Making the Switch to SLA! - Biomimetic Mechatronic Hand Part 5
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2024
- Here's a look at my new SLA printer and how it will affect my biomimetic mechatronic hand. In this video I'll walk you through my new setup, air purification, and the new parts I've designed specificially for SLA printing.
Discord Server: / discord
Support me on Patreon! / nilheimmechatronics
Contact: enquiries@willcogley.com
GitHub: github.com/ikkalebob/NM-bioni...
Stuff featured in this video:
SLA Printer: amzn.to/3gsgAVn
Wash/Cure machine: www.anycubic.com/products/any...
Thingiverse Parts: www.thingiverse.com/thing:287...
www.thingiverse.com/thing:425...
www.thingiverse.com/thing:425...
Very nice side cutters: amzn.to/30oM4pC
Charcoal filter kit (not the one I'm using but a US version): amzn.to/2DvpMcT - Наука та технологія
Holy fuck. It sounds like you're a genius trying to communicate what you're saying.
I'm so sorry your previous constraints have been expelled and I mean that sincerely.
Please continue your work no matter what. I love you, sir.
Great to see that you are making progress on your project! As you progress in your design I think that you're going to find that sla is awesome, and affords a lot of advantages over fff. but eventually I think you'll agree plastic is still plastic. 1 revision ago, all of my major components were made of resin. They worked well, but as they would age and be in the sun they would develop micro fractures and eventually break, often at the most inopportune time.That's when I made the commitment to fabricate the next build in aluminum. Hit me up if you want to compare ideas or collaborate. Keep up the great work 👍.
Hey! Great to see you here! I've been watching both of you guys' channels and I think the different projects you and Will make are interesting.
Curious, what resins are, did you use? How long were they cured? What was your method of curing? Asked as it sounds in part like a characteristic of the resins used, not the sla methodology itself. Also there are sla resins that are excellent for investment casting; the route I take when metal is the best design choice, as it bypasses the limitations inherent in CNC machining.
Ive been putting my isopropanol in a sealed see-through container and leaving it in the sun for a few hours. The resin will precipitate out and can then be filtered out and left to harden leaving relatively clean ipa to be reused.
Doesn't it also make IPA to boil off?
@@mvadu It has to be sealed, I've been using cheap tupperware type containers with a rubber ring around the top, you might lose some but much better than trying to dispose of toxic emulsion. The ipa is nearly clear and the sludge can be filtered and hardened into a safe resin blob.
@@petermoore9504 that makes sense.. Good idea, and environmentally friendly too
What is happening? How does having some of your material react benefit you?
Fricking awesome to see your progress!!!
Thanks for the diversion... this got me researching Resin 3D printers. As often the case, the internet teaches us stuff we didn't know we wanted to know. Cheers.
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I don't even mind how often this sort of update comes out I'm just loving the whole design and learning process behind it. Especially the exploration of SLA for small and intricate parts, MSLA is even cooler if you have a chance to look at it.
Wow, these parts look really futuristic! It’s so cool!
Dude. Videos like this is why I love the internet. I greatly appreciate the level of detail you've shared, as I have the exact same concerns for the exact same reasons.
I too am looking to purchase a resin printer to replace my now ancient XYZ AiO printer. Thanks for this.
Welcome to the SLA world! I joined the SLA team a year ago and have never questioned it since. FDM is great, SLA is just my go to for most anything I print.
One more thing you'll find different from FDM, heat. Because it's resin, the part can handle more heat than any non-heat designed FDM filament.
@@unity3d706 That's pathetic. Go somewhere else with you self advertising bait.
Sorry bro
I delete it
Yeah, but resins can get very brittle if continued to be exposed to UV light. FDM is much stronger when the scale gets large.
Well, to be fair, annealing dry PLA in a mold-like structure (i.e. hard silicone, or as CNC kitchen did, gypsum) will make it remarkably heat-resistant without deforming it.
Congratulations! I'm glad this is working out so well for you.
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so glad you've made the transition. the hand will be so sleek now
This video shows the main reason why I call my (just started) channel "Chemicals&Robots", I believe people like you will push forward a huge change of the world.
I particularly believe fdm printers could meet the specifications for your project , but (in my opinion) its not a 3DP project, but a revolution on amputee patients life quality. Go ahead and you've got a new Supporter. Hope to talk to you soon about bring this revolution to North Brazil.
Still good you did fdm for people who don't have a resin printer
This is exciting! Keep up the great work!
Skynet should hire this guy
Great design work. Kudos!
Hello there! In my experience, taking off the supports before putting the pieces into the cleaner leaves better surface finishing. Great project btw, love seeing it come together.
Keep up the good work man !
