i’ve never done numberboards yet and I think you’re the first person that actually showed how to renumber them so thank you! If you’re worried about the paint when you remove the numberboard decal, they are removable I’m pretty sure. I think they are glued with a soft tacky glue so the do come off. I found this out because an athearn genesis gp38 I got had crooked numberboard and they were popping off.
Great weathering video. Although SP units were fairly new when UP took over. I won't be weathering them but your video is a great reference point for other Athearn engines.
good mastery of the air brush. I can only get air or blobs out of mine. Have tried various models but all the same. Appreciate the speed up of the redundant and boring stuff.
I model spring/summer 2008, and while the FRA reflective tape became mandatory in 2005, there were timetables for implementation that didn't mandate every single locomotive and piece of rolling stock get them overnight. 100% implementation on all rolling stock wasn't required until 2015 (2010 for locomotives), so I actually have a mix of cars that have and don't have the stripes in my fleet. For the most part I use prototype photos to determine if the item I'm currently working on would have had them, and if so where.
Interesting video, good to see some techniques before I tackle my own Warbonnet. I like the way the white fade coat lightened the silver and turned the red bonnet to pink. A couple of observations: applying the dark panel wash at the beginning would have prevented the problem you encountered when you tried to take the excess paint off later. Also, you re-applied the handrails but left them in a virginal condition, most photos I have looked at of the locos show at least some grime build-up in the stanchion recess particularly on the lower end. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks for the tips! I used to do the wash last as I wasn't sure if the fade would blend it in too much although seeing as though I essentially did the wash first in the video I'll have to do it first going forward. I'll probably hit the handrails with a wash going forward as well, or just reinstall them after the wash and hit them with the airbrush along with the rest of the locomotive
Beautiful work .. I do not have the guts to attempt this!! looks great but I just can't !!! U lose me at disassembly.. I have very little patience for small parts . so I love thru guys like you that do such great jobs !!
Very nice overall job ! I would prefer seeing you putting more accurate couplers but I like the way you're handling it. I'm doing jobs like this but on some older engines. It shows everybody how complicated it can be and that it needs time and skills to do it. Keep on you're good work.
Thanks! Wish I could use more prototypical couplers although the track at my club isn't very even and if the couplers are too small it'll separate the train
@@kylescustomtrains Ahhhhhh !!! Train clubs. I've learned a lot there but god preserves me from beeing part of another club for the rest of my life. If there's a place to get frustrated... Train clubs. No one is working the same way and no one is working at the same speed. At least I know why you're still using KD #5. Keep on your good work.
I thought your weathering results were great, but what really impressed me were the graffitied grain cars at the end of the video. I was just wondering why I never saw any graffiti in any videos and how it would add more realism to the layout!
Nice, let's see more of your trains running, ☺️👌😁👍 Do have the B 50 series locos warbonnet, and have you weathered them?????? I believe these are the cabless engines, and ONLY EQUIPPED WITH 4 axels. GREAT VIDEO 👋🥺😁👍
Do you do anything to protect the electrical components in the wheel sets during weathering or have to do anything afterward to ensure good electrical connection between track & locomotive?
Often times I will have to clean the wheels on the locomotive if too much paint finds it's way back there, although it isn't too difficult to remove with a little bit of rubbing alcohol and a q-tip
Recently I've had more luck with an sand/tan color paint which looks pretty much the same as a white fade with less paint clumps visible. I'd say a few coats of that would work just as well if not better on yellow than white would
@@kylescustomtrains If you're getting clumping on a fade coat, dilute the paint more, and use a high-quality modelling acrylic like Tamiya or Vallejo. I find that gives a much more uniform result than random craft acrylics.
@@kylescustomtrains Hi again. Some are using Testors. Some are using Vallejo (I herd it's the best). I tried it. Not what I thought it would be. I've started using Testors at the end of the 90's. I got frustrated of the result so many times. I switched to Tamiya flat clear and I'm VERY satisfied since.
