I meant like the black line design could be a different material than the orange part of the ball. Maybe that adds a rigid structure to the bouncy bits?
It's interesting how far we have gotten with 3d printing technology. Especially that we're at the point where we can make 3d printed basketballs that bounces.
I've wanted to do a pickle ball and this is great research material. Thank you for all of the testing and feedback! You're saving us time and filament! You can reduce the layer lines and still print faster by just changing the layer height on the very end and beginning of the print. That way it won't be as noticeable and you can still save a few days!
You should try making a consistent way to launch them through the air to see how much the air resistance is actually making a difference to flight path
Great video! Thanks for testing everything! The timesave with the 0.6 nozzle is huge. I am glad i waited and bought one. 😅 I am curious what difference 0.8 nozzle would make. But now i have all parts ready and will soon start printing. Your print profile for the PEBA filament isnt on Makerworld anymore? Did you dry the PEBA filament before printing?
@@oclk8650 Thanks! Ha a 0.8 nozzle would be fun to try. I actually have never uploaded the profile to Makerworld because it has a custom filament profile, but I found a way to change it so I will add it soon. It is available on Thingiverse/Printables/Cults3D though. I would recommend drying the PEBA before printing if you have a dryer
Dude... Great video! Durability test outside was crucial! PEBA looks like the ticket! Great you pumped up the ball with appropriate air to match! Checked all the boxes in this video. Best reason for printing this is the noise! It would be nice to get the weight and bounce the same. You're so close to having this match. I may take a stab at modeling to match weight and bounce. Hard to do R & D when the filament is so expensive! I also wonder if there is a world where two filaments could be used. Haven't put any thought into that. Just an idea. Again. This video was fantastic!
@@PropScientist Much appreciated! I am working on fixing the models to be in the right weight, and yes PEBA is the best bounce so far but I am excited about a couple other options that will hopefully match the peba or even beat it. And multiple materials would open up a lot of options and definitely worth looking into.
I think there are water disolving materials out there if you want to print the support with that, that maybe will aliviate the need to sand the bottom layer of the airless basketball.
@@aritzsantana9577 I definitely think that would be a good idea, but these filaments aren't compatible with my AMS on my printer so I would have to invest in a multi-material printer or something
What PEBA filament were you using and can you share the STL file with the exact setting you used for the PLA ball and can it be printed on the ender creality 3 v3 se?
@@Mxmba24 hey there, this is the peba filament I used: indicatetechnologies.com/products/kimya-peba-s?_pos=59&_fid=7f47f9c39&_ss=c The stl is on Thingiverse, printables, Makerworld, but here is a link: www.printables.com/model/946488-airless-basketball-models-double-lattice-bounces-g It looks like the creality 3 v3 would probably work for PEBA, but you will have to scale the file down to print a full size basketball. A printer bed that is 256x256x256 is needed to print a full size
Maybe you should try an even bigger noozle. Just to check if there is a diference in durability... Once that is checked, printing any project should take even less time...
In your PEBA settings video you said to use 5 top layers, but when i change the nozzle size to 0.6 the top layers change also to 3. Did you change anything? Also the print speed on your PEBA.m3f on Printables says 44mm/s and in your settings video you have it at 40mm/s. I know its not a big difference in speed but i am just making sure before i hit print. :D
Hey, I wonder if the settings defaulted when switched to 0.6? It should still be 5 top layer. And for speed, I did change it because 44 mm/s did work when I tried it so that is what I left on the profile, but it will probably depend on the printer. If it is a bed slinger I would slow it down even below 40
what is the second best filament to print with behind peba? are these new filaments you used the best for a cheaper option or what would you recommend?
@@SS-cx3zh I would say that the second best would probably be the Ataraxia Art flex PLA. It is cheap compared to the other filaments, but the bounce is almost the same as some of the best (besides PEBA of course). I am going to try their bouncy version of the filament, so hopefully that will have good results
Did you try to change the design? What happens if you remove the artificial seems? What impact have a finer or rougher mesh structure have? Does a thicker or thinner wall is more bouncy?
