Thanks for the very helpful video. To indicate the runout out on a diamond wheel with damaging the tip wrap one turn of clear adhesive tape around the wheel. After correcting the runout remove the tape and you're good to go.
Great stuff Alfred. The last shop I worked at I did some grinding, and nobody there knew it was possible to do anything in this video on a diamond wheel. Thank you for sharing, I've passed it along to them.
Excellent Alfred! I have not used a brake dresser before but I may try it now. Been using molybdenum with heavy sticking with good results but this looks a little better and will work with metal bond wheels. ATB, Robin
thanks Alfred, needed to know if this was possible, great idea about the runout, always thought perfect round was absolutely necessary, thanks again, cliff
These videos are terrific Alfred! These have really opened my eyes to the world of cutting tools; I had always thought of milling cutters and the like to be something made far away by big machines in big factories and something completely inaccessible. Now I'm seeing them as just another sort of tool that can be designed, made, and serviced, in simpler cases by myself. It's really cool to have a sense of how they're made and what the possibilities are, and even to dream of one day having a Cincinnati #2 out in the workshop :) I'll be watching every single one of these you take time to make and I'm grateful that you do :)
Would you I found a Cincinnati #2 in a surplus scrap yard years a go back in the early 80's we got it going ,never had any problems with it ours was build back early60's 😉
Well timed! Just built a brake style dresser and used it for the first time yesterday and liked the results. Also have some molybdenum coming in to test as well. Thanks for sharing.
That's badass, I didn't know that's possible.. I'm in my 40s,been trying to learn machining.i run a Centerless grinder got a 3 day training lol, then did it myself,can machine parts now to +/- .0001. On alnico 5 and 8... sometimes run a old hield id grinder and a Toyoda od.machining parts for missiles thanks great job 👍👍😎
Thank you so much Mr. Lyon, this is far and away the best and most comprehensive diamond wheel dressing guide I have seen! I really like that hand dressing "spinner," I'd like to make one myself. Any tips on what type of bearings to use that can handle the high speeds and vibration?
Thank you for the great videos on grinding so rare. Do you use the same process to shape a wheel that it's to be used for HSS? I make custom tools on a Decker S0, really appreciate your tips and passion.
Rémi Coquille if you’re using vitrified wheels they can be dressed with a single point diamond or diamond cluster mounted to the table. If you’re using a CBN wheel to do light grinding on HSS it can be dressed like I did in the video.
Not trying to be guilty of internet snobbery, but there is a technical difference between truing and dressing. The first process is not dressing, but truing. The process is called dressing interchangeably, but not correctly. That process trues the diameter of the wheel but makes the surface of the abrasive particles even with the bonding material. Dressing is the second process you showed using a stick dresser. That process exposes the diamond particles by removing some of the bonding material and clears swarf from the bonding material as well.
I always enjoy your videos and posts on the machinist group on Facebook. I worked as a tool and cutter grinder for 9 years making special cutters and sometimes I miss the satisfaction. Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you so very much for the video. You obviously know tool grinding and as you probably are well aware, there is not a lot of information out there for this art. You did an excellent job with the video. I am a toolmaker for Graco Inc. and I appreciate your making these educational videos. I am wondering about the off hand spinner you use because I would like to make something like this for myself. It looks like it is very well designed and crafted. Would you be open to sharing the design and the fabrication of this tool? Thank you again.
Delta Rogue Thank You . I really want to make more videos but it’s hard to find time or topics. The hand spinner was fairly simple. A couple of bearings and a lathe and you’re done.
I hope they get one of these where I work instead having to take out the tool from the mill we can just put one of these in the mill on the table. Thanks
This is the first video about resin diamond wheels where I walked away confident I had the right information. You answered every question I had from mounting to dialing in and dressing. Thank you!
