As soon as I saw the old filter, I said, "That looks like it came from K-Mart in 1978." When you said 1979, I was actually surprised that I got that close. LOL
I have a similar knack when it comes to wheels and the trim for cars. " hey that looks it belong to a '74 firebird" the owner was flabbergasted" Why yes, its from a 1973 455 firebird I swapped out because its cast iron" I honestly have no idea why they'd make a wheel out of cast iron, same material as your typical kitchen cast iron skillet at that! and i flaout picked out a 1967 corvette ring and center hub set of 4 for my father when he was looking for replacement. Just like that. While we are on the similar topic. there is people out there that collect hubcaps and such and they are quite collectable .
@@gentlemanzackp6591 Yeah, I bought a '55 Chevy 210 that had some random hubcaps on it. I thought they looked like something off a mid 70s LTD or something... I was close. They came off an early 70s Ranchero. LOL
No doubt they have been shrinking the filter gradually over the years. I’m glad you could jump back 45 years and see the cumulative cheapening of those things.When i said shrinking i mean the filter material not the outer shell.
Thirty-plus-a-few years ago I owned a 1979 Pinto station wagon with that 2.3 L I-4 engine. Bought it with a PH8A installed and always used the same. I used that car as a commuter, a camper, a pickup and a jeep. I sold it with over 200K miles on it and it ran like a champ. The new owner didn't seem to care that the doors sagged so bad you had to pick them up to close them. 😆
I almost hate to say it, but a Chevy chevette was a car you could not kill lol. The whole car would be rattling and falling apart but it would never fail to start, run, and go almost anywhere. Ford escorts same. Junk cars that refused to die. Lol. God bless.
"This cat says 1979 was 45 years ago! Can you believe....." (Checks drivers license...born in 1973, just celebrated 51st birthday) "Son of a bitch.....I really am getting old"
Had a '69 GTX Road Runner in the '70s 440 6pack headers, 4speed. Dana 60 positraction Toooo damn fast. It would break loose in 2nd gear and fish tail smoking tires. Good memories. God bless.
Meh, not so much, because the odds are that the money the filter cost in '79, would be worth more today than the filter he just bought. Just sayin', it's well known that you buy a standard Fram when cost is of utmost importance, NOT to get the best filter available for (most) engines.
I've been doing this for 40+years. Sold them all. Every year, every week, unknowing customers, shops, etc, have had a hard on for Fram filters. I have personally been to their manufacturing plant, as well as Purolator and Donaldson. The PH8A is always the one filter competition takes apart. Rather than being mere parts swappers, understand the product and how and why it was created. They are all engineered for certain variables and there's a huge file for each and everyone. Rather than doing a thesis, I will give a quick example about the PH8A filter. The amount of pleats,the media material and bypass valves were designed by engineers to, listen closely, when clogged,to bypass and send dirty oil,which is better than no oil,back into the engine. This is what Ford and Chrysler designed the first spin on filters to do, because early cars either had no filter or used a drop in cartridge filter. OEM engineers found that most people didn't know to even change their oil, as if they had service work done, it was done along other work. OEM's found too many warranty issues along the way, and loss of oil pressure due to dirty oil and the wear that came with it, found that they had to get the customers to change out the oil. First type of filters were a novelty at best, and for a few years, still customers didn't change their oil; old habits die hard. So, the OEM's built and engineered the filters to a fail-safe standard. The pleats were limited in size and amount. Less pleats, allowed for more oil flow, and less pressure on the media, so the oil would bypass the filter when clogged, and continue to circulate. This was true of all "a" suffix filters, as Motorcraft was FL1A filter, which were made by Autolite, a future Bendix company, who made Fram. Filters have to perform, regardless who makes it. They are designed and made to the OEM standards,because if companies made subpar filters, they'd be paying out millions of dollars for warranty claims, which a $3.00 filter,back then, would be a huge financial mistake, bankrupting many companies along the way. I have used,sold and feel proud to recommend Fram filters. Research and understand how and why things do what they do, before you spout false information.
I've seen 3 failed Fram fuel filters that didn't have a hole to allow fuel to flow. Returned zero. And since no one in the history of the world has ever returned an oil filter.... well. What kind of logic chain is this?
They didn't return failed oil filters because the engine was blown so the oil filter was the least of their worries. I'll keep to my Wix. Every company I've ever worked for, and I'm 54 used only wix filters on all equipment. God bless y'all.
It always pains me to see the new Fram filters. My dad retired from Fram after 45 years. He started there when was very small in Pawtucket, RI. They grew and moved to E. Providence/Rumford where the Main plant, HQ and Engineering was. He met my mother there. My brothers and I both worked there. When Bendix screwed up and Allied Signal Took over they forced us to use their media and was garbage. They forced us to pay them for buying us and forced retirements. It then went to Honeywell and do not know or care where now. I left in '84 as the writing was on the wall and my Dad retired too. Very sad it was a very good company and people.
@@WhipCityWrencher GE appliances are a good example of how quality has declined over the last 10 or 12 years.We used to use glass top ranges in a triplex`s apt.s .Now the quality of the GE glass top ranges are so bad you`re lucky to get 2 years out of the range before very difficult to repair top breaks. The old glass top ranges had an oven heat vent in rear of range. The new ones have none! Maybe that`s why the new glass top ranges keep breaking? No way to vent hot oven air so weakens glass over time. We would rather use the old Fram filter even with the little bit of rust over the new one.
@@frederickbooth7970 GE is not GE any longer. It's owned by the giant Chinese conglomerate called Haier. Makes the hair on the back of your neck stand up just thinking about it. But then our president is also made in China now, too.
I was in high school in 1979, mostly in the Automotive building where it was Pennzoil oil and Fram filters. I've used this combination in my American vehicles with cast iron engines without any major mechanical engine failures. (Since 2016 for me, it's synthetic oils and synthetic oil filters.)
I was a production technician working for Fram Corporation in the early to late 70's. Fram was an awesome company to work for, and the quality of their filters were the best.
Need to watch good reputable tests available for the consumer. Maybe they are a good company to work for, but for quality filters, they just don't rate
@@artbrookey3468 Fram had the best filters,re-read his comment he worked their in the 1970's...FRAM had the best filters even in the 1990's,the last 24 years they went down in quality...
I remember the PH8A as my dad’s 1972 Plymouth Satellite 318 took it. What a bullet proof engine! My sister had a Dodge Dart around the same time and it had the slant six, also bullet proof! Mopar made some good power plants back then.
I just had a brand new Fram filter fail on me. My mechanic says "A lot of old guys still buy these because they remember when the quality was good." Thanks, buddy.
Frams aren’t bad filters. I’ve used them all over many years along with Motorcraft, AC Delco, Wix, and other filters. The main thing that destroys engines is lack of maintenance. Keep your automobile on a service schedule.
Fram back in the day was good, what soured me on them is they don’t roll the seams as well and they would leak on the seams in the 1990s. If we could remove the grip media from new one, you could tell metal is definitely lighter weight and crushes way easier imo
I love this video. I think the deformation and uneven spacing of the filter media on Old Filter shows exactly what the rusty baseplate shows. Moisture.
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Correct. You can still find old filters with no rust.
I've never in my 68 years bought any filter other than Fram. Never had a filter related failure. But I must say, the old one appears to have been made better. Too bad you didn't have the filtration specs on the filter element paper.
I ran a FRAM PH8A oil filters on my ‘86 F-250 5 liter gas motor (changed every 3000 miles) for 300,000 miles for 23 years and never had a problem. I think folks over think too many things these days (IMO). 👍
I was in the parts business for many many years. Sold thousands of Fram filters. Never got one back! Say what you will, they were fine filters. We cut up one of each of all the major brands many years ago. Most any of the name brands were fine. The 'cheap' brands were made by the same companies, but to the seller's specs. Most all of the filters were made by just a few manufacturers. Remember, when cars first came out, they did not have filters! ;)
I had a 87 d150 with a 318. Bought it with 129000 on in. That night did an oil change notcied that it had same threads as our 84 f150 and grabbed an ph8a off shelf. Used fram till stopped drivin the truck with over 500000 on stock engine. Changed oil every 2000 miles. Went through 2 timin chains 1st at 150000 2nd at almost 500000. Never had an issue with the fram.
