Kyle-- as a knifemaker when I sharpen one of my convex blades, I will follow a similar method as you describe. Murray Carter has a couple of videos that are great as well for your viewers, as does Virtuovice. One suggestion I can make regarding removing the scratches: You are virtually always going to have smudge marks left by the stone, regardless of the grit level. In order to remove the smudges, I recommend using some wet/dry automotive sandpaper after you're finished. Sand the blade lengthwise. In the event you are not careful during this process, you might have to go back and address the apex with a couple of strokes on the stone or strop to restore the edge, but that's not a big deal. The sandpaper (1500 grit or so) will bring back that factory look on the blade. Forrest
Not to sound critical because I really enjoy your videos. ...this one no exception. ...if you want to get all the scratches out and maintain or even improve the factory look. You need to work the thousand grit until all the 400 scratches are gone, and the 3k until the 1k is gone ect. Once you move past the 1k to 3k...any 400 scratches will be very difficult to remove. As long as the jump in grit isn't too severe, and in this case it is not at all, it won't take too long to replace all the previous stones scratch pattern. I know this isn't news to you but this point wasn't clear in the video and I thought some viewers might find this comment helpful. Thanks again for the video.
I did a materials class in engineering school where you had to mount a piece of alloy in bakelite and lap it until the grain structure can be seen under a microscope. We had 32 rotating lapping benches to accomplish this quickly.
Kyle, if you lived closer you would get all my sharpening business! I am okay at sharpening - still learning - but you are a true pro! Thank you for sharing your techniques.
Great job as usual. Convex grinds can be very intimidating but as you showed it can definitely be done on a whetstone. It takes me forever to do them because I'm always afraid I'm not following the contour properly so I keep wiping them off every few strokes to check. It's like everything tho I guess. If I done more of them it would come as naturally as flat grinds. Thanks for taking us along and cheers till the next one bud.
haha Yea, that's kind of how it goes with convex grinds! You don't get the positive feedback of 'feeling the surface lay flat' like with other grinds. Thanks for watching man! you been busy lately? Seem like I haven't seen you around!
@@kyle_noseworthy I've been super busy. Between work, firewood, and other chores to get ready for winter. I'll soon be done tho and get to spend some good quality time in the woods for my favorite season.
I must say that one thing I've learned watching your videos is how important stropping is, I can usually keep the edge on my EDC slipjoints in quite nice condition by regular stropping alone , I would just like to add that my favourite grind is a hollow grind and they strop quite nicely, what are your thoughts on hollow grinds if any? Also do you have a favourite grind?
Stropping can keep an edge working for quite some time, you're right! To observe the extreme case, a straight razor MUST be stropped before each shave, or it will be noticeably more dull. With proper stropping, a razor can be good for months before needing return to the stones.
Hey Kyle, speaking of straight razors I recently purchased one. I've been looking for a new way to hurt myself.... But the thing came new sharp as a marble. A proper start to finish demonstration on straight razors would be great ( hint hint ) Thanks Again for another great show... And I'm going to get a few heads together so you can pick out the one ('s) ya want...... I apologise for the delay man.
Awesome! I just might consider doing that. It would be a great video to get Ray in on, since he's much more knowledgeable about straight's than I am. New ones don't come shave-ready. They need to be honed, which is a service we offer in our little sharpening business. I can't wait to see if you come up with any heads! Thanks!
I'm not a knife expert and I ask this question with all due respect, please. I watch a lot of knife sharpening videos, and I do not understand the backwards draw. The angle, which is imperative, is definitely and positively different (less angled) on the more imprecise backdraw on every video I watch. In your video, observe at 4:35. So, my question: Why Backdraw at all? Wouldn't the edge be better served with the user simply and precisely push drawing and never backdrawing? Thank you.
Completely lost with what you mean with "shadow of your blade". Kind of felt lost after that and really couldn't even finish the video since that seemed like a really important point...and I have no idea ehat it means. Wish you would explain things out.
The edge of the blade casts a shadow on the stone.. once the edge touches the stone, it no longer casts a shadow, which means you're sharpening the edge for sure. Hope that makes sense
Gotta be honest Kyle, this seems like voo doo to me, kinda like shooting from the hip. To my mind, I'll stick to a pliable substrate or a flexible belt on the convex blades.No question that you have mad skills using flat stone on convex and I'd definitely trust you doing it to my edges. Problem is I don't trust that I'll get the equivalent results of a conforming-type method. As always, thanks for sharing!
