I added 11.5g of weight to the back of my TM M2 driver and with no other changes I am absolutely crushing the ball now. I feel like I'm loading up more at the top of the swing , maybe even going a little further back, which seems to have really smoothed out my transition to the downswing. One thing that it clearly has done is change where I now hit the ball on the face. Before I was very inconsistent with this thing but now I hit it towards the heel almost every time. I think the extra weight is causing me to extend slightly more at impact. I started addressing the ball with the alignment marker about 1/2 ball inside and now I am hitting this thing on the screws way more than before. I am in no way a big hitter, in my 50's with about 95-100mph swing speed with a stiff shaft. I have been curious now for years as to why I hit my 3-wood about the same distance as my driver, head weight appears to be the key for me. Give it a try if you have the same issue, it's a pretty cheap test depending on your driver model.
Nearly ready to upgrade from my old TM Burner. But recently came across an article about adding lead tape for better driving performance. Added several strips to the sole, at the backend end of the club. Saw no change in my slice or launch height( I’ve struggled w a low launch for a few years). Last week I added a few additional strips to the sole on the heal & slightly adjusted my ball position more forward). WOW! Drives are launching straight, much higher and farther than ever!! Game changer!
I had a 2007 Burner which is ok ✅ decided to buy the new SIM Max driver which gave me no increase in distance maybe because the shaft is too heavy for my swing speed at 60g instead of the 50g in the 2007 Burner > I hated the flight on the SIM Max so sold it and bought a back up Burner driver which happened to be a little shorter by 2cm so I put some lead tape on the rear and near the heal and put a new grip to match my other Burner 🤗 it goes about the same distance as the original Burner with a draw and the original has a fade so I now carry 2 TM Burner drivers as options depending on the hole shape 😊
I put midsize grips on all my clubs, big hands. So the weight of the grip i usd is 58g vs the 50g odd of a standard. I put the weight back into the head via tungsten weights taped to the Hozel. I wish my driver (Callaway XR) had weight ports of a means of adding weight to the head without the stick on weights. Great videos. Thank you, I play the Maltby PTM iron and almost like them. I’m planning to try the DMB forged, as I like the idea of a slightly smaller head
Hi, I have experiment on weights on drivers since the 80th! My tips is, try lead on strips of 2 gr, ont toe and heal and neutral places. Lets say, if Y are a fade player, start stripping lead on to heal, 2 g at the time, hit 5 bolls, mor lead and so on... Same time hold hands low and lower to shortend shaft also! Soon You have find your place, what best in acc. and lenghts! For the moment i play my Call. XR Driver with two shafts. One regular and 47" lenght, and one with lady flex and 45" shaft. As a matter of fact I have longest ball on ladys shaft on some balls. PS! Dont hacksaw any shaft too soon! DS! Keep Testing, Thanks for tips// Johnny
Thanks for the tip! Placement of lead tape is always a challenge. I also like your idea of going with a shorter, more flexible driver shaft as one option.
After having swing weighted all of my Nike Pro Forged Combo irons w/R-flex graphite shafts recently to “D3,” I decided to replace my driver shaft too-I am not a strong swinger, and the Firm flex was too stiff for me. I picked it up yesterday, and intend to hit the range later today. However, the driver used to measure at about “D0”...it now measures at “C3”-gosh that feels light. Like I said, I haven’t been to the range yet, and I realize that head feel is personal, but in your opinion, is there a minimum effective swing weight for a 45-inch driver? Basically, I don’t want to waste my time trying to make the driver work for me if the head is fundamentally too light to begin with. Thanks for any help you can offer. Great video!!
I would certainly try it at that weight, but I agree, C3 is light! You could go with a lightweight grip to help bring it back up, or try some lead tape on the head. I would think getting it to at least C9 would allow you to start feeling the heft of club head.
Dave - should the driver -ideally- be the same swing weight as the irons? Or are they two completely different animals? I’m thinking the driver should feel lighter than the irons in order to generate more club head speed...but I really have no idea...I’m just researching so that I don’t drift from tried-and-true established norms...and end up playing worse golf as a result. Thanks again!
