I found out that the difference between the head stock and tailstock could be solved by adjusting the head stock. Previously, I had only focused on the horizontal relationship. I have since aligned it. Thank you so very much for watching! ♥
What amazes me the most about your videos, Sensei -- Your very obvious love you have for your craft as the Wood Sensei that you are .... You and the Wood seem to be very much as One. The Sensei and his Craft seem seamless. 🧘🧘🧘🧘
I don't like your videos. Yeah, because I don't get on social media much during the weekends so I see them when I am at work when I am supposed to be working - but I would much rather watch you do your work!! So, I don't like your videos - but I sure do love them! Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming!
@@patrickbink4617 😂😂 That’s alright! Comments count more than likes, I think! If you would share my videos with your social media audience, that would be awesome 👏🏻 ❤️
@@ClaytonsWoodArt The use of the wire to create a burned inset was something I haven't seen before. More successful problem-solving and lessons learned. The bowl came out looking pretty sharp!
Hot glue is very sensitive to surface contamination. In fact, you can separate a hot glue joint by brushing it with alcohol, mineral spirits, or lacquer thinner. On porous surfaces, you may need to give it some "soak time" to break the joint, but it will work. I seldom use hot glue in wood turning because I can never be certain that the surfaces are clean.
@@clarencegreen3071 I know there are some turners that just put a dab around the waste block. Does the above explanation hold to those who have hot glue in an electric frying pan and really soak the waste block?
@@morgancalvi6675 One thing the frying pan method does for you is to make sure the waste block is completely coated and also preheats the waste block so the glue doesn't start to cool before a full coating is achieved. I believe this method is as good as you can do with hot glue. My go-to method is to use 5-minute epoxy applied to the face of the waste block and then clamped in place with the tailstock. It takes a little longer, like about an hour for the epoxy to fully cure, but I've never had a failure. Of course you will have to turn the waste block away since there is no easy way to remove the epoxy.
I found out that the difference between the head stock and tailstock could be solved by adjusting the head stock. Previously, I had only focused on the horizontal relationship. I have since aligned it. Thank you so very much for watching! ♥
Great bowl/dish, love the wire burned in detail. Another fine video!
@@ralphmalloch8239 Thank you 😊
Loved the detailing on the bowl! Another really great piece of art!
Thank you, user-do❤️😂😂
What amazes me the most about your videos, Sensei --
Your very obvious love you have for your craft as the Wood Sensei that you are ....
You and the Wood seem to be very much as One. The Sensei and his Craft seem seamless.
🧘🧘🧘🧘
@@agentx2316 I’m going to screenshot this and post it on my website!😎🫘😂
Thank you for the praise 👏🏻
Very nice bowl.
@@jamessurrarrer1026 Thank you very much!!😁
The hot glue not sticking to the shellac was probably heavily influenced by the misalignment!
I don't like your videos. Yeah, because I don't get on social media much during the weekends so I see them when I am at work when I am supposed to be working - but I would much rather watch you do your work!! So, I don't like your videos - but I sure do love them! Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming!
@@patrickbink4617 😂😂
That’s alright! Comments count more than likes, I think! If you would share my videos with your social media audience, that would be awesome 👏🏻 ❤️
@@ClaytonsWoodArt The use of the wire to create a burned inset was something I haven't seen before. More successful problem-solving and lessons learned. The bowl came out looking pretty sharp!
Thanks, Brother 👍🏻
Excellent bowl. Love it. ❤
@@vernabink2865 Thanks, Mom! ❤️
Did the hot glue not hold because the bottom was waxy?
@@morgancalvi6675 I had sanded the wax off. I really think it was due to the headstock being misaligned. The shellac probably didn’t help.
Hot glue is very sensitive to surface contamination. In fact, you can separate a hot glue joint by brushing it with alcohol, mineral spirits, or lacquer thinner. On porous surfaces, you may need to give it some "soak time" to break the joint, but it will work. I seldom use hot glue in wood turning because I can never be certain that the surfaces are clean.
@@clarencegreen3071 Thank you, Clarence!
@@clarencegreen3071 I know there are some turners that just put a dab around the waste block. Does the above explanation hold to those who have hot glue in an electric frying pan and really soak the waste block?
@@morgancalvi6675 One thing the frying pan method does for you is to make sure the waste block is completely coated and also preheats the waste block so the glue doesn't start to cool before a full coating is achieved. I believe this method is as good as you can do with hot glue.
My go-to method is to use 5-minute epoxy applied to the face of the waste block and then clamped in place with the tailstock. It takes a little longer, like about an hour for the epoxy to fully cure, but I've never had a failure. Of course you will have to turn the waste block away since there is no easy way to remove the epoxy.