I’m definitely excited about the future forging videos. I first met you through your black smithing and I’m happy you’re going to make some content including that.
It's all down to personal preference, use and environment. I like Sandvik and N690 Stainless, they hold an edge long enough, sharpen easily and the rust resistance is useful in the rain and by the sea. When there's going to be more whittling, processing wood that day I prefer a nice bit of carbon steel though the Sandvik and N690 has never let me down for wood working either.
As a knifemaker I like a scandi grind and synthetic handle materials for bushcraft knives. Well, I use synthetics for all my knives. More stable and durable than wood. But the scandi in my opinion is a great grind for wood carving, is easy to sharpen, and holds a razor edge. I made a couple kephart knives in January and I really liked em.
synthetic handles can be wonderful when you don't need something that is self-sustainable. wood handles are better if you don't have the option of replacing the handle or handscales with synthetics, such as if you're in the woods for extended periods of time. both have their place and which decision you go with depends on what you want in your knife. i'm sure you already know this, i'm just putting this here for others who may not know this to see.
@@Louiscare I’ve tested G10 and micarta and they’re extremely durable. If the knife is put under enough stress to severely damage the handle material, chances are the epoxy or even the blade will have failed before the handle material.
@@mulepowerforge of course. I was just replying to @southern_pride0 as they were saying synthetic is worse bc you cant replace them. But truth is you can replace them if need be, and as you said they are more durable so you probably won't need to
@@southern.pride0I can replace a synthetic with a synthetic. I've done it . Just because I wanted another color. Chances are synthetic scales will never need to be replaced. If the knife snaps , it will not be in the handle with a full tang. G10 or Mircarta handles are pretty much indestructible.
Scandi grind is #1 😎👍👍 Am on the fence about getting a Helle...For a long time🤣... Tops as well...but paying for a name keeps from pulling the trigger. Prefer to support real smiths.😎👍👍 Excellent video...as usual 👍👍 😎✌👍❤🖖
Thanks! I prefer supporting real smiths and craftsmen too. Thats why I had a small business knife maker make these ones here in North America, instead of outsourcing to China for the cheapest factory made blades possible. The price difference is definitely worth supporting local makers.
I've made several knives and bought a few too. I need to fire up the forge again this winter. Your knife is very similar to a Condor Bushlore , but a bit smaller. 1090 steel . I bought a blank from them years ago and put a desert ironwood handle on it. It's a very nice knife. You blade has almost has the taper as a Scandi just rounded. I know it can be easy it to sharpen . You'll hardly ever need to really sharpen it. Strop it on your belt every now and then. Imho it's better than a Scani for fast sharpening.
As a knife nerd I have 2 things to add 1. Make sure your knife doesn't have a secondary bevel, the angle the blade should meet the edge without stepping down. If it has a secondary bevel, you'll be hard pressed to sharpen it out in the bush 2. Steal quality matters! Stainless may be pretty, but I recommend D2 steal, it's hard and used to make hammers. While it may be harder to get hair popping sharp, it will retain that edge far longer then even something like 420 or, 1075. 👍
@@jamesross1339 I like CRKT knives if your on a budget. They're nothing flashy, but they are well built and the Steele used is a step up from Chinese stainless. For my personal carry I use a Kershaw cannonball assisted opener. The things an absolute tank, and made from D2 Steele (which is what they make hammers out of). I work at an oil refenery and have put this thing through hell and back and it's never let me down once 👍
Thank you for your video. I really like the knife you made and the knife you designed. Both the scandi and secondary bevel are excellent. Kinda depends on what you like. I have many knives and many Bushcraft knives. My kinda go to is a Morakniv light my fire knife. It has a 90 degree spine and ferro rod. It does have a scandi grind and is 3/32 thick. It has sstainless 4 blade but sharpens easily. I use it in our survival classes and is very easy to use for everyone that tries it. I also have a Sheffield knife more like a parang design. Not expensive but has do all I've required and easy to sharpen. I put a 90 degree spine on it. It has an 8"x1/8 blade. I love it fo batoning and some chopping but it takes off knots on branches an such. One more that needs mentioning is a blade a British knife maker bushcrafter, Bison Bushcraft, I purchased. A-1 steel, scandi grind, 90 degree spine. I carry it on my survival pack. He and a group came to Colorado to have a walk about on our Uncompahgre Plateau. They stayed at our tipi camp. Sorry this got long. Thanks again.