Danny, there isn't a helpful rule about swing weight in driver/woods vs irons. D0 to D3 is probably the average for both, but then preference and performance come into play. Some prefer the lighter feel in their driver. Personally, I prefer heavier SW in my driver and woods. Drivers can come in at a lower SW because of the heads and shafts are often light. This may, or may not, increase swing speed. But whatever helps you find the center of the face would be ideal! Most of us can't tell the difference between 2 SW points, so there is definitely some wiggle room here.
True on deflection,.... Another oem rigged issue, Remember our discussions about tip diameter, funny how driver , our hardest swinging club has the least diameter tip. I get they want that flection and launch, But some guys are strong swingers and need more support in that region. Try that too a test of driver tips, and compare, o so look forward to that test.
I have already added weight to my driver, I also bought a heavier/stiffer shaft and do not regret my choice. I am just watching this to clarify why this choice was correct? Heavier club feels 1000x better.
I agree, although not for everyone. But for me, I not only feel the club path better, but launch monitor numbers confirm that I am more neutral, less over the top.
@@fit2yougolf926 I agree with that, I honestly think I can feel the clubhead better when it is heavier. Which makes it easier to prevent an over the top swing.
Thanks Dave, What happened to performance when you tried the intermediate setting of slightly less head weight and 1/2” shorter shaft? If ball speed is the same for the 2 configurations tested, it would seem you are empirically providing evidence to “conservation of momentum “ principles. Are there any observations to indicate a different contact point for the two configurations? Is there a corresponding modification to the shaft that may improve flight characteristics in the lighter configuration? Thanks, Bill
Bill, thanks and interesting questions. I had identical ball speed when I cut the shaft to 44.5" and subtracted 2 grams of head weight. I lost 3 yards of carry (back to 233) due to slightly higher launch and spin. I blame me for that more than the club, and will need to do more testing. Feels great at that length and weight though! I didn't use face tape or foot spray during these tests (and the Mevo can't read face data), but I suspect I was more variable with the lighter weight, based on where I was hitting the ball and the smash factor. If I were staying with the lighter head weight I would not tip trim the shaft. I think that would improve launch a bit.
Thanks again, I enjoy your videos and comments. Since I appear to be at that point in life where it’s now a short list of people who are younger than me...it’s nice to have a practical source to help sort myth from fantasy in my golf endeavors. I’ve downloaded a copy of the MacKenzie paper and will try to digest its contents. Regards, Bill
Interesting test, thanks for the info...slightly off topic but do you have any data on progressive swing weighting in irons ( lighter in long irons and heavier in short irons ) as opposed to doing all clubs the same swing weight.... ? Thanks
Eugene, I don't have any data related to that, but I believe MOI matching might produce that result. I've never done MOI matching, so I could have that wrong!
Fit2YouGolf thanks for the reply...doing a project and thinking of going the progressive route..unfortunately I don’t have a means of measuring MOI but believe varying swingweight can produce desired effect.. 👍🏻
Eugene, that's my understanding, too. Using some adjustments to weight and length are supposed to get you pretty close to a matched set. I'd be interested in hearing about how it turns out if you go that route.
hey great video! i got a cobra speedzone xtreme driver, i cut the shaft down to 44” from 45.5” i’m down to about c5 swing weight. since there’s a removable weight at the way back of the driver, how do you think the driver or the ball flight would be if i got a weight heavy enough to get the swing weight back to around D0 or D1.
I think if the weight helps you hit the center of the face better (because you can feel the head better in your swing) then you might see a gain based on increasing the smash factor. Worth a try!
I have a Ladies Cobra Speedzone Xtreme and changed my weight from 4 grams to 8 grams and adjusted the loft from standard 12.5 down to 11 because off the tee the ball flight was way too high only getting 125-150 yards. Will have to see if that helps.
I hit my 3w and 5w great. I really feel the head weight and it helps me. However my driver is lighter head and I’m all over the place with driving accuracy. Should I add weight to driver head to get same feel and consistency as my fairway woods?
