Thank you so so much for this video. I’m a single woman who got a truck to pull a camper, and when this code popped up I searched and found this video and thought, I could do this. I successfully replaced it today, and this is the first car repair I’ve ever done besides a tire. It’s a great feeling plus saved me lots of money. Thank you again.
Awesome job! The internet may have many bad aspects, but the way it allows freedom of information and communication, for example - for a lady without a lot of prior experience to successfully fix her car by watching a helpful UA-cam video and save time and money and get a lot of satisfaction doing the job herself - that's one of it's really great aspects!
Thank you so much. I fallowed your instruction and everything came out right. This is what a how to video should be done. Just the right amount of information, no music , no jokes , words of wisdom. thanks
You are awesome. Do you realize how helpful this video is? Let me just give you a rundown of recent events. I just paid off an engagement ring, so I am by no means swimming in cash. My check engine light came lit up on the way home from proposing (2 1/2 hr drive chattanooga to Nashville). We all know that feeling in your gut when you see that light. I went to my local shop to have them pull the codes, and prepared for the worst. I found your video that gave me step by step instructions. I am by no means a mechanic. My experience extends to installing an aftermarket air intake and throttle body. You saved me a ton of money and stress!
That's a funky clip on the connector. Fought with it for 10 minutes then gave up and went on UA-cam. Your video saved me a lot of time. Thanks so much for sharing your tips!
So what was the problem? just SLIP light, or other problems with ignition? my 2005 xterra has SLIP light and problems with ignition and car accelerates itself. thanks
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yeah thanks I did the same and fought they clip and then gave up before I broke it. Appreciate the help and the video. Big thumbs up
watched your video & waited for part to come in. I tried to get my hand between the cover & the back engine compartment wall. Watch your video again, removed cover & could not find the sensor, until I felt behind the coils instead of the back center of the block fifteen minute later I am finished. Thanks!
@@ProfessionalPepper I don't think I have seen a better made DIY video than this. Clear, concise, and no beating around the bush. Outstanding work, thank you for doing such a wonderful job.
Very useful information - Thank You. The mirror image, during the cover removal, was freaking me out until I figured what was going on - I thought your threads were reversed
Funny you would mention that... As I was watching him, my thoughts (in that order) were... Hey, those bolts are reverse threaded? Really? Why?.... Then... I wonder if his sound and video are out of sync? (until I saw him loosening the bolts by hand and then realized nope, not out of sync)... and then... I wonder if he's shooting this in a mirror maybe?
Brilliant. i didn't get mine checked for error code but after a breife discussion with my mechanic, the camshaft sensor was the only thing that could have been causing my pathfinder to cut out on hot days. watched the video and changed it myself and now, no problems at all. Great video and thank you, from Australia.
man u answered so many questions for me. I had the banks wrong and I would have never got that clip loose. I bought a used truck from a dealer and it threw the code 8 days after I bought it. the dealer offered to fix it for about $300. I watched your video, ordered my parts from ebay for $20 a pair instead of $80 at the parts store. fixed it myself and went back to my 120 mile ride to and from work each day. u da man. thanks from truckdoctor
Fantastic instructional, thank you! It's not enough to know the location of this puppy, your details on technique make all the difference in getting this job done simply and quickly. From the step stool to the pillow to rest on the engine block, and especially how to undo the electrical connector - perfect! My Frontier's engine is running like new again. Thanks!
Awesome vid man. I literally just changed the bank 2 sensor in 2010 Pathfinder in the parking lot of an AutoZone haha. The slip and vdc or w/e codes are gone now and the truck drives and starts normally. But I still have the CEL from it. I assume it's just a matter of clearing the code? Or is there another step after installation, or is it something else?
Thank you so much for posting this video. I just replaced mine and it took about 10-15 minutes to find it and unscrew it. Just a regular socket and ratchet worked for me. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Thanks for this, my neighbor was having a hard time and rounded off the bolt head. I told her that wasn't an issue as long as we secure a new bolt. But alas she wound up getting the wrong sensor so we have to wait for the right one. Not much room to work in! Thanks again for great content.
@@ProfessionalPepper fixed like a shade tree mechanic does, just need to clear the codes so the engine runs right. As a Creative Director and pusher or proper data, I still have to say, your content was spot on and to the point. I appreciate that and have subbed.
Super helpful video; thanks! For those having trouble getting a socket wrench back there: I was able to get it with a short socket wrench that didn’t flex (my flex head one was too big to get there).
Im throwing a code of P0390. The folks at my local Autozone treat me like Im a moron (Im female) and refused to sell me the part, because the read out says LEFT sensor and not Bank 1 or 2. I am correct in thinking this is the drivers side? They had me change the crankshaft sensor and told me it would work, that was 2 days ago and my truck just died, again. Thanks for the video! Any help is appreciated.
Thanks for the Video it helped me locate the sensors. After the benefit of watching I was able to replace both cam sensors (driver and passenger side) without removing the intake. I removed the plastic intake cover (that says 4.0 on it) and unclipped the large engine harness that runs parallel with the fire wall behind the intake. I covered the engine an grill with a thick layer of cardboard and climbed up on the engine. With a 1/4" drive breaker bar with a 10mm socket and was able to remove and replace both sensors in about an hour. Both are blind but you can get to them.
Thanks for the helpful vid....it was the best one I found. The part where you explain and show how to remove the clip was great! I am going to put a link to your video up on the Nissan Xterra forums. When are you going to post the vid for the passenger side?
