Nice to watch you working on your Myford. That was the lathe my Dad bought for me (used machine) when I was about 14. That was back in Kenya Colony in 1964. That got me hooked onto machining. I spent countless hours on that machine. I had also subscribed to quite a few English and also American magazines on the subject. So many people were in onto this kind of hobby then. Alas nowadays I’ve watched my children and then grandchildren growing up on video games. Now they are hooked onto their smart phones. Gone are the days.
I really like the idea of the tool post cutter being on the other side. I even dreamed about it when I was imagining how to make a small DIY lathe .. cool to see what I dreamed of materialize in reality
Gday Steve, your system works very well, I think I’ll end up putting the parting tool at the back of the cross slide, thanks for sharing mate, take care, Matty
Nice job Steve, pushing the envelope of your myford to the max. One of the first jobs I am going to do when I get my milling machine in a few weeks time (oh the excitement) is make a rear parting off tool unit for my lathe...... You have just convinced me. Keep it up, enjoying the content. Jon
Hi Jon, Thanks. I would love to have a milling machine, but I haven't got the room. The upside down part-off, I found is the best method. The inserts last as they should as well. What milling machine are you getting? Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Thanks for the reply Steve, keep an eye on my channel, I haven't decided yet but I will be posting a video tomorrow night with some thoughts. I have already ordered one machine (sorry for the cloak and dagger stuff) which I will reveal in tomorrow's episode. Would welcome your feedback on any of my thoughts in the few videos I have posted so far, just trying to get the workshop and channel up and running. Thanks again, Jon.
that was exellent steve and done effortlesly on your ridgid set up. i was quite impressed with you parting off that big bar once again great video thanks steve. thumbs up.
Mike Walton is making some quite surprising progress with hss tool grinds on his channel, including parting off grind. Worth a look, as he uses the tools he makes and sells at a very reasonable price, to machine o2 and stainless steels on his 90kw unimat sl1000 with accuracy and ease. This isn’t supposed to be possible on this small machine, so I’d imagine if use as well on slightly larger lathes.
Great video. Would running it in reverse and flipping my part off tool on my compound work the same way? I don’t have that nifty upgrade for dueling tool posts. Thanks for sharing! -Joe
I like your videos , they tackle ordinary stuff for ordinary operators like me. Just one comment on your presentation. I can understand that it is difficult to do some kind of operation of any kind, film it and narrate at the same time. Some very successful Utube presenters film whatever it is they are presenting , then do a voice over. The overall effect is that the viewer receives a commentary while the operation is happening in the video, no silent pauses and no explanations after the event has actually happened.
great steve thanks for sharing your knowledge, keep showing your videos please, I would like to ask you a question how can you achieve a good finish to automatically cylinder at slow speeds? We are talking about the advance mm / revolution of the main screw and all those technical data - what combination of pinions do you use to achieve a good finish in 114 steel, for example, thanks to care.
Hi Steve, Just an update on my mini-lathe switching itself off when it liked. I traced the problem to a weak magnetic coil in the on/off switch. It was letting go of the metal plate which lifted the centre pice and held the electrical contacts together. I have a new rocker switch on order which does away with the magnetic bit and once fitted should solve the issue Paula
Hi Paula, that is great, I'm pleased you found the problem. I don't have a magnetic switch on mine now, just an ordinary push button type. Regards Steve
I have a small Atlas/Clausing and do similar to what you have done. The only difference is rather than taking it out of the lathe I place a board across my ways to protect them and finish it in place with a hacksaw.
I just had a rant with my wife about your opening sentence. "A 2 inch diameter steel bar 100 mm long." It seems that you must have the same problem with standard vs. metric in the UK like we have in the US. I wish we in the US would just pick a system! Just one! The metric system is better, but we need to pick just one. When I work on my car it will have a standard nut and a metric bolt. I hate that I just can't pick a set of tools and work on my car. Oh well, enough with the rant, LOL! Great video...
