OMG. This was amazingly well explained. I thought the setting was for filming wild life and now I know what it is really for! Just kidding. This was really fantastic, seriously good. Well done! I can't imagine anyone not liking this.
Excellent tutorial on UA-cam the best, because nobody didn't showed and well explained ,how Zebra patterns works in 70 % Skin tone . Thank you very much.
Hello, I am planning on buying a Canon Legria and after watching your videos I can safely say that it will be the camera I purchase. Great overview, Thanks
Best tutorial on using zebra striping on the internet regardless of camera model. I've watched a dozen videos read manuals and explanations on the web and this explains the subject in a way that can be followed with confidence. Thank you. You might want to change the name or do a second upload so the name does not include the camera model because this video can be so useful to a wider audience than just Canon HG GNN owners.
That's very kind of you to say and I really appreciate the comment. Thank you. I will take your suggestion I think and rename that video to make it more obvious that it applies to all cameras offering the zebra function. Cheers.
How are you manually changing the Iris, Shutter, and Gain on the screen like that? I've tried using the tiny wheel located on the back of my camera and the only way I can change these settings is my scrolling ON the screen itself. When you change it, it goes maroonish in color. I can't do this. Please explain if you don't mind. You made one of these changes at like 8:07 in.
I know you asked this 2 years ago, but for you or anyone that's curious...If you're using a similar Canon camera, you can go through the menus and assign different functions for the wheel. In this case, the exposure. You press the small button and it'll highlight, in orange, the active wheel function (F-stop, shutter, and gain--expressed in dB). Hope this helps!
Thank you, but can we have another on outdoors no humans filming. What would the zebra pattern be when faced with green grass, trees and white fluffy cloud type day, ditto but with 10/10 clouds and ditto but just blue sky ? For establishing correct exposure when aimed at sky and aircraft for example. Also for street scene or a ground event such as vintage cars.
There is no single reference for a mixed scene eg I can't say "the cars should be xx" because it varies depending on their colour etc. Sky exposure will be different to street as well. Either use zebras set to 100% and expose for less than this (set it so that almost no zebras are showing except on the very very brightest bits) so that everything's not overblown (and tweak it when editing) or (better) buy a cheap 70% zebra card and hold that in front of the cam when setting levels, then carry on. Or, cheaper still, hold your hand in front of the cam (about 1m away, not right up against the lens) and expose on that at 70% (if you are Caucasian)
Thanks, this was a very helpful introduction. I was wondering why the camera doesn't always automatically adjust exposure so that whites never go over 100%, but I guess this might make the overall picture too dark if there is a small intense bright spot of light somewhere in the frame. So maybe sometimes you need to have some areas over 100% for the greater good of the picture?
ForViewingOnly Correct. In essence, because camera sensors can't record the entire dynamic range of some images (with very bright and very dark areas), you have to compromise on which part of the image is most important to you and set your exposure for that, accepting that this may mean another part of the image is darker or brighter than you would ideally like. Professional camcorders have settings that enable you to adjust how the camcorder records dark and bright areas by squishing the levels a bit to try to squeeze more in but consumer camcorders either don't do this or do it automatically so you have no control.
Hiya thanks for the amazing video. I'm using a bmpcc and just wondered what zebra setting approx works well for darker skin tones (Venus Williams for instance) do I go closer to the 100 marker or less than 70? Thanks for your help.
Much harder to say a precise value with darker skin because there can be so much variety. The darker the skin, the lower the exposure (ie less than 70) What you can do is purchase a "70% grey" lighting card (these are quite standard, sold in video and camera stores) and set the exposure for lighting that card, with the zebras at 70%. Then you can swap in any subject of any skin tone (leaving the exposure "as is") and it will pretty much be correct.
If there's no human subject in the photo then zebras are much less useful for exposure. What you can do (if your camcorder permits it) is set zebras to 90% or 100% and then bring the exposure up so that the sky / clouds are just starting to show zebras across them; they wil be the brightest bit of your image so a setting of 90%+ is right for them. Alternatively, stand someone in front of the camera such they they are in the same light as the landscape. Set the zebras based on that person on 70%. Move them out the way and take the shot :-)
Well, in the sense that it will shoot videos, yes you could do a basic film with it. And the art of a film is in the telling, not in the equipment you use. You could shoot a short film on a mobile phone if you wanted... :-) So a better answer is probably that it depends what kind of film you're making. For example DSLRs are much more awkward to use but work better in low light (moody atmospheric) situations; videocameras are more ergonomic and have better sound without buying shedloads of accessories and mucking about in the edit... so it sort of depends what you're plan is.
