Great video. Thank you. As someone who has been known to get a fit of the giggles at the most inappropriate of times, I do sympathise with your assistant!
That's what happens when you whack one in the bottom, it's pretty hard to keep a straight face. Personally I'd have more of a look of shock than a smile on my face, but hey each to their own.
You are a king mate. I have to repair a colrbond post that was bend. Fortunately only 1 of the 2 side by side post are bent.No choice but to replace it. Problem is it's cemented into the ground as it should but also the neighbour cemented his walkway right up to the post. So it's either excavate and cut some concrete or just do a crap patch. Now I have a similar plan. Cheers
Great video! Two questions though: 1) How do you adapt at the corners? 2) Most concrete sleepers are 2m and Colorbond is 2.4. Are you cutting the Colorbond down to fit the 2m length of sleeper or ? Thank you so much ☺️
We have a concrete sleeper fence using galvanised H posts. We would like to attach fence brackets to posts but would rather not pull out all the sleepers.. would welding the bracket only along the top part that joins to post be sufficient for securing bracket to post for colorbond fence?
Hi Lee great educational video. My question is with the predrilled flat bar is it only predrilled to the point where the Tek screw still cuts a thread in the flat bar or is it only relying on the screw thread cutting into the Colourbond Fence post? If it is cutting a thread into the flat bar would it not be stronger to sandwich the post between the Tek screw head and flat bar although than the post would have to be marked or predrilled to line up
Great idea as apposed to using crank posts or shs intermediates. Can I ask how you get the sleepers to the right height? Just packing underneath them or do you trowel the concrete to the correct height when you post? thanks
We use spacers . I’ve tried to set the concrete at the right height but always need spacers . You can buy them from Bunnings or make them . The sleepers don’t always have the same thickness . The others tip is get you posts rolled with a bit extra. We install 1800mm high and use 1810mm posts. Remember the I beam should sit 10 mm below the sleeper .
You're a natural in front of the camera - good information, succinctly put. This video, and the one on setting the wall in, couldn't have come at a better time. A fencer just introduced me to this wall and fence arrangement, and although I haven't got his quote yet, I fear it's going to compel me to do this job myself - I built my house, so should be good with this (and I have a welder). Keep your videos coming. Questions: those screws seem quite long - wouldn't they interfere with the fence panels, and what thickness flat bar do you use please?
Jonathan M use 8mm+ thick flatbar and the screws you would think would be too long but the sheets goes around it inside if that makes sense. If unsure get shorter screws
Hi Lee, my neighbour and i have to do exactly this in a few weeks. Is there a minimum depth for the retaining wall H beams have to be in the ground when doing a standard colourbond fence into ground its 600mm hole with a 150 footing. Should we treat retain and fence as a 7ft colourbond fence and do deeper holes? The fence is 100m long about 50m retaining wall. Thanks. Daz
darkofheartness77 hi usually whatever you go up for retaining you should go down into the ground. I would recommend 450mm wide hole as well. You should get it engineered to be sure you are doing adequate hole depth etc.
@@leebenson77 Thanks very much. Need some retaining walls done. Is it possible you could give me a quote. Was gonna try it myself but just can't be bothered 😂😂
Great video. Thank you. As someone who has been known to get a fit of the giggles at the most inappropriate of times, I do sympathise with your assistant!
Funny
I have always wondered how these are put up. Thanks for sharing. Your assistant couldn't hold it together hahaha.
That's what happens when you whack one in the bottom, it's pretty hard to keep a straight face. Personally I'd have more of a look of shock than a smile on my face, but hey each to their own.
You are a king mate. I have to repair a colrbond post that was bend. Fortunately only 1 of the 2 side by side post are bent.No choice but to replace it. Problem is it's cemented into the ground as it should but also the neighbour cemented his walkway right up to the post. So it's either excavate and cut some concrete or just do a crap patch. Now I have a similar plan. Cheers
Jack Tinny no worries
Great videos mate! Very Helpful!
Thanks heaps
Good job guys.... I'm a learner in this that is really good
Dud Adam no worries
@@leebenson77 I learned more from videos thanks mate keep going well done cheers
how thick is the flat bar ???? 8mm 10mm ??? great job great idea
8mm
Can I do the same if I want to install aluminum slat fencing on top of an existing concrete sleeper retaining wall?
