I recently sold this CRV. I have posted a spreadsheet to illustrate the cost of ownership on my community tab. Let me know if you see any flaws in my math. Math was never my strong suite. www.youtube.com/@SpotGoesHawaii/community
Great tips Spot! You'd be surprised how many tires I've changed for men as they stood there and watched me. Some didn't even know where the spare tire was! Their man card should be revoked. 🤣
💯%! I had a co-worker who was late to work because he had to wait for AAA to come change his flat. I hung my head in shame for him that day. Too funny, you're doing good!
I have a 2021 Honda CRV and being honest sometimes I envy people who have a beater, man those people don’t worry about new scratches or being scratch at all. They care less about them and that is richness in peace.
I daily a 2003 rav 4. It is older than me and was previously my parents’. I also have a 2019 frontier for doing bigger deliveries, hauling stuff, and adventures. I’ll drive both till the wheels fall off. I don’t want to ever have a car payment.
This used to be me, back in the 1980s/1990s. Once you start making some decent money, just buy new, or late model, and sell/trade at around 150k to 200k miles. After that, the hassle factor is just not worth it.
It can be for sure. But I tend to drive mine a long time. My daily is a 2012 Ford Focus 5 speed. Bought it new, and still driving it. I bought a new 2020 Honda Civic, have owned it 4 years and only have 10k miles on it. Have it if I need to take a road trip, plus will most likely be my retirement car.
You are absolutely correct on everything you said, I could not have said it better. I’ve driven beaters since I got out of high school, I’m 67 years old now. Lucky for me my beaters were either a Toyota or a Nissan. Simple and easy to fix. Some beaters were given to me, I bought a beater from a neighbor. I keep an eye out on my family and neighbors cars to see when they get a new car. Luckily I had interest in cars when I was young, that was the thing to do, work at a gas station and work on cars. That knowledge and skills is like gold today. I’ve saved a lot of money in 50 years. Beater cars will require attention because things will go wrong. It helps if you have some DIY skills. Today I much rather drive a newer vehicle, it’s just more comfortable and less maintenance. Everyone should have one beater in their life to know how a car works so you don't get screwed too bad by a mechanic or dealer.
You’ve got a few years on me but we’ve lived through a lot of similarities in our car ownership timeline. I am about to sell my CRV and get something a little newer and safer.
I still have my 07 Taurus I bought new. I replaced the alternator twice, the starter twice, fuel pump once, valve covers once. AC still works great. No reason to buy a new car. Paint still looks good too. I do most of the work myself, unless it requires taking the engine apart then I take it to my mechanic.
I got a 1998 Toyota Camry CE with the 4 cylinder 2.2L. It runs great as I’ve been keeping up on repairs and fluids as they leak just a bit lol. But a very nice car, bought at 189k miles and have it to 195k now. I do a lot of commuting and for $1100 this was a great deal, right in line with all of your points as well. If I didn’t know or want to learn about this car and what it needs abs how to work on it I would definitely have lost a couple grand on repairs or sold it unnecessarily. 5 speed manual as well, honestly love it. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for this comment. I've mostly owned high mileage Toyotas and just like you i've had nothing but great experiences owning them. I am jealous you got a 5 speed. Seems like manual transmissions are going the way of the dinosaur. I enjoy driving them. $1100 - you did great IMO.
I love manual transmissions. My 78 Bronco has a NP 435 4 speed, granny gear 1st and reverse. I take off in 2nd gear under normal use with 35" tires and 4.56 gears.
Read in a book years ago that you should buy a car 4 years old, that t you could not afford new. We did this twice since 2016, and we are way ahead in car equity ( paid off) and repairs. My wife loves her 2012 MKZ and would be hard pressed to replace replace it in the near future. Yes, get a good mechanic and maintenance is the key to longevity in your vehicles.
I have a 2004 Tundra I bought 3 years ago..bad mpg but it’s a runner. I spent money on some repairs but every vehicle needs repairs. Here it’s $157 an hour mechanic. It’s a Hoopty but I don’t care I wanted a first Gen Tundra because I like them. Way less tech and computers. I’m keeping it, new front lights made it look fresher and brighter. New timing chain, brakes, tires, battery. It’s my truck forever.
every 'old' car or truck starts looking like a piggy bank after 7-10 years. Now all the late models I drive feel heavy & bloated. No thanks. I'll take light & missing the computer(s) & all wheel drive & 29mpg till it pukes. VW golf heading towards 600k miles. New tires late next year. Brake pads too prob. Mine's 'obd nothing'. Unscannable. lol.