When I was farming in the 70s, every car, pickup truck and grain truck I owned were either Ford or International Harvester. PH8A fit them all, I had shelves and shelves of them. They were cheaper than the FL1A Motorcraft and since I was just getting started in farming I was pinching my penny’s. I never had a single issue with Fram, but about 10 years ago I went to the auto parts to get Fram filters and they told me they were all recalled. I have been using Wix ever since.
@@ChrisPatrick-q6kyes factory oil filters for my wife’s rav4 are under $8 US, why would I by aftermarket. As a Harley Davidson technician I seen many times where dude spend $30k to $40k on a bike then cheap out on an oil filter that saved him $5. Maintenance is cheap. Do it right.
Very Well Done Sir! I’ve been dissecting oil filters for years, starting with my Dad with our motorcycles 35 years ago. It’s amazing what you can learn from a vehicle doing this “especially with a bike engine that shares its engine oil with the transmission and clutch”! It’s unbelievable how many visible metal particles are suspended in in the filter media of a bike compared to a car. It would give a person a heart attack if it was their first time seeing it!
My dad worked for fram for 35 years my brother worked there for 15 and i worked there for 7 years we maid these very filters My brother actually ran the paper oven. I asembled them before the paint both in what was known as the ph line.
My first car was a 1992 ford E350 with 200,000 miles on it the previous owner used the fram ph8a and I carried on using it too. I believe it worked, changed the oil every 3,000 miles, ran fine, lasted long time.
I had a 1990 E-350 with a 300ci (4.9l) changed the oil every 3k with mobile-1 and a FL1A. The thing that gave up was the wiring and body rusted out with central Kentucky road salt. Motor burned no oil and kept mains and other gaskets in it to prevent leaks. Had 395k on it before getting a new truck in 2017. Also worth mentioning the van was free at 144k due to a crap mechanic in Naples FL telling owner motor had no compression on 1,2 the oem copper core plugs were stuck in the head with the straps burn off. New plugs, cap ,rotor and fuel injector service it was idling smooth. Motor mounts were a issue until I burnt off rubber in a old coffee can and welded plates together. Still smooth. Old motors were much easier to work on.
old PH8A Ftw ! ✅ i Changed alot of those filters back in the 70'80's. Real Common filter for V8 in a Truck. also used in after market external oil filter setups.
@@homerfry9234Don't know, don't change my on oil anymore. ( To hard on the ol legs here) But over the yrs, didn't have any problems. Use K&Ns filter on my Harleys. 🇺🇸😎
@@gabbyhayes4561 No, it was a lower quality item then as it is now. So because you used it for 30 years and now know its low quality you would still install it? C'mon man thats not tkinking straight.
So nice of Chuck! The old filter looks so good! So much more filter media, and more absorbent, too! Thanks for sharing another great video! Always like to view old filters, and how they compare to filters made nowadays. Indeed, this is an interesting video! 👍
You will have to go back further than that. I already thought that Fram filters were crap back in the 70's. Back then I used Purolator filters. The old Fram is still way better than the new one though.
Dad bought the family a Bobcat back in the 80's, and four pintos too. No kidding, we had five of them in the driveway at one time and they were all being driven.
@@rickd650 Yeah weird is an understatement. They were dirt cheap, easy to work on, and my brothers and I were all turning driving age. So he started going to state surplus auctions and buying the cheapest running cars he could find. They were Pintos, and as much as I hated them back then (I love them today), they were really good cars for teenagers.
@@garettanderson6772 Mavericks were inexpensive and easy to work on as well. All ours had the 250 straight six, which was about as bulletproof as they come. Ours were all blue. Light blue, dark blue, and mine was an LDO (luxury decor option) that was light blue with a dark blue vinyl top. Made giving directions to our house real easy, if nothing else.
In the 70s and 80s, my folks had only Fords. I had both Fords and Mopars. They ALL used a PH8A. I still have half a dozen in my garage from the late 80s. But now I have 3 Chevies!
8A is the size I use on my Datsun 280Z so that immediately caught my attention as that’s a size I still buy. Fun fact: Brownsville PA is home to the first all metal bridge in America. Still standing and still in use opened in 1839
I was made in 1979 too. Old is gold. I think these filters work on the 5.0 ford engines too. I know I have bought many PH8A filters in my short time on earth.
That white residue on the gasket is mold release. I used a BUNCH of those old PH8A's back then until maybe the early '90's. They were fine. I used Wix and Lee and Purolator then too. Depended on what the store had. Fram was mostly a 'discount department store' filter. Most of the 'pro' auto parts stores carried other brands. Fram used to be a better filter until they sacrificed production quality to get market saturation, kind of like Wix now. Fram has seemingly recovered from the last few decades and is making better products.
Been using Fram filters and Valvoline oil for as long as I’ve been driving (over 40 years). Never had an oil issue unless it was a leak. Always changed the oil between 3000-5000 miles (or 3-4 months) Back when you could do a full tuneup and oil change for roughly $20. And most of the parts were available in Kmart auto department
To me, the takeaway is that FRAM was never the tops, but it's worse now. (I was discouraged from using FRAM filters as a new driver. These types of videos prove why.) It's amazing how much they've changed their quality over the years, but I guess that's not so uncommon. Anyway, thanks for doing this 👍👍👍
They meet minimum OEM standards. I used them for 20 years myself. But I have seen quite a few oil filter autopsies recently where the felt end caps & filter paper just crumbled when touched. Granted, these were filters with 10k plus miles on them.
I've been to the Wix's plant in Dillon S.C. they make about every oil filter you can buy and watching them make those filters. They are exactly the same process .BUT, the difference is that better filters have more paper and thicker paper . There for you get what you pay for.
One question about the filter media - it does look like the old one may filter more. But is it possible it cause more bypassing? My understanding is filters go into bypass more than generally thought, probably several times when the engine is running and experiencing various acceleration and deceleration. I still use Fram Tough Guard on my 05 ranger with 180k miles on it, and it runs like a top. And even TGs have the "cardboard" endcaps. Do I think these Extra Guards are usable? Yes, however, probably for around the same price there's better built filter available, even if for all practical intents and purposes, the only real difference is the other fulter being "built better".
Back in the 80s up thru 2000s, i used Fram Filters. Then there was some comparisons and the Purolator One (PL20195) as on top for the price. They were as available as the Frams PH8A filters were. I now add Remote Filters to most of my cars which use the same PH8A (PL20195) filters I've used forever. These even work for my Mowers and 2.0 Fords same thread/size and adds half a quart or more oil per change with bigger filter cans vs the stock half sized junk. My 2016 Mustang & Ford Focuses & 1991 F150 as well as the mowers all 1 filter now 😆 😂😂 should buy them by dozen :)😊
Everyone hates on fram but when used at proper intervals (3-5k) miles, I seriously doubt they are at any more risk of failure. I don't have any personal experience with failures. Most of the videos I've seen of people showing failures were run way way past a reasonable change interval.
I've been using the orange can o death for decades, never had any oil related issues. Had one car go 293K, another at 298K still with us, another at 222K and another at 188K and they all ran/run like new.
