Great video demo of the Vari-locks working. Most people that hate on the VL system arent familiar with how it works... there are hydraulic pumps in the diff that can only work when enough pressure is built by spinning wheels, so if you are trying to "finesse" yourself unstuck the system wont work. Keep your foot on the gas and the wheels spinning (as shown in this great video) and the tire with the most traction will get the power. only thing I don't like about this system is the service interval, I bought a fluid extractor pump so I dont have to pull the diff covers anymore. give me mechanical systems over electronically controlled systems any day. I wouldnt trade my 04 Overland for a brand new GC. thanks again for this video
just a tip / suggestion : due to its nature the varilocks needs difference in speed, that means you may be stuck but the tires are spinning quite fast, to avoid any damage, particularly with lo gear, never use the brake to "stop" the jeep, always throw the gear in Neutral so the transmission stop softly by itself. I learnt this tecnique after many years of offroading with my 2 WJs. if you keep braking it a cemetery of CV's and even TC chains
This system is sensitive to the limited slip oil used in the transfeer case, front hyd limited slip diff and aft hyd limited slip diff. If not locking enought or too much, try to play around with the oil to limited slip fluid ratio. I recomend to use Mopar.
It looks like the front left is only spinning when the torque twists the chassis enough to pull the left front corner up, which means that there isn't enough torque to move the vehicle when only one of the front wheels is on the ground. I wish there was more wight on the right rear when all of the other wheels were off the ground, though. It might have been able to move the vehicle. I have an '03 Overland. I guess I should run the same test.
Yeah, I think the wooden blocks are a bit too high, therefore I have not enough weight&traction on the grounded wheel. I'll try to reduce the height and repeat the test. Anyway, I'm afraid it needs too high rpm to lock the diff. This test shows both vari-locks work, but not as good as they should :-/
@@btxrv (3 years later ....) At the time of the test, your fromt diff was already shot. Look at the difference between 0:38 torque transfer and 2:08. Both diffs should perform the way the rear one does, which is FULL LOCK & SAME SPEED on same-axle wheels. There is a huge misconception that the Varilok only performs with wheel spin; that is only half-true. The Varilok needs wheel spin to prep-up the oil pressure, but once pressure is above the relief valve threshold then it must act like a locker. With time the clutch pack thins out and this function turns into a proportional spin (like an LSD); and once the pack thickness reduces below a certain threshold, there is no more lock-up, just occasional torque jolts (as your front differential demonstrates at 0:38). The front differential always dies first because it works in sub-optimal conditions far more than the rear (the gerotor pump partially presses-up that clutch pack each time your steering wheel is off centre). At the time of the test the rear diff was working optimally, but your front was gone. The TC was also working as intended. Unfortunately I do not know of Varilok rebuild kits so once the diffs die, your only option is to replace complete carrier (which are very rare) or upgrade to aftermarket. If you happen to know of any rebuild kits (like clutch sets etc) PLEASE do share!
It will go with only 1 wheel with grip, as long as all the mass of the vehicle is on that wheel! If you suspend it, with 80% of mass on wood pillars, logic says it will not move.
Yes, it's a 4,7 PT. I have stock exhaust, but also a cut-out installed, which have closed in 0:50 min. in the movie. It's a bit too loud and the neighbors are not too happy with it :-D
@@btxrv There is a chance it's just an optical illusion from the dirt on the tire, but I'd bet money that drivers rear axle shaft is bent. Not the housing, but the axlshaft itself. I could be wrong, it wouldn't be the first time
That is the computer controller electronic solenoids in the adaptive control system for shifting all of the gears. More info here about the system: www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/41TE.html. Its the same controller used on all Chrysler transmissions dating back to the A604. The link shows a transaxle, but the controllers are all based on the same idea, which is why you hear this sound in most all Chrysler products, FWD or RWD.
Rear differential Hi guys! Im new here...hope you can help. I have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee overland with factory tow pkg. Recently i got my rear differential replaced. Today went off roading for the first time after the rear diff swap and felt the 4wd system a little weird, meaning i was not feeling the quadradrive engaging as it should. Came home wondering if the new rear diff they installed was from another quadradrive or not. Is it possible for my wj quadradrive to eaven run if the new diff they installed was not from a quadradrive? Also how can i find out if its a quadradrive rear diff i got? Maybe a label or something stamped in the diff?
Quadra drive and vari lock sucks! Better off getting a Quadra trac or selec Trac with open diffs and sticking a true Trac in the front and a selectable full locker (arb, ox) in the back.
