Valvoline Engineer: oil changes, Carbon Buildup w/ Restore and Protect
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- Опубліковано 19 лип 2024
- In this interview, Publisher Tim Esterdahl interviews Jason Head, Senior Engineering Manager at Valvoline Global Operations, on engine oil intervals, oil thickness and carbon buildup reduction with the new Valvoline Restore and Protect product.
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Oil/filter change costs me ~$50. I have absolutely zero problem doing it every 3k miles or so. One thing for sure, my engine is staying nice and clean inside. It's a very small price to pay to ensure long life for my engine. You guys that wanna go 10k miles, be my guest, but I don't want to buy your used vehicle.
But someone else will. No one cares whether the previous owner threw their money away on 3k oil changes.
@@OtisFlint People who meticulously maintains their vehicle usually don't sell 'em.
My neighbor does only 2 oil changes during his 3yr lease. The first free one at the dealership and one right before turn in . He states whoever buy this after me better get an extended warranty because they gonna need it .😊
I change ours every 4K-5K miles, full synthetic
The days of changing oil every 3K miles was when additive technology was beginning. Today oils like Mobile 1, Schaffer, Amsoil all do fine up to 10K. Have done this on a 345K mile Tundra. When changing oil comes out slightly darker then put in. Wasting your money changing that soon, not a race car!
The Oil Geek says that the 10,000 mile range on todays oil has been pushed by the EPA ( government ) so as not to use or have to dispose of as much volume of oil. He suggested you stick with a 5000 mile range if you plan on keeping your car long term vs if you lease or going to trade your car every few years then go with the 10,000 mile according to the car manufacturer!
I’ve checked his claims. I can’t figure out where’s he is stating that information.
@@Pickuptrucktalkhe did a video with the guys from the valvoline engine test lab in Kentucky
@@danielbeiersr3642 he did. I saw that one as well.
@@Pickuptrucktalk
Watch his video carefully, and try to listen without prejudice.
Jasons and Lake Speed Jnr ( the oil geek ) tech info suits me fine. Interesting to see the extended range of oil products in the States more than here in Australia.
This is why I love this channel, Tim brings in engineers/experts to explain what is going on.
Agree, It isn't "my buddy said...". He actually brings in experts and talks with them and gets actual information.
Yes. Instead of interviewing an hourly "quick lube dealer technician" we have an actual engineer here... amazing how the masses put more faith in a stealership quick line tech
There’s just one problem, maybe two. Only 3 companies make base oil. Only 4 companies make additive packages. None of them say Valvoline on the label.
@@flyingjeff1956 Hmm, BP, Shell, Exxon/Mobil, and Texaco?
As a 24-year synthetic lubricants dealer, people don't understand and I don't blame them because they don't know, the vast majority of synthetic oils on the market today the base oil is still made from crude oil. look up the term hydrocracking. Castrol brought that into existence many many years ago and the term "synthetic" has been redefined. you very well may be buying a synthetic oil but it's still a crude base mineral oil and not a chemically synthesized synthetic as it used to be known. Now that being said it is a huge improvement over conventional mineral oil it's heavily refined it's Hydro cracked which means it goes through a process that breaks down or splits the molecular structure of the oil to make it more uniform. The best way to describe that would be if you look at oil on a molecular level crude oil has very irregular shapes and sizes, they are trying to roll over one another similar to a bowl of marbles but if you're using a truly synthesized synthetic it's chemical made all the molecules are exactly the same size that's why a true class 4 synthetic oil reduces friction. The term "fully" synthetic means nothing, it's a marketing term also don't waste your money on a synthetic blend because there's no industry standard that regulates the blending ratio so you literally could buy a qt of blend and get a tablespoon of synthetic stock and be paying more for no advantage. I never recommend a synthetic blend either stick with a good quality mineral based oil or go with a higher end TRUE synthetic. if you look at the classifications of oil there's class one, two, three, four, five class. one and two is a mineral base conventional oil the only thing that separates those is the level of refinement. it's similar to diesel fuel and kerosene, diesel fuel is dirtier than kerosene basically the same but one's cleaner more refined. class 3 is a hydro cracked also known as a pseudo synthetic oil that's the majority of what's on the market and you can always tell based upon cost and then class four is a chemically synthesized hydrocarbon oil not manufactured from crude by the time you reach the fifth category that is a high-end Esther typically you don't ever find a engine oil made from Esters they are super rare, but they are used as additives in "True" synthetic oil. There's absolutely no problem with doing extended oil changes but there's a number of factors that go into it. I am not only a 24-year veteran of being a lubricant dealer but I've been a mechanic for 40 years and a fleet manager for 20 years. if you're doing extended drains only do them when you're using quality filtration including bypass filtration and oil analysis that way you're taking any risk or guesswork out of the equation. Oil drain intervals very greatly even using the same oil. I have ran vehicles 25k miles using oil analysis and the oil is still perfectly good. sometimes you run the oil do a sample they may tell you to change the filter and top it off the oil still good for continued use. I've also ran the same oil in engines instead of getting 25k out of it it may be completely trashed at 12k depends on the engine and the drivers application. So to give you a blanket drain interval if you're doing extended drains is not a good idea that's why I always recommend people do oil analysis and just in case you're not familiar with oil analysis it goes far beyond just telling you if the engine oil is good or bad. I have diagnosed many engine problems using all analysis looking at the wear Metals in the oil, fuel dilution, coolant contamination Etc. it gives you basically the same equivalent of doing blood work on your body. I am a advocate for extended drains over the long term it does reduce cost and environmental waste also downtime if you have a fleet. Now that being said if you're an average guy and you don't want to mess with doing all that then just change your oil and filter using quality products that you've researched and have confidence in not marketing but do you research and change it when the manufacturer recommends or at least when you feel comfortable.