When I was originally designing our model I tested a few things. Removing the seams added just a slight increase in bounce but less grip, and the big factor for bounce was having even thickness between lattice gaps and the lattice structure. I have not tested much with the finer/rougher mesh structure or thicker/thinner walls yet though. All worth testing at some point for sure
Using the Ataraxia flex filament with Bambu textured plate, it was impossible to get the ball to come off without warping it a bit. How do you remove them from the bed? Also, are you using a flap disc with the angle grinder? What grit?
@@firekartaker Hey there, I am not selling any right now. I might look into it because there seems to be some interest but the main issue for these basketballs is that they would be fairly expensive, especially the PEBA.
I love this series :^), but how many balls could you make out of 1 Rolf the PEBA filament, and would you recommend the 1.75mm diameter or the 2.85, thanks.
Much appreciated! To make a full-sized basketball you would need 2 rolls (640 total grams with supports), but if you scale the model down you can print a smaller-sized basketball with 1 roll. I would recommend the 1.75mm - good luck!
@@CCBCodeMonkey Hey, no the only thing I do to the basketballs after printing is sand the supports down. I am actually surprised they are holding up this well. I think annealing will always help though
@@makeitlabchannel man mine hold up like yours. I just had another one break on the layer lines printed with 0.6... though that layer I had the printer paused for over an hour because of a clog and it broke exactly on that layer
@@makeitlabchannel 0.8mm is double the diameter of 0.4mm and about the volume cubed. Also use arnachie mode in slicer settings (orca & bambu slicers) you'll see crazy flow characteristics Edit: Volume of 0.4mm is about 33 The Volume of 0.8mm is 268
So you say the regular basketball is superior when you watched it in slow motion, but the peba airless had more bounce. How do you know? Because the real basketball started landing sooner and sooner, which meant it wasn't gaining as much height and thus landing sooner.
@@menchelke I should have mentioned in this video that it was based off a previous test/video that I did. The PEBA and regular basketball are very close when dropped around chest height, but when I tested the peba and regular ball above a 6 foot drop, the real basketball definitely bounced higher
Why does the offical basketball model listed on DUD v2 PLA B filament page have a print time of 68 hours? What’s the difference with your model and theirs? Thanks!
There are several things that can vary the airless basketball print time by quite a bit - the model design itself, the size of the nozzle, the printing speed, number of walls vs. infill, etc. From what I can gather, the 68 hours looks like it is based on using a 0.6mm nozzle at a 0.18mm layer height with their model. It looks like they might have altered the PartyLime Gen 13 model or created their own to look very similar. I don't think there is a huge difference between their model and mine, except for the looks.
Hey, is the printer new? First thing I would check is the wiring - everything connected/plugged in where it should be? Do you receive any error messages?
I don’t know if you would, but would you consider selling one of the basketballs? It’s a far fetched ask, but I just wanted to see. I just really don’t want to spend more money for a potential fail.
I’m in the exact same boat. I would love to buy one off you 😂 I have the time and patience to print one, but the whole 120 dollars of filament to make about 1 and a half balls makes it a little useless ya know? I wish they sold 750 gram rolls of peba.
@@makeitlabchannel well… if your too worried about it, sell it to me for just enough to cover shipping. That way I can’t complain.🤣 if I paid to get it here then that’s what I get.
peba basketball is like a floor hockey airless ball, idk if you tested PETG filament yet, that might be better than just PLA, and similar to PEBA, maybe. try kicking them, like a soccer ball.
@@Misc_Identity Someone suggested wrapping an airless basketball with the basketball leather/rubber to maybe decrease the wind resistance. Worth a try but yes definitely can't match a regular ball yet
From what I have tested, I would say that the Ataraxia Art Flex PLA would be second because it is definitely the cheapest option and bounces pretty much just as good as the others (besides PEBA) that I have tried. I just got the bouncy version of their PLA so I am hoping it will be even better
What should we try next?
Maybe see if mixing filaments gives better results? flexible pla and some filament that goes along with it?
@@kanav1998 I would have to invest in a mulit-material 3D printer but I definitely think that has potential!
I meant like the black line design could be a different material than the orange part of the ball. Maybe that adds a rigid structure to the bouncy bits?
