As much as I love your delivery I have to be the naysayer to this method. I've been a cyclist for thirty years and I was a professional bike mechanic for eleven of those years. I am now a professional machinist, so I feel exceptionally qualified to make an observation here. The place where you most want the lube to penetrate the chain is between the plates on the edges of each link. Putting lube only in the middle of the chain does nothing to minimize the friction where those plates meet. Your method is almost perfect, you just need to place one drop on either side of the chain where the plates rub together, not in the center of the chain. If you lube the edges of the chain lube will still get into the roller. The roller of the chain only takes a static load when the chainring or cog engages, but the side plates are in a constant state of flexing back and forth. Of course you still need to wipe the chain after lubing to insure minimal buildup of contamination.
I had one of the first Dawes MTBs back in the 80s. The manufacturer's advice in their instruction sheet was to lube the chain as Kev has shown. I know that there are different views but I would expect Dawes, who had been in the business for many decades before then, to know their stuff. However in those days, the sophisticated lubes we now have were not available and I think that they expected the "oil" to work its way from the rollers into the side plates. So I think nowadays, it is a question of how spreadable the lube is. Having followed this method for decades now, it seem to work well. My last chain lasted 4500k and it was not even skipping.
@@nigelduckworth4419 If you think about this from an engineering perspective the most friction occurs between the plates where they rub back and forth. Lube creates a surfactant effect that holds on to the grit and grime that happens when the metal starts to wear away. The roller in the center of the chain is actually held in place once it is engaged in the sprockets of the drivetrain so it actually has negligible friction wear. While you may have had your chain for 4500k I'm willing to bet that chain wasn't passing through a twelve speed drivetrain. Modern bikes have tight tolerances that require more precise and more frequent lubrication.
@@nigelduckworth4419 4500k is certainly significant. I'm willing to bet however that your chain was either a single speed or 7 speed chain. These days the chain in an 11 or 12 speed sti system relies on a very tight tolerance for performance. Wear is not the issue in modern chains, friction and articulation are much more important. The best way to insure full performance is to get lube in between those plates. Unfortunately the days of 4500k chains are over but we got superb shifting performance in exchange, so I call that a net gain.
No offence regarding your qualification, but it is you who is mistaken. By far the most friction occurs within the rollers. It's easy - just think about where most pressure between links is applied. That is the location where the most relevant friction is being generated. (just checkout ZFC) The video producer on the other hand does his biggest mistake in the very beginning - the lube choice (even by for oil based lubricants).
Yes you do sound qualified enough. I am a mechanical engineer and I have been a competitive cyclist for a bit over 60 years (and still doing it) - so I suppose it all depends on your training, experiences and dedication.
I let my wax based dry lube sit for a least a few hours (usually overnight) before wiping and riding so the carrier penetrates and then evaporates. The chain is dry and doesn't attract near as much dirt.
@@digerati808 that also helps transfer lube to rollers you missed (and coat round the rollers) allowing further penetration from more angles... good stuf.
The solvent carries the lube into the nether regions of the chain almost instantly. If you then wipe off as much as you can right away, you take more dirt and gunk off with it and there’s less stuff remaining to dry off. Don’t worry - there will be enough lube remaining where you need it, and very little where you don’t.
@@trackie1957 👆👆We need more of this. This is the technical talk that's hard to find. There's only one BEST way to lube your chain for dry dirt riding, so I'm always looking for more input. I've been torn between the two methods, wiping right away to pull more gunk of the drivetrain or simply leave it on to penetrate longer. I've been wiping first, apply lube to sit overnight, then wipe before a ride, but have wondered if your method is better. For a while I did your method for a good cleaning and then apply another round of lube for penetration. Over time that seemed to be overkill. My thoughts on some of these newer wax-based dry lubes is that they're more viscous and take way longer to penetrate than an oil-based wet lube. That being said, I've leaned more towards allowing more time for penetration. Have you noticed your drivetrain is cleaner and you get the same amount of dry dirt miles between lubes?
I do almost the exact same routine, but put my bike upside-down. For me, it's easier to do all the wiping and lubing that way.. Putting the bike in a workstand makes it a lot easier....no bending over for all the tasks involved. I do your routine after every bike ride. Always get at least 5,000 mi/ chain, and cassettes and chainrings last longer. Also, another tip...every 500-700 mi I use a chain scrubber and solvent to deep clean the chain, let dry & then lube. To clean the cassette after every ride, I use a dry scrub brush, put the chain on the smallest cog, and scrub off all that surface dirt & grime on the cogs so it doesn't re-contaminate the freshly lubed and clean chain. Really nice video, well-done! Simple & to the point. Kudos!
be careful putting the bike upside down - I've always done it with no issues but got bitten recently. direct quote from Shimano - • When turning the bicycle upside down or on its side, the brake system may have some air bubbles inside the reservoir tank which are still there when the bleed screw is closed, or which accumulate in various parts of the brake system when it is used for long periods. This disc brake system is not designed to work with the bicycle upside down. If the bicycle is turned upside down or on its side, the air bubbles inside the reservoir tank may move in the direction of the calipers. If the bicycle is ridden in this condition, there is danger that the brakes may not operate and a serious accident may occur. If the bicycle has been turned upside down or on its side, be sure to operate the brake lever a few times to check that the brakes operate normally before riding the bicycle. If the brakes do not operate normally, adjust them according to the following procedure.
@@im-on-youtube in practice, this isn't really an issue. You can flick the brake levers a bunch of times and this usually brings any air bubbles back up to the top.
Great video and perfectly explained that the oil only needs to be inside the gap from the rollers and then can be wiped off from the rest of the chain, many videos and people dont explain that process like you did. Good job.
I had to give up on Muc-Off's lube. That residue it leaves behind on the cassette is incredible and super hard to get off! Even with degreaser, the dark coating it leaves behind won't come off. I went back to using Redline and all is well.
2 stroke motor oil works the best for me. It seeps to the inside of the roller very easily. I apply it once a week on my commuter after meticulous cleaning with dish washing soap and a toothbrush.. The chain last for about a year with very minor stretch.
Perfect! I do the same with my bike upside down. But I give the chain a good cleanup as well by spinning the crank and squeezing the chain in the rag. As a finishing touch, I spray the rag with Armour All, then polish the chain up with it.
This is a great way to lube your chain and how I used to do it. I gave up on liquid lubes and switched to hot waxing. It's certainly worth investigation. It takes some prep, but lasts hundreds of miles, greatly reduces drivetrain wear and noise and the chain stays so clean you can rub your hand on it and it comes away clean.
@@KevDoes Hot wax works, but you can get equivalent results without all the extra work by using a modern wax based lube. The wax is dissolved in a solvent that evaporates, leaving a dry wax coating behind. You'll also find that generously flooding the chain with this kind of lube, then wiping it off leaves all the surfaces cleaner, and each time you do it, more of the shmutz left over from whatever lube or factory new chain grease has collected comes off. Not absolutely necessary, but definitely a good thing to do is to wait at least a couple of hours after applying before riding so all the solvent evaporates and the wax hardens fully. I get doing the drop by drop method, but that technique is an artifact of using lubes that don't solidify or completely dry out. Any excess from the wax based stuff just flakes off as you ride and takes the dirt with it.
@@jm-um1txI agree with you 1000% rock and roll gold is my lube of choice. I do it every ride takes 2 minutes and my chain looks as good as a hot wax chain.
I take my chain off every two weeks. I use a KMC chain link. I wash it in kerosene, wash it in hot soapy water, rinse and swing the chain around to get rid of the water (like a centrifuge). Then I coil my chain and put it in a saucepan full of 10w30 engine oil and heat it up on a camper stove, until just before it boils. This gets the oil into the bearings. I hang the chain and l let it cool down. While that’s happening I clean the chain rings and the cluster. After about 15 minutes, I wipe the whole chain down to get the oil from the outside of the chain. I put the chain back on going in the opposite direction to balance the stretch and wear. The chain does not gather dirt, stays clean and just lasts longer. Old school maintenance, but I rarely have chain issues and I get couple of seasons out of a chain. It’s worth the effort.
Instead of Kero, Wash it with brake clean. 10w30 doesn't stick (it's primarily for internal gearboxes so it can be collected as it flings off)... You could get some chain lube for chainsaws which is cheap and has a 'sticky' additive... better yet, buy a can of motorbike chain lube and you can do the whole lot on the bike without removing it.. Brake clean to clean off the hub, gears and chain, then chain lube on the chain... There was a product ,,, Duckhams chainguard that does what you do... but leaves a sticky wax/grease rather than an oil that will flow away... and heating it on the stove gets it into the pins on the chain.
That’s a lot of work, but if you get satisfaction from it, rock on! I used to do the same thing using melted wax as the lube, back in the 70 - 80’s. I get as good results now with my mineral spirits/ gear oil mixture, brush on, wipe off. BTW, there’s no such thing as chain stretch. It the accumulated wear of all the pins that lengthens it. Turning the chain around does reduce that and extends its life.