Looks good at arm's length but I think you went way too heavy on the trucks and fuel tank -- especially all that thick brown overspray from doing the trucks. Road vehicles splash dirt up the sides from the wheels because the wheels come right to the edge of the vehicle; rail wheels are ~5ft apart under a vehicle that's ~10ft wide, so you don't get splashing like that.
The Dash 9s have been newly tooled for Genesis but Athearn is coming out with a new run of Gevos that have been updated to meet the new higher detail standards of Genesis and will have pretty much all the same features as the dash 9s like lit numberboards, roller bearing trucks, ground lights, etc.
Haha! I farm and I’ll be darn if I want to come home and work on an old antique tractor. 😂 That is why I do model RRing. Back in the 80’s when I got out of college you couldn’t hire out on the RR so I just started my own(HO scale) 😉
@@pacset2 asked a few of my engineer buddies and the consensus seems to be that EMD doesn't have it to begin with and GE has it overall although you'd be lucky if it works/was filled
777 (in the movie) is from AWVR. In reality, 777 is actually from Canadian Pacific, and had a twin. One was in perfect condition, and one was weathered, numbered 9777 and 9782 respectively.
@@kylescustomtrains missed opportunity to say you “combined the two locomotives from Unstoppable”. The joke isn’t exactly accurate, but I’m sure some people would get the reference, like some people in the comments. But still, good video overall, the end product looks really good!
I love how he modeled the “cab trash”. Every locomotive I’ve ever run has had a big pile of crew packs on the dash. That’s a great detail!
Somebody put this engine in a movie and call it “Unstoppable” cause this engine is a true triple-7 moment
Pretty much
i’ve never done numberboards yet and I think you’re the first person that actually showed how to renumber them so thank you! If you’re worried about the paint when you remove the numberboard decal, they are removable I’m pretty sure. I think they are glued with a soft tacky glue so the do come off. I found this out because an athearn genesis gp38 I got had crooked numberboard and they were popping off.
Smokebox graphics makes actual reflective stickers. I like to use them on my cars and locomotives it adds a nice detail.
Amazing craftsmanship! Weathering can completely change the look of a locomotive, love the video!
Please keep making more of these videos. This is amazing.
Excellent post. Very easy to follow. Looks like a quality airbrush will be on this years Christmas wish list! Thank you.
Your weathering techniques certainly do produce a very authentic and credible result. Thanks for producing and sharing this very informative video.
Great weathering video. Although SP units were fairly new when UP took over. I won't be weathering them but your video is a great reference point for other Athearn engines.
bro is the king of weathering
good mastery of the air brush. I can only get air or blobs out of mine. Have tried various models but all the same. Appreciate the speed up of the redundant and boring stuff.
I model spring/summer 2008, and while the FRA reflective tape became mandatory in 2005, there were timetables for implementation that didn't mandate every single locomotive and piece of rolling stock get them overnight. 100% implementation on all rolling stock wasn't required until 2015 (2010 for locomotives), so I actually have a mix of cars that have and don't have the stripes in my fleet. For the most part I use prototype photos to determine if the item I'm currently working on would have had them, and if so where.
Looks great! Thanks for showing us the process! -Mike
Great video! Picked up some good takeaways from it. Thanks!
Outstanding work...
FANTASTIC work here. Great attention to detail. I'll use some of these techniques myself 👍
I always use water based acrylics for the grime wash, as it doesn't remove any previous paintwork.
Looks awesome as always Kyle!!
Thanks man!! I appreciate it!
Great modeling and weathering...hopefully you do some other models
Nice layout and locomotives
for removing the handrails and grab bars i suggest a pair of tweezers or miniature pair of pliers, works great for me 😁
That looks real good 👍
Nice job
Interesting video, good to see some techniques before I tackle my own Warbonnet. I like the way the white fade coat lightened the silver and turned the red bonnet to pink.
