He was just trying to be friendly about it! It's not like he was going to beat his dog down. He's more than likely a dog lover like most people in the world. Personally I was enjoying how friendly he was towards his dog. Because I have seen how some people are towards their pets. And they are a part of the family too! And you should show some compassion to all of your pets
My son is in the market so I have been watching you to get up to speed. I worked one type of construction or another for over 30 years and never realized the importance of ballast on a tractor. Cranes yes but not tractors. I really appreciate your policy on mandatory ballast on every purchase. Well done.
New tractor owner here. New to tractors and we recently purchased a JD 2025R. After searching to understand how much ballast I needed for our tractor I cam across your video, very educational for new comers. I am surprised my dealer didn't even mention that the MINIMUM ballast weight was in the loader manual. They did load the tires but it is no where near enough according to the manual. Thanks for sharing this info! ( and all of the other videos you have published)
I've never given a moment of thought to this topic until now. A strong argument can be made for safety regarding the need for ballast weight no matter the form it takes. Yet another compelling and educational contribution. Once again, great job.
Ballast box was my first purchase. When I took my rake off that came with my tractor I could feel the difference and knew I needed one. Excellent video.
Excellent content and education as usual sir! Many new tractor owners don't realize the importance and safety of proper ballast. My dealership never even mentioned it when I bought my 2025r. Thanks again Courtney.
I was just going to mention that yes ballas weight is very important! I have an older smaller tractor with a 2 cylinder Diesel engine. And with a bucket loader on front. And I have loaded it up full and needs to be lowered each time I pick up a full scoop because it seems like it is to top heavy to travel with it loaded up. And how much i wish that I had the extra weight on it. So thank you for sharing this with us
Excellent coverage on this critical topic. Good on you for making a ballast plan a mandatory part of your sales. IMHO, making a ballast plan part of every tractor sale is just another example of why you’re one of the guys I turn to for no BS advice and knowledge.
I drove fork lifts when I was straight out of school, they are basically a block of ballast with a motor, but when you're loading a semi, have all your concentration on a 1000kg pallet up above the cab and drop a front wheel into a pothole in the yard, it can get you puckering. That 1000kg dead weight can easily turn into a 1500-2000N push in an unexpected direction, so weight keeping all 4 corners on the ground is a good thing. I'd also add that suitcase have the advantage of being able to be shifted to the front if you want to run a heavy implement, but also leave the loader in the shed.
You may well have saved me from a serious accident! Since purchasing my 3033R w/ 320R loader, I had thought the rear tire ballast was sufficient. That is because my JD dealer told me so. Then I watched your video and checked the specs myself. Thank you!
I guess everyone who has ever spent any time operating a tractor with a loader knows how much can be accomplished with it. And, sooner or later we find that point of limitation, where things go terribly wrong, because the load is too heavy or too high, or we didn't see that rut in the weeds. You are very wise to push ballast boxes with every sale, very wise!
My dad bought a brand new 1997 Kubota l4200. It would have been nice if I had seen this video 25 years ago because even with loaded tires I still put it on its side with a bucket full of mud. Luckily I wasn't hurt and my neighbor was able to hook a chain on with his tractor and pull it upright with minimum cosmetic damage. The real scary thing was that I only had the bucket about headlight high and it was pretty flat ground. I had just dug a bit of a whole and I was backing out of it and over it went. The tractor was only a year or two old then. It still runs great and I moved a lot of snow with it this past winter. I am planning to cut the bucket off and weld on quick attach paddles in a few weeks however. I will add however that I am a little partial to German Shorthair's but your dog is a good addition to your video.
An another interesting trade-off is that wheel weights and filled tires don't put any strain on the frame/axles of your tractor, while hanging weight off the backs makes it so that the weight has to go through the frame. On the other side, weighted wheels will not reduce the stresses on your front axle while the further your ballast hangs behind the back axle, the more it will life up the front. But again, it'll strain the mid frame of your tractor, which is not a wise idea on some (old) models
I was looking at things to put in the ballast box for my 1025r. Stone or concrete seemed like good options. Then I had an idea. I am a firearms enthusiast and in addition to reloading my own ammo, I also cast bullets out of scrap lead. I simply put an empty cat litter bucket in the weight box and put about 300 pounds of wheel weight ingots in the bucket and closed the lid. The lid keeps the weather away from the ingots. Two waterproof bags of 100 pounds of range scrap on either side of the lead bucket keeps it from moving side to side. A free 500 pound load for the ballast box!
This was definitely eye opening. I did also expound upon this in another post. One item that was posted in the online manual was the minimum tread width when using the loader with the ballast charts. My rims are reversible but a person should make shire they do that before filling the tires. Also great idea for people to check JD website for manuals. I have noticed that the do publish some revisions that might not be in your hard copy. One of mine that was different was a rockshaft filter on my 2520. Rock on Courtney
Excellent tips, Courtney! I was fortunate enough to have learned about ballast from some excellent UA-cam’s before I bought my tractor last spring. Think I did OK but I’m definitely going to double check the manual to see if I hit the minimum! Really appreciate you making the time to create videos on these important subjects.
With my former tractor I went to a used sporting goods store and bought 45 pound weight lifting plates to put in my ballast box. They fit nicely and it was very economical. Once the plates were in I filled the entire box with sand.
I am a firm believer in weight. I have fluid filled tires and 990lbs of wheel weights on my M series Kubota. Also have a 1000 pound 3pt weight. I like the weighted wheels for pulling balers on our steep ground but the 3pt weight is what really helps with loader counter weight. Good video I really enjoyed it!