@@btxrv ARB in the rear isn't ridiculously expensive, and the True Trac fronts are quite cheap. I hear you on the Wrangler, but you cant fit 5 adults a 40 litre fridge and tons of camping gear in the back of a Wrangler ; ) I'm not a WJ fanboy, I have a 100 series Landcruiser, but I see the potential with a non-QD WJ especially with a good front LSD and a selectable rear locker.
The Varilok was the grand-daddy of the electronic locker that we find in modern GCs (WK, WK2 etc) and it was intended to work in very much the same way (i.e. without any driver input whatsoever). It did a great job as a locker but even though it was marketed by SPICER as service-free, its demise was due to many reasons (patent violation, mechanical deterioration, consumer reception to name a few). Once the e-diff took over none looked back. That, unfortunately, left us WJ owners with an unserviceable diff which CAN and absolutely WILL deteriorate over-time. I know of examples that still going strong 18 years after they rolled off the factory and others that have died before they ever got the chance to blow their 10-year birthday candles. Depending on the oil and FM used (or not), the type of off roading done, the kind of tyres ran, the lift etc. Based on the above, I would say that the QD mkI and the Varilok in particular didn't suck when new, but effectively was unsupported by the parent company. As a solution, I would not recommend a truetrac style of LSD for off-roading as the technology was developed for very much on-road (if not racetrack) use which means that it was never designed to operate with wheels off the ground; you can drive around this with clever footwork technique, but it is a half-measure. Selectable lockers are a solution closer to the original but come at a cost and definitely rob the vehicle off its original drive characteristic (which is to demand very little from the driver to tackle very technical terrain).
Great video demo of the Vari-locks working. Most people that hate on the VL system arent familiar with how it works... there are hydraulic pumps in the diff that can only work when enough pressure is built by spinning wheels, so if you are trying to "finesse" yourself unstuck the system wont work. Keep your foot on the gas and the wheels spinning (as shown in this great video) and the tire with the most traction will get the power. only thing I don't like about this system is the service interval, I bought a fluid extractor pump so I dont have to pull the diff covers anymore. give me mechanical systems over electronically controlled systems any day. I wouldnt trade my 04 Overland for a brand new GC. thanks again for this video
just a tip / suggestion : due to its nature the varilocks needs difference in speed, that means you may be stuck but the tires are spinning quite fast, to avoid any damage, particularly with lo gear, never use the brake to "stop" the jeep, always throw the gear in Neutral so the transmission stop softly by itself.
I learnt this tecnique after many years of offroading with my 2 WJs.
if you keep braking it a cemetery of CV's and even TC chains
This system is sensitive to the limited slip oil used in the transfeer case, front hyd limited slip diff and aft hyd limited slip diff. If not locking enought or too much, try to play around with the oil to limited slip fluid ratio. I recomend to use Mopar.
It looks like the front left is only spinning when the torque twists the chassis enough to pull the left front corner up, which means that there isn't enough torque to move the vehicle when only one of the front wheels is on the ground.
I wish there was more wight on the right rear when all of the other wheels were off the ground, though. It might have been able to move the vehicle.
I have an '03 Overland. I guess I should run the same test.
Yeah, I think the wooden blocks are a bit too high, therefore I have not enough weight&traction on the grounded wheel. I'll try to reduce the height and repeat the test.
Anyway, I'm afraid it needs too high rpm to lock the diff. This test shows both vari-locks work, but not as good as they should :-/
@@btxrv (3 years later ....) At the time of the test, your fromt diff was already shot. Look at the difference between 0:38 torque transfer and 2:08. Both diffs should perform the way the rear one does, which is FULL LOCK & SAME SPEED on same-axle wheels. There is a huge misconception that the Varilok only performs with wheel spin; that is only half-true. The Varilok needs wheel spin to prep-up the oil pressure, but once pressure is above the relief valve threshold then it must act like a locker. With time the clutch pack thins out and this function turns into a proportional spin (like an LSD); and once the pack thickness reduces below a certain threshold, there is no more lock-up, just occasional torque jolts (as your front differential demonstrates at 0:38). The front differential always dies first because it works in sub-optimal conditions far more than the rear (the gerotor pump partially presses-up that clutch pack each time your steering wheel is off centre). At the time of the test the rear diff was working optimally, but your front was gone. The TC was also working as intended. Unfortunately I do not know of Varilok rebuild kits so once the diffs die, your only option is to replace complete carrier (which are very rare) or upgrade to aftermarket. If you happen to know of any rebuild kits (like clutch sets etc) PLEASE do share!