Wow, your video helped me big time. I also found out the difference between a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor having inadvertently bought the other (worked out anyway). Bought my camshaft sensor off Amazon of all places ($25.00) and this tutorial really helped. THANK YOU!
Thanks for the video. Just got done putting in the sensor. That cost me eighty-five bucks. I've got to get one of those code reader things because it runs fine now but it still has the check engine light. Will have to go in to work and have to reset the code. Thank you very much.
+Prep Know Do (PrepKnowDo556) Wasn't near as bad as yours, but the code was exactly the same. i drove it around the block and it seemed fine. We'll see tomorrow after i put some moles on it.
Assuming this is my part too. My part shop said camshaft position sensor a (bank 2). They sell a Left and a Right one. So, I guess it’s the Right one since bank 2 means driver side. And also it’s the crooked part and not straight one. Right?
Bank 1 = Passenger side =Straight profile Bank 2 =Drivers side = Kinked Profile I have links in the video description for the products on amazon. I also have a video of me changing the part out for bank 1.
Good how to for changing out the driver's cam sensor. It helped me find the sensor and I really liked the tip on how to disconnect the connector. However, on my 2011 Frontier removing the engine cover would be a waste of time. I propped up the hood using a temporary prop on the passenger side and came in from over the driver's fender.
This is a great video. So much better than anything else I've found for the camshaft sensor. I only wish you would do one for the P0340 Passenger side sensor which I've heard is much more difficult to get to.
I just did this for the drivers side on my Xterra and it took 10 minutes. The passenger side is much harder to get to. I did it a couple years ago and video'd it but never posted it. I'll see if I can figure out some editing and get it posted
+speedsterwinston theres another video on here for that side I found it on u tube. Rather see this guys video. I have to do both of them n the purge valve solenoidGood luck
Did the aftermarket sensor hold up or should i go with the oem or hitachi (actual oem part) i found that the infor for all these is kinda convoluted and I am unsure which sensor will actually be best. Some list all different part numbers that other places say don't fit, so idk.
The aftermarket part has held up just fine. It is an easy fix so it's not such an invested risk if the non-OEM part doesn't work. However, if your not pinching pennies and your time is more important get the OEM. It is a pretty common and simple part that stays in a fixed position. If you were to choose an aftermarket part for this fix I think you would be in good company.
hello i am having a issue with my 2008 Nissan pathfinder it as 167k miles gets 17 to 19 MPG V6 ok so on to the issue i am having i have and hour drive to work i drive part of it on the interstate and the rest on a highway when driving the car has a odd vibration and shuts off then if i wait about 10 minutes car starts and runs
How do you find the actual sensor? I tried to look in the hood but didn't see anything. Can you see it from underneath? Or do you just have to feel for it?
Also i just change the both cams bank 1 and 2 drove the vehicle for two weeks and it's showing bank 1 bad again, parts ordered from Amazon, 3 sensors for 30$ could this be the problem??.
That could be the problem, OEM is always best. However, there is a possibility there could be an issue with corrosion on the connector, degraded wiring, or when you reattached the sensor, the bolt is too loose or too tight. If you have a tight budget, I would recommend buying another cheap sensor for bank 1. Attach it. If it works, good, box up the bad sensor and return it. If it doesn't work send it back and investigate other potential issues mentioned above. Good luck!
First, check to make sure the cable quick connections are fully pushed into place. Next, do a computer restart on your car. Disconnect the + terminal battery cable and hold it on the negative battery terminal. Let the vehicle sit for 12 min. Connect the battery back up. Try to start her. If that doesn't fix it then there is an issue with one of the sensors, as the engine computer has an engine protection feature that won't let it run without a working sensor. You will need to buy one.
Yeah I would be pretty pissed if I were you. Maybe they can refund you and sell you a new one at a reduced price. Good luck. Sorry you had to waste your time. Good practice! haha!
Hey there good video but i have a question, i was told you need to replace both camshaft position sensors and the crankshaft position sensor at the same time, because if you change the two cams it will burn out the crankshaft sensor, is this true, and is it necessary, or should i change the two camshaft position sensor only thanks.
You don't have to, but can and probably should. Here is a link to my other channel where I replace the crankshaft position sensor. ua-cam.com/video/cGCwih44kpQ/v-deo.html
Great video! If in future videos you could use regular video mode instead of selfie mode we would not have the reversed or mirror image thing going on. I was confused for a bit until I realized it was reversed. Thanks again!
I did this about 6 months ago. I did the whole thing...and it said the sensor was still bad and the engine wouldn't start. It turns out the sensor is very sensitive about how tight the bolt is, so you'd probably want to torque it to the specs so you don't have to do it twice.
@@ProfessionalPepper Wow! Do you use conventional oil? I ask because I use synthetic and my engine is still clean up top and I replaced my bank 2 cam sensor today and it had oil on it but the holes were visible through the oil.
if you do some research on clubfrontier.org you should be able to make sure you select the right part. Its either bank 1 or 2. I would assume bank A means bank 1.
disconnect both terminals from the battery, touch and hold the terminal cables together for 30 seconds to drain all computer power and memory. Reconnect them to your battery and try to restart.
Thanks man.... This is egg-zakly what my 2010 Nissan frontier with the legen-dairy VQ-40 powerplant was a doin... I'm a feelin a hole lot better bout the future condition of my wallet after watchin this little flick that ya sa graciously provided for the benefit of the common man strugglin ta save a dime in a world whur "the man" has the common man, by the nads… These here videos are worth much more than ya realize to the folks that'r a livin payday to payday.... May ya get the best life has ta offer as ya continya ta help folks like ma'self ta save all we can... THUMBS UP COUSIN !!!
