It’s been a great truck to me, some stuff makes zero sense though. Like the factory ball joints were welded into the lower control arms, But even with over 500k miles I would still feel comfortable, hopping in it and driving it across the country. Thanks very much for watching.
Thanks for watching, funny thing I bought this rear axle in a set with the front one. Sold the front to a guy that was going to swap it in the front of his 98 ram 2500. Front axle bolted right up. Needed a new driveshaft made and adjustable control arms with a new track bar. That was apparently it. I’ve never done that swap so I can’t say from experience. I have been told that the steering is significantly better along with the track bar. Apparently fixes a lot of issues that these trucks are plagued with.
@@FenrirFabrication i’m planning on doing the front and rear on my 98 2500 some research past few days leads me to believe that it is pretty straightforward. I believe like you said the biggest thing as you need some adjustable front control arms as the mounting points are slightly different, causing the arms to need to tilt slightly to accommodate.
@@gooutsideandride overall it is a pretty straightforward swap, the rear can be done in less than a day, especially if you have a lift. And the front looks like it could actually be done even quicker, depending on what control arms you already have on the truck. That flange from the videos for my rear driveshaft has held up great to heavy towing and use for the last several thousand miles. You could likely get one for the front driveshaft, depending on if you have any lift or not, since it would make your driveshaft slightly longer. You would have to do a little bit of digging, but you might get away without having to buy new driveshafts
Good work on both of your videos. Dana 70 is going out on my 98 Cummins. Wondering if the axle is wider than the Dana 70, if it is much heavier, and what you had to do to connect the speedometer.
It is around 4 inches wider than the Dana 70. My speed sensor is in the tail shaft of my transmission. The sensor on rear axle was for my ABS, which I don’t have anymore. And that’s not a loss since it never worked in the first place. The AAM 11.5 is definitely heavier. Not sure by how much since I didn’t have a scale capable of weighing it, but it was quite noticeable when trying to move them around without a machine. Thanks for watching
@@FenrirFabrication thank you. So I did pick up a AAM 11.5 from a 2003 Ram. Turns out it is 1.0” wider than my Dana 70. Dana is 70.75” wheel mount surface distance, AAM is 71.75”. But 2010 up I think it’s even wider.
I didn’t know the early aam 11.5s were a bit more narrow. But I guess considering that the 9 year gap from yours and the one I used there would be some differences. I’ve put over 3k miles on it since the swap and it tows so much better. Especially backing heavy trailers in. Plus the brakes are significantly better.
What’s the measurements for the perch location on the AAM? I’m currently doing this same swap but I can’t figure out how far the perches need to be moved
I recommend just measuring off your old axle. Center pin to center pin if you want a starting point, but it’s way easier to get it mocked up loosely then set pinion angle and center things/ tack it in place like I did. Especially since you have to set pinion angle with weight on the truck.
It’s actually pretty straightforward. Once you have everything centered and mocked up, you put the weight of the truck back on its suspension then measure the angle of your transmission/transfer case. Let’s say it is -3° you then adjust the pinion on the axle with the weight still on it to be opposite of the angle coming out of your transfer case/transmission so +3°. Apologies for not doing a better job going over that aspect of the swap.
In my years of working on vehicles dodge Is the most craziest i've seen But keep up the good work.Love your videos
It’s been a great truck to me, some stuff makes zero sense though. Like the factory ball joints were welded into the lower control arms, But even with over 500k miles I would still feel comfortable, hopping in it and driving it across the country. Thanks very much for watching.
Thanks for this video. Have you seen any information on a front AAM axle swap?
Thanks for watching, funny thing I bought this rear axle in a set with the front one. Sold the front to a guy that was going to swap it in the front of his 98 ram 2500. Front axle bolted right up. Needed a new driveshaft made and adjustable control arms with a new track bar. That was apparently it. I’ve never done that swap so I can’t say from experience. I have been told that the steering is significantly better along with the track bar. Apparently fixes a lot of issues that these trucks are plagued with.
@@FenrirFabrication i’m planning on doing the front and rear on my 98 2500 some research past few days leads me to believe that it is pretty straightforward. I believe like you said the biggest thing as you need some adjustable front control arms as the mounting points are slightly different, causing the arms to need to tilt slightly to accommodate.
@@gooutsideandride overall it is a pretty straightforward swap, the rear can be done in less than a day, especially if you have a lift. And the front looks like it could actually be done even quicker, depending on what control arms you already have on the truck. That flange from the videos for my rear driveshaft has held up great to heavy towing and use for the last several thousand miles. You could likely get one for the front driveshaft, depending on if you have any lift or not, since it would make your driveshaft slightly longer. You would have to do a little bit of digging, but you might get away without having to buy new driveshafts
Good work on both of your videos. Dana 70 is going out on my 98 Cummins. Wondering if the axle is wider than the Dana 70, if it is much heavier, and what you had to do to connect the speedometer.
It is around 4 inches wider than the Dana 70. My speed sensor is in the tail shaft of my transmission. The sensor on rear axle was for my ABS, which I don’t have anymore. And that’s not a loss since it never worked in the first place. The AAM 11.5 is definitely heavier. Not sure by how much since I didn’t have a scale capable of weighing it, but it was quite noticeable when trying to move them around without a machine. Thanks for watching
@@FenrirFabrication thank you. So I did pick up a AAM 11.5 from a 2003 Ram. Turns out it is 1.0” wider than my Dana 70. Dana is 70.75” wheel mount surface distance, AAM is 71.75”. But 2010 up I think it’s even wider.
I didn’t know the early aam 11.5s were a bit more narrow. But I guess considering that the 9 year gap from yours and the one I used there would be some differences. I’ve put over 3k miles on it since the swap and it tows so much better. Especially backing heavy trailers in. Plus the brakes are significantly better.
What’s the measurements for the perch location on the AAM? I’m currently doing this same swap but I can’t figure out how far the perches need to be moved
I recommend just measuring off your old axle. Center pin to center pin if you want a starting point, but it’s way easier to get it mocked up loosely then set pinion angle and center things/ tack it in place like I did. Especially since you have to set pinion angle with weight on the truck.
What is the process for figuring out pinion angle? Thanks
It’s actually pretty straightforward. Once you have everything centered and mocked up, you put the weight of the truck back on its suspension then measure the angle of your transmission/transfer case. Let’s say it is -3° you then adjust the pinion on the axle with the weight still on it to be opposite of the angle coming out of your transfer case/transmission so +3°. Apologies for not doing a better job going over that aspect of the swap.
@FenrirFabrication Thanks for the reply 👍💯😎
Moments before disaster :( heal up well brother