@TheHillrat4wd........I Had a 1994 Dodge/Cummins powered, that I used AMSOIL 15w-40 100 PERCENT synthetic, and a bypass oil filter system for 10 years and 155 thousand miles, using "OIL ANALYSIS" every 12 K miles,and the oil was NEVER drained, just added added oil when needed, which wasn't very often! "OIL ANALYSIS results always came back indicating oil was good for "CONTINUED USE"!
@@1gr8oil thank you for sharing that is my point
UOA are the best way to know oil life good or bad. I run a bypass as well on 03 7.3L PS changing every 5K.miles.
This bastardization of the definition of synthetic oil is why I stopped using Castrol oil.
@@1gr8oilWow. Thanks
Oil doesn't remove contaminants from an engine until you remove the contaminated oil from the engine. You're not changing the oil at 3k miles because the oil is bad, you're changing it to remove the contaminated oil from the engine. Or you can keep the contaminated oil in your engine for 10k miles. It's up to you but I don't like running oil for 10k miles. Even if the oil is still technically good, I want to get the contaminants out sooner than later.
Bullshit !!!
Facts! Exactly
Dude.. Blackstone analysis stops the guessing
@@jackchueh1231 The price for an an oil change will cove the cost of an analysis.
Keep you oil clean, you can see that by looking at the dip stick.
A single drop of oil from the dip-stick onto a clean coffee filter paper ( done in timeMileage sequence)will show the relative dispersion of different time/ mileage sample drops of oil. Not science, but practical and a lot quicker and inexpensive.
If you talk to mechanics who are taking these things apart, they notice the longer oil change intervals are not helping with engine longevity. Those longer intervals are good enough to get you through most warranties. Now the dealerships are off the hook for warranty work. Work that could have been prevented through more frequent changes. Mechanics are the ones in the trenches seeing what comes in.
I've read by an auto engineer that the thinner oils are meant to improve mileage, but are only only worried about the engine through the warranty like you said. My car holds 8.8q and I still change it every 5k. I drive hard and an engine is $20k. $90 bucks twice a years is just fine with me.
Most mechanics will rarely take an egine appart. The ones that do will do it as a specialty. Meaning: you have a huge selection bias. You will never see the engines that keep on goining.
@@ApaX1981that's so true.. you should see Toyota tech freaking out cause they have to change short block by the dozen when they haven't had to change engine in years let alone rebuilt one. They literally butcher the whole truck cause they never did something like this in such a long time.. scratch paint.. cracked grills... you name it. As for my oil ... 0w20 since new on my ecotec 3. Amsoil signature series every 10k km... now at 230k km and no issue whatsoever yet. Keep in mind I'm in Northern Canada where its cold more than half the year. 0w20 is golden for here. Warm up quick .. cool down quick. 5w40. Is what they use to race those engine and heavy duty 6.6 l8t is on 5w30 from the oem and have the same exact bearing than the 6.2 or the 5.3 that are on 0w20. It's all about range of operation and bearing clearance. Thin oil clean better in my belief.
there is no substitute for frequent oil changes, I don't care what brand of oil or what kind of genies they put in the bottle. Every vehicle has different sets of operating conditions and oils are made for an average set of conditions. You ask professional mechanics and they will not recommend the lengthy oil change intervals. Nothing tops a fresh plentiful quantity of oil.
And mechanics are much more knowledgeable than EPA bureaucrats and glorified salesmen.
If you put the wrong specification of oil into a D.I. engine, you'll blow chunks of the piston/rings into the oil pan. Be careful about that "genie in a bottle" phrase.
