Very nice video; clear and professional. The instructions are very clear. I do wonder if you should mention about touching the meter leads with your hands. As long as you only touch one lead with your hand, your reading is OK; if you touch both leads then you can be reading the resistance of your body. Keep up the good work. Thank you!
My commutator bars are ONLY connected to the shaft and a plastic fan. This unit then fits into a non-removable casing containing the armature windings/lamination stack. This motor is part of a whole house furnace humidifier that has a motherboard connecting the water solenoid, humidistat via the transformer (24V) and then the house current (120 VAC) to tell the fan to turn on all using the class 2 Transformer Pri: 120V 60hz / SEC: 24V 10 VA. Using your three test method, there is a ohms detection on the shaft and the commutator...but its not the same set up as yours; other two test pass per your recommendations. NOTE: The fan "hums" when plugged directly into the house outlet but does not when reassembled. So, another question: Is the STETRON SR11CS10DC24, on the motherboard directly next to the 120 VAC fan connection also key? Is it a Relay or Start Capacitor (I am only learning electronics via UA-cam the past week so pardon the dumb/inaccurate wording. Not sure how to test this correctly. With that said, I am looking for a unit that resembles mine as described above
I enjoyed the video. If I am not exactly 180° let's say I am off by a bar or two should I get a reading? And on my volt meander the numbers keep graduating the longer that I have a connection is that normal thanks. I am trying to fix my grinder and I have not found the answer on UA-cam so far so the next step is to disassemble another tool and see if I have a different result. Thanks
Thank you for the video. However this process can be simplified. All poles are connected to each other. look at a schematic of an starter armature. you only have to check for continuity between one pole and a couple of the others, 4-5 adjacent and your done (since they are all connected. the 180 degree test can be omitted (already confirmed since, yes, they are all connected. You should not have continuity between the axle/armature and one pole( yes one, again, because they are all connected). the ohm reading is likely test wire or instrument. Starter wire are rather large and has 0 ohm or close to. thanks again!
We have a couple dc motor at my work, if you check between A1 an A2 which is armature 1 and armature 2 you should have some resistance correct? I have some resistance readings between my field wires but showing open no resistance between my aramture wires. Does that mean the motor is bad?
You've overlooked one common mode of armature failure, and that's wear of, or loss of undercutting between commutator segments. Either situation can be fixed by skimming the commutator in a lathe and then re-undercutting the segment insulators using a fine-tooth saw blade of correct thickness.
Hello sir is that golf2 armature? I have similar magnet type can you tell my what winding type that is? I noticed in the lamination stot is located around 3-4 coils per slot so Im not shure what winding type it is? The commitator bars seam to have 3 wires atached to ich segment. Its so tight I dont see much inside the armature.I originali wanted to use that armature and trying to build small high amp generator .So hoppe you know more .
quick question, if you test continuity from ground to commutator but there is nothing, and then from ground to armature teeth, and there IS continuity, is that the same thing?
I checked my commutator it showed 0 ohms resistance. Commutator to iron laminations was no reading , and commutator to main shaft was no reading. Which is supposed to be good by auto electric manuals. Replaced brushes using power tool type, and filed to fit as too big . But not working any suggestions? As to what I have done wrong ? Any reply appreciated thanks from Australia 😊
I checked my armature - everything is ok Except 1 bar - has a reading of 6.2 ohm against the one next to it (all other reading is about 0.4 ohms) - but when I measure this bar against the opposite bar - the reading is consistent with all other readings - Do you know what this indicates? I check the wirings visibly - they seem to be ok -
Hi. I performed the 3 tests. I get open circuit for all bars to ground. For the bar to bar and 180 tests I get 0 ohms. For all. Should there be some resistance? Thanks.
question: if I apply voltage directly to conmutator the armature rotates fine. If I reassemble with brushes making contact with conmutator, nothing happens. What could be the cause?
4DIYers Thanks for the fast answer, thats the problem the brushes are as new as the rest of the armature about 1 month old and looks pretty nice and also tried it with new brushes after cleaning the commutator . Surface of the Commutator doesnt look wasted either. Could it be possible that the reason of the problem is the Stator/Pole Shoe/ or Field Winding and not the Armature at all?
Hi my starter has passed all this tests on the armature and field (which is new) but still shorts and doesn't turn. Could it be there is a "magnetic short" say if the laminated plates in the armature are touching each other?
One of the best quick descriptions of an armature, how it works and how to test.
Thank you!
Thanks.
You are more than a teacher.
So concise not a wasted word and a written description.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate the kind words :)
Good description of an armature! Love the 3 easy steps checking resistance.
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback!
Very nice video; clear and professional. The instructions are very clear. I do wonder if you should mention about touching the meter leads with your hands. As long as you only touch one lead with your hand, your reading is OK; if you touch both leads then you can be reading the resistance of your body. Keep up the good work. Thank you!