To calculate the relative effectiveness of different ballast configurations, multiply weight x distance from the pivot point (hence pound feet of torque.) So a 900 pound cab mounted 5 feet behind the front axle = 900# x 5’ = 4500#ft. A 450 pound weight mounted 10’ behind the front axle on the 3 point hitch = 450# x 10’ = 4500#ft. If the loader is 9’ in front of the axle, 4500#ft / 9’ = 500#. Using this unlikely geometry, you see how either a 900# cab or a 450# weight cancels out a 500# load in the bucket. If the loader is half as far forward of the axle, (4.5’ in front of the axle) 4500#ft / 4.5’ = 1000# load in the bucket.
I ride motorcycles, and drive with trailers a lot. So in those area you have to think about loading and balance and offset of weight. Also compensating for load amounts to make the vehicle handle properly. I've also spent time with small aircraft pilots. And they really have to think about CG on their aircraft or they will become uncontrollable. Most people have no clue about how much weight changes vehicle movement and handling.
Very nicely done, your getting quite good at this. 👍🏻 You explained why you would want ballast, where you may want to put it, and described different types of ballasting options for different applications. Great job man, not enough new comers out there know about properly blasting their equipment and it’s essential that they know to keep themselves and others safe. I also like how you showed where to find it in the Manual as well. Great video!
Just bought a John Deere 3025e. Will get it end of month. Can’t wait. Very informative video. Thank you for that. As I have a backhoe on it it’ll probably be enough ballast weight. Also I need to figure out what I will do with it. First tractor! Hours of (safe) fun ahead for sure!
Excellent video. I agree that the ballast needs to be sorted at point of sale. TTTim and I disagreed on that. He didn't care for additional regulation being placed on the manufacturers Great that you aren't waiting for regulations to be created. I'm sure you know that many compact tractor buyers have never owned a Tractor before and don't understand the need for ballast. Sure the info is all in the manual but I doubt many actually read and understand the entire manual They are like one of my neighbours who moved from the city to this rural area about ten years ago. He bought a shiny new JD 2032 with loader but no ballast other than fluid in tires. 2 hrs after delivery it was on its side and he was in emerg! He flipped it two more times in the next few years and was injured each time. I had a good look at the tractor last year when pulling it out of a mudhole. It is still unballasted. I had a discussion about this with his widow, hopefully they will act on it. Glen
Fantastic video! When I bought my JD 2320 used, I was not educated on ballast. After a few very interesting moments, I started looking for a solution. I researched many of what you mentioned and came up with my own very economical cost per lb plan. I have 310lbs of barbell weight discs with the 50lb quick hitch. The weights slide onto a solid 1 in bar. I made a frame with 4x4s for lowering them onto when they are not on the tractor. These are only half my weights but this seems to be sufficient for most anything I do. I had photo already, but could not see where I can add it to this comment.
I welded on a plate to my box blade to add on six 50lb weight lifting weights, so an extra 300lb onto the weight of the box blade. It also adds some extra down force to dig into the tough NM ground. Only issue is the width of the box blade makes going through gates a tight squeeze. But till I make a dedicated ballast box this will work.
I learned about the importance of ballast weight playing Farming Simulator of all things. I went to lift a pallet of stuff and I did a front wheelie. The goods never got off the ground. Good thing I wasn't doing it IRL or it could have been much worse.
Some things to think about. The front axle on s topical tractor has a pivot point in the middle a payloader is on the rear axle so if a topical tractor starts to tip forward there's really nothing to keep it from leaning sideways till it hits the axle pivot stop by then it's generally to late. A payloader can top forward and the front axle Will keep it from leaning sideways but only to s point. Something articulated the rear half of machine moves changing center of gravity. So be careful. One other thing to think about is if your hauling concrete in the bucket it fluid it will slosh from side to side going over bumps. I made a shute just for this purpose and weight isn't s problem it the fluid sloshing. I told the local dealer to never sell a loader tractor with out something figured in for ballast.
I use the box blade as my ballast - heavy, sticking backwards and complementary to the loader when moving dirt, gravel, etc. Almost tipped sideways once carrying a full load at tractor hood height - no more moving stuff w/o my 600 pound box blade behind me. I have two tractors and both have their own box blades to counter the loaders.
Awesome video, ironically you put this out 3 days after trying to figure proper weight, mostly the maximum, as the JD owner manual is rather vague. Thanks for the info, keep making these great videos!
Using your SpeeCo quick hitch. I have two implements that match up, just altered a ballast box for my BX, and made connectors for an eBay box blade. Running close to 500# really changes the feel using the loader.
I know it doesn't necessarily follow the guidelines, but my preferred method is liquid ballast in the tires, and a full set of wheel weights. That way the 3 point is freed up for whatever attachment I need.
Very informative and knowledgeable as usual. Thank you. Very interesting. I just leave the backhoe on all the time for weight. Would love to check out some of these other options someday though. You do a great job but Rosie still steals the show. 😂 Keep it up! 👍
I found the cheapest route for me was to hang a car carrier rack of the hitch I have mounted on my 3pt on my bx .got the sand tubes,wrapped in contractors trash bags and duct taped the heck out of them,,makes them a lil more durable,they way 70 lbs each,right around 5 dollars each,the carrier holds 6 nicely..I have had no issues with them staying in place..not completely sure of the longevity but have been using these bags for a few years..maybe it's in my head but seems to be better stability with the weight being pretty much the width of my axle being distributed evenly.
Jd 4600 and 4720. Almost tipped it back in the day. Then added: Ballast box or box blade or chipper, 5 weights each side, and around 550# per tire. Each side. So 2200# without anything on the back. Overkill- yes. Maybe hurt the bearings- maybe. Be alive to change bearings. Definitely.
Good job . I used -20 degrees wind shield washer fluid in my back tires just did this last week . 30 gallons in each tire 8 pounds per gallon For a total of approximately 480 lbs. Added to back.of tractor . Fluid was just over $2 per gallon. Not very expensive.