In 79 , a friend and I were both apprenticing as mechanics , him at a Chrysler dealer . They had a car come in with a blown engine, and the mechanic diagnosed it as a problem with the fram filter. The fram rep came in and picked up the filter and shook it. The filter made a " clunk " sound , he walked to the service counter and wrote " warranty, covered by fram " That was good , but the fact that he didn't even need to check inside the filter tells me that he knew exactly what was wrong with it , and fram had a issue
@@outinthesticks1035 The only story I have heard personally is my father-in-law. He changed the oil on a Ford tractor and used a Wix filter. Not long after startup he noticed noise and realized it lost oil pressure. He is very knowledgeable and rebuilds his own equipment engines over the years. Some guy came by and helped him try to diagnose it and they fiddled with it until one of them decided to take the oil filter off. Insides completely collapsed. Again, a WiX. he replaced it with another WIX he had, and it didn't have any more issues. This is just a story he told me I wasn't there to see it first-hand. But he still uses Wix to this day just because they are great filters. The fram debate reminds of me the old quaker state stories. Every old timer I ever met has filled me with stories how they have sludged up everything under the sun. But a lot of them would buy the green top oil instead of the red top because it was cheaper. But that was non detergent. From what I understand they were in identical cans only noticeable difference was the tops of the can. Everyone has horror stories. I just believe for the most part if you treat the 3 dollar oil filter like a 3 dollar oil filter and run it 3k miles instead of 10k...you will be fine.
@@outinthesticks1035 mistakes happen, it's how it's handled that shows character. Apparently they had a lot of character and took ownership of the problem. No one does that any more.
I drive a 26 year old Cutlass and a 37 year old Dakota. Always used Fram High Mileage filters, Supertech synthetic or a synthetic blend with a quart Lucas oil stabilizer. I change my oil every 10,000-12,000 miles. I pour in a small bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and run it a couple days before I change my oil. Saves a lot of money, and time. Never had any engine issues. Both vehicles are nearing 300,000 miles and run very well.
I'd still won't trust it as you should truly change the oil filter every 2 - 3 oil changes. Along with a new air filter and spark plugs if they need replacement.
Back in the 80s I was doing fleet work and recalling the Fram filters were always 20 microns so guessing they were the same in the 70s as well. Also recalling some of the other so called "fleet service" filters were 30 - 40 microns, with the idea that they didn't clog up as soon. They were also cheaper. Have often wondered how bad / neglected an engine has to be for a filter to actually clog. Since we did oil sampling at each change, we never found out. (always good samples)
That 45yr old filter is probably still in production today and sold as the Tough Guard or Ultra Guard. Would be interesting to see it compared to the “higher” products.
Great job, Pete and Thanks Chuck for sharing. I didn't care for Fram back in 1979 and I see things haven't improved much since. i do like the combination bypass and ADB valve. That's a pretty clever design. And I do nor like the bypass stuck in the leaf spring, I think that is the ultimate in cheap sloppy design, Nice to know you can still get a filter for your DeSoto or Rambler though.,
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k Got even worse in the early 80's when counterfeits were coming in. You'd shake them and they'd actually clink. What did Allied do? What they did best, nothing.
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k Yea like it is a life or death struggle. I don't get it either. It's a filter, get over it. I use Boss filters, if they start to go down the tubes, I'll find something else.
Always used Fram until my new '96 Ford F-150 with a 300 cu. six. Got a cold start rod knock after 6 months, brought it to the dealer, and the Ford factory rep told me the problem was the Fram filter (FL1A) seems the filter drains empty when the engines off, so you start the engine with no oil pressure. The filter screws on the side of the block, not like most engines that mount facing up. Switched to Puralator and the problem went away. Two people I know had the same problem, so it wasn't just my one filter defective.
Old filter $0.49 cents. New filter $4.85. Family size bag of chip new, 13 chips. Old bag, 38. Shop towels paper 10" X 10". Old shop towels paper 12" X 14. Both boxes, same brand, 100 towels. Oil filters, old more filter media W/Larger by-pass valve. Automatic pleating machine, robotic sealant applicator, thinner can, lower burst pressure! Yah! Who wins?
I ran the PH8A in my nissan hardbody 4cyl 86.5 .. fits perfect and you get double the filtration, always changed at 3-3.5k and she was a flawless engine ...
Oil has gotten a lot better than it was back then so they can get away with less ... That said millions of Fram filters in use if they were "destroying engines" like some on here claim they wouldn't be in business. They are engineered as cheap as possible to do the job. That's it but they do they job. I personally don't use them because I can spend $5 more and get a Wix or Napa Gold, $2 more for a filter like the Wix Made Microguard or even $1 less and get a super tech that is better. There's no reason to buy a Fram Extra Guard.
This is the filter for my 1980 F100 302 CID V8. I went out to my garage to get a similar vintage Fram that was in a box full of old stuff I bought at a yard sale. Mine has a little less cellophane on the packaging box, with 1980's vehicles listed. I was wondering if it would still be safe to use? I mean, is the filter paper dry rotted to where it would break down and circulate particals of itself throughout the engine?
You can use Fram in any normal capacity like any other oil filter. Just can’t push high performance oil flow through them and can’t push the mileage on them. My dad ran Fram through to the late 00s. We never had an engine issue. Literally just need to do what?… Change the oil regularly and religiously!
The biggest problem with the old Fram filters was the cheesy anti drain back the you ironically like. The leaked and caused startup knock after 3-4,000 miles. Happened twice on an 87 Mazda I had. Caused me to start cutting open filters. Fram was the only one using the thin rubber and spring configuration. To this day I still won’t buy Fram even though they now have a silicone valve!
I don't like the old filter spacing. My dad used fram filter his whole life and changed his oil and filter every 3000 miles a d never had a problem. I use fram but I use the XG and I have cut then open and they are a very good filters. Thanks for tge video.
Agree, the media of the old filter appears much higher quality, I can see daylight through the thin spots of the new filter so I think particles will pass through more easily.
44 years of doing my own oil changes. Never had any issues with Fram oil filters in all those years. Not my first choice but not the worst filters I have used.
Interesting to see how the construction changed over the years. They do seem fine running 3500 mi oil changes with store branded oil never had an engine failure in 25 years.
Makes me wonder if they are selling the more pletes and bigger media as their max filter. But I wanted to guess closer to 1980 as usually took them a year to list the applications and the FL1A was a new for 1979 release (D9AZ) means D9=1979 was year it came out, originally for a A body car (if I remember LTD) and Z means it’s a service part if I remember my Ford coding
Lee, Fram, Purolator and Hastings.... Those were the main brands when I was a younger. Then I remember STP starting the filter wars. As best I recall, they started advertising that their filter was better and then everyone started chiming in and making upscale filters. To be fair, the owner's manual in my 1966 Olds suggested that the oil be changed every 2000 miles or 30 days. I think the filter should be changed every other oil change. With that many oil changes, folks weren't looking for more expensive filters that lasted longer or filtered better.
I don't think that someone from Pennsylvania sent this filter. "Indiana Wrencher" swapped it from an oil filter shrine that set off an alarm, poison darts, a giant killer ball bearing as well as a mini earthquake. Glad that WCW survived! Yes, I'm crazy. 😱
Thanks for the old new comparison. I used a whole lot of these old ones back when I owned a 1972 and a 1975 Mercury Capri. Then I did not know they had fiber end caps. So i never had a reason to suspect there might be an issue with possible separation of the pleats from the end caps. So as far as I know, they worked.
Thanks for an informative video, greetings from Denmark (Europe). Things were made better in the past, the best we can do is to only buy reputable brands. And the most important thing is NEVER BUY SOMETHING MADE IN CHINA, buy only American or European produced and you will get quality.
The fram synthetic endurance is WAYYY better, it is worth the extra money for sure. It collects smaller particles down to like 6 microns and it has been tested to be on par or better than expensive WIX and amsoil filters. for half the price! The only situation it loses in is some high rpm engines that need to maintain higher gpm oil throughput but for regular cars and small trucks it is worth every penny.