Keep up the good work. Your work is amazing
Dude you deserve many more subscribers than you currently have
Excellent work Will!
"I don't want to say the brand name because I'll get demonized"
me: Why???
shows the servo... ohhhhhhh lol
If this was about a 1/35 scale Gundam build this channel would blow up with support.
may we finally benefit from the ingenious minds of this guy and have almost seamless movement in prosthetic hands, thumbs up
Amazing work, I always enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work.
With current advancements in miniaturisation, maybe for version 2 of this hand each finger can be actuated by a direct driven motor. Like a micro robotic arm.
Hey Scott funny you suggested that! That exact concept was my EE bachelor's design project. After watching this channel I've been researching on how to perfect it. Once I get my SLA printer or build one I'll start a UA-cam series about it.
Excited for you bud... All the best...
Hi Will! Even a crappy ultrasonic bath will make a huge change to the removal of the uncured resin. I let mine sit in there for about 20 min and they always come out super clean including the interiors as well as blind holes.
Can't wait for more updates! :D
Cant wait till this is complete
I don't really know something useful to say like Aserta or Jens Kaufmann, but I like what you're doing and keep up the great work.
I was very excited to see how you reacted to SLA printing, glad to see you were as impressed as I thought you would be! I also have an Anycubic Photon, they're amazing machines (though I believe it's technically a DLP (display light printing) printer not SLA (stereolithography))
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Awesome stuff!
LoL that brand name!
How to loose all your client since 2019!
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Got me of goard as well 🤷🏻♂️🧠😩 2020
Do watch out with SLA prints for structural components! I learned the hard way that SLA prints tend to warp and creep over time. Especially if forces are applied to it. After some months the tolerances with come loose and surfaces might warp way more than i ever notices on FDM prints in PLA or PETG. For example, i had to shim up all my bearing seating holes after 3 months since they started to rattle in my resin prints. So i went back to FDM for most structural parts.
Go for the ultrasonic cleaner. If you can get a decently sized one, do, you'll probably use it for other things as well, very useful tools, and in the resin aspect, about the only thing short of pressure that can clean properly, all the small bits out. However, be mindful of what fluids you use, ultrasonic cleaners, as part of the math behind the sonic aspect of the deal, specifically, the horns, well, if you put too thick or too thin a fluid, that's going to shorten the life span of the unit (if that happens, don't throw it away, just replace the broken parts, they are simple machines, but behind them there's complex math, one of the reasons there's only a hand full of DIY sonic cleaners out there).
Awesome!
3d printer for prototyping is the best choice. This type printer is more precise.
I'm using a homemade CNC mill from plywood.
Looks great!
You will likely want to play with more durable resins.
Just picked up a SLA printer as well and love it. Looking for a really strong resin to use with mechanical parts. How are your parts holding up and what resin have you been using?
good to see that your getting some good use out of your photon, hopefully it benefits your projects.
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i got an SLA printer a while ago too and was equally impressed with the detail reproduction and tolerances! the only thing that concerns me with your tiny parts is (at least in my experience) compared to FDM parts are much more brittle, they chip and fracture much much easier. and if you are thinking of printing anything that will see lots of Sun or UV exposure, forget it, as it will warp, discolour and crack within a matter of weeks.
I was loving your channel because your 2d based design was going to make it easier for me to machine it out of aluminum. But now that you've changed to a more organic design I am sad to say i will not be supporting your patreon but I will be following you channel for your part picking and design ideas... thank you.
*hi 5 new SLA bro* - esp as we're both in the biomedical field.
IMHO the best place for a SLA workstation is a bathroom.
Ultrasonic is by far the best to remove; use a container with solvent (EtOH) in a water bath.
Consider adding some "flex" resin for additional strength.
for the size of the componants you can reduce the size of the touch points to the part quite a lot in chitubox.
I would also point out that The printer you're using is actually a DLP printer and not an SLA printer.
SLA printers use Lasers to cure the resin Which is why they're more expensive
DLP use a screen to display a slice of the model and shine a light (usually UV) up through the screen to cure the resin.
You may also want to look into finding Tough DLP resins rather than the standard ones as they'll hold up to the wear and rubbing better
I used those servos in an animatronics project and they were super nice for how cheap they were
After finishing the prototyping with the SLA printing, you can ask the parts to be made with iron 3d printing , as a last finish. It costs a tiny tiny tiny tiny, but just a tiny bit more but could be worth it
There are also engineering resins available with similar tensile strengths and stiffness values of ABS. You could try that for some of the structurally demanding parts.
This is great. I want a 3D printer for my projects, but I also want to print DnD minis on the side.
A weird case, but while I mainly want it for parts, I will likely print more minis over all.
So I just wanted to see that these types of printers could still do parts well enough.