Great video 👍🏿, I do the same. The only thing I do different is I lube the night prior to my ride and let the lube sit on the chain. I then wipe the chain prior to my ride 🙂. I'm sure either works tho, just my two cents.
A big THANK You for this video, I absolutely agree and do it the same way. I keep watching the "dream build" videos, people spend half a day, maybe more building beautiful bikes and filming it, and at the end they can't spend extra 3 minutes to lube the chain properly. Instead they just spin the cranks and drown the chain in oil..
Good video. I put ancient Pedro's Syn Lube in a sewing machine oiling pen, which puts a minuscule drop on the chain links. 1980 Gios Torino Super Record with the first generation Campagnolo Athena group. 42-53 chainring, 14-16-17-18-19-20 freewheel. Back from when bicycles actually looked like bicycles.
Great video. One other comment I might suggest is to flip your rag over more often I'm constantly moving my rag around. And it's not a bad idea to have gloves on for this operation.
This is exactly what I’ve done for decades. As a last step I wipe excess wetness off the jockey wheels and chainrings. A wire brush can sometimes help dislodge dried bits of dirt from the chain and cassette. No need to be obsessive, just consistent!
The only thing I would add is to let the chain lube soak in for a few minutes, maybe three, before wiping off the excess. That gives the lube time to soak in. BTW, the chain lube that Kev usedMucOff Dry Lube, came in best of a comparison of several lubes. Use dry lube unless you,live in a rainy area. Wet lube creates more mess.
I also have a few things to add. - 1 - first check the chain for chain stretch using a simple go/no go chain stretch tool. If it's still good, - 2 - after applying the lube, SLOWLY rotate the pedals about 20 times to make sure the lube starts soaking in to the inside of the chain rollers. Then let it stand overnight which positively gets the inner workings of the chain soaked with the lube. - 3 - The next day, wipe it off any remaining external residual as demonstrated in the video. - 4 - As for frequency, I use the trip meter on my bike computer to record approximately 300 miles before re-lubing. Keeping fresh, clean lube on the chain helps to get the maxinum use out of your chain. @@KevDoes
This is a technique that I used in bikes shops when I was a mechanic. One thing that I would add is to let the lube soak in for a few minutes then wipe it down. This allows the lube more time to get deep into the link where it is needed.
Oh, that’s much more work than necessary! First of all, I use a 5:1 mixture of mineral spirits to 90W gear oil. It does a great job of cleaning the chain and lubricating. I apply it with a small brush. If you want to use expensive chain lube, fine, but you might have to use a separate cleaner. Second, shift your bike to the highest gear in the back. That helps keep any spatter off the tire. Find the master link, brush some lube on the chain, and when you have gotten to the whole chain, back pedal a few times and wipe it off. Do your reasonable best to get it all off and you are done.
I tried Your recipe. I think 5-1 is too big a dilution. After some 80km of riding I have a feeling that my chain runs dry and becomes noisy. I'm trying 3-1 now. Anyway. Your method is fast, simple and seems to be better than other methods ( simple bike lubes, liquid waxes -Squirt, parafin , etc)-tried them all. Maybe I'm overdoing it- additionaly I use old toothbrush to better clean old gunk and more stubborn stuff.
I switched to hot waxing for my dry/dusty trails. I never got good results with muc off. Even letting it sit for a week or so to air dry never really worked... still managed to create gray/black grinding paste after just 15-20 miles.
nothing new here - but nearly correct. I go with cframes and i use a small brush instead of just dripping the fluid. And i use a special self-made lubricant out of wax, dry-lube (MoS2) and some Diesel or heating oil as solvent to make it more fluent.
It's nice to do it properly this way, but actually, the old spinning of the chain method makes it so there a no big drops forming which allows very light application. You just have to lay the tip directly onto the rollers and match the speed at which the oil comes out. If the chain still feels dry, do another rotation. Saves time and wiping the excess too if you dont get hung up when turning the crank ;) Ps any dry spots will get covered by the cogs spreading it on different links by each rotation. Doing drops on the latches themselves is better, but putting more does the job just as well with a good creeping chain fluid and if not, follow up with an old dry toothbrush. Nice cassette :))
I recommend applying the oil from the top only, because the outside of the chain only touches the top pulley when it goes around the sprockets - the inside of the chain touches three sprockets so theoretically deposits three times as much oil in unwanted places
Cleaning the side links and rollers: You have the correct method of holding the chain with a rag. Only, make it simple on yourself, just oil up part of the rag first, so when griping the chain you apply a layer of anti-rust to your entire chain, the oil\ rag will also cleans as it lubes. Then spin away, takes 30 seconds. You are correct, the roller to sprocket rubbing is where the wear occurs; side links just seize up if not oiled.
Touch tip to top of chain. Spin chain backwards while gently squeezing out lube. Lube ends up in exact same place as going link by link. Use Squirt and don't bother cleaning it off - it turns to wax and the dirty parts flake off anyway. Don't bother cleaning cassette, chain, or chainrings. Bad stuff flakes off and you are just replacing bad with good. Any more effort, you could be out riding.
También puedes poner la cadena en el pinion más grande y corona más grande para que al lubricar, se abran los eslabones para aceptar mejor el aceite en el interior de los eslabones. Saludos.
It takes no more time to mix the lube than it does to add sugar to your latte. Then using a small brush puts the stuff on the chain instead of the floor or your tires. Everything else is pretty much equal. The job of cleaning and lubing your chain should be quick, cheap, simple and effective. In 62 years of riding and maintaining bikes, I’ve tried a lot of chain maintenance things. This one works best for me, and I’ve been doing it for about 15 years. Do whatever you want, I’m just suggesting.
Instead of searching for the master link as a starting point something I've always done is clean and mark one link with a drop of nail polish which won't wipe off and is much easier to spot.
I don't like that Muc off either like somebody else has commented. I use warm water a brush and rags and Dawn dish soap to thoroughly clean my derailer and chain and chain rings. Just wiping things down with a rag does not thoroughly clean all of the fine grit out of your chain. Then I dry it off and leave it alone for a while and let it completely dry. Then I use wolf tooth WT1. I have tried so many different types of lubes and this one is the best. Hot wax is old school and is very low on the abrasion resistance scale. There is some absolute nerd out there that does videos on different types of chain lube with an abrasion resistance machine. That's how I got sold on Wolftooth. It also keeps my drivetrain more quiet than anything else I have tried.
@@makantahi3731 that might be your opinion, but a real world test that measures abrasive resistance shows that wax is far worse than high-quality chain lube. Might be OK if you ride a road bike in dry weather. Otherwise it is bottom of the scale.
@@KevDoes i'll see if I can find the link. There is some guy that has this machine that is able to measure abrasion against two pieces of metal and he can measure the wear down to a micron. He then applies lubricant and runs it for a given period of time. He tests that up against multiple chain lube's and wax. It's super interesting. Chain lube is a very personal thing however! 😂
Remove the chain, place into an Ultra Sonic Cleaner with degreaser and water and zap it for 20 mins. When that has done its job rinse the chain off in cold water thoroughly. Then place the chain on a metal grill and blast with a 2000 watt fan heater for about 30-60 seconds then let cool down. Once cooled down place chain into a plastic food takeaway box sidewards down then pop a small amount of lube onto every pin, not too much and squirt a bit around the chain. Then place the lid on and pop the box into a pre heated pan of hot water, bring to a simmer and heat up. remove the box open up and turn the chain the other way around and repeat process once again. Once you have done that let the chain cool down. At this point I advice you to remove the cassette and clean and re-install the cassette then wipe the chain down and re-install the chain. That's how it is done properly, I hope that helps you for the future. Peace
I have a controversial approach that works well for me. I don't use lube. I always rub my chain down with a cloth soaked with GT85 spray after in wash it. I've found that works really well for the next ride. I like the technique in your video though and may well give it a try. It's definitely better to take a less is more approach
For starters, grab the rag around the chain where it exits the derailleur with your left hand (little finger toward the back) and you can backpedal with your right hand and not have to keep moving your arm away from the cranks. 2nd... the BEST way to lube a chain is to remove it, clean it, and soak it in a hot bowl of wax based grease.. The mist important place to get the lube is INSIDE the holes of the "8" to lubricate the pins that run through them... cold lubricant often does not penetrate, and even using penetrating lube can leave dry joints that then wear the pin out. Soaking in a hot lube will expand the air inside the holes and suck the lube in as it cools... Then you wipe of ALL the lube you can as the lube on the outside of a chain does absolutely nothing Trouble is... that's a lot of work. So engineers like myself that have been hot lubing their motocross bikes for over 30 years... (Duckhams make a can you slap on a stove and immerse the chain in)... just buy a can of synthetic spray grease like HSS2000 that penetrates into the pins, evaporates to leave the grease behind and it's a chain lube grease so strings itself along to the other links... and wipe off the chain before it goes tacky. I am a maintenance engineer and that stuff is more handy than a hammer! And if you really want a cheap excellent clean of bikes etc... look up CT18... put it this way... would YOU sell truckies ANYTHING that wasn't good... (Just try a meal at a truck-stop vs a takeaway). FYI, I am on my 1st replacement chain on the Giant Faith I got in Xmas 2019 ,, (Tho havent been riding a lot this last year.. I've been focusing on "throwing plastic at trees".
