Ive just realised that ive called this a class 03 but its actually a class 04 doh!! Fair play converting to dcc with the stock motor as its very tight for space in there! 👍👍
Great job!… That crawl.. blimey you got that down to a T you have tremendous patients! With the long vids you could put time stamps if you was to make more so peeps can jump back and forth for references. Keep up the great vids!
Yes those time stamps sound like a good idea, il look into how to do those..👍 alot of what i do doesent always go to plan, just try and then try again if you dont succeed i guess, really appreciate your input and im glad you like the vids too!
Any tips on finding the negative for the stay alive? Same loco, same stay alive as you have. You’ve inspired me to install lights too. I have a ruby dcc92 decoder which has a blue wire but unsure where to wire up the negative wire of the stay alive. Cheers
By using a multimeter you can find a gnd.. use the blue as positive and probe around with the multimeter until you find a suitable gnd👍, you'll be looking for track voltage pretty much. Try and find something after the rectifying diodes👍 this can be done for most if not all decoders. Finding the blue positive wire is normally harder, gnd should be easier to find, good luck 👍
@@MaxwellTheTrainFan it is a very small model. Try and get the smallest decoder you can, i find getting electronics prewired can save alot of mucking about, like the LEDs. Fitting a decoder, stayalive and the lights really depends on how steady you are with a soldering iron i would say, again the loco is tiny but i had a go and did it i did it, im no superhuman 👍
Well that's a hot rod model Loco if I've ever seen one!! Looks amazing with custom paint work and what I'm assuming are custom buffers. And the performance is stunning with the mods you've made to gearing, power delivery, and lighting. If only more locos were made with perfectly slow, realistic performance in mind. You should rename the video to hot rodded class 04 lol!
I call it a Class 03 a fair few times in the video oops! buffer wise they are as per what the model comes with from Graham Farish, i just added some DIY weathering to the existing paint job too, nothing too fancy here, glad you like the video thanks for watching 👍
I’m looking for some help with my 04. I live in the US and I have a version that doesn’t exactly look like this one. It might be a litte bit older. It’s DC. When I got it, I was pretty sure it had a split gear. Now I’ve found it on one of the axles, the only one with a gear. Do you have any idea how I go about changing this? Is it possible to separate the wheel sets so I can pull apart an axel and replace a gear?
You can pull the wheels from the axle to remove the gear, from memory these are thin gears, id count the teeth then try and find a gear with the same ammount of teeth as the class 04 then thin the gear with a knife, press the new shaved down gear back onto the shaft then reinstall the wheel.. you need to make sure the wheel is clocked correctly though when you put it back on so its in sync with the other wheels so the loco doesent run lumpy.. generally you buy new wheel sets from Bachmann however ive just looked and i couldn't find wheelsets or gears so really your only option is to diy shave down a farish gear with the same tooth count and hope that does it chap
Thanks Alex, potentially i could, might be worth contacting me via my email address if you like. If you go to the "about" section on my channel the email address is there 👍
Hi Tim, where is the Decoder located on yours at the moment? I really struggled to fit both decoder and stay alive in mine, this is why i re geared and moved the motor position in mine
@@ThisWayWorksTWW hi thanks for the quick reply. i bought it dcc fitted - someone has hardwired a digitrax decoder and this is in the cab. I've not taken it apart myself. it's very annoying when it cuts out on points! cheers tim.
@@timstrainvideos142 yes a stay alive will help greatly with points.. the problem is the lack of space though, the lais stayalive alone takes up all the cab space so you need the smallest decoder you can get really, even then space is limited and that's why i moved the motor within the loco and added another gear, when i made mine it was just as a one off to be honest. Although bot ideal ive seen people add sound but put all the electronics inside a wagon, it would be much better to do it this way maybe by putting the stay alive in a wagon inside of the loco. I probably wouldn't make another one myself however i may sell mine in the future and can let you know when i do if you wanted
@@ThisWayWorksTWW ok thanks. sounds like a right pain. too fiddly for me. have you seen the new DCC ready class 03/04? maybe this is easier to add a stay alive to.