Back in the day....FRAM was built in Rhode Island, Lawn Boy in Louisiana, Hoover/Maytag in Ohio. Many brands were American made and held up for decades and not a few years.
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When you see a box which says "Made in USA", it usually means the box was made in the USA and the contents in China or Mexico.
My biggest concern between the two was the holes in the new one seem inadequate to pass enough oil? Evidently it isn't causing great pressure problems or people would know for sure but it looks pretty limited.
these filters get a bad wrap.but i've known engines that never had anything else to last 180k.its more about changing the oil regularly than using the perfect filter.i prefer frams upper end filters myself.MUCH better built.those who complain usually buy the cheapest product on the shelf.then its THEIR fault.
That's correct event though the new one has an apparent better design the filter media is not as good quality as the old one. Again, back on the days things were realative speaking better than today because of the mass production.
To be fair, cars 45 years ago needed more filter media. they ran dirtier and the oil sludged up sooner. Change your oil regularly and the cheap new Fram will work okay.
Stopped utilizing fram a few years back. Not sure why, but, I did have a motor go South prematurely that had nothing but frams on it during it's life. When I tore it down for the rebuild I was saddened by the damage I saw do to lubrication issues. I changed the oil I was a fan of also. Later found out both companies had been bought out and changed management. Great video.
One thing that was interesting was that Datsuns often took a PH8A or equivalent. I think they did that so that American drivers would have an easy time changing oil and filters. Around the time they wrote Nissan on everything they sold in the USA, they made their own size filter. I don't know why the filter did not mention it, there were plenty of Datsun 510 cars and 720 trucks around then. It may have been neat to buy the OEM filters back then. I saw a cutaway of a Nissan 300ZXTT filter, and it was extra heavy. I used to have a car that took a cartridge filter. It was a 2003 Saturn ION. Although cartridge filters had their annoyances, I loved that the filter companies could not put cardboard junk at the ends. Although I bought filters from several American companies, the filters came from various parts of Europe for years. In the last few years the the Pepboys Proline was made in the USA. It was also the cheapest I ever got filters for that car. I am guessing that the filter media is skinny because they could make one unit and put it in different cans. The PH8A replaces a Motorcraft FL1A. A Motorcraft FL400 is about the same length, but much thinner.
@@RandyMUNSOn-fe2tb I see. I remember that those two were options on the B5 VW Passat 1.8T. They went with the bigger filter because the B5 Passat had a tiny oil capacity and sometimes a sludge problem.
The Datsun 510 cars were great tough economy cars! We used one for several years as a motor route paper carrier. Much better cars than the Chevette or Monza!! Our paper company had all both. Always preferred the Datsun 510 with a 4 speed manual over any GM economy car of the time.
Neither of them looks very impressive to me. In this case, not sure the microscopic view tells the whole story. No doubt old media 100% cellulose surface media vs a cellulose synthetic blended media for new. The old more opaque than new, but because of synthetic fibers in new, less opaque and less media needed to do a similar job. Anyway, not big fan of fiber endcaps, so I wouldn't choose either. Thanks for the vid.
As soon as I saw the old filter, I said, "That looks like it came from K-Mart in 1978." When you said 1979, I was actually surprised that I got that close. LOL
I have a similar knack when it comes to wheels and the trim for cars. " hey that looks it belong to a '74 firebird" the owner was flabbergasted" Why yes, its from a 1973 455 firebird I swapped out because its cast iron" I honestly have no idea why they'd make a wheel out of cast iron, same material as your typical kitchen cast iron skillet at that! and i flaout picked out a 1967 corvette ring and center hub set of 4 for my father when he was looking for replacement. Just like that. While we are on the similar topic. there is people out there that collect hubcaps and such and they are quite collectable .
@@gentlemanzackp6591 Yeah, I bought a '55 Chevy 210 that had some random hubcaps on it. I thought they looked like something off a mid 70s LTD or something... I was close. They came off an early 70s Ranchero. LOL
No doubt they have been shrinking the filter gradually over the years. I’m glad you could jump back 45 years and see the cumulative cheapening of those things.When i said shrinking i mean the filter material not the outer shell.
I quit using Fram a couple of years ago, I don’t know any body that uses Fram any longer .
At least they have not shrunken as much as the Big Mac.
@@tommywilson4548what kind do you use now?
Go with Mobile 1
I usually use oem ones but if I can’t I use Mobil one sometimes stp
Thirty-plus-a-few years ago I owned a 1979 Pinto station wagon with that 2.3 L I-4 engine. Bought it with a PH8A installed and always used the same. I used that car as a commuter, a camper, a pickup and a jeep. I sold it with over 200K miles on it and it ran like a champ. The new owner didn't seem to care that the doors sagged so bad you had to pick them up to close them. 😆
Okay but then you had to put up with sagging doors yourself, why wouldn't you have just adjusted them? It's only a few bolts and a shim if needed.
Bought one of those pinto station wagons for my friend's father not such a great motor
I almost hate to say it, but a Chevy chevette was a car you could not kill lol. The whole car would be rattling and falling apart but it would never fail to start, run, and go almost anywhere. Ford escorts same. Junk cars that refused to die. Lol. God bless.
Most Ford's used the same filter back in the day. And it's a PH8A for frame and 3313 if it was a fleetguard filter
"This cat says 1979 was 45 years ago! Can you believe....."
(Checks drivers license...born in 1973, just celebrated 51st birthday)
"Son of a bitch.....I really am getting old"
Don't remind me please (51 also) 🤦
20 years ago was the 1980s, right?
I'm 21 years old.
And in January, I celebrated the 37th anniversary of my turning 21; See how that works-?
born 1960 - it sucks getting old
@@ronblack7870 Me too.
I've always wanted to see inside an older oil filter! It was very nice of Chuck to send it out to you!
It sure was👍
Eyyy.
Brings back great memories. This is what I used on my 1969 Road Runner 440 Super Commando...
Very cool!
PH43
Had a '69 GTX Road Runner in the '70s 440 6pack headers, 4speed. Dana 60 positraction Toooo damn fast. It would break loose in 2nd gear and fish tail smoking tires. Good memories. God bless.
Thank you for showing us another good example of Shrinkflation! If there was any doubt, here is the proof.
Great video! 👍
You're Welcome, Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks👍
Meh, not so much, because the odds are that the money the filter cost in '79, would be worth more today than the filter he just bought. Just sayin', it's well known that you buy a standard Fram when cost is of utmost importance, NOT to get the best filter available for (most) engines.
@@stinkycheese804 Just because a filter costs more money doesn't mean it's better quality
As a parts man in my youth, sold thousands of these. No failures or returns.
I've been doing this for 40+years. Sold them all. Every year, every week, unknowing customers, shops, etc, have had a hard on for Fram filters. I have personally been to their manufacturing plant, as well as Purolator and Donaldson. The PH8A is always the one filter competition takes apart. Rather than being mere parts swappers, understand the product and how and why it was created. They are all engineered for certain variables and there's a huge file for each and everyone. Rather than doing a thesis, I will give a quick example about the PH8A filter. The amount of pleats,the media material and bypass valves were designed by engineers to, listen closely, when clogged,to bypass and send dirty oil,which is better than no oil,back into the engine. This is what Ford and Chrysler designed the first spin on filters to do, because early cars either had no filter or used a drop in cartridge filter. OEM engineers found that most people didn't know to even change their oil, as if they had service work done, it was done along other work. OEM's found too many warranty issues along the way, and loss of oil pressure due to dirty oil and the wear that came with it, found that they had to get the customers to change out the oil. First type of filters were a novelty at best, and for a few years, still customers didn't change their oil; old habits die hard. So, the OEM's built and engineered the filters to a fail-safe standard. The pleats were limited in size and amount. Less pleats, allowed for more oil flow, and less pressure on the media, so the oil would bypass the filter when clogged, and continue to circulate. This was true of all "a" suffix filters, as Motorcraft was FL1A filter, which were made by Autolite, a future Bendix company, who made Fram. Filters have to perform, regardless who makes it. They are designed and made to the OEM standards,because if companies made subpar filters, they'd be paying out millions of dollars for warranty claims, which a $3.00 filter,back then, would be a huge financial mistake, bankrupting many companies along the way. I have used,sold and feel proud to recommend Fram filters. Research and understand how and why things do what they do, before you spout false information.
