Phoenix has much more dynamic range than that. I have photos from Phoenix in harsh light developed in C41 that have decent dynamic range, a touch more than Ektachrome. It's really the scanners where Phoenix falls apart.
If you want to shoot instant film with a Hasselblad it's totally worth it. Otherwise you can spend that money on actual important things like 30 Chipotle burritos or something.
I use a Zinstax back on my RZ67. I've had exactly the same experience trying to meter at box speed and much better results at 1600. My nieces love seeing the instax photos so for that alone it's been worth the money.
Look forward to seeing more trichrome work with this combo! Hope you make a video on it! Love the content! Always excited to watch when i get a notification that youve uploaded a new video!
Tip from someone who has shot a lot of Instax: your exposure duration actually affects the color response. Ideally you shoot it at 1/60 or 1/125. Anything slower begins to skew blue very dramatically, higher shutter speeds gradually give a warmer response
@@nbautista12 I think it's more like 640. But with the very narrow dynamic range, it's hard to tell precisely. I treat it like slide film and meter for the highlights. The brightest point with detail is about 1 2/3 stops over, the darkest point with detail is about 1 2/3 stops under.
@@dmrain94 even more interesting! I recently purchased one of Mint’s TL70 plus cameras that also uses instax squares. Love the shooting experience but like Attic Darkroom, would say the film is temperamental so hoping any tips shooting it will help. Thanks for sharing!
Shooting Instax with the Lomograflok on my 4x5, the biggest issue I've found is that it's basically only got about 3 stops of usable dynamic range, compared to the 8-10 or more of most negative film stocks. That means most built-in camera meters that take a scene or centre-weighted average just aren't going to be enough to know if the scene will expose correctly. I've had my best results so far shooting studio portraits using strobes, but you've got to meter really thoroughly and use a *really* flat lighting ratio to get anything good. I can also really recommend the black & white Instax if you can get it!
Did they actually create a USB-C device without the mandatory 5.1k resistors? That's why it doesn't charge, the device is simply out of USB spec. You expect that from $10 USB flashlights, not $300 device. For such price I'd actually return it.
One way to use Instax is to meter for the highlights and use flash to illuminate the foreground. This works well with the Mamiyas and Hasselblads due to their fast sync speeds at 1/500th
I've had NONS SQ back for a bit now. I follow the instructions in using it. It works fine and was sensibly priced. Charge it up and it's good for about 8 to 10 packs of film; I guess I'll figure out how to change a battery when it fails. The dark slide was a bit fiddly to insert at first, is now easy. Exposure with the Fuji film is my largest issue ... Instax SQ color is very contrasty and tricky to get the right compromise, the B&W is much more forgiving. For the price, it's good enough for my use... The alternative Instax SQ backs I see so far are much more expensive and I have to wonder just how cost effective they are. This is a useful back, just not a Hasselblad quality grade piece...
Your video motivated me to pull the NONS SQ back out and test exposures with Instax SQ color. I set my meter for ISO 800 and read incident exposures in EV mode. By and large what I found is that contrasty or dark scenes in the EV 5-9 range needed about 1EV more exposure than the reading, where more evenly lit scenes in the 9-11 EV range were fine at the measured reading. That's not too far off, I can work with it. And, even though it's been three or four months since I used the NONS back, it still had more than enough charge in it to shoot this pack and probably one or two more ... But eh? I'm done for today, and I'll recharge it before putting it away.
i took an inxtax mini around before i ever had any 35mm developed. it was fun crossing the country hitting up goodwills for film and just taking pictures. its its own animal from real film, it will squeeze depth out of the latest scenes. in my eye not better or worse just different. gotta re calibrte the brain to instax mode to get landscapes and light houses out of what reely wants to be flash portraits in dim lit partys.
Enjoyed the video!! Did you look into the HassyPB? Made by a super nice guy in Thailand and seems to address many of the issues you had with the Nons. Similar price too
I had escura from kick starter was kinda disappointing and I got this as well. If the could clear out the black frame and fully cover the install square would be great. My dark slide was also scratched due to the crank as well. Manual ejection for me is good so I could be creative with multi exposure
I have a zinstax for my RZ67, it works pretty well but it does take time to get used to how to shoot instax with no dynamic range. It sometimes gives a light leak when i replace the dark slide but its not really that bad, just a white spot on one side of the frame.