The best fixed blade belt knife I own is the Camillus Camp 9.5" Knife, 4.5" Drop-Point Fixed Blade. I've had it for just over 8 years. I use it for everything from hunting, fishing, camping, hiking , bushcraft, batoning wood, wood carving and even leatherworking, It's also my EDC. I do have a good collection of other higher quality fixed blade knives, it's just that this one happens to be my favorite. I will say my second favorite is actually an Old Hickory kitchen knife, the same as the explorers and frontiersman used to carry, holds an edge well enough, I mostly like the historical aspect of it.
I CARRY SEVERAL KNIVES IN DIFFERENT PLACES. TAUGHT MY BOYS AND FRIENDS TO DO THE SAME. I DON'T USE EVERY ONE EVERY TIME. SAME WITH FIRE MAKING 🔥 ABILITIES.
Hey great video, I would love to see some forging videos! I have been forging for a couple years now but I have not been able to get a tomahawk to forge weld all of the way! Keep up the great videos!
My main go to bushcrafting and green woodworking knives are a cleaver style heavy full tang machete with a 2mm wide spine I use for 75% of the heavy work, a marline spike knife from rough rider as my EDC, and a cheap Walmart style cleaver that came with a locking scabbard that doubles as a small hachet/ camp task knife. If I need to do any other type of carving, I suppliment my load out with a beavercraft whittling knife.
- +-6 inces 15cm - 21 degrees edge angle. Grind is whatever you prefer - Tip should be able to do narrow turning cuts (i would carry separate knife for meat processing). - Good sheath
You make some interesting points in your video. Firstly, I enjoyed your comment about having more than just one knife, given the wide range of jobs needing to be done in the outdoors. However, one comment I do disagree with is your preference for an axe/tomahawk over a saw. For me, a good folding saw like a Silky (Gomboy or Bigboy, depending) is an absolute necessity. No other tool, short of a chain saw, can do the job of a saw, ie cross-cutting wood! Also, the Silky is lighter and needs far less energy to perform the same job. Importantly, the end product is cleaner, neater and more useful (ie 90 deg end). Caveat: granted an axe or tomahawk are more fun to use ( and infinitely more dangerous!). I thought I'd share what I regard as a good outdoors set-up: Large knife: here I'd not be without my Cold Steel Trail Master (San Mai III version). Superb knife and will work as well as most light axes or tomahawks. This will deal with the heavy work. Belt/bushcraft knife: here I propose the new (and updated) Victorinox Venture Pro knife. The package is packed with very useful features and is designed primarily for the bushcrafting tasks you alluded to. In particular its tip is ideally suited for skinning, even though this wasn't really a design parameter. Folder: The Victorinox Hercules or the Ranger Grip 79 are two that would be on my list. One (the Hercules) has more tools, but the 79 has slightly bigger tools, so it depends on one's needs. I would not consider pliers-based multi-tools, as I do not see any real need for a full size pliers. Extra: no outdoors kit of mine would be without aa small. light paring knife! The one I use (3 actually) is the Victorinox paring knife. At 21 grams it has no impact in the weight dept, but a huge impact in the usefulness dept! Of course, as I said above there will ALWAYS be a Silky in the pack as well. Now, sometimes one goes on shorter less demanding outings and it might be good to consider a "light carry" option: Belt knife: the obvious choice is the Cold Steel SRK (in CPM3V and sabre grind). This knife was originally designed for exactly this function, and is still a very strong seller. Folder: my venerable companion of 30 years or so is the Victorinox Swiss Champ! Extra: I would probably slip a V'nox paring knife in somewhere! ;-) For sawing tasks I'd have the little (but vey effective) saw on the SAK. If I was expecting tough conditions, one could carry a Silky Pocketboy in a pack pocket. I'd be happy to share ideas if you'd like to respond. Cheers mate!