Interesting that the 1025R needs wheel weights plus 350Kg. The rated limit of the 3pt on the 1025R is 309Kg (at 24 inches)! Well thought out on John Deere's part.
Great idea to have your customers put a plan in place for the ballast weight. It's so overlooked by novice operators. Where did your John Deere clock go?
I have a 80 deere 420 which I added a rear box but my thoughts are adding rear weight that's close to the front bucket or more then once raising the rear higher it will increase the lifting amount. I have wheel weights with the box but I still need more rear weight. I have the little buck loader. I can't afford the bigger unit so I stay with my old beast until one day I'm to old to use it. Your channels always been great
Good video. I know most of us are under weight for loader work. Have you heard any down side to the newer liquid ballistic like rim rot / rust? I know when we loaded our tires with Calcium that was an issue.
Most modern tractors regardless of manufacturer are lighter in the rear. They are usually aluminum cast not as in the past were cast iron. Use ballist it will keep you safer..
I have a "Low Hour" @ 1949hrs, Kubota L3450 with a Kubota LA650A Loader that I bought good used. It does have the rear tires full of liquid ballast. Suggestions for any more rear ballast? I am thinking of getting a HeavyHitch 3 point Double Weight Bracket, but need suggestion on how may 70lb "suitcase" weights to add, or other weights. THANKS, and GREAT channel!
Nice video! One concern I have is that I use my tractor for a lot of yard work and am concerned about tearing and rutting up my lawn. Any thoughts on this? I cringe to think about adding a bunch of weight and then trying to aerate and fertilize.
Build a box from cheap ply get it to mount to your three-point or quik attach & make sure the steel for mounting sticks deeply into the box. With the thing on the three-point hitch fill the box with concrete. Size the box this way One Cubic Foot of Concrete is 150 pounds.
Using ballast in just the rear tires can be hard on the front axle if lifting heavy weight with the loader. If loading ballast to do heavy front end lifting, you want weight behind the back wheels. I dont look at the teeter totter on the front wheels, I consider the rear wheels as the balance point. More weight behind the rear tires will take weight off the front axle. No rear ballast, your balance point is the front axle struggling to balance the weight of the rear and the load.
Aww come on stop for a min and give the dog some love! that is all he/she wants! Don't fell bad mine won't let me type. they lift my hands off the keyboard.
I have a TYM 494. It has 1300 pounds of beet juice in the rear tires. And a 700 pound box blade on it. And me. I'm a 250 pound counter weight. Grand total of 2250 pounds.
I have a 1023e with the 120r loader and use a 5 foot box blade that I hang suitcase weights on for ballast. Once I add some liquid fill to the tires i should be good to go.
How does the liquid ballast affect the steel rims over time? I'd think it would shorten the life of them being encased internally with any liquid even if they are painted (which I doubt the inside is). I haven't chosen to do liquid ballast for that reason. Also, what is the approximate cost of the ballast box and suitcase weights depicted on your tractor there? Thanks!
No issues. Recommended ballast solution from all manufacturers. One of the reasons you fill at least 3/4 is to completely cover the rim in solution. No air gets to it that way. Make sure you install metal valve stems. Rubber will tend to rot out. Probably $1,100-1,200 including the suitcase weights. Those things are very expensive.
From my experience using liquid ballast for my 1962 IH 275 loaded with liquid calcium on all four tires, I don't think I would recommend this configuration. Having said that I am aware that there other types of liquid ballast available, but the cost is staggering. I purchased the tractor with the ballast already in place, and since owning the unit for over 12 years, I now have issues of major rot on the edges of several rims, and the brass valve stems leak. It's not really an issue for me per say since I only use the tractor for snowblowing. What is a pain now for me is that I have to park the unit, jack the front and rear off the ground in order to remove the weight off of the wheels, then support the tractor with jacks on all for points, and position each tire valve to the top. So it is a bit of a pain to do each and every time. Obviously the tires and valves are slowly leaking, but I just don't have the time or money to evacuate the liquid calcium, and all the other procedures that are necessary. I know that I will have to purchase replacement rims on all fours, an expensive and labor intensive job. Looking forward I think I will try and find wheel weights for each rim, however I do know that the wheel weights will not provide as much ballast as loading the tires, so any comments on this would be appreciated. Perhaps I am incorrect on this??
@@patrickwalker5329 Yes, a mixture of calcium chloride without enough water mixed in is a recipe for disaster. The John Deere manuals make their recommendation on I think it's a 4 to 1 ratio to prevent this issue. Additionally, they call for the solution to cover the entire rim. Lastly, my local dealer always swaps out rubber valve stems with steel as the rubber will rot out.
I have the 120r loader for my 1025R JD. I also have the quick hitch and the " heavy hitch " with 6 x 42 lbs weights. After watching this video ( very good info - again ) it seems I do not have sufficient counter weight system on my tractor to operate the loader safely ? I am still in snow blowing mode here in Ontario , and will be for another 3 to 4 weeks so I won't be needing the loader yet. The heavy hitch uses the 42 lb weights, so even if I get another two , which I have room for , it still doesn't meet the minimum. Any suggestions? Thanks Rick
okay so I'm new to the whole compact tractor world. I purchased a used 755 over the summer. I recently used the front end loader to haul some light brush and small trees from an area I cleared out for my parents. I also used the loader to grade out a small patio pad for my cousin. After using it I parked it in the garage and came back out about an hour later and had oil running from both front knuckles. I knew it was the seals but I have been told I need counter weight on the back when using the front end loader otherwise the seals will get destroyed. Any input on this and if I would load the rear tires if that would help?