It's worth a try and easy to do with some lead tape along the bottom and the back. Of course you could demo a heavier club, too. Maltby driver heads are great for the that as they tend to 200 grams with the option of adding weight. Pings tend to run heavier as well in my experience.
I can definitely understand that result. For many, the club you can swing the fastest has the potential to transfer more energy to the ball. When looking at where the ball contacts the face for me (which is somewhat inconsistent), I surmise that the added weight positioned farther back in the head boosted smash factor on off center hits. I can also say from fitting experience there is some variability in terms of performance and head weight (and other characteristics of the DNA of the club head). Getting fit or at least trying some different options is always my recommendation.
@@fit2yougolf926 had a look at Tiworks last night. Interesting concept. Ultra light titanium head, 55 gram shaft,light grip and you make it up bye tending your driver up to 48”. Reasonable price but don’t think I can drop $300 Cdn untried, untested. Can’t find any third party reviews. Good Luck.
@@seanpeacock5595 The Tiworks are interesting. I like the weight adjustability. I saw one reviewer who compared it directly to XXIO, which seems to have the lion's share of the lightweight driver marker.
I changed my driver to an M2 from a basic old hippo the m2 is so light in comparison and I’m getting 20 yds less distance at least. If the m2 were heavier surely this would add more force to the head at impact ? Like using a kids plastic toy hammer versus a heavier metal carpenter s hammer, weight must have a major say in the outcome. Imagine swinging a ping pong ball on a piece of string versus a golf ball it ll take more effort / power to swing that lighter ball. I’m new to golf so it’s only my personal view.
Paul, that is my theory as well. I find that there is a balance for every golfer depending on strength, speed, path, etc. Also I find that shaft weight and flex need to match head weight for the golfer. If I'm not mistaken, Taylormade heads are among the lightest on the market. Ping and Mizuno are on the heavier end of the spectrum.
Paul, the 2016 M2 driver only has a 0.5g weight all the way back in the sole. You can get OEM weights(I understand RBZ weights also fit) online. I brought mine up to 8g and I could really feel the difference. Now I can feel where the clubhead is and my contact is much more consistent and I'm definitely hitting it a little higher and further with the same hosel settings.
I have TaylorMade Burner 3.0 driver. it's light as hell and no matter how hard I swing it, I can't get over 270 yds. If I use my old golden bear driver which has a heavier head.. I hit 300+ . TaylorMade Burner 3.0 driver is so light, I feel air resistance. I wish I never bought that junk.
Hi Dave I have a Titleist 917 D3 driver with the standard 8 gram weight in the back it's a 70g Diamana stiff flex shaft but I hit the ball way too high off the tee and I'm losing a ton of distance do you recommend going to a heavier weight in the back of the club head to bring the flight and the spin down? I have it set on D1, any help would be much appreciated thanks.
Coach, it's difficult to say without knowing more about your swing, but in general more weight toward the back of the club lowers the CG and promotes an even higher launch. But let me ask some questions, the answers to which should help me give you some direction. Where on the face are you hitting the ball typically? What are your launch and spin #'s? Do you know your angle of attack? Knowing all or some of those answers would be great!
@@fit2yougolf926 ......On the face usually in the center (I hit a lot of fairways). Not sure of launch but the spin number are usually in the 4000's and my angle of attack is somewhat upward.
@@pd9971 , that is certainly a lot of spin, which could be a swing issue (e.g., adding loft), or simply the wrong head design for you. You could work to address your delivery of course (which I encourage, but I'm not a swing coach so I won't offer unqualified advice about that!), but from an equipment standpoint you might try some of the low spin driver options, and perhaps a different shaft to address that spin/high ball flight issue. The PING and Callaway low spin options are worth considering. You'll get more impact from changing to a lower spinning head than just a shaft replacement, but the two together might help quite a bit.
I'd like to see another driver experiment, ... Wanna see you build a 46" driver. True, people say the longer the driver, harder to control, but we all know length is distance, I.e. the reason the pga limits drivers to 50". You came up d7 with weight, hmmm , what if you got d7 with length, and proper flex Oems making 47" drivers with horrible flex, bend, and kick profile shafts, .. off the rack is a rigged component, for and man still with heff in his swing. Come on Dave build that 265+ carry driver, that will get you to 300.