Ah, I do think this could be what I'm looking for, I've been working on film making for a while now but I thought an upgrade might be in order, but you are right about the actual content being the most important part. Thanks a lot for the help :-)
alright, Zebra stripes mark the extra light, or points of the reflation . I saw a guy talking about set zebra setting to zero for shooting green screen . that's why I was searching about zebra setting. thanksire.
I saw a video where the guy suggest shooting green screen using zebra setting to make sure the lights on green screen is even. so I have a canon t1i and I don't know if have this setting on there, by the way I was searching about zebra setting first to know what's it is .
OK, I see what he means. Yes, if you adjust the lighting until you see zebra stripes across the entire green screen then you know the whole thing is lit fairly evenly. Then you can re-adjust your camera and talent lighting for the correct exposure..
+steve eastwoofer I don't actually know the origin but "faffing about" or "a bit of a faff" means an unnecessary amount of effort to achieve something. Or can mean doing a lot while achieving very little.
Can I do this way. Set zebra at 80. once zebra appears, then back up until the zebra is gone, so then I know the skin tone is not reach 80. I just feel this way we will not see the distracting zebra patter at the face all the time.
You mean "back down" (less bright) not up but yes you could do that. Or in fact, best set to 75 if your camcorder allows it. Also, many camcorders will let you assign zebra on/off to a button so you can just toggle it on and off when needed.
so it's not actually for recording zebra's... phew that's comforting since we don't have any here.. Thankyou good sir, well explained. Also Vicky is very cute with especially nice bone structure and posture. 70% women for me ... ... ...
Also your lady friend really likes you...there are not many people in my life who would sit on camera through another camera whilst i discussed camera features!
Because how would you know how much adjustment was necessary? Darker skin tones come in a vast range of reflectances from, say, 30-40% (very dark skinned) up to mid-60s (very light) so you can't use a generic setting as you can with Caucasian tones which tend to be a consistent 70% ish. And unless your camcorder gives you a percentage exposure reading, you're still going to be no more informed about whether you've set the exposure correctly for their shade or not. What you need is a constant reference level. Therefore what you can do is either: a) Put a Caucasian person under the lighting that you propose to use, set the exposure on them at 70% zebra and then ask the darker-skinned person to swap. This can seem a bit rude though. b) Put the subject in place and ask them to hold up a plain white piece of paper (which should reflect almost all the light that falls on it ie 100%) in front of their face (where the main light will be falling). Set your zebra pattern to 100% and expose until the paper is showing zebras. You have now set the exposure correctly for the amount falling on the subject's face.
UKAirscape Good tips, thank you. So as I understand your explanation, the ideal exposure on a darker skinned person is a level that would be 70% on a light skinned person. Just seems to me that would under-expose a darker complexed face. Am I missing something here? Wouldn't we want to up the exposure versus a lighter-toned face to bring out more under-exposed details?
Well, no, not really but yes possibly (!). Strictly speaking if your subject *is* very dark skinned then you want them to appear dark in the recorded image because that's how they are in the real world! They are that dark compared to someone who's lighter skinned. Hence why calibrating your 100% zebra to 100% in camera shows your subject at their true shade. Now, that said, it may be that your judgement is that you do want to lift the levels a little to bring out some detail but it's a judgement call and do be careful not to overdo it. You run the risk of making them appear unrealistically bright and you're also going to blow out (overexpose) any background that is light.
Most of this is overexposed (no wonder, when you gain 6 db in a sunlit room!) If you set Zebra at 70, and find bars in most of the persons face, it's overexposed and shiny. Only very few bars - if any - should show at this level. I got the following off "Hdwarrior" : Skin tones usually fall between 55 and 65% for a very natural, well detailed, chroma-rich look. At 70% skin will start to “shine.” At 75% you are loosing detail, and at 80% most all the detail is gone. In conclusion : set zebra to 70, when the bars show on the face of the person in front of the camera, turn it down ever so slightly and - boom - good exposure :-)
***** Hi. Thanks for the comment. I agree with HDW that above 70% you start to lose detail for sure. The recorded footage on the HF-G25 actually looked fine - remember that how it looks on the LCD screen, especially when filmed off that by another camcorder, will not be representative of the recorded file. Also, given the zoom level in play, there was no further open iris movement to be had which is why the gain was stepping up when the exposure control was adjusted (the room was not as sunlit as my description made it sound). I could have dialled it down a fraction more but only by about 1dB - notice that when the gain's at 5dB, there's only the tiniest bit of zebra marking showing on her cheek.