Oh another thing, An ultrasonic helps TONS but, ive been told not to use IPA in a ultrasonic. Use a strong degreesing detergent, Im currently trying CIF floor cleaner. works 99% of the time cleaning up the surface but i still struggle getting all resin out of holes...
Best thing to do is first agitate it in IPA for a little while... then maybe rinse in some detergent, then put into the ultrasonic with detergent for several minutes....
People seem to be getting good results mixing e.g. 20% Siraya Tenacious resin with regular resin. This'll keep costs down for prototyping and yield parts that will bend rather than break!
good quality parts
First time I have seen this... dual screen internet, means I am googling and ebaying and reading manuals while pausing this video... thanks for the insights. Looks very effective. I would like a bigger build space option. But for the price... I wonder how strong the material is for wire pulleys?
FINALLY SLA
One tip: You can design parts that need to be one part, but maybe you have to put something inside it, or it's difficult to print as one part, as TWO parts. Then after assembly, put some uncured resin on the mating surfaces, and cure it. It's like gluing it but the glue is the same material and strength as the print. This works best with transparent resin. Like the Siraya tech blue on Amazon. I use that almost exclusively.
Wow if I every loose my hand ill commission your hand and u deserve a sub because I'm a cybernetic freak 😆
You videos is very very good. My English is very very Bad. Greetings from Argentina
Can you please Link the thin Potentiometer you used? Thank you and great work!
There's a time and a place for each current technology in 3D printing: there was obsolutely no competition for SLA / DLP in your scenario. I cannot wait to see what kind of doors are opened now that you've invested in a new machine.
Sls
@@nickb8530 My bad, no competition for any consumer-grade technology. Although, you are correct. Would also be cool to see some metal printing as well.
@@benjamin_f_gates, Yes! Anycubic did released some info about a FDM filament metal printer, but the info is not complete at the moment.
There are some other companies that already sell this but they are way too expensive for a stupid FDM, hope AC does have better pricing.
Unfortunately you still need to sinter the parts and they will shrink like crazy, but it does seem to be coming with good pricing!
Oh, and I do have a SLS and hate the powder! actually never use it because of that.
@@nickb8530 Impressive!
super interesting! i want to make both artistic and functional prints and its hard to know what printer to get, would love to hear how your thoughts went when you chose this one. I was thinking of the saturn 2 initially , but maybe its overkill doubling the price and this one could be fine... Regards
I'm looking to get the water washable and biodegradable resins next, I would suppose they are much less toxic and annoying to clean during post processing. It's a fun technology, the parts produced can look very professional with a bit of know-how and trial and error.
I would personally redesign the servos into linear actuators. You will have a lot more torque to pull cables
Check out the AnyCubic print cleaner system. Well worth the price and it cures prints as well.
I love the idea of SLA printers, but how do you dispose of the waste?
So how fast is the resin going for these components? And what about the strength of the material? I know there are special strong resins these days.
OH, and I forgot to mention! Really like you get almost the same result as your 3D drawings. Nice and clean.
Dope!
@Will Yes, You are right with the ultrasonics cleaning, especially in high aspect ratio structures. due to the fact that a quasi laminar flow over the surface will generate a Nernst layer that favours diffusion as transport mechanism only (the other terms of the Nernst Planck equation are negligible, because you do not apply any field the Migration term is dropped and because of the laminar flow the convection drops to zero near the boundaries of the liquid.)
So normally (Laminar flow) the thickness is inverse proportional to the velocity of the laminar flow. But for high aspect ratio structures this is not interesting. But if you are using Sonic agitation the thickness of the Nernst diffusion layer is inversely promotional to the frequency. So blast it with US. Note also that the energy that you put in it is not affecting the result directly, but US is directional. so get the parts moving in the basket. Good luck J
of course...
elementary ;)
Seriously though, never thought laminar flow was present in a US bath. I thought it was purely chaotic. Makes sense to me though that you still need to shake it up while it's in the bath.
@@Scott_C You right, the laminar flow still present, is mostly overlayed by the turbulent but that is not the reason you should move the parts. The fact that the Soundwaves the cause the turbulent flow are directional and therefore you can "shadow" areas that you want to clean. On top of that it gets worse if you up the frequency. Most commercial bath are using tube shaped tranducers in an elongated tube and move the parts in wire basket through it. Therefore a change the angle of incident is automatic. But if you use a smal bath Using a small motor with a excentic disc tipping the basket does the trick for me. :D
I'd be very interested to see how the design handles with how brittle SLA is if you want higher heat resistance. Going to ABS like reduces heat resistance significantly. I haven't bought an SLA printer, but I've ordered professional (think half million dollar) SLA prints with quality controlled resins and aesthetics. Hope it holds up and you don't have to start experimenting with different resins and a mixed printing but I have a scary feeling...