@@fit2yougolf926 ... Yes... Why, because of this factor. I was playing with a guy had a avg tempo easy swing dynamic, and he was blowing by me with ease. He had a ping g400, looked kinda of the rackish. So I concluded, what it was is set up, I had a 43.5 driver semi stiff but still couldn't handle my load and I stayed activating the bend and distortion profile. So I'd have some grand looking drives that really didn't go to far. Yet this guy had a 85mph swing and just carrying 260, getting out 285 easy. That's when I realized later, like you mentioned, ping is one of the few oems that use larger tip diameter for its drivers, and true, ping and titliest had the largest off the shelf diameter. So I concluded, the kid smooth undisturbed bend and distortion profile action plus the length is why he could just fly right on by me. Funny, when I asked him to really rip one, he sliced it out of bounds. But when he used his easy old man tempo, he hit that driver pga. He actually had the right tool in his hands off the rack. Lucky.
Great video, I learned a lot. Thank you! I bought a driver used with a stock 45.5" shaft, weighing in at D4. I play a 44" shaft, so I cut it down to that. It now weighs D0, which I thought was strange. It's a Rogue SZ that has weight ports in the front and back only and this will be my 1st hot melt project. Any tips on where to put those 12g of hot melt to have a minimal effect on ball flight? I like the ball flight and spin #s I'm getting now, it's just too light imo. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks Marc. If you are trying to get back to D4, you could look for heavier weights for your driver. But I get it, 8 grams is a lot and weights may not be available. I'm not an expert in hot melt, but low and back might be the best location. Let us know the results!
Nicely done and to the point. Zero filler, the way all information should be done . Please do more of these videos .
I added 11.5g of weight to the back of my TM M2 driver and with no other changes I am absolutely crushing the ball now. I feel like I'm loading up more at the top of the swing , maybe even going a little further back, which seems to have really smoothed out my transition to the downswing. One thing that it clearly has done is change where I now hit the ball on the face. Before I was very inconsistent with this thing but now I hit it towards the heel almost every time. I think the extra weight is causing me to extend slightly more at impact. I started addressing the ball with the alignment marker about 1/2 ball inside and now I am hitting this thing on the screws way more than before. I am in no way a big hitter, in my 50's with about 95-100mph swing speed with a stiff shaft. I have been curious now for years as to why I hit my 3-wood about the same distance as my driver, head weight appears to be the key for me. Give it a try if you have the same issue, it's a pretty cheap test depending on your driver model.
Nearly ready to upgrade from my old TM Burner. But recently came across an article about adding lead tape for better driving performance. Added several strips to the sole, at the backend end of the club. Saw no change in my slice or launch height( I’ve struggled w a low launch for a few years). Last week I added a few additional strips to the sole on the heal & slightly adjusted my ball position more forward). WOW! Drives are launching straight, much higher and farther than ever!! Game changer!
I had a 2007 Burner which is ok ✅ decided to buy the new SIM Max driver which gave me no increase in distance maybe because the shaft is too heavy for my swing speed at 60g instead of the 50g in the 2007 Burner > I hated the flight on the SIM Max so sold it and bought a back up Burner driver which happened to be a little shorter by 2cm so I put some lead tape on the rear and near the heal and put a new grip to match my other Burner 🤗 it goes about the same distance as the original Burner with a draw and the original has a fade so I now carry 2 TM Burner drivers as options depending on the hole shape 😊
I put midsize grips on all my clubs, big hands. So the weight of the grip i usd is 58g vs the 50g odd of a standard. I put the weight back into the head via tungsten weights taped to the Hozel. I wish my driver (Callaway XR) had weight ports of a means of adding weight to the head without the stick on weights. Great videos. Thank you, I play the Maltby PTM iron and almost like them. I’m planning to try the DMB forged, as I like the idea of a slightly smaller head
Thanks Greg. I predict that you will love the DBMs compared to the PTM!
This was very helpful. Thank you for making this vid.