Wood changes shape over time. Is why we knife people steer away from it. Though a stabilized wood is plenty fine. Stainless comments show how little you keep in touch with the metals market. You are a real bush-crafter, so respect brother. I’d rather have your knowledge than mine.
When Im out and about I generally carry 3 knives a sak, rubber handle buck knife and a asain bill hook type chopper with a 6 inch handle so I can choke up or back to chop and it also a great draw knife.
I’m getting there… I have a pile of high Alloy super steels in folding blades… then some M-390 and the like in fixed blades… My A2 and 52100 is just more friendly to use when it comes sharpening time…
I carry both a regular and a small kukri, unless im building a wooden shelter when I carry a small axe just because its just easier to use for building.
Interesting content Sage.You give a lot of info, covering all the bases. My first time watching the channel, so I’ll be careful with my comment.i think your wife got the good knife. See ya bud.
Lemme correct you bud. Those grooves there on the back of that bowie knife would be what is cunningly called in the knife community as a "Thumb grooves" or "Thumb grip". Mostly found on most knives over 6 inches in blade length, and commonly used for choke ups on the handle for further knife control, or for dragging your finger across for knife tosses.
I got a foremen knife it’s perfect for me to skin animals I use the serated side for cutting bone and making broth when I’m done skinning and the seratings with enough force have helped a lot with getting fascia off and quite a bit with fleshing a foremen knife is a good cheap bushcraft knife if your one a budget I’ve skinned 50 animals and it’s only needed to be sharpened once
Sears > Kephart. Nessmuk Trio all the way. Though I prefer a much more subtle hump on the Nessmuk. I agree most super steels are stupid, but cruwear and magnacut are pretty easy to touch up or sharpen. I really don't notice the difference in touching up magnacut compared to 1095, but I have to do it far less often. Personally, I hate the uni-tasker scandi grind. If you're sitting around whittling, great, but anyone with skill can do the same notches or tasks with a high saber or flat grind and have it be much more useful in all other areas.
Do you sell just the blade? I want to make my own handle on using mountain mahogany. I am thinking of putting on an activity for others on how to add a handle, and make a sheath, sharpening... etc.
Nice! Egg tanning rabbit hides is tricky. They have a lot of membrane that often doesn’t get removed well enough for the solution to penetrate. Tannins from bark go right through it and loosen up those membranes
Very good video. You have a handle on good knife qualities and use. Two things we do not agree on…battoning…I don’t do it, think it is not a good idea, my opinion… your knife, do as you please… the other thing… lanyards… I like them, for different reasons, but it is not a good idea to keep a blade lashed to your wrist… when it comes loose from your grip, you will get cut… not always… but it will happen. I’ve hauled many men to the ER because of this… but… again, do as you wish with your blade… these are my opinions only… I appreciate your videos… thank you
Folding knives especially if cheap i feel are more of a danger than a fixed blade knife, Last thing you want in a survival situation is half your fingers sliced through while trying to build a shelter.
A knife is a piece of steel/metal that is sharp enough to do what you need to do. Back in the 80's when I taught Wilderness Survival, and talked about knife use. The term "Bushcraft" was not a thing. Now of course if you want a "Bushcraft" knife you will pay a lot of money. Unless you just buy a good knife to do Knife jobs. I do not chop or split wood with most knives. I will do it with a Khukuri. Of which I own 5. I like the Mora HD Companion. Yes, I own one.
Man, the best knife for all that that Ive found is a SWISS ARMY KNIFE. The idea of 1 knife doing everything, not a reality, more a dream. Mora is a great bushcraft knife, but sucks at camp chores. SAK is great at camp chores, good at bushcraft, sucks for batoning and skinning. Ka-Bar is great for fighting off Martian aliens and werewolves, sucks at carving wood.
