I had an S2A for my photography when I was 16, it cost £250 in 1974 in the UK and shipped with the Zenzanon 80mm f2.8, which I have since learnt was made by Carl Zeiss and is regarded as one of the best lenses made for the camera. I had generous parents who funded my photography so I could do professional shoots and start what has become a life-long relationship with photography. I always liked the click that the eye level viewfinder made when you flicked it open! It was pretty costly shooting with it and really made you think carefully about how many frames you shot. I did have a Zenith E for everyday fun as the Nikons or Canons were out of reach financially until I became a media student a couple of years later. I have just rebought this camera with the 80mm lens from Japan so I can relive the sounds it made!
I remember reading a short paragraph in 'Popular Photography' magazine (USA) when the S2A was introduced, explicitly detailing the changes from the S2. The author said professionals had complained about stripping the film advance stop claw on the S2 when they were rushing to advance via the crank (you've noticed how many turns it takes to advance a frame!) On the S2A, the author said, the locking mechanism had been changed to one that locks on three teeth instead of the single tooth of the S2, and the parts were treated by nitriding to make the metal harder (nitriding also is used on high-performance car engines.) Those were basically the only changes, but they make the S2A much more durable. (Of course the changes are invisible from the outside, so you have to use other means to tell whether you're being offered an S2 or an S2a.) Of course if you have an S2 and advance the film more gently (people used to say advance by turning the knob; don't use the crank) you'll be unlikely to have any problems. Back in my S2A-using days, I had the 75mm lens and also a 50mm wide-angle lens; this was also a Nikkor if I remember correctly. The 50 was very sharp and convenient. Back in those days this was a big advantage of the Bronica over the Hasselblad, which required mirror lockup to use its wide-angle lenses. The need to clear the back of a wide-angle lens was the reason for the Bronica's wacky slide-down-mirror design, and this also accounts for the amazing sound it makes when it fires (or more accurately "erupts" or "detonates.") I'd love someday to see a video of the Bronica's bizarre firing sequence in slow motion!
Hey, thanks, that's really interesting, so it was just the film advance stop claw? And the info about larger teeth on the film advance gears isn't right? There is so much wrong information floating around out there on the web! If only I could track down a Bronica engineer who totally knew what the truth is! I might see if I can track down a back-issue of that magazine. And great info about the 50mm... I've seen the Zenzanon 40mm being sold occasionally, but not a 50mm. They seem pretty hard to come by, and because they're hard to come by and sought after, the sellers usually get a hefty price for them. One day maybe! Thank you for all the info
I have an s2a. Got it earlier this year and had to replace the focusing screen and mirror foam. While I did that, I upgraded to a brighter screen, which seems to be about 25% brighter. I have the 75mm of course, a 100, and a 135mm. I also have the 45 degree viewfinder and its great for portraits. I want to round out the kit with a 50mm - nikkor and Zen made 50mm as you mentioned only 40mm - and a chimney finder for landscapes with the 50mm. I love the experience of shooting with the S2A, it is so tactile in touch and sound. People love getting their photos taken with it and people always inquire about it when im out and about with it. You can't deny the character it has and the joy it brings.
They really do right? People love them! And i agree with you, I totally love shooting this camera. I’ve just replaced the mirror foam and the screen for a brighter one too. Will be uploading that video soon. Next on my list for the S2A is another lens, I’m watching the camera shops and eBay... I’ll find one! Out of interest, of the three lenses you have, which one do you find yourself using more?
@@the120ist can't wait to watch that video. I lost my mirror bracket screw inside my camera for nearly 30 min, and I really thought I was screwed, but it finally fell out. Never been so relieved. I got the plain screen - no gridlines - along with the mp center, so no split screen. Id say its about 25% brighter which is nice. Which configuration did you go with? So, when I bought it it came with the 100 and 75, and to be honest not much difference between those two. If It didn't come with it, I wouldn't buy the 100 unless it was extremely cheap. It is just kind of redundant. I bought the 135 for portraits, perfect portrait lens for this kit, but i haven't gotten to use it because my focusing got too bad. My Broni sat on the shelf for 4 months until I decided to fix it, but this weekend im going to test it out. So, for portraits get the 135 or the 150. I got the 135 because I found it for $70 and I wanted a portrait lens. But either one will be great. The 200 for tighter close ups of a little bit long landscapes. I do want that one as well. The 45 degree finder is awesome for portraits but it weighs SOOO much. Its nuts but its easier to compose portraits. Finally, the 50mm if you shoot landscapes, architecture etc. The 40mm is way expensive and rare. Im going for the 50mm and a chimney view finder to work together. I shoot a bit of everything, but more portraits when I can, but landscapes when I travel. Luckily our lenses are affordable and I'd say your complete kit will only ever be 3 lenses most likely. Have you CLAd yours? I was thinking i might tackle that next. It would be nice to get all the gears lubed up nicely and to learn more about the camera in the process. What do you think?