I have owned my 1025r for 4 years now, and used the loader on #2 stone, lots of loaders full, as well as top soil and lighter stuff like mulch. I have only loaded tires, and have never had any issue even with stone as full as you can load it up in the H120. Maybe I could use some more weight in the back, but I have not needed it so far. Just my input, from a guy who has & uses a 1025r loader.
My one friend bought an allen hay rake from out west and we live here in michigan. He rented a 6 x 20ft tandem equipment trl. The inside tires had to sit in c channel extensions. Really needed a deck over. Got it home and another friend came over with a ford 5000 diesel with loader. Picked the rake up sorta so we had to pull the trl out from under and boom the the rake went down and the butt was in the air
One thing I found interesting is that my Kubota B2650 manual does not specify a max or min ballast weight. It’s also contradictory: “...the ballast should be removed when not needed. The weight should be added to the tractor in the form of liquid ballast.” How is that easy to remove?? I have soft ground, so I went with a ballast box and a mix of granite and sand.
Update: My LA435A loader manual doesn't specify a specific weight either. "The amount of rear ballast will depend on the application." The only specific amount I see anywhere is on the ballast box that says "Add 500 lbs. for B-Series"
I think ballast boxes are a waste of money and function. The back of your tractor is totally useless when using a ballast box. My solution was I filled a 110 lb 9" diameter argon cylinder with concrete, welded on brackets and mounted horizontally to the top, rear of my 6' boxblade. The cylinder added 320 lbs. of weight to the 500 lb. boxblade and the mounted rear attachment is 820 lbs. and is still a functional attachment. This goes along with some of what you said. Good videos, thumbs up.
My spec for my tractor says 600 lb counter weight is needed. I had my tractor tires file with foam years ago. It added 500 lb to my tires and I can Not get a flat tire. On construction sites that is a must have. I also always have an attachment on the back. 250 - 1000 lb
I got right at 900 # of weight on my 3 point hitch when doing loader work with my JD4200 and my dealer says I got to much I think they just want to sell you new tractor after you flip over your tractor
I got 1025r I cut hill in West Virginia with moving brunch hog I keep my bucket on it light on front end. Can I put fluid in front tire. You can't steered there not weight. On front end. Not blouses right ever drive up and down road with brushes up
I recommend a Great Plains quick hitch plus the top link is adjustable. If you’re looking for a cheap one harbor freight has one and it isn’t to bad but it’s what you expect from a $99 hitch
@@GoodWorksTractors They lost in a rollover lawsuit because a dealer sold a tractor without ballast box. Suit claimed dealer knowingly sent tractor home not ready for loader work. Basically, a real problem they plagues the backyard farmers that don't know anything about tractors. In any case, a jury agreed. Google it for more details. Deere is appealing.
@@JustinHEMI05 that is a shame. I assume the operator was stupid? That jury should have asked if he got, read, and understood the manual. If he didn't get a manual from the dealer for the tractor than I can understand.
No apology necessary. Your loving pooch is actually a key player in the channel.
Personally, I doubt his sincerity;)
@@superdupergrover9857 what raises doubt?
@@chefmatthammerschmidt8408 I was being facetious, although he does seem to enjoy petting his dog an awful lot to be apologetic.
He was just trying to be friendly about it! It's not like he was going to beat his dog down. He's more than likely a dog lover like most people in the world. Personally I was enjoying how friendly he was towards his dog. Because I have seen how some people are towards their pets. And they are a part of the family too! And you should show some compassion to all of your pets
My son is in the market so I have been watching you to get up to speed. I worked one type of construction or another for over 30 years and never realized the importance of ballast on a tractor. Cranes yes but not tractors. I really appreciate your policy on mandatory ballast on every purchase. Well done.
New tractor owner here. New to tractors and we recently purchased a JD 2025R. After searching to understand how much ballast I needed for our tractor I cam across your video, very educational for new comers. I am surprised my dealer didn't even mention that the MINIMUM ballast weight was in the loader manual. They did load the tires but it is no where near enough according to the manual.
Thanks for sharing this info! ( and all of the other videos you have published)
I've never given a moment of thought to this topic until now. A strong argument can be made for safety regarding the need for ballast weight no matter the form it takes. Yet another compelling and educational contribution. Once again, great job.
Pretty crazy howuch ballast is needed. Thanks as always Lea!
Ballast box was my first purchase. When I took my rake off that came with my tractor I could feel the difference and knew I needed one. Excellent video.
Thanks for watching John!
Excellent content and education as usual sir! Many new tractor owners don't realize the importance and safety of proper ballast. My dealership never even mentioned it when I bought my 2025r. Thanks again Courtney.
I was just going to mention that yes ballas weight is very important! I have an older smaller tractor with a 2 cylinder Diesel engine. And with a bucket loader on front. And I have loaded it up full and needs to be lowered each time I pick up a full scoop because it seems like it is to top heavy to travel with it loaded up. And how much i wish that I had the extra weight on it. So thank you for sharing this with us
Excellent coverage on this critical topic. Good on you for making a ballast plan a mandatory part of your sales. IMHO, making a ballast plan part of every tractor sale is just another example of why you’re one of the guys I turn to for no BS advice and knowledge.
I drove fork lifts when I was straight out of school, they are basically a block of ballast with a motor, but when you're loading a semi, have all your concentration on a 1000kg pallet up above the cab and drop a front wheel into a pothole in the yard, it can get you puckering.
That 1000kg dead weight can easily turn into a 1500-2000N push in an unexpected direction, so weight keeping all 4 corners on the ground is a good thing.
I'd also add that suitcase have the advantage of being able to be shifted to the front if you want to run a heavy implement, but also leave the loader in the shed.
Good input, thanks 👍
You may well have saved me from a serious accident! Since purchasing my 3033R w/ 320R loader, I had thought the rear tire ballast was sufficient. That is because my JD dealer told me so. Then I watched your video and checked the specs myself. Thank you!
