I personally find it inspiring that you use simple tools and older gear to fix electronics. It allows people on a budget to try and get into repairs as a hobby:)
these amps were quite the unit when they were first released. My Dad had one when I was a kid, but at the time no clue what I was looking at. Today, quite collectable on the used market.
A radio was brought to me for repair a few years ago, was told it works well except it has no sound.... Another valve set I repaired back then had a hard black furry thing tied to the aerial terminal with fishing nylon. When the farmer picked it up I asked him what it was. He explained that it seemed to work better when he placed a finger on the aerial terminal at the back, so he figured a finger was just like a pork sausage.....
Have worked on a few of these SA9500II's and yeah those power supply caps always dry out and go open. Definitely seems like some schmuck had been inside before you. Great video too 🙂
These vintage amplifiers are always interesting to repair, but I also share your opinion and apprehension about such evident signs of tampering. This job was quite easy, dead filtering caps are main culprit in most of these. However, when some of these preamp electrolytics are dead, I also check the other power stages supply caps, as they generally share same aging process. An increased ESR value is definitively the best indication for changing these caps. I've had such problem multiple time with heavy material, typically with amps with broken loudspeakers connectors Nearly all these are nowadays relatively easy to find on the internet, but as for the power indicator bulbs, the shipping costs represent a quite impressive percentage of the total amount, plus you can have import duty fees, and long delays... It's something you always consider when it come to "as new" or mint equipment, as your goal is to leave minimal marks of any intervention to keep the best value on high priced equipment. But hey, here you have a beast with these engravings and numerous traces of non professional tampering, missing screws and so on. I'd even be reluctant to have such mistreated ex pricey equipment in my hands. At this point, the JD weld solution to fix the connector is perfectly acceptable! I perfectly share your position about this Hafler amp, first because these missing fuse holders could be the emerged part of an iceberg, and finally they could be a difficult and pricey part to replace. Another thumbs up for your safety measures! The safety transformer or high sensitivity differential switch are the first line of protection, and the dim bulb trick is another minimum equipment needed to protect the material you check. Some have different bulbs, but one is a good start to indicate when something is wrong, mine is red!
I don't know what country you are in, but I'm in USA and just checked Amazon. They have a variety of 8V bulbs, including LED replacements for Pioneer receivers and amp. Prices range from $11 for 10 to $15 for 10, all with free shipping and many with same day or one-day delivery with Prime. Amazon also has the caps you needed in several brand names at about $18 for 6 of them and same deal on shipping. More and more I find I'm sourcing electronic parts, connectors, cables, and coax from Amazon. The prices are comparable, sometimes cheaper. With a Prime membership ($16 / month) I don't pay shipping and no minimum dollar order. Also, I get my stuff at most two days, usually faster. I get that if you are doing this as a business, you want to turn the repair around and out the door and free up your space.
It all depends on what type of area you live in as to whether you are likely to have your TV or stereo stolen. 30 to 40 years ago in the poorer sections of town it was relatively common for people to have the house broken into and their VCR stolen. That was when VCRs were $400 to $800, probably about 3 or 4 times as much in today's money. Also, if you look up videos from the riots of 2020 and 2021 you will find video of people carrying 50" and larger TVs out stores that they were looting. So, it all depends on where you live.
wonder why those particular caps are ones you have seen have a problem... heat ? stress in the circuit ? or are a lot more of them also just starting to go out in these units at a certain age.
I can tell you do or did this for a living and not just for a hobby. The way your bench is full of stuff and your no messing "get to the fault" approach combined with a long but not obsessive soak test of repairs. I live in a twilight zone where I repair comms equipment as a job and my hobby is repairing tube and solid state radios and record players/amps, test equipment etc - anything really. So I have a slightly tidier hobby workshop because there's no pressure to get kit out the door (but old habits die hard, so not too tidy). I don't have the time or inclination to tidy my area very much where I do my real job. In my hobby I leave stuff on test for days and days in real life scenarios. I don't have the luxury of time or space to do that at work. Generally things are left on test overnight or over the weekend, only longer if known to be intermittent. I like watching you at work, where I work now there's only me actually doing fault finding and repairing and another guy swapping parts and testing. I don't get to talk to anyone with the same experience as me so I love watching youtubers who know their stuff doing a similar job to me. Pretty sad that this is a rapidly dying trade.