Hi, I have experiment on weights on drivers since the 80th!
My tips is, try lead on strips of 2 gr, ont toe and heal and neutral places. Lets say, if Y are a fade player, start stripping lead on to heal, 2 g at the time, hit 5 bolls, mor lead and so on...
Same time hold hands low and lower to shortend shaft also!
Soon You have find your place, what best in acc. and lenghts!
For the moment i play my Call. XR Driver with two shafts. One regular and 47" lenght, and one with lady flex and 45" shaft.
As a matter of fact I have longest ball on ladys shaft on some balls.
PS! Dont hacksaw any shaft too soon! DS!
Keep Testing, Thanks for tips// Johnny
Thanks for the tip! Placement of lead tape is always a challenge. I also like your idea of going with a shorter, more flexible driver shaft as one option.
After having swing weighted all of my Nike Pro Forged Combo irons w/R-flex graphite shafts recently to “D3,” I decided to replace my driver shaft too-I am not a strong swinger, and the Firm flex was too stiff for me. I picked it up yesterday, and intend to hit the range later today. However, the driver used to measure at about “D0”...it now measures at “C3”-gosh that feels light. Like I said, I haven’t been to the range yet, and I realize that head feel is personal, but in your opinion, is there a minimum effective swing weight for a 45-inch driver? Basically, I don’t want to waste my time trying to make the driver work for me if the head is fundamentally too light to begin with. Thanks for any help you can offer. Great video!!
I would certainly try it at that weight, but I agree, C3 is light! You could go with a lightweight grip to help bring it back up, or try some lead tape on the head. I would think getting it to at least C9 would allow you to start feeling the heft of club head.
Dave - should the driver -ideally- be the same swing weight as the irons? Or are they two completely different animals? I’m thinking the driver should feel lighter than the irons in order to generate more club head speed...but I really have no idea...I’m just researching so that I don’t drift from tried-and-true established norms...and end up playing worse golf as a result. Thanks again!
Danny, there isn't a helpful rule about swing weight in driver/woods vs irons. D0 to D3 is probably the average for both, but then preference and performance come into play. Some prefer the lighter feel in their driver. Personally, I prefer heavier SW in my driver and woods.
Drivers can come in at a lower SW because of the heads and shafts are often light. This may, or may not, increase swing speed. But whatever helps you find the center of the face would be ideal!
Most of us can't tell the difference between 2 SW points, so there is definitely some wiggle room here.
True on deflection,.... Another oem rigged issue, Remember our discussions about tip diameter, funny how driver , our hardest swinging club has the least diameter tip.
I get they want that flection and launch, But some guys are strong swingers and need more support in that region.
Try that too a test of driver tips, and compare, o so look forward to that test.
I have already added weight to my driver, I also bought a heavier/stiffer shaft and do not regret my choice. I am just watching this to clarify why this choice was correct? Heavier club feels 1000x better.
I agree, although not for everyone. But for me, I not only feel the club path better, but launch monitor numbers confirm that I am more neutral, less over the top.
@@fit2yougolf926 I agree with that, I honestly think I can feel the clubhead better when it is heavier. Which makes it easier to prevent an over the top swing.
Thanks Dave,
What happened to performance when you tried the intermediate setting of slightly less head weight and 1/2” shorter shaft?
If ball speed is the same for the 2 configurations tested, it would seem you are empirically providing evidence to “conservation of momentum “ principles.
Are there any observations to indicate a different contact point for the two configurations?
Is there a corresponding modification to the shaft that may improve flight characteristics in the lighter configuration?
Thanks,
Bill
Bill, thanks and interesting questions. I had identical ball speed when I cut the shaft to 44.5" and subtracted 2 grams of head weight. I lost 3 yards of carry (back to 233) due to slightly higher launch and spin. I blame me for that more than the club, and will need to do more testing. Feels great at that length and weight though!
I didn't use face tape or foot spray during these tests (and the Mevo can't read face data), but I suspect I was more variable with the lighter weight, based on where I was hitting the ball and the smash factor.
If I were staying with the lighter head weight I would not tip trim the shaft. I think that would improve launch a bit.
