Two years later this motor is going strong ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxBZWgzfpS2Jj7JqIHyaSZjyVHNUgCKCBf Just uploaded a video of it after 2 years. We use it probably a dozen days each year on our small raft.-original review- We got this motor the other day and tested it out. I don't have anything to compare it to, but it seems good to me. It has all the features advertised - the motor housing is metal. We will see how it performs longer term and I will revise this review if needed. Some initial observations:- Good thrust, moves our boat around really well- It comes with a circuit breaker but no switch - so there's no way to kill the motor other than yanking the connection off the battery. I installed an inline switch.- The mount bracket is plastic and I worry it might break- There are a number of plastic parts that I worry about, but the most important ones are metal or some kind of composite
Thanks Mike. Mine had gotten very sluggish and recently very loud. After performing this procedure, it's now quiet again. Haven't had it on the water yet, but I'm pretty sure the pep will be back.
What your doing is changing the timing of the motor, be careful because increasing the RPM also increases the amp draw and also the operating temperature and decreasing the torque. Decreasing the RPM lowers the amp draw and increases torque and the motor runs cooler. Increased amp draw uses more battery and will lower your run time. This works on ALL DC motors.
Steve Komarinetz so I tried this and my motor turned up a lot, but my finis at the 8 o’clock position instead of the 6 o’clock position any suggestions
Thanks man! We can only use trollers on our lake and mine were noisy and slow. Now they work like new after using your tune up! I guess I should quit driving into rocks and snags huh!? :) That and I got bout 20 yards of braid out from under my prop! Gerry
Have the same motor. I tried to tune it but removed those long screws and now I am unable to line up or even get the sections together. Any ideas to correct problem. Thank you in advance for some idea to rectify .
So,I watched a few videos of this and did it to a new Endura 30 and 45. Both at 9 months old and both are now switch and brushless. Maybe on brushless motors but I wouldnt do it if yours has brushes.
I was wondering if it’s normal when I turn my prop with one finger it move rough like it’s skipping !! I fish around rocks and shallows for bass and walleye so it’s taken a beaten ... The motor shakes a bit but doesn’t make any loud noise .. Thanks
I am not sure on the Motor Guides, but I imagine the concept works the same. Not sure why it wouldn't. All the new Minnkota Trolling motors have a notch now to where it can't get knocked out of place.
I have had my motorguide for about 8 years now and just recently I noticed my fin had moved. I watched your video and fixed it from your tip. Thanks brother and yes it worked on a motor guide also. I do have a little squelling noise but its all better now. Its a 8 year old trolling motor that still works great thanks to your tip!! thanks again!!
Nice! My motor was stored for a few years. It works great when out of the water, when in the water it works for about 1 minute and stops. then when out of the water for about 10 minutes or so it works fine out of the water. Then dip it in the water and stops again. Any ideas?
Robert Birchard sounds like you might have a seal that has gone bad that is allowing water to get in and break the current in the head of the trolling motor. I suggest taking it to a MinnKota Warranty Center for them to drain it, dry it, check the brushes and replace the seals before it is completely cooked. Not good to leave the water in there. Need to the water out of there to keep rusting potential down.
Thanks for the quick answer! I was thinking the same as you so I bought a seal set Yesterday I replaced the seals. Although when I took it apart it was completely dry and looked factory new in there. I was surprised. I really thought it would be full of "stuff"... So, I filled a trash can with water in the garage, dipped it in and took it through all the testing I could think of. If on a lower speed, it will work for about 25 to 30 minutes and stop. Unplug the power, wait for 10 minutes and it will work again. If on full power it will cut off much quicker. Unplug power, wait and plug back in only to find the same symptoms again.
Robert Birchard Hmm. Sounds like a contact is becoming disconnected when heated up. I would check grounds in the foot and up in the head. And use a voltage meter to figure out if and where you are losing power.
Hi Michael, Do you have any suggestions for why my prop might be sticking? When I put it in gear I sometimes have to tap it (very lightly) and then it starts spinning. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
Mine did that for years and finally had it serviced and they showed me where the armature had a bad spot on the commutator. Replaced the armature and all is good now.
No the prop is not bent, I think that possibly the main shaft that holds the propeller may be bent just a hair, it is not visible by the eye but there is obviously something wrong. When I have it tweaked the shaft gets real hot but doesn't when its centered.
Robert Yoder I am sorry, I meant prop shaft or fin. Might be worth taking it to a warranty center as that sounds like a major mis alignment. If that is the case, can further cause seal problems or other internal problems, leaking etc. Hope that helps.
00JDMSir I don't see why you couldn't the mechanics on how the thrusting force is the same, the other things are what is different on a riptide. I adjust mine to as quiet as possible at high speed. Naturally you will have some sound, but the idea is to reduce sound which is internal friction, which will thus increase thrust. New ones don't typically require this, but on used, older and abused ones, it is worth checking and adjusting.