UKAirscape( A very helpful video especially because I own a HF-G10 so thank you. ) When you say the footage is usable óver 100% ( 109% ) 70% is not actually 70 %... So there is your safe side of that mark.
There is no single definitive answer since non-white skin tones can have a range of darkness. I would, as I think I mentioned in the video, set it to 70% on a caucasian subject or test card, and then it is set correctly for anything else in that same lighting, whatever their skin tones.
Juan Dela Cruz I can't change the video once it's uploaded; you'll just have to sit back with a cup of tea, relax, and watch for the whole 11 long, tedious minutes. Or watch something else :-)
Juan Dela Cruz It always amazes me how people take the time to criticize others for their efforts in creating an informative video like this. UkAirscape did a great job and explained it well. Juan, just take a chill pill or take the advice Thumper gave in "Bambi"..."If you can't say somethin' nice, don't say nothin' at all".
he should take it positively in his next videos. to stick to the point and not be boring. I'm actually helping him. Check phlearn, he's to the point and not boring. check how manu subscribers he has.
Juan Dela Cruz All I'll say is that whether something is boring or not is entirely subjective so "don't be boring" is not an instruction anyone can actually obey. Some may find me fascinating! (I'm not claiming they do, just saying it's possible). I welcome all - constructive - criticism. :-)
OMG. This was amazingly well explained. I thought the setting was for filming wild life and now I know what it is really for! Just kidding. This was really fantastic, seriously good. Well done! I can't imagine anyone not liking this.
Thank you!
Excellent tutorial on UA-cam the best, because nobody didn't showed and well explained ,how Zebra patterns works in 70 % Skin tone . Thank you very much.
Thank you
The best explanation of Zebras on UA-cam. Thank you!
Thank you
Hello, I am planning on buying a Canon Legria and after watching your videos I can safely say that it will be the camera I purchase. Great overview, Thanks
It's one thing to know something and another to explain what you know. This is perfectly useful video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it, cheers!
Great video and an adorable model! Thank you...
It's very kind of you to say, and much appreciated. Cheers
Best explanation I could find on UA-cam. Thank you, finally understood it.
Thank you, glad it was useful.
Best tutorial on using zebra striping on the internet regardless of camera model. I've watched a dozen videos read manuals and explanations on the web and this explains the subject in a way that can be followed with confidence. Thank you.
You might want to change the name or do a second upload so the name does not include the camera model because this video can be so useful to a wider audience than just Canon HG GNN owners.
That's very kind of you to say and I really appreciate the comment. Thank you. I will take your suggestion I think and rename that video to make it more obvious that it applies to all cameras offering the zebra function. Cheers.
Great video!!! Thank you
It was the best explained video i ever saw on filming
How are you manually changing the Iris, Shutter, and Gain on the screen like that? I've tried using the tiny wheel located on the back of my camera and the only way I can change these settings is my scrolling ON the screen itself. When you change it, it goes maroonish in color. I can't do this. Please explain if you don't mind. You made one of these changes at like 8:07 in.
I know you asked this 2 years ago, but for you or anyone that's curious...If you're using a similar Canon camera, you can go through the menus and assign different functions for the wheel. In this case, the exposure. You press the small button and it'll highlight, in orange, the active wheel function (F-stop, shutter, and gain--expressed in dB). Hope this helps!
Another superb video - loving these!
Thanks, very useful. Had no idea what this setting was.
Great :-)
Fantastic bit of education. So very grateful for your efforts. Very informative. Congratulations.
Thanks!
Thank you, but can we have another on outdoors no humans filming. What would the zebra pattern be when faced with green grass, trees and white fluffy cloud type day, ditto but with 10/10 clouds and ditto but just blue sky ? For establishing correct exposure when aimed at sky and aircraft for example. Also for street scene or a ground event such as vintage cars.
