Marlite shower board is the ticket. Made a headliner for me Scout over 20 years ago and it still looks good. Glued outdoor carpet over it for sound reduction.
My ol 59 B120 4x4 with a 9 foot bed is completely rattle free going down the road it’s amazing. The stock headliner is like textured vinyl or something glued right to the metal roof. No condensation or warping.
@@cliffhaupt5413 yeah, the A & B series trucks have completely different headliners than these earlier 50s trucks, we had an A120 4x4 and a B100 when I was kid and I remember the exact headliner you’re talking about- I wish I could find a reproduction for my B120 4x4. As far as noise, that A120 sounded like a puppy mill going down the road haha- so many squeaks!
@@bustedford that’s one thing I’m actually looking forward to- with more folks traveling together, it’ll be easier to get more and better footage- especially of the hard spots. Doing it alone, I pretty much would hit a rough patch, work my way through it and then tell about it afterwards.
You might want to put some pieces of hose or vacuum caps over the spotlight fasteners inside the cab. Might save some stitches, trust me. Just curious if you had thought of the foil backed sound deading on the cab roof. I've never tried it but I just drive mine stuff around town not across country.
Hey Eric, I think you got it when you said that the spotlight handle was not all the way on the shaft. There is a notch on the outer shaft that acts as a stop for limiting the rotational limit of the spotlight. since Unity uses that outer shaft on everything (just changes the length) that notch is used to keep the spotlight from hitting the A-pillar or hood. Inside the handle where it fits tightly to the outer shaft you'll see a raised key for lack of better terms that comes in contact with the notch. Yours was probably not lined up properly. I have rebuilt hundreds of those lights over the 26 years of employment working on police cruisers. If you have any questions about them I'd be more than happy to answer them. There are some problems that occur over time but they can be totally rebuilt.
Yep, that was it exactly! I haven’t been inside hundreds of them, just the three or four that I have so I may reach out at some point. They certainly have a unique design!
I was thinking about those door panels changing shape in high humidity. It’s nothing more than an educated guess but IF they are expanding due to the absorption of moisture that could count for the flexing. Again I have no idea about how they are mounted in but it’s possible that picking a day with high humidity to remount them could in theory fix the problem. That said in very dry conditions they could shrink back and put the mounts under tension. Maybe picking a day with moderate humidity to remount them if they do in fact straighten up or are able to be flattened down would work. You did install them in Northern California so they were installed in very low humidity conditions unless it was done during the rainy season. I haven’t seen that video so just spitballing here but it seems like it has to be an issue of the material absorbing moisture and expanding. The only other way to prevent the problem that I can think of would be to add an impermeable layer like for example a polyurethane finish on wood. Not sure how that could be accomplished on whatever material the door panels are made of. I’ve restored old leather using a conditioner that feels like the right direction to head in some kind of protectant layer to prevent a sponge effect.
@@colinlove5062 I love the attention to detail in your assessment! However, I actually installed them in Texas probably a year after I had the truck home on a moderately humid day- but I think that doesn’t have too much bearing on it. The problem (as I see it) is that the repop interior panels are made of more basic cardboard, whereas the originals were a type of fiberboard that could absorb moisture and/or dry without expanding or contracting. The fastening method is just a bunch of simple clips that aren’t stout enough to inhibit basic contraction or expansion. I think a solution (the most “correct” one?) would be finding a supplier of fiberboard closest to the original and cutting the patterns from those.
@@ryrob37 I’ve actually thought about a lot lately, but more for the thermal barrier. Those steel roofs get HOT in the summer in Texas and I’ve had heat exhaustion numerous times from it in recent years.
Marlite shower board is the ticket. Made a headliner for me Scout over 20 years ago and it still looks good. Glued outdoor carpet over it for sound reduction.
Awesome truck , keep sending videos
My ol 59 B120 4x4 with a 9 foot bed is completely rattle free going down the road it’s amazing. The stock headliner is like textured vinyl or something glued right to the metal roof. No condensation or warping.