Thanks for bringing on an industry professional to try and dispel all the social media hype. I still personally like 5k oil change intervals. I feel like I use my vehicles a bit more rigorously, and giving me a reason to crawl underneath the vehicle every 5k to look things over while the oil is draining.
5K is _feelings_ 10k is SCIENCE
5K is always better.
I do 5K or 12months since I don’t drive much
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROADwatch the car care nut. He says 5K is always better
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROAD really depends on the specific use and what an oil analysis says. In lieu of that I like to be extra conservative at the detriment to my wallet and also for my human condition for wanting a more regular inspection.
@@naveenthemachineAgain you are trusting a Quick-Lube technician over an ACTUAL engineer and actual scientists who conduct experiments.
If the extended changes are so great on the engine why would one have to buy a engine oil restore to clean it up. It is because extended changes start to build up sludge and varnish in the engine.
You wouldn’t. That’s the interesting dilemma. Sludge is very rare UNLESS you have an actual engine problem, and if that’s the case oil change intervals are the least of your problems. Sludge is a byproduct of something bad going on with your engine, and it’s not the interval unless we’re talking about someone going 3 years and 50,000 miles (down 2 quarts without a care). Carbon will occur whether you change it frequently or not, it’s a byproduct of combustion and will build on piston lands and skirts. Varnish is meaningless and harmless. Restore and Protect is claiming to clean this (and carbon). It’s marketing. We all want “clean” and “the best”. Valvoline is taking advantage of things we want, and claiming they can give it to us. They are marketing geniuses and have always been. Mobil1 has made similar claims of cleaning potential, but they didn’t do a great job promoting it. There are many others as well. I think we will now see more oil companies follow suit with what Valvoline is doing because it’s working, people are now talking about Valvoline again.
@@doublebase6509When the oil is dark black I change it. If it smells gassy there is an injector problem
@@timothykeith1367 I don’t change oil based on color, but I do absolutely think the number one killer of engine oil is FUEL. Fuel dilution destroys oil and the engine if it gets bad enough.
@doublebase6509 god how wrong you are
@@Daniel-qe8qeso mechanics that pull the engines apart with 10k oil changes and see sludge and varnish are wrong 😂
The Engineer failed to mention . The primary cause of oil sheering out of grade is fuel dilution. What causes that? We've talked about it before, low tension piston rings and high pressure direct injection.
Most gasoline truck moved from 5-6 quart sumps, to 7-8 quart sumps. The reason for this is that, the OEMs know the oil will shear out of grade, the more oil in the pan, the better chance they have to make to to 7500 miles. Which BTW is all you'll get out of most modren oil life monitors. Not 10k.
@terrencejones9817.....The main reasons for higher sump capacity is "HEAT"! 40 PERCENT of the engine is cooled by the oil, such as PISTONS, RODS, CRANKSHAFTS, CAMSHAFTS ARE COOLED by OIL! More oil in the SUMP allows for more cooling!
@@1gr8oil Piston oil squirter have been comon for 20 years now. It's not about cooling. It's about oil lubrication and oil consumption.
Toyota increased the quantity because it gave better cooling
I changed my oil every 3000 miles because i enjoy doing it and its just what 40 bucks
Lake Speed Jr.
Guys, listen to this guy.
That’s exactly what I was going to say!
A tribologist that has helped design modern engine oil does not do 7500 to 10000 oil changes. That should tell you everything you need to know.
@@brianmaloney5430I thought he said he so going to go 10,000 miles on his daughter’s new Toyota now that it is past the break-in period.
Lake is an absolute must watch and listen.
@@brianmaloney5430 ......AMSOIL INC. has Many Tribologists and Chemists that have designed Engine oils that go beyond 10,ooo miles. There first Synthetic designed in the 90's and put on the market in 1972 was designed to go one year or 25,000 miles which ever came first, and they are sill on the market today! Engine oils can be developed for a "PRICE POINT", or long term, it just depends on how much the oil manufacturer wants to put into the oil, dollar wise.
Every 3,000 is my best on my 05 mdx 245,000 miles 😊😊😊😊no leaks, no burning of oil 😊
I had 698, 714 KM on a '91 VW Jetta Turbodiesel, changed oil/filter at VW recommended 8000KM intervals. I had no leaks, no burning oil, and the engine was still running great when an a-hole running a Red light destroyed the car. Best car i ever had, same clutch, trans/differential, same axle shafts. I put roughly 1100-1200KM weekly on it. 8000KM converts to about 4971 miles.
My 05 F150 4wd has 267k mis ..good basic maintenance for the win! 5k mi OCI full synthetic always. Top Tier rated fuels.