Risking the wrath of the good gentlemen that commented here, i'm leaning myself out of the window and say, i don't like scandi grind knives much for bushcraft. I really like a flat grind with a secondary bevel, it's much more versatile to me.
Yep, that’ll invoke the ire of every bushcraft keyboard warrior. Whatever works best for you is what you should use, obviously. Glad you know what works!
every steel is a stainless steel and a carbon steel glazing over those terms doesnt explain what specific element percentage or steel ur talking about even carbon steels have plenty of chromium in them... if you are talking HRC hardness yes its harder to sharpen the hard steels but they also hold a better edge so softer and harder steel both work as long as they arent brittle and chip on u with sh1tty grains. the quality of the craftsmanship matters more.
I have never understood why so called "bushcrafters" are all about butchering poor animals. However, they have no clue about edible or useful plants... poor knowledge!
chinese and asian have the best and sharpest blades but they sell the cheap crappy ones to the western consumers cause yall still pay for them for some reason 🤷
Serrated edges get in the way more often than not and limit your "good" cutting edge by a significant margin. They're also a pain to sharpen and need special tools, making field maintenance on them difficult and adding weight to your loadout.
Not all steels. Actual Steel, is iron heated over coat or charcoal. As the iron heats up, the Iron Lattice opens up, and traps carbon from the coal or charcoal. That is plain simple steel. Yes a lot of steel is allowed, but not all.
I do agree that simple carbon steel is not an alloy, and is still different than iron, but heating over coals specifically in the presence of oxygen actually removes some carbon content over time. Not much, but some. Depends on how long it’s done and surface area of the steel exposed to oxygen at the right temp. In an anaerobic environment, yes the steel takes in more carbon from surrounding materials if the temp is right. This is called carburization, and any oxygen will cause oxidization and prevent the steel from taking in that carbon.
Technically, all steel is an alloy. Plain carbon steel is made of iron & carbon…. Two elements. So, in a practical sense, plain carbon steel is generally only considered an alloy after the addition of anything else… it’s a naming conundrum
Stainless steels can be fantastic, the only problem with them is they tend to be much harder to hear treat properly. But a good, properly heat treated stainless knife will be one of the best you've ever handled. Assuming the proper stainless alloy of course.
Good video buddy, i remember teaching you sandpaper sharpening with your wife's knife! Thanks for always putting out good content!
Thanks for always commenting bro! Always appreciate your thoughts. Thanks again for teaching me scandi grind sharpening all those years ago.
I knew my sandpaper technique was working I just wasn't sure!
I’m definitely excited about the future forging videos. I first met you through your black smithing and I’m happy you’re going to make some content including that.
Mora Garberg is the best I have ever purchased and used. Thanks for the video presentation.
Same, It’s my favorite tool.
I agree with the Garberg as well
Anyone who can actually use a knife, can tell that is a superb knife you’ve made there. Great design. Do it all design. Well done.
It's all down to personal preference, use and environment. I like Sandvik and N690 Stainless, they hold an edge long enough, sharpen easily and the rust resistance is useful in the rain and by the sea. When there's going to be more whittling, processing wood that day I prefer a nice bit of carbon steel though the Sandvik and N690 has never let me down for wood working either.
I always struggle with choosing a good knife unless it's something for the kitchen lol. This was really useful
Another wonderful video sir. 👍👍
As a knifemaker I like a scandi grind and synthetic handle materials for bushcraft knives. Well, I use synthetics for all my knives. More stable and durable than wood. But the scandi in my opinion is a great grind for wood carving, is easy to sharpen, and holds a razor edge. I made a couple kephart knives in January and I really liked em.
synthetic handles can be wonderful when you don't need something that is self-sustainable.
wood handles are better if you don't have the option of replacing the handle or handscales with synthetics, such as if you're in the woods for extended periods of time.
both have their place and which decision you go with depends on what you want in your knife.
i'm sure you already know this, i'm just putting this here for others who may not know this to see.