Hey Kyle, big fan. Was hoping to pick your brain a bit, I feel I am getting pretty good at whet stone sharpening and was thinking of doing a bit on the side as a way to buy more knives. I live up in Goose Bay Labrador. Was thinking of calling it "Big Land sharpening lol" Idk How much do you charge people for a sharpen?
I am new to knives and just bought my first bush craft knives and I doubt that I would have the skill to do a good job of it this way though I am experienced at filing and therefore I believe that I would have more success if I were to secure the knife on its side somehow and have a wet stone fitted into a handle so that I could use it like file. Maybe I could also colour it with a texter to give me a guide as where I'm rubbing.
For sure, I guess the argument is that if you want it to look perfect, then it’s probably a collector knife that you wouldn’t be using therefore would have no need to sharpen lol.
Have not watched yet, In advance I have to say : You cant convex on a stone ( not accurite anyway) Not perfect like a belt I mean. Cant wait to watch this
You're like the Bob Ross of knife sharpening, easy to watch, informative and relaxing. You earned a subscriber. Keep it up!
Haha I love Bob Ross! Thanks!
Kyle-- as a knifemaker when I sharpen one of my convex blades, I will follow a similar method as you describe. Murray Carter has a couple of videos that are great as well for your viewers, as does Virtuovice. One suggestion I can make regarding removing the scratches: You are virtually always going to have smudge marks left by the stone, regardless of the grit level. In order to remove the smudges, I recommend using some wet/dry automotive sandpaper after you're finished. Sand the blade lengthwise. In the event you are not careful during this process, you might have to go back and address the apex with a couple of strokes on the stone or strop to restore the edge, but that's not a big deal. The sandpaper (1500 grit or so) will bring back that factory look on the blade. Forrest
Thanks for sharing your experience! That info is very appreciated! Cheers!
Great tip on the 1500. I will put painters tape on any areas already in great shape too
beauty of a knife and a stellar video. Well done man.
Not to sound critical because I really enjoy your videos. ...this one no exception. ...if you want to get all the scratches out and maintain or even improve the factory look. You need to work the thousand grit until all the 400 scratches are gone, and the 3k until the 1k is gone ect. Once you move past the 1k to 3k...any 400 scratches will be very difficult to remove. As long as the jump in grit isn't too severe, and in this case it is not at all, it won't take too long to replace all the previous stones scratch pattern. I know this isn't news to you but this point wasn't clear in the video and I thought some viewers might find this comment helpful. Thanks again for the video.
I am not seeing the criticism in this comment? I have made this point dozens of times in my videos.
I did a materials class in engineering school where you had to mount a piece of alloy in bakelite and lap it until the grain structure can be seen under a microscope. We had 32 rotating lapping benches to accomplish this quickly.
Kyle, if you lived closer you would get all my sharpening business! I am okay at sharpening - still learning - but you are a true pro! Thank you for sharing your techniques.
Thanks so much Tom! I appreciate that. The scales were attached to your knife last night my friend!
Exciting Stuff!!! Thank You Kyle.
You are an artist. I cannot imagine what a mess I might have made out of that. Great video. Thank you.
Thanks Thomas! I bet you'd get it right after a short amount of time
This was killer! Thanks Kyle!
Great job as usual. Convex grinds can be very intimidating but as you showed it can definitely be done on a whetstone. It takes me forever to do them because I'm always afraid I'm not following the contour properly so I keep wiping them off every few strokes to check. It's like everything tho I guess. If I done more of them it would come as naturally as flat grinds. Thanks for taking us along and cheers till the next one bud.
haha Yea, that's kind of how it goes with convex grinds! You don't get the positive feedback of 'feeling the surface lay flat' like with other grinds. Thanks for watching man! you been busy lately? Seem like I haven't seen you around!
@@kyle_noseworthy I've been super busy. Between work, firewood, and other chores to get ready for winter. I'll soon be done tho and get to spend some good quality time in the woods for my favorite season.
Beautiful knife and a fine sharpening job.
Thanks bud!
Love your sharpening videos, really appreciate you passing on your knowledge. Thank you
👍s up, keep them coming please...
How would you return the mirror polish to the blade?
Out of curiosity can a blade with a convex edge cut through thick clothing
Excellent tutorial Kyle!
What is the best method to touch up a convex blade in the field (Like a moose hunting knife)?