@@cliffhaupt5413 yeah, the A & B series trucks have completely different headliners than these earlier 50s trucks, we had an A120 4x4 and a B100 when I was kid and I remember the exact headliner you’re talking about- I wish I could find a reproduction for my B120 4x4. As far as noise, that A120 sounded like a puppy mill going down the road haha- so many squeaks!
Love the new tires
Great content and storytelling
Gonna be an epic road trip
Dont be shy about showing longer videos of youguys thundering down the road, the stops and some of the misery to😉👍🏻
@@bustedford that’s one thing I’m actually looking forward to- with more folks traveling together, it’ll be easier to get more and better footage- especially of the hard spots. Doing it alone, I pretty much would hit a rough patch, work my way through it and then tell about it afterwards.
Enjoyed- what a insane . have a great day,;)
Southwest brake & alignment does great work.
You might want to put some pieces of hose or vacuum caps over the spotlight fasteners inside the cab. Might save some stitches, trust me. Just curious if you had thought of the foil backed sound deading on the cab roof. I've never tried it but I just drive mine stuff around town not across country.
Hey Eric,
I think you got it when you said that the spotlight handle was not all the way on the shaft. There is a notch on the outer shaft that acts as a stop for limiting the rotational limit of the spotlight. since Unity uses that outer shaft on everything (just changes the length) that notch is used to keep the spotlight from hitting the A-pillar or hood. Inside the handle where it fits tightly to the outer shaft you'll see a raised key for lack of better terms that comes in contact with the notch. Yours was probably not lined up properly. I have rebuilt hundreds of those lights over the 26 years of employment working on police cruisers. If you have any questions about them I'd be more than happy to answer them. There are some problems that occur over time but they can be totally rebuilt.
Yep, that was it exactly! I haven’t been inside hundreds of them, just the three or four that I have so I may reach out at some point. They certainly have a unique design!
I was thinking about those door panels changing shape in high humidity. It’s nothing more than an educated guess but IF they are expanding due to the absorption of moisture that could count for the flexing. Again I have no idea about how they are mounted in but it’s possible that picking a day with high humidity to remount them could in theory fix the problem. That said in very dry conditions they could shrink back and put the mounts under tension. Maybe picking a day with moderate humidity to remount them if they do in fact straighten up or are able to be flattened down would work. You did install them in Northern California so they were installed in very low humidity conditions unless it was done during the rainy season. I haven’t seen that video so just spitballing here but it seems like it has to be an issue of the material absorbing moisture and expanding. The only other way to prevent the problem that I can think of would be to add an impermeable layer like for example a polyurethane finish on wood. Not sure how that could be accomplished on whatever material the door panels are made of. I’ve restored old leather using a conditioner that feels like the right direction to head in some kind of protectant layer to prevent a sponge effect.
@@colinlove5062 I love the attention to detail in your assessment! However, I actually installed them in Texas probably a year after I had the truck home on a moderately humid day- but I think that doesn’t have too much bearing on it. The problem (as I see it) is that the repop interior panels are made of more basic cardboard, whereas the originals were a type of fiberboard that could absorb moisture and/or dry without expanding or contracting. The fastening method is just a bunch of simple clips that aren’t stout enough to inhibit basic contraction or expansion. I think a solution (the most “correct” one?) would be finding a supplier of fiberboard closest to the original and cutting the patterns from those.
I have a sun visor, I don’t know how to contact you though, I’ve been left behind by these computing machines, and I like it!
@@gpschaser email me at bareknucklebinder@gmail.com !!
Rubber hood cushions, bet those hadn’t been in place in a decade or two!
@@adamsmith5448 haha no doubt!
Spit on it bud
@@mixrmandd just give it the ol “Hawk Tuah!”
From what I’ve gathered you rock these trucks OG through and through. How about sound deadener though?
@@ryrob37 I’ve actually thought about a lot lately, but more for the thermal barrier. Those steel roofs get HOT in the summer in Texas and I’ve had heat exhaustion numerous times from it in recent years.
Where do you get the rubber hood bumpers from?
🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻👍🇺🇸