Very glad to hear that you caught it before anything serious happened. Now be sure to spread the word to fellow tractor owners! Thanks for watching!
I guess everyone who has ever spent any time operating a tractor with a loader knows how much can be accomplished with it. And, sooner or later we find that point of limitation, where things go terribly wrong, because the load is too heavy or too high, or we didn't see that rut in the weeds. You are very wise to push ballast boxes with every sale, very wise!
Great point about the hidden ruts or holes. They come out of nowhere!
My dad bought a brand new 1997 Kubota l4200. It would have been nice if I had seen this video 25 years ago because even with loaded tires I still put it on its side with a bucket full of mud. Luckily I wasn't hurt and my neighbor was able to hook a chain on with his tractor and pull it upright with minimum cosmetic damage. The real scary thing was that I only had the bucket about headlight high and it was pretty flat ground. I had just dug a bit of a whole and I was backing out of it and over it went. The tractor was only a year or two old then. It still runs great and I moved a lot of snow with it this past winter. I am planning to cut the bucket off and weld on quick attach paddles in a few weeks however. I will add however that I am a little partial to German Shorthair's but your dog is a good addition to your video.
An another interesting trade-off is that wheel weights and filled tires don't put any strain on the frame/axles of your tractor, while hanging weight off the backs makes it so that the weight has to go through the frame.
On the other side, weighted wheels will not reduce the stresses on your front axle while the further your ballast hangs behind the back axle, the more it will life up the front. But again, it'll strain the mid frame of your tractor, which is not a wise idea on some (old) models
I was looking at things to put in the ballast box for my 1025r. Stone or concrete seemed like good options. Then I had an idea. I am a firearms enthusiast and in addition to reloading my own ammo, I also cast bullets out of scrap lead. I simply put an empty cat litter bucket in the weight box and put about 300 pounds of wheel weight ingots in the bucket and closed the lid. The lid keeps the weather away from the ingots. Two waterproof bags of 100 pounds of range scrap on either side of the lead bucket keeps it from moving side to side. A free 500 pound load for the ballast box!
This was definitely eye opening. I did also expound upon this in another post. One item that was posted in the online manual was the minimum tread width when using the loader with the ballast charts. My rims are reversible but a person should make shire they do that before filling the tires. Also great idea for people to check JD website for manuals. I have noticed that the do publish some revisions that might not be in your hard copy. One of mine that was different was a rockshaft filter on my 2520. Rock on Courtney
Thanks again Mike. Some valuable insight!
Enjoyed the video, so far, had to pause it momentarily...will watch the remainder in an hour or so. Kubota L6060 with cab. Liberty Maine
Excellent tips, Courtney! I was fortunate enough to have learned about ballast from some excellent UA-cam’s before I bought my tractor last spring. Think I did OK but I’m definitely going to double check the manual to see if I hit the minimum! Really appreciate you making the time to create videos on these important subjects.
Thanks Larry!
With my former tractor I went to a used sporting goods store and bought 45 pound weight lifting plates to put in my ballast box. They fit nicely and it was very economical. Once the plates were in I filled the entire box with sand.
Nice!
I am a firm believer in weight. I have fluid filled tires and 990lbs of wheel weights on my M series Kubota. Also have a 1000 pound 3pt weight. I like the weighted wheels for pulling balers on our steep ground but the 3pt weight is what really helps with loader counter weight. Good video I really enjoyed it!
Thanks so much!
To calculate the relative effectiveness of different ballast configurations, multiply weight x distance from the pivot point (hence pound feet of torque.) So a 900 pound cab mounted 5 feet behind the front axle = 900# x 5’ = 4500#ft. A 450 pound weight mounted 10’ behind the front axle on the 3 point hitch = 450# x 10’ = 4500#ft. If the loader is 9’ in front of the axle, 4500#ft / 9’ = 500#. Using this unlikely geometry, you see how either a 900# cab or a 450# weight cancels out a 500# load in the bucket. If the loader is half as far forward of the axle, (4.5’ in front of the axle) 4500#ft / 4.5’ = 1000# load in the bucket.
Good info. The cab must add some weight as ballast. But, the cab also raises the center of gravity increasing the need for counter weights.
Yeah, about a 900 lb weight difference. Does definitely raise the COG.
Nice dog, he is really, really concerned that you are talking to yourself.....:LOL
😂👍
Cool dog. Keep him in all of your videos. Good information, thank you!!!!😎🇺🇸
I ride motorcycles, and drive with trailers a lot. So in those area you have to think about loading and balance and offset of weight. Also compensating for load amounts to make the vehicle handle properly. I've also spent time with small aircraft pilots. And they really have to think about CG on their aircraft or they will become uncontrollable.
Most people have no clue about how much weight changes vehicle movement and handling.
Good info for sure!
Very nicely done, your getting quite good at this. 👍🏻 You explained why you would want ballast, where you may want to put it, and described different types of ballasting options for different applications. Great job man, not enough new comers out there know about properly blasting their equipment and it’s essential that they know to keep themselves and others safe. I also like how you showed where to find it in the Manual as well. Great video!
Thanks man. I appreciate it!
Another great educational video - With your tractor (as in life) balance is paramount - Thanks Courtney
Another Great Video. I did purchase the ballast wrack but from Titan. I also just ordered the bucket tooth set for my Kubota from Heavy Hitch
Nice! Hope these products work out well for you and thanks for following along!
Just bought a John Deere 3025e. Will get it end of month. Can’t wait. Very informative video. Thank you for that. As I have a backhoe on it it’ll probably be enough ballast weight. Also I need to figure out what I will do with it. First tractor! Hours of (safe) fun ahead for sure!
Excellent video.
