The Fall and Rise of The Row

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  • Опубліковано 16 лис 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 252

  • @TheOlliverr
    @TheOlliverr 10 місяців тому +243

    in terms of salaries related to their stockists. As an ex Brand Manager for The ROW, the majority of stockists are whole sale. Our salaries were paid 20-50% by TR, the remaining by the department store. some locations had no brand manager / specialist at all and will rely on generic sales associates to sell. One of the best brands to work for however! they are so involved.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +21

      Thats fascinating thank you, I assume this is in the US?

    • @raeyism
      @raeyism 10 місяців тому +9

      Ugh it's so lovely when brands' core are involved. Ty for sharing!!

    • @Miriam-pn7jy
      @Miriam-pn7jy 8 місяців тому +1

      Oliver Hi...Where have you been?

  • @gurlbye9942
    @gurlbye9942 10 місяців тому +382

    Personally, what i think was the most notable thing that sets The Row apart over every other celebrity brand, and a huge factor to it's success, was that the twins genuinely made an effort to avoid the spotlight following the release of the brand. The twins were always known to be private but they became even more elusive and avoided doing any more tv interviews and red carpet appearances that wasn't the CFDA or anything to do with fashion. They basically tried to disappear into obscurity. I believe this was their attempt into being taken seriously as designers and be forgotten as celebrities. One point you made in the video that I don't agree with was, if I'm not mistaken, you believe the initial customer base of the brand were fans of the twins. I believe the opposite. The first customers of The Row were wealthy women who had no idea who were behind the brand and just saw an impeccably constructed cashmere coat. There used to be a lot of shock when people found out that this understated luxury brand that has insane quality and pricing to match were ran by the the Olsen twins. One last thing, The Row cultivated a cult following not only because, as you mentioned, they were basically doing what Phoebe Philo was known for, but because The Row was even more radical than Phoebe. The designs made available on retail were even more simple, more basic, made of higher materials, were more expensive, understated and unknown to the masses. Every item they had was made of cashmere, vicuña, silk, the most supple leather, etc. I always thought of The Row as a cross between Phoebe Philo and Loro Piana.

    • @kiawas1
      @kiawas1 10 місяців тому +8

      Well said❤

    • @raeyism
      @raeyism 10 місяців тому +15

      This is such a brilliant perspective. The way the twins disappeared from the spotlight will forever not fascinate me.

    • @gurlbye9942
      @gurlbye9942 10 місяців тому +17

      @@raeyism thank you ladies! I used to follow what the twins were up to ever since before the launch of The Row. I was a daily reader of fashion blogs back in the late 2000s to early 2010s which documented the twins’ journey and their business ventures very well. I mean who can forget The Row’s first croc backpacks in both $40K and $55k versions that the twins said were sold out. And it was back in 2012, which means they were more expensive than Hermes. lol

    • @barbaraschubert9889
      @barbaraschubert9889 10 місяців тому +1

      Well said

    • @Jayxroberts
      @Jayxroberts 10 місяців тому +10

      You’re absolutely right. People who’ve I met who buy TR, don’t know who the designers are. They just love the beautifully constructed items.

  • @scpatl4now
    @scpatl4now 10 місяців тому +240

    If you contrast this with other "celebrity" brands, the thing I come away with that sets them apart is quality. Many celebrity brands really don't seem to value a well made quality product as much as a gimmick or something briefly of quality only to end up cheaply made. I think if you made a quality product that people want to buy...you will eventually be successful, and more important...you will keep them as customers. That is a lesson I don't think many brands take to heart

    • @scpatl4now
      @scpatl4now 10 місяців тому +14

      @@wills-ol3so I don't find it silly at all, especially if you have watched the other videos where it is explained quite nicely how the downfall of many celebrity brands was their lack of quality and just trying to go forward on their name only. It almost never works out well for them. Quality is not based on the factory. It is a conscious DECISION made by those at the top. Rhianna's brand made a decision to start producing lower quality products which in then turned off many of her better customers. When you lose people that way, they seldom come back. Also, of course there are many reasons things are a hit or a miss. I would not have the time to go through them all. I just chose a "pithy" example to focus on.

    • @ciaociara
      @ciaociara 10 місяців тому +13

      i wouldn’t really call her a celeb, but your point reminds me of jaclyn hill closing all her brands because, in my opinion, she didn’t actually care about high quality but wanted the money attached to her name - now her name is tarnished in a lot of people’s eyes.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +24

      I think you're both right tbh. Quality is a great way of making long term customers. However, thats in relation to everything else the brand offers. Price point, public perception, celebrity endorsement etc. Quality isn't a tangible tick box in that way as so many products have different levels of quality to them. It's very complicated to try to get in a comment, but effectively, they put their eggs in the quality basket and it worked for them. Other brands, like Louis Vuitton, put their eggs in the branding basket and it's worked for them, Coach in the price point basket and its working for them; its just one of many possibly winning strategies they chose, but its always in relation to everything else they do, which is why for a celebrity brand it was smart to focus on quality bcs celeb brands do usually have such a bad reputation

    • @jesusisapisces
      @jesusisapisces 10 місяців тому +2

      ​@@wills-ol3somy lord, you are rude.