There is no single reference for a mixed scene eg I can't say "the cars should be xx" because it varies depending on their colour etc. Sky exposure will be different to street as well. Either use zebras set to 100% and expose for less than this (set it so that almost no zebras are showing except on the very very brightest bits) so that everything's not overblown (and tweak it when editing) or (better) buy a cheap 70% zebra card and hold that in front of the cam when setting levels, then carry on. Or, cheaper still, hold your hand in front of the cam (about 1m away, not right up against the lens) and expose on that at 70% (if you are Caucasian)
Thanks - Great video. just got a Sony A6000 and had no idea what the zebra feature was!
Thanks - delighted to know it was useful for you!
Very clear and easy to follow tutorial.. thanks a million
+Karamany AL MO Glad you liked it; cheers
Very pretty subject! Oh yes, and helpful video!
Thanks, this was a very helpful introduction. I was wondering why the camera doesn't always automatically adjust exposure so that whites never go over 100%, but I guess this might make the overall picture too dark if there is a small intense bright spot of light somewhere in the frame. So maybe sometimes you need to have some areas over 100% for the greater good of the picture?
ForViewingOnly Correct. In essence, because camera sensors can't record the entire dynamic range of some images (with very bright and very dark areas), you have to compromise on which part of the image is most important to you and set your exposure for that, accepting that this may mean another part of the image is darker or brighter than you would ideally like.
Professional camcorders have settings that enable you to adjust how the camcorder records dark and bright areas by squishing the levels a bit to try to squeeze more in but consumer camcorders either don't do this or do it automatically so you have no control.
Hiya thanks for the amazing video. I'm using a bmpcc and just wondered what zebra setting approx works well for darker skin tones (Venus Williams for instance) do I go closer to the 100 marker or less than 70? Thanks for your help.
Much harder to say a precise value with darker skin because there can be so much variety. The darker the skin, the lower the exposure (ie less than 70)
What you can do is purchase a "70% grey" lighting card (these are quite standard, sold in video and camera stores) and set the exposure for lighting that card, with the zebras at 70%. Then you can swap in any subject of any skin tone (leaving the exposure "as is") and it will pretty much be correct.
@@UKAirscape - That is a clever idea !
thank you, that was very well explained. I will start to use the 70% from now on when filing.
Thank you for your detailed video learning more each day been trying to get more details in the shadow using Thanks again
Glad you liked it, cheers
Great video, perfect explanation!
Great video. I finally understand the zebra function. Thank you!
:-)
What if you are shooting landscape?? I removed all the zebra stripes but the picture came out too dark.
Thanks
If there's no human subject in the photo then zebras are much less useful for exposure. What you can do (if your camcorder permits it) is set zebras to 90% or 100% and then bring the exposure up so that the sky / clouds are just starting to show zebras across them; they wil be the brightest bit of your image so a setting of 90%+ is right for them.
Alternatively, stand someone in front of the camera such they they are in the same light as the landscape. Set the zebras based on that person on 70%. Move them out the way and take the shot :-)
So do you think that could be the G25 a good purchase? or could be better buy another camcorder like sony pj810? Thank you
MonachristDaSilva It depends what you want to use it for. Can't define "better" without stating your purpose and your skill level...
I was looking at one of these in the store, and I could set 1/60 or many others, but no 1/120! Wouldn't it make sense to have 1/120?
+EnergeticWaves Shutter speed you mean? 1/60th would be normal for 60i/30p filming
the problem is for hand held, you get too much blur. a 120 setting would seem to make math sense to me. but your choice is 100 or 125. seems weird.
Thank you; I will pass your kind compliment to Vicky.
Could this be any good for a young low budget film maker? it's within my price range
Well, in the sense that it will shoot videos, yes you could do a basic film with it. And the art of a film is in the telling, not in the equipment you use. You could shoot a short film on a mobile phone if you wanted... :-)
So a better answer is probably that it depends what kind of film you're making. For example DSLRs are much more awkward to use but work better in low light (moody atmospheric) situations; videocameras are more ergonomic and have better sound without buying shedloads of accessories and mucking about in the edit... so it sort of depends what you're plan is.
Ah, I do think this could be what I'm looking for, I've been working on film making for a while now but I thought an upgrade might be in order, but you are right about the actual content being the most important part. Thanks a lot for the help :-)
Extremely well explained and presented thanks
Great; thanks.