@@kanav1998 oh gotcha, definitely something to look into 😁
.8mm!
Underrated content. I love quality diy R&D videos like this where the whole journey is on near-full display.
@@ReileyU Much appreciated!
It's interesting how far we have gotten with 3d printing technology. Especially that we're at the point where we can make 3d printed basketballs that bounces.
@@Vibranium_man I agree, and I am excited to see where it will be at in 5-10 years. Probably pretty crazy stuff
I've wanted to do a pickle ball and this is great research material. Thank you for all of the testing and feedback!
You're saving us time and filament!
You can reduce the layer lines and still print faster by just changing the layer height on the very end and beginning of the print.
That way it won't be as noticeable and you can still save a few days!
@@jdjr3640 oh that would be a fun project, and yes that is a great note about changing the beginning/end layer heights for saving time!
You should try making a consistent way to launch them through the air to see how much the air resistance is actually making a difference to flight path
@@thelastvbuck That would be a good experiment - I am thinking some sort of canon lol
@@makeitlabchannel supposedly haha
Airless basketball? I'm pretty sure I saw a lot of air balls in this footage 😁
@@Troglobitten Ah dang that was such a a good burn lol, and you are not wrong 😂
love ur vids they are so helpful
i really think ur underrated keep up the work and tturn on monetisation
almost at 2k❤
@@pearfamily-p3x Much appreciated!
agreeed
@@phil6348 I appreciate that 😁
Great video! Thanks for testing everything! The timesave with the 0.6 nozzle is huge. I am glad i waited and bought one. 😅 I am curious what difference 0.8 nozzle would make. But now i have all parts ready and will soon start printing. Your print profile for the PEBA filament isnt on Makerworld anymore? Did you dry the PEBA filament before printing?
@@oclk8650 Thanks! Ha a 0.8 nozzle would be fun to try. I actually have never uploaded the profile to Makerworld because it has a custom filament profile, but I found a way to change it so I will add it soon. It is available on Thingiverse/Printables/Cults3D though. I would recommend drying the PEBA before printing if you have a dryer
@@makeitlabchannel you really need to try 0.8mm nozzle, it's quadruple time saving.
@@madbuldog well dang, guess I have to try it!
Dude... Great video! Durability test outside was crucial! PEBA looks like the ticket! Great you pumped up the ball with appropriate air to match! Checked all the boxes in this video. Best reason for printing this is the noise! It would be nice to get the weight and bounce the same. You're so close to having this match. I may take a stab at modeling to match weight and bounce. Hard to do R & D when the filament is so expensive! I also wonder if there is a world where two filaments could be used. Haven't put any thought into that. Just an idea. Again. This video was fantastic!
@@PropScientist Much appreciated! I am working on fixing the models to be in the right weight, and yes PEBA is the best bounce so far but I am excited about a couple other options that will hopefully match the peba or even beat it. And multiple materials would open up a lot of options and definitely worth looking into.
Also, I love your voice in the videos. It’s amazing😅
Thank you!
Now I know why he does not show his face. This is Chum Lee!. 😅 love your efforts chum!
@@terranceroberts6259 This cracked me up lol
I think there are water disolving materials out there if you want to print the support with that, that maybe will aliviate the need to sand the bottom layer of the airless basketball.
@@aritzsantana9577 I definitely think that would be a good idea, but these filaments aren't compatible with my AMS on my printer so I would have to invest in a multi-material printer or something
@@makeitlabchannelIf your on a budget I would recommend an LNL tenlog D3 pro
It is an IDEX 300x300x350 at $500
@@makeitlabchannel PVA should work fine with the AMS, though I might be wrong
What PEBA filament were you using and can you share the STL file with the exact setting you used for the PLA ball and can it be printed on the ender creality 3 v3 se?