Thank your USA car manufactures for that. In 1972 (or there abouts) the US embarked on a 3 step plan to convert over to metric. We never got past step one - dual labeling. If anything that mucked things up even worse because as hard as straight imperial units were it is substantially harder to toss constantly doing conversions into the mix. Best to just rip the band-aid off and bite the bullet. But the resistance to change over won out and the battle for universal standard was lost (for now). I don't doubt that among other things this has been a signifiant contributor to the large number of anti-science Luddites here.
I'm surpriced that the Imperial using US have got as faar as it has. Look att the different units being used. There is "thou", decimal, there is fraction, letter drills, number drills..... I've got imperial collets for the mill to handle Imperial wigglers, Coax indicator, other various indicators etc. A set of Imperial hex keys is also needed, to assist my metric sets.
When you get right down to it, it's hard to make a case for any system of units over another. Perhaps a system could be based on more fundamental aspects of nature. It's not a great argument. And the meter isn't any more fundamental than a yard so you can't use that to argue for metric over imperial. I know where you're coming from because I held those views for a long time but if you study history and metrology, you would see that these topics are more utilitarian and political than factual. The Internation System is fine but it basically was spread by conquest, not popular demand. The Imperial system was spread by exploration, business, and economic forces. Before widespread trade, every country had their own way of doing thing and it was fine because almost the only argument for a particular system of units is that other people use it. The other argument is historical---my people use these units so I use these units. Here's a fun fact: in physics software, often the units aren't defined because it doesn't matter at all. Just pick a unit of weight, a unit of distance, and a unit of time. Other units can be derived from those 3 picks. So if you configure the software with a consistent set of units, the answers will automatically be in the correct units.
@@neffk I'm sorry, but I have to disagree. The metric system bases as many things as possible on fundamental units and those that aren't are based on standards which are as invariant as possible and these only change when something that's even more constant is discovered. I've often though that our time standard ought to be the blip from regular pulsars (not those that vary in period because they are orbiting something) preferably one near the north star so there's no seasonal doppler effect.
@@neffk You're perfectly right. The "meter" was for a long time defined by a holy piece of metal in Paris, France. Later a certain number of wavelengths of Cecium(?) was used. Why not Another number ? The SI-system reduces the number of specific constants for nearly every calculation. But, as You say, both systems are based on something choosen from ? How about the "letter drills" and "number drills"? I drill metric holes but watching UA-cam videos, I'm lost. Modern calipers are perfect unit converters. Put in what ever units You want and change between Metric, Imperial, or Fractions.
My first visit. Just subscribed. I had a bad time last night parting a 2” HR 1018 bar on a 1943 vintage SB 10L. Jammed several times and, thankfully, the belt slipped. I concluded that nasty old gravity was keeping the chips on top of the tool so I ended up stopping to remove chips many, many times. That worked down to about 1/2” when a chip jammed and broke the tool bit. Question/suggestion: I don’t remember you mentioning it but was the inverted tool on the machine side done to help clear the chips? I’d have to do the same or my chuck would unscrew. I had to take a few tries, in a three jaw chuck, to get the 4” long bar running fairly straight. How did you get that much longer bar straight enough to center drill? I didn’t see a steady rest. Lastly, I almost skipped the video title when it said “small lathe”. I immediately thought imported mini lathe. You might like to call it “Myford 8 x 48” or whatever is correct. Thanks for the helpful, and timely, video.
Hi it does clear the chips more but it also stops the part off from snatching downward. The pressure is obviously upward. The Myford ML7 also has a screw on chuck so it is a great advantage to be able to mount the tool upside down at the back.