@@southern.pride0 I mean you can replace synthetic with natural if they break
@@Louiscare I’ve tested G10 and micarta and they’re extremely durable. If the knife is put under enough stress to severely damage the handle material, chances are the epoxy or even the blade will have failed before the handle material.
@@mulepowerforge of course. I was just replying to @southern_pride0 as they were saying synthetic is worse bc you cant replace them. But truth is you can replace them if need be, and as you said they are more durable so you probably won't need to
@@southern.pride0I can replace a synthetic with a synthetic. I've done it . Just because I wanted another color. Chances are synthetic scales will never need to be replaced. If the knife snaps , it will not be in the handle with a full tang. G10 or Mircarta handles are pretty much indestructible.
now this is the type of content I like
Scandi grind is #1 😎👍👍
Am on the fence about getting a Helle...For a long time🤣...
Tops as well...but paying for a name keeps from pulling the trigger.
Prefer to support real smiths.😎👍👍
Excellent video...as usual 👍👍
😎✌👍❤🖖
Thanks! I prefer supporting real smiths and craftsmen too. Thats why I had a small business knife maker make these ones here in North America, instead of outsourcing to China for the cheapest factory made blades possible. The price difference is definitely worth supporting local makers.
My Mora Garberg is probably my favorite tool. And I have a lot of favorite tools.
I've made several knives and bought a few too. I need to fire up the forge again this winter. Your knife is very similar to a Condor Bushlore , but a bit smaller. 1090 steel .
I bought a blank from them years ago and put a desert ironwood handle on it. It's a very nice knife. You blade has almost has the taper as a Scandi just rounded. I know it can be easy it to sharpen . You'll hardly ever need to really sharpen it. Strop it on your belt every now and then. Imho it's better than a Scani for fast sharpening.
As a knife nerd I have 2 things to add
1. Make sure your knife doesn't have a secondary bevel, the angle the blade should meet the edge without stepping down. If it has a secondary bevel, you'll be hard pressed to sharpen it out in the bush
2. Steal quality matters! Stainless may be pretty, but I recommend D2 steal, it's hard and used to make hammers. While it may be harder to get hair popping sharp, it will retain that edge far longer then even something like 420 or, 1075. 👍
So what should I get
@@jamesross1339 I like CRKT knives if your on a budget. They're nothing flashy, but they are well built and the Steele used is a step up from Chinese stainless.
For my personal carry I use a Kershaw cannonball assisted opener. The things an absolute tank, and made from D2 Steele (which is what they make hammers out of). I work at an oil refenery and have put this thing through hell and back and it's never let me down once 👍
Thank you for your video. I really like the knife you made and the knife you designed. Both the scandi and secondary bevel are excellent. Kinda depends on what you like. I have many knives and many Bushcraft knives. My kinda go to is a Morakniv light my fire knife. It has a 90 degree spine and ferro rod. It does have a scandi grind and is 3/32 thick. It has sstainless 4 blade but sharpens easily. I use it in our survival classes and is very easy to use for everyone that tries it. I also have a Sheffield knife more like a parang design. Not expensive but has do all I've required and easy to sharpen. I put a 90 degree spine on it. It has an 8"x1/8 blade. I love it fo batoning and some chopping but it takes off knots on branches an such. One more that needs mentioning is a blade a British knife maker bushcrafter, Bison Bushcraft, I purchased. A-1 steel, scandi grind, 90 degree spine. I carry it on my survival pack. He and a group came to Colorado to have a walk about on our Uncompahgre Plateau. They stayed at our tipi camp. Sorry this got long.
Thanks again.
