Just a tip or two from another machanic. You can use the brake adjuster to your advantage, after you pull out the clavis pin use the brake adjuster and open up the brakes. When you feel that the brakes are fully open keep turning a little more and that will pull the arm of the brake adjuster out of your way when you go open the mounting nuts. 2 if you have shop air handy you can skip the spring brake cage bolts, after you disconnect the air lines from the caliber just connect shop air to the spring brake side. And the new spring brake cage bolts you should put those in the cab so they wont rust. We have had many calibers cracked because of those bolts rusting inside that aluminium hole on the calibers side.
Appreciate all the tips. Sounds like you know what you're doing. I don't have an air Compressor. I'm about out of room in my one car garage. I'll have to take off those caging bolts and put them in the cab. That makes sense. And getting the slack adjuster out of the way how you said makes sense too. It got in the way a lot.
Nice video ! I would like to add an item. Pipe threads get the teflon paste, you should never add teflon paste to a metal to metal seal like the seal from the air hose to the fitting you screwed into the brake chamber. Don't put anything on that side of the fitting, just make sure that it is real clean, those threads on that side do not do any sealing it's the metal to metal part at the beginning of the fitting that does the sealing. @ 18:04 If you have an air leak in the future, I would look at this fitting first.I hope this helps you ! Be safe and have a good day!
@@aftersolo Just when you have a metal to metal seal. When you have a metal to metal seal, the sealing surface does the sealing not the threads.I hope this helps!
@@brucemcelroy3186 I would say to you, Have you ever worked in the field? I have worked all my life in the field ! What do you think a flare fitting is? metal to metal, The threads on a flare fitting DO NOT do any sealing ! just one example, Oh one more example of metal to metal is a pipe union.
@@RNP69 there was one flare connection and three NPT connections. he put pipe dope on all four. the only one that didn't need pipe dope was the flare. NPT connections never seal air tight. you've been putting air leaks back on the road my guy. nobody even uses flare fittings on brake lines anymore. get with the times.
5/16 wrench and a flat tip screw driver to release the parking paw on the slade. You can actually back the slack off and away from the clevis. Id will hold it's position. Till you turn the square knob on the top of the slack
Put the truck in 1st gear. Then release the brakes with the engine off obviously. The truck being in gear and not running. Will keep the truck from rolling once you let the clutch out. Then release the brakes. Then cage them. Also you can by the extra deep 3/4 half inch drive socket for cage bolts.
O.k. I have a question for anyone that knows. Are all the nuts 15/16 the same on all chassis brake chambers or are they different nut sizes? I need to order some.
after touching about 3500 dry box van trailers over the past 6 years I've realized that a lot of individuals can't execute this process very well. I've set up close to 200 brake chambers and replaced service diaphragms on another 100. most of the guys I know that work on tractors do what they call back-halfing. they only replace the front part of the chamber, effectively avoiding: removing the clevis, removing the chamber nuts, and measuring/cutting the push-rod. After that process you've replaced all the air-sealing components and replicated the brake stroke from before. do what you will with this info. I always replace the entire chamber, adhering to the entire manufacturer procedure. I hate the pipe goop. I'm a taper. I've sealed over 1000 units to
Sounds like you know what you're doing. Yeah, a lot of guys were saying I don't have to replace the whole thing, but I figure if one part is bad, the other is probably close to going bad. Might as well do it all while I'm down there as well as the other side so everything is even. I hate having a bunch of mismatched parts. What is it about the Teflon paste that you don't like? The stickiness? That stuff is impossible to get off your hands. One guy said there's no reason to put anything on the connections since they're tapered. Idk. I like extra security.
@@aftersolo I was using tape, three wraps, and making sure I went the correct way so it wouldn't peel back when you screwed it in, for a few years. I went to a new company and they said we only use the paste, I used it one time and hated it. I continued using the teflon tape I had in my box. eventually they got me more of it. Earlier in my career I argued with a guy that you didn't need any sealant (tape or dope) and he proved me wrong with a leak-down test on job I had just done. The fittings we stock currently have some pink stuff on the threads already from the factory. I assume it's a thread sealant. I still put two layers of tape. I always liked flare fittings but I haven't come across one in a long time on an air brake system. maybe they're more common on tractors. old dude is right about not needing any sealant on the flare fitting.