@@Mxmba24 hey there, this is the peba filament I used: indicatetechnologies.com/products/kimya-peba-s?_pos=59&_fid=7f47f9c39&_ss=c
The stl is on Thingiverse, printables, Makerworld, but here is a link: www.printables.com/model/946488-airless-basketball-models-double-lattice-bounces-g
It looks like the creality 3 v3 would probably work for PEBA, but you will have to scale the file down to print a full size basketball. A printer bed that is 256x256x256 is needed to print a full size
@@Mxmba24 oh and for settings, we have a video on everything here : ua-cam.com/video/BtqjUwdIx30/v-deo.html
Maybe you should try an even bigger noozle. Just to check if there is a diference in durability... Once that is checked, printing any project should take even less time...
I will look into it 😁
In your PEBA settings video you said to use 5 top layers, but when i change the nozzle size to 0.6 the top layers change also to 3. Did you change anything? Also the print speed on your PEBA.m3f on Printables says 44mm/s and in your settings video you have it at 40mm/s. I know its not a big difference in speed but i am just making sure before i hit print. :D
Hey, I wonder if the settings defaulted when switched to 0.6? It should still be 5 top layer. And for speed, I did change it because 44 mm/s did work when I tried it so that is what I left on the profile, but it will probably depend on the printer. If it is a bed slinger I would slow it down even below 40
@@makeitlabchannel Yes I think 3 is the default for the 0.6 nozzle. You recommend still using the 5 top layers?
@@makeitlabchannel Just started the print. 🙈 wish me luck!
@@oclk8650 Hope it prints well!
@makeitlabchannel So far it is printing fine, but the bridging parts don't look so clean. Also a lot of stringing, maybe the filament is too wet.
what is the second best filament to print with behind peba? are these new filaments you used the best for a cheaper option or what would you recommend?
@@SS-cx3zh I would say that the second best would probably be the Ataraxia Art flex PLA. It is cheap compared to the other filaments, but the bounce is almost the same as some of the best (besides PEBA of course). I am going to try their bouncy version of the filament, so hopefully that will have good results
Did you try to change the design? What happens if you remove the artificial seems? What impact have a finer or rougher mesh structure have? Does a thicker or thinner wall is more bouncy?
When I was originally designing our model I tested a few things. Removing the seams added just a slight increase in bounce but less grip, and the big factor for bounce was having even thickness between lattice gaps and the lattice structure. I have not tested much with the finer/rougher mesh structure or thicker/thinner walls yet though. All worth testing at some point for sure
Using the Ataraxia flex filament with Bambu textured plate, it was impossible to get the ball to come off without warping it a bit. How do you remove them from the bed?
Also, are you using a flap disc with the angle grinder? What grit?
@@jasonn6354 Hey there, just sent you an email response. Hope it helps!
i noticed the extra drag too, quite funny how often i just completely airballed.
Haha, at least I have an excuse for missing all of my shots now
Do you sell any of the 3D printed ball online? If so do you have a link. I’m particularly interested on the PEBA
@@firekartaker Hey there, I am not selling any right now. I might look into it because there seems to be some interest but the main issue for these basketballs is that they would be fairly expensive, especially the PEBA.
I love this series :^), but how many balls could you make out of 1 Rolf the PEBA filament, and would you recommend the 1.75mm diameter or the 2.85, thanks.
Much appreciated! To make a full-sized basketball you would need 2 rolls (640 total grams with supports), but if you scale the model down you can print a smaller-sized basketball with 1 roll. I would recommend the 1.75mm - good luck!
I would say that you should do a heat test, like if you were to play with these outside in the hot sun for a while would they warp?
@@SS-cx3zh That would be worth testing for sure 😁
how do you get such nice prints at any point on the sphere
@@curtisnewton895 I think the 2 big things are a reliable printer and slow print speeds. Are you having trouble printing the basketballs?
would love to see one printed with an ams so it looks like a real one like orange and black stripes
Do you do anything after printing to help the strength on the peba balls? Do you anneal it?
@@CCBCodeMonkey Hey, no the only thing I do to the basketballs after printing is sand the supports down. I am actually surprised they are holding up this well. I think annealing will always help though
@@makeitlabchannel man mine hold up like yours. I just had another one break on the layer lines printed with 0.6... though that layer I had the printer paused for over an hour because of a clog and it broke exactly on that layer
@@CCBCodeMonkey oh dang, it is kind of crazy how one bad layer line can make it break. Hope the next one prints better!
