Very useful video. I have a new K3 arriving tomorrow. If I'd known there was so much plastic in high pressure areas I might well have decided on another make. Now I feel ready to tackle any pressure issues if and when they arise. Thanks from a Welsh man living in the Republic of Ireland.
You are nothing short of a superstar in my opinion. I saved £250 by buying spare parts costing me £40 & followed your advice on this brill video & now I have a healthy none pulsating karcher 3.80md machine just like it was 8 years ago when I purchased it.😊 thank you.
Even made 4 years ago, this tutorial was the best that I'd found on the net. Full of details and recommendations. Thank you so much for your dedication and patience. Only for reference, I'm from Brazil and live in the biggest city in Latin America.
Excellent tutorial. You would not believe how many Web sites and videos I have looked at trying to find how much oil to put in. Yours is the only one I've seen that covers everything from start to finish. Well done.
My Karcher is a K5 Preimum ecologic 1,181-261.0 It does not leak externally and reuns the mains water through it when the power is off. It will only work on the low pessure soap setting on the wand. I have stripped it down and replenished the oil but it still refuses to run at high pressure. It has a valve that is operated by the control knob with an Off/ On /Eco function. This only gets depressed for he Eco function and then not depressed to its full travel. It has mainly metal parts not plastic and has been drained down and kept in the garage during the cold weather. It is behaving as if the high pressure side is restricted so I am going to strip it down again and check for any muck or obstructions on that side. It also has a soap dispensor knob that regulates the soap that is dispensed. Great Video and very informative.
make sure to check all the orifices for trapped dirt. could you have a possible wand restriction? did you disconnect the outlet and try the unit for volume increase when turned on?
I've now watched a couple of tutorials on repairing old karchers like mine (this is the best by the way), and they are extremely useful in providing sufficient evidence that tinkering with old karchers is an enormous pain in the arse (especially those 4 bolts!).
Thank you very much. This fixed my K3. It had been in storage for approx 3 years and was surging. The fix was to strip down, clean and fill with 15w-40. It now works perfectly.
One of the best tutorial videos i have found, the spares are plentiful for the Karchers its a pity that they are so expensive even though most parts are made of plastic, i have a power craft washer made by Karcher its 18 years old, not used a lot, had to replace head, seals and micro switch, not bad really.
This is the best, well scripted video I've seen on this. Very well done. Thank you. I think for me, however, that I will purchase a new pressure washer. Mine is like 8 years old, if not older. I don't want to throw $100 towards an old pressure washer when a new one is $200. At this point, if one thing is broke it won't be long till something else is broke. I end up spending a dollar to save a nickel. Plastic and rubber parts don't last forever. After seeing how this is made I'm surprised that it's lasted this long......
Thanks for the kind words! I do concur that investing more money into an already well worn machine is an exercise in futility. My reservation in buying a brand new unit is only that perhaps the new ones are even of a poorer construction, being that we have invariably become a throw-away society, stemming from the era of the Bic lighter and Schick disposable razor. Case in point; I have recently serviced and resurrected several old brass valves (made in Canada) with new packings and seals (still available) as opposed to buying the "made in China" replacements which are not only cheaply manufactured, but non-user serviceable. Our reliance on off shore, inexpensive, throw-away items will, I believe, put us behind the eight ball in the near future. Alas, those who can fend for themselves with regard to self-reliance, or an inclination to mechanical or challenging machinations are a dying breed indeed! Have a great day. Tammo
Very clear video, methodical work and done thoroughly, not skating over the surface just to get it going. With this and other machines which have numerous safety and functional cut-outs, it's quite a good idea to mention these towards the end of the reassembly process so that one can bench test the machine before the reassembly is complete (before the body panels and trims are put on) by overriding the cut-outs. This may have to be done quickly as the machine will be running dry and/or with limited cooling. What has happened to me a few times is that I have reassembled the complete machine only to realise that there is another issue. This needs a whole new dismantling process! There are lots of models of Karcher pressure washers and dozens of different body combinations. Dismantling the body parts needs to be done using intuition and careful examination but note that there are a lot of little plastic spring tabs on some of the bigger machines (eg 10 spring tabs on just one fascia panel on one of the K5s) and these have to be prised apart carefully under warm conditions or they will break off (cold conditions cause the plastic to be brittle).
Thanks for the observations and input! I agree about the pre-reassembly evaluation although I didn't include this for the sake of simplicity re: necessity to fabricate bypass rig/harness and the potential hazards associated with ops out of a protective housing. I believe that, like you mentioned, running dry will be detrimental if the end user if not aware of the excess heat created in a short period of time. Thanks again!
This is by far the best tutorial on this pump that I've been able to come across. Thanks for your hard work documenting your experience working on that pump.
Thank you for your video. It was extremly instructive and thanks to you I brought my Karcher back from the dead. By doing such an awesome tutorial you keep the original spirit of internet alive: sharing freely informations and knowledge worldwide. I would have never been able to fix my machine without you. Greetings from France.
Great video, got me up and running. I just replaced every O ring I could find, which did the trick without buying new parts. Thanks for your expert assistance in getting it all apart and back together again!
Where did you find all the correct o rings? Is there a kit or two you found somewhere online? I ask because mine is apart and I want to replace all the o rings also. Thanks.
Really clear instructions., Karcher first recommended 15/40 oil but then said I needed a viscous oil. My motor lies horizontally so I was concerned that oil might leak, but I see yours is upside down so I am going with the 15/40 oil
Great video…. Just repaired my K4 by replacing the high pressure housing by following your diagnosis and detailed instructions. It was destined for the skip, but it’s back to full pressure again 👍
This is an amazingly helpful video... I am just stuck on whether to spend the money to fix it myself, by a new one, or take it to a Karcher repair shop and have them do it. I don't have all the parts, oils and lubes. But after watching your video, I feel like if I attempted it, I could do it.
Thank you for the nice comment! I went through a similar "tug-of-war" when trying to decide if I would navigate the "Karcher"waters, but am quite happy that I did! The feedback and comments about this tutorial video definitely made it worthwhile, and beyond my wildest expectations. You can do whatever you put your mind to!!!!! Take care, Tammo
Es el primer video que encuentro de este modelo que es el que yo tengo, la mía perdió presión y solo dispara agua jabonosa. Ahora se que está muerta y no hay remedio facil. Debo llevarla al taller de servicio. Gracias.
Thanks for the video. It confirms the operation of the pump - I'd surmised how it worked after partial disassembly of my Karcher K2.080 today. It stopped giving high pressure water yesterday and had black oil dribbling out of the bottom of the casing. BTW, another source of pulsing on and off is a split O-ring on the quick connect mains water hose fitting (if used). I've had that happen a few times over the years. I'm reluctant to buy another budget Karcher - this one is my third. Oh, the generic name for a HP cleaner in Australia used to be Gerni after the Danish brand. I had a Gerni but it failed with earth leakage in the motor which would trip off the power.