@brucemcelroy3186 ok. I appreciate all the input. All I did was drive trucks for 9 years and never really learned anything about them. I've had the business 6 years now, and I've learned so much about working on them. I've always been mechanically inclined growing up on a farm and all, so this truck is kind of like my farm I guess you could say. There's always something to do on it and always something to do with it. Keeps me busy.
@7:00 the reason your slack adjuster is in the way is because the proper way to mount the chamber is with the slack adjuster off. Reason being is the "proper way" to measure and cut the rod requires the SA to be off so that its not in the way of the rod when measuring it. ua-cam.com/video/Nzm39DFANm0/v-deo.htmlsi=cKS7U0qKwqhRtDPU
That makes sense. I don't think it said anywhere in the instructions to do that, but it makes sense. Thanks for the link to the video. That was very helpful.
Thanks for watching! Be sure to like and subscribe for more content:---www.youtube.com/@aftersolo
Best DIY video ever. Thanks for sharing 🙏🏾⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you for making this video. I now think this is a job i can do myself.
@3H1-LLC Youre welcome!
I envy your patience with that instruction sheet. Great job, and thanks for the upload.
Yes. They weren't easy. You're welcome
Now I get it! Took a few days to understand the process.
Yeah. It's not that bad really.
Just a tip or two from another machanic. You can use the brake adjuster to your advantage, after you pull out the clavis pin use the brake adjuster and open up the brakes. When you feel that the brakes are fully open keep turning a little more and that will pull the arm of the brake adjuster out of your way when you go open the mounting nuts. 2 if you have shop air handy you can skip the spring brake cage bolts, after you disconnect the air lines from the caliber just connect shop air to the spring brake side. And the new spring brake cage bolts you should put those in the cab so they wont rust. We have had many calibers cracked because of those bolts rusting inside that aluminium hole on the calibers side.
Appreciate all the tips. Sounds like you know what you're doing. I don't have an air Compressor. I'm about out of room in my one car garage. I'll have to take off those caging bolts and put them in the cab. That makes sense. And getting the slack adjuster out of the way how you said makes sense too. It got in the way a lot.
@@aftersolo Well i have worked as a truck mechanic for 27 years so i guess you can say i know a thing or two ;)
Good job. Took a lot of patience.
@@hapsusamiWe are ready for another brake chamber replacement video.
Nice video ! I would like to add an item. Pipe threads get the teflon paste, you should never add teflon paste to a metal to metal seal like the seal from the air hose to the fitting you screwed into the brake chamber. Don't put anything on that side of the fitting, just make sure that it is real clean, those threads on that side do not do any sealing it's the metal to metal part at the beginning of the fitting that does the sealing. @ 18:04 If you have an air leak in the future, I would look at this fitting first.I hope this helps you ! Be safe and have a good day!
Oh, ok. Appreciate the tip. I never know when or when not to add the Teflon half the time. So you're saying it needs nothing? Just bare?
@@aftersolo Just when you have a metal to metal seal. When you have a metal to metal seal, the sealing surface does the sealing not the threads.I hope this helps!
@@RNP69 if you've been in the field you know that a little teflon tape goes a long way. metal on metal never seals air tight. stop the cap.
@@brucemcelroy3186 I would say to you, Have you ever worked in the field? I have worked all my life in the field ! What do you think a flare fitting is? metal to metal, The threads on a flare fitting DO NOT do any sealing ! just one example, Oh one more example of metal to metal is a pipe union.
@@RNP69 there was one flare connection and three NPT connections. he put pipe dope on all four. the only one that didn't need pipe dope was the flare. NPT connections never seal air tight. you've been putting air leaks back on the road my guy. nobody even uses flare fittings on brake lines anymore. get with the times.
Very good explaining 👌
@@upaliamarasena6499 thankyou
Outstanding. Thank you
You’re welcome.
Thanks!
Thankyou for that.
Good vid man !
Plane n simple.
Yer a cool dude
Thank u
Hell, I appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed it.
Good video I enjoyed watching it
Thanks. 👍
Really great‼️,video,, better than Any I seen,,😅,,good job, I subscribed
Thankyou
Thanks!!! Great video!!!