I have a 2006 Honda Pilot as my daily driver vehicle. I bought it in July 2020 with 167 000 miles on it. I have the Workshop Manual and do about 90% of the repairs myself. I haven't had any breakdowns, and i find it much cheaper to maintain my old car when compared to my wife's newer 2016 vehicle. My vehicle has 247 152 miles on it and i am looking forward to the 300 000 mile mark.
Used is always better than new,,no car payment every month,minimal maintenance if you buy a decen car,insurance is cheap if a major problem pops up just go find another,,im financially secure just not paying for car payments for the last 40 years,,put that car payment into investments and have anything u want just from interest slone
My pops when he was alive, did all the maintenance and repairs on our vehicles growing up. He grew up on a farm so he knew a lot, learned quite a bit from him. Living in Kailua, rust was really common place. He would get old cars and trucks left by military that finished there duty station and fix them up. Learned a lot from him and passing that onto my children. When looking at used cars, don't be scared to ask questions and take it to a shop to get a look over. When I worked for a repair center, there was quite a few deals made right then and there. "It's going to cost this much to get it sorted. Can you knock some off?" The buyer got a discount, the seller got money and most of the time the repair shop got the job. Anyways, love you all. Glad I live on the mainland though. No more rust! But also, no more huli huli chicken. Anyways, love you all! Stay safe!
There will be expenses for registration, insurance and fuel on new cars as well as used cars. Let's set those costs aside for now. Purchase price for a used car of $2400 plus maintenance costs of $2100 = $4500 divided by 84 months equals a little less than $54 a month. Used cars make great economic sense.
My wife an I have been married for 49 years and have only bought 2 brand new cars in all that time, once in 1982 and the other time in 2009. We have never sold a car with less than 150,000 miles on it and several with well over 200,000. I did my own maintenance until I became physically unable to and I can still do small things. I've successfully torn down gas, diesel, water cooled, and air cooled engines and all of these engines ran for 100,000 miles more after repairs. Presently my wife's car is the 2nd brand new one, a 2009 Nissan Cube with 110,000 miles and the only unexpected repair has a muffler. I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe, bought 12 years ago with 72,000 miles and now has 127,000 miles. We live on a small mountain in Virginia and in snow the Nissan just will NOT come up the driveway - it's got those low profile tires and wheels and they just don't press down enough. The Tahoe has 4wd and it's our tow and snow vehicle - I also have a Ural sidecar motorcyle and if a rally is far away we trailer it. I can't say I'm a big GM fan but they were built decently in 1999 and it doesn't burn oil or leak and has very little rust. I'm not sure what I would buy to replace it should it die now. I also had a 1984 VW Vanagon, water cooled, which I loved to death, but I needed a bit more towing power. It rode and handled much better than the Tahoe, with four wheel independent suspension and rack and pinion steering. And had a lot more room inside. No AC though, great heaters (one front, one rear). I guess my ideal vehicle would have been a 4wd Vanagon with the power and torque of the Tahoe. On the downside, with a Vanagon you almost HAD to do your own service, the VW dealers didn't like working on them because there were so few that they didn't have much experience with them. It didn't need a lot over the 20 plus years I owned it, a front wheel bearing and a set of ball joints, the differential started to stick and I got a used one and put in, replaced the clutch while it was apart. The differential failure was a real rarity, I called a couple of online specialty shops and they had never heard of one going bad. A radiator near the end of my ownership, and clutch master and slave cylinders - both easy to replace.
Nice. Got my 95 Tahoe on a good deal because I needed towing and 4x4. Last year of the TBI 350, and I must say 3 years later, I'm still pretty impressed. Sure, the door hinges are out of line, the dash and driver seat are cracked, and the gas mileage hurts, but when I need to go up Whitetop in the winter, it'll take me.
@@sk1dr0w There's a video on UA-cam on how to fix the front door sag easily. Basically you put a jack under the open door for support, drive the bottom hinge pin up to clear the bottom of the hinge, slide a washer in, and put the hinge pin back down. Fixed both of mine and even if it doesn't the time and cost are so small.