Thank you for the feedback, and your own personal experiences with the Karcher. Your comment about purchasing another k2 begs the question as to whether the more expensive Karchers are any better dollar for dollar. My K3 (the actual one in this video) is going strong 8 years later and I used it for a continuous 4 hours yesterday and 2 today with no signs of slowing down. Perhaps the replacement parts (that I used)are of a better quality, or built to a higher standard. Maybe an idea would be getting an older, second hand unit for cheap, and then renuilding it with new parts...?
I finally got around to finishing the tear down of the Karcher. I’d done a partial strip but not the pump. When I opened it up, I found the nylon planetary gear had broken up. I still haven’t worked out why the drive assembly had leaked all the oil out. I wonder if the planetary gear is available. If needs be I’ll hunt down a cheap non-worker for parts. I wish I’d kept the last one.
It's always nice to have a spare parts machine kicking about for troubleshooting, and for those parts only available as sub-assemblies at ridiculous costs. Thanks for the heads-up on the planetary set!
Great video mate I just wish you had gone one level deeper into the gear box.When my K2 was turned on it would instantly start like the wand trigger had been puled and the only way to stop the motor was to turn it off at the switch. I pulled my K2 apart following your instructions and everything was fine so I dug a little deeper and found the nylon gears attached to the drive shaft had been shredded. My k2 is only a couple of months old as well. It is a warranty claim but I cant fine the Proof of Purchase. so its fix or buy a new one. The cost to replace the Nylon gears plus shipping to Thailand is more that the cost of a new K2 sadly. Anyway thanks for the great insights it was a big help .
Muy buen video y aunque no esta en español pues le entendí todo lo que explico muchas gracias y que Dios lo siga Bendiciendo y que siga subiendo más videos de cómo arreglar las karcher y muchas gracias
Thank you, thank you soo much. u save my life. I dismounted the high pressure head and the springs I put them upside down. so could no water pressure. Thanks to your video I was able to see where I went wrong.
I have a leaking K3 000. I opened up the power washer and found that the housing at 6:48 has a hairy crack. I tried to repair it by using different kind of glues, including hot glue. Nothing worked and it is still leaking like crazy when I re-assembled everything and turned it on with water supply. I have done some researches but it looked like that the only solution to to buy the plastic housing. It costs CAD80 to 90 including shipping to buy the part and to wait a month or so to get it. And it is not guaranteed that this is the only problem. I like DIY stuffs. Finally, I tried plastic welding method. I have a basic soldering iron and I set it to the highest temperature and melted the platic material along the crack. Then I melted a zip tie to add thickness to the cracked surface. According to some youtube tutorial, I covered a tiny bit of steel wool (kitchen stuff after washing and drying) on top of the melted zip tie material. Applied soldering iron again to the steel wool to integrate it to the surface of the housing. Then, there is another step after the above procedure. I mixed baking soda and super glue on top of the melted plastic. I added just enough baking soda on top and applied bit by bit super glue to the Baking soda. Thin layers will do. After a few minutes, a very hard layer was covering the wounded housing. When I reassembled the washer, I found the flimsy soft plastic switch control was broken. I used the same baking soda and super glue method to fix it. It was a success. Pay attention and don't add excessive glue. Otherwise, you won't be able to turn it on and off. Anymore leaking ? Not anymore. The pressure is back to life. Happy spraying everybody. I believe that cracked plastic is reparable and hopefully people will benefit from my experience.
Thank you for an excellent video. Explanation is clear. I have a Karcher K5. It does nothing when I turn it on, doesn't make a sound. I have verified power to the unit and run water through the pump for 30 minutes (to get rid of any air in the system). It worked perfectly when I put it away in my heated workshop for the winter. Any Ideas on what the problem is?
I have to commend you on your instructional video. I did not detect even once where you used the hackneyed phrase "Now we're going to >go ahead< and remove the four Allen screws."
Thanks for the detailed and easy to get TUT, It'll really help me a lot, hope that i'll be able to repair the pressure washer i borrowed. Anyway, im from Philippines, thanks again and morr power
Hello. Good breakdown. Had to look at a good diagram with all the parts. I opened everything again while watching your video, and this time washer pieces fell out. It turned out to be an O-ringing on the high pressure connector. It had low pressure work a while, then surged the next day, with no real pressure. Wish I noticed the pieces before taking all of the guts apart. Definitely check the O-RIngs as pieces are taken apart. Here it is, a cheap fix. Will see in a few days when I get it in the mail. Couldn't find local. Karcher O-Ring D. 10 X 2 Nbr 70 - 6.362-151.0
Thanks for the information. Let us know your repair results with an update post; certainly the specs will come in handy for someone especially with a diagram blowup.
Thought for sure that O-Ring was the only problem. Now something is leaking for sure. Will open back up again to see. Wish the wells for the torx screws were not so deep. Might need some help. I've fixed another with similar internals a bunch years ago. Will see
@@inspireality I ordered a long Torx that just fits. Thinking, I didn't open the plastic pump housing triangular piece as it was stuck together. Will look again tomorrow. This is my 2nd Karcher and trying not to give up on this one. If oil is used, wouldn't it have to be filled up all the way somehow since the bearing ends up being at the top when standing upright? I just cleaned out the watery gunk, and used fresh grease on the bearing race and plate.
Initial overhaul I used white lithium grease with no issues. Karcher recommends oil, but either will work as the bearing and swash plate are lubricated by the 'spash lubrication" method.
good video - great job - but what is missing between taking it apart and reassembly is - how did you test the part you took out - and what was done with the leaking of said part?can one put a water hose to it? put some caps on the outlet and see where it leaks from? because you mentioned that you replaced one part. but weren't really sure if or not it would fix the problem - which ultimately it did not fix your initial problem . . . . otherwise very good . . .
J. Peters thanks for the comment! It was not possible to dynamically test the parts beyond the in situ stage. Static testing would have required a pressure far beyond that available from city water px of 60 psi. The unit did not have internal leakage present at that pressure.
Thanks for this video pal. I've replaced the head and control bit but mine is still pulsating? I'm stumped. No leaking water. EDIT: Anyone reading this, my pressure relief valve (small red tube in the inlet side of manifold) had grit sticking it open, took it apart, cleaned and greased and all working fine again.
@@dannyboy8067 have a look at the video around 12:50. It sounds like your manifold has an internal crack between the high and low pressure galleries...
@@inspireality Thanks but I've replaced the head, the manifold and the piston oil seals and it's still pulsing. I'm totally baffled. Oh and I thought it had pressure when in use but it's not enough to use my snow foam gun, it just dribbles out the end of that.
Excellent tutorial. I find that all the parts are so expensive for these pressure washers. It’s cheaper to buy a used working pressure washer for $30-50 instead of taking the time to fix them.
Shafi Mohammad you are right. The parts should be much less money so one can afford to repair as opposed to throwing away. We have become such a wasteful society..... Thanks for your comment Shafi!
Great video! Thanks to this video I currently have mine apart and about to order the part. I've had my 3.960 for about a year and all of a sudden the surging issue started. By the way, you mentioned using 10W-40 and towards the end mention 15w-40. I'm assuming the latter is preferred? Also, what did you use to clean the gunk off the springs?