Nice clear step by step instructions to follow. 👍. Stay safe, Joe Z
My commutator bars are ONLY connected to the shaft and a plastic fan. This unit then fits into a non-removable casing containing the armature windings/lamination stack. This motor is part of a whole house furnace humidifier that has a motherboard connecting the water solenoid, humidistat via the transformer (24V) and then the house current (120 VAC) to tell the fan to turn on all using the class 2 Transformer Pri: 120V 60hz / SEC: 24V 10 VA. Using your three test method, there is a ohms detection on the shaft and the commutator...but its not the same set up as yours; other two test pass per your recommendations. NOTE: The fan "hums" when plugged directly into the house outlet but does not when reassembled. So, another question: Is the STETRON SR11CS10DC24, on the motherboard directly next to the 120 VAC fan connection also key? Is it a Relay or Start Capacitor (I am only learning electronics via UA-cam the past week so pardon the dumb/inaccurate wording. Not sure how to test this correctly. With that said, I am looking for a unit that resembles mine as described above
Good video..Is there a method to check the readings of the windings of the motor as well please?
Great information, thank you
You're very welcome!
To the point, love it😊
Thank you!
I enjoyed the video. If I am not exactly 180° let's say I am off by a bar or two should I get a reading? And on my volt meander the numbers keep graduating the longer that I have a connection is that normal thanks. I am trying to fix my grinder and I have not found the answer on UA-cam so far so the next step is to disassemble another tool and see if I have a different result. Thanks
Cheers bro, extremely helpful vid - many thanks - my starter armature is all good so thats a happy result.
Awesome to hear and glad to help out :)
Thank you for the video. However this process can be simplified. All poles are connected to each other. look at a schematic of an starter armature. you only have to check for continuity between one pole and a couple of the others, 4-5 adjacent and your done (since they are all connected. the 180 degree test can be omitted (already confirmed since, yes, they are all connected. You should not have continuity between the axle/armature and one pole( yes one, again, because they are all connected). the ohm reading is likely test wire or instrument. Starter wire are rather large and has 0 ohm or close to. thanks again!
thanks a ton for the explanation . keep up the good work
Thank you and don't forget to subscribe :)
We have a couple dc motor at my work, if you check between A1 an A2 which is armature 1 and armature 2 you should have some resistance correct? I have some resistance readings between my field wires but showing open no resistance between my aramture wires. Does that mean the motor is bad?
Should be concerned if a 12v wiper motor casing gets quite warm after bench testing ?
very helpful, thanks
You're welcome!
You've overlooked one common mode of armature failure, and that's wear of, or loss of undercutting between commutator segments. Either situation can be fixed by skimming the commutator in a lathe and then re-undercutting the segment insulators using a fine-tooth saw blade of correct thickness.
It wasn't overlooked, it was covered in another video. This video was specifically made for testing with a multimeter.
Hello sir is that golf2 armature? I have similar magnet type can you tell my what winding type that is? I noticed in the lamination stot is located around 3-4 coils per slot so Im not shure what winding type it is? The commitator bars seam to have 3 wires atached to ich segment. Its so tight I dont see much inside the armature.I originali wanted to use that armature and trying to build small high amp generator .So hoppe you know more .
quick question, if you test continuity from ground to commutator but there is nothing, and then from ground to armature teeth, and there IS continuity, is that the same thing?
I checked my commutator it showed 0 ohms resistance. Commutator to iron laminations was no reading , and commutator to main shaft was no reading. Which is supposed to be good by auto electric manuals. Replaced brushes using power tool type, and filed to fit as too big . But not working any suggestions? As to what I have done wrong ? Any reply appreciated thanks from Australia 😊
I checked my armature - everything is ok Except 1 bar - has a reading of 6.2 ohm against the one next to it (all other reading is about 0.4 ohms) - but when I measure this bar against the opposite bar - the reading is consistent with all other readings - Do you know what this indicates? I check the wirings visibly - they seem to be ok -
It’s no good
Hi. I performed the 3 tests. I get open circuit for all bars to ground. For the bar to bar and 180 tests I get 0 ohms. For all. Should there be some resistance? Thanks.
great video! thanks alot.
Thank you and glad to help out :)
Thanks for stupid proof & simple explanation. Good job.
Always happy to help and thank you for the feedback :)
Good explain
Thank you :)
Thx!
Happy to help :)
question: if I apply voltage directly to conmutator the armature rotates fine. If I reassemble with brushes making contact with conmutator, nothing happens. What could be the cause?
should there be any reading or between shaft and lamination stack tooth?
thank you so much god bless u.
Glad to help out :)
What if the windings are shorted together?
Nice
i got A MINNKOTA e drive and the problem is the resistance is high all around what does that mean
What should I do if the armature passes all the test, my starter is getting 12v, but it still doesn't do anything?
Refer to this video on how to troubleshoot a starter ua-cam.com/video/E1nlbeXtVmQ/v-deo.html
How can i test a dewalt chap saw armature
What if the Armature passed every test what could still be the problem? heavy arcing
There is an issue between the brushes and commutator. The commutator may need resurfacing or you may just need to replace the brushes.
4DIYers Thanks for the fast answer, thats the problem the brushes are as new as the rest of the armature about 1 month old and looks pretty nice and also tried it with new brushes after cleaning the commutator .
Surface of the Commutator doesnt look wasted either.
Could it be possible that the reason of the problem is the Stator/Pole Shoe/ or Field Winding and not the Armature at all?
Hi my starter has passed all this tests on the armature and field (which is new) but still shorts and doesn't turn. Could it be there is a "magnetic short" say if the laminated plates in the armature are touching each other?
Sounds like Kevin Costner!
drill machine armature short
Hindi me bat krbe