I agree that the ballast needs to be sorted at point of sale. TTTim and I disagreed on that. He didn't care for additional regulation being placed on the manufacturers
Great that you aren't waiting for regulations to be created.
I'm sure you know that many compact tractor buyers have never owned a Tractor before and don't understand the need for ballast.
Sure the info is all in the manual but I doubt many actually read and understand the entire manual
They are like one of my neighbours who moved from the city to this rural area about ten years ago.
He bought a shiny new JD 2032 with loader but no ballast other than fluid in tires. 2 hrs after delivery it was on its side and he was in emerg!
He flipped it two more times in the next few years and was injured each time.
I had a good look at the tractor last year when pulling it out of a mudhole. It is still unballasted. I had a discussion about this with his widow, hopefully they will act on it.
Glen
Wow, that's a hard lesson
Fantastic video! When I bought my JD 2320 used, I was not educated on ballast. After a few very interesting moments, I started looking for a solution. I researched many of what you mentioned and came up with my own very economical cost per lb plan. I have 310lbs of barbell weight discs with the 50lb quick hitch. The weights slide onto a solid 1 in bar. I made a frame with 4x4s for lowering them onto when they are not on the tractor. These are only half my weights but this seems to be sufficient for most anything I do.
I had photo already, but could not see where I can add it to this comment.
I welded on a plate to my box blade to add on six 50lb weight lifting weights, so an extra 300lb onto the weight of the box blade. It also adds some extra down force to dig into the tough NM ground. Only issue is the width of the box blade makes going through gates a tight squeeze. But till I make a dedicated ballast box this will work.
I learned about the importance of ballast weight playing Farming Simulator of all things. I went to lift a pallet of stuff and I did a front wheelie. The goods never got off the ground. Good thing I wasn't doing it IRL or it could have been much worse.
Some things to think about. The front axle on s topical tractor has a pivot point in the middle a payloader is on the rear axle so if a topical tractor starts to tip forward there's really nothing to keep it from leaning sideways till it hits the axle pivot stop by then it's generally to late. A payloader can top forward and the front axle Will keep it from leaning sideways but only to s point. Something articulated the rear half of machine moves changing center of gravity. So be careful. One other thing to think about is if your hauling concrete in the bucket it fluid it will slosh from side to side going over bumps. I made a shute just for this purpose and weight isn't s problem it the fluid sloshing. I told the local dealer to never sell a loader tractor with out something figured in for ballast.
Good points, thank you Roy!
@@GoodWorksTractors with out experience you'd never know about it
I use the box blade as my ballast - heavy, sticking backwards and complementary to the loader when moving dirt, gravel, etc. Almost tipped sideways once carrying a full load at tractor hood height - no more moving stuff w/o my 600 pound box blade behind me. I have two tractors and both have their own box blades to counter the loaders.
Very informative. I never thought much about any of this. Great video !
Thanks !
Happy to help and thank you for watching!
Awesome video, ironically you put this out 3 days after trying to figure proper weight, mostly the maximum, as the JD owner manual is rather vague. Thanks for the info, keep making these great videos!
Haha glad it helped!
Fluid in the rear tires and adequate bolt on wheel weights, but when using a loader slow and steady on level stable soil. Better than added ballast.
Not better, all your weight is closer to the fulcrum. Much more effective on the three point.
Another great video! I learn more and more from your videos. Keep up the great work! Thanks for sharing...
Thank you sir!
Using your SpeeCo quick hitch. I have two implements that match up, just altered a ballast box for my BX, and made connectors for an eBay box blade. Running close to 500# really changes the feel using the loader.
I know it doesn't necessarily follow the guidelines, but my preferred method is liquid ballast in the tires, and a full set of wheel weights. That way the 3 point is freed up for whatever attachment I need.
Yeah, tying up the three point can be frustrating for sure. Thanks for watching!
Very informative and knowledgeable as usual. Thank you. Very interesting. I just leave the backhoe on all the time for weight. Would love to check out some of these other options someday though. You do a great job but Rosie still steals the show. 😂 Keep it up! 👍
Haha, I know it! She's a great dog! 🐕
I found the cheapest route for me was to hang a car carrier rack of the hitch I have mounted on my 3pt on my bx .got the sand tubes,wrapped in contractors trash bags and duct taped the heck out of them,,makes them a lil more durable,they way 70 lbs each,right around 5 dollars each,the carrier holds 6 nicely..I have had no issues with them staying in place..not completely sure of the longevity but have been using these bags for a few years..maybe it's in my head but seems to be better stability with the weight being pretty much the width of my axle being distributed evenly.
Jd 4600 and 4720. Almost tipped it back in the day. Then added: Ballast box or box blade or chipper, 5 weights each side, and around 550# per tire. Each side. So 2200# without anything on the back. Overkill- yes. Maybe hurt the bearings- maybe. Be alive to change bearings. Definitely.
I added heavy duty casters to my ballast box to be able to move it around in the barn.
Good idea, I've had several ballast boxes with casters on them.
Great job 👍 on the video. Thanks Larry
Thank you Larry!
Good job .
I used -20 degrees wind shield washer fluid in my back tires just did this last week . 30 gallons in each tire 8 pounds per gallon
For a total of approximately
480 lbs. Added to back.of tractor . Fluid was just over $2 per gallon. Not very expensive.
I mainly use weights on my wheels and fill all of my tires on my 450 with beetroot liquid to keep it stable and very close to the ground.
Interesting that the 1025R needs wheel weights plus 350Kg. The rated limit of the 3pt on the 1025R is 309Kg (at 24 inches)! Well thought out on John Deere's part.
Hey that’s a good idea, ballast is something many really don’t consider.
Thanks for watching!
Great info, many thanks!
Great idea to have your customers put a plan in place for the ballast weight. It's so overlooked by novice operators.
