a bumper) and after a few jumps i noticed my chassi in the front diff was completly snaped and i bended the CNC motor mount from arrma that pissed me off have been trought a fee motor mounts but they were the casted ones lol i had a spare chassi at home
🇩🇪Gibt es die Teile auch in Deutschland zu kaufen?🇩🇪
Have you tried using shims in your diffs. 1 or 2 on the Ring gear side really helps tighten them up
Yeah I shim all of my cars.
next time your at the hobby shop grab some 80wt to try for the 6s... you may like it..👍.. make sure they also have the 1.2 pistons installed and not the 1.4.. 👍..
I’ll probably give that a try I just got the outcast all back together today I finally got the wing mount .
@@BarstoneRC sweet man! you go with the rpm mount?
I have the rpm coming but it was going to take a couple weeks but the hobby shop had the stock one I put back on for now.
@@BarstoneRC gotcha buddy, well its cool your back running again..👍
Hey brother mind explaining the difference in oil weight I'm looking into stiffening up my shocks so do i get a heavier weight ??
Yeah if you want to make them compress slower with more resistance you want to go with the heavier weight shock oil, so if you have a 30 weight or something like that in there now you want to go to a 50 or 60 depending on how hard you want it. I went with a heavier oil than 50 before but I started breaking more shocks because the shocks weren’t compressing fast enough when you land really hard at least that’s what it seemed like I was running into. So that’s why the 50 weight has been working out pretty well for me it’s a good balance.
@@BarstoneRC gonna pick some 50 weight tomorrow thanks for the info
Anytime man.
I’ve only ever driven mine on 3s
3S smart. Take your bearings apart, take out the seals and grease them. My rear diff bearings seized and melted the yoke and stripped the gears.
Shimstock74 wow that is some pretty funky action going on there😂 were you driving on 4s or 8s?
4S. It only had about 10 runs on it. I got it right before the shutdown and it broke two days in. The Hot Racing diff is coming through my hobby shop and still isn't in.
I have never ran mine on anything but 4s
Is the arrma kraton diff the same as granite blx diff??
All the 3s and 4s are the same.
O.k are differential spool lockers any good ??
I wouldn’t lock the rear. Handles terribly
310772
310885
310886.
About $44 for one set.
Does anyone know what weight fluid came stock in the rear differential
I’m not sure but I thought like 20k or something like that
Ok thanks
10k
10,000 stock
CNC diff = bulletproof diff.
I just put one of the hot racing differential housings on my V4 6s and it’s holding up great I’m going to do it to the other cars I’m having issues on.
@@BarstoneRC Yes, hot racing differential and housings is good, I can tell the arrma make new products for improve the strong spider diff and differential on Kraton 6S EXB roller can let bush hard.
Also, every 1/10 arrma such as Kraton/Outcast, Bigrock, Granite, Senton and Typhon diff are huge if put it CNC differential very strongest than 1/8 kraton diff.
Yeah I just had the V4 out again today beating the hell out of it and it’s holding up awesome with that new differential housing.
What's the white grease you put on the outside of your diff called much appreciated
It’s a white lithium grease. They sell it at most auto parts stores in probably Walmart
@@BarstoneRC thanks for the quick reply will get some off ebay we don't have Walmart I'm from the UK 🇬🇧👍
No problem bud glad I could help.
Would you put 100k diff fluid in the front diff aswel?
Yeah I use the 100K in the front and the rear end on the 6S cars in the center DIff. Some people run 50 or 60 K in the front and rear’s with 100 K in the center but I just run the same in all.
What grease and shock oil do you use??
TLR 50 weight shock oil. And it was 100k weight diff Grease.
@@BarstoneRC whatt 100k diff oil i quess thats one factor for the diff failing lol thats a lot of stress when driving and cornering XD I RUN 10k was messing with 20k and 6k lately
Bars&tone RC does the 100k diff fluid feel ok?
Yeah it feels really good! It’s a lot easier to do wheelies because you have both tires spinning instead of just one and it flips better in the air. I just got done rebuilding the clutch on this thing and it feels so much better I’m really hoping that I fixed my problem the part 2 Video will be out a little later today.
A lot of guys lock up their differentials completely with a silicone earplugs or something I don’t wanna do that I do want it to slip a little bit but not as much as it was from stock.
Make the mesh tight
Was workig until my bearing decided to poop and melted the side where the bearing seats on diff looks good still but bearing just wobbles now it was one week old diff
this is why i skipped 3-4S lol, plastic gears no thx
Good learning experience
Just run it on 3s
Yes your slipper will be too tight
I’m rebuilding a whole new one now. It was good for a bit but it died again.