Those damn tiny screws and washers! they are a pain in the ass. I recently bought a powered screwdriver (called a wowstick) and it came with a lightly magnetized mat where you put your tiny screws and they don't roll away. I could live without the screwdriver, but the magnetized screwpad might be the most useful thing I've ever owned! Good to know about the 100mm... I think you're probably right - three lenses, 50mm, 75mm and 135/150mmm and you're kind of covered for most things you might want to do. Like you I been looked around for a 40mm but they are about twice the price of the camera, and don't come up often. I haven't CLA'd mine... I want to, but every time I fix a bit and the camera gets a little better I get less bold about taking it apart again! It's easy when the camera isn't working, because it doesn't matter if you mess it up - it wasn't working anyway right? But when it's working well I get scared I'm going to stop it working! I have a backlog of shitty little cameras that I want to fix, so I'll probably hone my skills and confidence on them, and then look at tackling a full CLA on the S2A. If you do it, let me know how you get on. I'll have a raft of questions for you!!
I should also say all the screwdriver heads for the wowstick are magnetized too, so nothing disappears as you're unscrewing, plus it comes with a tool for re-magnetizing your heads when lose their bite. I should be a sales man for these guys!
@@the120ist your are selling it! I have to look into that, wish I would have before the foam and screen change, would have me time and a stress! Yeah, ill probably get a 200mm as well since I do shoot portraits a lot, and nice ones are only $100. I wish digital lenses were only $75 or $100! I have to test out the 100 vs the 75 to see which one is truly better. There isn't a lot of info on the 100 and the 75 is so great for a kit lens that I think it just gets overlooked. The 50 can be pricey. You don’t want the Nikor H old design and tons of flaring. The O.C. model is the best one but that goes for $200 to $400. I think the "O" is the sweet spot of newer model, better coating, cost. Plus, it depends on how much you shoot landscapes. If that's the majority of your shooting, then splurge for the O.C. version. I really like the newer black model. It is sleek and more rare. Maybe one day I'll get a body after I have all the lenses. But, then I think then why not get a SQA then. We are cursed with GAS I tell you! Well, in a few hours im going to go on a road trip from San Francisco to Santa Barbara on highway 1 which is the most beautiful stretch of coastal highway in California - and im bringing my Pentax 6x7, S2A, Nikon F3, and Minolta 7sii. I have a pack of Portra 400 for both 120 and 35mm as well as some Ektar 100 for 120. This will be the test if I fixed it properly and hopefully I can get some great photos.
My S2A leatherette has got sooo much worse since this video! I'm planning on stripping it right down and giving it a whole new covering pretty soon. Video to come!
I personally believe the Bronica S2A is the most beautiful camera ever made ! I had an S and a C and though very similar and beautiful, it all came together with the S2A . Thanks for the videos, more please ! LarryMac
They really are beautiful cameras. I'm just finishing up a vid kind of about film and film stocks (will make sense when you see it), and I shot all the rolls on my S2A. Soooo good to be back out with it again and shooting with purpose. I just love that camera! Vid coming soon!
@@skularatna8136 I was in Akihabara a couple of weeks ago and found two extra lenses for my S2A: A Nikkor 50 mm f/3.5 and a Nikkor 135 mm f/3.5. Both were quite reasonably priced, 200 USD for the 50 mm (with an extra helical that I don't need) and 75 USD for the 135 mm.
8:53 You got that part slightly wrong. The X is 1/40s and will sync "modern" flashes, if you use old school bulb based flashes you need to go to 1/15s or slower.
Interestingly the flash sync system on the S2A is a lot more complicated than I realised. I did some research on it a couple weeks back, after someone asked a very complicated question about it, and it turns out that there are actually two systems working. One sync system that works up to a shutter speed of 1/40, as you say, and another that works at faster shutter speeds, for use with FP sync, or flat peak, another outdated system. So much to learn about these cameras!