I've seen 3 failed Fram fuel filters that didn't have a hole to allow fuel to flow. Returned zero. And since no one in the history of the world has ever returned an oil filter.... well. What kind of logic chain is this?
They didn't return failed oil filters because the engine was blown so the oil filter was the least of their worries. I'll keep to my Wix. Every company I've ever worked for, and I'm 54 used only wix filters on all equipment. God bless y'all.
It always pains me to see the new Fram filters. My dad retired from Fram after 45 years. He started there when was very small in Pawtucket, RI. They grew and moved to E. Providence/Rumford where the Main plant, HQ and Engineering was. He met my mother there. My brothers and I both worked there. When Bendix screwed up and Allied Signal Took over they forced us to use their media and was garbage. They forced us to pay them for buying us and forced retirements. It then went to Honeywell and do not know or care where now. I left in '84 as the writing was on the wall and my Dad retired too. Very sad it was a very good company and people.
Yep, a lot of companies are gone or not like they used to be. Thanks for sharing your story👍
@@WhipCityWrencher GE appliances are a good example of how quality has declined over the last 10 or 12 years.We used to use glass top ranges in a triplex`s apt.s .Now the quality of the GE glass top ranges are so bad you`re lucky to get 2 years out of the range before very difficult to repair top breaks. The old glass top ranges had an oven heat vent in rear of range. The new ones have none! Maybe that`s why the new glass top ranges keep breaking? No way to vent hot oven air so weakens glass over time. We would rather use the old Fram filter even with the little bit of rust over the new one.
Thanks, for commenting….had lots of FRAM availability in Northern Indiana : remembering 1979s-2000…have …
@@frederickbooth7970 GE is not GE any longer. It's owned by the giant Chinese conglomerate called Haier. Makes the hair on the back of your neck stand up just thinking about it. But then our president is also made in China now, too.
@@WhipCityWrencher what is the best oil filter/company you have found so far? WIX I have always been told are the best. 🤷🏻♂️
I was in high school in 1979, mostly in the Automotive building where it was Pennzoil oil and Fram filters.
I've used this combination in my American vehicles with cast iron engines without any major mechanical engine failures.
(Since 2016 for me, it's synthetic oils and synthetic oil filters.)
I was a production technician working for Fram Corporation in the early to late 70's. Fram was an awesome company to work for, and the quality of their filters were the best.
Cool! Thanks for sharing👍
Need to watch good reputable tests available for the consumer. Maybe they are a good company to work for, but for quality filters, they just don't rate
@@artbrookey3468 did you miss the "back in the 1970s"? Fram used to make the best, used to. A bit like Rubbermaid, they were the best.
@@artbrookey3468 Fram had the best filters,re-read his comment he worked their in the 1970's...FRAM had the best filters even in the 1990's,the last 24 years they went down in quality...
Still pretty good.
I like the older one. I did used to use that one back in the day and honestly never had not one issue. But I quit using fram yrs ago. Great video.
Thank You👍
I used Fram filters….. exclusively for decades…. never had any problems….
now….. I trust Wix
What brand filter do you use now?
@@robert5 Primarily wix
I remember the PH8A as my dad’s 1972 Plymouth Satellite 318 took it. What a bullet proof engine! My sister had a Dodge Dart around the same time and it had the slant six, also bullet proof! Mopar made some good power plants back then.
Thanks for Sharing👍
My 72 Ford 302 ran well albeit a little lacking in torque but it was totally stock. Dodge and AMC I am told were very durable.
I just had a brand new Fram filter fail on me. My mechanic says "A lot of old guys still buy these because they remember when the quality was good." Thanks, buddy.
Thanks for sharing👍
Frams aren’t bad filters. I’ve used them all over many years along with Motorcraft, AC Delco, Wix, and other filters. The main thing that destroys engines is lack of maintenance. Keep your automobile on a service schedule.
Fram back in the day was good, what soured me on them is they don’t roll the seams as well and they would leak on the seams in the 1990s. If we could remove the grip media from new one, you could tell metal is definitely lighter weight and crushes way easier imo
I love this video. I think the deformation and uneven spacing of the filter media on Old Filter shows exactly what the rusty baseplate shows. Moisture.
Correct. You can still find old filters with no rust.
I've never in my 68 years bought any filter other than Fram. Never had a filter related failure. But I must say, the old one appears to have been made better. Too bad you didn't have the filtration specs on the filter element paper.
I use the more premium frams, they are a perfectly fine filter.
I ran a FRAM PH8A oil filters on my ‘86 F-250 5 liter gas motor (changed every 3000 miles) for 300,000 miles for 23 years and never had a problem. I think folks over think too many things these days (IMO). 👍
I owned a 68 Ford LTD and used this filter exclusively. Never had issues.
I had one as well. God I miss that car even now. Of course it was only 15 years old when I bought it.
I was in the parts business for many many years. Sold thousands of Fram filters. Never got one back! Say what you will, they were fine filters. We cut up one of each of all the major brands many years ago. Most any of the name brands were fine. The 'cheap' brands were made by the same companies, but to the seller's specs. Most all of the filters were made by just a few manufacturers. Remember, when cars first came out, they did not have filters! ;)
I’ve brought Fram back. Only use Wix now. Do some research and you wouldn’t use a Fram. Not the place to save money.
I had a 87 d150 with a 318. Bought it with 129000 on in. That night did an oil change notcied that it had same threads as our 84 f150 and grabbed an ph8a off shelf. Used fram till stopped drivin the truck with over 500000 on stock engine. Changed oil every 2000 miles. Went through 2 timin chains 1st at 150000 2nd at almost 500000. Never had an issue with the fram.
Thanks for Sharing
When I was farming in the 70s, every car, pickup truck and grain truck I owned were either Ford or International Harvester. PH8A fit them all, I had shelves and shelves of them. They were cheaper than the FL1A Motorcraft and since I was just getting started in farming I was pinching my penny’s. I never had a single issue with Fram, but about 10 years ago I went to the auto parts to get Fram filters and they told me they were all recalled. I have been using Wix ever since.
Thanks for Sharing👍
Did you say you were farming or framing in the 70's?
@@aday1637 every framer needs a grain truck
@@outinthesticks1035 and every farmer needs a framer
When I worked for Ford we had three filters: FL-1A, FL-300 and FL-400
I just looked it up on that 79 Fram filter is said it's a Bendix Company, Sadly they went out of business in 1983.
My first car was a 79 Mercury bobcat 2.3!!!!!
I got to dig up some old filters from our garage!!!!
Funny, the old design is much more advanced and more Durable than the modern one!!!
Pretty much like everything else. The old stuff was better.
How do you know that???
Cost reduced- making$$ is the objective…
@@ChrisPatrick-q6kyes factory oil filters for my wife’s rav4 are under $8 US, why would I by aftermarket.
As a Harley Davidson technician I seen many times where dude spend $30k to $40k on a bike then cheap out on an oil filter that saved him $5. Maintenance is cheap. Do it right.
@@michaelschubel6330 YEP
Great video WhipCityWrencher wow 1979 I was no where near close of being alive. Thanks for thank us to the past
You're Welcome WrenchingMafia and Thanks👍
Great quality, well made, unbiased with a good sense of humour. I'm obviously referring to Whip's reviews, not these filters! 😊
Thank You😊
Very Well Done Sir!