Hey.. back checking out your video becuase I need to make a robot finger for my next video. SO I'm looking for inspiration on the design. But I wanted to say that it looks like your winodw is open open, meaning that you're letting UV light in. Remember that UV light cures the resin. So you'll want to always have a shade on there or print at night.
Hello Will, good work, appreciate your efforts. I'm curious and wanted to know for what application are you intending to use these bionic hands?
Like is it for disabled people?
Watch his older videos. In short, yes.
Why do we climb the mountain? Because it's there! Or, because we can I guess.
I've been waiting for my Elegoo Saturn to arrive before I make your eyes. Do you think you'll need to revisit other projects not you can see the advantage of resin printers?
you need to check out the new bio resins from esun. Nearly no smell, prints great, no brittle parts - they are way better then the original resin.
Technically this type of printer is called (DLP) digital light processing printer. But it use basically the same kind of printing material.
May I ask if you recommend SLA for functional bushing of vehicles?
Just a hint to the photon: You can disable the smell extractor fan without any issues
Nice
Are there any good videos on how to add programming onto the Arduino? I printed, wired, and assembled your eye mech but cant get the programming to work. I'm good with mechanical stuff but the programming/computer stuff is a big weakness in my knowledge. I spent quite a bit on parts to make them would love to see them working. Thanks!
hell yeah
Out of curiosity have you found the mechanical properties of the resin parts change over time? Do they become more brittle or slowly warp?
do the cables in the joint have more torque than say a worm gear ?
Would you ever sell the STLs or make them available for people to build their own prosthetics?
Super happy for you, sad for me. SLA printer huh... Maybe.. one day... Hope the project ends well!
How is the dimenestional accuracy/tolerances?
I can't for the life of me find an answer. everyone is just printing minis.
How brittle are tough abs like resins like Siriya tech?
How much bigger do you make parts? And how much difference do you leave for press fit parts?
Is resin good as ABS? Can you print with it parts for RC cars?
Any concerns with the resin being significantly more brittle than the other plastics?
How is the overflowing resin? Can you use it multiple times? Is it getting slightly hardened or do you need to dispose of it after X amount of prints?
Basicly... how cost efficient is it?
Providing you don't have your printer in direct sunlight there is very little wastage. You pour the excess through a filter to get out any small bits of debris that may have cured and rinse off whatever remains stuck to the print but for all intents and purposes any resin that isn't used in the print is untouched and can be used again.
I use a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and I love it!
Printer? Or cleaning tub?
@@benjamin_f_gates Crap. My bad. I was thinking printer and trying to type cleaner. Must have typed in the wrong thing.
Can't stop reading Sealed Lead Acid
CORONASERVO LOL
Look into using an ABS like resin, I use elegoo mars abs like resin, its tougher and able to take stress much more than anycubic resin. IE it will shatter less as its less brittle...
He should get together with VOG and do a metal cast version crossover video.
About those wires used for finger - Can you use something like "addressable led" for christmas lights, so it's one long wire instead of multiple thick wires going for each joint separately? Just remined me those christmas lights with alphabet from Stranger Things :)
I would love to get into SLA. But the whole processing that takes place after the print kinda scares me. It is so much more convenient to just pop your part off the bed.
What resins are you using?
Be wary regarding resin, it's great for detail, but its brittle. You might be better off using PLA for some parts instead of resin.
Joel, of 3D Printing Nerd, after this video was posted, just posted a video of his Resin Printing process. I highly recommend it. As well as the other really good recommendations mentioned by my fellow commentors.
Are the parts you printed very brittle ?
🔥😍❤👍
what 3d modeling software is this?
After washing the parts in the cleaner, I would suggest putting the them in curing station (or DIY one - UV led strip, nail polish oven or other UV source, i would suggest making enclosure cuz UV is not harmful aand 'youtube safety experts' in the comments) or leave them in the sun. Also resin has different behavior under stress. In my experience (with Anycubic resin) parts are more brittle than any PLA. PLA can bend and deform, and the resin - snaps
I _Literally_ just bought one of these! Ordered on Saturday, no word on shipping yet, and it's now Wednesday :/
:| yikes, where did you bought it from?
I hope you are not getting scammed
@@RENO_K Directly from Anycubic. I expected delays, due to regional lockdowns. My last big order took over a month, and it was from HP!
Sir how design biomechtronic hand sir by you are suggest me the resources sir
Wouldn't fishing wire be better for this?
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@@unity3d706 while you may be very proud of your video, it is not an answer to this question and you putting it here is quite the SPAM bait - either be more honest about your efforts or FOAD.
Sorry bro