Thanks! It's a nice moment when you realise your S2 is an S2A right? Mine was sadly balanced out by the realisation my "S2A" was an S2.... was delivered complete with a doctored S2A instruction manual with the original s/n blanked out and the S2 s/n written in! I'm really interested in an EC or an SQ... but need to sell some other cameras before I can afford that! They're almost as expensive as Hasselblads!
Hey mate! great video, not many on these cameras about. Just been sold the S2 with it listed as the S2a so of to a great start haha. Maybe a silly question but is there a way to test the shutter without any film loaded? I wanna hear that sound and be sure its firing. Cheers.
Hey, sorry for taking ages to respond. The shutter should fire if you take the back off. With the back on but no film in it will just spin and the winding crank won't arm the shutter.
I recently inherited an S2A in great apparent condition, however, my first roll did not manage to advance past the first frame. With the film back removed, I've noticed the gear on the right side does not rotate when I wind the shutter crank. I am assuming it is this gear that advances the film. I'm curious, does your gear spin when winding the shutter crank with film back removed? Thx for making these great vids!
Hey, sorry for taking a while to get back to you with this. Did you figure this out? I'm away from home at the moment but can take a look at my S2A when I get back. I can't right now remember if the gears spin when winding with the back off! I'm pretty sure they must do, because that whole system relies on friction-based clutches to know when to apply the drive to different systems... but I should check. Let me know if you've already figured it out!
No worries! I've yet to try putting a dummy/exposed roll into a second back I just purchased to test...if you get around to examining your model, I'd still find it helpful but absolutely no rush on it @@the120ist
I use my garage quite a bit. Only problem is I have to pack everything back down again every evening. What I really need to do is convert it permanently into a studio... I've had my application in with the planning department (my wife) for some months now, but no movement so far!
My first medium format SLR was the S2A. I had just the body, 75mm lens, and 1 mag. I travelled with it, wishing I had another magazine and one more lens. When I returned to Melbourne Australia, I did get another film magazine then both the 40 and 100mm lenses. The 75mm is excellent, the 100mm is OK, and the 40mm is crap. I sold the entire outfit, using the proceeds as a down-payment on Hasselblad 500C (1989) and built an extensive system. 😊 The S2A is bulky, tinny and noisy, and I never want to touch one again. The SQ series I would consider, but nothing earlier. But yes, I did create some memorable images with the S2A/75mm combo. 👌
Ha ha! So not a fan then? It's not for everyone, that's for sure. And as you've pointed out, the lenses are hit or miss. I've bonded with this camera over the years though, I think I like its imperfections, its quirks. I'm not sure I would have developed the same bond with a Hasselblad. But then I've never been able to afford one, so haven't had the chance to find out!
Hi there! I'm a proud owner of an S2A. I was lucky enough to buy a complete studio set with a Bronica case for a ridiculously low price. It was in a near mint condition, too! I really don't think it saw much use in the past. And I have to say S2A is my favourite camera. I used it exstensively over the past year and it was nothing but reliable. *knocks on wood* So what would you say it's inherent faults are? Cheers!
Hey Marko! Great that you’ve have no problems so far. Long may that last. The S2A’s are definitely more robust and less prone to issues, but I still read about lots of problems. The issue is that they are such complex cameras, compared to a TLR for example. Take a look at the photos half way down this thread, of what’s behind the side panel - www.photrio.com/forum/threads/thoughts-on-the-bronica-s2.172725/ The bottom is even busier! There’s just so much going on in there that there is a lot to potentially have problems. The well known one is the foam around the focusing screen and behind the mirror, you’re probably aware of that. Other than that I’ve heard about or read about springs failing, wind on problems, the frame advance click failing, film jams... you name it! They’re old cameras with a lot to go wrong. But then that’s why the S2A fetches a higher price than the S2, because it’s just a bit more reliable.
@@the120ist Aha. Got it. Yeah, I read about the focusing issues so the first thing I did when I got her is I replaced the foam both under the mirror and focusing screen. The original foam was next to non existent after all these years. Yeah, it is a complex machine, but I hope they designed and built her well. The S2A I mean. I does feel like a tank in hand haha I do hope it will serve me well for a long time.