Clean the springs and pumping cavity with isopropyl alcohol or a solvent cleaner but avoid contact with the rubber or synthetic parts like seals or o rings
@@inspireality Everything is buttoned up and works like a charm! It's been so long since i used it I was expecting the motor to shut off lol. Thanks again for this awesome video!
I have the same model as per video which is excellent by the way. Today I attached the water hose to the washer. Reset the the power supply. The light came on. I mistakenly turned the washer on before realizing the water source was off. The pump ran for all of 2 seconds before shutting down. Now the washer won't turn on. The power supply tests ok still. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thank you. I have hard water. I cleared out the wand tip & the entry filter, but my Karcher unit still has an even low pressure (no leaking or pulsating). Where next can I check for lime build up ?
i believe that your valves in the head assembly are probably calcified or worn. you will need to disassemble, and then inspect the plastic valves. if you refer to the video, you will see what I am referring to.
@@inspireality Thank you. Not a quick fix by any means. Mechanical things used to last longer when they were made from metal, not plastic. My Kenmore washing machine from 1980 still works fine.
Great video, you explain things so well it made me want to fix my own pump which is a Simoniz (not a Karcher) but I suspect it looks the same. Question: Did the pump run well after the overhaul? Thank you for the great tutorial!
Hi, is yours a simoniz 201, which is just a rebranded Karcher? If yes, check the relief valve that relieves overpressure from the high side to the water inlet. It's a yellow valve. You can see it from the clear PET inlet elbow. Mine came dislodged because the retainer plastic inside the clear elbow warped and let the valve pop off. I'm surprised there's practically no information about this valve on the internet. It seems the problem might only happen on models with the weaker clear PET inlet elbows and not on models with the black PA66 inlet.
Great video. Very well demonstrated and explained. Good videography also. Could you PLEASE tell me why the pressure hose keeps popping off the threaded connector at the base of that model unit. I have the same model and it works fine to create pressure without leaks, but just started popping the hose off as soon as I let go of the trigger. I did repair/replace the on/off switch and the inlet 90 connector a couple years ago and it has worked flawlessly until yesterday. Hope you can help.
inspireality It is all the way in and bottoms out. The threads are not binding but strong and threaded as far in as possible! Could it be the unloader? For the one you did here and my K3.68M, I believe it is in the wand handle. I took it apart and even though the O rings are undamaged, they seem stiff and hard. But I can’t find just the o rings online anywhere. Might you know where I could get them? The assorted set I have from Harbor Freight aren’t thick enough. Is the unloader in the handle as I suspect and if so might that be the problem with it kicking pressure back through the pressure hose popping the hose off? Thank you very much for your expert help!!
Hi. Sorry for the late reply. The unloader is not in the handle; It is in the unit itself. If the hose is blowing off (meaning excessive pressure), then there is an adjustment that can be made on the unloading spring, assuming that you have a continuous run machine. This spring should not need to ever be adjusted however, but perhaps it was in error? The threads are only brass on the pump connection (to HP hose) so you need to determine if the fittings are worn/damaged and take action accordingly.
inspireality The threads on both the HP hose male connector (at base of unit) and female connector (end of HP hose) are plastic(I wish they were brass). The threads look good, no scaring and don’t look worn. The male connector is cheap enough to replace but the HP hose is not. The back pressure when releasing the trigger on the wand must now have become excessive, causing the hose to pop off even when threaded. BTW, my Model is not a constant run. The pump and motor stop when the trigger on the wand is released. I looked at the parts breakdown diagrams and can’t find anything referring to the unloader valve (maybe I missed it. Could you please tell me where that adjustment is for the spring you mentioned? Thank you very much for your help!
The non-continuous run models do not have an unloading spring per day. The spring is part of the pressure switch mechanism. When the handle is squeezed, pressure on the end of the sliding white piston is reduced allowing
Great video! My 10 year old Karcher K3.81M worked for a few minutes this morning, then stopped. I could not start. I cleaned the feed filter. It worked for a few minutes, then stopped. I had to turn the power to the washer off, and waited for ~15 min. Then I could start, then it worked for a few minutes and stopped again. Could you please advise how to fix? Thanks.
My Karcher electric power washer has no force behind the water when you squeeze the lever on the wand. How do I diagnose and repair that? Where do I find parts?
thanks for the video very easy to follow, however I never found any leaks or broken seals and I still have a pulsating problem. as soon as I turn it on its pulsates until I pull the trigger on the handle, as soon as I let go it starts pulsating again. I stripped it right down to the oil compartment - should this be fixed or has it ceased ?? is the motor finished ??
Excellent video, except it would have been nice to see how the black housing activates the switch in the white plastic housing at 7:02. At 11:10, you can see the white plastic pin that looks like it activates the switch through that hole that you see at 7:03. My unit works perfectly well except the motor/pump does not switch off all the time when I release the handle in the wand. I have taken the switch assembly apart, check the uF of the capacity, checked the resistance of the switch and checked all the wiring...no issues there. By the way, I have the K 3.67 M which is identical as far as the motor, pump and switch go.
Yes...but if your unit is not building up enough pressure it will not overcome the spring tension that keeps the switch 'closed'. The buildup of px (pressure) when you release the wand handle will cause the spring pressure to be overcome, resulting in the switch opening and power to the motor being discontinued.
@@inspireality I'll be talking it apart again. As for pressure, this must be internal to the pump since I have zero leaks. The unit may be older, but it is only used 3 times a year; twice to clean summer and winter tires/rims and once to clean the deck. By the way, is this what they call the "unloader" switch?
How did you get the bottom screws out, around the type sticker. Those holes feature some kind of narrowing down, so none of my bit socket screwdrivers seem to fit.
The manufacturer has called for a multigrade oil to be used. Personally, I don't see why a good quality grade of lithium grease couldn't be used as it has decent water resistivity.
Awesome video !!!! Inspireality can you help me with my problem? I have a karcher k4.00 and when i run the karcher gun without any spray lances my pump runs and you can hear it working. When i use the the vario spray lance (on max pressure) or dirt blaster lance the pump won't start when i press the trigger on the gun. When i lower the pressure (vario spray lance) and press the trigger on the gun, it starts working, then i can increase it to the max and works with full pressure. What's could be wrong with my machine ? Thanks
At 7:50, do you have any idea what those notches are that are cut out near each of the pistons? I have water leaking out of those, but I have no idea why it was open to begin with, so I'm scared to seal it
@@inspireality Hey there, thanks for taking the time to write back! Are these the seals your referring to? www.toolsid.com/karcher/12-mm-x-20-mm-x-5-mm-grooved-seal-mpn-6-362-875-0.html Part no. 63628750 on this parts list: www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/Karcher/5970-5550.pdf
There is a compatibility chart with the link that you sent me so make sure that your model is listed. These are the seals that I mentioned in our previous conversation. Good luck, and pls write back with your results!
Sailendran Umakanthan it sounds like damaged valves in your control head. Disassemble and check the plastic valves. Did you use hot water? If so the valves may be melted...