I always get a somewhat convex edge all the time
I must say that one thing I've learned watching your videos is how important stropping is, I can usually keep the edge on my EDC slipjoints in quite nice condition by regular stropping alone , I would just like to add that my favourite grind is a hollow grind and they strop quite nicely, what are your thoughts on hollow grinds if any? Also do you have a favourite grind?
Stropping can keep an edge working for quite some time, you're right! To observe the extreme case, a straight razor MUST be stropped before each shave, or it will be noticeably more dull. With proper stropping, a razor can be good for months before needing return to the stones.
Hey Kyle, speaking of straight razors I recently purchased one. I've been looking for a new way to hurt myself.... But the thing came new sharp as a marble. A proper start to finish demonstration on straight razors would be great ( hint hint ) Thanks Again for another great show... And I'm going to get a few heads together so you can pick out the one ('s) ya want...... I apologise for the delay man.
I totally agree that it would be a great idea for a video. Eh, Kyle? ;)
Awesome! I just might consider doing that. It would be a great video to get Ray in on, since he's much more knowledgeable about straight's than I am. New ones don't come shave-ready. They need to be honed, which is a service we offer in our little sharpening business. I can't wait to see if you come up with any heads! Thanks!
When you bring your hand forward and backward, are you applying the same amount of pressure or are you letting up the pressure on the backstroke?
close to the same, but lighter on the backstroke, if any difference at all.
I'm not a knife expert and I ask this question with all due respect, please. I watch a lot of knife sharpening videos, and I do not understand the backwards draw. The angle, which is imperative, is definitely and positively different (less angled) on the more imprecise backdraw on every video I watch. In your video, observe at 4:35. So, my question: Why Backdraw at all? Wouldn't the edge be better served with the user simply and precisely push drawing and never backdrawing? Thank you.
I'm new also. But I think that's how the convex is formed, otherwise it would be a straight edge.?
What grit Nagura stone would you recommend using with these and other combo stones
How do you like that Sharp Pebble 400/1000 stone?
I have a convex but right on the end it's scandy I think. My knife is the helle utvaer
Your knife is a scandi grind not convex
Completely lost with what you mean with "shadow of your blade". Kind of felt lost after that and really couldn't even finish the video since that seemed like a really important point...and I have no idea ehat it means. Wish you would explain things out.
The edge of the blade casts a shadow on the stone.. once the edge touches the stone, it no longer casts a shadow, which means you're sharpening the edge for sure. Hope that makes sense
Gotta be honest Kyle, this seems like voo doo to me, kinda like shooting from the hip. To my mind, I'll stick to a pliable substrate or a flexible belt on the convex blades.No question that you have mad skills using flat stone on convex and I'd definitely trust you doing it to my edges. Problem is I don't trust that I'll get the equivalent results of a conforming-type method. As always, thanks for sharing!
Hey Kyle, big fan. Was hoping to pick your brain a bit, I feel I am getting pretty good at whet stone sharpening and was thinking of doing a bit on the side as a way to buy more knives. I live up in Goose Bay Labrador. Was thinking of calling it "Big Land sharpening lol" Idk
How much do you charge people for a sharpen?
Hey Joseph, shoot me an email! I'd be happy to chat. weiderfan.business@gmail.com
I am new to knives and just bought my first bush craft knives and I doubt that I would have the skill to do a good job of it this way though I am experienced at filing and therefore I believe that I would have more success if I were to secure the knife on its side somehow and have a wet stone fitted into a handle so that I could use it like file. Maybe I could also colour it with a texter to give me a guide as where I'm rubbing.
Ohhhhh f*ck bud soon as I heard that voice I subbed. Good video skip.
Cole harbour, Nova Scotia.
Hi Kyle
I have been watching lots of your videos.
How do you store your stones when your done and cleaned the stones?
I clean them with a Nagura stone, and then I set them in a dry large Tupperware container :-)
@@kyle_noseworthy
TY for taking your time mate.
Awesome!
Great video, but there’s no way I’m doing that to my beautiful convex grinds - terrified,
دمرت السكين يا فتى .... لا داعي لإستخدام حجر ٤٠٠
Well well
:-)
looks bad but hey its sharp looks like you ruined a beautiful knife but no doubt its sharpened
For sure, I guess the argument is that if you want it to look perfect, then it’s probably a collector knife that you wouldn’t be using therefore would have no need to sharpen lol.
Have not watched yet, In advance I have to say : You cant convex on a stone ( not accurite anyway) Not perfect like a belt I mean.
Cant wait to watch this
If you put a convex cutting edge on a cold steel knife. You void the warranty!
this.....is a joke....right?