Yes I did this for a living from 1981 through to 2003. I left the business then because there was no money in it anymore. Over the course of one year I saw my wages fall from $80,000 to 47,000 in one year. I left and for one year put up satellite dishes because those were the big thing back in 2003 and into 2004. Then I heard that the phone company was going to be hiring, and that was actually the first place I applied for a job back in 1981. Unfortunately I wasn't hired back then because the big hiring had been done between 1977 and 1981. I graduated in 81 so I was still in high school at the time and by the time I graduated their entire quote I had been filled and there was no openings. I actually got in to the company in 2004 when the first batch of guys had all started retiring. That's the thing with big companies like phone company power company etc people don't generally leave those type of jobs until they're ready to retire with their pension so they do a mass hiring and then nothing for the next 25 years until about you guys start retiring with their pension and then they start to replace people although this industry is changing too. I think it's very unlikely that when I retire will be hiring more guys to do my work because it's such a changing industry with everything moving to fiber optic there's much less maintenance to do and once it's installed until the building is replaced it never has to be touched. Someone new moves in they ship them the equipment the equipment gets plugged in and it works. Company will hire less qualified installers that basically just go to the house and plug in equipment or swap out defective and those people will be paid a much lower rate than what we're currently making today because their job won't require the same level of training or expertise that my group has because we have to work both with fiber optic and the old copper plant which is still in use in certain areas. My workbench at home I work on mostly vintage audio equipment I have regular clients that bring me equipment to work on. Several of them are resellers so they pick stuff up at garage sales estate sales etc and it doesn't work they bring it to me to fix, they all want them fixed as cheap as possible because they're just going to turn around and sell it on eBay. This is where I get people and I get annoyed when I get people telling me you should do this you should do that you should do the other thing. Again if a customer came to me and said I want my amplifier completely restored and I don't care how much it cost change all the capacitors. I'd do it and I charge them accordingly two or $300 maybe $400 depending on how much work was required and how many parts I had to put in. Some of those large capacitors cost a lot of money. The small ones sure cheap but some of those big filters can be 50 or $60 each. If clients paying for it no problem but the majority they don't want to pay three or $400 to fix an amplifier that they might get that when they sell it they want it fixed for 40 or $50 so that they can turn around and sell it for $400 and make some profit. Of course I don't care how much they get for something I just don't want them to tell me how much they got for it when they ground me down to the absolute minimum. Like the guy that had the Macintosh DVD player that I had to tear apart to get out of belt. Was telling me how he picked this thing up for 200 bucks broken. I told him at the time I said well it's 150 to fix it. Then I told him I'll tell you what I'll give you $350 for it so you can walk away and make a hundred fifty bucks. Nope no no he wanted it it was one that he always wanted and it was going to be part of his collection. He then proceeded to grind me down on the cost of the repair got me down to 100 because that's all he wanted to spend on it telling me that that was half of what he paid for it after all it was only just a belt. about the took an hour and a half to take the thing apart change and put back together. A few months later I ran into him and he told me how he sold that unit for $1,300. You can imagine that I was a little bit pissed off that I let him grind me down on the repair. Needless to say I had some other stuff of his sitting in the workshop that I put such a huge estimate on that he just picked it up and I haven't done any work for him since all because he opened his mouth and told me how much he made selling this old DVD player. that in the fact that I ran into him driving a Bentley that one I think was the deciding factor.
@@radio-ged4626 no this wasn't the repair guy driving a Bentley this was the guy that I repaired equipment for. He turned around and sold it on eBay to suckers that don't know what stuff is really worth and get caught up in the frenzy and pay way too much. Like the people that continually pay upwards of $1,000 for Sony tcd 5m cassette recorders. One in good working condition might be worth a hundred bucks. If I was in the market for one that would be my limit not the six or seven or 800 or more that some people think these are worth. Unfortunately there's always some fool that has more money than brains or common sense and will pay it. Sometimes for the bragging rights. The guy that was driving the Bentley is one of my repeat customers who's got to be the cheapest scrape that there is. Always grinding me to get a better price from what I tell him it's going to be how he doesn't have the money and how he's a pensioner. That may be true he may be a pensioner but when he comes back and tells me that he sold something that he ground me down on my repair cost and then he made $1,000 profit on it it kind of rubs me the wrong way I don't need customers like that.
@@12voltvids Yes I didn't mean it was the repair guy in the Bentley. I meant that you wouldn't see a repair guy in a Bentley as we don't earn enough. Totally agree that you don't want to hear people bragging about how much they proffited from your hard work, especially when they grind your quote to powder.
I was born in the mid 60's. My dad had one of those blue engravers in the 70's. I believe I still have it somewhere. I was thinking about using it on my cat on my winter car that sits out. Anyway... We had a break in the 70's in a Chicago suburb. My mom must've come home early and interrupted them. It was a split level home that backed up to a huge field. They entered through the sliding door in the kitchen and exited through the basement window. It appears as though the last thing they were doing before my mom came home was unplug my dad's stereo. It was a Marantz reciever and a Dual turntable. They didn't end up getting it, but they tried. A few years later we moved and my dad was pounding on tge wall in the garage. He had dislodged the shelving unit on the other side of the wall holding his stereo. That Marantz receiver and Dual turntable came crashing down on a tile floor and it basically destroyed it.
I've never had anything stolen myself, but I can't say the same for my voice teacher at Indiana University in Bloomington in the 1960s. He had an entire system stolen from his University Apartment when he was gone for the summer including Quad preamp, amp, electrostatic speakers and a Uher 9000 tape deck. Unfortunately, with him lightning did strike twice. He had the Tandberg 64 tape deck that replaced the Uher stolen from his house, also when he was gone for the summer, a few years later. He had received the Tandberg directly from the factory in Norway after writing a letter to the president of the company. I guess that when you're a world-class baritone who would later have a career at the Metropolitan Opera you get those kind of perks. I can't help but wondering if those thefts were inside jobs of someone who knew him and his hobby.