Great video, working on your own car feels so rewarding even if it’s not always fun. Im young so I’m trying to keep the costs low, my car was $2000 and I’ve spent very little by doing all my own maintenance and repairs. The real issue is my insurance payment is over $5000 a year(with a perfect record). But nothing I can really do about insurance.
Wow 5gs a year? That’s crazy. If your 16 or so keep your head up and driving record clean and it will get better. I think once your 21 the rates drop then again at 25 assuming you’ve been a good driver. Also look into a good GPA discount. Most insurers offer them if you have a 3.0 or above.
Yup! 97 Ranger ($2k)and 95 Tahoe ($1800) here. I got my wife a used 2017 CRV ($21k) because we have little kids and long trips (my trucks don't have AC) but I still do the maintenance on all vehicles, even some of the bigger repairs that I can get the parts and tools for. Sure, it's more time investment on my part, but I'd rather learn something and know it was done correctly (and save some money). I figure $2k/year/car is a decent cost for transportation, so we'll need to keep the CRV another 10 years to see the real savings 😊 But the best part is, they're all paid off already.
So glad you made this! I'll be relocating to Oahu this spring and will be bringing my 2013 Kia Rio with me. Everyone thinks I'm crazy but she's in great shape and has less than 60,000 miles 😁. We would love your thoughts on the big warehouse stores, a Hawaii Sam's vs. Costco video would be amazing!
Thanks Auntie! 60k is just a baby in the car world here. I'll try to put something together for the big box stores but to be fair I don't have much experience with Sams. I'm a Costco guy at the moment.🤣
Well said. An owner who does 20K or 30K miles/year needs the reliability not found in a beater. However if you are retired, and drive 1K to 10K miles/year, you have the time to turn a wrench, no rush if the car is down a few days/weeks, then absolutely buy a beater.
I drive a 2004 Grand Prix. It had 42K miles when I bought it in 2014 and now it has 250k miles. I paid $6500 for it, $455 in original sales taxes and the total repairs for the last 9 years is about $650 and then another $800 for 2 sets of tires I've worn out over the years. Since regular maintenance is about the same for a 19 year old car as it is for 2 year old car I'm not going to get into that and I actually do all of it myself anyway which makes it way cheaper. But yearly property taxes are about $30 and yearly registration is about $70. And insurance, liability only, is about $300 a year. If you average that over the last 102 months which is the actual time I've owned it then I've spent $115 a month on the car. Today it has a value of about $1800 so I could recoup a little bit of that if I was to sell it. But I only have about 50k miles to go to hit 300k and I'd really like to see if I can hit 400k miles.
The most cost effective and environmentally friendly source of transportation is pick a dependable easy to work on vehicle and drive it the rest of your lifetime. I have been driving my 85 4wd toyota pickup since 2000. Not the most luxurious but it never let's me down with good maintenance.
@@traxxasJohnHere here! Been driving my 2000 Toyota 4Runner for 15 years and I'm at 300K miles. Looking to get to half a million -- hopefully no 16-yr-olds get in the way of me doing that! (Just had my 2001 Camry totaled b/c of a youngster failing to yield.) Cheers to Japanese cars that run forever and are pretty straightforward to work on yourself! 🍻
@@traxxasJohnthat’s awesome! I remember reading a UA-cam comment of a dude that was 40 and he was still driving his first car that he got when he was around 19. A late 90s civic. I want that to be me someday.
My first car was bought the same day I was born so I said I will keep it as long as it drives. 2021 right before Christmas the front shock broke and the wheel practically fell off. One new shock and a tie rod that got wiped out later its still driving. Need the other side shock and have a whole new front suspension to go in when the weather clears up.
Recently had to rebuild the entirety of my 2000 beater's rear end. Cost me $600 to replace both rear knuckles, bearings, brake lines, drum brake assembly, one axle, and more.
24 years ago I bought a 1991 VW Jetta for 1550 bucks. Today that car now has almost 400k miles on it. I kept it going by fixing it myself. Insurance is cheap. Only 43 bucks per month and that's for 300k coverage. About a year ago I started looking for a newer car because I wanted something with airbags and anti-lock brakes. About 6 months ago I bought a 2016 Toyota Yaris with low miles and now I'm planning on selling the old VW. I've had it for such a long time it's kinda become a member of the family, but I think it's time to let it go to someone else. Maybe the new owner will keep it going for another 300k+ miles. I get to keep all the memories I have about that car and I'm looking forward to making new memories with the Toyota. Maybe it'll last even longer than the old VW.