I'm just guessing here, but it seems to me that the dressing wheel is causing crushing action in the diamond wheel bond structure, and as a result removing some of the material, and as a result it is truing up the diamond wheel, the mechanics look quite different from dressing regular wheels using diamond point/cluster, am I understanding it correctly?
jz1199 I don’t believe crushing is occurring. The aluminum oxide wheel is more abrasive than the bond resin on the diamond wheel. As the table traverses and the infeed continues the two wheels spinning together basically strips material off of both wheels. The porosity of the aluminum oxide wheel allows it to break down faster while at the same time truing the diamond wheel and exposing the diamond. The grinding of carbide fills the tiny pores of the wheel as diamond flakes fall out causing the wheel to “load” up. Dressing the wheel removes the carbide and exposes the diamond. It’s a whole different science than is involved in vitrified wheel dressing.
before we continue, please understand I'm not postulating or arguing :) I'm just trying to understand the mechanic behind the process. I called it "crushing" because the dressing wheel is rotating to a close surface speed of the diamond wheel, there is some difference of course, but still, that action to me makes me think of the grit from the dressing wheel applying pressure in spaces in between the diamond particles, and by that action it is able to damage/take away the bonding material around diamond particles, otherwise the diamond would simply cut the dressing wheel abrasive away really fast, like with the dressing stick you showed there. But since both rotate at similar rate, the diamond is not cutting, and the dressing stick is just "massaging" the bonding material away, "crushing" was just a word I came up for that action, sorry, I'm not native English speaker.
jz1199 no need for sorry. Honestly, while I’ve been doing it this way for over 30 years ( I hate guys that say that 😜) I don’t pretend to know the exact science of it. I do know that the diamond in the wheel is a different diamond than would be on a single point or a cluster diamond so it’s effect on the dressing wheel is also different. The bottom line is this is what works for me as it was shown to me and as I have shown countless others over the years. It is definitely not the only way to dress a diamond wheel.
Did you bring both centers ( Diamond wheel centre and dressing well centre) at same horizontal level.? Second thing why did you gave some angle to machine spindle head ? This will not make diameter of diamond wheel in right angle to face..
I usually put the dresser just below the center of the grinding wheel. It’s kind of a throwback to hand grinding. You’d rather the piece shoot under the the wheel than through it. I give angle so that I don’t hit the brake dresser.
First I wouldn't dismount and remount wheels like that. Super abrasive wheels very expensive. Your wasting a lot wheel that . KO Lee made 3" taper per foot adapters for there spindles that's what you should be using . Mount your wheels on 3" tpf wheel mandrels and mount them permanently for the life of the wheel . I would think twice about putting a radius or angle on a wheel as it is pretty easy to put on but a lot of dressing to remove it. I noticed you balanced your wheels a very good idea especially on the ko lee as it isn't a solid machine. I know I own a Dakota model and I balance most of my wheels. I try to keep my type 1 wheels as sharp as possible on the corner. When circle grinding to a sholder I always plunge in at the shoulder then feed off to save the corner as much as possible.
Thanks for the very helpful video. To indicate the runout out on a diamond wheel with damaging the tip wrap one turn of clear adhesive tape around the wheel. After correcting the runout remove the tape and you're good to go.
Great stuff Alfred. The last shop I worked at I did some grinding, and nobody there knew it was possible to do anything in this video on a diamond wheel. Thank you for sharing, I've passed it along to them.
Pete Brubaker Thank You 🙏🏻
Great informative video thankyou. Big thumbs up. The Brake Dresser and Hand Dresser are an eye opener too.
Excellent Alfred! I have not used a brake dresser before but I may try it now. Been using molybdenum with heavy sticking with good results but this looks a little better and will work with metal bond wheels.
ATB, Robin
thanks Alfred, needed to know if this was possible, great idea about the runout, always thought perfect round was absolutely necessary,
thanks again,
cliff
Great video! I use a single pass of scotch tape wrapped tight and neat to protect the indicator tip.
Very informative - as usual. Thanks for making all your grinding videos.
Ian Pendlebury Thank You
Absolutely brilliant.