Very helpful video! I had the same issue with my Karcher K3.86 and replacing the control head fixed the pulsing issue. But, now I have a new issue. Since replacing the control head, the motor won't turn on automatically when pressing the trigger on the wand. However, it will turn on if I first hold down the trigger while the motor power switch is in the OFF position, then while continuing to hold down the trigger, flip the power switch to the ON position, the motor will turn on and run at full pressure. When I release the trigger the motor shuts off and then re-engaging the trigger does not turn the motor back on. Water will come out but with out the high pressure. Any ideas what I may have done wrong when replacing the control head?
tomatom01 it sounds like the reassembly may have been c/o incorrectly, in particular the return spring on the piston which activates the oower switch. You may need to download an expanded view showing the assembly parts
Thanks for your reply. I also though the issue may have been in reassembly so I also tried reinstalling the original control head back on and then end result was still pulsating but, the motor would turn on automatically when I press the trigger. After reinstalling the new control head again, the motor would still not turn on automatically when pressing the trigger. At this point I'm assuming maybe the replacement control head is defective. Returning it and getting a new one. Hope that takes care of it. Thank for your feedback.
Hi, I've just taken my karcher apart, and I've noticed that where the swash plate sits is full of water, not dry like yours. Which seals do I need to replace? I'm guessing the 3 grooved seals on the pistons? What about the triangle seal from the pressure head?
@@inspireality I'm guessing the piston seals and o rings are of generic sizes and can be purchased at hardware stores? As I have ordered a new cylinder head, the special grooved seals are included?
@@cgarden23 i don't believe you will have success buying generic, non-specific seals. Download the parts catalogue from Karcher (free) and find the parts you need there. You will have to find a Karcher dealer...probably at a Swish cleaning products store, or directly.
très bonne vidéo, dommage je ne comprends pas l'anglais, quelle huile mettez-vous , car mon karcher 440 M de 1990 à besoin huile neuve et d'une petite révision, merci de votre réponse
I downloaded a pdf from the karcher website. This was almost 5 years ago however and my guess is that Karcher would rather you purchase a new unit than sevice an oldwr one. I will see what I can dig up though!
@@inspireality Im in no need, i just bought a k2 and was looking at some videos of common issues. Ive already found some partlist from a different site. The model is a k2 compact as well, slight different number. internals all look the same on these K2 models though
@@inspireality Yeah was thinking the same, it would be waste and make them to expensive. They reuse as much as possible. What i kinda dislike with my model is that i got a K2 compact with a car kit. This ine misses the detegent tube. But when i look inside through the grill, they basically left of those hose. Im presuming that will now suck in dust. Not 100% sure though. I was thinking of finding a fitting tube and adding it myself
Can you tell me if they make an adapter for that style hose fitting, (where the hose connects to gun, at quick connect) to fit the M22 style wands? Or the name of that end on hose? Thanks
Very useful video. I have a new K3 arriving tomorrow. If I'd known there was so much plastic in high pressure areas I might well have decided on another make.
Now I feel ready to tackle any pressure issues if and when they arise.
Thanks from a Welsh man living in the Republic of Ireland.
You're welcome from a Canadian who has visited Wales... in particular, the beautiful village of Guilsfield!
Cheers!!
You are nothing short of a superstar in my opinion. I saved £250 by buying spare parts costing me £40 & followed your advice on this brill video & now I have a healthy none pulsating karcher 3.80md machine just like it was 8 years ago when I purchased it.😊 thank you.
Shay Barot thank you!
Even made 4 years ago, this tutorial was the best that I'd found on the net. Full of details and recommendations. Thank you so much for your dedication and patience. Only for reference, I'm from Brazil and live in the biggest city in Latin America.
Thank you so much for the kind words! Hello Brazil from Toronto Canada!!
Excellent tutorial. You would not believe how many Web sites and videos I have looked at trying to find how much oil to put in. Yours is the only one I've seen that covers everything from start to finish. Well done.
duckula67 thank you!
My sentiments EXACTLY !!
Great explanations AND videography !!
My Karcher is a K5 Preimum ecologic 1,181-261.0 It does not leak externally and reuns the mains water through it when the power is off.
It will only work on the low pessure soap setting on the wand. I have stripped it down and replenished the oil but it still refuses to run at high pressure.
It has a valve that is operated by the control knob with an Off/ On /Eco function. This only gets depressed for he Eco function and then not depressed to its full travel. It has mainly metal parts not plastic and has been drained down and kept in the garage during the cold weather.
It is behaving as if the high pressure side is restricted so I am going to strip it down again and check for any muck or obstructions on that side.
It also has a soap dispensor knob that regulates the soap that is dispensed.
Great Video and very informative.
make sure to check all the orifices for trapped dirt. could you have a possible wand restriction? did you disconnect the outlet and try the unit for volume increase when turned on?
I've now watched a couple of tutorials on repairing old karchers like mine (this is the best by the way), and they are extremely useful in providing sufficient evidence that tinkering with old karchers is an enormous pain in the arse (especially those 4 bolts!).
Definitely a learning experience!!
Thank you very much. This fixed my K3. It had been in storage for approx 3 years and was surging.
The fix was to strip down, clean and fill with 15w-40. It now works perfectly.
Glad I could help!
One of the best tutorial videos i have found, the spares are plentiful for the Karchers its a pity that they are so expensive even though most parts are made of plastic, i have a power craft washer made by Karcher its 18 years old, not used a lot, had to replace head, seals and micro switch, not bad really.
Thanks very much for the great reply! T
This is the best, well scripted video I've seen on this. Very well done. Thank you. I think for me, however, that I will purchase a new pressure washer. Mine is like 8 years old, if not older. I don't want to throw $100 towards an old pressure washer when a new one is $200. At this point, if one thing is broke it won't be long till something else is broke. I end up spending a dollar to save a nickel. Plastic and rubber parts don't last forever. After seeing how this is made I'm surprised that it's lasted this long......
Thanks for the kind words!
I do concur that investing more money into an already well worn machine is an exercise in futility.
My reservation in buying a brand new unit is only that perhaps the new ones are even of a poorer construction, being that we have invariably become a throw-away society, stemming from the era of the Bic lighter and Schick disposable razor.
Case in point; I have recently serviced and resurrected several old brass valves (made in Canada) with new packings and seals (still available) as opposed to buying the "made in China" replacements which are not only cheaply manufactured, but non-user serviceable.
Our reliance on off shore, inexpensive, throw-away items will, I believe, put us behind the eight ball in the near future. Alas, those who can fend for themselves with regard to self-reliance, or an inclination to mechanical or challenging machinations are a dying breed indeed!
Have a great day.
Tammo
@@inspireality well said!
@@daledemanchuk7920 thank you!
Very clear video, methodical work and done thoroughly, not skating over the surface just to get it going. With this and other machines which have numerous safety and functional cut-outs, it's quite a good idea to mention these towards the end of the reassembly process so that one can bench test the machine before the reassembly is complete (before the body panels and trims are put on) by overriding the cut-outs. This may have to be done quickly as the machine will be running dry and/or with limited cooling. What has happened to me a few times is that I have reassembled the complete machine only to realise that there is another issue. This needs a whole new dismantling process!