400k is maybe a new record for mileage that i've heard about. I also definitely understand the sentiment of a car becoming one of the family. You get so familiar with all the quirks of an old car you just accept it as normal just like in a relationship with another person.
Like your wholistic cost approach to TCO. Some UA-camrs omit fuel in their TCO. Can you also share how many miles you drove during this 7 year period? Would like to know your TCO cost/mile over 7 years.
That's another great car IMHO. Don't have a firm cost on my monthlies. Need to pencil it out. Been difficult to keep track with the prices of everything shooting up.
I appreciate the comment Andrew but I am not following the logic. Why wouldn't you add the cost of tires to vehicle ownership? I get it that it applies to any car so I would think it would be applied to all cars.
@@SpotGoesHawaii well because your title is “ buying a new car versus buying a used car”. I didn’t see you put numbers up for a new car. So your variable is new versus old. The title of the video is not calculating total cost of ownership.
i drive a used 3500 cummins dodge with 80k miles 2004 paid 17k for her...replaced entire suspension and breaks and now going to put 400k miles on her the next 5 years
I recently sold this CRV. I have posted a spreadsheet to illustrate the cost of ownership on my community tab. Let me know if you see any flaws in my math. Math was never my strong suite.
www.youtube.com/@SpotGoesHawaii/community
Great tips Spot! You'd be surprised how many tires I've changed for men as they stood there and watched me. Some didn't even know where the spare tire was! Their man card should be revoked. 🤣
💯%! I had a co-worker who was late to work because he had to wait for AAA to come change his flat. I hung my head in shame for him that day. Too funny, you're doing good!
@FoodFiend I will stand there and watch you change my tire, even though I know exactly where it is, and pay you to do it.
@@douglaswilliams6834 that's cool. I did it because it was my job. But I can still do it and plug my own tires.
Yeah but they know every TikTok dance and lyrics to Taylor Swift songs!😜😜😜
I have a 2021 Honda CRV and being honest sometimes I envy people who have a beater, man those people don’t worry about new scratches or being scratch at all. They care less about them and that is richness in peace.
You could buy a beater if you wanted to, so you must not envy them enough to actually want to be in their position.
I only drive beater car so no worry about dent, scratch, scrape, hail damage or whatever.
I daily a 2003 rav 4. It is older than me and was previously my parents’. I also have a 2019 frontier for doing bigger deliveries, hauling stuff, and adventures. I’ll drive both till the wheels fall off. I don’t want to ever have a car payment.
This used to be me, back in the 1980s/1990s. Once you start making some decent money, just buy new, or late model, and sell/trade at around 150k to 200k miles. After that, the hassle factor is just not worth it.
It can be for sure. But I tend to drive mine a long time. My daily is a 2012 Ford Focus 5 speed. Bought it new, and still driving it. I bought a new 2020 Honda Civic, have owned it 4 years and only have 10k miles on it. Have it if I need to take a road trip, plus will most likely be my retirement car.
You are absolutely correct on everything you said, I could not have said it better. I’ve driven beaters since I got out of high school, I’m 67 years old now. Lucky for me my beaters were either a Toyota or a Nissan. Simple and easy to fix. Some beaters were given to me, I bought a beater from a neighbor. I keep an eye out on my family and neighbors cars to see when they get a new car. Luckily I had interest in cars when I was young, that was the thing to do, work at a gas station and work on cars. That knowledge and skills is like gold today. I’ve saved a lot of money in 50 years. Beater cars will require attention because things will go wrong. It helps if you have some DIY skills. Today I much rather drive a newer vehicle, it’s just more comfortable and less maintenance. Everyone should have one beater in their life to know how a car works so you don't get screwed too bad by a mechanic or dealer.
You’ve got a few years on me but we’ve lived through a lot of similarities in our car ownership timeline. I am about to sell my CRV and get something a little newer and safer.
I still have my 07 Taurus I bought new. I replaced the alternator twice, the starter twice, fuel pump once, valve covers once. AC still works great. No reason to buy a new car. Paint still looks good too. I do most of the work myself, unless it requires taking the engine apart then I take it to my mechanic.