A good old bit of kit, i like the separate psu's and amplifiers. That didn't take you long to find :-D I dare bet that my old SA706 needs recapping, but i can't listen to music now so bugger it.
Harvey! you read my mind, the modular option is definitely the way to go. None of this lets ram as much as we can into this space Sony style 😁 You're 12,000uF electrolytic capacitors are not cheap but.. worth it to keep the unit alive! If you don't listen you can watch the beautiful VU meters 👍🏻
@@Ratchet_effect lol the meters do work :-D One light died about ten years ago, and because i didnt have a tube bulb with a wire at both ends, some bodging was needed to fit an old xmas tree bulb in. Oh i dont listen to the pioneer because my ears are damaged, Like the brain lol. I would have to sell a kidney to buy those capacitors :-D
At least you can get some visual pleasure from it then at least :) hey nothing wrong with a Xmas tree light bodge, if the shoe fits and all that. I don't hear great either so I'm on your side, I have one of those little boxes with mics & headphones that amplifies the sound for me, serves its purpose. No your brains still good, I've seen you in live streams & comments with very helpful and knowledgeable information. Don' put your self on the scrap pile just yet. IF you wanted those caps I'm sure I could help if needs be.
@@Ratchet_effect The funny thing about that amplifier is my mate found it on top of a dustbin, if he had not picked it up the bin lorry would of ate it. He was going to give it to me but he changed his mind as it worked. Nice of him to tell me all this ha ha . Sods law jumped in and the amplifier died lol, serve him right, the next day he dropped it in my hands and said i could have it now. I fixed it in 15 mins, it was a dirty speaker relay ha ha. That was 30 years ago and it still works. Sorry waffle mode on 110% :-(
You don't have to use that @ option UA-cam still lets me know without it. I also answer to Steve! :D That''s not waffle Harvey! that is a cool story & it seems luck was on your side, his loss your gain. You can't grumble with that, a simple clean of the relay and you got yourself a very nice peace of audio equipment. Its nice to see that 30 years later it still has life and can serve its purpose, you don't have to apologise for talking & telling me and the internet the story of the Amp! ya daft sod :)
Mine's made by Hammond transformer company. Kathy two prong cord and two prong outlet. Actually it has three two prong outlets 110 out 120 out 130 out. I have the 130 output plugged into my very act so that I can very from 0 to about 155 volts. It's I think 550 VA something like that I'd have to go and look it's mounted to the underside of my bench it's been there for years. I know that I can power a big plasma TV off at no problem.
Hi, I have a KENWOOD XD-502 MINI HI-FI COMPONENT SYSTEM that play cassette tapes slow. I inspected belts and wheels and are ok. It can be a problem with the pinch rolles ? I cleaned them and I think they need libricated. I also have a Panasonic STEREO SYSTEM SA-AK27 that play and rewind cassette tapes in only left side. I inspected belts and wheels aswell and nothing seems to be wrong
Hi Dave…have you noticed any strength difference between original JB Weld and the quick setting variant? I’ve always used the original but it takes sooo long to set and cure.
Nice looking unit. Pioneer makes some nice gear, good repair { Sarcasm; do I need a vax shot before I buy a bulb at the local big box store, in Canada ? Ha ha....
Great Job 12voltvids ! Thanks for the video , are you far from Kentucky ? Man this g8000 is whooping my butt man ! I cleaned everything very good and correctly but the switch for tone control default cuts my left channel out sometimes i didn't wanna pull tone board out looks like i may have to 😥 Love the amp when i put in amp mode and use a preamp works great . Would love to bring it buy and have you check it out
Hi I'm with you on the Klien scissors they were designed to cut copper foil and braid for high voltage work. by the way my bench is messier than yours! Rich
@@12voltvids Clean bench is peacful for the mind. No wasting time searching for tools, or losing screws or springs amongst the clutter. A big rubber mat beneath the bench helps catch things and is easy on the feet. Old B&D handvac is handy to pick up wire clips, insulation.
Just Tell The Owner To Go To Autozone Get An Instrument Panel Bulb & Put It In. & That'll Save Him Some Money. I've Replaced Alot Of Dial Bulbs. I Put A Newone In My Mom's Stereo. It Used To Have A Plane Clear Bulb So She Wanted A Colord Bulb So I Put In A Small Christmas Bulb So Thatone Burnedout Rightaway. Cause It Was A 3 Volt. Cause Those Kind Of Lights Are In Paralel & They Feed off Each other. So I Tryed A small 12 Volt Intirior Carbulb. Then I Tryed It & It Workef then After I Pluged Into The Socket Using A teal Blue Magic Marker I Colored It. & It Worked The Magic Marker Didnt Come Off The Bulb Cause I Held Onto The Socket & Put It in
@@12voltvids I literally said to myself before as you showed the waveforms, "It's like it's not being filtered properly." as I was thinking of the 60/120 Hz buzz/hum when input caps go bad. I don't think I would have known nearly as quick without some choice words of yours too. Maybe I would have figured it out eventually. No scope doesn't help, that's for sure. haha
I am that unlucky individual back in the 90s I had a break in they damaged several windows to get in stole 20inch TV ,VCR ,cd player ,Yamaha amp and even a personal cassette player from a bedroom ,it happens.