There are lots of models of Karcher pressure washers and dozens of different body combinations. Dismantling the body parts needs to be done using intuition and careful examination but note that there are a lot of little plastic spring tabs on some of the bigger machines (eg 10 spring tabs on just one fascia panel on one of the K5s) and these have to be prised apart carefully under warm conditions or they will break off (cold conditions cause the plastic to be brittle).
Thanks for the observations and input!
I agree about the pre-reassembly evaluation although I didn't include this for the sake of simplicity re: necessity to fabricate bypass rig/harness and the potential hazards associated with ops out of a protective housing.
I believe that, like you mentioned, running dry will be detrimental if the end user if not aware of the excess heat created in a short period of time.
Thanks again!
This is by far the best tutorial on this pump that I've been able to come across. Thanks for your hard work documenting your experience working on that pump.
Randy Guidry thanks for the kind words!!
Thank you for your video. It was extremly instructive and thanks to you I brought my Karcher back from the dead. By doing such an awesome tutorial you keep the original spirit of internet alive: sharing freely informations and knowledge worldwide. I would have never been able to fix my machine without you. Greetings from France.
Thank you for the kind words! I'm so happy that this tutorial is helping others. It makes the effort so much more worthwhile! Salut!!
Tammo
Great video, got me up and running. I just replaced every O ring I could find, which did the trick without buying new parts. Thanks for your expert assistance in getting it all apart and back together again!
You are welcome!
Where did you find all the correct o rings? Is there a kit or two you found somewhere online? I ask because mine is apart and I want to replace all the o rings also. Thanks.
with this video, everybody can fix it! very clear. Even the amount of oil to use. Thanks
You are welcome Richard!
Nice relaxing , very clearcut demonstration.
Thank you very much!
Really clear instructions., Karcher first recommended 15/40 oil but then said I needed a viscous oil. My motor lies horizontally so I was concerned that oil might leak, but I see yours is upside down so I am going with the 15/40 oil
Great video…. Just repaired my K4 by replacing the high pressure housing by following your diagnosis and detailed instructions. It was destined for the skip, but it’s back to full pressure again 👍
Glad to help out mate!!
One of the most informative, clearly understood videos I have viewed online. Spoke slowly and clearly.
Thank you so much!!!
This is an amazingly helpful video... I am just stuck on whether to spend the money to fix it myself, by a new one, or take it to a Karcher repair shop and have them do it. I don't have all the parts, oils and lubes. But after watching your video, I feel like if I attempted it, I could do it.
Thank you for the nice comment!
I went through a similar "tug-of-war" when trying to decide if I would navigate the "Karcher"waters, but am quite happy that I did!
The feedback and comments about this tutorial video definitely made it worthwhile, and beyond my wildest expectations. You can do whatever you put your mind to!!!!! Take care,
Tammo
....and for the record, my Karcher is still woking great 4 years later!!
Thanks for this, I have a much older washer but now I understand how they work it should be easy to figure out what the issue is.
You're welcome!
Good luck on the overhaul..
Es el primer video que encuentro de este modelo que es el que yo tengo, la mía perdió presión y solo dispara agua jabonosa.
Ahora se que está muerta y no hay remedio facil. Debo llevarla al taller de servicio. Gracias.
Lo siento amigo..
Saludas,
Tammo
@@inspireality saludos
You are a natural teacher. Ragret Highschool
Well thank you
Thanks for the video. It confirms the operation of the pump - I'd surmised how it worked after partial disassembly of my Karcher K2.080 today. It stopped giving high pressure water yesterday and had black oil dribbling out of the bottom of the casing. BTW, another source of pulsing on and off is a split O-ring on the quick connect mains water hose fitting (if used). I've had that happen a few times over the years. I'm reluctant to buy another budget Karcher - this one is my third. Oh, the generic name for a HP cleaner in Australia used to be Gerni after the Danish brand. I had a Gerni but it failed with earth leakage in the motor which would trip off the power.
Thank you for the feedback, and your own personal experiences with the Karcher. Your comment about purchasing another k2 begs the question as to whether the more expensive Karchers are any better dollar for dollar. My K3 (the actual one in this video) is going strong 8 years later and I used it for a continuous 4 hours yesterday and 2 today with no signs of slowing down.
Perhaps the replacement parts (that I used)are of a better quality, or built to a higher standard.
Maybe an idea would be getting an older, second hand unit for cheap, and then renuilding it with new parts...?
I finally got around to finishing the tear down of the Karcher. I’d done a partial strip but not the pump. When I opened it up, I found the nylon planetary gear had broken up. I still haven’t worked out why the drive assembly had leaked all the oil out.
I wonder if the planetary gear is available. If needs be I’ll hunt down a cheap non-worker for parts. I wish I’d kept the last one.
I forgot to say, the planetary gear isn’t shown in your video, it is between the motor and the pump.
It's always nice to have a spare parts machine kicking about for troubleshooting, and for those parts only available as sub-assemblies at ridiculous costs. Thanks for the heads-up on the planetary set!
thank you so much for your time spent making, editing and uploading this tutorial that it's perfect!
Thanks!
Great video mate I just wish you had gone one level deeper into the gear box.When my K2 was turned on it would instantly start like the wand trigger had been puled and the only way to stop the motor was to turn it off at the switch. I pulled my K2 apart following your instructions and everything was fine so I dug a little deeper and found the nylon gears attached to the drive shaft had been shredded. My k2 is only a couple of months old as well. It is a warranty claim but I cant fine the Proof of Purchase. so its fix or buy a new one. The cost to replace the Nylon gears plus shipping to Thailand is more that the cost of a new K2 sadly. Anyway thanks for the great insights it was a big help .
Sorry it didn't work out!
Take care.
Great video
You helped me a lot
I fixed my Karcher
Thank you
👍👍👍
You're welcome!
Glad I could help...
Many thanx for your super video on Karcher diagnosis & repair !!!
Colin Aglae you are welcome!!
Muy buen video y aunque no esta en español pues le entendí todo lo que explico muchas gracias y que Dios lo siga Bendiciendo y que siga subiendo más videos de cómo arreglar las karcher y muchas gracias
De nada !!!
Very good demonstration and well explained every step of the way. Thank you for a quality repair video.
you are very welcome. i'm glad that it helped you out!
Very clear and briefly explain video tq , i want to know is it ok to add 10w40 along with the previous grease?
10w40 oil is fine and will mix with the grease. Ultimately, the key is adequate lubrication.
Tq
very concise video.....well done!
@@daledemanchuk7920 thanks very much!
Thank you for this great explanation and lesson!
You are very welcome Uwe!
Excellent video. I am quite confident that I can repair my machine. Parts will be much less than a new machine.
Absolutely cheaper to DIY!
Great to learn at the same time....
Thank you, thank you soo much. u save my life. I dismounted the high pressure head and the springs I put them upside down. so could no water pressure. Thanks to your video I was able to see where I went wrong.
Glad we could help out!!!
My pressure washer model is 6/15 M. I have a problem with the pressure, only between 80-100 bar. Sound is like oscillating inside the machine
Kindly let me know guys
GREAT clear video/tutorial with perfect camera angles. Thank you!
Glad you approve!