  • @userx12342
    @userx12342 10 місяців тому +140

    it's time people started valuing quality > trends

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +20

      It's okay to have a mix of both if one doesnt approach trends or clothing in general as disposable. Who said a trend had to end? One can continue to wear it after the initial buzz is gone

  • @emmanuellebeki
    @emmanuellebeki 10 місяців тому +47

    One thing I note from your videos is that slow growth but steady growth work better for long term result

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +4

      Sustainable growth is the way to go for sure

  • @sharon-bp9pk
    @sharon-bp9pk 10 місяців тому +91

    Finally! So glad to see this video! I have so much respect for the Olsens for how they navigated their careers and personal lives, and how their work ethic and relationship drove them to success.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +5

      Its such an interesting story, right?

  • @13realmusic
    @13realmusic 10 місяців тому +89

    It blows my mind how many huge companies everyone knows about are operating under debt and have never turned a profit. Companies like Uber, Lyft, Netflix even are all low key not profitable for their investors. I think it’s important to point this out often since entrepreneurs like to paint themselves as self made millionaires but in reality many are just smart at spending other people’s money and the best thing they can hope for is to sell their ownership for a big chunk of change before their creditors catch up to their game.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +3

      Exactly yeah

    • @gingerwingerful
      @gingerwingerful 10 місяців тому +5

      Wow very eye-opening thank you so much for stating that you have opened my eyes

    • @AirQuotes
      @AirQuotes 10 місяців тому +8

      Yep, this is very true. There is also a benefit to NOT turning a profit, especially in the early years. Many companies do this on purpose for tax reasons

    • @Ideo7Z
      @Ideo7Z 10 місяців тому +7

      ​@@AirQuotesThat was Amazon's playbook for the first decade and a half of its life.

  • @Thisath100
    @Thisath100 10 місяців тому +53

    This is perfectly timed. I saw this Twitter thread the other day which somewhat contextualised the brand as something created to explore the twins' true passion for fashion design. Interesting to now see that they aren't even the main designers at The Row anymore! Thanks for all the detailed research, I really love how you dug into the business structure behind the brand - maybe the twins' real genius is in business,, too?!

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +8

      I think perhaps their talent is bringing people together, the busienss people to run it and the designers to design. Although with the frankly ridiculous losses before they made a profit, its hard to tell 🤷
      Theres a reason why every brand has a founders story though, and its exactly for that Twitter thread. It tells the consumer what they want them to believe about the brand. Its marketing, but one thats so very much wanted by the consumer to contextualise their purchases or admiration for a brand

  • @AirQuotes
    @AirQuotes 10 місяців тому +14

    I knew most of this, especially the early stuff, as i was working in fashion around this time. And have now moved into business. They never do things im half measures. From the way they set up their contracts and production companies as children. They have a great head for business it's truly the most impressive thing about them imo. What a really well-done video as usual

  • @blackathena1565
    @blackathena1565 10 місяців тому +26

    I remember when The Row started - they did really well quickly moving away from mimicking MK & A personal style to simplicity. I also was familiar with Elizabeth and James from Sephora - I had no idea they were a brand outside of fragrance! But I wish you covered what happened since they are no longer stocked.
    TBH the difference I see between The Row and VB is the ruthless emphasis on quality - deserved or not. VB puts her vision at the forefront of her brand vision but who knows what's happening the the atelier of The Row other than whatever or whoever is behind the curtain will put out a consistently quality product. It's not my vibe but I don't question that it's well made.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +6

      The video really wasnt about E&J, thats why I didnt include their story, but it seems they had wuite the following, maybe Ill have to do a video on them in the future
      And I agree with your thoughts on the differences between TR and VB

  • @britneydaniels6294
    @britneydaniels6294 10 місяців тому +19

    Wow! I really fell for the “it all started with the perfect t shirt” bit. I had no idea they had all these diffusion brands!!! I learned so much about The Row. Ty❤

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      I never believed the t-shirt bit tbh, but I didnt realise just how well it was set up

  • @mariar.8126
    @mariar.8126 10 місяців тому +47

    Elizabeth & James was discontinued in 2018 I think, so it's a shame that you didn't talk about the reasons behind that decision and how it might have changed the trajectory of their business model. Overall, a great video demystifying the myth of the Row's humble beginnings

    • @larissafeliciano1113
      @larissafeliciano1113 10 місяців тому +3

      What was the reason for the closure?

    • @songsenkei
      @songsenkei 10 місяців тому +2

      Agree, this info should have been shared in The Fall portion of the video.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +13

      Its my understanding that it didn't really 'close' it just got transformed into a licensed brand, which makes sense for what it was. But, I saw on reddit that theres confusion over whether Kohls stopped the license during the pandemic. Honestly, maybe it deserves its own video

  • @heisthorn
    @heisthorn 10 місяців тому +13

    What an excellently researched video this is. The Row is truly a brand to follow and the Olsen twins are living testaments to the phrase "working in silence and letting success make the noise". I especially love it when they dress their sister Lizzie for her rare red carpets. Having said all that, I still am patiently waiting for your Céline video. The chic leather-RTW they put out is a personal fave and I really want to know more about them. I discovered them through BLACKPINK's Lisa which was groundbreaking because I've never heard of them here in the Asian market before they signed her up. Happy new year, by the way! I'm such a big fan of your channel.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +3

      Happy new year! Im glad you liked the video but I think Celine will be a while now tbh, Ive just got so many brands on the list that its hard to choose. Saying that Im really happy with this video on The Row, theyre such an interesting brand, and I agree about when they dress Lizzie

  • @NeelamAhooja
    @NeelamAhooja 10 місяців тому +11

    Thank you for this extremely thorough review of the brand’s history. I’ve been collecting The Row for a long time but some of this information was new to me. I’m of an older gen so the draw isn’t the designers’ status but rather their impeccable style choices and attention to detail. They’re still, in my humble opinion, the only one in this category of minimalism that creates classic pieces but with an edge. It’s not like some of the other luxury lines that can feel mature when styled head to toe. I hope their renewed success leads to financial viability - both for them and for The Row lovers like me. 🖤

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Do you have any pieces with the small chain in the back instead of a label?