The right "Zombieapokalypse surviving 4x4" ! No dead bodys can stop it ha ha!
When you have just 1 tyre grounding dont work because the wheel dont have weight to transfer the power right but the wheel turns
If you have one tire on the ground you messed up.
It will go with only 1 wheel with grip, as long as all the mass of the vehicle is on that wheel! If you suspend it, with 80% of mass on wood pillars, logic says it will not move.
He can decide hos much weight he would put on that wheel.
I think you forgot both front on ground.
Do you have the 4.7? Are you on stock exhaust? It sounded good in the video.
Yes, it's a 4,7 PT. I have stock exhaust, but also a cut-out installed, which have closed in 0:50 min. in the movie. It's a bit too loud and the neighbors are not too happy with it :-D
On my 02 the all time isn’t working but 4lo is..bad t-c?
Bent left rear axle shaft
more details please
@@btxrv There is a chance it's just an optical illusion from the dirt on the tire, but I'd bet money that drivers rear axle shaft is bent. Not the housing, but the axlshaft itself. I could be wrong, it wouldn't be the first time
👍👍👍👍
Does any one knows what is that sound the transmission makes when shifting gears? Mine does that same grrrr noise too when shifting...
That is the computer controller electronic solenoids in the adaptive control system for shifting all of the gears. More info here about the system: www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/41TE.html. Its the same controller used on all Chrysler transmissions dating back to the A604. The link shows a transaxle, but the controllers are all based on the same idea, which is why you hear this sound in most all Chrysler products, FWD or RWD.
Rear differential
Hi guys! Im new here...hope you can help. I have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee overland with factory tow pkg. Recently i got my rear differential replaced. Today went off roading for the first time after the rear diff swap and felt the 4wd system a little weird, meaning i was not feeling the quadradrive engaging as it should. Came home wondering if the new rear diff they installed was from another quadradrive or not. Is it possible for my wj quadradrive to eaven run if the new diff they installed was not from a quadradrive? Also how can i find out if its a quadradrive rear diff i got? Maybe a label or something stamped in the diff?
warum einfach ,wenns kompliziert auch geht ?? tztztz.
Wolltest du was konstruktives sagen? Wenn ja, dann hat es nicht geklappt :-P
Not working...
See how the ua-cam.com/video/eEA4FXiUHCA/v-deo.html
99 Quadra drive works on my Jeep
I would say, this is exactly how it should work. Congrats! 🙂
Quadra drive and vari lock sucks! Better off getting a Quadra trac or selec Trac with open diffs and sticking a true Trac in the front and a selectable full locker (arb, ox) in the back.
yes, agree, but check out the cost of an ARB or similar...
In this case I'd rather think to buy a wrangler rubicon :-p
@@btxrv ARB in the rear isn't ridiculously expensive, and the True Trac fronts are quite cheap. I hear you on the Wrangler, but you cant fit 5 adults a 40 litre fridge and tons of camping gear in the back of a Wrangler ; )
I'm not a WJ fanboy, I have a 100 series Landcruiser, but I see the potential with a non-QD WJ especially with a good front LSD and a selectable rear locker.
The Varilok was the grand-daddy of the electronic locker that we find in modern GCs (WK, WK2 etc) and it was intended to work in very much the same way (i.e. without any driver input whatsoever). It did a great job as a locker but even though it was marketed by SPICER as service-free, its demise was due to many reasons (patent violation, mechanical deterioration, consumer reception to name a few). Once the e-diff took over none looked back. That, unfortunately, left us WJ owners with an unserviceable diff which CAN and absolutely WILL deteriorate over-time. I know of examples that still going strong 18 years after they rolled off the factory and others that have died before they ever got the chance to blow their 10-year birthday candles. Depending on the oil and FM used (or not), the type of off roading done, the kind of tyres ran, the lift etc. Based on the above, I would say that the QD mkI and the Varilok in particular didn't suck when new, but effectively was unsupported by the parent company. As a solution, I would not recommend a truetrac style of LSD for off-roading as the technology was developed for very much on-road (if not racetrack) use which means that it was never designed to operate with wheels off the ground; you can drive around this with clever footwork technique, but it is a half-measure. Selectable lockers are a solution closer to the original but come at a cost and definitely rob the vehicle off its original drive characteristic (which is to demand very little from the driver to tackle very technical terrain).
It's the best stock AWD system out there. At least of the fully mechanical ones. And it's totally free :-)
@@harrisaxer2651 Mine works fine after 20 years.