I will tell you a story about stolen equipment. In the late 1980 my brother was living in Montreal somebody broke in his apartment and stole all is stereo equipment, they put everything in his own suitcases the only thing they left was his speakers because they were to big to carry and the funny thing about the story they stole the same amplifier you are working on plus a lot more pionnier stuf.
I don't agree with starting a unit every time on current limiting or variac, under power can damage components as much as over powering will. Your transistors, rectifiers, power caps, need a certain ripple current and voltage in order to function correctly, if not, you are throwing signal waves down stream (distortion from improper bias) that could hurt other things. DBT is for diagnosis NOT for starting a unit every time!
Who starts on current living every time? I only use the current limiting light bulb for unknown amplifiers. I may put one on an old vacuum tube set full time to protect transformers
@@12voltvids sorry I was commenting on wht you said about knowing of people who start their units under limited current every time. Been learning a lot from your videos as a newer restorer!
@@Texan1048 I do know a few people that start their equipment using a light bulb. They haven't set up very much like mine light bulb with a switch on it that way they fire up their equipment they wait about 5 seconds and then switch the bulb out. I've never seen any of their equipment fail because of it at a couple guys that I know that have been doing this for years swear by it I don't myself other than under test with the exception of I've got an old tube radio that goes back to the 1930s and I'm out in a light bulb inside the cabinet and keep it powered up through that all the time. It will reduce the voltage to the tubes for sure and it won't go as loud as it once did and it's probably not quite as sensitive as it should be but it's a radio that I don't listen to on a regular basis it's more for show just like all my other little tube radios they all work but I don't listen to them. Naturally with a big solid state app you would not want to run it going through a current limiter and put a type of volume through it because that will cause a voltage drop which will upset the balance upset the bias I generally cause the unit to go into protection. For the initial startup though I don't really see any problem because you're not drawing any current. Many amplifiers have a NTC thermistor on the power input. This does the same thing start at high resistance and over the course of a few seconds the thermistor heats up at the resistance goes very low. This gives you in Rush current protection. Exactly what putting a incandescent light bulb in series with the power line will do. You switch it on the light will go bright for a few seconds of that damn out as the capacitors charge up now your current in Russia is done and you can throw the switch to take it out of the circuit. my big power Apple fire for example has inrush current protection it's actually built into the power switch which is also a circuit breaker. Why you throw the switch there's a delay before full power is given and that's to allow the big power capacitors to start to charge up slowly. The switch will not engage if there's no power on the AC input if you try to turn it on it'll pop back off. what are the reasons that they do this on some of these big power amps is because the amplifier can draw it excess of 15 amps if it were to be powered directly and I could trip the breaker. I've had that happen on some of the big Apple fires that don't have inrush protection. Hit the power switch at the breaker trips that I got to go reset the circuit breaker.
I have one issue with your work, when you solder or desolder any part from circuit it is safer to do it on flat position rather than in vertical. Hot solder may drip down and create short circuit on other components. Yes I know that in vertical it is easier to do some work but you have to be careful.
@@12voltvids I’m no where near your capabilities but I’ve done a couple that only needed to press the reset switch on the back and viola operation success. Usually pops during a power failure. A common thing here down under.
It wasn't just a broken screw there's nothing to screw it to the actual plastic base is broken. So there's nothing to attach it to other than to glue it into place and less you can find a replacement Jack assembly. if you look at some of the other jacks on the back of it they've been glued in place as well because the plastic has gotten brittle and broken. That's what happens with plastic of this age it breaks
I personally find it inspiring that you use simple tools and older gear to fix electronics. It allows people on a budget to try and get into repairs as a hobby:)
WOW! You went right to the problem! Nice diagnosis, you made it look SO simple.
these amps were quite the unit when they were first released. My Dad had one when I was a kid, but at the time no clue what I was looking at. Today, quite collectable on the used market.
I am looking to pick up a bgw750. Now THAT is an amplifier.
A radio was brought to me for repair a few years ago, was told it works well except it has no sound.... Another valve set I repaired back then had a hard black furry thing tied to the aerial terminal with fishing nylon. When the farmer picked it up I asked him what it was. He explained that it seemed to work better when he placed a finger on the aerial terminal at the back, so he figured a finger was just like a pork sausage.....
I really like the old pioneer stuff,most of their units were fairly easy to work on.
Have worked on a few of these SA9500II's and yeah those power supply caps always dry out and go open. Definitely seems like some schmuck had been inside before you. Great video too 🙂
This is about the 10th one I have done over the years.
@@12voltvids You would be well seasoned on this model by now hehe.. they're a nice unit and the SA8500ii as well 👍
@@glenz1975 Do you have the 8500 II? Because found one for about 400 bucks including shipping.