Thanks for the excellent video. It was very well done. I was getting acceleration issues, Loss of Power as well as the VDC and Slip light is coming on, along with "Engine Service Soon". Looked it up found this recommendation from another source: "from what i see and experience you might have to change out your cam sensors.", and this: "A failing camshaft position sensor begins . Mismatched fuel delivery and ignition timing, even if off by a few milliseconds, will cause your vehicle to sputter, accelerate poorly, lack power, stall or even shut off." Have you experienced this, or what made you know you needed to replace it? I am hoping this might solve the problem. :)
My vehicle sputterd and had some rough vibration then it stalled out. It all happened within 2 miles on the road. After waiting 2 hrs the vehicle fired right up and I was able to get home. I then made the repair.
@@ProfessionalPepper My understanding is there is a Driver and Passenger side Sensor, so it seems to me the challenge is isolating which one is having the problem.
Thank you so much for this video. You made it so easy for me to replace my sensor by myself... Let me ask you though. when i first got the service engine soon light my engine turned off while i was driving my truck, Do you think this is what caused it????? and thank you a punch. amazing video....
you are awesome, i will tell you what caused mine to go bad. last week i was checking my oil, and i left the oil cap off, and i turned the engine on, but it wasn't even one minute till i realized my cap was not on, i turned the engine off so fast but it was to late i guess. about an hour later while i was driving it went off on me and the service engine soon light came up. thank you again
You may just be able to clean it. Just spray it off with some cleaner, let it dry, and reinstall it. If you are still encountering problems, then you will need to buy a new sensor. Sometimes the sensors corrode on the inside, or the magnet on the inside looses its precise magnetic field requirement .
Thanks for you video, very good. Could I ask you what made the sensor get damage? And more important, the new sensor is working still? Thanks For your Help.
Sometimes the sensors corrode on the inside, or the magnet on the inside looses its precise magnetic field requirement. It can also be damaged by heat. Engines are nasty places.
Running the engine when the sensor is busted can cause permanent damage to your engine. When it went out, the vehicle stalled in an intersection and damn near got me T-boned. The check engine light appeared as soon as that happened. I had to turn the car off, let it set for 5 min, then started it back up. After that on the way home, the truck lost power intermittently for 1/2 to 2 seconds at a time. The second I got home I researched the problem, checked the code, and purchased the new part and installed it that weekend. I was lucky to have a second car to drive.
Appreciated! Thanks. Mine is not stalling but engine some time running rough and shaking. I had a friend test it using a diagnostic computer device and it pointed to the camshaft sensor driver-side. Does that sound a symptom of the same problem you had?
it does. The violent shaking comes from your cylinder(s) not firing while some do, causing an imbalance. For me the imbalance was so drastic the engine cut out. It's almost like riding your bike and the chain misses a tooth on the gear. The code won't lie.
Great video. Well-edited. I'm about to give it a shot on both sensors. I'm curious about who's the maker of that nice hinged handle ratchet you use? Thanks.
Thanks alot. Ordered the part and gonna attempt myself. Could it be possible that the sensor would go bad for wrong velocity oil that the last mechanic may have put in. Thanks
brother thanks for sharing I'm wrist deep in my 2012 frontier trying to find the sensor but can only see it from underneath lol, thanks for the video this helps alot though!!!
Buenas noches un favor tengo un nissan xterra 2008 por las mañanas cuando enciendo el vehículo y hasta que se caliente sale un olor bien fuerte luego de unos minutos desaparece que puede ser gracias por su asesoramiento
My engine was severely misfiring to the point it stalled out in traffic, but it started back up and ran fine, then stalled again in an intersection. Then luckily started again and got me home. The engine light turned on and i managed to drive it to Auto Zone and got the code read. It was this part that failed.
@@ProfessionalPepper ok Thanks for fast reply I got something on the same engine pathfinder, xterra, frontier 4.0 liter i have code p1136 vvt driver side cleaned one was working well changed 3 times with brand new oem but still same code And tp sensor p2135 changed throttle body one time with brand new oem throttle working fine and i feel no problem but on startup its giving these 2 codes And its still ok i can drive it with no issue this codes killed me chasing and fixing 😳😓
P1136 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve P2135 Throttle Position Sensor Im thinking you may need to have the ecu relearn the throttle or you need to have the ECU reset. www.clubfrontier.org/threads/throttle-body-on-vq40de.273634/ You can disconnect your battery, then touch the negative and positive terminal cable connectors together for 10 seconds to fully discharge the vehicle. Then hook everything back up and it may work. There are also several things you can do to have the vehicle relearn things. I hope this works, if not try researching things on clubfrontier.org
There is no thinking or assuming. Look at the Cylinder Numbering order of any motor Not the Cylinder Firing Order Number 1 Cylinder always determines the Number 1 Bank, on a 6,8 or 12 V shape motor Inline Motors,the Front Cyl is #1 With Google,Wikipedia & You Tube Videos -- you seldom have to ask any questions,just do the research
Have you had any issues with that duralast sensor at all? I’m curious if factory part makes a difference or not, and you’ve got 7 years on this video lol
Thank you so so much for this video. I’m a single woman who got a truck to pull a camper, and when this code popped up I searched and found this video and thought, I could do this. I successfully replaced it today, and this is the first car repair I’ve ever done besides a tire. It’s a great feeling plus saved me lots of money. Thank you again.
great job! you should be proud of yourself!