Temperamental film exposure is an issue, but I don’t expect perfect clarity or exposure from this. But it could be better. I bent the dark slide the first time I used it. Inserting the slide is very difficult when new, and damn near impossible once bent, especially when trying to do so when the back is still mounted on the camera body.
It would be nice, if they made the instax square magazine universal like the Polaroid type 100 magazines, with different mounting plates depending on the camera.
Ive been working on making some of these for other medium format cameras. Also, keep in mind, instax looks WAY better than Polaroid And 8:46 its wider but its actually not nearly as deep as the stock back
You can't really resolve much from the prints so having sharper lenses don't really do much. From a distance they look about the same. The nice thing is being able to control depth-of-field or shooting macro or shooting anything other than f11 and flash.
Going by official datasheets, I recall that instax >wide< resolves 10lpmm, or equivalent to like 3mpx. You don't need much resolving power. But you won't get much blurred backgrounds with these dark plastic lenses.
@@atticdarkroomThe ability to use this in low light without flash is what interests me the most. I'm just not comfortable in buying a product without warranty (it can't be shipped back as it has an internal battery). I had a Kindle that was DOA and I could not get it replaced.
Ar this point I am almost certain that instax film has some reciprocity shenanigans relates to EV. There seems to be a sweet spot EV for 800 but any other EV requires extra extra compensation and with a significant DR drop
HVSQ made a better version of the instax magazine, it is compatible with all the hassy v system line and is slick, small and full metal I've never been so happy to buy a well designed item like that, has full warranty and the company is happy to replace it with updates. It took 4 years to master the 2.1 version but again it was worth the wait Cons: for some users could be expensive
So it seems like whoever designed this never actually used a Hasselblad before. It does look solidly built, but shoddily designed. Maybe they'll do revisions in the future to fix those issues you brought up.
I toyed with the idea of grabbing the Lomograflok back for my 4x5, but what keeps putting me off is the terrible dynamic range of Instax film. I like Instax for what it is, but if you can't handle a woodland scene on a cloudy day without blank white skies... that's worse than slide film.
2:00 extra is because the film has guides to hold it flat and the instax film is wider and held further away. Image circle is the same, you just don’t see it on 120 because it’s effectively slightly masked. You’d get slightly larger images still on a 70mm back. 100% with you on the battery, hate them fixed in. That the dark slide supposedly doesn’t reliably work is kind of ridiculous honestly, as is the inability to wind with it in. Surely they could also have punched a hole in the dark slide and had a micro switch for the body pin to hit and use to trigger ejecting? As for the film, yeah it’s nice when it works but it’s very very high contrast. I’ve shot it a fair amount in a lomo back (and one sheet at a time manually before that) in a studio with strobes and you need to be within 1/3 of a stop essentially and with very low contrast ratios. Try a reflector if you’re outside with small enough subjects.
bogos binted 👽
Harmon's Phoenix film is like Instax you have to run in C41
I was almost concerned that you'd forget to trichrome the instax. Whew. that was close.
Phoenix has much more dynamic range than that. I have photos from Phoenix in harsh light developed in C41 that have decent dynamic range, a touch more than Ektachrome. It's really the scanners where Phoenix falls apart.
Honey, wake up! Attic darkroom just dropped.
👀👀👀
Trying to resist buying one of these… I totally don’t need one but it’s so tempting.
If you want to shoot instant film with a Hasselblad it's totally worth it. Otherwise you can spend that money on actual important things like 30 Chipotle burritos or something.
That does make it a tough call. 🌯
with a $300 price it is almost insulting that they didn't spend the extra 5c to add the necessary resistors to support usb-c power delivery.
I use a Zinstax back on my RZ67. I've had exactly the same experience trying to meter at box speed and much better results at 1600. My nieces love seeing the instax photos so for that alone it's been worth the money.
I don't know why I was surprised that you have a photo mag from the 90s. Class video as always
Look forward to seeing more trichrome work with this combo! Hope you make a video on it!
Love the content! Always excited to watch when i get a notification that youve uploaded a new video!
Tip from someone who has shot a lot of Instax: your exposure duration actually affects the color response. Ideally you shoot it at 1/60 or 1/125. Anything slower begins to skew blue very dramatically, higher shutter speeds gradually give a warmer response
Interesting. I'll have to mess around with that. Thanks!
+1 super interesting! Do you still rate at iso 800?