T
I have a leaking K3 000. I opened up the power washer and found that the housing at 6:48 has a hairy crack. I tried to repair it by using different kind of glues, including hot glue. Nothing worked and it is still leaking like crazy when I re-assembled everything and turned it on with water supply. I have done some researches but it looked like that the only solution to to buy the plastic housing. It costs CAD80 to 90 including shipping to buy the part and to wait a month or so to get it. And it is not guaranteed that this is the only problem.
I like DIY stuffs. Finally, I tried plastic welding method. I have a basic soldering iron and I set it to the highest temperature and melted the platic material along the crack. Then I melted a zip tie to add thickness to the cracked surface. According to some youtube tutorial, I covered a tiny bit of steel wool (kitchen stuff after washing and drying) on top of the melted zip tie material. Applied soldering iron again to the steel wool to integrate it to the surface of the housing.
Then, there is another step after the above procedure. I mixed baking soda and super glue on top of the melted plastic. I added just enough baking soda on top and applied bit by bit super glue to the Baking soda. Thin layers will do. After a few minutes, a very hard layer was covering the wounded housing.
When I reassembled the washer, I found the flimsy soft plastic switch control was broken. I used the same baking soda and super glue method to fix it. It was a success. Pay attention and don't add excessive glue. Otherwise, you won't be able to turn it on and off.
Anymore leaking ? Not anymore. The pressure is back to life. Happy spraying everybody.
I believe that cracked plastic is reparable and hopefully people will benefit from my experience.
Thanks very much for sharing your repair process on the manifold. You were fortunate in that the crack was on the outside in an accessible spot.
Thank you for an excellent video. Explanation is clear. I have a Karcher K5. It does nothing when I turn it on, doesn't make a sound. I have verified power to the unit and run water through the pump for 30 minutes (to get rid of any air in the system). It worked perfectly when I put it away in my heated workshop for the winter. Any Ideas on what the problem is?
Sounds like the pressure switch is stuck. Try exercising the on/off switch repeatedly for a few minutes to free it up.
@@inspireality Thanks, I will give that a try.
THE BEST VIDEO by far what l have seen on yt . Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words....glad the video is helping out.
I have to commend you on your instructional video. I did not detect even once where you used the hackneyed phrase "Now we're going to >go ahead< and remove the four Allen screws."
Thank you!
Superb tutorial well explained and easy to follow
Thanks very much! Glad that you like..
Thanks for the detailed and easy to get TUT, It'll really help me a lot, hope that i'll be able to repair the pressure washer i borrowed. Anyway, im from Philippines, thanks again and morr power
Walang anuman po!! (my girlfriend is Filipina)
Really, that's great, are you leaving here in the philippines?
If virus and lockdown end, maybe cavite late summer...
Superbly described 100%
Thanks!
excellent teaching. Thanks Guru. I wish there are many more videos from you on various garden power tools,
Thanks for the kind words!
Great video very clearly explained thanks
Thanks!
Hello. Good breakdown. Had to look at a good diagram with all the parts. I opened everything again while watching your video, and this time washer pieces fell out. It turned out to be an O-ringing on the high pressure connector. It had low pressure work a while, then surged the next day, with no real pressure. Wish I noticed the pieces before taking all of the guts apart. Definitely check the O-RIngs as pieces are taken apart. Here it is, a cheap fix. Will see in a few days when I get it in the mail. Couldn't find local.
Karcher O-Ring D. 10 X 2 Nbr 70 - 6.362-151.0
Thanks for the information. Let us know your repair results with an update post; certainly the specs will come in handy for someone especially with a diagram blowup.
Thought for sure that O-Ring was the only problem. Now something is leaking for sure. Will open back up again to see. Wish the wells for the torx screws were not so deep. Might need some help. I've fixed another with similar internals a bunch years ago. Will see
@@danrio8870 see the video for the special tool I built for the deep torx screws
@@inspireality I ordered a long Torx that just fits. Thinking, I didn't open the plastic pump housing triangular piece as it was stuck together. Will look again tomorrow. This is my 2nd Karcher and trying not to give up on this one.
If oil is used, wouldn't it have to be filled up all the way somehow since the bearing ends up being at the top when standing upright? I just cleaned out the watery gunk, and used fresh grease on the bearing race and plate.
Initial overhaul I used white lithium grease with no issues. Karcher recommends oil, but either will work as the bearing and swash plate are lubricated by the 'spash lubrication" method.
good video - great job - but what is missing between taking it apart and reassembly is - how did you test the part you took out - and what was done with the leaking of said part?can one put a water hose to it? put some caps on the outlet and see where it leaks from? because you mentioned that you replaced one part. but weren't really sure if or not it would fix the problem - which ultimately it did not fix your initial problem . . . . otherwise very good . . .
J. Peters thanks for the comment!
It was not possible to dynamically test the parts beyond the in situ stage. Static testing would have required a pressure far beyond that available from city water px of 60 psi. The unit did not have internal leakage present at that pressure.
thanks for sharing, excellent explanation greetings from Tijuana BC Mexico
You're welcome!
Hola de Canada!!!!
Thanks for this video pal. I've replaced the head and control bit but mine is still pulsating? I'm stumped. No leaking water.
EDIT: Anyone reading this, my pressure relief valve (small red tube in the inlet side of manifold) had grit sticking it open, took it apart, cleaned and greased and all working fine again.
Is it creating any decent pressure?
@@inspireality not great pressure no, stopping and starting has just started this month. Had it about 15years without a fault. Karcher 3.68m
@@dannyboy8067 have a look at the video around 12:50. It sounds like your manifold has an internal crack between the high and low pressure galleries...
@@inspireality Thanks but I've replaced the head, the manifold and the piston oil seals and it's still pulsing. I'm totally baffled.
Oh and I thought it had pressure when in use but it's not enough to use my snow foam gun, it just dribbles out the end of that.
2 questions:
1) Have you run the unit with hose off?
2) Was the manifold a new or used part?
Your welcome i got into the history of fire engines once thay were built for them at one time
thank you from Indonesia
You are welcome from Canada!!!
Excellent tutorial. I find that all the parts are so expensive for these pressure washers. It’s cheaper to buy a used working pressure washer for $30-50 instead of taking the time to fix them.
Shafi Mohammad you are right.
The parts should be much less money so one can afford to repair as opposed to throwing away.
We have become such a wasteful society.....
Thanks for your comment Shafi!
@@inspireality its expensive because there's only few companies that manufacturing these parts
Very good tutorial. Very good camera work.
Thank you very much Drew!
Awasome video. Well explained
Thanks very much!
Great video! Thanks to this video I currently have mine apart and about to order the part. I've had my 3.960 for about a year and all of a sudden the surging issue started. By the way, you mentioned using 10W-40 and towards the end mention 15w-40. I'm assuming the latter is preferred? Also, what did you use to clean the gunk off the springs?
Depending on where you live, 10w40 would be good for canadian climate, 15w40 for warmer areas such as Mexico, Panama, Middle East etc.
Clean the springs and pumping cavity with isopropyl alcohol or a solvent cleaner but avoid contact with the rubber or synthetic parts like seals or o rings
@@inspireality Thank you so much for the reply and advice. I'm in Texas so looks like 15w40 it is.