Awesome job! The internet may have many bad aspects, but the way it allows freedom of information and communication, for example - for a lady without a lot of prior experience to successfully fix her car by watching a helpful UA-cam video and save time and money and get a lot of satisfaction doing the job herself - that's one of it's really great aspects!
This is awesome! I'm glad you got it done.
This is absolutely how all diy's should be filmed and edited. Awesome video, Thanks!
Thank you so much. I fallowed your instruction and everything came out right. This is what a how to video should be done. Just the right amount of information, no music , no jokes , words of wisdom. thanks
Thanks for the compliment. Great job fixing it!
You are awesome. Do you realize how helpful this video is? Let me just give you a rundown of recent events.
I just paid off an engagement ring, so I am by no means swimming in cash. My check engine light came lit up on the way home from proposing (2 1/2 hr drive chattanooga to Nashville). We all know that feeling in your gut when you see that light. I went to my local shop to have them pull the codes, and prepared for the worst. I found your video that gave me step by step instructions.
I am by no means a mechanic. My experience extends to installing an aftermarket air intake and throttle body. You saved me a ton of money and stress!
Patrick Dray awsome!
That's a funky clip on the connector. Fought with it for 10 minutes then gave up and went on UA-cam. Your video saved me a lot of time. Thanks so much for sharing your tips!
no problem. glad I could help. thanks for the compliment it actually helps motivate me to make more videos.
So what was the problem? just SLIP light, or other problems with ignition? my 2005 xterra has SLIP light and problems with ignition and car accelerates itself. thanks
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yeah thanks I did the same and fought they clip and then gave up before I broke it. Appreciate the help and the video. Big thumbs up
@@gogatbilisigeorgia did you figure out the cause of the problem? Mines does the same
Still helping people after 7 yrs!!! Tks again. Blind man for sure. Took off with right hand put back with left hand!!! Clip info best info!!!!
You're welcome 👍
watched your video & waited for part to come in. I tried to get my hand between the cover & the back engine compartment wall.
Watch your video again, removed cover & could not find the sensor, until I felt behind the coils instead of the back center of the block
fifteen minute later I am finished. Thanks!
Glad I could help
This is how you do a video when it comes to showing someone how to work on a specific thing. Thank you so much! Will be sharing!
Thanks, I hoped it helped.
Agreed, this is what all repair videos should be. Well done, Pro Prepper!
@@ProfessionalPepper I don't think I have seen a better made DIY video than this. Clear, concise, and no beating around the bush. Outstanding work, thank you for doing such a wonderful job.
@@caneyebus Thanks!
@@ProfessionalPepper I was able to get my truck running 3 hours after it died on me thanks to you. You're the best!
Very useful information - Thank You. The mirror image, during the cover removal, was freaking me out until I figured what was going on - I thought your threads were reversed
Funny you would mention that... As I was watching him, my thoughts (in that order) were... Hey, those bolts are reverse threaded? Really? Why?.... Then... I wonder if his sound and video are out of sync? (until I saw him loosening the bolts by hand and then realized nope, not out of sync)... and then... I wonder if he's shooting this in a mirror maybe?
ME TOO! I was thinking HE'S TIGHTENING!
For whatever reason the video image was flipped during the recording. I'm not the best producer.
Brilliant. i didn't get mine checked for error code but after a breife discussion with my mechanic, the camshaft sensor was the only thing that could have been causing my pathfinder to cut out on hot days. watched the video and changed it myself and now, no problems at all. Great video and thank you, from Australia.
Awesome! Best of luck to you and your countrymen dealing with the aftermath of the wildfires.
man u answered so many questions for me. I had the banks wrong and I would have never got that clip loose. I bought a used truck from a dealer and it threw the code 8 days after I bought it. the dealer offered to fix it for about $300. I watched your video, ordered my parts from ebay for $20 a pair instead of $80 at the parts store. fixed it myself and went back to my 120 mile ride to and from work each day. u da man. thanks from truckdoctor
truckdoctor61 Thank you! Have a beer for your hard work. Cheers
Fantastic instructional, thank you! It's not enough to know the location of this puppy, your details on technique make all the difference in getting this job done simply and quickly. From the step stool to the pillow to rest on the engine block, and especially how to undo the electrical connector - perfect! My Frontier's engine is running like new again. Thanks!
Awesome vid man. I literally just changed the bank 2 sensor in 2010 Pathfinder in the parking lot of an AutoZone haha. The slip and vdc or w/e codes are gone now and the truck drives and starts normally. But I still have the CEL from it. I assume it's just a matter of clearing the code? Or is there another step after installation, or is it something else?
Thank you so much for posting this video. I just replaced mine and it took about 10-15 minutes to find it and unscrew it. Just a regular socket and ratchet worked for me. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
6 years later and still helping people. Great video. Made the job easy. Thank you!
The truck model has been in service from 2005-2020. Millions of truck on the road. Hopefully it can save many some money 💰
Thanks for this, my neighbor was having a hard time and rounded off the bolt head. I told her that wasn't an issue as long as we secure a new bolt. But alas she wound up getting the wrong sensor so we have to wait for the right one. Not much room to work in! Thanks again for great content.
My pleasure. Good luck with the rounded off bolt head! That's a bummer.
@@ProfessionalPepper fixed like a shade tree mechanic does, just need to clear the codes so the engine runs right. As a Creative Director and pusher or proper data, I still have to say, your content was spot on and to the point. I appreciate that and have subbed.
Super helpful video; thanks! For those having trouble getting a socket wrench back there: I was able to get it with a short socket wrench that didn’t flex (my flex head one was too big to get there).