I was surprised that you didn’t get any motion blur from the mirror when you were taking the shot on 1 second. How would you go about doing long exposures on this beast? The mirror would cause too much motion blur, unless there’s a way to lock up the mirror
No way of locking the mirror, that I'm aware of. However, the S2 and S2A (and maybe other Bronicas) were quite unique in that the mirror hinges down, not up, it slides flat into the base of the camera body before the cloth focal plane shutter fires. So that downward motion of the mirror is right into the baseplate of your tripod, right at the most stable point of the camera body. I just held the S2A in my hand, set it to bulb, and fired, and there is very little perceptible jolt on the opening, much more on closing. But by that time your shutter has done its thing and the film is covered again.
That said, I've never tried an exposure longer than a second, that I recall! But you would expect to get mirror slap on a one second, if it was going to happen.
Actually, I've just done some more reading and there's some suggestion that the mirror is in fact in two parts, one half swinging upwards, the other swinging downwards on shutter actuation, the two motions cancelling each other out, therefore no lock up required.
good video, one tip, for buying these, like the other Bronica cameras (etr/etrsi/SQ/SQa/ai/GS) you MUST have the darkslide to get the film magasine off the body, as these are interlocked with the back release, and unlike Hasselblad and MamiyaRB\RZ67's there is NO separate back release switch.
Thanks, you're absolutely right of course. I've been lucky enough that none of the cameras I've had, or film backs, have been missing dark slides. Tough to replace if you find yourself missing one!
I think it's flash sink is faster than 1/15. The green shutter speeds are for flash older flash that take longer to ignite. The X is for xenon flashes and I think on the S2 it is 1/40 of a second. Don't quote me on that; try it.
there are two 50mm lens, one is F2.8 and one 3.5, both made by Nikon Did you try taking 13 frames? you set the film magazine to 24 frames, and make the start arrow half frame before the start red point when loading, then you can take 13 shoots with 6x6
I've never tried that, but thanks for the tip. How do you then roll the film through? Just keep shooting through until it rolls free? Any experience of the two 50mm lenses? Or know if one is significant better than the other? I assume the 2.8 is more expensive?
@@the120ist when you finish 13 shot, switch back to 12, then you can roll the film as normal. I only have the 50/3.5, a very sharp lens in wide open, very few distortion and can focus so close to take portrait, i cost me total around $250, lens itself, ship from Japan and local CLA for the lens (aperture sticky ) 2.8 cost 50 more but less in the market, so I didn’t bought both
Interesting about the 13 frames! I'll have to try that. Thanks for the tip. I've always wanted a wider lens for this camera, the narrow field of view is one thing I don't like about it, I like shooting close and wide when I can. Great info about the 50s. Thanks!
S2; I bought one a while back, but haven’t used it. Came with: 50mm, 75mm, 135mm, that strange A,B,C lens add-on thingy, 2x film cases, an eye piece. I’m no photographer though, so wasted on me. But I love the weight and mechanics of it.
You don’t need to be a photographer to give it a go! Go on, pop some film in, look through the top and press the shutter button. You might surprise yourself! Those A, B, C things are macro extension tubes btw. They allow you to focus on stuff really close to the camera, for photographing like, insects and stuff!
I had an S2A for my photography when I was 16, it cost £250 in 1974 in the UK and shipped with the Zenzanon 80mm f2.8, which I have since learnt was made by Carl Zeiss and is regarded as one of the best lenses made for the camera. I had generous parents who funded my photography so I could do professional shoots and start what has become a life-long relationship with photography. I always liked the click that the eye level viewfinder made when you flicked it open! It was pretty costly shooting with it and really made you think carefully about how many frames you shot. I did have a Zenith E for everyday fun as the Nikons or Canons were out of reach financially until I became a media student a couple of years later. I have just rebought this camera with the 80mm lens from Japan so I can relive the sounds it made!
I remember reading a short paragraph in 'Popular Photography' magazine (USA) when the S2A was introduced, explicitly detailing the changes from the S2. The author said professionals had complained about stripping the film advance stop claw on the S2 when they were rushing to advance via the crank (you've noticed how many turns it takes to advance a frame!) On the S2A, the author said, the locking mechanism had been changed to one that locks on three teeth instead of the single tooth of the S2, and the parts were treated by nitriding to make the metal harder (nitriding also is used on high-performance car engines.) Those were basically the only changes, but they make the S2A much more durable. (Of course the changes are invisible from the outside, so you have to use other means to tell whether you're being offered an S2 or an S2a.) Of course if you have an S2 and advance the film more gently (people used to say advance by turning the knob; don't use the crank) you'll be unlikely to have any problems.