Great video! Two questions though: 1) How do you adapt at the corners? 2) Most concrete sleepers are 2m and Colorbond is 2.4. Are you cutting the Colorbond down to fit the 2m length of sleeper or ? Thank you so much ☺️
We have a concrete sleeper fence using galvanised H posts. We would like to attach fence brackets to posts but would rather not pull out all the sleepers.. would welding the bracket only along the top part that joins to post be sufficient for securing bracket to post for colorbond fence?
What do you think you should do if it's galvanised H section posts?
Hi Lee great educational video. My question is with the predrilled flat bar is it only predrilled to the point where the Tek screw still cuts a thread in the flat bar or is it only relying on the screw thread cutting into the Colourbond Fence post?
If it is cutting a thread into the flat bar would it not be stronger to sandwich the post between the Tek screw head and flat bar although than the post would have to be marked or predrilled to line up
Great idea as apposed to using crank posts or shs intermediates. Can I ask how you get the sleepers to the right height? Just packing underneath them or do you trowel the concrete to the correct height when you post? thanks
cammy470 you trowel the concrete at the right height, but sometimes you may need to pack it as well underneath the sleepers.
We use spacers . I’ve tried to set the concrete at the right height but always need spacers . You can buy them from Bunnings or make them . The sleepers don’t always have the same thickness . The others tip is get you posts rolled with a bit extra. We install 1800mm high and use 1810mm posts. Remember the I beam should sit 10 mm below the sleeper .
@@adammangan1342 If the concrete sleeper fits the groove a short cut off Star Picket placed in the groove should do the job. Just a thought.
Yeah g'day fellow South Aussie! Great authentic vid!
What did you use to punch the holes in your 8mm thick steel plates?
Got them cut with a water jet service
Is there no issue re rust /corrosion with the flat bar being mild and not gal?
mijangoz give the mild steel a good paint with thick rust proof paint. Otherwise galv is a better option 👍
You can also get cold galv paint in a can. Just prep the surface and remove any surface rust.
Hi mate, what model welder do you use?
You're a natural in front of the camera - good information, succinctly put. This video, and the one on setting the wall in, couldn't have come at a better time. A fencer just introduced me to this wall and fence arrangement, and although I haven't got his quote yet, I fear it's going to compel me to do this job myself - I built my house, so should be good with this (and I have a welder). Keep your videos coming.
Questions: those screws seem quite long - wouldn't they interfere with the fence panels, and what thickness flat bar do you use please?
Jonathan M no worries
Jonathan M use 8mm+ thick flatbar and the screws you would think would be too long but the sheets goes around it inside if that makes sense.
If unsure get shorter screws
Thanks man - appreciate it. J.
hey mate have you installed the flat bar any other way other than welding ? eg. bolts ? is it sufficient ? for a 2.4m span?
You can bolt it if you want. But I’ve never done it
Pretty much it hahaha
Nice love your video 👌
Thanks mate
Good mate.
Hi
are those 1800mm spans or 2400mm spans
2m
Hi Lee, my neighbour and i have to do exactly this in a few weeks. Is there a minimum depth for the retaining wall H beams have to be in the ground when doing a standard colourbond fence into ground its 600mm hole with a 150 footing. Should we treat retain and fence as a 7ft colourbond fence and do deeper holes? The fence is 100m long about 50m retaining wall. Thanks. Daz
darkofheartness77 hi usually whatever you go up for retaining you should go down into the ground. I would recommend 450mm wide hole as well.
You should get it engineered to be sure you are doing adequate hole depth etc.
@@leebenson77 Ok thanks, for that mate. will def take that into account. Do you do a wider hole for retaining and fence?
darkofheartness77 you should dig holes deeper if you have fence ontop as well as retaining.
Again best to get engineering if you can.
What for 1 sleeper under colourbond and 450mm hole what the lol
does the welded on bit sit in between 2 posts or just in one of the rails
Sits on one side of the c channel post
@@leebenson77 Thanks very much. Need some retaining walls done. Is it possible you could give me a quote. Was gonna try it myself but just can't be bothered 😂😂
Do you live in Adelaide?
@@leebenson77 Happy valley
Please search for us on google
Lee benson fencing
Nice work will rust out in a couple of months and bleed down the concrete sleepers
Great job, love it...apart from your guy behind the camera, pretty annoying laughing aimlessly...
Nothing wrong with having a laugh mate, I bet these guys do professional installs while having fun and a laugh as a team 🤙
Looks absolutely dog shit when u put them over the top.why not use a bracket that just sits in one side.
thats what this is