If you have time go to my page and I've posted a video of what its doing, just need some advise I imagine I'm going to have to take it somewhere and get it fixed. I've had it apart and magnets are good, the coil is good, the shaft seems to be strait but may not be. I'm leaning towards a bad bearing in the plat under the propeller. I'm pretty good at fixing things I just cant figure this one out. Its killing my batteries and I cant fish up current on rivers. So I gotta get somewhere soon.
Robert Yoder I just watched your video. It appears to me. That moisture has found its way into the head of your trolling motor. Do not put it back in the water or apply power until it is fixed. The sound you are most likely hearing is your bearing rusting. Your seal has most likely gone bad. All seems operational, which is a good thing, but it needs to be taken to a warranty center bearing replaced, seal replaced, bearing replaced and dried out/blown out with an air hose. Other components need to be made sure they are in good shape. Most everything is pretty durable. Currently there is just moisture. If you get any amount of water to bridge any voltage, you could short it out, so I wouldn’t suggest putting it back in the water until fixed.
Dude jesus who the fck cares about scatching your motor!!! I mean g*d damn! The motor is in the water. You gotta be kidding me. Boats and almost all parts get scuffed up.
Two years later this motor is going strong ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxBZWgzfpS2Jj7JqIHyaSZjyVHNUgCKCBf Just uploaded a video of it after 2 years. We use it probably a dozen days each year on our small raft.-original review- We got this motor the other day and tested it out. I don't have anything to compare it to, but it seems good to me. It has all the features advertised - the motor housing is metal. We will see how it performs longer term and I will revise this review if needed. Some initial observations:- Good thrust, moves our boat around really well- It comes with a circuit breaker but no switch - so there's no way to kill the motor other than yanking the connection off the battery. I installed an inline switch.- The mount bracket is plastic and I worry it might break- There are a number of plastic parts that I worry about, but the most important ones are metal or some kind of composite
Thanks Mike. Mine had gotten very sluggish and recently very loud. After performing this procedure, it's now quiet again. Haven't had it on the water yet, but I'm pretty sure the pep will be back.
Use a marker! Don't scratch off the paint...especially for a motor used in salt water
That's a great tip. I'm a little embarrassed I had not considered this before. Never even thought about it. So thank you.
great tip man, ive know this for years but explaining it over forums and trying to get point across is hard. thanks for taking the time.
Great video, I just adjusted mine after watching this and it worked perfectly.
Thank for the video! Never knew why my motor was loud and vibrated like crazy until I saw this.
My brand new one does that too right out of the box. Going to try this.
Gonna go tune mine here shortly.
Thanks for the info Michael!
What your doing is changing the timing of the motor, be careful because increasing the RPM also increases the amp draw and also the operating temperature and decreasing the torque. Decreasing the RPM lowers the amp draw and increases torque and the motor runs cooler. Increased amp draw uses more battery and will lower your run time. This works on ALL DC motors.
Steve Komarinetz so I tried this and my motor turned up a lot, but my finis at the 8 o’clock position instead of the 6 o’clock position any suggestions
@@robertyoder6159also curious about this as mines same way after adjusting it right now.
Thanks man! We can only use trollers on our lake and mine were noisy and slow. Now they work like new after using your tune up! I guess I should quit driving into rocks and snags huh!? :) That and I got bout 20 yards of braid out from under my prop!
Gerry
Have the same motor. I tried to tune it but removed those long screws and now I am unable to line up or even get the sections together. Any ideas to correct problem. Thank you in advance for some idea to rectify .
So,I watched a few videos of this and did it to a new Endura 30 and 45. Both at 9 months old and both are now switch and brushless. Maybe on brushless motors but I wouldnt do it if yours has brushes.
I was wondering if it’s normal when I turn my prop with one finger it move rough like it’s skipping !! I fish around rocks and shallows for bass and walleye so it’s taken a beaten ... The motor shakes a bit but doesn’t make any loud noise .. Thanks
Michael well done on the video and thanks for the tip..... Who knew????
Wish I'd seen it four years ago (lol)
is this what folks call "vibration" in the trolling motor?
If I do this it will not damage the seal?
I'm just wondering who gave a thumbs down on this video? Haters going to hate I guess! Thanks for the tip I learned something new today great video👍
Nathan, Appreciate the follow! Glad to help!
Mine does make a bit of noise and hopefully this helps!
does this work on a motor guide trolling motor? I think mine need some love. great tip!!
I am not sure on the Motor Guides, but I imagine the concept works the same. Not sure why it wouldn't. All the new Minnkota Trolling motors have a notch now to where it can't get knocked out of place.
I have had my motorguide for about 8 years now and just recently I noticed my fin had moved. I watched your video and fixed it from your tip. Thanks brother and yes it worked on a motor guide also. I do have a little squelling noise but its all better now. Its a 8 year old trolling motor that still works great thanks to your tip!! thanks again!!
Nice! My motor was stored for a few years. It works great when out of the water, when in the water it works for about 1 minute and stops. then when out of the water for about 10 minutes or so it works fine out of the water. Then dip it in the water and stops again. Any ideas?