    • @NeelamAhooja
      @NeelamAhooja 10 місяців тому

      @@understitchYT I used to have three of them - two oversized jersey tunics and one long sheer one with side slits. Sold those pieces a while back. I should have kept one just for the sake of having that label (as a collector I should know better). I sell the items I’m not wearing - I move things out of my closet regularly.

  • @dva5610
    @dva5610 10 місяців тому +15

    Loved that in their FT interview they quietly threw shade at Gabriella Hearst for poaching some of their staff and still not finding success.

  • @markjohnson2257
    @markjohnson2257 10 місяців тому +11

    Wonderful video as always. I remember seeing their 1st collection at Barneys. I didn't know it was by the Olsen Twins. It was a small capsule collection of luxurious basics. The stretch leather leggings, classic blazer, classic dress, silk camisole, etc. Initially l thought it was odd but then felt it was very smart to have very well made basics that women would want.
    The Row reminds me of the issues that Barneys had. The Row/Barneys did great in NYC and Los Angeles where you have an abundance of affluent fashion insiders. It took a while for it to be well known elsewhere. I am glad they are more well known. They should come out with and Artisanal fragrance line similar to Tom Ford to generate more income to support their main line.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +3

      Omg you saw it?? Did you take pictures? Id love to see that.
      I agree that I think their next best step is fragrance, would work so well for their customers that cant afford clothing or bags on a regular basis, and they certainly have an abundance of those customers. And I agree that a perfume at a Tom Ford level would work phenomenally well for then

    • @markjohnson2257
      @markjohnson2257 9 місяців тому

      Sorry. I meant to reply earlier. No l don't have any photos,etc. The very small collection of clothes were on 1 rack. They were what was featured in that short promo film in your video. It reminded me of Donna Karan because at the time she had a line of basics. I think it was called Donna Karan Signature. It was merchandised with the mainline.. It was slightly lower in price than the mainline but way more expensive than DKNY. Just great luxurious basics. People tended to pay full price for basics and buy the seasonal fashion pieces on sale. Also - the very 1st Fashion's Night out was WILD. There were free drinks, food, parties, music, and celebrities all over Manhattan. All the stores and luxury brands tried to see who could be the most fabulous. I remember they were playing musical chairs next to luxury brands at Barney's. I believe the Olsen Twins were personally serving drinks. I first saw the clothes before Fashion Night out so it must have been their 1st collection. Unfortunately most stores did not make a profit during FNO so it was much smaller the next year. Chanel was very smart the 1st year. They had 3 exclusive Khaki themed nail polishes for $35 each. They did very well because they offered a product that had the glamor of Chanel but at a price point that was attainable. Serious shoppers were not out here that night trying to buy a $20k Chanel outfit. I was running all over the city and finally ended up at Stella McCartney in the meatpacking district where the special guests were Kate Hudson and model Angela Lindvall. It was a fun night.

  • @csallenback100
    @csallenback100 10 місяців тому +8

    You should do a retailing history series. After seeing the screenshot recipes from the Barneys bankruptcy I am super interested in the timeline and logistics of this and many other great or past pillars in the fashion/retail space

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +2

      I extremely want to do more histories of retailers, that’s really my area of interest in general, but because of the algorithm is difficult to know exactly when to do that. Maybe I should just go for it and see

  • @markbieraugel8217
    @markbieraugel8217 10 місяців тому +10

    It is so interesting that the twins used the LVMH model of luxury loss leader, brand burnisher The Row to juice up their other cheaper lines. Amazing research and so good to know the real story and not the creator founder startup myths.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      Tbf LVMH definitely didnt invent the loss leader idea, but they certainly popularised it for luxury, thats why I refer to it as the LVMH model 😅

    • @markbieraugel8217
      @markbieraugel8217 10 місяців тому

      Yes, a loss leader is a old concept in retail, but it didn't seem to be used in luxury until LVMH. Thanks for your smart thinking in this area.
      @@understitchYT

  • @richradka
    @richradka 10 місяців тому +5

    Great video and wonderful channel to clearly explain fashion to someone who's outside the industry, isn't a target consumer of fashion, but finds the artistry of the product inspiring and the brand management fascinating.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      Im so glad you enjoyed it then 🙌

  • @brssxcm
    @brssxcm 10 місяців тому +7

    Great video as always. It's also important to point out that they have a few star products now like the Half Moon and Margaux bags, which are both, honestly, of great quality.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Yeah their bags seem to be doing quite well

  • @josephchan4198
    @josephchan4198 10 місяців тому +6

    Great story and mention quality to keep customers coming back.