Rarely do I hear, "Too big it doesn't fit" 🤣😂
So weird seeing the video flipped left to right, an alternate universe! Nice job, thank you.
Im throwing a code of P0390. The folks at my local Autozone treat me like Im a moron (Im female) and refused to sell me the part, because the read out says LEFT sensor and not Bank 1 or 2. I am correct in thinking this is the drivers side? They had me change the crankshaft sensor and told me it would work, that was 2 days ago and my truck just died, again. Thanks for the video! Any help is appreciated.
Thanks for the Video it helped me locate the sensors. After the benefit of watching I was able to replace both cam sensors (driver and passenger side) without removing the intake. I removed the plastic intake cover (that says 4.0 on it) and unclipped the large engine harness that runs parallel with the fire wall behind the intake. I covered the engine an grill with a thick layer of cardboard and climbed up on the engine. With a 1/4" drive breaker bar with a 10mm socket and was able to remove and replace both sensors in about an hour. Both are blind but you can get to them.
I just replaced my other bank too and the camshaft position sensor a few months back. Ill post a neww video soon. great work BTW saved some cash.
Thanks for the helpful vid....it was the best one I found.
The part where you explain and show how to remove the clip was great!
I am going to put a link to your video up on the Nissan Xterra forums.
When are you going to post the vid for the passenger side?
Revolution Audio within a month. Work and a move has kept me from uploading videos.
ua-cam.com/video/xkiim17Ioqk/v-deo.html
Do you ever change your oil?????? At 3:30. You pulled out a sludge covered mess!!!
I'm religious about changing my oil
Wow, your video helped me big time. I also found out the difference between a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor having inadvertently bought the other (worked out anyway). Bought my camshaft sensor off Amazon of all places ($25.00) and this tutorial really helped. THANK YOU!
Great! I'm glad this helped out! Wish you the best.
Thanks for the video, really helped me. For anyone planning on doing it I found that a 10mm ratcheting box wrench worked the best.
thank you and thanks for the tip!
Just did one but I used a 10m Wrench 🔧, the closed end to remove it & replace with new one. Tight space
Thank you very much. You just saved me quite a bit of time and head scratching. This sensor replacement was a piece of cake after watching your video.
Thanks for the video. Just got done putting in the sensor. That cost me eighty-five bucks. I've got to get one of those code reader things because it runs fine now but it still has the check engine light. Will have to go in to work and have to reset the code. Thank you very much.
+Prep Know Do (PrepKnowDo556) Wasn't near as bad as yours, but the code was exactly the same. i drove it around the block and it seemed fine. We'll see tomorrow after i put some moles on it.
+Prep Know Do (PrepKnowDo556) No further issues. Runs fine, no engine light.
Assuming this is my part too. My part shop said camshaft position sensor a (bank 2). They sell a Left and a Right one. So, I guess it’s the Right one since bank 2 means driver side. And also it’s the crooked part and not straight one. Right?
Bank 1 = Passenger side =Straight profile
Bank 2 =Drivers side = Kinked Profile
I have links in the video description for the products on amazon. I also have a video of me changing the part out for bank 1.
@@ProfessionalPepper Just for future reference, is the driver side considered the left side?
Did they give you an engine code
If it was P0345 it is bank 2 drivers side
If it's for P0340 then it's the passenger side Bank 1
Good how to for changing out the driver's cam sensor. It helped me find the sensor and I really liked the tip on how to disconnect the connector. However, on my 2011 Frontier removing the engine cover would be a waste of time. I propped up the hood using a temporary prop on the passenger side and came in from over the driver's fender.
Great idea, thanks for adding the tip.
Man I've looked up every possible Avenue to find my CRANKSHAFT sensor location on A 2003 NISSAN xterra. Little help please!
Thank you for your informative video. This helped me to replace the sensors. Only issue I have now is that it takes a few tries for it to start.
This is a great video. So much better than anything else I've found for the camshaft sensor. I only wish you would do one for the P0340 Passenger side sensor which I've heard is much more difficult to get to.
I just did this for the drivers side on my Xterra and it took 10 minutes. The passenger side is much harder to get to. I did it a couple years ago and video'd it but never posted it. I'll see if I can figure out some editing and get it posted
+speedsterwinston theres another video on here for that side I found it on u tube. Rather see this guys video. I have to do both of them n the purge valve solenoidGood luck
What are the symptoms of a bad position sensor?
Does a Nissan Armada 2005 have 2 of these? I bought one but my car won’t start?
A V6 will have 2. An inline 4 should only have 1, but you'll have to do some reasearch.
Did the aftermarket sensor hold up or should i go with the oem or hitachi (actual oem part) i found that the infor for all these is kinda convoluted and I am unsure which sensor will actually be best. Some list all different part numbers that other places say don't fit, so idk.
The aftermarket part has held up just fine. It is an easy fix so it's not such an invested risk if the non-OEM part doesn't work. However, if your not pinching pennies and your time is more important get the OEM. It is a pretty common and simple part that stays in a fixed position. If you were to choose an aftermarket part for this fix I think you would be in good company.
Thanks for your reply.
Is there a difference between bank 1 or 2? My code came back A circuit bank 2.
Bank 2 is the driver's side
@@ProfessionalPepper thanks great video.
Great video! Simple & straight forward. You made it look easy & uncomplicated -thank you!
Glad I could help
Nice, you explained it very well. I never comment on videos, but this video specifies the process very well. Thanks.