Hi Doug, yes I had the standard motor on my Mini Lathe for about five years. I had two circuit boards break over that period and had several new potentiometers. I got annoyed at the cost of replacing these parts. In the end I bought A 1 HP 3 phase motor and a VFD and converted the lathe. I haven't had any problems since so I'm pleased with the upgrade. Regards Steve
Hi Tony it be a new type toolpost drill with tapered roller bearings. I'm hoping to make it so that I can do small milling operations quickly using a standard electric drill. If it's successful I will show how I make it at a later date. Regards Steve
Why not cut it off with some kind of saw (dry-cut, cold-cut, band saw, hack saw) then face it off? I realize there are many ways to do things but parting off in this situation seems weird. Maybe it's because my lathe is terrible and parting off makes noises I don't like...
Firstly a little warning to all who are reading this comments section. Further down the page are 2 posts from someone named 'Jordan' asking to be friends. I suggest it would be safest for no other readers to press on reply or open those 2 posts. I have noticed similar ones pop up on other engineering themed youtube channels. Don't open them,they may cause havoc with your computer system. Now onto the subject of the video: Steve you are getting the Max out of the little Myford there. You have an advantage over my Harrison as the Harrisons only have a short cross slide and no Tee slots to facilitate moving the toolpost across to the rear side. I don't really have much problems parting with the Harrison running things the conventional way around because it is quite a sturdy lump of iron. For deep parting on large diameter stock I do find those block and blade setups with the 3mm or 4 mm carbide inserts the most reliable and trouble free. I most often just take the bar over to the 6" horizontal bandsaw ,or does that count as cheating?😅
Thanks for the info on the 'lets be friends' comments. I wondered what they were about. I will delete those from now on..thanks It must be nice having a band saw. For smaller bar I have one of those angle grinder cut-off fixture tools which saves some time. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan The band saw is a game changer. I've had it about 5 years now. Once they've been given a going over the repeatable accuracy and squareness of cut is tremendous. Don't know how I managed for years without one.
@@SteveJordan totally agree with Howard on the band saw! Didn't bother to get one for the longest time, up until about half a year ago. Absolute blessing to have it now!
Hi Steve,. a lot of people use a portable bandsaw now and they seem to really like them. I do not have one but if I did not have a horizontal saw I definitely would have one. They do not take up a lot of room and saw where one person made a mount for it to put in his vice and used it like a vertical bandsaw as they made a little table to attach to it. They are not expensive to buy and blades are readily available. I was thinking of your restricted space and all you do to convert things it might be a nice fit for you. I have the chop saw with the cutting disk but like the bandsaw so much better and do not have all that abrasive dust all over my shop now. Always enjoy your videos. Dale in Canada
@@dalemcinnes1834 I have a homemade steel cutting table that can be fitted onto the rear blade guide bearing housing with 2 screws. Lift the saw arm to fully vertical position,fit the table and you then have a vertical band saw in a couple of minutes.
Nice to watch you working on your Myford. That was the lathe my Dad bought for me (used machine) when I was about 14. That was back in Kenya Colony in 1964. That got me hooked onto machining. I spent countless hours on that machine. I had also subscribed to quite a few English and also American magazines on the subject. So many people were in onto this kind of hobby then. Alas nowadays I’ve watched my children and then grandchildren growing up on video games. Now they are hooked onto their smart phones. Gone are the days.
I love the way you improvise. You teach valuable lessons as to how things can be done even if it seems impossible. Thank you for your videos.
I really like the idea of the tool post cutter being on the other side. I even dreamed about it when I was imagining how to make a small DIY lathe .. cool to see what I dreamed of materialize in reality
Thanks you for all your great videos .
Thanks for watching. I'm pleased you like them. Regards Steve
Excellent technique for a smaller lathe, thanks Steve.
I've done this on all my small lathes SB, Atlas and Myford but I also use a fixed steady rest and it works great. Thanks for posting.
Gday Steve, your system works very well, I think I’ll end up putting the parting tool at the back of the cross slide, thanks for sharing mate, take care, Matty
Nice job Steve, pushing the envelope of your myford to the max. One of the first jobs I am going to do when I get my milling machine in a few weeks time (oh the excitement) is make a rear parting off tool unit for my lathe...... You have just convinced me. Keep it up, enjoying the content. Jon
Hi Jon, Thanks. I would love to have a milling machine, but I haven't got the room. The upside down part-off, I found is the best method. The inserts last as they should as well.