  • @indoora
    @indoora 10 місяців тому +2

    When you stated you know how to sew it made me so happy. You are a true talent.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      Thank you, I love sewing. I wouldnt say Im especially good, but Ive been sewing since I was 8 so at least two decades 😅

  • @DamienHurts
    @DamienHurts 10 місяців тому +17

    My favourite fashion channel reporting on The Row? Such a good video. But I was expecting you to mention the 55,000 dollars backpack studded with pills (a collab with Damien Hirst) controversy around 2012. That's when I first took notice of the brand. I remember it being talked about alot. How it is supposedly glamourised drug taking. I personally thought the bag was ugly and tacky, but after looking at their collections, I ultimately loved and still love their fashion line. Love them too.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +8

      You know I didnt even hear about that, I must have just missed it at the time

    • @mjjloverdg
      @mjjloverdg 10 місяців тому

      I remember that

  • @zethuzulu7202
    @zethuzulu7202 10 місяців тому +8

    This is the one I’ve been waiting for! I subscribed to this channel (and the beauty one) last month and I’m nearly done watching all the videos. Thank you for the great videos!

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      Then I hope it lived up to expectation!

  • @katestimac4210
    @katestimac4210 10 місяців тому +18

    They have been working since before they could walk or speak. If they want to invest the money they've made into a fashion line, I'd say they have every right. The pushback from other designers feels a little unfair. What else did they make all that money for if not to invest it into something they love? And one more thing I think that's worth noting: they became billionaires because they produced, starred, and DISTRIBUTED all of their films themselves vis-a-vis a straight to video model. They weren't making their money through a deal with outside studios (like other child actors) back then. I don't see why they would go through traditional channels in launching their fashion line, either. They were the bosses then. They are the bosses now.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +5

      They were incredibly fortunate to have the people around them that they did. They made phenomenal decisions for them before they were old enough to understand. But what I respect is that they continued to learn what had been done and run it themselves

    • @katestimac4210
      @katestimac4210 10 місяців тому +4

      @@understitchYT they bought out their manager that incorporated Dual Star for them the second they turned 18, fulfilled one contractual obligation for a movie (New York Minute), and pivoted to fashion. I think that was always their plan.

  • @limpflute3559
    @limpflute3559 10 місяців тому +3

    NEW UNDERSTITCH VIDEO YASSSS This gonna be my video to eat to for tmrw 😍

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      You ate lunch to me? Thats such a lovely thing to hear! I always love a good video with lunch 🥰

  • @NottheotherAmber
    @NottheotherAmber 10 місяців тому +2

    Your content is so educational and entertaining! Thanks.

  • @FNFNFN99KKK
    @FNFNFN99KKK 10 місяців тому +25

    Quiet luxury is trending right now and that is helping their brand grow.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +2

      Oh most definitely, I think I discussed this in my Phoebe Philo video

  • @shttc900
    @shttc900 10 місяців тому +6

    I have this black wool and cashmere blend coat from Uniqlo and I always pretend it's the Row. I'm obsessed with this brand and with Mary Kate and Ashley because it's the epitome of quiet luxury.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      One day youll get an original and youll never buy a coat again; the ultimate goal

    • @shttc900
      @shttc900 10 місяців тому

      I look on eBay weekly, but perhaps that's rooted in false hope, haha. Someday it'll happen!@@understitchYT

    • @shttc900
      @shttc900 10 місяців тому +1

      p.s. I own a copy of that coffee table book they released ($2.00 from a library book sale!) and it's actually quite boring.

  • @hawksandsparrows
    @hawksandsparrows 10 місяців тому +11

    I thought it was known knowledge that they've been profitable for a while? The stores are routinely picked clean and the notoriety of the selling/popularity with genuine "old money" hyper-wealthy clientele is an observable fact for people (actually) operating in the industry
    (wonderful video/content regardless)

    • @jackanapes1492
      @jackanapes1492 10 місяців тому +5

      Selling out clothing doesn’t mean profitable. As Understitch mentions often, clothing lines often lose money. It’s why brands put out accessories, as that is where profits are gained.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      exactly, sales doesn't always mean profits. It ridiculously hard to make profits in fashion actually, thats why so many expand into cosmetics

  • @Art-h3c
    @Art-h3c 10 місяців тому +3

    Thank you for your research on this brand. I only knew that the brand was owned by the twins, but you gave a lot of information.
    I didn't realize the menswear line was short lived. I remember owning a sweater from the brand, very simple, and the only branding on it was a tiny metal looped tag that was sewn at the back of the neck (where was tags are sewn). That eventually disappeared after the a couple dry cleaning trips. Anyway, can't actually remember how I purchased it, I know it was online because I was stationed in Kuwait at the time. It was a great sweater, wish I still had it. Oh well.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      The small gold chains! Thats how they used to tag their clothes, I just couldnt figure a way to add it in casually to the video (or did I in the end? I kept coming back to it) and yes about the menswear line! Im surprised it closed and opened so many times 💀

  • @chinnyb4942
    @chinnyb4942 9 місяців тому

    This might be my new favorite channel.