@@nbautista12 I think it's more like 640. But with the very narrow dynamic range, it's hard to tell precisely. I treat it like slide film and meter for the highlights. The brightest point with detail is about 1 2/3 stops over, the darkest point with detail is about 1 2/3 stops under.
@@dmrain94 even more interesting! I recently purchased one of Mint’s TL70 plus cameras that also uses instax squares. Love the shooting experience but like Attic Darkroom, would say the film is temperamental so hoping any tips shooting it will help. Thanks for sharing!
@@nbautista12 Congrats! That's a beautiful camera. Hope you enjoy!
Shooting Instax with the Lomograflok on my 4x5, the biggest issue I've found is that it's basically only got about 3 stops of usable dynamic range, compared to the 8-10 or more of most negative film stocks. That means most built-in camera meters that take a scene or centre-weighted average just aren't going to be enough to know if the scene will expose correctly. I've had my best results so far shooting studio portraits using strobes, but you've got to meter really thoroughly and use a *really* flat lighting ratio to get anything good. I can also really recommend the black & white Instax if you can get it!
very helpful, thanks! mines on the way.
i think the fact that the frame is a bit larger than 6x6 is due to the fact that the hasselblad can shoot 70mm too
I wonder if there is a way that you could preflash to remove some of the contrast and get a more even exposure
Did they actually create a USB-C device without the mandatory 5.1k resistors? That's why it doesn't charge, the device is simply out of USB spec. You expect that from $10 USB flashlights, not $300 device. For such price I'd actually return it.
This seems like a "wait for gen2" situation, tbh.
@@d3feKt0rif gen1 has issues that should have been caught in early stages of development, then gen2 won't be much better either.
One way to use Instax is to meter for the highlights and use flash to illuminate the foreground. This works well with the Mamiyas and Hasselblads due to their fast sync speeds at 1/500th
I've had NONS SQ back for a bit now. I follow the instructions in using it. It works fine and was sensibly priced. Charge it up and it's good for about 8 to 10 packs of film; I guess I'll figure out how to change a battery when it fails. The dark slide was a bit fiddly to insert at first, is now easy. Exposure with the Fuji film is my largest issue ... Instax SQ color is very contrasty and tricky to get the right compromise, the B&W is much more forgiving. For the price, it's good enough for my use... The alternative Instax SQ backs I see so far are much more expensive and I have to wonder just how cost effective they are. This is a useful back, just not a Hasselblad quality grade piece...
Your video motivated me to pull the NONS SQ back out and test exposures with Instax SQ color. I set my meter for ISO 800 and read incident exposures in EV mode. By and large what I found is that contrasty or dark scenes in the EV 5-9 range needed about 1EV more exposure than the reading, where more evenly lit scenes in the 9-11 EV range were fine at the measured reading. That's not too far off, I can work with it. And, even though it's been three or four months since I used the NONS back, it still had more than enough charge in it to shoot this pack and probably one or two more ... But eh? I'm done for today, and I'll recharge it before putting it away.
i took an inxtax mini around before i ever had any 35mm developed. it was fun crossing the country hitting up goodwills for film and just taking pictures. its its own animal from real film, it will squeeze depth out of the latest scenes. in my eye not better or worse just different. gotta re calibrte the brain to instax mode to get landscapes and light houses out of what reely wants to be flash portraits in dim lit partys.
Enjoyed the video!! Did you look into the HassyPB? Made by a super nice guy in Thailand and seems to address many of the issues you had with the Nons. Similar price too
I had escura from kick starter was kinda disappointing and I got this as well. If the could clear out the black frame and fully cover the install square would be great. My dark slide was also scratched due to the crank as well. Manual ejection for me is good so I could be creative with multi exposure
now i need this for the rz 67
I expected that film to be better. Seems super soft and as you say, temperamental. I’ll keep my FP100 packs frozen a while longer.
I have a zinstax for my RZ67, it works pretty well but it does take time to get used to how to shoot instax with no dynamic range. It sometimes gives a light leak when i replace the dark slide but its not really that bad, just a white spot on one side of the frame.