And 2,000 is better than 3,000 so there
@@jackchueh1231 - I know right? I if the logic "oil changes are cheaper than engines" is the answer to everything, you can't be too careful so maybe 1,500 OCI is what we should be doing. Seriously though I drive old cars that are new enough to run clean and efficient and have very short timing chains. No cam phasers and such. I know, I know I'm an old geezer. But if you have long complex timing chains and depend on the additives for hydraulic function for all I know 3k OCI is better. But that's one of the reasons I don't run engines like that. They're too high maintenance. IMO it defeats the purpose of cheap transportation to begin with. I get 29mpg on the highway and about 20 in my local commute it's good enough for me.
Wrenching with Kenny replaced a stretched timing chain on a GM ecotec with 211,000 miles. It appeared to be maintained well and the owner said the OCI was 5k. Maybe the owner was fudging a bit, I don't know. But the conclusion of Kenny was that the timing chain wouldn't have stretched if the change interval was 3k. But I wonder about that. But again, IMO justing having a long timing chain is a problem to begin with. It is going to be the weak point of the engine.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think I ever heard a word from the Vavoline engineer about going to 10,000 miles on an oil change interval. But I did pick up on the Restore and Protect infomercial format and the fact that lighter weight oils are more for epa milage figures than protecting your engine for the long term.
It is due to the additives in the oil.
When you start paying for my parts you can dictate my oil change interval until the I'm not going over 5k. Oil is cheaper then a engine. Also something you should ask the car manufacturer is the list of oils that a car can use because they may say use a 0w oil but the engine is build for a whole range of oils depending on your driving.
@@adamsmiths3016 Alright, sounds good. FWIW, it doesn't matter to me when you change your oil. I'm just sharing this interview for food for thought.
@@adamsmiths3016
Don’t conflate information as a demand. Live your life as you choose. The rest of us don’t care. Use the information or don’t. Your choice.
@@Pickuptrucktalk well why didn't you ask about 10k oil change intervals if the title of your video says that. Click bait much
Great video! Old philosophies about oil and change intervals have changed along with the engines themselves. Jason is spot on about modern oils and their requirements. Direct injection, tighter tolerances and coatings due to the goal of better mileage and lesser emmisions has caused oil manufacturers to step up their game. This new Restore product from Valvoline is the real deal, and is based on an earlier product that Valvoline developed for diesels. Lake Speed Jr. Is another expert in oil and piston ring technology (Total Seal) that has great videos on this subject. The tests of Restore and Protect not only removed carbon buildup from ring lands that plagued many GM LS engines that caused smoking and oil consumption, but removed varnish in the heads and valvespring areas too. The days of a summer and winter oil are long gone, replaced by way better engineering. My Detroit Diesel powered dump truck runs with 5w 30 oil much like modern pickups which would have been unheard of just a few years ago. The most important thing both in the past and now is to still have regular oil changes with quality oil and filters, both of which are still much cheaper than an engine overhaul or replacement.
Detroit what though?
Great interview Tim. You get better access to engineer and technical folks than any journalist I know of on youtube.
Well I have Honda accord with 355000 miles I ran 5 w 30 by Castrol magnetic brand sense new change every 3 k miles car still pulls like new and no blow by or smoke
We sold our 1989 Honda Accord at 225k miles. Mainly because I was tired of climbing into the trunk to change the fuel pump. (3 in 2 years). Wish I could have found a solid pump and kept it. That little four-banger ripped with no modifications!
I have an 06 TL and change it every 7k, when the light pops up. I use the recommended oil, new filter. No burn, no blow by, no problems. 229,000 miles.
That's great. It's nice to see people care about their cars I have an 07 ram 2500 tows everyday (mid range car transporter) 645k. oil changes every 5k. mobile 1 with 2 qt of Lucas oil stabilizer. Just did head gaskets, cylinders look amazing, no wear marks.
@@billkraemer4710 Did the same for my 08 TL. Ran great and used no oil (Mobil 1 always) for over 140,000 miles until my son totaled it. 🤣
@nhbountyhunter which motor is this out of curiosity?
I'm really enjoying my popcorn while reading these comments...
My Toyota RAV4 Owner Manual States:
"An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."
"Better Suited" pretty much says what they are recommending (0W-16) is not really good enough.
And Mazda owners manuals state 0w20, but only in USA and Canada 😉. Everywhere else, from sub-zero temps on up it clearly says 5w30 is the best choice.
Proof that our recommendations are EPA and CAFE driven, not engineer driven.
@RAV4Adventures2024.......Some Toyotas recommend 0W-12
@@1gr8oil Might as well just use water from the faucet.