@@KevDoes I used to clean the cain of my Raleigh Chopper when I was 10... back in 78. Though I had a stand to hold the bike up and lent on it with a shoulder giving 2 hands free so I could runt the pedal forward so could work on the top chain with it running away from the rear hub... and without gears (well 3 but they were in the hub) there was no room to use a rag on the bottom of the chain.. (oh and it had backpedal brakes). Backpedaling with a derailleur is sooo much easier... but it seems everyone makes such a big deal of lubing the chain.. when it doesn't matter if you get a bit much... only if you don't have enough. Motorbikes mave a really great chain lube.. it froths, penetrates and dries up leaving a sticky grease... But I have HSS2000 at work and in my van... and its used for everything... Another useless bit of info.. Spray grease and a lighter makes for a really affective flame thrower (that sticks and burns)... I Soooooo could have turned out wrong with different upbringing.. Luckily my dad basically said "This is MY Garage... try not to break things" so I was using a lathe as a 10yo.. basically learned early how to use things.. and to respect what I should & shouldn't do with them. q8)
@@KevDoes I forgot to mention... As a maintenance engineer... My 2 main tools are, the spray grease mentioned above... and BRAKE CLEAN. I went through so many cans of brake clean that I changed to a pump bottle and 20lt cubes of brake clean. I clean my chain with brake clean (and the rear assembly) then use the spray grease to re-lube the chain. I also love brake clean (along with meths) for cleaning brake pads.. I see so many 'experts' saying you should throw out pads if you taint them with oil... Brake Clean is made to do as the name implies... I got a 2nd hand DH bike just before covid... my 1st 2 videos on my channel are on that bike with a blown shock and pads sooo impregnated with oil that with a full handfull of brake the bike would 'slow down'. I cleaned them with brake clean an shaking the pads in a small jar with meths.. (finishing on brake clean... The pads were nearly black when I began, 30 mins later they were grey/fawn like new... and those 2nd hand pads are still on the bike 4 years later (tho I haven't done a lot of riding this last year the videos show I am not too slow.. and I switched to 1 finger braking straight after washing those pads for the 1st time.. and never went back.. (Helps that my bike runs XT and 200mm rotors). u could do a vid on that if you run out of ideas... soak pads in oil then see if they can be cleaned... (Oh and a can of brake clean not only is brilliant to clean the chain before re-lubing... you can spray your brakes, on the bike, every now and then, and it helps remove any oils that naturally made it to the pad (like grass etc)
Exactly how I do it. Two things I want to point out is that the teeth behind the crank arms are often overlooked, and you can also use a stiff brush to remove stubborn dirt on the chainring & pulley teeth before using a rag. You might also wanna wipe off the lube on the chainring after you're done with the chain.
YES,SOMEONE WHO GETS IT RIGHT! Almost everyone wrongly lubes the outside🙄 The one-dot-per-bush thing is overly difficult though. There's an easy way to do it that's close to perfect. Use a lube that has a tube outlet.Position the tube so that when the chain is rotating the tube is dragging while depositing lube on the inside of the bushes. The continuous stream is broken by surface tension after it's applied,meaning it all gathers on each bush. This technique puts some oil inside the plates but not much.The times saving is worth that tiny bit of wasted lube. Also,doing it with the bike upside down is usually easier
I use brake clean to remove the old.. let it dry.. then a synthetic spray grease to apply.. and with the tube on the can aiming along the chain so any overspray just lands further along... I don't even need to wipe much up as the spray grease (personally I use HSS2000 or motorbike chain lube) dries sticky... I ride muddy and dusty trails (as per the mediocre videos I did) yet never had an issue with dirt in the chain wearing out the chain... I put a new chain on when I got the bike 2nd hand.. and replaced the chain about 3 years later.. after most of the videos). I think they like the 1 dot thing because the 'ICE' wax etc are so stupidly overprices for no discernible advantage to the average rider. My YZ250 2poke was putting far more stress on the chain and I often had it axle deep in mud even to the point where you could hear the stones in the mud crunching through the chain... I just used brake clean to pre clean any throw off, then motorbike chain lube.. and later the spray grease we had at work... not a 'made for purpose' chain lube.. but in my poinion, worked just as well for me... (as average as they come)
@@TheButlerNZsolvent cleaner is one thing i never use.I dont want solvent washing any grease from INSIDE the bushes. Am i right? No idea😄.But i've found ways to clean the chain without solvent so i'll go with it
@@ronchappel4812 If you soak, and pressure wash with solvent 'Maybe' you wash the grease out of the pins... but as someone that has spent the last 15 years actually TRYING to get grease out of tight spots.. it's amazing how well it stays in there if your not heating it up and moving it about... and if (like me) your using a spray grease that has penetrating abilities.. and let the (brake Clean) dissolve 1st, then your replacing tainted grease within, with fresh grease. I stress brake clean as i have found it the least 'Solvent' of things like Petrol (which has all sorts of additives including alcohol and detergents that you don't really want left behind... I haven't had a lot of experience with carbon fibre but even some detergents can be 'not too hot' with the epoxy so I'd avoid it... but chains ain't carbon. Having said that about petrol... A rag soaked in petrol (and squeezed out.. oh and applied with gloves as some/most petrol is just nasty) .. wiped over the chain, will remove most if not all the muck on the outside and not penetrate at all (remember that bit about squeezing it out). Something I learnt way back some 40+ years ago... an oily rag almost always removes MORE grease than a dry one.. I love old towels for rag (I least like rag with higher thread count than t-shirts). I have a couple of old oily rags always on hand to do the 1st wipes to get rid of dryish oily dirt before moving on... THAT said... I don't use rags for 95% of my cleaning anymore.. (I have a pile of old work shirts waiting to be used as rag... and they are just going to be disappointed) because I use paper towels... Cheap.. clean... throw one away, grab the next... spray brake clean on them and there is no 'fluid' to penetrate, only a damp tissue to wipe... If your worried about brakeclean getting into the pins... do that!. (A bit of background on my experiance... Brought up with a dad that said "This is MY garage... try not to break things"... so was hands on as a 10yo using lathes etc... then did IT for 25 years because I didn't want to be a mechanic like dad and bro (while riding bikes and motorbikes to the point where I could disassemble/reassemble my IT200 motor 100% with no manual.. and I mean I had every nut/bolt & bearing out of that old thing)... Then when i got sick of the politics of IT firing teams then hiring them back on contract, firing all the boffins that knew everything and hiring cheap 'yes men' students and overseas teams/helpdesks... I helped out a friend at his work temporarily... and am still there 15 years ago.. fixing pressure washers up to 12000PSI (as per one of my vids), steam cleaners, diesel heaters, generators.. and things that people can't find any mechanic that will touch it... I'm not an expert at all... just fairly practical and lazy (I like the best way to fix something that won't come back with the same/other issues too quickly). oh and I talk too much if you didn't get that from the above short comment.
Between the plates is the only place on the chain that actually needs lube. The bushings only take a static load, the plates are in a constant state of flexing back and forth as they work their way through the drivetrain. Almost all of the friction in a chain driven system comes from the friction between the plates.
Riding conditions change how I lube. Summer, and on my dry only bike lol this is what I do... but come winter with wet roads and grit I splash a bit more on amazing how fast rust can start on unprotected parts of the chain. Although its 99% visual effect only it causes me mental distress.
I flip my bike wipe off the dirt till the chain looks brand new take some canned air blow off any dirt that’s resting between the links then I turn the chain and put this lube called blue lightning on like 5 drops and that’s it I ride my bike to work during the spring all summer to fall as long as the weather is good and I never have to lubricate the chain but every few months the only other maintenance I do is adjust the derailleurs when they start skipping a sprocket or don’t shift to the next one I’ve had my bike since 2018 and only had 2 flats and still have the original tubes lol
The more valid answer is hot wax submersion. No residue, clean to touch. Lowest resistance. Will never go back to a wet lube except for an emergency situation.
Wax isn't dirty at all, no dirty lube to spray all over, then you need chemicals to clean it off, wiping out the seals/bearings etc, with wax it only takes water to clean the bike/drivetrain, etc.. I use Squirt wax a drop at a time too. No chance of contaminating your brakes.
The main reason I do it this way, it to get rid of the grains of sand and other small dirt. When you only clean with a cloth, grains will keep sticking in the edges. When you use a brush and gasoil, you can rinse away these particles, which gives your chain a longer life.@@KevDoes
You dont have to locate the master link. When your front chain ring is 40 teeth and your chain length is 120, it's 3 full revolutions backwards, done. Also you still use too much lube imo. And turn the bike, saves a lot hassle.