@@timstrainvideos142 ive not seen one myself but i suspect they also use the cab space for a Decoder and socket which still would mean moving them somewhere else to facilitate a stay alive. I just dont think its possible to fit a stay alive and decoder without changing the motor position on these locos.. maybe with some tantalum capacitors placed around other locations on the loco could work whilst not moving any of the motor components but really its a gamble, yes these locos and pretty much all the n gauge locos are very fiddely work indeed👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW It was a hardened stainless steel block ( Die ) that you would open up , there was two cut outs within the block where you would put in the rims , you closed the block then insert it inside a plastic moulding machine , pull the lever which then forced the hot plastic into the block and literally fill the rims and form the wheels . The rims were fully formed before they got to me . May i add that Mr. Farish was not a very nice man , i met him on a few occasions , normally at Christmas . His two sons ran the show , they too were not very nice . We had to call them Mr by their first names , one was Gordon if i remember correctly , so it was Mr Gordon , the other son i forget now .
@@Lord_Hillcrest that is very sad to here he and the next generation werent as charming as id hoped for tbh, its lovely to here how the wheels actually got formed, did the geared axles get done in the same fashion? Die and injection the wheels and axles? Or did the axles get pressed onto the formed plastic wheel part?
@@ThisWayWorksTWW Im sat here trying to think for you . Im pretty sure the axles were formed separately and pressed into the wheels i dont recall having anything to do with the axles . I can tell you for certain the factory was in a place called Holton Heath just outside of Poole in Dorset ( Romany Works ) ind est .
@@Lord_Hillcrest ah so we all call them poole type chassis's but they are actually Horton Heath chassis's!! Myself having fixed a few now there are some oldies and newer types, the brass gears although louder i much prefer to the plastic gears, id guess it was a way to keep manufacturing costs down overall? Ive heard the Graham Farish today (Bachmann) at some shows have been very to themselves whereas Dapol seem to be quite appoachable with questions etc, i guess il find out soon enough once i venture to an exhibition they are both at, il see what their like first hand... Well customer relation wise anywho 👍
Great job with the Class 04, you certainly have a lot to show and have my sub. Very interested to see what you use and how you fit the stay alive's Also very intrigued about your coach lighting, this is something I have yet to play with so will look forward to seeing your method! All the best Tony.
Thank you Tony, yes ive got a few diy tricks up my sleeves yet to show everybody, im just hoping at least some of it can help somebody out even if it might involve a bit of DIY, thanks again 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW I am mostly interested in the Farish as you have to also make some form of pickups unless using battery. Most dapol are already fitted with pickups. Also am interested to see if you make your own lighting and if you use stay alive's. at the minute I have several ideas one being led filament which come in the fancy bulbs, I have managed to get hold of some 3v ones and I have also got some led cob tape to play with. I think the clincher will be to what amperage they will consume and how much drag the coaches will have from the pickups. Like you I'm also dcc.
Yes it depends on what is being moved about as to how the lights are arranged though.. theres four positions in the front and four positions on the rear of the loco for directional lamps
I added another reduction gear to the gearset in the loco, by doing this i had to move the motor. Moving the motor aloud me to fit the decoder and the stayalive. The extra gear i added was from a cheap toy i had years ago, any 0.3 mod gear would be compatible with the gears in the GF class 04. At 4.27 in the video you can see the white gear, this is the extra gear i added.
Nice work ! I've converted an 04 to DCC but that was with the stock motor and no lights or stay alive !
Ive just realised that ive called this a class 03 but its actually a class 04 doh!! Fair play converting to dcc with the stock motor as its very tight for space in there! 👍👍
Great job!… That crawl.. blimey you got that down to a T you have tremendous patients! With the long vids you could put time stamps if you was to make more so peeps can jump back and forth for references.
Keep up the great vids!
Yes those time stamps sound like a good idea, il look into how to do those..👍 alot of what i do doesent always go to plan, just try and then try again if you dont succeed i guess, really appreciate your input and im glad you like the vids too!