Look at the owners manual outside of N. America (US/Canada) and you'll see they will mention a range of viscosities that can be used, whereas in the U.S. they will just mention one. Since noticing that I'm now ignoring that part of the manual.
I drive a 2014 F150 3.5 ecoboost with over 97k on it. I used to change my oil every 5k, but recently decided to go 3,500 instead. With the turbos running really hot with the combination the GDI, i'd rather be safe than sorry. Plus adding a catch can has helped pretty well thus far. I wanna run this truck as long as i can because it's paid off and i have zero plans on purchasing any new vehicle any time soon.
As for oil brands... i use either Valvoline Max life HM or Pennzoil ultra platinum. MY truck has been running so much smoother and quieter(the last 25k miles) than the Motorcraft the dealer used with free oil changes while it was still under warranty.
You run 5w30 or 0w40?
5W-30
@@bigpicturethinking5620 5W-30
Your eco boost is second gen I believe, which is dual injection, port and direct, so no worry about carbon build up like the 1st gen with direct injection only. Although i know guys around me with the first gen with no problems and over 160k.
@@ajmedeiros77 Unfortunately i'm still in the first Generation. The second Gen came out in 2017.
Subaru says "if the engine consistently fails to reach operating temperature within 10-15 minutes of driving, it may be considered as short trips." Short trips means "severe service", means 3k oil changes. They also specify a 6 month interval regardless of mileage.
They are 100% right! Do to condensate contamination. My work is only a couple of miles away. I proved this to myself with water in my oil. Synthetic oil gets contaminated like anything else. My vehicle doesn’t make to 3k and I change the oil. I do mine twice a year. Only drive about 5k a year.
They burn oil those Suburu engines old or new 😮
The best move I ever made with my 2014 FB25 Subaru was changing from the recommended 0w20 oils to 0w30 pennzoil platinum euro. I used to burn a quart every 1000 miles, now it only consumes an extra quart and a half, so even though 0w30 costs more it saves me money because I don’t have to buy 4 quarts between oil changes. I thought my MPG would go down but it’s still around 27. I actually think my mpg is better on the highway.
@@Davido50 Not sure where you're getting your misinformation. Our 2020 Forester has 53k miles on it and it still uses about half a quart in 5,000 miles. What's wrong with that?
I been working as a dealer technician for years. I respect your opinion and I am not a oil expert or an engineer. But what I do know is what I see on a daily basis coming in my busy shop. I see ALOT of 10k mile oil changes coming in. But I also see alot of premature engine failure and high amounts of engine sludge and a host of engine issues with these 10k mile oil change interval customers.
To be fair I also see a lot less engine issues with vehicles that maintain a 5000 mile or 6 months whichever comes first oil change interval.
I would recommend watching the motor oil geeks UA-cam channel. Lots of good info.
The frequency you change oil depends on a lot of variables.
Again, the Oil Geek has covered shelf life of oil and the separation of additives in oil over time sitting on the shelf!
so shake it up. It isn't like it leaked out on your garage floor/ or melted the container.
It isn't whole blood plasma you're injecting in you are folks. It is an oil change. I do mine every 3,000km by myself.
it's a cheap ain't item.
Well. Do what you want to do, and so will I.
Happy Happy eh?
I will not go over 3k between oil changes no matter who says different.
These 5 and 10k oil changes were created for manufacturers to claim lower cost of ownership BS.
I’ve never in 40 years had an engine failure.
Good quality engine + 3k oil changes = very long life engine.
The switch to 10K miles was mostly because of EU regulations on oil change frequency.
Thinner oil will not protect the same as thicker oil. The motor oil geek has a video comparing thin oil to thick oil in the same engine.
Yup and he confirmed that viscosity plays a role in wear protection. For daily drivers, especially in the summer heat, 5W30 is a no brainer.
@@hauseofraf I like 5w40 in my hemi.
And the lab analysis showed much more wear with thin oil.
All of us engine builders could have told you that! Every engine teardown on thicker oil has much less wear than those guys that use thinner oil believing they go faster:)
@@owenhill-vf7ko Thank you.
I have a Chrysler 200 (3.6L Pentastar V6) as a former daily driver that I've driven from around 15k miles to well over 200k miles. I've always followed the oil change reminder, which usually ended up around 7,500 miles (which I believe is the highest the computer will let it go) and used synthetic oil. After almost 250k miles of use, it doesn't consume or leak any oil, the used oil looks and smells fine, and the engine is smooth and quiet just like when I bought it all those years ago. It has never skipped a beat, and I can tell it has a ton of life left.
My newer daily driver, currently around 50k miles, also has a Pentastar 3.6L (why mess with success?) and the oil change reminder tends to go to nearly 10k miles. It knows the conditions in which the engine is operating and adjusts the interval accordingly, my other Pentastar proved itself honest--I trust it.