The best fixed blade belt knife I own is the Camillus Camp 9.5" Knife, 4.5" Drop-Point Fixed Blade. I've had it for just over 8 years. I use it for everything from hunting, fishing, camping, hiking , bushcraft, batoning wood, wood carving and even leatherworking, It's also my EDC. I do have a good collection of other higher quality fixed blade knives, it's just that this one happens to be my favorite. I will say my second favorite is actually an Old Hickory kitchen knife, the same as the explorers and frontiersman used to carry, holds an edge well enough, I mostly like the historical aspect of it.
I CARRY SEVERAL KNIVES IN DIFFERENT PLACES. TAUGHT MY BOYS AND FRIENDS TO DO THE SAME. I DON'T USE EVERY ONE EVERY TIME. SAME WITH FIRE MAKING 🔥 ABILITIES.
Thank You 👍
10:19 That looks like some of Dan's work! What a small world 😊
Hey great video, I would love to see some forging videos! I have been forging for a couple years now but I have not been able to get a tomahawk to forge weld all of the way! Keep up the great videos!
My main go to bushcrafting and green woodworking knives are a cleaver style heavy full tang machete with a 2mm wide spine I use for 75% of the heavy work, a marline spike knife from rough rider as my EDC, and a cheap Walmart style cleaver that came with a locking scabbard that doubles as a small hachet/ camp task knife. If I need to do any other type of carving, I suppliment my load out with a beavercraft whittling knife.
Thanks, nice information 😊
- +-6 inces 15cm
- 21 degrees edge angle. Grind is whatever you prefer
- Tip should be able to do narrow turning cuts (i would carry separate knife for meat processing).
- Good sheath
You make some interesting points in your video.
Firstly, I enjoyed your comment about having more than just one knife, given the wide range of jobs needing to be done in the outdoors.
However, one comment I do disagree with is your preference for an axe/tomahawk over a saw. For me, a good folding saw like a Silky (Gomboy or Bigboy, depending) is an absolute necessity. No other tool, short of a chain saw, can do the job of a saw, ie cross-cutting wood! Also, the Silky is lighter and needs far less energy to perform the same job. Importantly, the end product is cleaner, neater and more useful (ie 90 deg end). Caveat: granted an axe or tomahawk are more fun to use ( and infinitely more dangerous!).
I thought I'd share what I regard as a good outdoors set-up:
Large knife: here I'd not be without my Cold Steel Trail Master (San Mai III version). Superb knife and will work as well as most light axes or tomahawks. This will deal with the heavy work.
Belt/bushcraft knife: here I propose the new (and updated) Victorinox Venture Pro knife. The package is packed with very useful features and is designed primarily for the bushcrafting tasks you alluded to. In particular its tip is ideally suited for skinning, even though this wasn't really a design parameter.
Folder: The Victorinox Hercules or the Ranger Grip 79 are two that would be on my list. One (the Hercules) has more tools, but the 79 has slightly bigger tools, so it depends on one's needs. I would not consider pliers-based multi-tools, as I do not see any real need for a full size pliers.
Extra: no outdoors kit of mine would be without aa small. light paring knife! The one I use (3 actually) is the Victorinox paring knife. At 21 grams it has no impact in the weight dept, but a huge impact in the usefulness dept!
Of course, as I said above there will ALWAYS be a Silky in the pack as well.
Now, sometimes one goes on shorter less demanding outings and it might be good to consider a "light carry" option:
Belt knife: the obvious choice is the Cold Steel SRK (in CPM3V and sabre grind). This knife was originally designed for exactly this function, and is still a very strong seller.
Folder: my venerable companion of 30 years or so is the Victorinox Swiss Champ!
Extra: I would probably slip a V'nox paring knife in somewhere! ;-)
For sawing tasks I'd have the little (but vey effective) saw on the SAK. If I was expecting tough conditions, one could carry a Silky Pocketboy in a pack pocket.
I'd be happy to share ideas if you'd like to respond.
Cheers mate!
Wood changes shape over time. Is why we knife people steer away from it. Though a stabilized wood is plenty fine. Stainless comments show how little you keep in touch with the metals market. You are a real bush-crafter, so respect brother. I’d rather have your knowledge than mine.