I've only got 1 regular back for my Hasselblad. Can't hurt to have a 2nd back :^)
Thank you 👼
Yeah, that little camera shop from 1990 probably went nowhere business wise...😉
Maybe try longer exposures to leverage reciprocity failure for less contrast - if that's even a thing for instax. idk, just a random thought
Temperamental film exposure is an issue, but I don’t expect perfect clarity or exposure from this. But it could be better. I bent the dark slide the first time I used it. Inserting the slide is very difficult when new, and damn near impossible once bent, especially when trying to do so when the back is still mounted on the camera body.
It would be nice, if they made the instax square magazine universal like the Polaroid type 100 magazines, with different mounting plates depending on the camera.
It would be neat to have a Instax mini back for 645 cameras!
Ive been working on making some of these for other medium format cameras. Also, keep in mind, instax looks WAY better than Polaroid
And 8:46 its wider but its actually not nearly as deep as the stock back
from the creators of "can it run Doom?" comes... "can it trichrome?"
Gnome 🥶
Does it bother you that the photos come out "sideways" due to ejecting from the side?
Nice!
Expensive but I think the Vinstax might be the way to go. Uses a modded SQ-1
Damn, I wish I had these problems (can't afford a Hasselblad)
Did you notice any difference in quality compared to a cheap Instax camera? I mean, those have plastic lenses but maybe for a reason.
You can't really resolve much from the prints so having sharper lenses don't really do much. From a distance they look about the same.
The nice thing is being able to control depth-of-field or shooting macro or shooting anything other than f11 and flash.
Going by official datasheets, I recall that instax >wide< resolves 10lpmm, or equivalent to like 3mpx. You don't need much resolving power. But you won't get much blurred backgrounds with these dark plastic lenses.
@@atticdarkroomThe ability to use this in low light without flash is what interests me the most. I'm just not comfortable in buying a product without warranty (it can't be shipped back as it has an internal battery). I had a Kindle that was DOA and I could not get it replaced.
Ar this point I am almost certain that instax film has some reciprocity shenanigans relates to EV. There seems to be a sweet spot EV for 800 but any other EV requires extra extra compensation and with a significant DR drop
Hey I got a two rolls of RAK 200 if you want them 2006, I think they're a Turkish brand
🖤🖤🖤
HVSQ made a better version of the instax magazine, it is compatible with all the hassy v system line and is slick, small and full metal
I've never been so happy to buy a well designed item like that, has full warranty and the company is happy to replace it with updates. It took 4 years to master the 2.1 version but again it was worth the wait
Cons: for some users could be expensive
So it seems like whoever designed this never actually used a Hasselblad before. It does look solidly built, but shoddily designed. Maybe they'll do revisions in the future to fix those issues you brought up.
nom
cool kit, unfortunate name (if youre a brit you know)
I toyed with the idea of grabbing the Lomograflok back for my 4x5, but what keeps putting me off is the terrible dynamic range of Instax film. I like Instax for what it is, but if you can't handle a woodland scene on a cloudy day without blank white skies... that's worse than slide film.
2:00 extra is because the film has guides to hold it flat and the instax film is wider and held further away. Image circle is the same, you just don’t see it on 120 because it’s effectively slightly masked. You’d get slightly larger images still on a 70mm back.
100% with you on the battery, hate them fixed in.
That the dark slide supposedly doesn’t reliably work is kind of ridiculous honestly, as is the inability to wind with it in.
Surely they could also have punched a hole in the dark slide and had a micro switch for the body pin to hit and use to trigger ejecting?
As for the film, yeah it’s nice when it works but it’s very very high contrast. I’ve shot it a fair amount in a lomo back (and one sheet at a time manually before that) in a studio with strobes and you need to be within 1/3 of a stop essentially and with very low contrast ratios. Try a reflector if you’re outside with small enough subjects.
shit at 3:23 it's the cover from the last kadabra album ?!?!?!
Try monochrome film
Mt tabor!
Non-user servicable battery is going to be a no from me; no reason for that.
Yeah, I hope you didn’t write that comment on an iPhone or literally any Android device, bro.
Drawbacks seem pretty on par with the official polaroid hasselblad back which used peel apart film that you manually ejected.
No, that back and the polaroid cassette worked just right. So, no.
I've been gnomed??
Weird, from everything I’ve heard Instax film is very good quality. Way better than Polaroid ever was or is.
to bad the picture is not full frame...
"Gnome" 😂
gnome
GNOME!!!!?!?!?!?!
4:00 that happening killed one of my minolta film cameras, gummed up almost literally everything.
Nons? More like Nonce ehehehehehehehehe