Thanks again,
I enjoy your videos and comments.
Since I appear to be at that point in life where it’s now a short list of people who are younger than me...it’s nice to have a practical source to help sort myth from fantasy in my golf endeavors.
I’ve downloaded a copy of the MacKenzie paper and will try to digest its contents.
Regards,
Bill
I agree on your observation.
Interesting test, thanks for the info...slightly off topic but do you have any data on progressive swing weighting in irons ( lighter in long irons and heavier in short irons ) as opposed to doing all clubs the same swing weight.... ? Thanks
Eugene, I don't have any data related to that, but I believe MOI matching might produce that result. I've never done MOI matching, so I could have that wrong!
Fit2YouGolf thanks for the reply...doing a project and thinking of going the progressive route..unfortunately I don’t have a means of measuring MOI but believe varying swingweight can produce desired effect.. 👍🏻
Eugene, that's my understanding, too. Using some adjustments to weight and length are supposed to get you pretty close to a matched set. I'd be interested in hearing about how it turns out if you go that route.
hey great video! i got a cobra speedzone xtreme driver, i cut the shaft down to 44” from 45.5” i’m down to about c5 swing weight. since there’s a removable weight at the way back of the driver, how do you think the driver or the ball flight would be if i got a weight heavy enough to get the swing weight back to around D0 or D1.
I think if the weight helps you hit the center of the face better (because you can feel the head better in your swing) then you might see a gain based on increasing the smash factor. Worth a try!
I have a Ladies Cobra Speedzone Xtreme and changed my weight from 4 grams to 8 grams and adjusted the loft from standard 12.5 down to 11 because off the tee the ball flight was way too high only getting 125-150 yards. Will have to see if that helps.
I hit my 3w and 5w great. I really feel the head weight and it helps me. However my driver is lighter head and I’m all over the place with driving accuracy. Should I add weight to driver head to get same feel and consistency as my fairway woods?
It's worth a try and easy to do with some lead tape along the bottom and the back. Of course you could demo a heavier club, too. Maltby driver heads are great for the that as they tend to 200 grams with the option of adding weight. Pings tend to run heavier as well in my experience.
I went and looked this study up. The longest was the lightest club head.
I can definitely understand that result. For many, the club you can swing the fastest has the potential to transfer more energy to the ball. When looking at where the ball contacts the face for me (which is somewhat inconsistent), I surmise that the added weight positioned farther back in the head boosted smash factor on off center hits. I can also say from fitting experience there is some variability in terms of performance and head weight (and other characteristics of the DNA of the club head). Getting fit or at least trying some different options is always my recommendation.
@@fit2yougolf926 had a look at Tiworks last night. Interesting concept. Ultra light titanium head, 55 gram shaft,light grip and you make it up bye tending your driver up to 48”.
Reasonable price but don’t think I can drop $300 Cdn untried, untested. Can’t find any third party reviews. Good Luck.
@@seanpeacock5595 The Tiworks are interesting. I like the weight adjustability. I saw one reviewer who compared it directly to XXIO, which seems to have the lion's share of the lightweight driver marker.
I changed my driver to an M2 from a basic old hippo the m2 is so light in comparison and I’m getting 20 yds less distance at least. If the m2 were heavier surely this would add more force to the head at impact ? Like using a kids plastic toy hammer versus a heavier metal carpenter s hammer, weight must have a major say in the outcome. Imagine swinging a ping pong ball on a piece of string versus a golf ball it ll take more effort / power to swing that lighter ball. I’m new to golf so it’s only my personal view.
Paul, that is my theory as well. I find that there is a balance for every golfer depending on strength, speed, path, etc. Also I find that shaft weight and flex need to match head weight for the golfer.
If I'm not mistaken, Taylormade heads are among the lightest on the market. Ping and Mizuno are on the heavier end of the spectrum.
Paul, the 2016 M2 driver only has a 0.5g weight all the way back in the sole. You can get OEM weights(I understand RBZ weights also fit) online. I brought mine up to 8g and I could really feel the difference. Now I can feel where the clubhead is and my contact is much more consistent and I'm definitely hitting it a little higher and further with the same hosel settings.