Thank you, worked great, do you have one for the passenger side? Your video made it look way less complicated
hello i am having a issue with my 2008 Nissan pathfinder it as 167k miles gets 17 to 19 MPG V6 ok so on to the issue i am having i have and hour drive to work i drive part of it on the interstate and the rest on a highway when driving the car has a odd vibration and shuts off then if i wait about 10 minutes car starts and runs
does the check engine light come on? It might be one of the camshaft position sensors, the crankshaft position sensor, or you may need new sparkplugs.
Hi.. what was the cause in your car why you replace this sensor?
How do you find the actual sensor? I tried to look in the hood but didn't see anything. Can you see it from underneath? Or do you just have to feel for it?
Peter Filbin the video shows y ou exactly how to find and replace it. I'm not sure I understand your question
You're right, sorry. I watched the whole video then forgot about the part where you showed us the sensor location. lol. Thanks for the vid!
Also i just change the both cams bank 1 and 2 drove the vehicle for two weeks and it's showing bank 1 bad again, parts ordered from Amazon, 3 sensors for 30$ could this be the problem??.
That could be the problem, OEM is always best. However, there is a possibility there could be an issue with corrosion on the connector, degraded wiring, or when you reattached the sensor, the bolt is too loose or too tight. If you have a tight budget, I would recommend buying another cheap sensor for bank 1. Attach it. If it works, good, box up the bad sensor and return it. If it doesn't work send it back and investigate other potential issues mentioned above. Good luck!
amzn.to/3m5Djft
Ok appreciate your response thank you.
I changed my sensor my cars won’t start. Did I get a defective sensor? Or does the computer need to recognize it?
First, check to make sure the cable quick connections are fully pushed into place. Next, do a computer restart on your car. Disconnect the + terminal battery cable and hold it on the negative battery terminal. Let the vehicle sit for 12 min. Connect the battery back up. Try to start her.
If that doesn't fix it then there is an issue with one of the sensors, as the engine computer has an engine protection feature that won't let it run without a working sensor. You will need to buy one.
The Professional Prepper I put my old sensor back on it started right up. I think they sold me a bad sensor. Thanks for replying.
Yeah I would be pretty pissed if I were you. Maybe they can refund you and sell you a new one at a reduced price. Good luck. Sorry you had to waste your time. Good practice! haha!
Thanks again
Hey there good video but i have a question, i was told you need to replace both camshaft position sensors and the crankshaft position sensor at the same time, because if you change the two cams it will burn out the crankshaft sensor, is this true, and is it necessary, or should i change the two camshaft position sensor only thanks.
I only changed out one at a time and it was fine, but the other one failed 1.5 years after the first one broke.
Ok what about the crankshaft sensor does that needs to be changed to or that something totally different??
You don't have to, but can and probably should. Here is a link to my other channel where I replace the crankshaft position sensor.
ua-cam.com/video/cGCwih44kpQ/v-deo.html
Ok man appreciate it thanks.
Isn’t there suppose to be two? Where’s the other?
ua-cam.com/video/xkiim17Ioqk/v-deo.html
Great video! If in future videos you could use regular video mode instead of selfie mode we would not have the reversed or mirror image thing going on. I was confused for a bit until I realized it was reversed. Thanks again!
noted thanks.
I did this about 6 months ago. I did the whole thing...and it said the sensor was still bad and the engine wouldn't start. It turns out the sensor is very sensitive about how tight the bolt is, so you'd probably want to torque it to the specs so you don't have to do it twice.
good point, thanks
Is it necessary to live the sensor ?
Great video. Thanks for sharing. That old sensor had some nasty sludge on it. How many miles were on the engine?
105k miles
@@ProfessionalPepper Wow! Do you use conventional oil? I ask because I use synthetic and my engine is still clean up top and I replaced my bank 2 cam sensor today and it had oil on it but the holes were visible through the oil.
My engine has just over 203,000 miles on it.
I used synthetic, but I bought it with 75k on it, so there is no knowing how it was treated before me.
Does the fault code automatically clear after this? If not how do i clear if after I've replaced the sensor?
Colum McClay I drove for about 50 miles and it cleared. If you Google how to clear the code there are a couple of helpful videos.
Code getting read on my 2005 frontier says "camshaft position sensor A" is this the same thing?
Wow i haven't seen that code, what were the symptoms?
@@ProfessionalPepper all the same symptoms that I've seen for this particular issue (stalling randomly, trouble starting, etc.)
@@ProfessionalPepper P0340, says bank 1, so must be the same. Will likely be consulting this video, thanks for posting!
if you do some research on clubfrontier.org you should be able to make sure you select the right part. Its either bank 1 or 2. I would assume bank A means bank 1.
@@philipvenema2979 best of luck to you. its an easy task if you know what to look for. Let me know how it turns out.
One of the best diy of had the chance to watch. GREAT JOB
I changed my sensor and now my truck doesn’t want to start. Any help or advice?
do a power reset
disconnect both terminals from the battery, touch and hold the terminal cables together for 30 seconds to drain all computer power and memory. Reconnect them to your battery and try to restart.
would it start before?
I know this video super old, but how long did the duralast last?
Thanks so much. I have a 2005 Frontier. First it was the cam shaft sensors, now its the crank shaft sensors.
I just had the same thing happen. replaced them too.
Thanks man.... This is egg-zakly what my 2010 Nissan frontier with the legen-dairy VQ-40 powerplant was a doin...
I'm a feelin a hole lot better bout the future condition of my wallet after watchin this little flick that ya sa graciously provided for the benefit of the common man strugglin ta save a dime in a world whur "the man" has the common man, by the nads…
These here videos are worth much more than ya realize to the folks that'r a livin payday to payday....