Back in my S2A-using days, I had the 75mm lens and also a 50mm wide-angle lens; this was also a Nikkor if I remember correctly. The 50 was very sharp and convenient. Back in those days this was a big advantage of the Bronica over the Hasselblad, which required mirror lockup to use its wide-angle lenses. The need to clear the back of a wide-angle lens was the reason for the Bronica's wacky slide-down-mirror design, and this also accounts for the amazing sound it makes when it fires (or more accurately "erupts" or "detonates.") I'd love someday to see a video of the Bronica's bizarre firing sequence in slow motion!
Hey, thanks, that's really interesting, so it was just the film advance stop claw? And the info about larger teeth on the film advance gears isn't right?
There is so much wrong information floating around out there on the web! If only I could track down a Bronica engineer who totally knew what the truth is! I might see if I can track down a back-issue of that magazine.
And great info about the 50mm... I've seen the Zenzanon 40mm being sold occasionally, but not a 50mm. They seem pretty hard to come by, and because they're hard to come by and sought after, the sellers usually get a hefty price for them. One day maybe!
Thank you for all the info
A little late, but...here we go: ua-cam.com/video/X_JRrJrup5s/v-deo.html
Nice! I've got one. S2A. Must take it out of the box and start shooting again. Thanks.
Do it, it's an amazing camera! My favourite still, despite my ongoing issues!
I have an s2a. Got it earlier this year and had to replace the focusing screen and mirror foam. While I did that, I upgraded to a brighter screen, which seems to be about 25% brighter. I have the 75mm of course, a 100, and a 135mm. I also have the 45 degree viewfinder and its great for portraits. I want to round out the kit with a 50mm - nikkor and Zen made 50mm as you mentioned only 40mm - and a chimney finder for landscapes with the 50mm. I love the experience of shooting with the S2A, it is so tactile in touch and sound. People love getting their photos taken with it and people always inquire about it when im out and about with it. You can't deny the character it has and the joy it brings.
They really do right? People love them! And i agree with you, I totally love shooting this camera.
I’ve just replaced the mirror foam and the screen for a brighter one too. Will be uploading that video soon.
Next on my list for the S2A is another lens, I’m watching the camera shops and eBay... I’ll find one!
Out of interest, of the three lenses you have, which one do you find yourself using more?
@@the120ist can't wait to watch that video. I lost my mirror bracket screw inside my camera for nearly 30 min, and I really thought I was screwed, but it finally fell out. Never been so relieved.
I got the plain screen - no gridlines - along with the mp center, so no split screen. Id say its about 25% brighter which is nice. Which configuration did you go with?
So, when I bought it it came with the 100 and 75, and to be honest not much difference between those two. If It didn't come with it, I wouldn't buy the 100 unless it was extremely cheap. It is just kind of redundant. I bought the 135 for portraits, perfect portrait lens for this kit, but i haven't gotten to use it because my focusing got too bad. My Broni sat on the shelf for 4 months until I decided to fix it, but this weekend im going to test it out.
So, for portraits get the 135 or the 150. I got the 135 because I found it for $70 and I wanted a portrait lens. But either one will be great. The 200 for tighter close ups of a little bit long landscapes. I do want that one as well. The 45 degree finder is awesome for portraits but it weighs SOOO much. Its nuts but its easier to compose portraits.
Finally, the 50mm if you shoot landscapes, architecture etc. The 40mm is way expensive and rare. Im going for the 50mm and a chimney view finder to work together.
I shoot a bit of everything, but more portraits when I can, but landscapes when I travel. Luckily our lenses are affordable and I'd say your complete kit will only ever be 3 lenses most likely.
Have you CLAd yours? I was thinking i might tackle that next. It would be nice to get all the gears lubed up nicely and to learn more about the camera in the process. What do you think?
Those damn tiny screws and washers! they are a pain in the ass. I recently bought a powered screwdriver (called a wowstick) and it came with a lightly magnetized mat where you put your tiny screws and they don't roll away. I could live without the screwdriver, but the magnetized screwpad might be the most useful thing I've ever owned!
Good to know about the 100mm... I think you're probably right - three lenses, 50mm, 75mm and 135/150mmm and you're kind of covered for most things you might want to do. Like you I been looked around for a 40mm but they are about twice the price of the camera, and don't come up often.