Any tips on finding the negative for the stay alive? Same loco, same stay alive as you have. You’ve inspired me to install lights too. I have a ruby dcc92 decoder which has a blue wire but unsure where to wire up the negative wire of the stay alive. Cheers
By using a multimeter you can find a gnd.. use the blue as positive and probe around with the multimeter until you find a suitable gnd👍, you'll be looking for track voltage pretty much. Try and find something after the rectifying diodes👍 this can be done for most if not all decoders. Finding the blue positive wire is normally harder, gnd should be easier to find, good luck 👍
So dose the model come with a front light out of box ? Or do I have to fit it myself
I am only on DC also
@@MaxwellTheTrainFan i added the lights myself to this one, none that im aware of come with any lighting as standard 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW is it easy to do ? I don’t wanna get one and then break the thing by mistake .
@@MaxwellTheTrainFan you can use prewired 0402 leds, use a resistor per LED rated around 20kohm 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW I am under 18 and I am terrified I may kill the motor inside or something . That and I can’t solder
@@MaxwellTheTrainFan it is a very small model. Try and get the smallest decoder you can, i find getting electronics prewired can save alot of mucking about, like the LEDs. Fitting a decoder, stayalive and the lights really depends on how steady you are with a soldering iron i would say, again the loco is tiny but i had a go and did it i did it, im no superhuman 👍
Well that's a hot rod model Loco if I've ever seen one!! Looks amazing with custom paint work and what I'm assuming are custom buffers. And the performance is stunning with the mods you've made to gearing, power delivery, and lighting. If only more locos were made with perfectly slow, realistic performance in mind. You should rename the video to hot rodded class 04 lol!
I call it a Class 03 a fair few times in the video oops! buffer wise they are as per what the model comes with from Graham Farish, i just added some DIY weathering to the existing paint job too, nothing too fancy here, glad you like the video thanks for watching 👍
I’m looking for some help with my 04. I live in the US and I have a version that doesn’t exactly look like this one. It might be a litte bit older. It’s DC. When I got it, I was pretty sure it had a split gear. Now I’ve found it on one of the axles, the only one with a gear. Do you have any idea how I go about changing this? Is it possible to separate the wheel sets so I can pull apart an axel and replace a gear?
You can pull the wheels from the axle to remove the gear, from memory these are thin gears, id count the teeth then try and find a gear with the same ammount of teeth as the class 04 then thin the gear with a knife, press the new shaved down gear back onto the shaft then reinstall the wheel.. you need to make sure the wheel is clocked correctly though when you put it back on so its in sync with the other wheels so the loco doesent run lumpy.. generally you buy new wheel sets from Bachmann however ive just looked and i couldn't find wheelsets or gears so really your only option is to diy shave down a farish gear with the same tooth count and hope that does it chap
If you offered the gearing and decoder/stay alive fitment as a service you would have a customer right here!
Thanks Alex, potentially i could, might be worth contacting me via my email address if you like. If you go to the "about" section on my channel the email address is there 👍
You're going to make me take mine apart again and add lights!!!
Do it! 🤣
hi nice work! can you fit a stay alive in an 04 for me please? it already has a dcc chip in it. cheers tim.
Hi Tim, where is the Decoder located on yours at the moment? I really struggled to fit both decoder and stay alive in mine, this is why i re geared and moved the motor position in mine
@@ThisWayWorksTWW hi thanks for the quick reply. i bought it dcc fitted - someone has hardwired a digitrax decoder and this is in the cab. I've not taken it apart myself. it's very annoying when it cuts out on points! cheers tim.
@@timstrainvideos142 yes a stay alive will help greatly with points.. the problem is the lack of space though, the lais stayalive alone takes up all the cab space so you need the smallest decoder you can get really, even then space is limited and that's why i moved the motor within the loco and added another gear, when i made mine it was just as a one off to be honest. Although bot ideal ive seen people add sound but put all the electronics inside a wagon, it would be much better to do it this way maybe by putting the stay alive in a wagon inside of the loco. I probably wouldn't make another one myself however i may sell mine in the future and can let you know when i do if you wanted
@@ThisWayWorksTWW ok thanks. sounds like a right pain. too fiddly for me. have you seen the new DCC ready class 03/04? maybe this is easier to add a stay alive to.