I’ve been dissecting oil filters for years, starting with my Dad with our motorcycles 35 years ago. It’s amazing what you can learn from a vehicle doing this “especially with a bike engine that shares its engine oil with the transmission and clutch”!
It’s unbelievable how many visible metal particles are suspended in in the filter media of a bike compared to a car. It would give a person a heart attack if it was their first time seeing it!
Thank You👍
Thanks for donating this one, Chuck!
My dad worked for fram for 35 years my brother worked there for 15 and i worked there for 7 years we maid these very filters
My brother actually ran the paper oven. I asembled them before the paint both in what was known as the ph line.
Cool! That must have been an interesting job, Thanks for Sharing👍
My first car was a 1992 ford E350 with 200,000 miles on it the previous owner used the fram ph8a and I carried on using it too. I believe it worked, changed the oil every 3,000 miles, ran fine, lasted long time.
I had a 1990 E-350 with a 300ci (4.9l) changed the oil every 3k with mobile-1 and a FL1A. The thing that gave up was the wiring and body rusted out with central Kentucky road salt. Motor burned no oil and kept mains and other gaskets in it to prevent leaks. Had 395k on it before getting a new truck in 2017. Also worth mentioning the van was free at 144k due to a crap mechanic in Naples FL telling owner motor had no compression on 1,2 the oem copper core plugs were stuck in the head with the straps burn off. New plugs, cap ,rotor and fuel injector service it was idling smooth. Motor mounts were a issue until I burnt off rubber in a old coffee can and welded plates together. Still smooth. Old motors were much easier to work on.
old PH8A Ftw ! ✅ i Changed alot of those filters back in the 70'80's.
Real Common filter for V8 in a Truck.
also used in after market external oil filter setups.
I'm 72, been using Fram's PH 11 for Chevy trucks for many yrs, Haven't had any problems.
🇺🇸😎
Thats great but now that you know better will you continue to use that junk?
@@homerfry9234Don't know, don't change my on oil anymore. ( To hard on the ol legs here) But over the yrs, didn't have any problems. Use K&Ns filter on my Harleys. 🇺🇸😎
@@gabbyhayes4561 So answer the question, now that you know Fram is low quality would you continue to use it?
@@homerfry9234 It wasn't a low in quality product 20,30 odd yrs ago. Don't change my on oil anymore. Can't say if I would or not?🇺🇸😎
@@gabbyhayes4561 No, it was a lower quality item then as it is now. So because you used it for 30 years and now know its low quality you would still install it? C'mon man thats not tkinking straight.
Great Video, I also a worked at a Parts Counter back in the 1970's. We sold Fram & Wix. Brings back memories!
Thank you,
FreddieB (MA)
😊
You're Welcome Freddie, Thanks👍
So nice of Chuck! The old filter looks so good! So much more filter media, and more absorbent, too! Thanks for sharing another great video! Always like to view old filters, and how they compare to filters made nowadays. Indeed, this is an interesting video! 👍
Hi Ella,
Thanks!😊👍
@@WhipCityWrencher 😊👍
Excellent sharing Pete 😊. Enjoy your Memorial weekend!
Hi Merri
Thank You👍
You will have to go back further than that. I already thought that Fram filters were crap back in the 70's. Back then I used Purolator filters. The old Fram is still way better than the new one though.
Dad bought the family a Bobcat back in the 80's, and four pintos too. No kidding, we had five of them in the driveway at one time and they were all being driven.
😊
@garettanderson6772 and here I thought my family was weird for having three Maverick sedans....
@@rickd650 Yeah weird is an understatement. They were dirt cheap, easy to work on, and my brothers and I were all turning driving age. So he started going to state surplus auctions and buying the cheapest running cars he could find. They were Pintos, and as much as I hated them back then (I love them today), they were really good cars for teenagers.
@@garettanderson6772 Mavericks were inexpensive and easy to work on as well. All ours had the 250 straight six, which was about as bulletproof as they come. Ours were all blue. Light blue, dark blue, and mine was an LDO (luxury decor option) that was light blue with a dark blue vinyl top. Made giving directions to our house real easy, if nothing else.
In the 70s and 80s, my folks had only Fords. I had both Fords and Mopars. They ALL used a PH8A. I still have half a dozen in my garage from the late 80s. But now I have 3 Chevies!
8A is the size I use on my Datsun 280Z so that immediately caught my attention as that’s a size I still buy. Fun fact: Brownsville PA is home to the first all metal bridge in America. Still standing and still in use opened in 1839
Cool👍 Thanks for Sharing😊
is it safe to use such old filter? I have some Honda OE filters from the early 90s, no rust but I’m afraid to use them.
Personally, I wouldn't use a filter that is this old. Who knows if the filter media will hold up after sitting for so many years.
@@WhipCityWrencher thank you for your feedback.
@@HiFiInsider 👍
The old Fram filter center tube would probably make a great cheese 🧀 grater too 😂
Ha Ha😊
Good to know just in case.
MAGA - Make America
Grate Again, use Fram Cores......Vote
2024 GOP GRAVEYARD
I was made in 1979 too. Old is gold. I think these filters work on the 5.0 ford engines too. I know I have bought many PH8A filters in my short time on earth.
That white residue on the gasket is mold release. I used a BUNCH of those old PH8A's back then until maybe the early '90's. They were fine. I used Wix and Lee and Purolator then too. Depended on what the store had. Fram was mostly a 'discount department store' filter. Most of the 'pro' auto parts stores carried other brands. Fram used to be a better filter until they sacrificed production quality to get market saturation, kind of like Wix now. Fram has seemingly recovered from the last few decades and is making better products.
Fram has a lot of work to do to recover their reputation.
Been using Fram filters and Valvoline oil for as long as I’ve been driving (over 40 years). Never had an oil issue unless it was a leak. Always changed the oil between 3000-5000 miles (or 3-4 months)
Back when you could do a full tuneup and oil change for roughly $20. And most of the parts were available in Kmart auto department
Thanks for Sharing👍
I sold lots of PF2 AC Delco filters back in the 70s as the go to filter for many Chevy and Fords which interchange with the Fram PH8A
I meant Fords and Chrysler Dodge and Plymouth
the Fram PH8 from Mexico is cataloged as Fram HP1 race
To me, the takeaway is that FRAM was never the tops, but it's worse now.
(I was discouraged from using FRAM filters as a new driver. These types of videos prove why.)
It's amazing how much they've changed their quality over the years, but I guess that's not so uncommon.
Anyway, thanks for doing this 👍👍👍
You're Welcome, Thanks👍
I don't know why people hate FRAM filters so much. I've used them for decades on numerous vehicles without any oil filtration issue.
They meet minimum OEM standards. I used them for 20 years myself. But I have seen quite a few oil filter autopsies recently where the felt end caps & filter paper just crumbled when touched. Granted, these were filters with 10k plus miles on them.
Same here. Many decades of use with same results. Yep, I bet there are better filters out there but not worth my time to argue.
Same. I've used Fram for over 30 yrs with no issues.
In my case, I can buy Federated Auto Parts brand filters for a lower price than Fram.... so it's a value thing. Feds filters are made better IMHO.
They may meet OEM minimum standards...i just buy the oem fikter@@donwyoming1936
Ph8a, thats what my roadrunner used, brings back memories
One thing often overlooked is the differential pressures on each side of the media. Efficiently filtering is important also
I've been to the Wix's plant in Dillon S.C. they make about every oil filter you can buy and watching them make those filters. They are exactly the same process .BUT, the difference is that better filters have more paper and thicker paper . There for you get what you pay for.
One question about the filter media - it does look like the old one may filter more. But is it possible it cause more bypassing? My understanding is filters go into bypass more than generally thought, probably several times when the engine is running and experiencing various acceleration and deceleration. I still use Fram Tough Guard on my 05 ranger with 180k miles on it, and it runs like a top. And even TGs have the "cardboard" endcaps. Do I think these Extra Guards are usable? Yes, however, probably for around the same price there's better built filter available, even if for all practical intents and purposes, the only real difference is the other fulter being "built better".
