And we didn't break anything!! Thats always a good outing. I really wanna sit and talk with you about clutches since I have been away from it when I am ready.. great videos Ed
That was a good video i learned a lot thanks. i have a 1966 corvette that i would like to go racing with but i have health problems maybe one day i will get there.
Very cool intro!! Great video. Congrats on the performance at the strip. Great information. No broken parts is a bonus. Look forward to the next video. Be safe and stay well.
I owned one of those black bricks. I gave it to a subcontractor. His daughter races it now. I also street raced a 91 GT. Some Hollywood dude payed cash for that one. My 2015 Ecoboost is just about ready to go pro. See you at Gimley soon.
If I can offer some advice....Use this formula. Live by it. 1320 ÷ MPH = Optimum ET. Applies to race cars. Your (3) runs using formula equate to 11.71, 11.76, 11.68. This signifies you're losing .200 on every pass. This is due to clutch and / or suspension tuning. This formula is driven by your weight, atmosphere conditions & HP. More tuning under changes the hood & atmospheric changes will either increase or decrease the MPH. If you use this as a standard, you can tell if your car is working right. The goal is to match the formula. A really good race car will beat the formula (faster ET than MPH indicates). You have a major compromise here (and I get it). You are shifting with the clutch (yes I know what the rulebook says). Using the clutch REQUIRES extra base pressure adjustment; to the point you have more BP than optimal, primarily on the launch. Your forced into a corner of striving for that perfect launch but if you do, you have excessive slippage down track. I have a Jerico clutch trans. Even though I shift it without the clutch, I still loose clutch tune because the RPM will “flare up” on the shifts. There’s no way around it other than buying the $8,000 transmission! Good videos and I will subscribe. And good luck on the ET destination!
It's even simpler than that. The car used to beat "the formula" by quite a bit when it was properly geared, with a class legal engine. For the street now, I went from 5.14 to 4.11 gears, and an engine that makes a bit more power (at a higher RPM) but less torque, so the 60 ft and ET are suffering accordingly. Thanks for watching.
Am I on the right track to think that counterweight will aid in the clutch getting back in to full lock after blipping the clutch at the shifts? I am currently running a Gforce 101A with a Ram Sintered iron single disc. No data logger, but have been getting the car to pick up with just pen and paper notes. 355” sbc, 55 Chevrolet, 2950 total weight. 29.5x10.5 tire. 3.5 turns on yellow springs. 16 grams total counter weight. Quickest to date, 10.45@128. Quickest 1/8 6.52@103. Quickest 60’ 1.37. Great info on this channel!
Thanks. That's a great question. The clutch locks up as the RPM is increased, at a rate I'm happy with, so I think the amount of counterweight is acceptable. Is it "ideal"? Probably not, but in my case the static clamping force is WAY easier to adjust than the counterweight (I don't have a "window" in my scattershield).
I rewatched the 2nd and 3rd launches in slow motion, and I can see I need more compression in the rear shocks (I only have single adjustables). The slicks initially hit hard, but then rebound too much and unload and spin.
I think a lot of that funky data in the first .5 seconds is your hitting the tire to hard. Have you plotted out your antisquat? If not I’d do that next and see where it’s at. You could also tighten up your extension but I always try and get the suspension close so the shock doesn’t have to do all the work.
Solid advice, thanks. I did plot the IC years ago, and it's not in a bad place. The shocks are maxed out on rebound tightness, and are only single adjustable. Watching slo-mo video, I can see it hits the tires a bit too hard, then they bounce and it unloads the tires from not having enough compression damping. I really need to buy better shocks...
As long as you don't break first gear again the clutch adjustment is probably getting closer to the target. Does driving through the clutch take measurable material from the disc?
And we didn't break anything!! Thats always a good outing. I really wanna sit and talk with you about clutches since I have been away from it when I am ready.. great videos Ed
That was very interesting Ed. I didn't realize the science to clutches until your videos.
That was a good video i learned a lot thanks. i have a 1966 corvette that i would like to go racing with but i have health problems maybe one day i will get there.
Very cool intro!! Great video. Congrats on the performance at the strip. Great information. No broken parts is a bonus. Look forward to the next video. Be safe and stay well.
Sticky tires and track compound are great at breaking stuff.
great job! glad the car performed well. lots of good clutch tuning info
I owned one of those black bricks. I gave it to a subcontractor. His daughter races it now. I also street raced a 91 GT. Some Hollywood dude payed cash for that one. My 2015 Ecoboost is just about ready to go pro. See you at Gimley soon.
Looked like a good day to me. Can't say I've ever seen anyone launch a Monster Tach out of it's bracket! 😆
Absolutely great content! I learned a lot from this video. It looks like your car is running really well.