Thank you very much
Great video all round but especially good tip at the end about a wheel with runout cutting free-r
These videos are terrific Alfred! These have really opened my eyes to the world of cutting tools; I had always thought of milling cutters and the like to be something made far away by big machines in big factories and something completely inaccessible. Now I'm seeing them as just another sort of tool that can be designed, made, and serviced, in simpler cases by myself. It's really cool to have a sense of how they're made and what the possibilities are, and even to dream of one day having a Cincinnati #2 out in the workshop :) I'll be watching every single one of these you take time to make and I'm grateful that you do :)
Steve Canny you are too kind. Please remember that there are many ways to do everything that I share.
Would you I found a Cincinnati #2 in a surplus scrap yard years a go back in the early 80's we got it going ,never had any problems with it ours was build back early60's 😉
Well timed! Just built a brake style dresser and used it for the first time yesterday and liked the results. Also have some molybdenum coming in to test as well. Thanks for sharing.
Bug Robotics awesome 👏
Do you have any details of how you built the brake dresser?
Very helpful, thank you.
That's badass, I didn't know that's possible.. I'm in my 40s,been trying to learn machining.i run a Centerless grinder got a 3 day training lol, then did it myself,can machine parts now to +/- .0001. On alnico 5 and 8... sometimes run a old hield id grinder and a Toyoda od.machining parts for missiles
thanks great job 👍👍😎
Amazing techniques
Kumar Tribhuwan Thank You
Thank you so much Mr. Lyon, this is far and away the best and most comprehensive diamond wheel dressing guide I have seen! I really like that hand dressing "spinner," I'd like to make one myself. Any tips on what type of bearings to use that can handle the high speeds and vibration?
Ben Cambier we just use standard bearings. It needs two. One at the bottom of the handle and one at the top.
Great ! and helpful!
Thank you, very helpful
Thank you for the great videos on grinding so rare. Do you use the same process to shape a wheel that it's to be used for HSS?
I make custom tools on a Decker S0, really appreciate your tips and passion.
Rémi Coquille if you’re using vitrified wheels they can be dressed with a single point diamond or diamond cluster mounted to the table. If you’re using a CBN wheel to do light grinding on HSS it can be dressed like I did in the video.
Excellent, many thanks.
Not trying to be guilty of internet snobbery, but there is a technical difference between truing and dressing. The first process is not dressing, but truing. The process is called dressing interchangeably, but not correctly. That process trues the diameter of the wheel but makes the surface of the abrasive particles even with the bonding material. Dressing is the second process you showed using a stick dresser. That process exposes the diamond particles by removing some of the bonding material and clears swarf from the bonding material as well.
Shannon Rollins sounds legit. Thanks for the clarification. 👍
I always enjoy your videos and posts on the machinist group on Facebook. I worked as a tool and cutter grinder for 9 years making special cutters and sometimes I miss the satisfaction. Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you .
Thank you so very much for the video. You obviously know tool grinding and as you probably are well aware, there is not a lot of information out there for this art. You did an excellent job with the video. I am a toolmaker for Graco Inc. and I appreciate your making these educational videos. I am wondering about the off hand spinner you use because I would like to make something like this for myself. It looks like it is very well designed and crafted. Would you be open to sharing the design and the fabrication of this tool? Thank you again.
Delta Rogue Thank You . I really want to make more videos but it’s hard to find time or topics. The hand spinner was fairly simple. A couple of bearings and a lathe and you’re done.
Use a piece of paper between the indicator tip and the wheel instead of wearing out the tip of the indicator
I hope they get one of these where I work instead having to take out the tool from the mill we can just put one of these in the mill on the table. Thanks
May I know why switch to 30degree?the sharpness of diamond wheel will effect the grinding?
What wheel is that on the brake dresser?
I would mount a grinding wheel in workhead and manually turn to dress diamond wheels
Do you use this set up for your super abrasives to? Or do you have a cnc dressing machine for those?