Back in the 80s up thru 2000s, i used Fram Filters. Then there was some comparisons and the Purolator One (PL20195) as on top for the price. They were as available as the Frams PH8A filters were. I now add Remote Filters to most of my cars which use the same PH8A (PL20195) filters I've used forever. These even work for my Mowers and 2.0 Fords same thread/size and adds half a quart or more oil per change with bigger filter cans vs the stock half sized junk. My 2016 Mustang & Ford Focuses & 1991 F150 as well as the mowers all 1 filter now 😆 😂😂 should buy them by dozen :)😊
Everyone hates on fram but when used at proper intervals (3-5k) miles, I seriously doubt they are at any more risk of failure. I don't have any personal experience with failures. Most of the videos I've seen of people showing failures were run way way past a reasonable change interval.
That's probably a valid point. If you don't make a weak product work hard, it won't create a problem.
I've been using the orange can o death for decades, never had any oil related issues. Had one car go 293K, another at 298K still with us, another at 222K and another at 188K and they all ran/run like new.
In 79 , a friend and I were both apprenticing as mechanics , him at a Chrysler dealer . They had a car come in with a blown engine, and the mechanic diagnosed it as a problem with the fram filter. The fram rep came in and picked up the filter and shook it. The filter made a " clunk " sound , he walked to the service counter and wrote " warranty, covered by fram "
That was good , but the fact that he didn't even need to check inside the filter tells me that he knew exactly what was wrong with it , and fram had a issue
@@outinthesticks1035 The only story I have heard personally is my father-in-law. He changed the oil on a Ford tractor and used a Wix filter. Not long after startup he noticed noise and realized it lost oil pressure. He is very knowledgeable and rebuilds his own equipment engines over the years. Some guy came by and helped him try to diagnose it and they fiddled with it until one of them decided to take the oil filter off. Insides completely collapsed. Again, a WiX. he replaced it with another WIX he had, and it didn't have any more issues. This is just a story he told me I wasn't there to see it first-hand. But he still uses Wix to this day just because they are great filters. The fram debate reminds of me the old quaker state stories. Every old timer I ever met has filled me with stories how they have sludged up everything under the sun. But a lot of them would buy the green top oil instead of the red top because it was cheaper. But that was non detergent. From what I understand they were in identical cans only noticeable difference was the tops of the can. Everyone has horror stories. I just believe for the most part if you treat the 3 dollar oil filter like a 3 dollar oil filter and run it 3k miles instead of 10k...you will be fine.
@@outinthesticks1035 mistakes happen, it's how it's handled that shows character. Apparently they had a lot of character and took ownership of the problem. No one does that any more.
I drive a 26 year old Cutlass and a 37 year old Dakota. Always used Fram High Mileage filters, Supertech synthetic or a synthetic blend with a quart Lucas oil stabilizer. I change my oil every 10,000-12,000 miles. I pour in a small bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and run it a couple days before I change my oil. Saves a lot of money, and time. Never had any engine issues. Both vehicles are nearing 300,000 miles and run very well.
40% reduction in oil filter media material but it can last 3 x longer. It's MAGIC! The engine oil has come a long way.
I'd still won't trust it as you should truly change the oil filter every 2 - 3 oil changes. Along with a new air filter and spark plugs if they need replacement.
@@kylebeach2316Aren’t you supposed to change the engine oil filter with EVERY ENGINE OIL CHANGE?????????!!!!!!!!!
Back in the 80s I was doing fleet work and recalling the Fram filters were always 20 microns so guessing they were the same in the 70s as well. Also recalling some of the other so called "fleet service" filters were 30 - 40 microns, with the idea that they didn't clog up as soon. They were also cheaper. Have often wondered how bad / neglected an engine has to be for a filter to actually clog. Since we did oil sampling at each change, we never found out. (always good samples)
That 45yr old filter is probably still in production today and sold as the Tough Guard or Ultra Guard. Would be interesting to see it compared to the “higher” products.
Great job, Pete and Thanks Chuck for sharing. I didn't care for Fram back in 1979 and I see things haven't improved much since. i do like the combination bypass and ADB valve. That's a pretty clever design. And I do nor like the bypass stuck in the leaf spring, I think that is the ultimate in cheap sloppy design,
Nice to know you can still get a filter for your DeSoto or Rambler though.,
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k Got even worse in the early 80's when counterfeits were coming in. You'd shake them and they'd actually clink. What did Allied do? What they did best, nothing.
@@jamescaron6465 Just a cheap brand that people for some reason constantly make excuses for.
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k Yea like it is a life or death struggle. I don't get it either. It's a filter, get over it. I use Boss filters, if they start to go down the tubes, I'll find something else.
Thanks, Jim👍
@@WhipCityWrencheranytime Pete!
Always used Fram until my new '96 Ford F-150 with a 300 cu. six. Got a cold start rod knock after 6 months, brought it to the dealer, and the Ford factory rep told me the problem was the Fram filter (FL1A) seems the filter drains empty when the engines off, so you start the engine with no oil pressure. The filter screws on the side of the block, not like most engines that mount facing up. Switched to Puralator and the problem went away. Two people I know had the same problem, so it wasn't just my one filter defective.
Thanks for Sharing👍
Really enjoy your videos.
Thank You😊👍
I had a 1979 Ford Thunderbird with a 351 Windsor and that is the oil filter I used FRAM PH8A it fit most of Fords V8's.
Old filter $0.49 cents. New filter $4.85. Family size bag of chip new, 13 chips. Old bag, 38. Shop towels paper 10" X 10". Old shop towels paper 12" X 14. Both boxes, same brand, 100 towels. Oil filters, old more filter media W/Larger by-pass valve. Automatic pleating machine, robotic sealant applicator, thinner can, lower burst pressure! Yah! Who wins?
Cereal boxes half full.
I ran the PH8A in my nissan hardbody 4cyl 86.5 .. fits perfect and you get double the filtration, always changed at 3-3.5k and she was a flawless engine ...
Oil has gotten a lot better than it was back then so they can get away with less ... That said millions of Fram filters in use if they were "destroying engines" like some on here claim they wouldn't be in business. They are engineered as cheap as possible to do the job. That's it but they do they job. I personally don't use them because I can spend $5 more and get a Wix or Napa Gold, $2 more for a filter like the Wix Made Microguard or even $1 less and get a super tech that is better. There's no reason to buy a Fram Extra Guard.
This is the filter for my 1980 F100 302 CID V8. I went out to my garage to get a similar vintage Fram that was in a box full of old stuff I bought at a yard sale. Mine has a little less cellophane on the packaging box, with 1980's vehicles listed. I was wondering if it would still be safe to use? I mean, is the filter paper dry rotted to where it would break down and circulate particals of itself throughout the engine?
I wouldn't use it, one never knows how the rubber, glue, and media will hold up. Plus probably some rust in there as well.
@@WhipCityWrencher Thanks.
You can use Fram in any normal capacity like any other oil filter. Just can’t push high performance oil flow through them and can’t push the mileage on them.
My dad ran Fram through to the late 00s. We never had an engine issue. Literally just need to do what?… Change the oil regularly and religiously!
The biggest problem with the old Fram filters was the cheesy anti drain back the you ironically like. The leaked and caused startup knock after 3-4,000 miles. Happened twice on an 87 Mazda I had. Caused me to start cutting open filters. Fram was the only one using the thin rubber and spring configuration. To this day I still won’t buy Fram even though they now have a silicone valve!
I like the base-end bypass valves but I'm not particularly fond of the one on this Fram oil filter.