  • @natashacutmore7005
    @natashacutmore7005 9 місяців тому +3

    Customers falling into the younger end of their target age group may not remember the Olsen twins for their TV and movie fame. I think the quality of the garments and the consistent aesthetic are more important to the brand's ongoing success than the celebrity status of its founders. Personally, I really hope it continues to be successful.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  9 місяців тому

      for sure, like. I do not know any of their movies whatsoever, I just know them. for being famous. But then I wasnt the inital target audience 😅

  • @Miriam-pn7jy
    @Miriam-pn7jy 8 місяців тому +2

    I see The Row perfume and skincare incoming! You heard it here first! 😉

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  8 місяців тому +1

      I think it makes a lot of sense. Elizabeth and James (the Rows pseudo diffusion line) had a perfume and haircare, so I think its the next natural step

  • @Zmiester09
    @Zmiester09 10 місяців тому +14

    I love The Row. They also put out GREAT playlists on Spotify.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +4

      That have a playlist??

    • @jeneng5795
      @jeneng5795 10 місяців тому +5

      ​@@understitchYTmonthly playlists. The twins curate it themselves

  • @JossyFoop
    @JossyFoop 10 місяців тому +6

    As a potential customer, the row just doesn’t sell enough accessories to cover the costs of their garments. Understanding the LVMH model, it’s unfathomable to me how €460 beanies and €1000 jeans is financially viable.
    It’s like, I just bought a pair of €1,150 pants from Helmut Lang, a business which has famously been struggling for recent years, and is now making loungewear to cover their costs. If a brand of that stature has to resort to making €500 sweatpants, how is The Row surviving - diffusion lines no one has ever heard of included.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +3

      I think if it wasnt backed by a huge celebrity duo, it would be rather questionable, heck, even with their money it raises eyebrows as to how it had continued, or why it had continued for so long

    • @JossyFoop
      @JossyFoop 10 місяців тому

      @@understitchYT coming in HOT! I guess suspicions their business model may be unprofitable is potentially naive. To take the quiet luxury view, maybe there’s a lot of quiet consumers. I just can’t buy the idea that a series of underground diffusion lines are bankrolling The Row. Especially considering their entertainment careers ended nearly two decades ago. It seems so financially irresponsible to fund a chronically indebted business with a wealth source no longer being in vast sums. Assuming they invested that money, it seems equally foolish to invest dividends and royalties in a business in the red.

  • @eggsinhell1532
    @eggsinhell1532 9 місяців тому +3

    At the end of the day, their pieces are fucking incredible in terms of quality materials and tailoring. I’m happy to fork over money for subtly luxe staple pieces that will age well.

  • @alexandrazavyalova4908
    @alexandrazavyalova4908 10 місяців тому +3

    Very insightful video, thank you!!

  • @ClaireMonica-Art
    @ClaireMonica-Art 10 місяців тому +1

    Another great video! I’ve always loved the rise and fall of diffusion lines - maybe that subject is a good one to get into

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      I should do one for Elizabeth and James tbh

  • @emilyh7982
    @emilyh7982 10 місяців тому +2

    I read influence as a teenager, and it was a lot of interviews of mostly fashion designers, and each other, along with aesthetic images. I think they must have mentioned the row?? but I think it was very very quick- which was smart because it created, like their privacy as celebs in general, a desire to know more due to its mystery and inaccessibility. I ended up associating them with the incredible fashion icons they interviewed- and felt they must have an eye for fashion and good taste to have such conversations and connections. it felt mature at the time .. I really felt like I grew up with them since childhood and I ate this book up as a teen- I haven’t read it in over a decade and I eventually cut it up for collages, but it was very influential(hah) for me.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      Hmmmm interesting. I wonder if that was the angle they were going for. Trying to position themselves as fashion people, kind of in a similar way to how Rihanna did with wearing smaller designers

  • @wendy_lynn
    @wendy_lynn 10 місяців тому +3

    Absolutely love your content.

  • @classicsciencefictionhorro1665
    @classicsciencefictionhorro1665 28 днів тому

    Very nice video. 74 year old straight male here. I like The Row as does my wife. We've become disenchanted with the luxury brands who, over the last couple years, have adorned their clothes with garish logos and lowered the quality (looking at you, Gucci, LV, Prada, Chanel). Even Hermes, where we shop a lot, now has their name emblazoned on their sneakers. Yes, Phoebe and Hedi are rightfully style icons but The Row is in hot pursuit.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  28 днів тому +1

      Well, what once were luxury brands don’t really read as luxury brands anymore because the quality of the product is lower, quite significantly lower. It’s really difficult to find brands with a similar but un-watered-down history today, but they do exist, just need to know what to look for in suppose. Really, to me the true luxury is a seamstress or a tailor now

  • @214dior
    @214dior 10 місяців тому +1

    First of all, let me say thank you for all that you do with informing us on this very important information in the past industry and to the research that you do to build your contact very impressive. I have a request. I didn’t see where I could personally message you, but I wanted to ask you can you please do a video on Kanye West DW line and how that fostered into His role in the fashion industry today and what happened to the original two collections that were produced

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      I am actually really interested in yhis and in Pastelle. I have no idea what really happened so I just want to research it until Im blue in the face

  • @yassercastillo2607
    @yassercastillo2607 10 місяців тому +3

    I always got the vibe that they wanted the brand to stay small and gatekept from the ones who didnt know it. Never crossed my mind that it didnt make profits 😮

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Its a shame really, they seem to have quite the following

  • @briannab2069
    @briannab2069 9 місяців тому +1

    Your voice is so soothing. It reminds me of Mel in Melbourne

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  9 місяців тому

      This comment reminds me of back in the 90s/2000s when we would go to America and everyone thought we were australian (Love Australia)

  • @fannykeith
    @fannykeith 10 місяців тому +2

    Not sure if this is the right approach to think of the brand, but given their seemingly consistently growing revenues, I can see why they were comfortable with losses as their valuation must have been growing as well. This was during a period of cheap money too, and when the cheap money era ended they truly exploded as quiet luxury started to trend.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Yes exactly. Is it really a loss if the business is worth the difference?