@@KevDoes Why would I? There are 118 in the package and I took 6 to fit it. Hence 112 left. I just know the number already. 120 was only an example. Ah and I should say, sometimes I have a hard to spot masterlink. Or even no masterlink.
Honestly, this wiping does no major difference. The sand in between plates/rollers stays, and keeps grinding the chain. No matter wax or oil, to be effective and last longer a chain has to be properly cleaned. Regularly and often. Used hot waxing - doesn't work after riding 200+ км, runs dry, squeaky, rusty in the rain and needs additional wax lube. And since i have got no time for it to dry, switched back to oil. Oil is messy, dirty, some smell terrible. But it works and is easy to re-apply on long journeys.
I had one made by Park Tools. I used it twice. Way too messy. Just clean and lube often using something that lets you do it in one step and you will do it. Throw that nasty thing away.
This method won't clean the old lube and built-up gunk, sand and grit between the chain links, which is what causes the most wear... It's best to start with a degreaser on the chain, chainring and cassette. Let that work, then hose down, dry with a rag and then let air-dry. Even better: use a proper chain cleaner like Pedro's or Park Tool's. THEN apply the lube.
Applying lube , via a drop per link, is not the best method of lubing a chain . Rather a continuous flow of lube at the cassette while rotating the chain backwards is far superior. I’ve used both techniques and learned this from direct experience.
Wait a half hour after adding a drop to each roller then wipe it and turn the chain until the next section of links are on the bottom, takes a while but it allows the lube to get into the rollers deeper
You forgot to push down on the chain below the lower triangle while spinning it backwards, then push down on the chain from the upper side. Then while you're running it through the dogs you wipe as it passes through. In other words there are three sprockets to clean, the chain, top n bottom and while it passes over the rear cogs. Then finally you grab the chain lightly with your rag and run it through. It gets almost everything. Then, no you're not wasting lube by living and spinning. Why? Because that dry line youre using will get on the cogs and sprocket anyway and get the rest of the chain. So lubing each link point individually like that makes ZERO difference. If you use wet lube then excess lube will definitely pile up.
What works good for me is to clean the chain off with the ShopRite and it takes a lot but I get another Shop towell in fill it stopping wet full of lube and just run that through the luby towell it kind of cleans and lubes at the same time but it is wasteful
I cut a strap of a paper towel and push it to the bottom cage wheel while spinning backwards, to let chain warp it around the wheel, then i lubricate chain. It helps a lot catching all the extra lube.
Good idea. After a wet ride, when the bike gets to a dry place, if you add the drops, capillary action of the wetness drying will pull the lube into the smallest deepest spots. Let that happen for hours then rag off the excess, not right away.
if you have to choose between no lubrication and this kind of lubrication, then that's fine, but if you're looking at the method of lubrication that will ensure the maximum durability of the chain, then this is the worst way
@@KevDoes a long time ago, I lubricated the chain with regular oil in the same way. I've always wondered how a chain in a car engine can last 100-200,000km. the answer is because that chain is in pure oil with very little or no impurities. Therefore, if the chain on the bicycle was always clean from the inside, it could last longer. To achieve this, the lubricant must not pick up dirt from the road. That's why wax is ideal because it's dry and doesn't collect dust or very little and that dust doesn't get into the chain where it eats it. wiping a dirty chain with a cloth doesn't remove the internal dirt, but pushes the external dirt into the chain even more. since you're using dry oil, you should wash chain first so that all the dirt comes out of the chain and only then lubricate it. if you were using wax, you could heat the chain while it's on the bike, wax the chain and then wipe it with a cloth and all the dirt will come off the chain in one or two passes. I've been doing it for years and my chain lasts 6 times longer on pure wax than on oil
I agree, the lube belongs between the plates on the outside edges of the chain. Lubing the roller in the center does nothing to reduce the friction in the system. I was a professional bike mechanic for more than a decade, all the mechanics lube the plates not the rollers.
@@cframes lube must enter into chain between inner plates and pin, by 2 ways: 1. between inner and outer plates, 2. between rollers and inner plates. the place where the chain wears out and stretches is the surface of the pin on which the inner plates slide, the surfaces between the outer and inner plates create friction but do not affect the stretching and durability of the chain
I'm not talking about distance, talking about time. I've never had a lube dry out with just sitting in an enclosed heated storage. And , no, I've never had a lube dry out on me other than Muc Off@@KevDoes
2 minutes and 30 secondes but so well explained love it
I’m honored thank you!
As much as I love your delivery I have to be the naysayer to this method. I've been a cyclist for thirty years and I was a professional bike mechanic for eleven of those years. I am now a professional machinist, so I feel exceptionally qualified to make an observation here. The place where you most want the lube to penetrate the chain is between the plates on the edges of each link. Putting lube only in the middle of the chain does nothing to minimize the friction where those plates meet. Your method is almost perfect, you just need to place one drop on either side of the chain where the plates rub together, not in the center of the chain. If you lube the edges of the chain lube will still get into the roller. The roller of the chain only takes a static load when the chainring or cog engages, but the side plates are in a constant state of flexing back and forth. Of course you still need to wipe the chain after lubing to insure minimal buildup of contamination.
I had one of the first Dawes MTBs back in the 80s. The manufacturer's advice in their instruction sheet was to lube the chain as Kev has shown. I know that there are different views but I would expect Dawes, who had been in the business for many decades before then, to know their stuff. However in those days, the sophisticated lubes we now have were not available and I think that they expected the "oil" to work its way from the rollers into the side plates. So I think nowadays, it is a question of how spreadable the lube is. Having followed this method for decades now, it seem to work well. My last chain lasted 4500k and it was not even skipping.
@@nigelduckworth4419 If you think about this from an engineering perspective the most friction occurs between the plates where they rub back and forth. Lube creates a surfactant effect that holds on to the grit and grime that happens when the metal starts to wear away. The roller in the center of the chain is actually held in place once it is engaged in the sprockets of the drivetrain so it actually has negligible friction wear. While you may have had your chain for 4500k I'm willing to bet that chain wasn't passing through a twelve speed drivetrain. Modern bikes have tight tolerances that require more precise and more frequent lubrication.
@@nigelduckworth4419 4500k is certainly significant. I'm willing to bet however that your chain was either a single speed or 7 speed chain. These days the chain in an 11 or 12 speed sti system relies on a very tight tolerance for performance. Wear is not the issue in modern chains, friction and articulation are much more important. The best way to insure full performance is to get lube in between those plates. Unfortunately the days of 4500k chains are over but we got superb shifting performance in exchange, so I call that a net gain.
No offence regarding your qualification, but it is you who is mistaken. By far the most friction occurs within the rollers. It's easy - just think about where most pressure between links is applied. That is the location where the most relevant friction is being generated. (just checkout ZFC)
The video producer on the other hand does his biggest mistake in the very beginning - the lube choice (even by for oil based lubricants).
Yes you do sound qualified enough. I am a mechanical engineer and I have been a competitive cyclist for a bit over 60 years (and still doing it) - so I suppose it all depends on your training, experiences and dedication.
I let my wax based dry lube sit for a least a few hours (usually overnight) before wiping and riding so the carrier penetrates and then evaporates. The chain is dry and doesn't attract near as much dirt.
Haven’t tried that! Sounds good
@@KevDoes once I hit every roller on the chain with lube, I give the chain about 10 full revolutions to help it penetrate, then leave it overnight.
@@digerati808 that also helps transfer lube to rollers you missed (and coat round the rollers) allowing further penetration from more angles... good stuf.
The solvent carries the lube into the nether regions of the chain almost instantly. If you then wipe off as much as you can right away, you take more dirt and gunk off with it and there’s less stuff remaining to dry off. Don’t worry - there will be enough lube remaining where you need it, and very little where you don’t.
@@trackie1957 👆👆We need more of this. This is the technical talk that's hard to find. There's only one BEST way to lube your chain for dry dirt riding, so I'm always looking for more input. I've been torn between the two methods, wiping right away to pull more gunk of the drivetrain or simply leave it on to penetrate longer. I've been wiping first, apply lube to sit overnight, then wipe before a ride, but have wondered if your method is better. For a while I did your method for a good cleaning and then apply another round of lube for penetration. Over time that seemed to be overkill. My thoughts on some of these newer wax-based dry lubes is that they're more viscous and take way longer to penetrate than an oil-based wet lube. That being said, I've leaned more towards allowing more time for penetration.
Have you noticed your drivetrain is cleaner and you get the same amount of dry dirt miles between lubes?