What milling machine are you getting? Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan Thanks for the reply Steve, keep an eye on my channel, I haven't decided yet but I will be posting a video tomorrow night with some thoughts. I have already ordered one machine (sorry for the cloak and dagger stuff) which I will reveal in tomorrow's episode. Would welcome your feedback on any of my thoughts in the few videos I have posted so far, just trying to get the workshop and channel up and running. Thanks again, Jon.
that was exellent steve and done effortlesly on your ridgid set up. i was quite impressed with you parting off that big bar once again great video thanks steve. thumbs up.
Good result Steve - have to confess with thick stuff I let the bandsaw do the work!
Great video. Works well Thank you for sharing.
This is when a little Kennedy Hex-a-cut is my best friend! Simply set it going and go do other things,come back to a neatly cut job, no stress.
Mike Walton is making some quite surprising progress with hss tool grinds on his channel, including parting off grind. Worth a look, as he uses the tools he makes and sells at a very reasonable price, to machine o2 and stainless steels on his 90kw unimat sl1000 with accuracy and ease. This isn’t supposed to be possible on this small machine, so I’d imagine if use as well on slightly larger lathes.
That’s pretty much what I do also. I part most of the way though, then just leave it in the chuck and get a hack saw.
Great video. Would running it in reverse and flipping my part off tool on my compound work the same way? I don’t have that nifty upgrade for dueling tool posts.
Thanks for sharing!
-Joe
I like your videos , they tackle ordinary stuff for ordinary operators like me. Just one comment on your presentation. I can understand that it is difficult to do some kind of operation of any kind, film it and narrate at the same time. Some very successful Utube presenters film whatever it is they are presenting , then do a voice over. The overall effect is that the viewer receives a commentary while the operation is happening in the video, no silent pauses and no explanations after the event has actually happened.
great steve thanks for sharing your knowledge, keep showing your videos please, I would like to ask you a question how can you achieve a good finish to automatically cylinder at slow speeds? We are talking about the advance mm / revolution of the main screw and all those technical data - what combination of pinions do you use to achieve a good finish in 114 steel, for example, thanks to care.
Hi Steve, Just an update on my mini-lathe switching itself off when it liked. I traced the problem to a weak magnetic coil in the on/off switch. It was letting go of the metal plate which lifted the centre pice and held the electrical contacts together. I have a new rocker switch on order which does away with the magnetic bit and once fitted should solve the issue
Paula
Hi Paula, that is great, I'm pleased you found the problem. I don't have a magnetic switch on mine now, just an ordinary push button type. Regards Steve
Thank you. Great tip.
What are the pros and cons of parting from the back side VS. the front side ??
There aren't any.
I thought you were going to show hiw a steady rest helps with rigidity.
Quite lucky it didn't flex enough to grab the tool and yank the bar.
I have a small Atlas/Clausing and do similar to what you have done. The only difference is rather than taking it out of the lathe I place a board across my ways to protect them and finish it in place with a hacksaw.
I just had a rant with my wife about your opening sentence. "A 2 inch diameter steel bar 100 mm long." It seems that you must have the same problem with standard vs. metric in the UK like we have in the US. I wish we in the US would just pick a system! Just one! The metric system is better, but we need to pick just one. When I work on my car it will have a standard nut and a metric bolt. I hate that I just can't pick a set of tools and work on my car. Oh well, enough with the rant, LOL! Great video...
Thank your USA car manufactures for that. In 1972 (or there abouts) the US embarked on a 3 step plan to convert over to metric. We never got past step one - dual labeling. If anything that mucked things up even worse because as hard as straight imperial units were it is substantially harder to toss constantly doing conversions into the mix. Best to just rip the band-aid off and bite the bullet. But the resistance to change over won out and the battle for universal standard was lost (for now). I don't doubt that among other things this has been a signifiant contributor to the large number of anti-science Luddites here.