  • @slash364
    @slash364 10 місяців тому +1

    its a good day when understitch,

  • @jackanapes1492
    @jackanapes1492 10 місяців тому +3

    I don’t feel this resurgence is a flash in the pan. The Olsens capitalized on luxury items during the recession. Remember their backpacks that were insanely expensive? I recall reading an article post Great Recession on how luxury brands did well during the recession, and there was a quote from one of the Olsens mentioning how historically this is always the case which is why they decided to release the backpacks (paraphrasing of course).

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      Recessions tend to make the rich richer and the poor poorer 🤷

  • @natalierose1072
    @natalierose1072 10 місяців тому +2

    The Olsen twins were so effortlessly cool to middle school and teenage me.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Very much so, I enjoy their style a lot

  • @aaronjanlistanco
    @aaronjanlistanco 10 місяців тому +2

    Elizabeth Olsen (Mary-Kate Olsen & Ashley Olsen sister; known from her role Wanda Maximoff/Scarlet Witch from the MCU/Marvel Cinematic Universe) inspired from the defusion line of the ELIZABETH AND JAMES

  • @Contessa_Savannah
    @Contessa_Savannah 9 місяців тому +1

    As a side note: I credit Zoe Kravits as the celebrity endorsement of the brand. Her celebrity rose almost simultaneously as did the noteriaty of the brand to xennials and gen z. It's litterally all she wears and I believe her publicist worked out some sort of deal to with the The Row to make her a silent ambassador. And they chose the right person because she's not obvious like the Kardashians so it feels genuine. They don't seem like the kind of line to do that but desperate times call for desperate measures.

  • @segourneysavery5126
    @segourneysavery5126 10 місяців тому

    My favorite trousers are Elizabeth and James… hope to add a few items from The Row to my wardrobe soon 👌🏽

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      I didn't realise E+J had so much love honestly, but Im so glad to see it, I definitely need to do a video on them

  • @daniellagurtner7863
    @daniellagurtner7863 10 місяців тому

    thank you for you amazing work and research

  • @daviroman1198
    @daviroman1198 10 місяців тому +2

    The row has been iconic since 2007 and many fast fashion of that era stole design and concepts such as the vests and that “one tshirt”

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Unfortunately that idea of ‘one product’ far far predates the row Im afraid

  • @GuildfordGrace
    @GuildfordGrace 10 місяців тому +1

    Your content is beyond....... love ❤

  • @R.Eg.S
    @R.Eg.S 4 місяці тому

    nov 9, 2020 ep of the cut with aya kanai has interesting bit on how the using the tee in ashley’s vogue shoot was framed at the time. came across & immediately thought of this vid.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  4 місяці тому

      Honestly its been so long since I wrote the script for this that I dont remember exactly which articles I read (Im sure you can tell it was quite a few) but I enjoy The Cut a lot, its quite likely I read it, they have great articles

  • @welcomemoyo92
    @welcomemoyo92 10 місяців тому

    Quality work! Thank you.

  • @jockrlo04
    @jockrlo04 10 місяців тому +1

    They launched the first collection in a video of a girl walking around a house showing the versatility of the pieces

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Thats what they say for sure, but do you belivee that? Its a tshirt

  • @jewelminor8313
    @jewelminor8313 10 місяців тому

    I truly appreciate the TRUTHFULNESS in every video that is Revealed 🤩

  • @phil24111
    @phil24111 10 місяців тому +2

    i think Zadig would be an intresting brand to explore

  • @cozygirlfriend
    @cozygirlfriend 10 місяців тому +1

    I have the Mary Kate and Ashley influenced book, I found it at a used book store for $1

  • @thejussabu3185
    @thejussabu3185 10 місяців тому +4

    Can u pls do a video on comme des garcons and rei kawakubo ?

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Oh I need to, but itll take such a long time that I want to do it well

  • @aaronjanlistanco
    @aaronjanlistanco 10 місяців тому +2

    YESSSS!!!... thank you @understitch 😘

  • @jourdainjardin846
    @jourdainjardin846 10 місяців тому +1

    I purchased the 2010 sunglasses from Selfridges and never wore them, they are somewhere in storage

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      Oh nooo thats such a shame

    • @EmilyKresl
      @EmilyKresl Місяць тому

      I need to know how much you paid tho lol

  • @TiamattheDestroyerofWorlds
    @TiamattheDestroyerofWorlds 10 місяців тому +1

    Excellent and unusual vid.