I got a 1998 Toyota Camry CE with the 4 cylinder 2.2L. It runs great as I’ve been keeping up on repairs and fluids as they leak just a bit lol. But a very nice car, bought at 189k miles and have it to 195k now. I do a lot of commuting and for $1100 this was a great deal, right in line with all of your points as well. If I didn’t know or want to learn about this car and what it needs abs how to work on it I would definitely have lost a couple grand on repairs or sold it unnecessarily. 5 speed manual as well, honestly love it. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for this comment. I've mostly owned high mileage Toyotas and just like you i've had nothing but great experiences owning them. I am jealous you got a 5 speed. Seems like manual transmissions are going the way of the dinosaur. I enjoy driving them. $1100 - you did great IMO.
I love manual transmissions. My 78 Bronco has a NP 435 4 speed, granny gear 1st and reverse. I take off in 2nd gear under normal use with 35" tires and 4.56 gears.
Read in a book years ago that you should buy a car 4 years old, that t you could not afford new. We did this twice since 2016, and we are way ahead in car equity ( paid off) and repairs. My wife loves her 2012 MKZ and would be hard pressed to replace replace it in the near future. Yes, get a good mechanic and maintenance is the key to longevity in your vehicles.
I have a 2004 Tundra I bought 3 years ago..bad mpg but it’s a runner. I spent money on some repairs but every vehicle needs repairs. Here it’s $157 an hour mechanic.
It’s a Hoopty but I don’t care I wanted a first Gen Tundra because I like them. Way less tech and computers. I’m keeping it, new front lights made it look fresher and brighter. New timing chain, brakes, tires, battery.
It’s my truck forever.
every 'old' car or truck starts looking like a piggy bank after 7-10 years. Now all the late models I drive feel heavy & bloated. No thanks. I'll take light & missing the computer(s) & all wheel drive & 29mpg till it pukes. VW golf heading towards 600k miles. New tires late next year. Brake pads too prob. Mine's 'obd nothing'. Unscannable. lol.
I have a 2006 Honda Pilot as my daily driver vehicle. I bought it in July 2020 with 167 000 miles on it. I have the Workshop Manual and do about 90% of the repairs myself. I haven't had any breakdowns, and i find it much cheaper to maintain my old car when compared to my wife's newer 2016 vehicle. My vehicle has 247 152 miles on it and i am looking forward to the 300 000 mile mark.
Used is always better than new,,no car payment every month,minimal maintenance if you buy a decen car,insurance is cheap if a major problem pops up just go find another,,im financially secure just not paying for car payments for the last 40 years,,put that car payment into investments and have anything u want just from interest slone
My pops when he was alive, did all the maintenance and repairs on our vehicles growing up. He grew up on a farm so he knew a lot, learned quite a bit from him. Living in Kailua, rust was really common place. He would get old cars and trucks left by military that finished there duty station and fix them up. Learned a lot from him and passing that onto my children. When looking at used cars, don't be scared to ask questions and take it to a shop to get a look over. When I worked for a repair center, there was quite a few deals made right then and there. "It's going to cost this much to get it sorted. Can you knock some off?" The buyer got a discount, the seller got money and most of the time the repair shop got the job. Anyways, love you all. Glad I live on the mainland though. No more rust! But also, no more huli huli chicken. Anyways, love you all! Stay safe!
I've learned more about fixing cars from my 98 Crv than any new cars I've had
There will be expenses for registration, insurance and fuel on new cars as well as used cars. Let's set those costs aside for now. Purchase price for a used car of $2400 plus maintenance costs of $2100 = $4500 divided by 84 months equals a little less than $54 a month. Used cars make great economic sense.
My wife an I have been married for 49 years and have only bought 2 brand new cars in all that time, once in 1982 and the other time in 2009. We have never sold a car with less than 150,000 miles on it and several with well over 200,000. I did my own maintenance until I became physically unable to and I can still do small things. I've successfully torn down gas, diesel, water cooled, and air cooled engines and all of these engines ran for 100,000 miles more after repairs. Presently my wife's car is the 2nd brand new one, a 2009 Nissan Cube with 110,000 miles and the only unexpected repair has a muffler. I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe, bought 12 years ago with 72,000 miles and now has 127,000 miles. We live on a small mountain in Virginia and in snow the Nissan just will NOT come up the driveway - it's got those low profile tires and wheels and they just don't press down enough.