Wait until you try the .8 and 1 mm nozzles. I use .8mm almost always unless i need fine details like text or logos
@@limbeboy7 Have you printed an airless basketball with a 0.8? Definitely sounds like it is worth a try
@@makeitlabchannel 0.8mm is double the diameter of 0.4mm and about the volume cubed. Also use arnachie mode in slicer settings (orca & bambu slicers) you'll see crazy flow characteristics
Edit: Volume of 0.4mm is about 33
The Volume of 0.8mm is 268
So you say the regular basketball is superior when you watched it in slow motion, but the peba airless had more bounce. How do you know? Because the real basketball started landing sooner and sooner, which meant it wasn't gaining as much height and thus landing sooner.
@@menchelke I should have mentioned in this video that it was based off a previous test/video that I did. The PEBA and regular basketball are very close when dropped around chest height, but when I tested the peba and regular ball above a 6 foot drop, the real basketball definitely bounced higher
can i get the settings for the 0.4 nozzle
@@Cranking.-r_n For which filament? Some of them have different settings. If you have a Bambu Lab printer I could send the 3mf with the settings
Why does the offical basketball model listed on DUD v2 PLA B filament page have a print time of 68 hours? What’s the difference with your model and theirs? Thanks!
There are several things that can vary the airless basketball print time by quite a bit - the model design itself, the size of the nozzle, the printing speed, number of walls vs. infill, etc. From what I can gather, the 68 hours looks like it is based on using a 0.6mm nozzle at a 0.18mm layer height with their model. It looks like they might have altered the PartyLime Gen 13 model or created their own to look very similar. I don't think there is a huge difference between their model and mine, except for the looks.
If the PEBA-S only comes in 500g spools, do you need to use 2 spools to print a single basketball?
Unfortunately yes - I hope they release a 750/850gram roll one day to save some money.
Hey man I just got a FlashForge Adventure 5M Pro and it won’t heat up do you know what wrong?
Hey, is the printer new? First thing I would check is the wiring - everything connected/plugged in where it should be? Do you receive any error messages?
@@makeitlabchannel sorry I fixed it already but thank you so much
@@makeitlabchannel it was the nozzle I was using
I don’t know if you would, but would you consider selling one of the basketballs? It’s a far fetched ask, but I just wanted to see. I just really don’t want to spend more money for a potential fail.
I’m in the exact same boat. I would love to buy one off you 😂 I have the time and patience to print one, but the whole 120 dollars of filament to make about 1 and a half balls makes it a little useless ya know? I wish they sold 750 gram rolls of peba.
@@ScaleToTheWire Same, I have an a1 and I have the money to buy or a and already have bought the wisdream, it’s just the risk
I suppose I could consider it but I would hate to sell someone a ball and then have it crack 😕
@@makeitlabchannel well… if your too worried about it, sell it to me for just enough to cover shipping. That way I can’t complain.🤣 if I paid to get it here then that’s what I get.
Also, how many of those are you printing off? You probably could just do either a give away raffle you something
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching 😁
peba basketball is like a floor hockey airless ball, idk if you tested PETG filament yet, that might be better than just PLA, and similar to PEBA, maybe. try kicking them, like a soccer ball.
@@gsestream might have to try it 😁
@@makeitlabchannel also TPU might be the best for flex/solid airless car wheel rim wrap tire. use two part rim, for easy tire mount.
Awesome, thanks for sharing👍
@@TheIcemanModdeler Hope it was helpful!
Airless balls have less performance because they have more wind resistance for 3 pointer shots. So... don't use them.
@@Misc_Identity Someone suggested wrapping an airless basketball with the basketball leather/rubber to maybe decrease the wind resistance. Worth a try but yes definitely can't match a regular ball yet
You haven't tried 3D printing until you try 0.8mm nozle.
From what I have tested, I would say that the Ataraxia Art Flex PLA would be second because it is definitely the cheapest option and bounces pretty much just as good as the others (besides PEBA) that I have tried. I just got the bouncy version of their PLA so I am hoping it will be even better