Jon Thielen I dress those on a Cincinnati no. 2 but a similar set up.
Great video. Never used a brake dresser. Better zip over to ebay before the hoards descend and beat met out on any deals.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco Thank You 🙏🏻
You're leading the horde, Tom!
This is the first video about resin diamond wheels where I walked away confident I had the right information. You answered every question I had from mounting to dialing in and dressing. Thank you!
Thank you amazing stuff I'm going to buy all my cutters from you guys.
Daniel Rogers wow, Thank You 🙏🏻
I'm just guessing here, but it seems to me that the dressing wheel is causing crushing action in the diamond wheel bond structure, and as a result removing some of the material, and as a result it is truing up the diamond wheel, the mechanics look quite different from dressing regular wheels using diamond point/cluster, am I understanding it correctly?
jz1199 I don’t believe crushing is occurring. The aluminum oxide wheel is more abrasive than the bond resin on the diamond wheel. As the table traverses and the infeed continues the two wheels spinning together basically strips material off of both wheels. The porosity of the aluminum oxide wheel allows it to break down faster while at the same time truing the diamond wheel and exposing the diamond. The grinding of carbide fills the tiny pores of the wheel as diamond flakes fall out causing the wheel to “load” up. Dressing the wheel removes the carbide and exposes the diamond. It’s a whole different science than is involved in vitrified wheel dressing.
before we continue, please understand I'm not postulating or arguing :) I'm just trying to understand the mechanic behind the process. I called it "crushing" because the dressing wheel is rotating to a close surface speed of the diamond wheel, there is some difference of course, but still, that action to me makes me think of the grit from the dressing wheel applying pressure in spaces in between the diamond particles, and by that action it is able to damage/take away the bonding material around diamond particles, otherwise the diamond would simply cut the dressing wheel abrasive away really fast, like with the dressing stick you showed there. But since both rotate at similar rate, the diamond is not cutting, and the dressing stick is just "massaging" the bonding material away, "crushing" was just a word I came up for that action, sorry, I'm not native English speaker.
jz1199 no need for sorry. Honestly, while I’ve been doing it this way for over 30 years ( I hate guys that say that 😜) I don’t pretend to know the exact science of it. I do know that the diamond in the wheel is a different diamond than would be on a single point or a cluster diamond so it’s effect on the dressing wheel is also different. The bottom line is this is what works for me as it was shown to me and as I have shown countless others over the years. It is definitely not the only way to dress a diamond wheel.
Did you bring both centers ( Diamond wheel centre and dressing well centre) at same horizontal level.?
Second thing why did you gave some angle to machine spindle head ?
This will not make diameter of diamond wheel in right angle to face..
I usually put the dresser just below the center of the grinding wheel. It’s kind of a throwback to hand grinding. You’d rather the piece shoot under the the wheel than through it. I give angle so that I don’t hit the brake dresser.
i need a super hard dressing stick (.375 x 2) for under $200. any suggestions ?
dirtworm666 try a Norton Norbide stick
Hi we have this , My email: alan.wang@moresuperhard.com
Please let me draser name
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
First I wouldn't dismount and remount wheels like
that. Super abrasive wheels very expensive. Your wasting a lot wheel that . KO Lee made 3" taper per foot adapters for there spindles that's what you should be using . Mount your wheels on 3" tpf wheel mandrels and mount them permanently for the life of the wheel . I would think twice about putting a radius or angle on a wheel as it is pretty easy to put on but a lot of dressing to remove it. I noticed you balanced your wheels a very good idea especially on the ko lee as it isn't a solid machine. I know I own a
Dakota model and I balance most of my wheels. I try to keep my type 1 wheels as sharp as possible on the corner.
When circle grinding to a sholder I always plunge in at the shoulder then feed off to save the corner as much as possible.
Hold a piece of paper between the tip and wheel
slow the wheel down for better results I used a molly piece does a better job.
Ok