I have TaylorMade Burner 3.0 driver. it's light as hell and no matter how hard I swing it, I can't get over 270 yds. If I use my old golden bear driver which has a heavier head.. I hit 300+ .
TaylorMade Burner 3.0 driver is so light, I feel air resistance. I wish I never bought that junk.
Fortunately Taylormade had gone heavier in their recent drivers. Thanks for sharing your results.
Hi Dave I have a Titleist 917 D3 driver with the standard 8 gram weight in the back it's a 70g Diamana stiff flex shaft but I hit the ball way too high off the tee and I'm losing a ton of distance do you recommend going to a heavier weight in the back of the club head to bring the flight and the spin down? I have it set on D1, any help would be much appreciated thanks.
Coach, it's difficult to say without knowing more about your swing, but in general more weight toward the back of the club lowers the CG and promotes an even higher launch. But let me ask some questions, the answers to which should help me give you some direction. Where on the face are you hitting the ball typically? What are your launch and spin #'s? Do you know your angle of attack? Knowing all or some of those answers would be great!
@@fit2yougolf926 ......On the face usually in the center (I hit a lot of fairways). Not sure of launch but the spin number are usually in the 4000's and my angle of attack is somewhat upward.
@@pd9971 , that is certainly a lot of spin, which could be a swing issue (e.g., adding loft), or simply the wrong head design for you. You could work to address your delivery of course (which I encourage, but I'm not a swing coach so I won't offer unqualified advice about that!), but from an equipment standpoint you might try some of the low spin driver options, and perhaps a different shaft to address that spin/high ball flight issue. The PING and Callaway low spin options are worth considering. You'll get more impact from changing to a lower spinning head than just a shaft replacement, but the two together might help quite a bit.
@@fit2yougolf926 ....sounds good thanks
I'd like to see another driver experiment, ... Wanna see you build a 46" driver.
True, people say the longer the driver, harder to control, but we all know length is distance, I.e. the reason the pga limits drivers to 50".
You came up d7 with weight, hmmm , what if you got d7 with length, and proper flex
Oems making 47" drivers with horrible flex, bend, and kick profile shafts, .. off the rack is a rigged component, for and man still with heff in his swing.
Come on Dave build that 265+ carry driver, that will get you to 300.
Maybe I will, king! It would be an interesting test...
@@fit2yougolf926 ... Yes... Why, because of this factor.
I was playing with a guy had a avg tempo easy swing dynamic, and he was blowing by me with ease.
He had a ping g400, looked kinda of the rackish.
So I concluded, what it was is set up, I had a 43.5 driver semi stiff but still couldn't handle my load and I stayed activating the bend and distortion profile.
So I'd have some grand looking drives that really didn't go to far.
Yet this guy had a 85mph swing and just carrying 260, getting out 285 easy.
That's when I realized later, like you mentioned, ping is one of the few oems that use larger tip diameter for its drivers, and true, ping and titliest had the largest off the shelf diameter.
So I concluded, the kid smooth undisturbed bend and distortion profile action plus the length is why he could just fly right on by me.
Funny, when I asked him to really rip one, he sliced it out of bounds.
But when he used his easy old man tempo, he hit that driver pga.
He actually had the right tool in his hands off the rack. Lucky.
Limits lengts on a golfclub is 48", pal!
Thx
Great video, I learned a lot. Thank you!
I bought a driver used with a stock 45.5" shaft, weighing in at D4. I play a 44" shaft, so I cut it down to that. It now weighs D0, which I thought was strange. It's a Rogue SZ that has weight ports in the front and back only and this will be my 1st hot melt project.
Any tips on where to put those 12g of hot melt to have a minimal effect on ball flight? I like the ball flight and spin #s I'm getting now, it's just too light imo. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks Marc. If you are trying to get back to D4, you could look for heavier weights for your driver. But I get it, 8 grams is a lot and weights may not be available. I'm not an expert in hot melt, but low and back might be the best location.
Let us know the results!
👍👍