*outdoor knowledge, is all I meant
When Im out and about I generally carry 3 knives a sak, rubber handle buck knife and a asain bill hook type chopper with a 6 inch handle so I can choke up or back to chop and it also a great draw knife.
the best knife in any situation is the one you have on u. don't buy a knife you won't or don't carry. it is useless
What he said. 👍.
Why I have a lot of knives 😂
Good
Thank you!! 🔪
It’s crazy that I have the same camo buck knife as you
I’m getting there… I have a pile of high Alloy super steels in folding blades… then some M-390 and the like in fixed blades… My A2 and 52100 is just more friendly to use when it comes sharpening time…
The best bush knife is the one you have with you🎉❤
I carry both a regular and a small kukri, unless im building a wooden shelter when I carry a small axe just because its just easier to use for building.
Interesting content Sage.You give a lot of info, covering all the bases. My first time watching the channel, so I’ll be careful with my comment.i think your wife got the good knife. See ya bud.
Good video. Good info. TY
Lemme correct you bud. Those grooves there on the back of that bowie knife would be what is cunningly called in the knife community as a "Thumb grooves" or "Thumb grip". Mostly found on most knives over 6 inches in blade length, and commonly used for choke ups on the handle for further knife control, or for dragging your finger across for knife tosses.
What we all can take from this is sharp pointy metal sticks of any quality are a good tool for bushcraft
Curious if you just sharpen the knife every time it’s dull or hone it several times before sharpening.
Use a buffer wheel
I got a foremen knife it’s perfect for me to skin animals I use the serated side for cutting bone and making broth when I’m done skinning and the seratings with enough force have helped a lot with getting fascia off and quite a bit with fleshing a foremen knife is a good cheap bushcraft knife if your one a budget I’ve skinned 50 animals and it’s only needed to be sharpened once
Bushcraft should be about making all of your tools and it's fun to Forge a knife knowing you made it.
👍 Good content.
Thanks 👍
Sears > Kephart. Nessmuk Trio all the way. Though I prefer a much more subtle hump on the Nessmuk. I agree most super steels are stupid, but cruwear and magnacut are pretty easy to touch up or sharpen. I really don't notice the difference in touching up magnacut compared to 1095, but I have to do it far less often. Personally, I hate the uni-tasker scandi grind. If you're sitting around whittling, great, but anyone with skill can do the same notches or tasks with a high saber or flat grind and have it be much more useful in all other areas.
Great video Bro! Anybody who uses a knife outside, knows why a lanyard hole is necessary. I use orange paracord on mine. Subbed.
Orange para cord, high vis. Smart
How is a soft stone useful for sharpening hardened steel?
Is the leather you make wet-moldable? I didn’t know that resulted from bark tanning.
Ontario RTAK II
Do you sell just the blade? I want to make my own handle on using mountain mahogany. I am thinking of putting on an activity for others on how to add a handle, and make a sheath, sharpening... etc.
Sorry, I don't sell just the blades. Only finished products
you can always grind off the pins i guess
Bro I love your videos and tik tok i Egg tanned my rabbit hide didnt do so well im gonna bark tan next time
Nice! Egg tanning rabbit hides is tricky. They have a lot of membrane that often doesn’t get removed well enough for the solution to penetrate. Tannins from bark go right through it and loosen up those membranes
Can I have a bush craft knife🥺@@sagesmokesurvival
For less than $10 , get a MORA 511 from Chicago Knife Works.
Very good video. You have a handle on good knife qualities and use. Two things we do not agree on…battoning…I don’t do it, think it is not a good idea, my opinion… your knife, do as you please… the other thing… lanyards… I like them, for different reasons, but it is not a good idea to keep a blade lashed to your wrist… when it comes loose from your grip, you will get cut… not always… but it will happen. I’ve hauled many men to the ER because of this… but… again, do as you wish with your blade… these are my opinions only… I appreciate your videos… thank you
Is a frosts knife good knife
Try Japanese knife very very sharp or saws for wood
Folding knives especially if cheap i feel are more of a danger than a fixed blade knife, Last thing you want in a survival situation is half your fingers sliced through while trying to build a shelter.