@@inspireality Everything is buttoned up and works like a charm! It's been so long since i used it I was expecting the motor to shut off lol. Thanks again for this awesome video!
Glad to have helped out...take care!!
I have the same model as per video which is excellent by the way. Today I attached the water hose to the washer. Reset the the power supply. The light came on. I mistakenly turned the washer on before realizing the water source was off. The pump ran for all of 2 seconds before shutting down. Now the washer won't turn on. The power supply tests ok still.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Is there any pressure at the wand?
What light? The GFI?
Cycle power switch.
Thank you. I have hard water. I cleared out the wand tip & the entry filter, but my Karcher unit still has an even low pressure (no leaking or pulsating). Where next can I check for lime build up ?
i believe that your valves in the head assembly are probably calcified or worn. you will need to disassemble, and then inspect the plastic valves.
if you refer to the video, you will see what I am referring to.
check the video around 12:30
@@inspireality Thank you. Not a quick fix by any means. Mechanical things used to last longer when they were made from metal, not plastic. My Kenmore washing machine from 1980 still works fine.
Thank you. May God reward you
Thank you !!!
Great video, you explain things so well it made me want to fix my own pump which is a Simoniz (not a Karcher) but I suspect it looks the same. Question: Did the pump run well after the overhaul? Thank you for the great tutorial!
The pressure washer performed like a new unit after the overhaul
Hi, is yours a simoniz 201, which is just a rebranded Karcher? If yes, check the relief valve that relieves overpressure from the high side to the water inlet. It's a yellow valve. You can see it from the clear PET inlet elbow. Mine came dislodged because the retainer plastic inside the clear elbow warped and let the valve pop off. I'm surprised there's practically no information about this valve on the internet. It seems the problem might only happen on models with the weaker clear PET inlet elbows and not on models with the black PA66 inlet.
Great video. Very well demonstrated and explained. Good videography also.
Could you PLEASE tell me why the pressure hose keeps popping off the threaded connector at the base of that model unit. I have the same model and it works fine to create pressure without leaks, but just started popping the hose off as soon as I let go of the trigger. I did repair/replace the on/off switch and the inlet 90 connector a couple years ago and it has worked flawlessly until yesterday. Hope you can help.
Lubricate the o-ring seals on the connection to allow the thread to grab further onto the fitting.
inspireality It is all the way in and bottoms out. The threads are not binding but strong and threaded as far in as possible!
Could it be the unloader? For the one you did here and my K3.68M, I believe it is in the wand handle. I took it apart and even though the O rings are undamaged, they seem stiff and hard. But I can’t find just the o rings online anywhere. Might you know where I could get them? The assorted set I have from Harbor Freight aren’t thick enough.
Is the unloader in the handle as I suspect and if so might that be the problem with it kicking pressure back through the pressure hose popping the hose off? Thank you very much for your expert help!!
Hi. Sorry for the late reply.
The unloader is not in the handle;
It is in the unit itself.
If the hose is blowing off (meaning excessive pressure), then there is an adjustment that can be made on the unloading spring, assuming that you have a continuous run machine. This spring should not need to ever be adjusted however, but perhaps it was in error?
The threads are only brass on the pump connection (to HP hose) so you need to determine if the fittings are worn/damaged and take action accordingly.
inspireality The threads on both the HP hose male connector (at base of unit) and female connector (end of HP hose) are plastic(I wish they were brass). The threads look good, no scaring and don’t look worn. The male connector is cheap enough to replace but the HP hose is not.
The back pressure when releasing the trigger on the wand must now have become excessive, causing the hose to pop off even when threaded.
BTW, my Model is not a constant run. The pump and motor stop when the trigger on the wand is released.
I looked at the parts breakdown diagrams and can’t find anything referring to the unloader valve (maybe I missed it. Could you please tell me where that adjustment is for the spring you mentioned? Thank you very much for your help!
The non-continuous run models do not have an unloading spring per day. The spring is part of the pressure switch mechanism. When the handle is squeezed, pressure on the end of the sliding white piston is reduced allowing
Very detailed, great video, thanks for taking time to prepare and upload it. It was very helpful.
You are welcome!
Hi could you tell me if I am able to purchase a head unit pump for my karcher type 211 all I can see is type k11 k12 etc is mine k11??
Excellent..thanks
Most welcome!
Great job. Thanks
Thanks!
are all karcher washers the same to repair, i have a karcher 550m. will not start when pluged in and also losing pressure. excellent video. well done.
I believe the basics exist in all the karcher models, however depending on gpm values and claimed pressure, the part numbers will vary.
@@inspireality thank you.
This video has been very helpful, fixed low pressure problem , now it makes a screeching noise when it cuts off or handle is released, any ideas?
Could be air
Thank you it's working so I'll see if it disperses. Your video was really good and a great help so thank you
You're welcome!
Glad I could help.
Tammo
Thanks a Million
You're welcome!!!
Great video! My 10 year old Karcher K3.81M worked for a few minutes this morning, then stopped. I could not start. I cleaned the feed filter. It worked for a few minutes, then stopped. I had to turn the power to the washer off, and waited for ~15 min. Then I could start, then it worked for a few minutes and stopped again. Could you please advise how to fix? Thanks.
Is it overheating? Does the GFI trip? Does it sound normal?
Are you plugged into a long extension cord?
Please answer all these first. Thanks!
My Karcher electric power washer has no force behind the water when you squeeze the lever on the wand. How do I diagnose and repair that? Where do I find parts?
do you have a video after you fix it. thankscongrats !
Synthiq, no I don't have a video for after the repair was performed.
Yes and yes!
Very detailed and informative, many thanks.
You're welcome!
thanks for the video very easy to follow, however I never found any leaks or broken seals and I still have a pulsating problem. as soon as I turn it on its pulsates until I pull the trigger on the handle, as soon as I let go it starts pulsating again. I stripped it right down to the oil compartment - should this be fixed or has it ceased ?? is the motor finished ??
Lee Bennett i think your manifold has an internal crack between the hi and lo pressure sides
Excellent video, except it would have been nice to see how the black housing activates the switch in the white plastic housing at 7:02. At 11:10, you can see the white plastic pin that looks like it activates the switch through that hole that you see at 7:03. My unit works perfectly well except the motor/pump does not switch off all the time when I release the handle in the wand. I have taken the switch assembly apart, check the uF of the capacity, checked the resistance of the switch and checked all the wiring...no issues there. By the way, I have the K 3.67 M which is identical as far as the motor, pump and switch go.
Yes...but if your unit is not building up enough pressure it will not overcome the spring tension that keeps the switch 'closed'. The buildup of px (pressure) when you release the wand handle will cause the spring pressure to be overcome, resulting in the switch opening and power to the motor being discontinued.
@@inspireality I'll be talking it apart again. As for pressure, this must be internal to the pump since I have zero leaks. The unit may be older, but it is only used 3 times a year; twice to clean summer and winter tires/rims and once to clean the deck. By the way, is this what they call the "unloader" switch?
