I'm definitely going to try your method. I'm okay with "Heart and Soul" for fancy pens, but a little better throughput for bread and butter would be nice. Cheers from Texas!
Interesting. I came to the same solution several years ago but used the white plastic polish after going through the wet sanding grits. A deep mirror like finish is quickly attained. I was using the 6 inch cotton wheels and Tripoli to buff out aluminum castings. Later I purchased additional cotton wheels and white polishing compound to polish the visors of my face protectors that had gotten pretty scratched up. Using the cotton wheels for final polish is indeed so much faster and easier. Thanks for the video!!!
Thanks for the comparison of what you once used to your system now..I'm going to have to look into that buffing system....I HATE the micro mesh pads, sooo time consuming and at times for very little results. I've noticed the buffing setup on others here on the tube aswell so there must be something to it.
Yeah, the worst part of the micro mesh method for me is that I don't have a heated shop, so having my hands in water in a cold shop gets pretty uncomfortable. The buffing system I have is made by Beal, I use the 4" system that works well on a high speed bench grinder. They also have a 8" system that works better for a slow speed grinder, I see a lot of people use this one on the lathe as well, the larger diameter gives you the same results at a lower RPM. You can get the 4" kit here: www.woodworkingshop.com/product/bk70008/ or the 8" kit here: www.woodworkingshop.com/product/bk70007/
Joe - one tip I can offer to you, take the plastic bags that your pen kit comes with, the small ones, and use them to apply the ca glue. It won't stick to the bag so you can take your time & with a light touch and slow lathe speed you can get a pretty good finnish with less sanding. I know I said one tip, but I can't in all good conscience, let that sand off the glue on the ends thing. You're going to have too many people sanding the ends at a slight angle. Just enough that the pen parts don't fit right. You advised them to go to Bob's channel to see how those blanks are made, why wouldn't you tell them what Bob uses, more to the point, why don't you use Bob's method. It's a relatively inexpensive jig that works every time. Sorry about the rant, Jim
Thanks Jim, I've done the trick with the plastic bags when I'm using thin CA, with the medium it's not much of an issue because it doesn't soak through the paper towel as much. Bob's method is great. I use the method that I do for two reasons. First, because I've been doing it that way from the beginning and I've gotten good at it. Also, and anyone can do it, the only equipment needed is a piece of sandpaper and a flat surface. The second is that a big part of woodworking for me is mastering the craft, and doing as much as I can by hand. I know it is just sanding glue off, but having that muscle memory and being able to use my eyes, ears, and feel to get it just right is very satisfying for me. Jigs are great, but they do take that tiny amount of skill away that I can apply to other things. I'm not saying that people that use jigs are unskilled either, I use them for some things. Thanks for watching and for the advice.
I know this is a couple years later but who is Bob? Can you point me to it please? I have issues when I do CA glue...sometimes when I get to the end with 7000 wet sanding and once I start to polish there can be white parts of the finish that look cloudy? Not sure why this happens but it cant be seen until I finish with polish or dry well at 7000. It looks as if the finish below the outter finish is not ....finished. I just do not know why it happens.
I use this set - www.woodworkingshop.com/product/BK70008/ but they also make one that mounts to your lathe here - www.woodworkingshop.com/product/BK70024/
This finish is not as shiny as the micro mesh method but man it cuts the process of pen making nearly in half! I'd say this finish is about 80% as clear and shiny but 100% worth it if you're making pens to sell at a lower price or for mass production.
An easy rule to go by is 3x your cost. Like if the pen kit is $3 you probably won't get more than $10 out of it. Now, when you start getting into more detailed things that take longer to make you'll want to start charging for your time, and your hourly rate will go up as your skills and demand go up. It's a bit of trial and error when starting out. If you quote a price and they immediately accept it, you didn't charge enough.
I have been Micro pad polishing for a while. I think I will try your mop polishing idea. Thank you.
I'm definitely going to try your method. I'm okay with "Heart and Soul" for fancy pens, but a little better throughput for bread and butter would be nice. Cheers from Texas!
