I have been trying to find a video on this exact issue for months now. Today I finally got the bearing housing out! You are an absolute champion! Thank you!!!
This video actually has helped me get an idea of what I have to do repair something different than the job you’re performing! I have two older Kawasaki’s and my zxi 750 sheared the threads off the crank coupler to the drive shaft. I wasn’t sure what I would need to do to get the old one out and replace. But you showing how you pulled the exhaust manifold and carb flame arrestor and lifted the motor is exactly what I need to do.
Hey man, have the same exact problem. What did you have to take off to lift the engine up in just wondering how big of a job this is gonna turn out to be.😅
You should also look at the motor mounts. When there bad the motor moves around when the ski is in motion causing the drive shaft to move as well which creates gaps in the drive shaft boot which then intrudes water.
I know this is super old video but I recently had my ski rebuilt 1997 STX however it flipped upside down last week and now I have an issue. It will not go past 5 mph. it starts fine comp of 110 on every cylinder any ideas and how should I fix it?
well i don't have exactly the same problem. the ski did not take on water, it stopped in a forward motion. lunging forward. rpm's good for 19 miles per hour but not moving forward. speed was 4 miles per hour. while trying to reach dock, i turned to left to hit large waves head on to avoid flipping, it turned into wave and continue in circle and wow, the thing stopped the stall and made it all the way back to dock. would like know your thoughts, but would rather bring it to you for repair
Great video, thank you for sharing! Im a little confused in regards to the potential sealant issue you mentioned where the shaft passes thru the hull. If you could see light through it, from the outside, then how was it not bad? I am about to pull my bearing housing out to replace, but was curious if I should inspect this boxed area you pointed out. Does it fill with water normally? Not even sure why this cavity is there?
Aynısı bende var türkiyede bu hafta sifir motor yaptım ama ilk denememde sıkıştı cok ısındı pervane tahliyelerinde sıkıntı olduğunu söylediler neden yapar
Great video, thanks Mike! I replaced mine with a JSP boot. I put it back together and put it in the water. The hull was filled with 3 inches of water by the time I got my trailer parked. i pulled it back out, but I am unable to find the leak. Can you tell me where and what you siliconed when you reassembled, or any other place that it could be leaking through. Also, have you added a bilge pump?
I have a 2000 1100 zxi that has vibration and looses power until it hits a wake and comes down hard, all the sudden gets power like crazy for a while...did yours do these things before you changed the pump bearing?
This is crazy, lol. Just bought same ski, and someone put a load of sealant all around that aluminum part you cut around to get to. They cut mine the exact same way to access it as well. I’m cleaning all there quick fix up to address it properly I hope anyways. lol.
I replaced a broken bearing housing on my Kawasaki jet ski only to have the new one crack after a few short test rides. Any advise on what's going on? Defective part or something else...how is your replacement holding up?
Hi Mike, I have a 1998 1100 STX that also takes on water; not quite as much as yours did. Mine I can leave in the water overnight from sundown until sunup the next morning and it squats at the back end from taking on water. It doesn't get to the electrical box but close. I take it out and ride and all the water clears out fine and I'm good for that day. I have bearing noise that sounds like a bunch of rocks in a pillow case bumping against each other mostly at idle or very low speeds. It seems to go away or not noticeable at higher RPM. Does this sound like the same issue and bearing problem you had? Did your taking on water get fixed with the bearing replacement? I'm thinking I have that same issue but wanna make sure it's not bearings in the pump. I was told you have to remove the engine to get the drive shaft out. It looks like you just removed your pipe & flame arrestor cover (obviously after removing the motor mount nuts) had enough clearance when hoisting the engine up to get the shaft out. True? Getting more detail on that would help me greatly. For example, what exactly was removed from the top side to get enough clearance below? Thanks in advance for any help or advice you can give. Much appreciated and like others have said THANK YOU!