These vintage amplifiers are always interesting to repair, but I also share your opinion and apprehension about such evident signs of tampering. This job was quite easy, dead filtering caps are main culprit in most of these. However, when some of these preamp electrolytics are dead, I also check the other power stages supply caps, as they generally share same aging process. An increased ESR value is definitively the best indication for changing these caps.
I've had such problem multiple time with heavy material, typically with amps with broken loudspeakers connectors Nearly all these are nowadays relatively easy to find on the internet, but as for the power indicator bulbs, the shipping costs represent a quite impressive percentage of the total amount, plus you can have import duty fees, and long delays... It's something you always consider when it come to "as new" or mint equipment, as your goal is to leave minimal marks of any intervention to keep the best value on high priced equipment. But hey, here you have a beast with these engravings and numerous traces of non professional tampering, missing screws and so on. I'd even be reluctant to have such mistreated ex pricey equipment in my hands. At this point, the JD weld solution to fix the connector is perfectly acceptable!
I perfectly share your position about this Hafler amp, first because these missing fuse holders could be the emerged part of an iceberg, and finally they could be a difficult and pricey part to replace.
Another thumbs up for your safety measures! The safety transformer or high sensitivity differential switch are the first line of protection, and the dim bulb trick is another minimum equipment needed to protect the material you check. Some have different bulbs, but one is a good start to indicate when something is wrong, mine is red!
I don't know what country you are in, but I'm in USA and just checked Amazon. They have a variety of 8V bulbs, including LED replacements for Pioneer receivers and amp. Prices range from $11 for 10 to $15 for 10, all with free shipping and many with same day or one-day delivery with Prime. Amazon also has the caps you needed in several brand names at about $18 for 6 of them and same deal on shipping. More and more I find I'm sourcing electronic parts, connectors, cables, and coax from Amazon. The prices are comparable, sometimes cheaper. With a Prime membership ($16 / month) I don't pay shipping and no minimum dollar order. Also, I get my stuff at most two days, usually faster.
I get that if you are doing this as a business, you want to turn the repair around and out the door and free up your space.
It all depends on what type of area you live in as to whether you are likely to have your TV or stereo stolen. 30 to 40 years ago in the poorer sections of town it was relatively common for people to have the house broken into and their VCR stolen. That was when VCRs were $400 to $800, probably about 3 or 4 times as much in today's money.
Also, if you look up videos from the riots of 2020 and 2021 you will find video of people carrying 50" and larger TVs out stores that they were looting. So, it all depends on where you live.
wonder why those particular caps are ones you have seen have a problem... heat ? stress in the circuit ? or are a lot more of them also just starting to go out in these units at a certain age.
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I can tell you do or did this for a living and not just for a hobby. The way your bench is full of stuff and your no messing "get to the fault" approach combined with a long but not obsessive soak test of repairs. I live in a twilight zone where I repair comms equipment as a job and my hobby is repairing tube and solid state radios and record players/amps, test equipment etc - anything really. So I have a slightly tidier hobby workshop because there's no pressure to get kit out the door (but old habits die hard, so not too tidy). I don't have the time or inclination to tidy my area very much where I do my real job. In my hobby I leave stuff on test for days and days in real life scenarios. I don't have the luxury of time or space to do that at work. Generally things are left on test overnight or over the weekend, only longer if known to be intermittent. I like watching you at work, where I work now there's only me actually doing fault finding and repairing and another guy swapping parts and testing. I don't get to talk to anyone with the same experience as me so I love watching youtubers who know their stuff doing a similar job to me. Pretty sad that this is a rapidly dying trade.
Yes I did this for a living from 1981 through to 2003. I left the business then because there was no money in it anymore. Over the course of one year I saw my wages fall from $80,000 to 47,000 in one year. I left and for one year put up satellite dishes because those were the big thing back in 2003 and into 2004. Then I heard that the phone company was going to be hiring, and that was actually the first place I applied for a job back in 1981. Unfortunately I wasn't hired back then because the big hiring had been done between 1977 and 1981. I graduated in 81 so I was still in high school at the time and by the time I graduated their entire quote I had been filled and there was no openings. I actually got in to the company in 2004 when the first batch of guys had all started retiring. That's the thing with big companies like phone company power company etc people don't generally leave those type of jobs until they're ready to retire with their pension so they do a mass hiring and then nothing for the next 25 years until about you guys start retiring with their pension and then they start to replace people although this industry is changing too. I think it's very unlikely that when I retire will be hiring more guys to do my work because it's such a changing industry with everything moving to fiber optic there's much less maintenance to do and once it's installed until the building is replaced it never has to be touched. Someone new moves in they ship them the equipment the equipment gets plugged in and it works. Company will hire less qualified installers that basically just go to the house and plug in equipment or swap out defective and those people will be paid a much lower rate than what we're currently making today because their job won't require the same level of training or expertise that my group has because we have to work both with fiber optic and the old copper plant which is still in use in certain areas. My workbench at home I work on mostly vintage audio equipment I have regular clients that bring me equipment to work