The Tahoe has 4wd and it's our tow and snow vehicle - I also have a Ural sidecar motorcyle and if a rally is far away we trailer it. I can't say I'm a big GM fan but they were built decently in 1999 and it doesn't burn oil or leak and has very little rust. I'm not sure what I would buy to replace it should it die now.
I also had a 1984 VW Vanagon, water cooled, which I loved to death, but I needed a bit more towing power. It rode and handled much better than the Tahoe, with four wheel independent suspension and rack and pinion steering. And had a lot more room inside. No AC though, great heaters (one front, one rear). I guess my ideal vehicle would have been a 4wd Vanagon with the power and torque of the Tahoe. On the downside, with a Vanagon you almost HAD to do your own service, the VW dealers didn't like working on them because there were so few that they didn't have much experience with them. It didn't need a lot over the 20 plus years I owned it, a front wheel bearing and a set of ball joints, the differential started to stick and I got a used one and put in, replaced the clutch while it was apart. The differential failure was a real rarity, I called a couple of online specialty shops and they had never heard of one going bad. A radiator near the end of my ownership, and clutch master and slave cylinders - both easy to replace.
Nice. Got my 95 Tahoe on a good deal because I needed towing and 4x4. Last year of the TBI 350, and I must say 3 years later, I'm still pretty impressed. Sure, the door hinges are out of line, the dash and driver seat are cracked, and the gas mileage hurts, but when I need to go up Whitetop in the winter, it'll take me.
@@sk1dr0w There's a video on UA-cam on how to fix the front door sag easily. Basically you put a jack under the open door for support, drive the bottom hinge pin up to clear the bottom of the hinge, slide a washer in, and put the hinge pin back down. Fixed both of mine and even if it doesn't the time and cost are so small.
Great video, working on your own car feels so rewarding even if it’s not always fun. Im young so I’m trying to keep the costs low, my car was $2000 and I’ve spent very little by doing all my own maintenance and repairs. The real issue is my insurance payment is over $5000 a year(with a perfect record). But nothing I can really do about insurance.
Wow 5gs a year? That’s crazy. If your 16 or so keep your head up and driving record clean and it will get better. I think once your 21 the rates drop then again at 25 assuming you’ve been a good driver. Also look into a good GPA discount. Most insurers offer them if you have a 3.0 or above.
Why not drop down to third party insurance and keep that money in an emergency savings account?
Yup! 97 Ranger ($2k)and 95 Tahoe ($1800) here. I got my wife a used 2017 CRV ($21k) because we have little kids and long trips (my trucks don't have AC) but I still do the maintenance on all vehicles, even some of the bigger repairs that I can get the parts and tools for. Sure, it's more time investment on my part, but I'd rather learn something and know it was done correctly (and save some money). I figure $2k/year/car is a decent cost for transportation, so we'll need to keep the CRV another 10 years to see the real savings 😊 But the best part is, they're all paid off already.
So glad you made this! I'll be relocating to Oahu this spring and will be bringing my 2013 Kia Rio with me. Everyone thinks I'm crazy but she's in great shape and has less than 60,000 miles 😁. We would love your thoughts on the big warehouse stores, a Hawaii Sam's vs. Costco video would be amazing!
Thanks Auntie! 60k is just a baby in the car world here. I'll try to put something together for the big box stores but to be fair I don't have much experience with Sams. I'm a Costco guy at the moment.🤣
If you do a lot of kms and keep it long term, buy new. If you don’t do many kms, and especially if you can repair it yourself buy used.
Well said. An owner who does 20K or 30K miles/year needs the reliability not found in a beater. However if you are retired, and drive 1K to 10K miles/year, you have the time to turn a wrench, no rush if the car is down a few days/weeks, then absolutely buy a beater.
I will never see insurance premiums that low. South Carolina's auto insurance costs are insane!
I drive a 2004 Grand Prix. It had 42K miles when I bought it in 2014 and now it has 250k miles. I paid $6500 for it, $455 in original sales taxes and the total repairs for the last 9 years is about $650 and then another $800 for 2 sets of tires I've worn out over the years. Since regular maintenance is about the same for a 19 year old car as it is for 2 year old car I'm not going to get into that and I actually do all of it myself anyway which makes it way cheaper. But yearly property taxes are about $30 and yearly registration is about $70. And insurance, liability only, is about $300 a year. If you average that over the last 102 months which is the actual time I've owned it then I've spent $115 a month on the car. Today it has a value of about $1800 so I could recoup a little bit of that if I was to sell it. But I only have about 50k miles to go to hit 300k and I'd really like to see if I can hit 400k miles.