@robertovillalon2841 thankyou for the compliment.
5/16 wrench and a flat tip screw driver to release the parking paw on the slade. You can actually back the slack off and away from the clevis. Id will hold it's position. Till you turn the square knob on the top of the slack
Awesome video.. you think like most of us 😂
Appreciate it. 👍
You can buy those brake chambers with the welded clevis already on them. No cutting required
Do they always work? Seems it might be too long or too short depending on the application. I've never used one though.
When i install welded clevis chambers, I just go off the vin, perfect fit everytime.@aftersolo
@@sebastian9463 I'll have to try that next time. Cutting them is a pain.
If the ports on the chambers for the airlines are square. It's a long stroke chamber, if the ports are round port. It's a short stroke.
@@GregFeeney392 it's a 30/30 long stroke.
Put the truck in 1st gear. Then release the brakes with the engine off obviously. The truck being in gear and not running. Will keep the truck from rolling once you let the clutch out. Then release the brakes. Then cage them. Also you can by the extra deep 3/4 half inch drive socket for cage bolts.
O.k. I have a question for anyone that knows. Are all the nuts 15/16 the same on all chassis brake chambers or are they different nut sizes? I need to order some.
I wouldn't know, but I would bet they were all 15/16.
Awesome!
Thanks!
Gracias 🙏
after touching about 3500 dry box van trailers over the past 6 years I've realized that a lot of individuals can't execute this process very well. I've set up close to 200 brake chambers and replaced service diaphragms on another 100. most of the guys I know that work on tractors do what they call back-halfing. they only replace the front part of the chamber, effectively avoiding: removing the clevis, removing the chamber nuts, and measuring/cutting the push-rod. After that process you've replaced all the air-sealing components and replicated the brake stroke from before. do what you will with this info. I always replace the entire chamber, adhering to the entire manufacturer procedure. I hate the pipe goop. I'm a taper. I've sealed over 1000 units to
Sounds like you know what you're doing. Yeah, a lot of guys were saying I don't have to replace the whole thing, but I figure if one part is bad, the other is probably close to going bad. Might as well do it all while I'm down there as well as the other side so everything is even. I hate having a bunch of mismatched parts.
What is it about the Teflon paste that you don't like? The stickiness? That stuff is impossible to get off your hands. One guy said there's no reason to put anything on the connections since they're tapered. Idk. I like extra security.
@@aftersolo I was using tape, three wraps, and making sure I went the correct way so it wouldn't peel back when you screwed it in, for a few years. I went to a new company and they said we only use the paste, I used it one time and hated it. I continued using the teflon tape I had in my box. eventually they got me more of it. Earlier in my career I argued with a guy that you didn't need any sealant (tape or dope) and he proved me wrong with a leak-down test on job I had just done. The fittings we stock currently have some pink stuff on the threads already from the factory. I assume it's a thread sealant. I still put two layers of tape. I always liked flare fittings but I haven't come across one in a long time on an air brake system. maybe they're more common on tractors. old dude is right about not needing any sealant on the flare fitting.
@brucemcelroy3186 ok. I appreciate all the input. All I did was drive trucks for 9 years and never really learned anything about them. I've had the business 6 years now, and I've learned so much about working on them. I've always been mechanically inclined growing up on a farm and all, so this truck is kind of like my farm I guess you could say. There's always something to do on it and always something to do with it. Keeps me busy.
If you put a brass plug inside the fitting you're taking off the chamber. You reduce the risk of crushing the brass fitting.
@7:00 the reason your slack adjuster is in the way is because the proper way to mount the chamber is with the slack adjuster off. Reason being is the "proper way" to measure and cut the rod requires the SA to be off so that its not in the way of the rod when measuring it.
ua-cam.com/video/Nzm39DFANm0/v-deo.htmlsi=cKS7U0qKwqhRtDPU
That makes sense. I don't think it said anywhere in the instructions to do that, but it makes sense. Thanks for the link to the video. That was very helpful.
Measure your old pushrod
amateur hour.
liked. no sub.
Cool.
Awsome video and explanation. Kee up the grear work
Thankyou.
Thanks!
Thankyou!