Where did your John Deere clock go?
Hey Neal...clock has a grinding noise...oiling it didn't work...next stop --- clock repair guy :(
I have a 80 deere 420 which I added a rear box but my thoughts are adding rear weight that's close to the front bucket or more then once raising the rear higher it will increase the lifting amount. I have wheel weights with the box but I still need more rear weight. I have the little buck loader. I can't afford the bigger unit so I stay with my old beast until one day I'm to old to use it. Your channels always been great
Great info, thanks for posting. But what happened to the JD clock???
Thanks! Making a loud whining noise. Gotta take it in to get fixed.
I baught the harbor freight quick attachment but on your versa attachment you should put removable spear holes in it
Good video. I know most of us are under weight for loader work. Have you heard any down side to the newer liquid ballistic like rim rot / rust? I know when we loaded our tires with Calcium that was an issue.
No, most newer products are used because they won't corrode or freeze.
Most modern tractors regardless of manufacturer are lighter in the rear. They are usually aluminum cast not as in the past were cast iron. Use ballist it will keep you safer..
He is telling you the truth .Stay safe.
I have a "Low Hour" @ 1949hrs, Kubota L3450 with a Kubota LA650A Loader that I bought good used. It does have the rear tires full of liquid ballast. Suggestions for any more rear ballast? I am thinking of getting a HeavyHitch 3 point Double Weight Bracket, but need suggestion on how may 70lb "suitcase" weights to add, or other weights. THANKS, and GREAT channel!
Hi John, thanks for watching. Your manual should make reference to minimum ballast weight requirements.
Nice video! One concern I have is that I use my tractor for a lot of yard work and am concerned about tearing and rutting up my lawn. Any thoughts on this? I cringe to think about adding a bunch of weight and then trying to aerate and fertilize.
Thank for comment I look like put weight on front end like you did suite case.
Build a box from cheap ply get it to mount to your three-point or quik attach & make sure the steel for mounting sticks deeply into the box. With the thing on the three-point hitch fill the box with concrete. Size the box this way One Cubic Foot of Concrete is 150 pounds.
Very important, on my 5065e the back wheels are loaded weight makes the difference!!!
Thanks for watching Mike!
I love your dog!!!
I was never concerned with ballast. I normally have a backhoe on the back. But since I've been using my pto I will load my tires.
Good job. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Great job brother, Band of Brothers and Sisters
Thank you!
Using ballast in just the rear tires can be hard on the front axle if lifting heavy weight with the loader. If loading ballast to do heavy front end lifting, you want weight behind the back wheels. I dont look at the teeter totter on the front wheels, I consider the rear wheels as the balance point. More weight behind the rear tires will take weight off the front axle. No rear ballast, your balance point is the front axle struggling to balance the weight of the rear and the load.
Great information to have .Thanks
Thanks for watching James!
👍🏻 great educational video!
Thank you!
Aww come on stop for a min and give the dog some love! that is all he/she wants!
Don't fell bad mine won't let me type. they lift my hands off the keyboard.
Oh, she get's plenty of it, haha!
@@GoodWorksTractors
But its not enough. Its never enough.
I have a TYM 494. It has 1300 pounds of beet juice in the rear tires. And a 700 pound box blade on it. And me. I'm a 250 pound counter weight. Grand total of 2250 pounds.
Thanks for chiming in!
I have a 1023e with the 120r loader and use a 5 foot box blade that I hang suitcase weights on for ballast. Once I add some liquid fill to the tires i should be good to go.
There ya go, thanks for watching!
How does the liquid ballast affect the steel rims over time? I'd think it would shorten the life of them being encased internally with any liquid even if they are painted (which I doubt the inside is). I haven't chosen to do liquid ballast for that reason. Also, what is the approximate cost of the ballast box and suitcase weights depicted on your tractor there? Thanks!
No issues. Recommended ballast solution from all manufacturers. One of the reasons you fill at least 3/4 is to completely cover the rim in solution. No air gets to it that way. Make sure you install metal valve stems. Rubber will tend to rot out. Probably $1,100-1,200 including the suitcase weights. Those things are very expensive.
From my experience using liquid ballast for my 1962 IH 275 loaded with liquid calcium on all four tires, I don't think I would recommend this configuration. Having said that I am aware that there other types of liquid ballast available, but the cost is staggering. I purchased the tractor with the ballast already in place, and since owning the unit for over 12 years, I now have issues of major rot on the edges of several rims, and the brass valve stems leak. It's not really an issue for me per say since I only use the tractor for snowblowing. What is a pain now for me is that I have to park the unit, jack the front and rear off the ground in order to remove the weight off of the wheels, then support the tractor with jacks on all for points, and position each tire valve to the top. So it is a bit of a pain to do each and every time. Obviously the tires and valves are slowly leaking, but I just don't have the time or money to evacuate the liquid calcium, and all the other procedures that are necessary. I know that I will have to purchase replacement rims on all fours, an expensive and labor intensive job. Looking forward I think I will try and find wheel weights for each rim, however I do know that the wheel weights will not provide as much ballast as loading the tires, so any comments on this would be appreciated. Perhaps I am incorrect on this??
@@patrickwalker5329 Yes, a mixture of calcium chloride without enough water mixed in is a recipe for disaster. The John Deere manuals make their recommendation on I think it's a 4 to 1 ratio to prevent this issue. Additionally, they call for the solution to cover the entire rim. Lastly, my local dealer always swaps out rubber valve stems with steel as the rubber will rot out.
Love your dog!
Would a backhoe attached to the back plus filled tires be a good combo?