  • @Rpm-o1y
    @Rpm-o1y 10 місяців тому

    With an impending recession, i genuinely dont think we will ever see another young luxury brand cement their place the way the old fashion houses have

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      You think? I think it may be exactly the time for a brand like that to sprout

  • @priyalimbachiya272
    @priyalimbachiya272 10 місяців тому +1

    The only downside is that their internships are credit only like most of the industry

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Unfortunately thats very common and also unfortunately for smaller brands, necessary. Its the bigger brands who shouldnt be allowed to have them unpaid

  • @Kinglystateof
    @Kinglystateof 10 місяців тому +2

    You’re watching Understitch✨

  • @catregime
    @catregime 10 місяців тому +1

    But if they TRULY wanted to get into design, which they did because I remember, how else are they supposed to do this as already established celebrities who are also very smart? They couldn’t ever be the struggling designers…and they have always been quiet about their stuff. And their fans trust them…so idk what else you want from them.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      Perhaps youve misunderstood the video

  • @BittersweetMayhem
    @BittersweetMayhem 10 місяців тому

    Where can i find info on marine serre? It seems to appear in a lot of music videos but is it actually a well known luxury brand?

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      I hace a video on MS already 🥰 ua-cam.com/video/GKvmvwifGWY/v-deo.htmlsi=JI-JLzWiMwACLTEF

  • @renaezelmar6718
    @renaezelmar6718 10 місяців тому

    I'm curious how the business model works now since Elizabeth and James shut down in 2020? I cant imagine that those other little brands turn enough profit to keep things going. Wondering if that means that the Row can now stand on its own two feet? 🤔

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      I truly dont know. I know they have a bigger audience now and their bags are doing particularly well, but thats no guarantee of profit at all. Honestly I wonder if theyre revving up for a sale

  • @printsphinx257
    @printsphinx257 10 місяців тому

    Amazing! Could you do Samuel Ross founder of A-Cold-Wall?

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      I nearly did a-cold-wall so many times and it just kept getting bumped bcs we havent have any new news for a while

    • @printsphinx257
      @printsphinx257 10 місяців тому

      Understandable! I believe he has moved production to Milan resigned as a director@@understitchYT

  • @ciaociara
    @ciaociara 10 місяців тому +2

    16:26 i have heard that most businesses don’t make money their first year, but a loss of £18,000,000 over 15 years before making profit is insane to me (i work in the industry)

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Yes its certainly a lot, it makes one wonder why they would persevere

  • @theghostofjosephinebaker1079
    @theghostofjosephinebaker1079 10 місяців тому +3

    love love love

  • @charmedprince
    @charmedprince 4 місяці тому +1

    In short, they used their brains. 🎯

  • @emin5488
    @emin5488 10 місяців тому +14

    They need a perfume.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Im sure its not far off

    • @ericaohmg95
      @ericaohmg95 10 місяців тому +1

      Yes! Elizabeth & James Nirvana French Grey is my fave perfume ever and it’s discontinued lol

  • @AE-nf8nz
    @AE-nf8nz 10 місяців тому

    love everything i have from their almost can’t wear anything else

  • @miguelstarboy5572
    @miguelstarboy5572 10 місяців тому +4

    love them sm but this is just overpriced af, yeah it's good quality but not made of diamonds, it would've been cool if they stayed more affordable as it started instead of just marketing for basic millionaires

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      But then theyd be no different to all the other celeb brands

    • @miguelstarboy5572
      @miguelstarboy5572 10 місяців тому

      @@understitchYT no cause all the other celebs make cheap crap, they could've made well designed stuff at an affordable price not necesserarily cheap, it's not worth it at all, years and years of the same boring basics but the price keeps going up...

  • @addon0
    @addon0 10 місяців тому

    are you the voice of gecko's garage?

  • @hawksandsparrows
    @hawksandsparrows 2 місяці тому

    Phoebes output at Chloe was and is vastly different for The Row and yet again im found confronting someone with an embarrassingly weak knowledge of fashion, at least in terms of contemporary references

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  2 місяці тому

      They both have distinct design styles, but it was in her absence that gave rise to so many similar brands to fill that gap. Is it in this video I show the timeline of that or in the Elizabeth and James one?
      None of them are identical, but similar and for similar audiences. They compete.

    • @hawksandsparrows
      @hawksandsparrows 2 місяці тому

      @@understitchYT I mean pre-Celiné Phoebe wasn’t minimalist or intellectual in any way. It was urban, sensual, very London 90’s. That’s what made her artistic growth so delightful

  • @ashhhx93
    @ashhhx93 10 місяців тому

    Call me crazy but I feel like they didn't pic a winner cause Gabi didn't like how hers translated on camera 🤣 I love this channel I say that with love lol

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      I dont understand?

    • @ashhhx93
      @ashhhx93 10 місяців тому

      @@understitchYT omg I have no idea how thay comment ended up on here 🤣 I'm so sorry. It was supposed to be the video I watched before I watched this one 🤣🤣 I'm lost too

  • @4u2nvskin58
    @4u2nvskin58 10 місяців тому

    The row is the best

  • @alexanderwolfe9268
    @alexanderwolfe9268 10 місяців тому

    Please do Chrome Hearts next

  • @Rbear-SF
    @Rbear-SF 5 місяців тому +2

    The Olsen twins are truly amazing and beautiful hard-working women!

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  4 місяці тому

      It’s certainly true that they could’ve just sat out and enjoyed life, but they didn’t and they’ve made something really enjoyable

  • @HendrixVital-lz4ld
    @HendrixVital-lz4ld 10 місяців тому +1

    That's what we called Industry Plants in the music business

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Its under their own company so a bit different but their money definitely got the brand to where it is

  • @piercenigel4670
    @piercenigel4670 10 місяців тому +1

    it's going to ex-plode! the number of margaux bags reviews and outré lotd with them i'm seeing is amazing. what i love is that there's nothing to review or wit to pose. it's a 2d cut of blackness. the end. the military-industrial complex of fashion-show-off can't cope with minimalism.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +2

      Sometimes the lack of features is exactly what one is looking for though, no?