I do almost the exact same routine, but put my bike upside-down. For me, it's easier to do all the wiping and lubing that way.. Putting the bike in a workstand makes it a lot easier....no bending over for all the tasks involved. I do your routine after every bike ride. Always get at least 5,000 mi/ chain, and cassettes and chainrings last longer. Also, another tip...every 500-700 mi I use a chain scrubber and solvent to deep clean the chain, let dry & then lube. To clean the cassette after every ride, I use a dry scrub brush, put the chain on the smallest cog, and scrub off all that surface dirt & grime on the cogs so it doesn't re-contaminate the freshly lubed and clean chain. Really nice video, well-done! Simple & to the point. Kudos!
Those are all great tips! 5,000 miles per chain? That’s amazing!
be careful putting the bike upside down - I've always done it with no issues but got bitten recently. direct quote from Shimano -
• When turning the bicycle upside down or on its side, the brake system may have some air bubbles inside the reservoir tank which are still there when
the bleed screw is closed, or which accumulate in various parts of the brake system when it is used for long periods. This disc brake system is not
designed to work with the bicycle upside down. If the bicycle is turned upside down or on its side, the air bubbles inside the reservoir tank may move
in the direction of the calipers. If the bicycle is ridden in this condition, there is danger that the brakes may not operate and a serious accident may
occur. If the bicycle has been turned upside down or on its side, be sure to operate the brake lever a few times to check that the brakes operate
normally before riding the bicycle. If the brakes do not operate normally, adjust them according to the following procedure.
@@im-on-youtube in practice, this isn't really an issue. You can flick the brake levers a bunch of times and this usually brings any air bubbles back up to the top.
Upside down is really the only way to do it with an e-bike as pedalling backwards doesn't move the front sprocket (either that or using a bike stand).
Don't upside down with hydraulic brakes
Great video and perfectly explained that the oil only needs to be inside the gap from the rollers and then can be wiped off from the rest of the chain, many videos and people dont explain that process like you did. Good job.
Thank you!
An awesome example of how to do a How To on UA-cam. Concise, yet doesn't skip detail.
I appreciate that!
I had to give up on Muc-Off's lube. That residue it leaves behind on the cassette is incredible and super hard to get off! Even with degreaser, the dark coating it leaves behind won't come off. I went back to using Redline and all is well.
Interesting I haven’t noticed a Dark residue on mine
2 stroke motor oil works the best for me. It seeps to the inside of the roller very easily. I apply it once a week on my commuter after meticulous cleaning with dish washing soap and a toothbrush.. The chain last for about a year with very minor stretch.
@@KevDoes None on mine either. Most of the bio-lubes are horrible for that.
That ceramic-like deposit is crazy - won't come off with any degreaser. You need to practically scrape it off. 😬
Couldn't agree more about muc-off. Terrible stuff.
Kev sure lubed up that channel, content is FLOWING!
hahahaaaaaaaa this one had me ROLLING
I like your patience and attention to detail.
Works for me, but not all characters.
Glad it works for you!
Perfect! I do the same with my bike upside down. But I give the chain a good cleanup as well by spinning the crank and squeezing the chain in the rag. As a finishing touch, I spray the rag with Armour All, then polish the chain up with it.
This is a great way to lube your chain and how I used to do it. I gave up on liquid lubes and switched to hot waxing. It's certainly worth investigation. It takes some prep, but lasts hundreds of miles, greatly reduces drivetrain wear and noise and the chain stays so clean you can rub your hand on it and it comes away clean.
That sounds so nice, I wanna try that soon
@@KevDoes Hot wax works, but you can get equivalent results without all the extra work by using a modern wax based lube. The wax is dissolved in a solvent that evaporates, leaving a dry wax coating behind.
You'll also find that generously flooding the chain with this kind of lube, then wiping it off leaves all the surfaces cleaner, and each time you do it, more of the shmutz left over from whatever lube or factory new chain grease has collected comes off.
Not absolutely necessary, but definitely a good thing to do is to wait at least a couple of hours after applying before riding so all the solvent evaporates and the wax hardens fully.
I get doing the drop by drop method, but that technique is an artifact of using lubes that don't solidify or completely dry out. Any excess from the wax based stuff just flakes off as you ride and takes the dirt with it.
@@jm-um1txI agree with you 1000% rock and roll gold is my lube of choice. I do it every ride takes 2 minutes and my chain looks as good as a hot wax chain.
Clear, concise, and to the point! Job well done! Thanks for posting this!
*
My pleasure!
I take my chain off every two weeks. I use a KMC chain link. I wash it in kerosene, wash it in hot soapy water, rinse and swing the chain around to get rid of the water (like a centrifuge). Then I coil my chain and put it in a saucepan full of 10w30 engine oil and heat it up on a camper stove, until just before it boils. This gets the oil into the bearings. I hang the chain and l let it cool down. While that’s happening I clean the chain rings and the cluster. After about 15 minutes, I wipe the whole chain down to get the oil from the outside of the chain. I put the chain back on going in the opposite direction to balance the stretch and wear. The chain does not gather dirt, stays clean and just lasts longer. Old school maintenance, but I rarely have chain issues and I get couple of seasons out of a chain. It’s worth the effort.
That’s amazing
Instead of Kero, Wash it with brake clean.
10w30 doesn't stick (it's primarily for internal gearboxes so it can be collected as it flings off)... You could get some chain lube for chainsaws which is cheap and has a 'sticky' additive...
better yet, buy a can of motorbike chain lube and you can do the whole lot on the bike without removing it.. Brake clean to clean off the hub, gears and chain, then chain lube on the chain...
There was a product ,,, Duckhams chainguard that does what you do... but leaves a sticky wax/grease rather than an oil that will flow away... and heating it on the stove gets it into the pins on the chain.
That’s a lot of work, but if you get satisfaction from it, rock on! I used to do the same thing using melted wax as the lube, back in the 70 - 80’s. I get as good results now with my mineral spirits/ gear oil mixture, brush on, wipe off.
BTW, there’s no such thing as chain stretch. It the accumulated wear of all the pins that lengthens it. Turning the chain around does reduce that and extends its life.
@@trackie1957 yep, thanks - that’s what I do. The wear is predominantly where the rollers and teeth mesh. I do it on my road bike and track bike.
Sound like chain cleaning for the sake of chain cleaning itself. How do you find time to ride?
Great video 👍🏿, I do the same. The only thing I do different is I lube the night prior to my ride and let the lube sit on the chain. I then wipe the chain prior to my ride 🙂. I'm sure either works tho, just my two cents.
That’s a good touch!
Me too. If it seeps in over night there's not much to wipe off.
A big THANK You for this video, I absolutely agree and do it the same way. I keep watching the "dream build" videos, people spend half a day, maybe more building beautiful bikes and filming it, and at the end they can't spend extra 3 minutes to lube the chain properly. Instead they just spin the cranks and drown the chain in oil..
Haha that’s so true. But those dream builds are so satisfying
Good video. I put ancient Pedro's Syn Lube in a sewing machine oiling pen, which puts a minuscule drop on the chain links.
1980 Gios Torino Super Record with the first generation Campagnolo Athena group. 42-53 chainring, 14-16-17-18-19-20 freewheel. Back from when bicycles actually looked like bicycles.
The good old days huh?
I like the oiling pen idea.
Great video. One other comment I might suggest is to flip your rag over more often I'm constantly moving my rag around. And it's not a bad idea to have gloves on for this operation.
Yeah, you could for sure
This is exactly what I’ve done for decades. As a last step I wipe excess wetness off the jockey wheels and chainrings. A wire brush can sometimes help dislodge dried bits of dirt from the chain and cassette. No need to be obsessive, just consistent!
Love it! I’m at almost 2,000 miles on this chain!
The only thing I would add is to let the chain lube soak in for a few minutes, maybe three, before wiping off the excess. That gives the lube time to soak in. BTW, the chain lube that Kev usedMucOff Dry Lube, came in best of a comparison of several lubes. Use dry lube unless you,live in a rainy area. Wet lube creates more mess.
So true!
I also have a few things to add. - 1 - first check the chain for chain stretch using a simple go/no go chain stretch tool. If it's still good, - 2 - after applying the lube, SLOWLY rotate the pedals about 20 times to make sure the lube starts soaking in to the inside of the chain rollers. Then let it stand overnight which positively gets the inner workings of the chain soaked with the lube. - 3 - The next day, wipe it off any remaining external residual as demonstrated in the video. - 4 - As for frequency, I use the trip meter on my bike computer to record approximately 300 miles before re-lubing. Keeping fresh, clean lube on the chain helps to get the maxinum use out of your chain. @@KevDoes
If the lubrication is warm to hot it flows into the pins and rollers easier. You wipe the chain down when it has cooled, leaving the good stuff inside
This is a technique that I used in bikes shops when I was a mechanic. One thing that I would add is to let the lube soak in for a few minutes then wipe it down. This allows the lube more time to get deep into the link where it is needed.
Yeah, great add!
Oh, that’s much more work than necessary!
First of all, I use a 5:1 mixture of mineral spirits to 90W gear oil. It does a great job of cleaning the chain and lubricating. I apply it with a small brush. If you want to use expensive chain lube, fine, but you might have to use a separate cleaner.