Seems like it. Depends how much your backhoe weighs
You have to consider where the how is. If it's to one side it might tip over that way
I have the 120r loader for my 1025R JD. I also have the quick hitch and the " heavy hitch " with 6 x 42 lbs weights. After watching this video ( very good info - again ) it seems I do not have sufficient counter weight system on my tractor to operate the loader safely ? I am still in snow blowing mode here in Ontario , and will be for another 3 to 4 weeks so I won't be needing the loader yet. The heavy hitch uses the 42 lb weights, so even if I get another two , which I have room for , it still doesn't meet the minimum. Any suggestions?
Thanks Rick
You could get wheel weights or liquid in the tires.
Correct
I'm loving the Dog! Lab?
She's a Field Spaniel :)
Cheers for the guide. What about ballast on the front recommendations?
Refer to your manual
okay so I'm new to the whole compact tractor world. I purchased a used 755 over the summer. I recently used the front end loader to haul some light brush and small trees from an area I cleared out for my parents. I also used the loader to grade out a small patio pad for my cousin. After using it I parked it in the garage and came back out about an hour later and had oil running from both front knuckles. I knew it was the seals but I have been told I need counter weight on the back when using the front end loader otherwise the seals will get destroyed. Any input on this and if I would load the rear tires if that would help?
I have owned my 1025r for 4 years now, and used the loader on #2 stone, lots of loaders full, as well as top soil and lighter stuff like mulch. I have only loaded tires, and have never had any issue even with stone as full as you can load it up in the H120. Maybe I could use some more weight in the back, but I have not needed it so far. Just my input, from a guy who has & uses a 1025r loader.
Thanks for chiming in!
My one friend bought an allen hay rake from out west and we live here in michigan. He rented a 6 x 20ft tandem equipment trl. The inside tires had to sit in c channel extensions. Really needed a deck over. Got it home and another friend came over with a ford 5000 diesel with loader. Picked the rake up sorta so we had to pull the trl out from under and boom the the rake went down and the butt was in the air
Thanks for watching!
Another benefit of ballast weight is traction, I noticed my 1025R did not dig well with no weight on the back.
One thing I found interesting is that my Kubota B2650 manual does not specify a max or min ballast weight. It’s also contradictory: “...the ballast should be removed when not needed. The weight should be added to the tractor in the form of liquid ballast.” How is that easy to remove?? I have soft ground, so I went with a ballast box and a mix of granite and sand.
Thanks for chiming in Matt!
Update: My LA435A loader manual doesn't specify a specific weight either. "The amount of rear ballast will depend on the application." The only specific amount I see anywhere is on the ballast box that says "Add 500 lbs. for B-Series"
I think you should have touched on rear impliments like a backhoe or box blade as ballast. Maybe that's another video.
I think ballast boxes are a waste of money and function. The back of your tractor is totally useless when using a ballast box.
My solution was I filled a 110 lb 9" diameter argon cylinder with concrete, welded on brackets and mounted horizontally to the top, rear of my 6' boxblade. The cylinder added 320 lbs. of weight to the 500 lb. boxblade and the mounted rear attachment is 820 lbs. and is still a functional attachment.
This goes along with some of what you said.
Good videos, thumbs up.
Great explanation
Thank you!
Try having a herd of Heelers. They can't stand it when you are doing something else.
Oh yeah, thanks for the vid. Great info.
On the 4066r is there anyway to get to that weight without putting liquid In The tires as in the summer time I can’t take the liquid out off the tires
If it's me weel weights two sets fast hitch rear blade ,foam fill tires for weight we run a grading outfit for years
There ya go!
My spec for my tractor says
600 lb counter weight is needed.
I had my tractor tires file with foam years ago. It added 500 lb to my tires and I can Not get a flat tire.
On construction sites that is a must have.
I also always have an attachment on the back. 250 - 1000 lb
Can you do a video about the cost difference on parts and repairs JD vs Kubota?
I got a new massey ferguson tractor it has a backhoe should i take the pins out when iam not using it or is it ok to leave them in
The pins that prevent leakdown? If so, leave them in
love that dog
I got right at 900 # of weight on my 3 point hitch when doing loader work with my
JD4200 and my dealer says I got to much
I think they just want to sell you new tractor after you flip over your tractor
Seems like they'd go straight to the manual?
I got 1025r I cut hill in West Virginia with moving brunch hog I keep my bucket on it light on front end. Can I put fluid in front tire. You can't steered there not weight. On front end. Not blouses right ever drive up and down road with brushes up
Poor mans ballast for front end while mowing, scoop up a bucket load of dirt or stone before mowing, keep loader low to ground.
I wouldn't put fluid in the fronts if it were me.
Yep, done that many times!
So what’s the actually lifting capacity of the 4066r with all the ballast weight you have?
Here's specs.... www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/007/5/7/7575-john-deere-4066r-attachments.html
Do you recommend an after market 3pt quick hitch or the John Deere name brand version?
I recommend the Worksaver. Link in my description, thanks!
I recommend a Great Plains quick hitch plus the top link is adjustable. If you’re looking for a cheap one harbor freight has one and it isn’t to bad but it’s what you expect from a $99 hitch
Does TL90 act in any way like slime? (To seal leaks) or do you put slime in as well?
No, just a ballast option.
Love the big tool rack...hate the price.
Considering the Deere suit, I don't blame you at all for requiring ballast.
I'm not aware?
@@GoodWorksTractors They lost in a rollover lawsuit because a dealer sold a tractor without ballast box. Suit claimed dealer knowingly sent tractor home not ready for loader work.
Basically, a real problem they plagues the backyard farmers that don't know anything about tractors.
In any case, a jury agreed. Google it for more details. Deere is appealing.
@@JustinHEMI05 that is a shame. I assume the operator was stupid? That jury should have asked if he got, read, and understood the manual. If he didn't get a manual from the dealer for the tractor than I can understand.