I'm surpriced that the Imperial using US have got as faar as it has. Look att the different units being used. There is "thou", decimal, there is fraction, letter drills, number drills..... I've got imperial collets for the mill to handle Imperial wigglers, Coax indicator, other various indicators etc. A set of Imperial hex keys is also needed, to assist my metric sets.
When you get right down to it, it's hard to make a case for any system of units over another. Perhaps a system could be based on more fundamental aspects of nature. It's not a great argument. And the meter isn't any more fundamental than a yard so you can't use that to argue for metric over imperial. I know where you're coming from because I held those views for a long time but if you study history and metrology, you would see that these topics are more utilitarian and political than factual. The Internation System is fine but it basically was spread by conquest, not popular demand. The Imperial system was spread by exploration, business, and economic forces. Before widespread trade, every country had their own way of doing thing and it was fine because almost the only argument for a particular system of units is that other people use it. The other argument is historical---my people use these units so I use these units.
Here's a fun fact: in physics software, often the units aren't defined because it doesn't matter at all. Just pick a unit of weight, a unit of distance, and a unit of time. Other units can be derived from those 3 picks. So if you configure the software with a consistent set of units, the answers will automatically be in the correct units.
@@neffk I'm sorry, but I have to disagree. The metric system bases as many things as possible on fundamental units and those that aren't are based on standards which are as invariant as possible and these only change when something that's even more constant is discovered. I've often though that our time standard ought to be the blip from regular pulsars (not those that vary in period because they are orbiting something) preferably one near the north star so there's no seasonal doppler effect.
@@neffk You're perfectly right. The "meter" was for a long time defined by a holy piece of metal in Paris, France. Later a certain number of wavelengths of Cecium(?) was used. Why not Another number ?
The SI-system reduces the number of specific constants for nearly every calculation. But, as You say, both systems are based on something choosen from ?
How about the "letter drills" and "number drills"? I drill metric holes but watching UA-cam videos, I'm lost.
Modern calipers are perfect unit converters. Put in what ever units You want and change between Metric, Imperial, or Fractions.
My first visit. Just subscribed. I had a bad time last night parting a 2” HR 1018 bar on a 1943 vintage SB 10L. Jammed several times and, thankfully, the belt slipped. I concluded that nasty old gravity was keeping the chips on top of the tool so I ended up stopping to remove chips many, many times. That worked down to about 1/2” when a chip jammed and broke the tool bit. Question/suggestion: I don’t remember you mentioning it but was the inverted tool on the machine side done to help clear the chips? I’d have to do the same or my chuck would unscrew. I had to take a few tries, in a three jaw chuck, to get the 4” long bar running fairly straight. How did you get that much longer bar straight enough to center drill? I didn’t see a steady rest. Lastly, I almost skipped the video title when it said “small lathe”. I immediately thought imported mini lathe. You might like to call it “Myford 8 x 48” or whatever is correct. Thanks for the helpful, and timely, video.
Hi it does clear the chips more but it also stops the part off from snatching downward. The pressure is obviously upward. The Myford ML7 also has a screw on chuck so it is a great advantage to be able to mount the tool upside down at the back.
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6:44 ..."point 200 thou"...is that about "point 5 millimeter" ?
Thanks for the vid, as usual, right to the "point" 😊
Correct. 200 thou == 0.200 inches, times 25.4 mm == 5.08 mm.
Hi, Steve . Looking through your videos, I don’t see any motor upgrades on Chinese mini lathe. Do you find the standard motor is good? Thanks
Hi Doug, yes I had the standard motor on my Mini Lathe for about five years. I had two circuit boards break over that period and had several new potentiometers. I got annoyed at the cost of replacing these parts. In the end I bought A 1 HP 3 phase motor and a VFD and converted the lathe. I haven't had any problems since so I'm pleased with the upgrade. Regards Steve
Good job, what you going to make with that?