Hey! So yes, that does sound like that could either be the driveshaft bearing/seal or it could be within the pump itself. If you are able to easily spin either bearing by hand then the bearing set is certainly wore out. They should have some resistance and be VERY smooth. As for the getting enough clearance to get the the drive shaft off, you just need to take off the expansion chamber from the manifold and remove the four motor mount bolts to the ski and house the engine up about 6”. Everything else can stay connected (fuel lines, electrical, cooling hoses)
Also, the more common issue with this ski taking on water slowly is that where the drive shaft protrudes through the hull, the glue that’s used to adhere the two hull pieces together breaks down and let’s water in very slowly. This is where you would want to be able to fill the inside of the ski up with water and have the nose pointed to the sky so you can see where the water leaks out. This is how I identified where the water was leaking on mine.
you have to remove the tail cone from the jet pump, then tighten down the shaft 1/2" flat section into a vice to secure the pump shaft. Once thats all secure you use a kawasaki impeller removal tool to slide into the impeller, and you just loosen with a large breaker bar.
Hello mike, what is the small grey tank that was on top for of the shaft at the begging at the video? You have to set aside to check the open square hole
Hey Mike, did this end up fixing the problem? I have the same 97 1100 stx and im having the same leak from the same area. Would love to know if you are still getting water in the hull after replacing the bearing housing.
It’s perfectly fine now after replacing the bearing housing, I was able to let it sit in the water for three days with almost no sign of water in the hull after wards.
@@Localhost127 Is the seal still good? Asking bacause I am about to get the same ski 99 stx1100 with the exact same problem. Guy that had it replaced it but he thinks it was a little crooked when he tightened it and it broke the first hr back on the river. I'm thinking he didnt seat the motor correctly before he tightened the seal. Would love to hear how yours is seeing it has been some time since you made this video? :)
Wow! In good condition. Mine's exactly the same. Do you know the max speed/rpm? I can get it to catch 45-50mph, which is nice, but it doesn't go up 6500-6700rpm. If top rpm is 7000 i find it reasonable, but i read somewhere the top rev is 8000rpm. Thanks!
@@sumisoalpadre Between the bearing and the fiberglass, You can really use any epoxy/sealant you have laying around. Since you dont need it to adhere (because it bolts in) you could just put a good bit of waterproof caulk around the circumference of the bearing as you bolt it in. |Bearing|-Caulk-|Fiberglass| then bolt it all together. until you see the caulk squeezing out.
Hey Mike do you know why my jetski would be leaking from the same area but when I look at the rear water is coming between the metal pipe and the fiberglass? It's leaking earlier than yours as well like once it gets up to about halfway in the area where you cut it starts leaking.
Yes, unfortunately the marine epoxy fails over time where the metal thru hull collar meets the hull in this video I actually thought that was my issue and started cutting the section out to access that area to glob epoxy onto it. What I’ve read is that most people just fill that whole area with epoxy to seal it up as pulling the metal collar out and redoing it is too much work.
I used OEM Kawasaki as the original part lasted close to 20 years. I sourced it from amazon. its the same bearing holder in all of the skis for the last 20 years or so.
I have been trying to find a video on this exact issue for months now. Today I finally got the bearing housing out! You are an absolute champion! Thank you!!!
Glad I could help!
This video actually has helped me get an idea of what I have to do repair something different than the job you’re performing! I have two older Kawasaki’s and my zxi 750 sheared the threads off the crank coupler to the drive shaft. I wasn’t sure what I would need to do to get the old one out and replace. But you showing how you pulled the exhaust manifold and carb flame arrestor and lifted the motor is exactly what I need to do.
Glad It helped! We’re all just stumbling about :)
Hey man, have the same exact problem. What did you have to take off to lift the engine up in just wondering how big of a job this is gonna turn out to be.😅
You should also look at the motor mounts. When there bad the motor moves around when the ski is in motion causing the drive shaft to move as well which creates gaps in the drive shaft boot which then intrudes water.
Thank you so much for the post! We would have got it, but its soooo! Much easier when you're not flying blind!
Just removed and ordered a new housing, what adhesive did you use to install the housing?
I know this is super old video but I recently had my ski rebuilt 1997 STX however it flipped upside down last week and now I have an issue. It will not go past 5 mph. it starts fine comp of 110 on every cylinder any ideas and how should I fix it?