THANKS FOR VIDEO,, WILL HELP THE PILGRIMS. 👍
A knife is a piece of steel/metal that is sharp enough to do what you need to do. Back in the 80's when I taught Wilderness Survival, and talked about knife use. The term "Bushcraft" was not a thing. Now of course if you want a "Bushcraft" knife you will pay a lot of money. Unless you just buy a good knife to do Knife jobs. I do not chop or split wood with most knives. I will do it with a Khukuri. Of which I own 5. I like the Mora HD Companion. Yes, I own one.
❤❤❤
HELP YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS,, GIVE THEM TOOLS FOR SURVIVAL AS GIFTS.
Man, the best knife for all that that Ive found is a SWISS ARMY KNIFE.
The idea of 1 knife doing everything, not a reality, more a dream.
Mora is a great bushcraft knife, but sucks at camp chores.
SAK is great at camp chores, good at bushcraft, sucks for batoning and skinning.
Ka-Bar is great for fighting off Martian aliens and werewolves, sucks at carving wood.
I just clicked here to comment “Morakniv” because Mors Kochanski said so and that’s the bottom line
My old who has passed made his knifes from bastard files for butchering
I’m astonished he doesn’t carry a saw. That seems bonkers to me.
Risking the wrath of the good gentlemen that commented here, i'm leaning myself out of the window and say, i don't like scandi grind knives much for bushcraft. I really like a flat grind with a secondary bevel, it's much more versatile to me.
Yep, that’ll invoke the ire of every bushcraft keyboard warrior. Whatever works best for you is what you should use, obviously. Glad you know what works!
every steel is a stainless steel and a carbon steel glazing over those terms doesnt explain what specific element percentage or steel ur talking about even carbon steels have plenty of chromium in them... if you are talking HRC hardness yes its harder to sharpen the hard steels but they also hold a better edge so softer and harder steel both work as long as they arent brittle and chip on u with sh1tty grains. the quality of the craftsmanship matters more.
I have never understood why so called "bushcrafters" are all about butchering poor animals. However, they have no clue about edible or useful plants... poor knowledge!
chinese and asian have the best and sharpest blades but they sell the cheap crappy ones to the western consumers cause yall still pay for them for some reason 🤷
Serrated edges are fantastic. You do not need to baton a knife. Stainless steel rocks, thick handles suck, and all steels are alloys.
Serrated edges get in the way more often than not and limit your "good" cutting edge by a significant margin.
They're also a pain to sharpen and need special tools, making field maintenance on them difficult and adding weight to your loadout.
Not all steels. Actual Steel, is iron heated over coat or charcoal. As the iron heats up, the Iron Lattice opens up, and traps carbon from the coal or charcoal. That is plain simple steel. Yes a lot of steel is allowed, but not all.
I do agree that simple carbon steel is not an alloy, and is still different than iron, but heating over coals specifically in the presence of oxygen actually removes some carbon content over time. Not much, but some. Depends on how long it’s done and surface area of the steel exposed to oxygen at the right temp. In an anaerobic environment, yes the steel takes in more carbon from surrounding materials if the temp is right. This is called carburization, and any oxygen will cause oxidization and prevent the steel from taking in that carbon.
Technically, all steel is an alloy. Plain carbon steel is made of iron & carbon…. Two elements. So, in a practical sense, plain carbon steel is generally only considered an alloy after the addition of anything else… it’s a naming conundrum
Stainless steels can be fantastic, the only problem with them is they tend to be much harder to hear treat properly. But a good, properly heat treated stainless knife will be one of the best you've ever handled. Assuming the proper stainless alloy of course.
Say all your prayers a lot of time over and over again but still there is no substance in it, crap
You’re just a miserable person aren’t you. Your opinion is crap.
Lol😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you!