Thanks, really well explained, thank you. Got to say Vicky is very patient lol.
She was gently falling asleep. I can't believe she wasn't hanging on my every word :-(
alright, Zebra stripes mark the extra light, or points of the reflation . I saw a guy talking about set zebra setting to zero for shooting green screen . that's why I was searching about zebra setting. thanksire.
That's a very odd sounding piece of advice; I wonder what he was trying to suggest..?
I saw a video where the guy suggest shooting green screen using zebra setting to make sure the lights on green screen is even.
so I have a canon t1i and I don't know if have this setting on there, by the way I was searching about zebra setting first to know what's it is .
OK, I see what he means. Yes, if you adjust the lighting until you see zebra stripes across the entire green screen then you know the whole thing is lit fairly evenly. Then you can re-adjust your camera and talent lighting for the correct exposure..
Great information and well explained. Thanks for posting!
Glad it was useful.
Excellent tutorial sir! Thank you for taking the time.
Glad you liked it, cheers!
That was very useful! Thanks a lot!
Thanks! This was very useful.
Thanks for the video tutorial - very good presentation.
Thank you
Thank you very much, will try this out
Why is the camera a different name in the UK?
+EnergeticWaves Lots of cameras have different names and numbers in different countries
THANK YOU...to you and to your beautiful model
Thank you for the feedback! Greatly appreciated.
Very pleased to hear it; thank you.
great explanation, many thanks!
Cheers
very helpful video. thank you so much
what does "a bit of a faf" mean? (i'm just interested in the british slang here.)
+steve eastwoofer I don't actually know the origin but "faffing about" or "a bit of a faff" means an unnecessary amount of effort to achieve something. Or can mean doing a lot while achieving very little.
cool thanks
Thanks for this great explanation.
Cheers
Thanks this was very useful
Adrian Birtwell Good to hear; thanks.
Can I do this way. Set zebra at 80. once zebra appears, then back up until the zebra is gone, so then I know the skin tone is not reach 80. I just feel this way we will not see the distracting zebra patter at the face all the time.
You mean "back down" (less bright) not up but yes you could do that. Or in fact, best set to 75 if your camcorder allows it. Also, many camcorders will let you assign zebra on/off to a button so you can just toggle it on and off when needed.
THANKYOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS...REALLY MANY THANKS SO USEFULL
Great stuff , thank you. Well done!
+Zdenek Podsednik :-)
so it's not actually for recording zebra's... phew that's comforting since we don't have any here.. Thankyou good sir, well explained. Also Vicky is very cute with especially nice bone structure and posture. 70% women for me ... ... ...
Glad to hear it; thank you
Also your lady friend really likes you...there are not many people in my life who would sit on camera through another camera whilst i discussed camera features!
She was enthralled by every word :-)
Thanks very much, very useful!
Very useful!
thanks... i knew it meant something!
Good review.
Curious why this wouldn't also work at 70% with darker skin tones, adjusting the exposure as necessary.
Because how would you know how much adjustment was necessary? Darker skin tones come in a vast range of reflectances from, say, 30-40% (very dark skinned) up to mid-60s (very light) so you can't use a generic setting as you can with Caucasian tones which tend to be a consistent 70% ish. And unless your camcorder gives you a percentage exposure reading, you're still going to be no more informed about whether you've set the exposure correctly for their shade or not.
What you need is a constant reference level. Therefore what you can do is either:
a) Put a Caucasian person under the lighting that you propose to use, set the exposure on them at 70% zebra and then ask the darker-skinned person to swap. This can seem a bit rude though.
b) Put the subject in place and ask them to hold up a plain white piece of paper (which should reflect almost all the light that falls on it ie 100%) in front of their face (where the main light will be falling). Set your zebra pattern to 100% and expose until the paper is showing zebras. You have now set the exposure correctly for the amount falling on the subject's face.
UKAirscape Good tips, thank you. So as I understand your explanation, the ideal exposure on a darker skinned person is a level that would be 70% on a light skinned person. Just seems to me that would under-expose a darker complexed face. Am I missing something here? Wouldn't we want to up the exposure versus a lighter-toned face to bring out more under-exposed details?
Well, no, not really but yes possibly (!).