I don't like the old filter spacing. My dad used fram filter his whole life and changed his oil and filter every 3000 miles a d never had a problem. I use fram but I use the XG and I have cut then open and they are a very good filters. Thanks for tge video.
I use Fram oil and fram filters from
Advanced and change every 5k. My Pontiac has 240 thousand miles on it. I won’t use anything other than Fram ❤️
Agree, the media of the old filter appears much higher quality, I can see daylight through the thin spots of the new filter so I think particles will pass through more easily.
Remember the old tag line? "You can pay me now or you can pay me later..."
😊
44 years of doing my own oil changes. Never had any issues with Fram oil filters in all those years. Not my first choice but not the worst filters I have used.
Older stuff is always better. Including older generation of humans.
😊
Interesting to see how the construction changed over the years. They do seem fine running 3500 mi oil changes with store branded oil never had an engine failure in 25 years.
Makes me wonder if they are selling the more pletes and bigger media as their max filter.
But I wanted to guess closer to 1980 as usually took them a year to list the applications and the FL1A was a new for 1979 release (D9AZ) means D9=1979 was year it came out, originally for a A body car (if I remember LTD) and Z means it’s a service part if I remember my Ford coding
Lee, Fram, Purolator and Hastings.... Those were the main brands when I was a younger. Then I remember STP starting the filter wars. As best I recall, they started advertising that their filter was better and then everyone started chiming in and making upscale filters.
To be fair, the owner's manual in my 1966 Olds suggested that the oil be changed every 2000 miles or 30 days. I think the filter should be changed every other oil change. With that many oil changes, folks weren't looking for more expensive filters that lasted longer or filtered better.
I knew Lee Fram too. What ever happened to him?
@@aday1637 Poor old Lee Fram fell into the Purolator at Hastings. Quite tragic. Sadly Lee is no longer with us.
Well, that certainly CLEARS THINGS UP !!!! 😂😂😂😂
I don't think that someone from Pennsylvania sent this filter. "Indiana Wrencher" swapped it from an oil filter shrine that set off an alarm, poison darts, a giant killer ball bearing as well as a mini earthquake. Glad that WCW survived! Yes, I'm crazy. 😱
That description and what I visualized happening made my day! 😂
Can't wait for the next episode.😅
I sent the filter. I am from Pennsylvania. The lady I purchased it from was also from Pennsylvania.
@@RetirednbrokeinPa I like my story better.
Thanks for the old new comparison. I used a whole lot of these old ones back when I owned a 1972 and a 1975 Mercury Capri. Then I did not know they had fiber end caps. So i never had a reason to suspect there might be an issue with possible separation of the pleats from the end caps. So as far as I know, they worked.
You're Welcome👍
Thanks for an informative video, greetings from Denmark (Europe).
Things were made better in the past, the best we can do is to only buy reputable brands.
And the most important thing is NEVER BUY SOMETHING MADE IN CHINA, buy only American or European produced and you will get quality.
Hello Denmark.
Cheers! From the USA👍
Yep
Many US-market filters are now made in Mexico.
The fram synthetic endurance is WAYYY better, it is worth the extra money for sure. It collects smaller particles down to like 6 microns and it has been tested to be on par or better than expensive WIX and amsoil filters. for half the price! The only situation it loses in is some high rpm engines that need to maintain higher gpm oil throughput but for regular cars and small trucks it is worth every penny.
Thanks!
The Fram Endurance and Amsoil oil filters are the same oil filters. Check out this video. ua-cam.com/video/eIy_5SbvJWo/v-deo.html
Back in the day....FRAM was built in Rhode Island, Lawn Boy in Louisiana, Hoover/Maytag in Ohio. Many brands were American made and held up for decades and not a few years.
When you see a box which says "Made in USA", it usually means the box was made in the USA and the contents in China or Mexico.
My biggest concern between the two was the holes in the new one seem inadequate to pass enough oil? Evidently it isn't causing great pressure problems or people would know for sure but it looks pretty limited.
these filters get a bad wrap.but i've known engines that never had anything else to last 180k.its more about changing the oil regularly than using the perfect filter.i prefer frams upper end filters myself.MUCH better built.those who complain usually buy the cheapest product on the shelf.then its THEIR fault.
I love the way Imperial and Metric units are mixed.
That's why I only understood half of it, but the Canadian guy understood the other half.
That's correct event though the new one has an apparent better design the filter media is not as good quality as the old one. Again, back on the days things were realative speaking better than today because of the mass production.
I'm like 8 miles from Brownsville PA. Nice of Chuck to send you that old new stock filter.
It sure was, Thanks👍
Great review. It's interesting to see how the OCOD got even cheaper over 45 years.
Thanks, Jeff 👍
I wonder if a fancier version of the modern one has more like the older specs or if its just branding on the same modern cheapo.
The Fram Endurance has a full synthetic filter media with a metal screen backing. Here's a video of one I did, ua-cam.com/video/eIy_5SbvJWo/v-deo.html
To be fair, cars 45 years ago needed more filter media. they ran dirtier and the oil sludged up sooner. Change your oil regularly and the cheap new Fram will work okay.
Stopped utilizing fram a few years back. Not sure why, but, I did have a motor go South prematurely that had nothing but frams on it during it's life. When I tore it down for the rebuild I was saddened by the damage I saw do to lubrication issues. I changed the oil I was a fan of also. Later found out both companies had been bought out and changed management. Great video.
Thank You and Thanks for Sharing👍
One thing that was interesting was that Datsuns often took a PH8A or equivalent. I think they did that so that American drivers would have an easy time changing oil and filters. Around the time they wrote Nissan on everything they sold in the USA, they made their own size filter. I don't know why the filter did not mention it, there were plenty of Datsun 510 cars and 720 trucks around then. It may have been neat to buy the OEM filters back then. I saw a cutaway of a Nissan 300ZXTT filter, and it was extra heavy.
I used to have a car that took a cartridge filter. It was a 2003 Saturn ION. Although cartridge filters had their annoyances, I loved that the filter companies could not put cardboard junk at the ends. Although I bought filters from several American companies, the filters came from various parts of Europe for years. In the last few years the the Pepboys Proline was made in the USA. It was also the cheapest I ever got filters for that car.
I am guessing that the filter media is skinny because they could make one unit and put it in different cans. The PH8A replaces a Motorcraft FL1A. A Motorcraft FL400 is about the same length, but much thinner.
Thanks for Sharing👍
Mann 719/30 is the same also.
@@RandyMUNSOn-fe2tb I see. I remember that those two were options on the B5 VW Passat 1.8T. They went with the bigger filter because the B5 Passat had a tiny oil capacity and sometimes a sludge problem.
The Datsun 510 cars were great tough economy cars! We used one for several years as a motor route paper carrier. Much better cars than the Chevette or Monza!! Our paper company had all both. Always preferred the Datsun 510 with a 4 speed manual over any GM economy car of the time.
@@skylinefever I found out accidentally when we had an '03 Jetta 2.0.
Neither of them looks very impressive to me. In this case, not sure the microscopic view tells the whole story. No doubt old media 100% cellulose surface media vs a cellulose synthetic blended media for new. The old more opaque than new, but because of synthetic fibers in new, less opaque and less media needed to do a similar job. Anyway, not big fan of fiber endcaps, so I wouldn't choose either. Thanks for the vid.
You're Welcome faxmen09👍
Wow! I just scored an old Fram oil filter from the 80s. Interesting that this video hit at the same time. It's a PH8A too.
We'll be waiting for your youtube video tear down.
Made in Providence RI by great workers!
👍
...by workers made in the back seat of a 57 Chevy.
10:46 that says it all Thanks I used the PH30A for my 327 Camaro back in the day LOL
Like everything built cheaper cost more
Dunno about you but my oil filters have jumped up from 4 bucks at Walmart to 12 dollars a piece within the last couple of years.
Cut corners, charge more, what a world we live in