I haven't CLA'd mine... I want to, but every time I fix a bit and the camera gets a little better I get less bold about taking it apart again! It's easy when the camera isn't working, because it doesn't matter if you mess it up - it wasn't working anyway right? But when it's working well I get scared I'm going to stop it working! I have a backlog of shitty little cameras that I want to fix, so I'll probably hone my skills and confidence on them, and then look at tackling a full CLA on the S2A.
If you do it, let me know how you get on. I'll have a raft of questions for you!!
I should also say all the screwdriver heads for the wowstick are magnetized too, so nothing disappears as you're unscrewing, plus it comes with a tool for re-magnetizing your heads when lose their bite. I should be a sales man for these guys!
@@the120ist your are selling it! I have to look into that, wish I would have before the foam and screen change, would have me time and a stress!
Yeah, ill probably get a 200mm as well since I do shoot portraits a lot, and nice ones are only $100. I wish digital lenses were only $75 or $100! I have to test out the 100 vs the 75 to see which one is truly better. There isn't a lot of info on the 100 and the 75 is so great for a kit lens that I think it just gets overlooked.
The 50 can be pricey. You don’t want the Nikor H old design and tons of flaring. The O.C. model is the best one but that goes for $200 to $400. I think the "O" is the sweet spot of newer model, better coating, cost. Plus, it depends on how much you shoot landscapes. If that's the majority of your shooting, then splurge for the O.C. version.
I really like the newer black model. It is sleek and more rare. Maybe one day I'll get a body after I have all the lenses. But, then I think then why not get a SQA then. We are cursed with GAS I tell you!
Well, in a few hours im going to go on a road trip from San Francisco to Santa Barbara on highway 1 which is the most beautiful stretch of coastal highway in California - and im bringing my Pentax 6x7, S2A, Nikon F3, and Minolta 7sii. I have a pack of Portra 400 for both 120 and 35mm as well as some Ektar 100 for 120. This will be the test if I fixed it properly and hopefully I can get some great photos.
I have an old S2A with the same problem of the covering coming off. We were able to peel it off, realign it and put it back on. Looks like new!
My S2A leatherette has got sooo much worse since this video! I'm planning on stripping it right down and giving it a whole new covering pretty soon. Video to come!
I personally believe the Bronica S2A is the most beautiful camera ever made ! I had an S and a C and though very similar and beautiful, it all came together with the S2A . Thanks for the videos, more please ! LarryMac
They really are beautiful cameras. I'm just finishing up a vid kind of about film and film stocks (will make sense when you see it), and I shot all the rolls on my S2A. Soooo good to be back out with it again and shooting with purpose. I just love that camera! Vid coming soon!
Just got an S2 today from Tokyo Akihabara in excellent quality. Didn’t know about the S2A
@@skularatna8136 I was in Akihabara a couple of weeks ago and found two extra lenses for my S2A: A Nikkor 50 mm f/3.5 and a Nikkor 135 mm f/3.5. Both were quite reasonably priced, 200 USD for the 50 mm (with an extra helical that I don't need) and 75 USD for the 135 mm.
8:53 You got that part slightly wrong. The X is 1/40s and will sync "modern" flashes, if you use old school bulb based flashes you need to go to 1/15s or slower.
Interestingly the flash sync system on the S2A is a lot more complicated than I realised. I did some research on it a couple weeks back, after someone asked a very complicated question about it, and it turns out that there are actually two systems working. One sync system that works up to a shutter speed of 1/40, as you say, and another that works at faster shutter speeds, for use with FP sync, or flat peak, another outdated system. So much to learn about these cameras!
same thing happened to me my s2 is actually an s2a great video and great shots in your garage ive also an ec-tl that i use alot
Thanks! It's a nice moment when you realise your S2 is an S2A right? Mine was sadly balanced out by the realisation my "S2A" was an S2.... was delivered complete with a doctored S2A instruction manual with the original s/n blanked out and the S2 s/n written in!
I'm really interested in an EC or an SQ... but need to sell some other cameras before I can afford that! They're almost as expensive as Hasselblads!
I just bought an S2A from a seller in Japan. I should have it next week. I’m looking forward to working with the camera.
Woo hoo! Congratulations, good choice. You're going to love it!