Hi Tony it be a new type toolpost drill with tapered roller bearings.
I'm hoping to make it so that I can do small milling operations quickly using a standard electric drill. If it's successful I will show how I make it at a later date. Regards Steve
Another great video, Steve. How do you mount the toolpost that end of the cross-slide?
T slots?
I can't see how to do that mounting on my 7*14 mini lathe...
Very nice. My problem is that I have a 7x10 which has actually 8" between centers. Makes jobs like that pretty near impossible.
I take the tailstock off on my Chinese Mini Lathe when parting off long bar. Regards Steve.
Id did like Steve tells here but added a steady rest instead of the tailstock! It worked perfectly.
I thought you where just going to drop it on the floor and brake it off.
Mark Thompson I’ve done that, well not drop it, just break it off by hand
dont understand why not cut it of on a saw and face it?
That little lathe has about all she can handle. 😎
Why not cut it off with some kind of saw (dry-cut, cold-cut, band saw, hack saw) then face it off? I realize there are many ways to do things but parting off in this situation seems weird. Maybe it's because my lathe is terrible and parting off makes noises I don't like...
I use this method because I haven't got a band saw. I also don't have any room for one.
Back gear would have helped on a little myford.
This voice is golden lol
Hi Steve,
I use the steady rest for the same task on my lathe. Do you have any concerns with using the steady rest?
As long as you dont part it of completely it does not matter ,you could use both if you want to go a bit faster and remove the chatter.
I do have a steady rest but it won't take this diameter. I was going to get a larger one from RDG when they get them back in stock. Regards Steve
Why don't you use cutter machine instead
It is quicker and safer .
No need that extreme load on the machine.
I haven't got one.
Firstly a little warning to all who are reading this comments section. Further down the page are 2 posts from someone named 'Jordan' asking to be friends. I suggest it would be safest for no other readers to press on reply or open those 2 posts. I have noticed similar ones pop up on other engineering themed youtube channels. Don't open them,they may cause havoc with your computer system.
Now onto the subject of the video: Steve you are getting the Max out of the little Myford there. You have an advantage over my Harrison as the Harrisons only have a short cross slide and no Tee slots to facilitate moving the toolpost across to the rear side. I don't really have much problems parting with the Harrison running things the conventional way around because it is quite a sturdy lump of iron. For deep parting on large diameter stock I do find those block and blade setups with the 3mm or 4 mm carbide inserts the most reliable and trouble free. I most often just take the bar over to the 6" horizontal bandsaw ,or does that count as cheating?😅
Thanks for the info on the 'lets be friends' comments. I wondered what they were about. I will delete those from now on..thanks
It must be nice having a band saw. For smaller bar I have one of those angle grinder cut-off fixture tools which saves some time. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan The band saw is a game changer. I've had it about 5 years now. Once they've been given a going over the repeatable accuracy and squareness of cut is tremendous. Don't know how I managed for years without one.
@@SteveJordan totally agree with Howard on the band saw!
Didn't bother to get one for the longest time, up until about half a year ago. Absolute blessing to have it now!
Hi Steve,. a lot of people use a portable bandsaw now and they seem to really like them. I do not have one but if I did not have a horizontal saw I definitely would have one. They do not take up a lot of room and saw where one person made a mount for it to put in his vice and used it like a vertical bandsaw as they made a little table to attach to it. They are not expensive to buy and blades are readily available. I was thinking of your restricted space and all you do to convert things it might be a nice fit for you. I have the chop saw with the cutting disk but like the bandsaw so much better and do not have all that abrasive dust all over my shop now. Always enjoy your videos.
Dale in Canada
@@dalemcinnes1834 I have a homemade steel cutting table that can be fitted onto the rear blade guide bearing housing with 2 screws. Lift the saw arm to fully vertical position,fit the table and you then have a vertical band saw in a couple of minutes.
Get a proper lathe, and dump this RUBBISH myford. Myford has past it's sell by date. 😅😅