May ya get the best life has ta offer as ya continya ta help folks like ma'self ta save all we can...
THUMBS UP COUSIN !!!
Thank you so much. Crack open a cold one buddy you earned it!
@@ProfessionalPepperYou got it bro !! It's a tricklin down my throte as I punch these keys that put letters on the screen !!
Unfortunately im tackling this today.......p0340 code and cuts off and feels sluggish, i guess its time damn it lol😊
You can do it!
@@ProfessionalPepper I couldn't without you guys and UA-cam though lmao
Thanks for the excellent video. It was very well done. I was getting acceleration issues, Loss of Power as well as the VDC and Slip light is coming on, along with "Engine Service Soon". Looked it up found this recommendation from another source: "from what i see and experience you might have to change out your cam sensors.", and this: "A failing camshaft position sensor begins . Mismatched fuel delivery and ignition timing, even if off by a few milliseconds, will cause your vehicle to sputter, accelerate poorly, lack power, stall or even shut off." Have you experienced this, or what made you know you needed to replace it? I am hoping this might solve the problem. :)
My vehicle sputterd and had some rough vibration then it stalled out. It all happened within 2 miles on the road. After waiting 2 hrs the vehicle fired right up and I was able to get home. I then made the repair.
@@ProfessionalPepper My understanding is there is a Driver and Passenger side Sensor, so it seems to me the challenge is isolating which one is having the problem.
Get the code read. In the video descriptions I mention the codes and what bank they apply to.
Thank you so much for this video. You made it so easy for me to replace my sensor by myself... Let me ask you though. when i first got the service engine soon light my engine turned off while i was driving my truck, Do you think this is what caused it????? and thank you a punch. amazing video....
That was exactly what happened to me. It was a semi violent clunk to when it shut off.
you are awesome, i will tell you what caused mine to go bad. last week i was checking my oil, and i left the oil cap off, and i turned the engine on, but it wasn't even one minute till i realized my cap was not on, i turned the engine off so fast but it was to late i guess. about an hour later while i was driving it went off on me and the service engine soon light came up. thank you again
Thank you for this video ..am asking if i cant get new sensor ..so is it posible to clean it ?
You may just be able to clean it. Just spray it off with some cleaner, let it dry, and reinstall it. If you are still encountering problems, then you will need to buy a new sensor. Sometimes the sensors corrode on the inside, or the magnet on the inside looses its precise magnetic field requirement .
Did you disconnect the battery first.
no I did not
Thanks! Had P0340 throw 2 years ago and now P0345. Easy fixes.
2010 Frontier V6.
Nissan Part #: 23731-AL61A
Thanks for you video, very good. Could I ask you what made the sensor get damage? And more important, the new sensor is working still? Thanks For your Help.
Sometimes the sensors corrode on the inside, or the magnet on the inside looses its precise magnetic field requirement. It can also be damaged by heat. Engines are nasty places.
Very helpful , where can I get that type of ratchet thanks
This 3/8" Flexible Drive Ratchet has saved me on many occasions. It seems modern engine spaces weren't made for maintenance. amzn.to/2xndCtY
Thank You! Your video is the gift that keeps giving! Am grateful!
Hi. I would've liked to see who the engine ran with the old sensor and then after installing the new one. but thank you for a good to the point video!
Running the engine when the sensor is busted can cause permanent damage to your engine. When it went out, the vehicle stalled in an intersection and damn near got me T-boned. The check engine light appeared as soon as that happened. I had to turn the car off, let it set for 5 min, then started it back up. After that on the way home, the truck lost power intermittently for 1/2 to 2 seconds at a time. The second I got home I researched the problem, checked the code, and purchased the new part and installed it that weekend. I was lucky to have a second car to drive.
Appreciated! Thanks. Mine is not stalling but engine some time running rough and shaking. I had a friend test it using a diagnostic computer device and it pointed to the camshaft sensor driver-side. Does that sound a symptom of the same problem you had?
it does. The violent shaking comes from your cylinder(s) not firing while some do, causing an imbalance. For me the imbalance was so drastic the engine cut out. It's almost like riding your bike and the chain misses a tooth on the gear. The code won't lie.
Already bought the part ... changing it tomorrow! Thank you.
good luck, let me know how it goes
There are 2 sensor. Anybody know where is the other one location?
ua-cam.com/video/cGCwih44kpQ/v-deo.html
What’s the code that was giving you for this sensor?
P0345
Great video. Well-edited. I'm about to give it a shot on both sensors. I'm curious about who's the maker of that nice hinged handle ratchet you use? Thanks.
amzn.to/2mwrSwJ
The Professional Prepper (Prep Know Do) Thanks for the quick response and helpful video!
is bank 2 considered left or right (to buy sensor)?
Bank 2 is the left side (driver's side). I have a link to the part in the video description.
Thanks alot. Ordered the part and gonna attempt myself. Could it be possible that the sensor would go bad for wrong velocity oil that the last mechanic may have put in. Thanks
I doubt the oil viscosity would make that big of a difference, but you never know. Some blow by could cause a disruption. Good luck changing the part
@@ProfessionalPepper thanks again solved my problem
brother thanks for sharing I'm wrist deep in my 2012 frontier trying to find the sensor but can only see it from underneath lol, thanks for the video this helps alot though!!!
Keep it up, you got it!