A couple of observations: applying the dark panel wash at the beginning would have prevented the problem you encountered when you tried to take the excess paint off later. Also, you re-applied the handrails but left them in a virginal condition, most photos I have looked at of the locos show at least some grime build-up in the stanchion recess particularly on the lower end.
Keep the videos coming!
Thanks for the tips! I used to do the wash last as I wasn't sure if the fade would blend it in too much although seeing as though I essentially did the wash first in the video I'll have to do it first going forward. I'll probably hit the handrails with a wash going forward as well, or just reinstall them after the wash and hit them with the airbrush along with the rest of the locomotive
@@kylescustomtrains perhaps even an application of weathering powder with a tiny brush would work on the stanchions?
Also, the virginal safety stripes on the dirty, faded locomotive.
Beautiful work .. I do not have the guts to attempt this!! looks great but I just can't !!! U lose me at disassembly.. I have very little patience for small parts . so I love thru guys like you that do such great jobs !!
Nice work
That's awesome. I can't see me having the hands or skills to pull it off but very cool.
Very nice overall job ! I would prefer seeing you putting more accurate couplers but I like the way you're handling it. I'm doing jobs like this but on some older engines. It shows everybody how complicated it can be and that it needs time and skills to do it. Keep on you're good work.
Thanks! Wish I could use more prototypical couplers although the track at my club isn't very even and if the couplers are too small it'll separate the train
@@kylescustomtrains Ahhhhhh !!! Train clubs. I've learned a lot there but god preserves me from beeing part of another club for the rest of my life. If there's a place to get frustrated... Train clubs. No one is working the same way and no one is working at the same speed. At least I know why you're still using KD #5. Keep on your good work.
Nice GE weathering!
Amazing thanks for sharing 😃
I thought your weathering results were great, but what really impressed me were the graffitied grain cars at the end of the video. I was just wondering why I never saw any graffiti in any videos and how it would add more realism to the layout!
Looks awesome! I'd love to see a video of you adding the graffiti to your train cars.
Thanks! I was thinking of making a graffiti how to vid so hopefully I'll get around to it soon!
Nice, let's see more of your trains running, ☺️👌😁👍 Do have the B 50 series locos warbonnet, and have you weathered them?????? I believe these are the cabless engines, and ONLY EQUIPPED WITH 4 axels. GREAT VIDEO 👋🥺😁👍
Love the railcar graffiti
Do you do anything to protect the electrical components in the wheel sets during weathering or have to do anything afterward to ensure good electrical connection between track & locomotive?
Often times I will have to clean the wheels on the locomotive if too much paint finds it's way back there, although it isn't too difficult to remove with a little bit of rubbing alcohol and a q-tip
GIVE IT TO ME IM DROOLING ITS SO BEAUTIFUL!!
What air pressure are you running on your brush??
So I model UPRR
If I wanted I wanted to take that yellow and make it look faded/20yrs on the road look, would you recommend spraying on that white?
Recently I've had more luck with an sand/tan color paint which looks pretty much the same as a white fade with less paint clumps visible. I'd say a few coats of that would work just as well if not better on yellow than white would
@@kylescustomtrains If you're getting clumping on a fade coat, dilute the paint more, and use a high-quality modelling acrylic like Tamiya or Vallejo. I find that gives a much more uniform result than random craft acrylics.
Looks life like - amazing now we need graffiti on box cars .
I would like to know please the kind of dullcoat you're using ?
It's a Testors spray dullcote that can be picked up at hobby lobby
@@kylescustomtrains Hi again. Some are using Testors. Some are using Vallejo (I herd it's the best). I tried it. Not what I thought it would be. I've started using Testors at the end of the 90's. I got frustrated of the result so many times. I switched to Tamiya flat clear and I'm VERY satisfied since.
What if you have trackmaster? If you don't have Bachmann
No lo se Rick, hay detalles que no cuadran con los trabajos subidos a la página.