What an excellent video thank you
you are welcome! glad it was well received....
How did you get the bottom screws out, around the type sticker. Those holes feature some kind of narrowing down, so none of my bit socket screwdrivers seem to fit.
the video shows you a tool that i made for that job of removing those screws
why you dont use grease ?
The manufacturer has called for a multigrade oil to be used. Personally, I don't see why a good quality grade of lithium grease couldn't be used as it has decent water resistivity.
Proper shots, thanks!
thanks!
Is lt the same way we can do for other model such as k2.350..tq
Yes, most models are similar in design.
i got the same thingy. It pulses on off on off do you have any idea what should i order?
Manifold assembly has internal crack. See end of video for part number.
Cheers!
inspireality thx
is oil better in the place of grease or grease is a better option?what comes officially from karcher inside it grease or oil(for pistons)?
Oil is the lubricant used during assembly by Karcher.
I believe a 15w40 grade is best but a straight grade could also work....say an SAE 30 or 40
Officially karcher inside grease
i like the way you explin things good job keep up the good work and thank you ^^
Thanks mohamed. You're welcome!
the k3 350 machine is missing parts on the market, the manufacturer's technical catalog does not have the piston code and description.
How can i help you?
appreciate the attention, but few parts found here do not make the repair of the machine worthwhile
Hi, I 've removed the cover and run the washer. It is still pulsing. But I cannot see any water leak. Any idea? Thanks for the help
I would suspect an internal leak in the manifold between the hp and lp sides. It won't necessarily leak out externally....
Is it water cooled like k4?
My powerwasher is a stanley fairly new but it started making a knocking noise do u have any suggestions thanks
i lost my check valve.. I wanna know if the machine can work without that little peace of plastic ?
Awesome video !!!!
Inspireality can you help me with my problem? I have a karcher k4.00 and when i run the karcher gun without any spray lances my pump runs and you can hear it working. When i use the the vario spray lance (on max pressure) or dirt blaster lance the pump won't start when i press the trigger on the gun. When i lower the pressure (vario spray lance) and press the trigger on the gun, it starts working, then i can increase it to the max and works with full pressure. What's could be wrong with my machine ? Thanks
sounds like it might be the start capacitor.
At 7:50, do you have any idea what those notches are that are cut out near each of the pistons? I have water leaking out of those, but I have no idea why it was open to begin with, so I'm scared to seal it
The notches in the housing allow for any seal leakage to escape. If you have leakage, you should replace the seals.
@@inspireality Hey there, thanks for taking the time to write back!
Are these the seals your referring to? www.toolsid.com/karcher/12-mm-x-20-mm-x-5-mm-grooved-seal-mpn-6-362-875-0.html
Part no. 63628750 on this parts list: www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/Karcher/5970-5550.pdf
There is a compatibility chart with the link that you sent me so make sure that your model is listed.
These are the seals that I mentioned in our previous conversation.
Good luck, and pls write back with your results!
I have allextreme power washer, in that if release the water trigger in gun, the motor is keep on running, due to this pressure is very low
what to do
Sailendran Umakanthan it sounds like damaged valves in your control head. Disassemble and check the plastic valves. Did you use hot water? If so the valves may be melted...
Very helpful video! I had the same issue with my Karcher K3.86 and replacing the control head fixed the pulsing issue. But, now I have a new issue. Since replacing the control head, the motor won't turn on automatically when pressing the trigger on the wand. However, it will turn on if I first hold down the trigger while the motor power switch is in the OFF position, then while continuing to hold down the trigger, flip the power switch to the ON position, the motor will turn on and run at full pressure. When I release the trigger the motor shuts off and then re-engaging the trigger does not turn the motor back on. Water will come out but with out the high pressure. Any ideas what I may have done wrong when replacing the control head?
tomatom01 it sounds like the reassembly may have been c/o incorrectly, in particular the return spring on the piston which activates the oower switch.
You may need to download an expanded view showing the assembly parts
Thanks for your reply. I also though the issue may have been in reassembly so I also tried reinstalling the original control head back on and then end result was still pulsating but, the motor would turn on automatically when I press the trigger. After reinstalling the new control head again, the motor would still not turn on automatically when pressing the trigger. At this point I'm assuming maybe the replacement control head is defective. Returning it and getting a new one. Hope that takes care of it. Thank for your feedback.
exelente video,gracias por compartir.
De nada !
Hi, I've just taken my karcher apart, and I've noticed that where the swash plate sits is full of water, not dry like yours. Which seals do I need to replace? I'm guessing the 3 grooved seals on the pistons? What about the triangle seal from the pressure head?
manny Ip man you will have to buy a seal kit that includes the piston seals and may now come with all the essential rebuild o rings etc
@@inspireality I'm guessing the piston seals and o rings are of generic sizes and can be purchased at hardware stores? As I have ordered a new cylinder head, the special grooved seals are included?
@@cgarden23 i don't believe you will have success buying generic, non-specific seals.
Download the parts catalogue from Karcher (free) and find the parts you need there. You will have to find a Karcher dealer...probably at a Swish cleaning products store, or directly.
Can power steering fluid be used instead of motor oil
Very good job
Have U the same for the k4.650 or can u Help me to find it
Thank in advance
sorry. Only the k3.450 however the workings are the same. you can download the parts manual at karcher.com
Thanks buddy! great video
enrique soto castro you're welcome!
I have a K3.740 but my washer wont shut off even when you shut the switch off any thoughts
pressure switch
très bonne vidéo, dommage je ne comprends pas l'anglais, quelle huile mettez-vous , car mon karcher 440 M de 1990 à besoin huile neuve et d'une petite révision, merci de votre réponse
De rien mon ami!
Where did you find schemes for all the part numbers, been looking like crazy, cant seem to find them. Only for these older models
Ive found a couple i think. The model is a bit different, though internal looks same. I got a 1673.504
I downloaded a pdf from the karcher website. This was almost 5 years ago however and my guess is that Karcher would rather you purchase a new unit than sevice an oldwr one.
I will see what I can dig up though!
Many models utilize the same innards.
@@inspireality Im in no need, i just bought a k2 and was looking at some videos of common issues. Ive already found some partlist from a different site. The model is a k2 compact as well, slight different number. internals all look the same on these K2 models though
@@inspireality Yeah was thinking the same, it would be waste and make them to expensive. They reuse as much as possible. What i kinda dislike with my model is that i got a K2 compact with a car kit. This ine misses the detegent tube. But when i look inside through the grill, they basically left of those hose. Im presuming that will now suck in dust. Not 100% sure though. I was thinking of finding a fitting tube and adding it myself
Can you tell me if they make an adapter for that style hose fitting, (where the hose connects to gun, at quick connect) to fit the M22 style wands? Or the name of that end on hose? Thanks
Not familiar with that, but as it is prioritary, I tend to doubt it....
Dang these have a big ass motor in them, is that due to being 110v? THe k2 has really a tiny motor with a big white housing around. Its 1400w 110 bar
Actually it's because these pumps are 100% duty cycle and if they are too lightly built they will overheat and burn out.
Top 5 all time intro right here folks.
Hey thanks!!