Hey mate! great video, not many on these cameras about. Just been sold the S2 with it listed as the S2a so of to a great start haha. Maybe a silly question but is there a way to test the shutter without any film loaded? I wanna hear that sound and be sure its firing. Cheers.
Hey, sorry for taking ages to respond. The shutter should fire if you take the back off. With the back on but no film in it will just spin and the winding crank won't arm the shutter.
I recently inherited an S2A in great apparent condition, however, my first roll did not manage to advance past the first frame. With the film back removed, I've noticed the gear on the right side does not rotate when I wind the shutter crank. I am assuming it is this gear that advances the film. I'm curious, does your gear spin when winding the shutter crank with film back removed? Thx for making these great vids!
Hey, sorry for taking a while to get back to you with this. Did you figure this out? I'm away from home at the moment but can take a look at my S2A when I get back. I can't right now remember if the gears spin when winding with the back off! I'm pretty sure they must do, because that whole system relies on friction-based clutches to know when to apply the drive to different systems... but I should check. Let me know if you've already figured it out!
No worries! I've yet to try putting a dummy/exposed roll into a second back I just purchased to test...if you get around to examining your model, I'd still find it helpful but absolutely no rush on it @@the120ist
The garage makes a nice studio. I personally use my basement but the ceiling is only 7 feet high. Noisy is an Mamiya medium format series.
I use my garage quite a bit. Only problem is I have to pack everything back down again every evening. What I really need to do is convert it permanently into a studio... I've had my application in with the planning department (my wife) for some months now, but no movement so far!
My first medium format SLR was the S2A. I had just the body, 75mm lens, and 1 mag. I travelled with it, wishing I had another magazine and one more lens. When I returned to Melbourne Australia, I did get another film magazine then both the 40 and 100mm lenses. The 75mm is excellent, the 100mm is OK, and the 40mm is crap.
I sold the entire outfit, using the proceeds as a down-payment on Hasselblad 500C (1989) and built an extensive system. 😊
The S2A is bulky, tinny and noisy, and I never want to touch one again. The SQ series I would consider, but nothing earlier.
But yes, I did create some memorable images with the S2A/75mm combo. 👌
Ha ha! So not a fan then? It's not for everyone, that's for sure. And as you've pointed out, the lenses are hit or miss. I've bonded with this camera over the years though, I think I like its imperfections, its quirks. I'm not sure I would have developed the same bond with a Hasselblad. But then I've never been able to afford one, so haven't had the chance to find out!
Hi there!
I'm a proud owner of an S2A. I was lucky enough to buy a complete studio set with a Bronica case for a ridiculously low price. It was in a near mint condition, too! I really don't think it saw much use in the past. And I have to say S2A is my favourite camera. I used it exstensively over the past year and it was nothing but reliable. *knocks on wood*
So what would you say it's inherent faults are?
Cheers!
Hey Marko! Great that you’ve have no problems so far. Long may that last. The S2A’s are definitely more robust and less prone to issues, but I still read about lots of problems.
The issue is that they are such complex cameras, compared to a TLR for example. Take a look at the photos half way down this thread, of what’s behind the side panel - www.photrio.com/forum/threads/thoughts-on-the-bronica-s2.172725/
The bottom is even busier! There’s just so much going on in there that there is a lot to potentially have problems.
The well known one is the foam around the focusing screen and behind the mirror, you’re probably aware of that.
Other than that I’ve heard about or read about springs failing, wind on problems, the frame advance click failing, film jams... you name it! They’re old cameras with a lot to go wrong.
But then that’s why the S2A fetches a higher price than the S2, because it’s just a bit more reliable.
@@the120ist Aha. Got it. Yeah, I read about the focusing issues so the first thing I did when I got her is I replaced the foam both under the mirror and focusing screen. The original foam was next to non existent after all these years.
Yeah, it is a complex machine, but I hope they designed and built her well. The S2A I mean. I does feel like a tank in hand haha
I do hope it will serve me well for a long time.
I was surprised that you didn’t get any motion blur from the mirror when you were taking the shot on 1 second.
How would you go about doing long exposures on this beast? The mirror would cause too much motion blur, unless there’s a way to lock up the mirror
No way of locking the mirror, that I'm aware of. However, the S2 and S2A (and maybe other Bronicas) were quite unique in that the mirror hinges down, not up, it slides flat into the base of the camera body before the cloth focal plane shutter fires.
So that downward motion of the mirror is right into the baseplate of your tripod, right at the most stable point of the camera body.