on. Several of them are resellers so they pick stuff up at garage sales estate sales etc and it doesn't work they bring it to me to fix, they all want them fixed as cheap as possible because they're just going to turn around and sell it on eBay. This is where I get people and I get annoyed when I get people telling me you should do this you should do that you should do the other thing. Again if a customer came to me and said I want my amplifier completely restored and I don't care how much it cost change all the capacitors. I'd do it and I charge them accordingly two or $300 maybe $400 depending on how much work was required and how many parts I had to put in. Some of those large capacitors cost a lot of money. The small ones sure cheap but some of those big filters can be 50 or $60 each. If clients paying for it no problem but the majority they don't want to pay three or $400 to fix an amplifier that they might get that when they sell it they want it fixed for 40 or $50 so that they can turn around and sell it for $400 and make some profit. Of course I don't care how much they get for something I just don't want them to tell me how much they got for it when they ground me down to the absolute minimum. Like the guy that had the Macintosh DVD player that I had to tear apart to get out of belt. Was telling me how he picked this thing up for 200 bucks broken. I told him at the time I said well it's 150 to fix it. Then I told him I'll tell you what I'll give you $350 for it so you can walk away and make a hundred fifty bucks. Nope no no he wanted it it was one that he always wanted and it was going to be part of his collection. He then proceeded to grind me down on the cost of the repair got me down to 100 because that's all he wanted to spend on it telling me that that was half of what he paid for it after all it was only just a belt. about the took an hour and a half to take the thing apart change and put back together. A few months later I ran into him and he told me how he sold that unit for $1,300. You can imagine that I was a little bit pissed off that I let him grind me down on the repair. Needless to say I had some other stuff of his sitting in the workshop that I put such a huge estimate on that he just picked it up and I haven't done any work for him since all because he opened his mouth and told me how much he made selling this old DVD player. that in the fact that I ran into him driving a Bentley that one I think was the deciding factor.
@@12voltvids Yes not too many repair guys drive Bentleys. What you say is why its a hobby for me now.
@@radio-ged4626 no this wasn't the repair guy driving a Bentley this was the guy that I repaired equipment for. He turned around and sold it on eBay to suckers that don't know what stuff is really worth and get caught up in the frenzy and pay way too much. Like the people that continually pay upwards of $1,000 for Sony tcd 5m cassette recorders. One in good working condition might be worth a hundred bucks. If I was in the market for one that would be my limit not the six or seven or 800 or more that some people think these are worth. Unfortunately there's always some fool that has more money than brains or common sense and will pay it. Sometimes for the bragging rights. The guy that was driving the Bentley is one of my repeat customers who's got to be the cheapest scrape that there is. Always grinding me to get a better price from what I tell him it's going to be how he doesn't have the money and how he's a pensioner. That may be true he may be a pensioner but when he comes back and tells me that he sold something that he ground me down on my repair cost and then he made $1,000 profit on it it kind of rubs me the wrong way I don't need customers like that.
@@12voltvids Yes I didn't mean it was the repair guy in the Bentley. I meant that you wouldn't see a repair guy in a Bentley as we don't earn enough. Totally agree that you don't want to hear people bragging about how much they proffited from your hard work, especially when they grind your quote to powder.
I was born in the mid 60's. My dad had one of those blue engravers in the 70's. I believe I still have it somewhere. I was thinking about using it on my cat on my winter car that sits out.
Anyway... We had a break in the 70's in a Chicago suburb. My mom must've come home early and interrupted them. It was a split level home that backed up to a huge field. They entered through the sliding door in the kitchen and exited through the basement window. It appears as though the last thing they were doing before my mom came home was unplug my dad's stereo. It was a Marantz reciever and a Dual turntable. They didn't end up getting it, but they tried.
A few years later we moved and my dad was pounding on tge wall in the garage. He had dislodged the shelving unit on the other side of the wall holding his stereo. That Marantz receiver and Dual turntable came crashing down on a tile floor and it basically destroyed it.
I've never had anything stolen myself, but I can't say the same for my voice teacher at Indiana University in Bloomington in the 1960s. He had an entire system stolen from his University Apartment when he was gone for the summer including Quad preamp, amp, electrostatic speakers and a Uher 9000 tape deck. Unfortunately, with him lightning did strike twice. He had the Tandberg 64 tape deck that replaced the Uher stolen from his house, also when he was gone for the summer, a few years later. He had received the Tandberg directly from the factory in Norway after writing a letter to the president of the company. I guess that when you're a world-class baritone who would later have a career at the Metropolitan Opera you get those kind of perks. I can't help but wondering if those thefts were inside jobs of someone who knew him and his hobby.
Hi. How do you clean contacts and variable potentiometers? Dry or cleaner with oil. What kind of cleaner do you have on your desktop? Thank you.
Nutrol or deoxit.
A good old bit of kit, i like the separate psu's and amplifiers.
That didn't take you long to find :-D
I dare bet that my old SA706 needs recapping, but i can't listen to music now so bugger it.
Harvey! you read my mind, the modular option is definitely the way to go. None of this lets ram as much as we can into this space Sony style 😁
You're 12,000uF electrolytic capacitors are not cheap but.. worth it to keep the unit alive! If you don't listen you can watch the beautiful VU meters 👍🏻
@@Ratchet_effect lol the meters do work :-D
One light died about ten years ago, and because i didnt have a tube bulb with a wire at both ends, some bodging was needed to fit an old xmas tree bulb in.