Great work and eye for attention!!!!!! Do you guys have your club in Livingston, MT???????
Thank you! And yes that is the club in Livingston
Where is the club located and is it open to public???????
@@kvcroff it's at the Depot under the wine shop and it's open to the public on Tuesdays and Saturdays from 7:30-9
I, have used weathered chalks before.
I just throw them around in the dirt and then wipe it off. works pretty well.
The first thing I noticed was the triple 7
Could you use the basics from this video on n scale
Yep, these methods work well for any scale
Looks good at arm's length but I think you went way too heavy on the trucks and fuel tank -- especially all that thick brown overspray from doing the trucks. Road vehicles splash dirt up the sides from the wheels because the wheels come right to the edge of the vehicle; rail wheels are ~5ft apart under a vehicle that's ~10ft wide, so you don't get splashing like that.
Y Athearn have lit number boards on the dash 9s an not on the ES44's
The Dash 9s have been newly tooled for Genesis but Athearn is coming out with a new run of Gevos that have been updated to meet the new higher detail standards of Genesis and will have pretty much all the same features as the dash 9s like lit numberboards, roller bearing trucks, ground lights, etc.
Wow I’ve always been interested in model trains, I’m a locomotive engineer for Union Pacific, 25 years and I still don’t have a train set 😂
Haha! I farm and I’ll be darn if I want to come home and work on an old antique tractor. 😂 That is why I do model RRing. Back in the 80’s when I got out of college you couldn’t hire out on the RR so I just started my own(HO scale) 😉
@@Grainexpress nice! I can’t wait to retire from my job
Start taking a full-size locomotive home with you, one bolt at a time.
oh god
No one:
Absolutely no one:
Me: Unstoppable
You could’ve made that into awvr 777
I saw a CSX version of Triple 7 in Real Life before
Bello 👍👋👋.
i thought the thumbnail was trainz for a second
washer fluid ?
As in windshield washer fluid
@@kylescustomtrains nice work but LOL we don't have window washing fluid in our locomotives
@@pacset2 which railroad is that? I have seen that it is a thing on at least some BNSF locomotives
@Kyle's Custom Trains BNSF calif division and if we do have them they don't work. Lol
@@pacset2 asked a few of my engineer buddies and the consensus seems to be that EMD doesn't have it to begin with and GE has it overall although you'd be lucky if it works/was filled
Do you weather trains as a business?
More of a side hustle at this point in time but I usually make a profit on the stuff I do sell
Why do the number boards say 767
767 was the number the model came with from the factory, I waited to renumber those to demonstrate my techniques in the video
@@kylescustomtrains you should do bnsf 4729 when it had a war bonnet in the middle
@@Operator1652 definitely one I'd like to model, just got other projects I'd like to finish before hand
@@kylescustomtrains ok
Ummmmmm
危情时速？
This setup looks expensive.
Just noticed after liking your video that I was the 777th like lol
But 777 is awvr right not bnsf
The number is specific to the railroad that owns the engine.
777 (in the movie) is from AWVR. In reality, 777 is actually from Canadian Pacific, and had a twin. One was in perfect condition, and one was weathered, numbered 9777 and 9782 respectively.
Why is it 767 777
I renumber the number boards a little ways through the video ;)
@@kylescustomtrains missed opportunity to say you “combined the two locomotives from Unstoppable”. The joke isn’t exactly accurate, but I’m sure some people would get the reference, like some people in the comments. But still, good video overall, the end product looks really good!
meh...
I don't care for the 3D printed PTC antennas, so far I've seen too many with the warp in the middle. Even in N scale, possibly worse than in HO.
Weathering cars and engines are no good. Stop ruining those pieces of good equipment!
thank, you for you're video. HO Scale. [GRACELAND FARM. INC. LLC. EST. 1900s] EAST COAST VA. 🇺🇸