Second, shift your bike to the highest gear in the back. That helps keep any spatter off the tire.
Find the master link, brush some lube on the chain, and when you have gotten to the whole chain, back pedal a few times and wipe it off. Do your reasonable best to get it all off and you are done.
👍🏽
How is mixing one's own proprietary cleaning fluid and applying it with a brush not "more work than necessary"?
I tried Your recipe. I think 5-1 is too big a dilution. After some 80km of riding I have a feeling that my chain runs dry and becomes noisy. I'm trying 3-1 now. Anyway. Your method is fast, simple and seems to be better than other methods ( simple bike lubes, liquid waxes -Squirt, parafin , etc)-tried them all. Maybe I'm overdoing it- additionaly I use old toothbrush to better clean old gunk and more stubborn stuff.
I switched to hot waxing for my dry/dusty trails. I never got good results with muc off. Even letting it sit for a week or so to air dry never really worked... still managed to create gray/black grinding paste after just 15-20 miles.
Yeah everyone is hating on the mucoff lol. But for sure want to try waxing soon
nothing new here - but nearly correct. I go with cframes and i use a small brush instead of just dripping the fluid. And i use a special self-made lubricant out of wax, dry-lube (MoS2) and some Diesel or heating oil as solvent to make it more fluent.
nice!
It's nice to do it properly this way, but actually, the old spinning of the chain method makes it so there a no big drops forming which allows very light application. You just have to lay the tip directly onto the rollers and match the speed at which the oil comes out. If the chain still feels dry, do another rotation. Saves time and wiping the excess too if you dont get hung up when turning the crank ;)
Ps any dry spots will get covered by the cogs spreading it on different links by each rotation. Doing drops on the latches themselves is better, but putting more does the job just as well with a good creeping chain fluid and if not, follow up with an old dry toothbrush.
Nice cassette :))
Thank you!
Looks good.
Is it worth doing the same thing but from the top too, above the chain ring, so lube gets in both ways?
Good question! It’s not, the lube when you drop it goes all around the link and gets everything lubed
I recommend applying the oil from the top only, because the outside of the chain only touches the top pulley when it goes around the sprockets - the inside of the chain touches three sprockets so theoretically deposits three times as much oil in unwanted places
This is basic stuff that everyone who owns a bike should know, but most people don't know. Nicely done.
Thank you 👍🏽
Almost the same way I do it. Excellent well delivered video. 👍.
Thank you!
Cleaning the side links and rollers: You have the correct method of holding the chain with a rag. Only, make it simple on yourself, just oil up part of the rag first, so when griping the chain you apply a layer of anti-rust to your entire chain, the oil\ rag will also cleans as it lubes. Then spin away, takes 30 seconds.
You are correct, the roller to sprocket rubbing is where the wear occurs; side links just seize up if not oiled.
Thanks for sharing
Great explanation and demo. Thanks!
You are welcome!
Touch tip to top of chain. Spin chain backwards while gently squeezing out lube. Lube ends up in exact same place as going link by link. Use Squirt and don't bother cleaning it off - it turns to wax and the dirty parts flake off anyway. Don't bother cleaning cassette, chain, or chainrings. Bad stuff flakes off and you are just replacing bad with good. Any more effort, you could be out riding.
Glad you found what works for you!
I discovered a lot of this by doing but thanks for validating my assumptions. 👍🏻
Any time!
También puedes poner la cadena en el pinion más grande y corona más grande para que al lubricar, se abran los eslabones para aceptar mejor el aceite en el interior de los eslabones. Saludos.
buena suggestion! Gracias!
eso también facilita el acceso a la cadena con un trapo
(I hope that came out ok... Google Translate)
Link by link lubing is so satisfying and meditative...
😂
I love it!
Very efficient! Nicely done.
Thank you!
it is effective in leaving dirt inside the chain
nice video but why would you use a dirty rag for freshly lubed bike chain
Just use the clean parts
It takes no more time to mix the lube than it does to add sugar to your latte.
Then using a small brush puts the stuff on the chain instead of the floor or your tires.
Everything else is pretty much equal.
The job of cleaning and lubing your chain should be quick, cheap, simple and effective. In 62 years of riding and maintaining bikes, I’ve tried a lot of chain maintenance things. This one works best for me, and I’ve been doing it for about 15 years. Do whatever you want, I’m just suggesting.
Yeah I didn’t show the mixing because I just do it without thinking but definitely helpful!
How do you clean that rag when it gets too dirty? I wouldn't just put it in my washing machine.
That’s what I do
Instead of searching for the master link as a starting point something I've always done is clean and mark one link with a drop of nail polish which won't wipe off and is much easier to spot.
nail polish - good idea!
glad you found what works for you
1) great techniques on cleaning, 2) correct way to Lube. That's how I was taught at 17, 50 years ago, and have been doing it the very same way since.
Oh nice! If it’s worked for that long then why change right
@@KevDoes Yes, do it right the first time. Thanks for the great video showing others how it's done. Much respect!
I don't like that Muc off either like somebody else has commented. I use warm water a brush and rags and Dawn dish soap to thoroughly clean my derailer and chain and chain rings. Just wiping things down with a rag does not thoroughly clean all of the fine grit out of your chain. Then I dry it off and leave it alone for a while and let it completely dry. Then I use wolf tooth WT1. I have tried so many different types of lubes and this one is the best. Hot wax is old school and is very low on the abrasion resistance scale. There is some absolute nerd out there that does videos on different types of chain lube with an abrasion resistance machine. That's how I got sold on Wolftooth. It also keeps my drivetrain more quiet than anything else I have tried.
That's intense!
how much time it takes, i can clean and hot wax chain on bike in 10 minutes and chain survives 6 times longer than on oil
@@makantahi3731 that might be your opinion, but a real world test that measures abrasive resistance shows that wax is far worse than high-quality chain lube. Might be OK if you ride a road bike in dry weather. Otherwise it is bottom of the scale.
@user-ke9yk5qp3u really? Interesting
@@KevDoes i'll see if I can find the link. There is some guy that has this machine that is able to measure abrasion against two pieces of metal and he can measure the wear down to a micron. He then applies lubricant and runs it for a given period of time. He tests that up against multiple chain lube's and wax. It's super interesting. Chain lube is a very personal thing however! 😂
Solid content man! 🤙🏼😎
thank you!
I do it the same way, only I either use Boeshield (winter) or Triflow (summer)
Nice!
Remove the chain, place into an Ultra Sonic Cleaner with degreaser and water and zap it for 20 mins. When that has done its job rinse the chain off in cold water thoroughly. Then place the chain on a metal grill and blast with a 2000 watt fan heater for about 30-60 seconds then let cool down. Once cooled down place chain into a plastic food takeaway box sidewards down then pop a small amount of lube onto every pin, not too much and squirt a bit around the chain. Then place the lid on and pop the box into a pre heated pan of hot water, bring to a simmer and heat up. remove the box open up and turn the chain the other way around and repeat process once again. Once you have done that let the chain cool down. At this point I advice you to remove the cassette and clean and re-install the cassette then wipe the chain down and re-install the chain. That's how it is done properly, I hope that helps you for the future. Peace
👍🏽
👍 clear and useful tips
👌🏽
I have a controversial approach that works well for me. I don't use lube.
I always rub my chain down with a cloth soaked with GT85 spray after in wash it. I've found that works really well for the next ride.
I like the technique in your video though and may well give it a try. It's definitely better to take a less is more approach
Interesting! I’m sure there are other ways to make it work
For starters, grab the rag around the chain where it exits the derailleur with your left hand (little finger toward the back) and you can backpedal with your right hand and not have to keep moving your arm away from the cranks.
2nd... the BEST way to lube a chain is to remove it, clean it, and soak it in a hot bowl of wax based grease..
The mist important place to get the lube is INSIDE the holes of the "8" to lubricate the pins that run through them... cold lubricant often does not penetrate, and even using penetrating lube can leave dry joints that then wear the pin out.
Soaking in a hot lube will expand the air inside the holes and suck the lube in as it cools... Then you wipe of ALL the lube you can as the lube on the outside of a chain does absolutely nothing
Trouble is... that's a lot of work.
So engineers like myself that have been hot lubing their motocross bikes for over 30 years... (Duckhams make a can you slap on a stove and immerse the chain in)... just buy a can of synthetic spray grease like HSS2000 that penetrates into the pins, evaporates to leave the grease behind and it's a chain lube grease so strings itself along to the other links... and wipe off the chain before it goes tacky.
I am a maintenance engineer and that stuff is more handy than a hammer!
And if you really want a cheap excellent clean of bikes etc... look up CT18... put it this way... would YOU sell truckies ANYTHING that wasn't good... (Just try a meal at a truck-stop vs a takeaway).