Cool video ! I need to do this, do you need to put any grease on the drive shaft seal where the drive shaft sits ?
well i don't have exactly the same problem. the ski did not take on water, it stopped in a forward motion. lunging forward. rpm's good for 19 miles per hour but not moving forward. speed was 4 miles per hour. while trying to reach dock, i turned to left to hit large waves head on to avoid flipping, it turned into wave and continue in circle and wow, the thing stopped the stall and made it all the way back to dock. would like know your thoughts, but would rather bring it to you for repair
Great video, thank you for sharing! Im a little confused in regards to the potential sealant issue you mentioned where the shaft passes thru the hull. If you could see light through it, from the outside, then how was it not bad? I am about to pull my bearing housing out to replace, but was curious if I should inspect this boxed area you pointed out. Does it fill with water normally? Not even sure why this cavity is there?
Aynısı bende var türkiyede bu hafta sifir motor yaptım ama ilk denememde sıkıştı cok ısındı pervane tahliyelerinde sıkıntı olduğunu söylediler neden yapar
Hey man, any special tools that you needed to pull apart anything? Did you replace any gaskets?
2:19 what was the purpose of that piece on the steering nozzle? I notice that today’s jet pumps don’t have a drop like that on the steering nozzle
You can also buy rebuild kits for that black housing if you want to make this job a little less expensive.
I have a 2014 kawasaki ultra lx. Same leak around the driveshaft area. Would it be the same process to fix?
its the same part number for close to 20 years i believe, You likely just need to replace that bearing/housing.
I have the same issue. Except previous owner glue it back on and now i can’t get it off. 😢
Great video, thanks Mike! I replaced mine with a JSP boot. I put it back together and put it in the water. The hull was filled with 3 inches of water by the time I got my trailer parked. i pulled it back out, but I am unable to find the leak. Can you tell me where and what you siliconed when you reassembled, or any other place that it could be leaking through. Also, have you added a bilge pump?
Hey man I have this very issue right now, did you ever get it figured out?
I have a 2000 1100 zxi that has vibration and looses power until it hits a wake and comes down hard, all the sudden gets power like crazy for a while...did yours do these things before you changed the pump bearing?
It did not, that sounds like some serious imbalance somewhere. I would check the motor mounts and the bearing for the pump and pump shaft.
This is crazy, lol. Just bought same ski, and someone put a load of sealant all around that aluminum part you cut around to get to. They cut mine the exact same way to access it as well. I’m cleaning all there quick fix up to address it properly I hope anyways. lol.
good luck! gotta love other peoples projects haha
I replaced a broken bearing housing on my Kawasaki jet ski only to have the new one crack after a few short test rides. Any advise on what's going on? Defective part or something else...how is your replacement holding up?
Your motor mounts are prob bad so the motor is moving around ruining the bearing
Hi Mike, I have a 1998 1100 STX that also takes on water; not quite as much as yours did. Mine I can leave in the water overnight from sundown until sunup the next morning and it squats at the back end from taking on water. It doesn't get to the electrical box but close. I take it out and ride and all the water clears out fine and I'm good for that day. I have bearing noise that sounds like a bunch of rocks in a pillow case bumping against each other mostly at idle or very low speeds. It seems to go away or not noticeable at higher RPM. Does this sound like the same issue and bearing problem you had? Did your taking on water get fixed with the bearing replacement? I'm thinking I have that same issue but wanna make sure it's not bearings in the pump. I was told you have to remove the engine to get the drive shaft out. It looks like you just removed your pipe & flame arrestor cover (obviously after removing the motor mount nuts) had enough clearance when hoisting the engine up to get the shaft out. True? Getting more detail on that would help me greatly. For example, what exactly was removed from the top side to get enough clearance below? Thanks in advance for any help or advice you can give. Much appreciated and like others have said THANK YOU!
Hey! So yes, that does sound like that could either be the driveshaft bearing/seal or it could be within the pump itself. If you are able to easily spin either bearing by hand then the bearing set is certainly wore out. They should have some resistance and be VERY smooth.
As for the getting enough clearance to get the the drive shaft off, you just need to take off the expansion chamber from the manifold and remove the four motor mount bolts to the ski and house the engine up about 6”. Everything else can stay connected (fuel lines, electrical, cooling hoses)
Also, the more common issue with this ski taking on water slowly is that where the drive shaft protrudes through the hull, the glue that’s used to adhere the two hull pieces together breaks down and let’s water in very slowly. This is where you would want to be able to fill the inside of the ski up with water and have the nose pointed to the sky so you can see where the water leaks out. This is how I identified where the water was leaking on mine.