The most cost effective and environmentally friendly source of transportation is pick a dependable easy to work on vehicle and drive it the rest of your lifetime. I have been driving my 85 4wd toyota pickup since 2000. Not the most luxurious but it never let's me down with good maintenance.
@@traxxasJohn That makes a lot of sense. Too many people are willing to go into debt for that new car smell and shiny new paint!!!
@@traxxasJohnHere here! Been driving my 2000 Toyota 4Runner for 15 years and I'm at 300K miles. Looking to get to half a million -- hopefully no 16-yr-olds get in the way of me doing that! (Just had my 2001 Camry totaled b/c of a youngster failing to yield.) Cheers to Japanese cars that run forever and are pretty straightforward to work on yourself! 🍻
@@traxxasJohnthat’s awesome! I remember reading a UA-cam comment of a dude that was 40 and he was still driving his first car that he got when he was around 19. A late 90s civic. I want that to be me someday.
My first car was bought the same day I was born so I said I will keep it as long as it drives. 2021 right before Christmas the front shock broke and the wheel practically fell off. One new shock and a tie rod that got wiped out later its still driving. Need the other side shock and have a whole new front suspension to go in when the weather clears up.
Recently had to rebuild the entirety of my 2000 beater's rear end. Cost me $600 to replace both rear knuckles, bearings, brake lines, drum brake assembly, one axle, and more.
24 years ago I bought a 1991 VW Jetta for 1550 bucks. Today that car now has almost 400k miles on it. I kept it going by fixing it myself. Insurance is cheap. Only 43 bucks per month and that's for 300k coverage. About a year ago I started looking for a newer car because I wanted something with airbags and anti-lock brakes. About 6 months ago I bought a 2016 Toyota Yaris with low miles and now I'm planning on selling the old VW. I've had it for such a long time it's kinda become a member of the family, but I think it's time to let it go to someone else. Maybe the new owner will keep it going for another 300k+ miles. I get to keep all the memories I have about that car and I'm looking forward to making new memories with the Toyota. Maybe it'll last even longer than the old VW.
400k is maybe a new record for mileage that i've heard about. I also definitely understand the sentiment of a car becoming one of the family. You get so familiar with all the quirks of an old car you just accept it as normal just like in a relationship with another person.
Like your wholistic cost approach to TCO. Some UA-camrs omit fuel in their TCO. Can you also share how many miles you drove during this 7 year period? Would like to know your TCO cost/mile over 7 years.
Idk where you live but, that registration fee is straight highway robbery 😂
Hawai'i and yes you are right.
I have the same bald spot on my head, same place. born that way
Also don't you agree newer cars are terrible 45 grand for cheap ass plastic that's not made to last
I'm rolling a 2004 Xterra that has body rot but no shame! Hey Spot what's your total monthly cost of living on Oahu?
That's another great car IMHO. Don't have a firm cost on my monthlies. Need to pencil it out. Been difficult to keep track with the prices of everything shooting up.
Don’t add tires cost cause you’ll buy tires for any vehicle. . .how did your numbers compare to buying a new CRV??
I appreciate the comment Andrew but I am not following the logic. Why wouldn't you add the cost of tires to vehicle ownership? I get it that it applies to any car so I would think it would be applied to all cars.
@@SpotGoesHawaii well because your title is “ buying a new car versus buying a used car”. I didn’t see you put numbers up for a new car. So your variable is new versus old. The title of the video is not calculating total cost of ownership.
Yup, it'll definitely turn ladies heads. Turn AWAY from you lol.
But yeah love the content man.
Has the maintaince been very expensive like engine or transmission or just regular also have you taken it on any road trips recently?
No extra maintenance on either engine or transmission. I live on an island so the opportunity for extended road trips is somewhat limited.
Dang it would only be $75 a year to register it here in Kansas. I was like were in the heck does he live but the sign out answered my question.
It's about the same across the line in Missouri.
I am jealous. Located in Hawaii. We pay 1.25 cents per pound plus some other small fees. My CRV is just under 3000 lbs.
i drive a used 3500 cummins dodge with 80k miles 2004 paid 17k for her...replaced entire suspension and breaks and now going to put 400k miles on her the next 5 years