Maybe if I had a complicated tiny turbocharged 200hp/L DI engine (which I intentionally avoid) I'd be less confident, but on an ol' simple, proven workhorse of an engine, I'm not worried one bit. Every 3k would just be a waste of my time.
Tim good show for some reason. I am an oil geek myself. I love to research motor oil recently last week. I switched my brands that I’ve used for 30 years to Valvoline protect and restore. I’m testing it in my Ford 302 in my research includes lake Speed Junior, which also did a segment on this oil, also with a guy from Valvoline They also run it on a dino doing horsepower test different weights things of that nature. It’s really what made me switch again as Jason said switching weights maybe from a 5:20 to a 530 might not hurt but you don’t wanna go to far because today’s modern rings are much thinner and have less tension and heavier oil needs more tension on the piston rings, so don’t blow by most people think heavier oil better so won’t get by. Not true as far as my research shows again just my personal thoughts everybody has a different thought.
Buy a bore scope and look inside your engine. Otherwise you are guessing as to whether it does anything, good or bad.
same here, & I will definitely keep on using R&P
Thanks for asking all the questions we all wanted to know. Great content, man. 👍
Remember valvoline invented motor oil and they have a legacy they are proud to live up to.
I can change my oil myself for $40. I target 5k miles or once a year. Cheap insurance to keep the inside clean and functioning properly.
As for thin oil like 0W-20, I prefer more protection over a slight higher mpg. I prefer 0W-30 or 5W-30.
Engineer just told you 10k is more than safe and you cut that by 50% for "cheap insurance"?
Totally concur. You are the type of owner I am looking for when buying a used vehicle. Kudos to you!!!
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROAD Wish car would you buy, one with 5k or 10k oil changes?
I car is not just transportation to me. My Civic is just fine but my Corvette is special. I service them the same way. You say waste but I say my cars are better cared for. Best wishes.
Thicker doesn't mean better. Modern synthetic oil, even 0W16, provides better lubricity, thermal tolerance and wear protection than 10W30 conventional oil. And it goes without saying on a 0 degree morning 0W16 will flow many times easier and build oil pressure almost instantly compared to 10W30 or even 5W30.
Thats what I hoot for unless I’m on manufacturer schedule but switch to this interval when paid scheduled maintenance ends and I do. Always use rated oil weights and Mobil 1 with filter runs me @$35-$40 at walmart
Awesome explanation from the Engineer! Very informative.
Great content Tim. Thank you sir.
Been changing my oil and filter every 10k, without issues. Always used Mobil 1 performance synthetic, including their 10k mile filter. The first time I had to do a valve cover job, which involves removing the whole top end of the engine. Everything was clean as can be. No sludge, no oil caking, no soot. Engine was very clean, for 175k miles.
Carbon on pistons/combustion chambers verses intake valves, as per your guest, are two separate issues, largely unrelated. Restore and Protect can help minimize the valve buildup some, but port injection is still a very good way to help as well - that is pretty much what the Valvoline engineer said.
Annual top cylinder soaks are the oil-nerd thing to do. Can't hurt when you change the oil immediately afterwards. An inspection camera in a cell phone can't see coked rings. I'll add solvent multiple times in a weekend and the motor will smoke a few seconds on start-up.
@@timothykeith1367 That's why I still have my old port-injection auto, and will only buy a new car that has both port injection and GDI. On engines with both port injection and GDI, the port injection typically runs when idling to do cleaning.
Great content. Much appreciated.
Thanks, great vid. He was very informative.
I remember Valvoline 10 x 30 oil back in the 60's the Ford 352 360 390 loved that oil , it worked well for those old work horses .
I guess it’s all about how comfortable you are with oil change intervals…..you’re not going to any harm to your engine by changing your oil sooner rather than later…..if you sleep better at 5k intervals then fine….I’m staying with 5k intervals….I’m sure Valvoline will appreciate the business…
Restore & Protect is my new favorite 👍🏾
I just used it and immediately I hear lifter clicking noise.
@@fredf.5901 So how's it doing now? Has it Quieted down any? With "79% stronger anti-wear protection than industry standards (vs. GF-6 qualified oil)" I'd hope after it's used a couple trips... That it'd coat/clean at least a little bit. I've read/seen R&P reviews that had suggested it (R&P) was doing better then the previous Oil Fill with Engine Noise,Feel, and/or various Performance variables...
Not saying it is a Miracle Oil that eliminates whatever problem(s) you're experiencing, but that it is doing better then "other" oils. For example... My last Pennzoil Oil Change (Full Synthetic, not a Dexos1 rated Oil). Claimed like "40% better performance than conventional oil*"... Could mean a wide variety of things but it (Pennzoil Full Synthetic) does claim/warranty 10,000 mile interval* ....