Watching you row the gears is incredible!
Thanks. It's therapeutic for me.
Well done mate, the car launches so well and if you can take it home in one piece, that's always a win. Hope you did well at Drag Week.
Thanks. Drag Week didn't go so well...there's a video for that too.
If I can offer some advice....Use this formula. Live by it. 1320 ÷ MPH = Optimum ET. Applies to race cars. Your (3) runs using formula equate to 11.71, 11.76, 11.68. This signifies you're losing .200 on every pass. This is due to clutch and / or suspension tuning. This formula is driven by your weight, atmosphere conditions & HP. More tuning under changes the hood & atmospheric changes will either increase or decrease the MPH. If you use this as a standard, you can tell if your car is working right. The goal is to match the formula. A really good race car will beat the formula (faster ET than MPH indicates). You have a major compromise here (and I get it). You are shifting with the clutch (yes I know what the rulebook says). Using the clutch REQUIRES extra base pressure adjustment; to the point you have more BP than optimal, primarily on the launch. Your forced into a corner of striving for that perfect launch but if you do, you have excessive slippage down track. I have a Jerico clutch trans. Even though I shift it without the clutch, I still loose clutch tune because the RPM will “flare up” on the shifts. There’s no way around it other than buying the $8,000 transmission! Good videos and I will subscribe. And good luck on the ET destination!
It's even simpler than that. The car used to beat "the formula" by quite a bit when it was properly geared, with a class legal engine. For the street now, I went from 5.14 to 4.11 gears, and an engine that makes a bit more power (at a higher RPM) but less torque, so the 60 ft and ET are suffering accordingly. Thanks for watching.
Am I on the right track to think that counterweight will aid in the clutch getting back in to full lock after blipping the clutch at the shifts? I am currently running a Gforce 101A with a Ram Sintered iron single disc. No data logger, but have been getting the car to pick up with just pen and paper notes. 355” sbc, 55 Chevrolet, 2950 total weight. 29.5x10.5 tire. 3.5 turns on yellow springs. 16 grams total counter weight. Quickest to date, 10.45@128. Quickest 1/8 6.52@103. Quickest 60’ 1.37. Great info on this channel!
Looks like a win win day! Great information how do you know that the counter weight is ideal?
Thanks. That's a great question. The clutch locks up as the RPM is increased, at a rate I'm happy with, so I think the amount of counterweight is acceptable. Is it "ideal"? Probably not, but in my case the static clamping force is WAY easier to adjust than the counterweight (I don't have a "window" in my scattershield).
Congrats on breakdown free race weekend ! You deserved it with your hard work and perseverance
Good vid Buddy
Seems like its dialed in fairly decent! Good Work
Right on t5 for life
LOL, the life of a T5 isn't long. I run a Doug Nash race 5 speed trans.
I bet if you had front shock sensors you would see a correlation between the front coming down and the rear speed spiking.
I rewatched the 2nd and 3rd launches in slow motion, and I can see I need more compression in the rear shocks (I only have single adjustables). The slicks initially hit hard, but then rebound too much and unload and spin.
Cool channel
Thanks!
@@The_Performance_Laboratory you're a bad ass
Video paused. It's going to go well except for another tweak of the clutch. After that it ends well.
I think a lot of that funky data in the first .5 seconds is your hitting the tire to hard. Have you plotted out your antisquat? If not I’d do that next and see where it’s at. You could also tighten up your extension but I always try and get the suspension close so the shock doesn’t have to do all the work.
Solid advice, thanks. I did plot the IC years ago, and it's not in a bad place. The shocks are maxed out on rebound tightness, and are only single adjustable. Watching slo-mo video, I can see it hits the tires a bit too hard, then they bounce and it unloads the tires from not having enough compression damping. I really need to buy better shocks...
Yeah definitely could be shocks. What do you have for shocks?
@@raymondleathers5921Konis from the Ford Motorsport catalogue back in 1987!
Oh boy, you definitely need an upgrade there 😆
Nice ride. Where you from and what track is this
Interlake Dragway in Gimli Manitoba. Famous from the "Gimli Glider" incident.
Can you tell me why you turn the motor off over the line? Rather than just brake or put the clutch in?
Stock oil pan, and no windage tray, so oil pressure sometimes drops under heavy braking.
Awesome launches!
As long as you don't break first gear again the clutch adjustment is probably getting closer to the target. Does driving through the clutch take measurable material from the disc?
Yes, but this setup is designed for wear. I have shims under the pressure plate that can be removed as necessary to accommodate disc wear.
use the force ED !!! LOOK GOOD
Someone told me that you can't speed shift a dual disc clutch. Is this true?
It's not impossible, but it certainly gets more difficult (and destructive) as the clutch disc inertia increases.