Interesting. I came to the same solution several years ago but used the white plastic polish after going through the wet sanding grits. A deep mirror like finish is quickly attained. I was using the 6 inch cotton wheels and Tripoli to buff out aluminum castings. Later I purchased additional cotton wheels and white polishing compound to polish the visors of my face protectors that had gotten pretty scratched up. Using the cotton wheels for final polish is indeed so much faster and easier. Thanks for the video!!!
Thanks for watching!
Good point to avoid the expense and mess of Micro Mesh pads. Love the Beall Buffing system.......thanks for showing
Thanks for watching!
Nice one Joe. I'll check out that buffing system. Darragh turner in France
Awesome, thank you!
Now that's a cool pen, still haven't got around to pen-turning but I have a feeling it will not be long before I do! Very inspirational.👍
Thanks! I highly recommend it.
A great instructional video with superb results. Gorgeous looking pen Joe.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks Mike!
Great vid, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the comparison of what you once used to your system now..I'm going to have to look into that buffing system....I HATE the micro mesh pads, sooo time consuming and at times for very little results. I've noticed the buffing setup on others here on the tube aswell so there must be something to it.
Yeah, the worst part of the micro mesh method for me is that I don't have a heated shop, so having my hands in water in a cold shop gets pretty uncomfortable. The buffing system I have is made by Beal, I use the 4" system that works well on a high speed bench grinder. They also have a 8" system that works better for a slow speed grinder, I see a lot of people use this one on the lathe as well, the larger diameter gives you the same results at a lower RPM. You can get the 4" kit here: www.woodworkingshop.com/product/bk70008/ or the 8" kit here: www.woodworkingshop.com/product/bk70007/
Joe - one tip I can offer to you, take the plastic bags that your pen kit comes with, the small ones, and use them to apply the ca glue. It won't stick to the bag so you can take your time & with a light touch and slow lathe speed you can get a pretty good finnish with less sanding.
I know I said one tip, but I can't in all good conscience, let that sand off the glue on the ends thing. You're going to have too many people sanding the ends at a slight angle. Just enough that the pen parts don't fit right. You advised them to go to Bob's channel to see how those blanks are made, why wouldn't you tell them what Bob uses, more to the point, why don't you use Bob's method. It's a relatively inexpensive jig that works every time.
Sorry about the rant, Jim
Thanks Jim, I've done the trick with the plastic bags when I'm using thin CA, with the medium it's not much of an issue because it doesn't soak through the paper towel as much.
Bob's method is great. I use the method that I do for two reasons. First, because I've been doing it that way from the beginning and I've gotten good at it. Also, and anyone can do it, the only equipment needed is a piece of sandpaper and a flat surface. The second is that a big part of woodworking for me is mastering the craft, and doing as much as I can by hand. I know it is just sanding glue off, but having that muscle memory and being able to use my eyes, ears, and feel to get it just right is very satisfying for me. Jigs are great, but they do take that tiny amount of skill away that I can apply to other things. I'm not saying that people that use jigs are unskilled either, I use them for some things.
Thanks for watching and for the advice.
I know this is a couple years later but who is Bob? Can you point me to it please? I have issues when I do CA glue...sometimes when I get to the end with 7000 wet sanding and once I start to polish there can be white parts of the finish that look cloudy? Not sure why this happens but it cant be seen until I finish with polish or dry well at 7000. It looks as if the finish below the outter finish is not ....finished. I just do not know why it happens.
Do you have a link where you bought the buffing wheel kit? Can it mount on a lathe or grinder only?
I use this set - www.woodworkingshop.com/product/BK70008/ but they also make one that mounts to your lathe here - www.woodworkingshop.com/product/BK70024/
This finish is not as shiny as the micro mesh method but man it cuts the process of pen making nearly in half!
I'd say this finish is about 80% as clear and shiny but 100% worth it if you're making pens to sell at a lower price or for mass production.
That was my thought process as well. Great for bulk items.
So, how much do you charge for a pen like that? I'm just starting out and I don't know how to charge for my work.
An easy rule to go by is 3x your cost. Like if the pen kit is $3 you probably won't get more than $10 out of it. Now, when you start getting into more detailed things that take longer to make you'll want to start charging for your time, and your hourly rate will go up as your skills and demand go up. It's a bit of trial and error when starting out. If you quote a price and they immediately accept it, you didn't charge enough.
How much do you sale the pens for?
$10 to $20 usually