@@Localhost127 Thanks Man! GREAT info!
What's the epoxy to seal a jet ski where the driveshaft area top and bottom
Get something rated for marine use id imagine
How do you remove the prop from the shaft?
you have to remove the tail cone from the jet pump, then tighten down the shaft 1/2" flat section into a vice to secure the pump shaft. Once thats all secure you use a kawasaki impeller removal tool to slide into the impeller, and you just loosen with a large breaker bar.
Hello mike, what is the small grey tank that was on top for of the shaft at the begging at the video? You have to set aside to check the open square hole
I believe thats the ECU youre thinking of. Thats where the digital ignition lives.
Hey Mike, did this end up fixing the problem? I have the same 97 1100 stx and im having the same leak from the same area. Would love to know if you are still getting water in the hull after replacing the bearing housing.
It’s perfectly fine now after replacing the bearing housing, I was able to let it sit in the water for three days with almost no sign of water in the hull after wards.
@@Localhost127 Is the seal still good? Asking bacause I am about to get the same ski 99 stx1100 with the exact same problem. Guy that had it replaced it but he thinks it was a little crooked when he tightened it and it broke the first hr back on the river. I'm thinking he didnt seat the motor correctly before he tightened the seal. Would love to hear how yours is seeing it has been some time since you made this video? :)
i have this problem. where are you located. can you repair my jet ski?????
Lov the tunes bro
Wow! In good condition. Mine's exactly the same. Do you know the max speed/rpm? I can get it to catch 45-50mph, which is nice, but it doesn't go up 6500-6700rpm. If top rpm is 7000 i find it reasonable, but i read somewhere the top rev is 8000rpm. Thanks!
i was able to get it to around 7000 rpm, and 55mph per GPS.
I just trying to remove that seal but is so hard because has some sealer oround did you how I can remove that part easy?
What worked best for me was using a large flat head screwdriver to pry in between the fiberglass, And the bearing/seal so that i could pry it free.
@@Localhost127 Thanks so much for answer my cuestion Mike,I'm going to try that awesome video.!!👍
@@Localhost127 one more cuestion buddy.did you seal back that part If so what kind of sealer did you recomend me.
Thanks a lot!
@@sumisoalpadre Between the bearing and the fiberglass, You can really use any epoxy/sealant you have laying around. Since you dont need it to adhere (because it bolts in) you could just put a good bit of waterproof caulk around the circumference of the bearing as you bolt it in. |Bearing|-Caulk-|Fiberglass| then bolt it all together. until you see the caulk squeezing out.
@@Localhost127 Thanks a lot Mike
Hey Mike do you know why my jetski would be leaking from the same area but when I look at the rear water is coming between the metal pipe and the fiberglass? It's leaking earlier than yours as well like once it gets up to about halfway in the area where you cut it starts leaking.
Yes, unfortunately the marine epoxy fails over time where the metal thru hull collar meets the hull in this video I actually thought that was my issue and started cutting the section out to access that area to glob epoxy onto it. What I’ve read is that most people just fill that whole area with epoxy to seal it up as pulling the metal collar out and redoing it is too much work.
Mike Heying thanks for the advice
Did you put any gasket behind the bearinghousing or did you just put it on an screw the four bolts
Hey mike what was that part called that you replaced
It was the pumpshaft bearing housing that had disintegrated. www.amazon.com/JSP-Replaces-13280-3730-13091-3730-13280-3756/dp/B00MCKRCBQ
always put grease or some kind of lubricant for seals not to burn of while it spinning
Great video!
Did you use Kawasaki parts or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what brand and where did you get it? Thanks, nice work!
I used OEM Kawasaki as the original part lasted close to 20 years. I sourced it from amazon. its the same bearing holder in all of the skis for the last 20 years or so.
Holy crap. I wish I had not Purchased a Kawasaki jet ski now.
Yamaha has it too. SeaDoo has a carbon seal that’s even worse