Where is camshaft sensor bank 1 located
ua-cam.com/video/xkiim17Ioqk/v-deo.html
Great video, especially the closeup, clear video of the cam sensor
Buenas noches un favor tengo un nissan xterra 2008 por las mañanas cuando enciendo el vehículo y hasta que se caliente sale un olor bien fuerte luego de unos minutos desaparece que puede ser gracias por su asesoramiento
Oswaldo Villacis translate porfavor.
hola . Un olor bien fuerte de donde especificamente?
osbaldo
Sounds or smells like a catalytic converter
Thanks for the video, helped me do the sensor change on my 2014 Frontier.
Gracias no se inglés pero con solo seguir los pasos del video, me funciono eres el mejor....🤜🤛
did your service engine soon light come on and slip light?
damian9220 yes
Just the engine light not the slip
Why Did you change it?
My engine was severely misfiring to the point it stalled out in traffic, but it started back up and ran fine, then stalled again in an intersection. Then luckily started again and got me home. The engine light turned on and i managed to drive it to Auto Zone and got the code read. It was this part that failed.
@@ProfessionalPepper ok Thanks for fast reply
I got something on the same engine pathfinder, xterra, frontier 4.0 liter i have code p1136
vvt driver side cleaned one was working well changed 3 times with brand new oem but still same code
And tp sensor p2135 changed throttle body one time with brand new oem throttle working fine and i feel no problem but on startup its giving these 2 codes
And its still ok i can drive it with no issue this codes killed me chasing and fixing 😳😓
P1136 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve
P2135 Throttle Position Sensor
Im thinking you may need to have the ecu relearn the throttle or you need to have the ECU reset.
www.clubfrontier.org/threads/throttle-body-on-vq40de.273634/
You can disconnect your battery, then touch the negative and positive terminal cable connectors together for 10 seconds to fully discharge the vehicle. Then hook everything back up and it may work. There are also several things you can do to have the vehicle relearn things. I hope this works, if not try researching things on clubfrontier.org
So one thing here.....I always thought Bank 2 was passenger side. You said Bank 2 was Drivers sidel.
Anne Davie Bank 2 = Driver's Side
There is no thinking or assuming. Look at the Cylinder Numbering order of any motor
Not the Cylinder Firing Order
Number 1 Cylinder always determines the Number 1 Bank, on a 6,8 or 12 V shape motor
Inline Motors,the Front Cyl is #1
With Google,Wikipedia & You Tube Videos -- you seldom have to ask any questions,just do the research
So did this actually fix your problem or make it worse by trashing driverside catalytic converter.
It fixed the problem 100%. I have not had any issues with the catalytic converter.
thanks for the video. changed out this sensor on my 2009 Nissan Frontier, no problem
Great job Billy!
Which sensor is circuit 1 and which one is circuit 2
Bank 1 and Bank 2 are listed in the video description and in the comments section from me.
Bank 2 = Drivers side and Bank 1 is the passenger side
My car has code P0345 and it says Sensor A bank 2. Which one is sensor A?
The P0345 is just the Bank 2 sensor. Link to Driver's Side Sensor (Bank2): amzn.to/25cqMXB
The P0345 code is for Bank 2. Link to Driver's Side Sensor (Bank2): amzn.to/25cqMXB
What a great video!!! Would it be the same for 06 Pathfinder?
Anthony Trotta yes. as long as the engine is the same
it is. and thanks again for the vid...it's top notch!!!
Anthony Trotta thanks. Let me know if you have any questions.
Did it work?
Is it normal for them to have oil on them?
Walter Majors mine did. I'm not sure if they are supposed to or not.
Thanks so much for posting this, never would have found it!!
do you recommend changing out both sensors at the same time?
eagpaoa it's really up to you, I changed one at a time. 1 year between failures of bank 1 and 2
Have you had any issues with that duralast sensor at all?
I’m curious if factory part makes a difference or not, and you’ve got 7 years on this video lol
It is still good to this day. No issues.
Nice job detailing the removal for the bank 2 camshaft sensor thanks a lot.
Thanks!
So bank 1 is passenger side i assume
Very good.. thanks.. you explained banks 1 and 2 sides and why you had to change.. others don't say anything about it
Thanks
Thank you for posting videos like this, definetly made my job look super easy and definetly saved some dollars 👍🏼
carlos barraza great to hear it helped you.
now that I cleared that code out, I pull a p0300 random misfire, do you know of any good videos or advice on where to look at first?
Thank you for the help! Successfully replaced mine in my 07 Xterra.
Pete B awsome!
Disculpen alguien que me tradusca en español para que sirve el censor grasias
how do i know which one is bad
Hiram Vazquez read the code
How bizarre, your camera is reversed. What looks light tightening is actually loosening.
i only noticed this after someone commented earlier. Crazy. my apologies as its a mind-F. totally unintentional, the production software did it
Changing mine now but it was the first firing order and it was a straight configuration. Great video though!
I have another video for that. ua-cam.com/video/xkiim17Ioqk/v-deo.html
Good video bud. Thanks 👍 Getting ready to do the same thing to my truck.
Great video! Loved the shot from the rear of the engine.
It was a major pain in the butthole to get that angle 🤣
Gracias eres muy profesional, me funciono...😍😍😍👍👍👍👍
How much is that sensor
Viviano Yanez $45 in the link in the video description.
It was $63 at AutoZone. I also put a link to a flexible socket wrench in the video description. It's very helpful.
For a 2005 Nissan pathfinder the 3/8ths inch wrench didn't fit, I needed to use the 10mm which was slightly bigger.
Thanks for the video! I have to replace mine and this helped a lot.
Awesome! good work!