Oh i dont listen to the pioneer because my ears are damaged, Like the brain lol.
I would have to sell a kidney to buy those capacitors :-D
At least you can get some visual pleasure from it then at least :) hey nothing wrong with a Xmas tree light bodge, if the shoe fits and all that. I don't hear great either so I'm on your side, I have one of those little boxes with mics & headphones that amplifies the sound for me, serves its purpose. No your brains still good, I've seen you in live streams & comments with very helpful and knowledgeable information. Don' put your self on the scrap pile just yet. IF you wanted those caps I'm sure I could help if needs be.
@@Ratchet_effect The funny thing about that amplifier is my mate found it on top of a dustbin, if he had not picked it up the bin lorry would of ate it.
He was going to give it to me but he changed his mind as it worked.
Nice of him to tell me all this ha ha .
Sods law jumped in and the amplifier died lol, serve him right, the next day he dropped it in my hands and said i could have it now.
I fixed it in 15 mins, it was a dirty speaker relay ha ha.
That was 30 years ago and it still works.
Sorry waffle mode on 110% :-(
You don't have to use that @ option UA-cam still lets me know without it. I also answer to Steve! :D That''s not waffle Harvey! that is a cool story & it seems luck was on your side, his loss your gain. You can't grumble with that, a simple clean of the relay and you got yourself a very nice peace of audio equipment. Its nice to see that 30 years later it still has life and can serve its purpose, you don't have to apologise for talking & telling me and the internet the story of the Amp! ya daft sod :)
You mention an isolation transformer with isolated ground as well as a variac. Can you comment on what model(s) you recommend? Or even specs?
Mine's made by Hammond transformer company. Kathy two prong cord and two prong outlet. Actually it has three two prong outlets 110 out 120 out 130 out. I have the 130 output plugged into my very act so that I can very from 0 to about 155 volts.
It's I think 550 VA something like that I'd have to go and look it's mounted to the underside of my bench it's been there for years. I know that I can power a big plasma TV off at no problem.
Where's the video of you explaining and building your current limitation bulb?
The entire thing needs recapping ! It's 40 years old 😮!
I just recently completely replaced all the caps in a SA9500 ll. Bulb was bad in it also.
Hi, I have a KENWOOD XD-502 MINI HI-FI COMPONENT SYSTEM that play cassette tapes slow. I inspected belts and wheels and are ok. It can be a problem with the pinch rolles ? I cleaned them and I think they need libricated. I also have a Panasonic STEREO SYSTEM SA-AK27 that play and rewind cassette tapes in only left side. I inspected belts and wheels aswell and nothing seems to be wrong
Old Panasonic or Technics mechanisms often have a gear broken. Mostly only the reverse direction works then.
Hi Dave…have you noticed any strength difference between original JB Weld and the quick setting variant? I’ve always used the original but it takes sooo long to set and cure.
The quick set gets hard as a rock.
I wonder if some of the screws were stripped and someone had used different screws to compensate for stripped holes !!
Nice looking unit. Pioneer makes some nice gear, good repair { Sarcasm; do I need a vax shot before I buy a bulb at the local big box store, in Canada ? Ha ha....
Great Job 12voltvids ! Thanks for the video , are you far from Kentucky ?
Man this g8000 is whooping my butt man ! I cleaned everything very good and correctly but the switch for tone control default cuts my left channel out sometimes i didn't wanna pull tone board out looks like i may have to 😥 Love the amp when i put in amp mode and use a preamp works great . Would love to bring it buy and have you check it out
Long way from Kentucky. Canada left coast.
@@12voltvids Got ya yeap thats pretty far away.
I'm glad I cought this on time
Hi I'm with you on the Klien scissors they were designed to cut copper foil and braid for high voltage work. by the way my bench is messier than yours!
Rich
A messy bench is a profitable bench. (Time is money and cleaning up makes no money.)
@@12voltvids Clean bench is peacful for the mind. No wasting time searching for tools, or losing screws or springs amongst the clutter. A big rubber mat beneath the bench helps catch things and is easy on the feet. Old B&D handvac is handy to pick up wire clips, insulation.
@@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez your welcome to come on down and clean it for me if it bothers you so much.
Power lamp: .. LED & dropping resistor instead?
Just Tell The Owner To Go To Autozone Get An Instrument Panel Bulb & Put It In.
& That'll Save Him Some Money.
I've Replaced Alot Of Dial Bulbs.
I Put A Newone In My Mom's Stereo.
It Used To Have A Plane Clear Bulb
So She Wanted A Colord Bulb
So I Put In A Small Christmas Bulb
So Thatone Burnedout Rightaway.
Cause It Was A 3 Volt.
Cause Those Kind Of Lights
Are In Paralel & They Feed off
Each other. So I Tryed A small
12 Volt Intirior Carbulb. Then
I Tryed It & It Workef then
After I Pluged Into The Socket Using
A teal Blue Magic Marker I Colored It.