Robert Birchard sounds like you might have a seal that has gone bad that is allowing water to get in and break the current in the head of the trolling motor. I suggest taking it to a MinnKota Warranty Center for them to drain it, dry it, check the brushes and replace the seals before it is completely cooked. Not good to leave the water in there. Need to the water out of there to keep rusting potential down.
Thanks for the quick answer! I was thinking the same as you so I bought a seal set Yesterday I replaced the seals. Although when I took it apart it was completely dry and looked factory new in there. I was surprised. I really thought it would be full of "stuff"... So, I filled a trash can with water in the garage, dipped it in and took it through all the testing I could think of. If on a lower speed, it will work for about 25 to 30 minutes and stop. Unplug the power, wait for 10 minutes and it will work again. If on full power it will cut off much quicker. Unplug power, wait and plug back in only to find the same symptoms again.
Robert Birchard Hmm. Sounds like a contact is becoming disconnected when heated up. I would check grounds in the foot and up in the head. And use a voltage meter to figure out if and where you are losing power.
Should you not adjust this under load?
Hi Michael,
Do you have any suggestions for why my prop might be sticking? When I put it in gear I sometimes have to tap it (very lightly) and then it starts spinning. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
You could have a piece of the magnet broke off inside. It is a painless fix, but would suggest to take it to a MinnKota warranty center.
Mine did that for years and finally had it serviced and they showed me where the armature had a bad spot on the commutator. Replaced the armature and all is good now.
Your brushes are sticking
Michael,
Thanks...that was a great tip! I Enjoyed the video too!
So I tuned mine and now it’s running better than ever but, the fin is in the 8 o’clock position instead of the 6 o’clock position. Any suggestions
Robert Yoder hmm, interesting... is the prop bent? Not sure without seeing it.
Michael Murphy what do u mean prop
No the prop is not bent, I think that possibly the main shaft that holds the propeller may be bent just a hair, it is not visible by the eye but there is obviously something wrong. When I have it tweaked the shaft gets real hot but doesn't when its centered.
Robert Yoder I am sorry, I meant prop shaft or fin. Might be worth taking it to a warranty center as that sounds like a major mis alignment. If that is the case, can further cause seal problems or other internal problems, leaking etc. Hope that helps.
😁😁😂😂🤣🤣 bend back to 4 o'clock
Awesome tip! Thanks!
Great DIY tip. Thanks for the info.
Awesome tip but watch out for then drawstrings! Lol
looks like you just advanced the timing on that motor.
drvonhoss
I re thought about this. I'll pass. You are better off getting a new motor. Shouldn't be using a motor after 5 years.
Great tip....never been told about this
can i do this on the Minnkota Riptide?is it supossed to sound loud or quiet at full power?
HOT TIP" THANX ALOT from Idaho!
If you have a new motor you could mark it so then if it did get knocked out you could tell right away how much it's moved
Automatic? You mean constant on don't you. Bindings?
Thanks Michael...good info!
Very cool and a must try !!
Michael, does anyone know how to rig a V Drive to use both
iPilot and foot control?
David Penfield like what the Ultrex does?
Good tip. Thanks
Thanks. Great tip.
Hey thanks i needed that,good video!!!
great tip!
Thank you for the tip👍
great tip thanks
Thanks for the info.....
00JDMSir I don't see why you couldn't the mechanics on how the thrusting force is the same, the other things are what is different on a riptide. I adjust mine to as quiet as possible at high speed. Naturally you will have some sound, but the idea is to reduce sound which is internal friction, which will thus increase thrust. New ones don't typically require this, but on used, older and abused ones, it is worth checking and adjusting.
good job
thanks you for the video
wow that is great info
Yes quieter but OOPS! now my skeg is off center and it doesn't track straight any longer.
ROFLMFAO 😁😁😂😂🤣🤣
If you have time go to my page and I've posted a video of what its doing, just need some advise I imagine I'm going to have to take it somewhere and get it fixed. I've had it apart and magnets are good, the coil is good, the shaft seems to be strait but may not be. I'm leaning towards a bad bearing in the plat under the propeller. I'm pretty good at fixing things I just cant figure this one out. Its killing my batteries and I cant fish up current on rivers. So I gotta get somewhere soon.
Robert Yoder I just watched your video. It appears to me. That moisture has found its way into the head of your trolling motor. Do not put it back in the water or apply power until it is fixed. The sound you are most likely hearing is your bearing rusting. Your seal has most likely gone bad. All seems operational, which is a good thing, but it needs to be taken to a warranty center bearing replaced, seal replaced, bearing replaced and dried out/blown out with an air hose. Other components need to be made sure they are in good shape. Most everything is pretty durable. Currently there is just moisture. If you get any amount of water to bridge any voltage, you could short it out, so I wouldn’t suggest putting it back in the water until fixed.
use a silver marker guys, dont scratch your motor
Dude jesus who the fck cares about scatching your motor!!! I mean g*d damn! The motor is in the water. You gotta be kidding me. Boats and almost all parts get scuffed up.
nice Ta
great tip thanks