FYI, I am on my 1st replacement chain on the Giant Faith I got in Xmas 2019 ,, (Tho havent been riding a lot this last year.. I've been focusing on "throwing plastic at trees".
Mind blown
@@KevDoes I used to clean the cain of my Raleigh Chopper when I was 10... back in 78. Though I had a stand to hold the bike up and lent on it with a shoulder giving 2 hands free so I could runt the pedal forward so could work on the top chain with it running away from the rear hub... and without gears (well 3 but they were in the hub) there was no room to use a rag on the bottom of the chain.. (oh and it had backpedal brakes).
Backpedaling with a derailleur is sooo much easier... but it seems everyone makes such a big deal of lubing the chain.. when it doesn't matter if you get a bit much... only if you don't have enough.
Motorbikes mave a really great chain lube.. it froths, penetrates and dries up leaving a sticky grease... But I have HSS2000 at work and in my van... and its used for everything...
Another useless bit of info.. Spray grease and a lighter makes for a really affective flame thrower (that sticks and burns)... I Soooooo could have turned out wrong with different upbringing.. Luckily my dad basically said "This is MY Garage... try not to break things" so I was using a lathe as a 10yo.. basically learned early how to use things.. and to respect what I should & shouldn't do with them.
q8)
@@KevDoes I forgot to mention... As a maintenance engineer... My 2 main tools are, the spray grease mentioned above... and BRAKE CLEAN.
I went through so many cans of brake clean that I changed to a pump bottle and 20lt cubes of brake clean.
I clean my chain with brake clean (and the rear assembly) then use the spray grease to re-lube the chain.
I also love brake clean (along with meths) for cleaning brake pads..
I see so many 'experts' saying you should throw out pads if you taint them with oil...
Brake Clean is made to do as the name implies... I got a 2nd hand DH bike just before covid... my 1st 2 videos on my channel are on that bike with a blown shock and pads sooo impregnated with oil that with a full handfull of brake the bike would 'slow down'.
I cleaned them with brake clean an shaking the pads in a small jar with meths.. (finishing on brake clean... The pads were nearly black when I began, 30 mins later they were grey/fawn like new... and those 2nd hand pads are still on the bike 4 years later (tho I haven't done a lot of riding this last year the videos show I am not too slow.. and I switched to 1 finger braking straight after washing those pads for the 1st time.. and never went back.. (Helps that my bike runs XT and 200mm rotors).
u could do a vid on that if you run out of ideas... soak pads in oil then see if they can be cleaned... (Oh and a can of brake clean not only is brilliant to clean the chain before re-lubing... you can spray your brakes, on the bike, every now and then, and it helps remove any oils that naturally made it to the pad (like grass etc)
is it easy to wash your cloth?
Yeah I just throw it in the washing machine. The stains don't really come out, but I keep 2-3 rags dedicated for chain stuff
I always buy two chains at the same time. Every 1000 km or so I swap them. This way 2 chains get “friendly” with my cluster and chainring.
Interesting
Exactly how I do it. Two things I want to point out is that the teeth behind the crank arms are often overlooked, and you can also use a stiff brush to remove stubborn dirt on the chainring & pulley teeth before using a rag. You might also wanna wipe off the lube on the chainring after you're done with the chain.
👍🏽
I do pretty much the same, but I use 99% isopropyl on my cloth to clean the chain, chainring and derailleur pulley wheels 🙂
That’s a nice touch!
Good job, flip the bike over and use an old inside out sock, that microfiber is great for waxing the paint. I like that process.
👍🏽
Mine goes in an ultrasonic bath..Comes out brilliant each and eveeytime
I would love to try one of those
YES,SOMEONE WHO GETS IT RIGHT! Almost everyone wrongly lubes the outside🙄
The one-dot-per-bush thing is overly difficult though. There's an easy way to do it that's close to perfect.
Use a lube that has a tube outlet.Position the tube so that when the chain is rotating the tube is dragging while depositing lube on the inside of the bushes. The continuous stream is broken by surface tension after it's applied,meaning it all gathers on each bush. This technique puts some oil inside the plates but not much.The times saving is worth that tiny bit of wasted lube.
Also,doing it with the bike upside down is usually easier
👌
I use brake clean to remove the old.. let it dry.. then a synthetic spray grease to apply.. and with the tube on the can aiming along the chain so any overspray just lands further along... I don't even need to wipe much up as the spray grease (personally I use HSS2000 or motorbike chain lube) dries sticky...
I ride muddy and dusty trails (as per the mediocre videos I did) yet never had an issue with dirt in the chain wearing out the chain... I put a new chain on when I got the bike 2nd hand.. and replaced the chain about 3 years later.. after most of the videos).
I think they like the 1 dot thing because the 'ICE' wax etc are so stupidly overprices for no discernible advantage to the average rider.
My YZ250 2poke was putting far more stress on the chain and I often had it axle deep in mud even to the point where you could hear the stones in the mud crunching through the chain...
I just used brake clean to pre clean any throw off, then motorbike chain lube.. and later the spray grease we had at work... not a 'made for purpose' chain lube.. but in my poinion, worked just as well for me... (as average as they come)
@@TheButlerNZsolvent cleaner is one thing i never use.I dont want solvent washing any grease from INSIDE the bushes.
Am i right? No idea😄.But i've found ways to clean the chain without solvent so i'll go with it
@@ronchappel4812 If you soak, and pressure wash with solvent 'Maybe' you wash the grease out of the pins... but as someone that has spent the last 15 years actually TRYING to get grease out of tight spots.. it's amazing how well it stays in there if your not heating it up and moving it about... and if (like me) your using a spray grease that has penetrating abilities.. and let the (brake Clean) dissolve 1st, then your replacing tainted grease within, with fresh grease.
I stress brake clean as i have found it the least 'Solvent' of things like Petrol (which has all sorts of additives including alcohol and detergents that you don't really want left behind...
I haven't had a lot of experience with carbon fibre but even some detergents can be 'not too hot' with the epoxy so I'd avoid it... but chains ain't carbon.
Having said that about petrol... A rag soaked in petrol (and squeezed out.. oh and applied with gloves as some/most petrol is just nasty) .. wiped over the chain, will remove most if not all the muck on the outside and not penetrate at all (remember that bit about squeezing it out).
Something I learnt way back some 40+ years ago... an oily rag almost always removes MORE grease than a dry one..
I love old towels for rag (I least like rag with higher thread count than t-shirts).
I have a couple of old oily rags always on hand to do the 1st wipes to get rid of dryish oily dirt before moving on...
THAT said... I don't use rags for 95% of my cleaning anymore.. (I have a pile of old work shirts waiting to be used as rag... and they are just going to be disappointed)
because I use paper towels... Cheap.. clean... throw one away, grab the next...
spray brake clean on them and there is no 'fluid' to penetrate, only a damp tissue to wipe... If your worried about brakeclean getting into the pins... do that!.
(A bit of background on my experiance...
Brought up with a dad that said "This is MY garage... try not to break things"... so was hands on as a 10yo using lathes etc... then did IT for 25 years because I didn't want to be a mechanic like dad and bro (while riding bikes and motorbikes to the point where I could disassemble/reassemble my IT200 motor 100% with no manual.. and I mean I had every nut/bolt & bearing out of that old thing)... Then when i got sick of the politics of IT firing teams then hiring them back on contract, firing all the boffins that knew everything and hiring cheap 'yes men' students and overseas teams/helpdesks... I helped out a friend at his work temporarily... and am still there 15 years ago.. fixing pressure washers up to 12000PSI (as per one of my vids), steam cleaners, diesel heaters, generators.. and things that people can't find any mechanic that will touch it...
I'm not an expert at all... just fairly practical and lazy (I like the best way to fix something that won't come back with the same/other issues too quickly).
oh and I talk too much if you didn't get that from the above short comment.
Between the plates is the only place on the chain that actually needs lube. The bushings only take a static load, the plates are in a constant state of flexing back and forth as they work their way through the drivetrain. Almost all of the friction in a chain driven system comes from the friction between the plates.
No degreaser?
Nope! Not just to lube
Riding conditions change how I lube. Summer, and on my dry only bike lol this is what I do... but come winter with wet roads and grit I splash a bit more on amazing how fast rust can start on unprotected parts of the chain.
Although its 99% visual effect only it causes me mental distress.
Hey that makes sense, do what makes you feel better!
I flip my bike wipe off the dirt till the chain looks brand new take some canned air blow off any dirt that’s resting between the links then I turn the chain and put this lube called blue lightning on like 5 drops and that’s it I ride my bike to work during the spring all summer to fall as long as the weather is good and I never have to lubricate the chain but every few months the only other maintenance I do is adjust the derailleurs when they start skipping a sprocket or don’t shift to the next one I’ve had my bike since 2018 and only had 2 flats and still have the original tubes lol
nice!
Its probably good to wipe the sprockets too after lubricaring and wiping the chain.
yeah, that's a good add
I always put a little bit of lube on the chainroles , them being totally shiny and dry makes me think my cassette suffers more
There you go!