I don't care what anyone says about full synthetic long intervals. Change it every 5,000 miles or 6mo, whichever comes sooner. And check your oil level regularly.
Thanks!
Been an Auto and Diesel tech for 34yrs. I noticed when you go 10k miles on an oil change per manufacturer suggested intervals the engines have more problems than engines that have oil changes at half the suggested miles. There’s engineered in a lab results, then there’s realistic results. I’ll stick with what’s realistic 👍🏻
1993 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport (158k), 2003 F150 XLT 4x4 (218k), 2018 Toyota Carmy (88k). All three get regular oil changes at or slightly before 5,000 miles. No synthetics. No exceptions.
All anecdotal, worthless information, my friend.
SE Michigan for the win! 💯 ❤
I don’t care how advanced the oil is. Does it purge all the dirt, carbon, fuel and impurities from the oil besides the filter doing so much? Nope. I’ll stick to shorter intervals.
Change every 3000 miles. Good oil. Decent filter. Treat to a fuel treatment at same time. Every 3rd change of oil maybe use a flush especially if older engine.
You'll never convince me to go further than 4,000 miles on a oil fill.
@@1FiftyOverland just curious where you came up with 4k as the absolute limit.
Sold the truck. What do you expect to cost $9k? Certainly not the engine.
@ALMX5DP That is a mileage I came up with based on all my automotive knowledge and experience.
@@1FiftyOverland anything to share about how that decision was made? Like why not 3k?
@@1FiftyOverland what’s interesting to me is everyone has a number. Scroll through the comments. Some are 3k, some 5k and your 4K. This doesn’t take into account all the vehicles that go 10k. Really interesting to me to see the disparity.
I am a hard headed old man as long as piston engines burn air and atomized gasoline I will change oil every 3000 miles. God has allowed me to still do it myself. I buy oil and filter at wally world. Valvoline
Wonder why with all the advances in egine oil, the warranties on engines havent been extened?
It all boils down to $$$$$$$
Manufacturer wants your engine to fail after the warranty has expired so you can buy a new vehicle from them.
Because they’re all about profit. Hell they’d rather not give a warranty at all if they could somehow still get people to buy their cars lol
Because he hey know many will fail, and that angers the car buyer, so free replacements rase some of that anger.
Because car manufacturers keep specifying thinner and thinner oil to improve gas mileage. Plus most engines are going to 4-cylinder Turbo now, which is a killer on engine longevity. Toyota specifies 0W-16 motor oil on most new cars, and even 0W-08 on some of their vehicles, all to improve gas mileage.
With new engines having turbos, you change oil to protect the turbo. Even the best oils get destroyed by the shear forces in a turbo. Non-turbo can go more than double the mileage with well formulated oils.
Thats a great ideal. I will do that 👍
It's not just the PCV system. EGR has a lot to do with carbon build up.
And EGR hurts part-throttle performance.
I've been rebuilding and running gas and diesel engines for over half century. It depends on the quality of fuel you use, maintenance overal and the environment you run in. In city, long runs, dirty environment. My advice is no more than 5kfor gas and 15k on diesel.
Folks THINK!!!!
Thin oil is about CAFE numbers.
10k OC is marketing low maintenance costs.
It will make it past warranty.
New Zealand specs on my 4rnr is 5w-30 and 5w-40 sever service.
EPA governs policy here.
5k OC 5w-30 on 4rnr and 5w-40 on f250 6.2l because it toqs 12k during shredding season.
So do your homework and you decide what works for you, not the dealer or government.
EPA does not govern policy. The mfg is free to recommend any oil they want.
@OtisFlint it's all based of govern.ent mandated CAFE numbers.
Good day.
Wish I coukd get restore & Prot over here in the UK, sounds exactly what I need
People complain about oil change cost. I told friends you need to change every six months and said i cant afford. Two loss their engines after less than 50,000 to 80,,000 miles all city driving in texas heat. Engine cost up too 5,000 dollars very expensive to compared too 720 dollars for 16 oil change cost., the oil change indicator will destroy your engine. My Honda says change oil 7500 miles i am retired so dont drive many miles. No oil change place will not put in your own oil.
My Lord oil changes are so simple and cheap its the life of your vehicle!!! Change it frequently. Most people fall under severe use driving conditions anyways without realizing it. 3k for me
Unfortunately, most new cars have added shields underneath the car to improve aerodynamics and eek out a tiny fuel mileage advantage, and getting those off and put back on is a bit of a pain on many cars.