I just held the S2A in my hand, set it to bulb, and fired, and there is very little perceptible jolt on the opening, much more on closing. But by that time your shutter has done its thing and the film is covered again.
That said, I've never tried an exposure longer than a second, that I recall! But you would expect to get mirror slap on a one second, if it was going to happen.
Actually, I've just done some more reading and there's some suggestion that the mirror is in fact in two parts, one half swinging upwards, the other swinging downwards on shutter actuation, the two motions cancelling each other out, therefore no lock up required.
Check this out - S2A shutter in slow motion - ua-cam.com/video/X_JRrJrup5s/v-deo.html
Great video! Just subscribed, keep it up!
Thank you! And thanks for the sub. More shoots with the S2A coming soon!
good video, one tip, for buying these, like the other Bronica cameras (etr/etrsi/SQ/SQa/ai/GS) you MUST have the darkslide to get the film magasine off the body, as these are interlocked with the back release, and unlike Hasselblad and MamiyaRB\RZ67's there is NO separate back release switch.
Thanks, you're absolutely right of course. I've been lucky enough that none of the cameras I've had, or film backs, have been missing dark slides. Tough to replace if you find yourself missing one!
Of course it getting stiff. I did, too at those shutter sounds!
Ha haa!
I think it's flash sink is faster than 1/15. The green shutter speeds are for flash older flash that take longer to ignite. The X is for xenon flashes and I think on the S2 it is 1/40 of a second. Don't quote me on that; try it.
Did I say 1/15? If I did then that is a mistake, you're right! Sorry about that. Definitely sync speed on S2/S2A is 1/40, as you say. Thank you!
When you want to know the depth of field, measure how far you can plow, before turning around.
Ha haaaaaa, love this!
there are two 50mm lens, one is F2.8 and one 3.5, both made by Nikon
Did you try taking 13 frames? you set the film magazine to 24 frames, and make the start arrow half frame before the start red point when loading, then you can take 13 shoots with 6x6
I've never tried that, but thanks for the tip. How do you then roll the film through? Just keep shooting through until it rolls free?
Any experience of the two 50mm lenses? Or know if one is significant better than the other? I assume the 2.8 is more expensive?
@@the120ist when you finish 13 shot, switch back to 12, then you can roll the film as normal.
I only have the 50/3.5, a very sharp lens in wide open, very few distortion and can focus so close to take portrait, i cost me total around $250, lens itself, ship from Japan and local CLA for the lens (aperture sticky )
2.8 cost 50 more but less in the market, so I didn’t bought both
Interesting about the 13 frames! I'll have to try that. Thanks for the tip.
I've always wanted a wider lens for this camera, the narrow field of view is one thing I don't like about it, I like shooting close and wide when I can. Great info about the 50s. Thanks!
@@the120ist how'd thr test on the 13 shots go? I'm interested to see what your results were 😄
I have a Bronica S2a, with the 75mm, 40mm and a 200mm. All Nikkors. The 200mm cames with a close up filter...
Nice! That's a great set up. I'm still using just the 75mm stock lens. I'd love a 40mm but they're so expensive! One day....
do you use different helicoid focus ring for different lens?
@@GigiDAmico nop, I have only one helicoid
50mm Nikkor lens is also common
That was funny. You had the S2A and S2 in the wrong hands at the beginning of the video. I owned and used both from 1979-2005.
Yes I did! Wow this video seems so long ago now. I've learned so much more about these cameras since then! Including how to tell them apart!
It's not a source of argument if it's fact. Sincerely, An Okay Boomer. Andy
S2; I bought one a while back, but haven’t used it. Came with: 50mm, 75mm, 135mm, that strange A,B,C lens add-on thingy, 2x film cases, an eye piece.
I’m no photographer though, so wasted on me. But I love the weight and mechanics of it.
You don’t need to be a photographer to give it a go! Go on, pop some film in, look through the top and press the shutter button. You might surprise yourself!
Those A, B, C things are macro extension tubes btw. They allow you to focus on stuff really close to the camera, for photographing like, insects and stuff!
Why do people take soooo long to just get to the point though
Hey, thanks for the feedback! Which bit do you feel was the point I should have got to sooner?
just got a 40mm f4 zenzanon mc and 80 2.4 as well as a s2a. i emailed you about them!
Saw your email, thank you, will reply now!
@@the120ist hmmm, i dont think it came through