& It Worked The Magic Marker Didnt
Come Off The Bulb Cause I Held
Onto The Socket & Put It in
I have 3 cases of incandescent bulbs, 100w 75w, and 60w. Thing is, I never had to replace the bulbs I'm using.
I knew it was preamp caps at the same time you overdubbed saying you knew what the problem was already. I said it out loud actually. Cool heh.
Soon as i saw the waveform i knew the problem.
@@12voltvids I literally said to myself before as you showed the waveforms, "It's like it's not being filtered properly." as I was thinking of the 60/120 Hz buzz/hum when input caps go bad. I don't think I would have known nearly as quick without some choice words of yours too. Maybe I would have figured it out eventually. No scope doesn't help, that's for sure. haha
I am that unlucky individual back in the 90s I had a break in they damaged several windows to get in stole 20inch TV ,VCR ,cd player ,Yamaha amp and even a personal cassette player from a bedroom ,it happens.
I guess it happens depending on location. In my area break in's are not super common. It's a wealthy neighbourhood and crime is relatively low.
I will tell you a story about stolen equipment. In the late 1980 my brother was living in Montreal somebody broke in his apartment and stole all is stereo equipment, they put everything in his own suitcases the only thing they left was his speakers because they were to big to carry and the funny thing about the story they stole the same amplifier you are working on plus a lot more pionnier stuf.
It is totally your fault that when anyone around me says they can hear humming I reply with ‘it’s because it doesn’t know the words’.
I remember the engraving pen,
sweet!!!!
Don't you ever rest?
It doesn't seem so.
I don't agree with starting a unit every time on current limiting or variac, under power can damage components as much as over powering will. Your transistors, rectifiers, power caps, need a certain ripple current and voltage in order to function correctly, if not, you are throwing signal waves down stream (distortion from improper bias) that could hurt other things. DBT is for diagnosis NOT for starting a unit every time!
Who starts on current living every time? I only use the current limiting light bulb for unknown amplifiers. I may put one on an old vacuum tube set full time to protect transformers
@@12voltvids sorry I was commenting on wht you said about knowing of people who start their units under limited current every time. Been learning a lot from your videos as a newer restorer!
@@Texan1048 I do know a few people that start their equipment using a light bulb. They haven't set up very much like mine light bulb with a switch on it that way they fire up their equipment they wait about 5 seconds and then switch the bulb out. I've never seen any of their equipment fail because of it at a couple guys that I know that have been doing this for years swear by it I don't myself other than under test with the exception of I've got an old tube radio that goes back to the 1930s and I'm out in a light bulb inside the cabinet and keep it powered up through that all the time. It will reduce the voltage to the tubes for sure and it won't go as loud as it once did and it's probably not quite as sensitive as it should be but it's a radio that I don't listen to on a regular basis it's more for show just like all my other little tube radios they all work but I don't listen to them. Naturally with a big solid state app you would not want to run it going through a current limiter and put a type of volume through it because that will cause a voltage drop which will upset the balance upset the bias I generally cause the unit to go into protection. For the initial startup though I don't really see any problem because you're not drawing any current. Many amplifiers have a NTC thermistor on the power input. This does the same thing start at high resistance and over the course of a few seconds the thermistor heats up at the resistance goes very low. This gives you in Rush current protection. Exactly what putting a incandescent light bulb in series with the power line will do. You switch it on the light will go bright for a few seconds of that damn out as the capacitors charge up now your current in Russia is done and you can throw the switch to take it out of the circuit. my big power Apple fire for example has inrush current protection it's actually built into the power switch which is also a circuit breaker. Why you throw the switch there's a delay before full power is given and that's to allow the big power capacitors to start to charge up slowly. The switch will not engage if there's no power on the AC input if you try to turn it on it'll pop back off. what are the reasons that they do this on some of these big power amps is because the amplifier can draw it excess of 15 amps if it were to be powered directly and I could trip the breaker. I've had that happen on some of the big Apple fires that don't have inrush protection. Hit the power switch at the breaker trips that I got to go reset the circuit breaker.
I have one issue with your work, when you solder or desolder any part from circuit it is safer to do it on flat position rather than in vertical. Hot solder may drip down and create short circuit on other components. Yes I know that in vertical it is easier to do some work but you have to be careful.
I never have an issue with solder shorting. I do inspect my work as I go. Been doing this for over 40 years now and have never had an issue.
it didn’t know the words!!!
So that amp must know the words because it doesn't even hum!
What’s been your easiest fix ever?
Lots have been really easy.
@@12voltvids I’m no where near your capabilities but I’ve done a couple that only needed to press the reset switch on the back and viola operation success. Usually pops during a power failure. A common thing here down under.
Not sure why you didn't just drill out the broken screw instead of gluing it??? Don't mean to criticize but jee wiz, that is bush league...
It wasn't just a broken screw there's nothing to screw it to the actual plastic base is broken. So there's nothing to attach it to other than to glue it into place and less you can find a replacement Jack assembly. if you look at some of the other jacks on the back of it they've been glued in place as well because the plastic has gotten brittle and broken. That's what happens with plastic of this age it breaks
@@12voltvids Fair enough, my apologies...