    • @piercenigel4670
      @piercenigel4670 10 місяців тому

      @@understitchYT exactly. HOWEVER (i love the way you say that word ;-), these public fashionistas are not minimalists. the margaux is the bag du jour, so they just have to buy it - it's what they do. but the row doesn't lend itself to the types of content these people are used to make.

    • @piercenigel4670
      @piercenigel4670 10 місяців тому

      and you can see it in their faces that they hate it! 🤣

  • @ajae...
    @ajae... 10 місяців тому +1

    I would have never thought of Rockafella as a luxury brand. I know Sean Jean had a 5th Avenue store in NYC. It would be interesting to see a vodeo on the rise snd fall of hip hop brands. I know people will think it's a disservice to individual brands to put them together, but I always thought that with the exception of Kanye's brand they all had similar trajectories. Phat Farm, Baby Fat, and l Sean Jean on the high end, and Rockafella, G-Unit, Wu Wear, and FUBU on the lower end.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Interestingly, they all seem to have had different journeys and trajectories, none of these brands really had the same kind of fall, I’ll definitely be looking at them in the future

    • @ajae...
      @ajae... 10 місяців тому

      @@understitchYT Well, if that's so then I'd really like to see what you put together.

  • @user-cq5sg9cb4t
    @user-cq5sg9cb4t 10 місяців тому

    The Olsen sisters are based.

  • @CreativeArtandEnergy
    @CreativeArtandEnergy 10 місяців тому

    Who knows of this because of Soft White Underbelly?

  • @diaryandnotes5350
    @diaryandnotes5350 10 місяців тому

    🎉

  • @PrincessVelaryon
    @PrincessVelaryon 10 місяців тому +8

    Brands like the Row and Phoeby Philo know that their patrons and fans are the type of people that will support them through their racism.

    • @eddyt81
      @eddyt81 10 місяців тому +7

      ah yes, another individual with a victim complex.

    • @CupcakeQueenkrj
      @CupcakeQueenkrj 10 місяців тому

      how do u relate racism to having a victim complex?@@eddyt81

    • @leonaparic2089
      @leonaparic2089 10 місяців тому

      ah...lol

    • @jesusisapisces
      @jesusisapisces 10 місяців тому

      The Row? Racist? What happened?

    • @jesusisapisces
      @jesusisapisces 10 місяців тому

      ​@@eddyt81hypocrite. As if you'd support a black owned brand exposed for racism.

  • @Tweegrrl
    @Tweegrrl 10 місяців тому

    13:37 If the Row has a 30-60 year-old demographic, then why is their model a child?

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Its aspirational, same reason car ads have people in their early 20s despite them knowing full well thats a tiny part of their demographic

  • @Ste2023
    @Ste2023 10 місяців тому +1

    like kk , kylie , vic Beckham its HYPE.
    no one who knows about style would buy such crap .

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Its 100% hype, but every brand is, celebrity or otherwise

  • @lisamcallister6534
    @lisamcallister6534 10 місяців тому +2

    Never never never. And I'm not alone. Over hyped and over priced. Have you seen these clothes? You can tell if you handle them, no no no.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +1

      You think so? I was very impressed personally

  • @sarahwales6276
    @sarahwales6276 7 місяців тому +2

    Why would they be obligated to hire black people? They should hire people based on talent and suitability for the role not race.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  7 місяців тому +2

      It's not that they're forced to hire Black people, but that the total absence of an entire race of people, in New York, is unusual and to some, suspicious, especially when their Asian employees are less financially compensated for equal work

  • @connieb.4071
    @connieb.4071 10 місяців тому +6

    Not having black staff doesn't surprise me, their brand isn't geared towards black people

    • @Thisath100
      @Thisath100 10 місяців тому +2

      I agree that it's not surprising, but why do you think the latter statement? I do find it somewhat unfortunate that a majority of the current product shots aren't with POC on their website, but they look stunning on all that ARE on.

    • @dva5610
      @dva5610 10 місяців тому +1

      @@Thisath100the majority of their clients aren’t POC so why would they use POC models as a majority?

    • @Thisath100
      @Thisath100 10 місяців тому +1

      @@dva5610 ?? Who's saying that they should use POC as a majority of models?

    • @dva5610
      @dva5610 10 місяців тому +2

      @@Thisath100 YOU

    • @leonaparic2089
      @leonaparic2089 10 місяців тому +3

      🙄 here is the little fact, it is their company, they can hire who ever they want

  • @songsenkei
    @songsenkei 10 місяців тому +3

    You‘re making at least three figures from this video. The least you could do is buy their $45 book when you are this short on information on their brands.

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому +6

      What kind of maths did you do to figure that out?

  • @Notyagrandmasknits
    @Notyagrandmasknits 10 місяців тому

    I know that this brand is fairly new, but I would love if you did a video on area. It’s very interesting and I would love to learn more about how they rose so fast

    • @understitchYT
      @understitchYT  10 місяців тому

      Oh yeah! Super interesting brand