Strictly speaking if your subject *is* very dark skinned then you want them to appear dark in the recorded image because that's how they are in the real world! They are that dark compared to someone who's lighter skinned. Hence why calibrating your 100% zebra to 100% in camera shows your subject at their true shade.
Now, that said, it may be that your judgement is that you do want to lift the levels a little to bring out some detail but it's a judgement call and do be careful not to overdo it. You run the risk of making them appear unrealistically bright and you're also going to blow out (overexpose) any background that is light.
UKAirscape Thanks for the explanation. Some experimentation is in order.
Thanks
awesome dude!
Glad you liked it.
Excellent
Thanks
poor vicky....sitting there for 11 full minutes
Not poor at all - she had the pleasure and delight of my company and the excitement of hearing how zebras work :-)
👍
All this time I thought that had to do with green screen.
If the Zebra Stripes set levels above 100, the picture shows overexposed
Yes. Although there's actually scope to go up to 107% provided that you bring the levels back within range during editing.
Most of this is overexposed (no wonder, when you gain 6 db in a sunlit room!)
If you set Zebra at 70, and find bars in most of the persons face, it's overexposed and shiny. Only very few bars - if any - should show at this level. I got the following off "Hdwarrior" :
Skin tones usually fall between 55 and 65% for a very natural, well detailed, chroma-rich look. At 70% skin will start to “shine.” At 75% you are loosing detail, and at 80% most all the detail is gone.
In conclusion : set zebra to 70, when the bars show on the face of the person in front of the camera, turn it down ever so slightly and - boom - good exposure :-)
***** Hi. Thanks for the comment. I agree with HDW that above 70% you start to lose detail for sure. The recorded footage on the HF-G25 actually looked fine - remember that how it looks on the LCD screen, especially when filmed off that by another camcorder, will not be representative of the recorded file. Also, given the zoom level in play, there was no further open iris movement to be had which is why the gain was stepping up when the exposure control was adjusted (the room was not as sunlit as my description made it sound). I could have dialled it down a fraction more but only by about 1dB - notice that when the gain's at 5dB, there's only the tiniest bit of zebra marking showing on her cheek.
Fair enough, I still think that 70% is a bit high, better to turn down a bit when you hit that mark. Otherwise people will look shiny :-)
***** Better under than over, so as not to accidentally clip anything - absolutely agree.
UKAirscape( A very helpful video especially because I own a HF-G10 so thank you. ) When you say the footage is usable óver 100% ( 109% ) 70% is not actually 70 %... So there is your safe side of that mark.
70% *is* 70% (of the legal video levels). Not sure what you mean.
Fantastic.....if it was you....what would you set it to for a black persons skin tone....say some one like Samuel Jackson???
There is no single definitive answer since non-white skin tones can have a range of darkness. I would, as I think I mentioned in the video, set it to 70% on a caucasian subject or test card, and then it is set correctly for anything else in that same lighting, whatever their skin tones.
@@UKAirscape Thank you!!
zeeebra
useful video indeed! but cut your finger nails man.
I'll keep my fingernails exactly how I want them. Thanks for watching.
get to the point of zebra..... which is you're main topic as your title suggest.
Juan Dela Cruz I can't change the video once it's uploaded; you'll just have to sit back with a cup of tea, relax, and watch for the whole 11 long, tedious minutes. Or watch something else :-)
Juan Dela Cruz It always amazes me how people take the time to criticize others for their efforts in creating an informative video like this. UkAirscape did a great job and explained it well. Juan, just take a chill pill or take the advice Thumper gave in "Bambi"..."If you can't say somethin' nice, don't say nothin' at all".
he should take it positively in his next videos. to stick to the point and not be boring. I'm actually helping him. Check phlearn, he's to the point and not boring. check how manu subscribers he has.
Juan Dela Cruz All I'll say is that whether something is boring or not is entirely subjective so "don't be boring" is not an instruction anyone can actually obey. Some may find me fascinating! (I'm not claiming they do, just saying it's possible). I welcome all - constructive - criticism.
:-)
UKA..maybe you could tap dance or juggle during your next video ;-)
Wrong choice of words and phrases makes this tutorial less usefull. At the end what remains is confusions.
T B Failing to specify what you mean by "wrong choice of words and phrases" makes this comment less useful. Confusion remains indeed :-)
She looks so bored! But thank you. :)
Ah, no - that's her "entranced" face, captivated by my every word ;-)