How do you clean the rag
I just throw them in the washing machine
The more valid answer is hot wax submersion. No residue, clean to touch. Lowest resistance. Will never go back to a wet lube except for an emergency situation.
I can’t wait to try it!
Excellent. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Nw tell us how to get the excess lube back into the bottle.
wring out your rag 😅
Thanks Kev
My pleasure!
Wax isn't dirty at all, no dirty lube to spray all over, then you need chemicals to clean it off, wiping out the seals/bearings etc, with wax it only takes water to clean the bike/drivetrain, etc.. I use Squirt wax a drop at a time too. No chance of contaminating your brakes.
Yeah that's the next thing I want to try on my chains
I clean my chain with some gasoil, with a brush. The chain is cleaned and greased at the same time. Quick and very decent result.
I don’t think I’ve ever heard of that! Interesting!
The main reason I do it this way, it to get rid of the grains of sand and other small dirt. When you only clean with a cloth, grains will keep sticking in the edges. When you use a brush and gasoil, you can rinse away these particles, which gives your chain a longer life.@@KevDoes
You dont have to locate the master link. When your front chain ring is 40 teeth and your chain length is 120, it's 3 full revolutions backwards, done. Also you still use too much lube imo. And turn the bike, saves a lot hassle.
And you sit there and count every link in the revolution? No way, it’s far easier to just find the master link
@@KevDoes Why would I? There are 118 in the package and I took 6 to fit it. Hence 112 left. I just know the number already. 120 was only an example. Ah and I should say, sometimes I have a hard to spot masterlink. Or even no masterlink.
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
Honestly, this wiping does no major difference. The sand in between plates/rollers stays, and keeps grinding the chain. No matter wax or oil, to be effective and last longer a chain has to be properly cleaned. Regularly and often.
Used hot waxing - doesn't work after riding 200+ км, runs dry, squeaky, rusty in the rain and needs additional wax lube. And since i have got no time for it to dry, switched back to oil. Oil is messy, dirty, some smell terrible. But it works and is easy to re-apply on long journeys.
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Perfect. That’s the way I do it also.
Nice!
Thats correct way to lube your chain...i tie a small string in the chain to guide me so i dont overlap the oil
Oh nice!
Muc-off has tested as one of the worst lubes available
It smells so good though
@@KevDoesif possible, try Rex Chain Lube. Its expensive, but the best you can get.
I recommend a chaincleaner tool, i always use one before oiling chain
I had one made by Park Tools. I used it twice. Way too messy. Just clean and lube often using something that lets you do it in one step and you will do it. Throw that nasty thing away.
Those tools are nice, I was told by a mechanic that deep cleaning the chain often can damage it so I only do that every ~200 or so miles
This method won't clean the old lube and built-up gunk, sand and grit between the chain links, which is what causes the most wear... It's best to start with a degreaser on the chain, chainring and cassette. Let that work, then hose down, dry with a rag and then let air-dry. Even better: use a proper chain cleaner like Pedro's or Park Tool's. THEN apply the lube.
that's if you're trying to clean the chain. the goal of this video is just to show how I lube it
Awesome. Thanks.
You’re welcome!
Applying lube , via a drop per link, is not the best method of lubing a chain . Rather a continuous flow of lube at the cassette while rotating the chain backwards is far superior. I’ve used both techniques and learned this from direct experience.
I disagree, but glad you’re out riding 👍🏽
You are literally wasting lube and making no sense.
Wait a half hour after adding a drop to each roller then wipe it and turn the chain until the next section of links are on the bottom, takes a while but it allows the lube to get into the rollers deeper
haven't tried that before
I know it’s sacrilege but try it some time: Motul C3 spray chain lube just like what I use on my motorcycle.
You know several people have mentioned the same thing - you've had good luck with it on your bicycle?
You forgot to push down on the chain below the lower triangle while spinning it backwards, then push down on the chain from the upper side. Then while you're running it through the dogs you wipe as it passes through. In other words there are three sprockets to clean, the chain, top n bottom and while it passes over the rear cogs. Then finally you grab the chain lightly with your rag and run it through. It gets almost everything. Then, no you're not wasting lube by living and spinning. Why? Because that dry line youre using will get on the cogs and sprocket anyway and get the rest of the chain. So lubing each link point individually like that makes ZERO difference. If you use wet lube then excess lube will definitely pile up.
interesting
Eeeyyyyy ❤🎉 buen hecho👏
Gracias Comandante!
Just use chain wax, no more gunk on your drivetrain 🙃
so many people have mentioned this, I've got something in the works :)
What works good for me is to clean the chain off with the ShopRite and it takes a lot but I get another Shop towell in fill it stopping wet full of lube and just run that through the luby towell it kind of cleans and lubes at the same time but it is wasteful
Nice!
I cut a strap of a paper towel and push it to the bottom cage wheel while spinning backwards, to let chain warp it around the wheel, then i lubricate chain. It helps a lot catching all the extra lube.
interesting
Well done except that almost all lubes have to be vigorously shaken frequently do mix the magic partials you are paying for evenly.
That makes sense.
I paint the quick link with a red paint pen every few hundred miles, so I can find it fast.
There you go!
The BEST lubricant is Smoove - don't bother with traditional mineral oils (dirt attractors) or wax (too convoluted to apply). Apply and forget.
nice
Good Stuff mano!
Gracias!
I prefer waxing my chains. This keeps all components more clean.
Definitely want to try it!
@@KevDoes First clean with acetone or gasoline, wax and have fun for ever...
No more deposit.
Great advice
Thank you!
I tried the waxing thing decades ago. Not worth the effort in my opinion. Chain worked just as well and lasted as long doing exactly what hes doing.
Interesting, yeah I want to try it as well to see if it’s worth it but I’m not upset with the chain lubing
Good idea. After a wet ride, when the bike gets to a dry place, if you add the drops, capillary action of the wetness drying will pull the lube into the smallest deepest spots. Let that happen for hours then rag off the excess, not right away.
Whoaaa capillary action? I like the sound of that
Me gusto mucho!! gracias
De nada!
Ah the old days of lube….. I happy remove my chain and replace with pre waxed chain in about 30sec.
Super clean, no dirt or oil 👌
Two chains??? Ahhh you’re living in 2050 my friend 😅
I does like Kevdoes!
haha I love it
Use wax liquid, mutch better than these Muc Off oil's. Or wax your chain
Yeah I’ll be trying the wax soon!
if you have to choose between no lubrication and this kind of lubrication, then that's fine, but if you're looking at the method of lubrication that will ensure the maximum durability of the chain, then this is the worst way
Say more
@@KevDoes a long time ago, I lubricated the chain with regular oil in the same way. I've always wondered how a chain in a car engine can last 100-200,000km. the answer is because that chain is in pure oil with very little or no impurities. Therefore, if the chain on the bicycle was always clean from the inside, it could last longer. To achieve this, the lubricant must not pick up dirt from the road. That's why wax is ideal because it's dry and doesn't collect dust or very little and that dust doesn't get into the chain where it eats it. wiping a dirty chain with a cloth doesn't remove the internal dirt, but pushes the external dirt into the chain even more. since you're using dry oil, you should wash chain first so that all the dirt comes out of the chain and only then lubricate it. if you were using wax, you could heat the chain while it's on the bike, wax the chain and then wipe it with a cloth and all the dirt will come off the chain in one or two passes. I've been doing it for years and my chain lasts 6 times longer on pure wax than on oil
@@KevDoes i explained in wide but comment disappeared
I agree, the lube belongs between the plates on the outside edges of the chain. Lubing the roller in the center does nothing to reduce the friction in the system. I was a professional bike mechanic for more than a decade, all the mechanics lube the plates not the rollers.
@@cframes lube must enter into chain between inner plates and pin, by 2 ways: 1. between inner and outer plates, 2. between rollers and inner plates.
the place where the chain wears out and stretches is the surface of the pin on which the inner plates slide, the surfaces between the outer and inner plates create friction but do not affect the stretching and durability of the chain
thanks. You should insist ti be careful not to pinch the fingers with the sprocket. It may sabe a lot of kid's injuries
You’re welcome!
Simple chain lubing technique, except, I find Muc Off to be a below par lube
What don’t you like about it?
It dries out. I lubed all my chains for the winter and in the spring the chains were stiff@@KevDoes
Have you found a lube that doesn’t? I feel like a lube only last 30-60 miles before I gotta do it again
I'm not talking about distance, talking about time. I've never had a lube dry out with just sitting in an enclosed heated storage. And , no, I've never had a lube dry out on me other than Muc Off@@KevDoes
The only thing I would add is, remove the chain from the chairing to better clean the chain ring.
That would help
I find the cleaning step is easier with the chain on the smartest gear on the cassette.
It very well could be
This guy must be some smart if he knows I've been doing it wrong when he doesn't know how I lube my chain.
Thanks