@@timstrainvideos142 ive not seen one myself but i suspect they also use the cab space for a Decoder and socket which still would mean moving them somewhere else to facilitate a stay alive. I just dont think its possible to fit a stay alive and decoder without changing the motor position on these locos.. maybe with some tantalum capacitors placed around other locations on the loco could work whilst not moving any of the motor components but really its a gamble, yes these locos and pretty much all the n gauge locos are very fiddely work indeed👍
I used to work for Graham Farish . I used to make the wheels .
Thats pretty cool Jon, did you assemble the wheelsets? Or manufacture the rims etc?
@@ThisWayWorksTWW It was a hardened stainless steel block ( Die ) that you would open up , there was two cut outs within the block where you would put in the rims , you closed the block then insert it inside a plastic moulding machine , pull the lever which then forced the hot plastic into the block and literally fill the rims and form the wheels . The rims were fully formed before they got to me . May i add that Mr. Farish was not a very nice man , i met him on a few occasions , normally at Christmas . His two sons ran the show , they too were not very nice . We had to call them Mr by their first names , one was Gordon if i remember correctly , so it was Mr Gordon , the other son i forget now .
@@Lord_Hillcrest that is very sad to here he and the next generation werent as charming as id hoped for tbh, its lovely to here how the wheels actually got formed, did the geared axles get done in the same fashion? Die and injection the wheels and axles? Or did the axles get pressed onto the formed plastic wheel part?
@@ThisWayWorksTWW Im sat here trying to think for you . Im pretty sure the axles were formed separately and pressed into the wheels i dont recall having anything to do with the axles . I can tell you for certain the factory was in a place called Holton Heath just outside of Poole in Dorset ( Romany Works ) ind est .
@@Lord_Hillcrest ah so we all call them poole type chassis's but they are actually Horton Heath chassis's!! Myself having fixed a few now there are some oldies and newer types, the brass gears although louder i much prefer to the plastic gears, id guess it was a way to keep manufacturing costs down overall? Ive heard the Graham Farish today (Bachmann) at some shows have been very to themselves whereas Dapol seem to be quite appoachable with questions etc, i guess il find out soon enough once i venture to an exhibition they are both at, il see what their like first hand... Well customer relation wise anywho 👍
Great job with the Class 04, you certainly have a lot to show and have my sub. Very interested to see what you use and how you fit the stay alive's Also very intrigued about your coach lighting, this is something I have yet to play with so will look forward to seeing your method! All the best Tony.
Thank you Tony, yes ive got a few diy tricks up my sleeves yet to show everybody, im just hoping at least some of it can help somebody out even if it might involve a bit of DIY, thanks again 👍
What kind of coaches do you think youd like to see have lights? I have GF, Minitrix and some Dapols...
@@ThisWayWorksTWW I am mostly interested in the Farish as you have to also make some form of pickups unless using battery. Most dapol are already fitted with pickups. Also am interested to see if you make your own lighting and if you use stay alive's. at the minute I have several ideas one being led filament which come in the fancy bulbs, I have managed to get hold of some 3v ones and I have also got some led cob tape to play with. I think the clincher will be to what amperage they will consume and how much drag the coaches will have from the pickups. Like you I'm also dcc.
and there it is, with lights!! LOL
@@TheHeritageLine 🤔 il see what i can do 👍👍 i may have to get some bits and bobs
In real life does the class 04 have rear lights,
Yes it depends on what is being moved about as to how the lights are arranged though.. theres four positions in the front and four positions on the rear of the loco for directional lamps
How did you re gear it to a shunting speed.
I added another reduction gear to the gearset in the loco, by doing this i had to move the motor. Moving the motor aloud me to fit the decoder and the stayalive. The extra gear i added was from a cheap toy i had years ago, any 0.3 mod gear would be compatible with the gears in the GF class 04. At 4.27 in the video you can see the white gear, this is the extra gear i added.