@@Mark-rw3kw That's your cue to go grab an angle grinder and cut an access hole into it.😂 I hate those stupid covers and shitty manufacturers who don't already have an access port you can unbolt to get to the drain plug and filter.
Exploring guidelines for oil shelf life would be interesting .
Notice he said the direct injection is a separate issue from piston carbon buildup. Also some manufacturers are worse about carbon build up on the valves then others .. probably depending on if they have port injection or not.
I gotta give Toyota props for having both DI and PFI
Ford also on the 3.5l, 2.7l and 5.0l@@rockkstah2550
@@rockkstah2550 Hyundai is moving in that direction also with their Smart Stream engines. But the Hyundai engines use one injector to do both GDI and FI. Early Hyundai GDI engines were notorious for carbon buildup on intake valves.
I change oil in my vehicles twice a year, spring and fall, regardless of miles. I've been doing that for decades. They have over 200k, 300k miles on original drivetrain. Also, I change fluids in transmission and differentials evey 5,000 miles.
I change oil and rotate tires every 5,000 miles, I figure oil is cheap enough and if I'm doing a little extra then hopefully my engine will last a little longer and it just helps me keep up with the tire maintenance also.
So excluding mall crawlers, anyone that uses their truck as a truck should run a higher viscosity. (at 4-7 min) For example, coyote mustang use 5-30, but PP & Boss use 5-50.
I came here for the comment from the "expert" backyard mechanics. "Back in 1968 when everything was made better and we used oil straight out the ground....." 😂
Lmao!!! And they paid a quarter for a candy bar!
The stupidity in the comments is amazing!
After listening to Lake Speed Jr., I’m dropping from 5K to 3K immediately. Always felt these longer oil changes were bs but never knew what that guy knows. Oil changes are cheap.
Jason “Head”… what a bad ass name.
🗣️🗣️🗣️
@@loganhead804 bad ass!
What your not telling is the oem's are receiving additional credits for CAFE promoting longer oil intervals.
CAFE is fuel economy... not emissions, not "oil change intervals". Education is key 😉
After doing some research, I find your comment to be true which was surprising to me. Cafe standards usually are for fuel economy, but the disposal of fossil fuels has an impact on the environment and they do get credits for lengthening the oil change interval. That's really not a good thing in this situation. Thanks for surfacing that point!
And I'll be d--ned if I listen to the EPA.
@@jamesbosworth4191 oh I would listen to the EPA. I'm a tree hugger..
@@mikesawyer1336 I love trees too. They provide life-giving oxygen, without which we wouldn't be able to live, but most EPA bureaucrats don't know squat about cars and act like they HATE cars, so how can you listen to them about how to maintain a car? That's like asking a plummer how to perform Open-Heart surgery.
The wild card variable is if you pay another to change the oil and filter there is risk.. yeah leave the oil out. Leave filter loose. Drain the transmission and not the oil pan.
So since say 1970 I know of a couple dozen folks that had engines ruined..mostly by 1 hour oil places.
You really need to watch the process to make sure they complete the job. Always stick the oil to make sure they filled it, or over filled it. I do my own, but my father had a quick change do it. He got home and found they didn’t change the filter.
@@Norm100ful A Buddy with his new 1985 Mustang 5.0 V8 got the oiled changed by the dealer. He drove from LA to San Diego and back and the manual transmission got ruined. They had drained the manual transmission and added some oil to the engine. But he did get a NEW oil filter with this Dealer oil change.
So it took 6 weeks to get a new manual transmission since the one a month old got ruined by idiot dealer techs via no oil.
So after 6 weeks he got his car back and lived the fine life of an Engine that also burned a quart of oil every 250 to 400 miles.
That is why the dealer wanted to change the oil sooner since the thought was maybe their magic will fix bad rings.
Another coworker had a new 85 mustang and it got 1500 miles per quart so say 5 Times better
Yet another coworker bought a new 85 Ford Tempo and it too burned oil a quart per tank of gas
Ford said to both the oil burner guys that the engines were just being broken in
You need to talk to Brian at BND Automotive he’s a oil and fuel additive guru, I buy his oil for my 2023 tundra , Hoping it doesn’t have a problem.
How about 3,333 Mile oil change interval. Also very easy to remember no matter where you are. This is what I’m doing until I do oil analysis with restore and protect on my 2024 Camry hybrid. Motor on and off can be severe use. So I will see how it works after I’m done with break in …
Im fine with thinner oil on trucks and cars that dont ever get the rpm over 4k. But what about performance oriented vehicles? I have a 2024 GR Corolla that pushing 25 psi of boost and oil analysis showed a big difference in wear between 0W20 and 5W30. The wear dropped by double when using 5W30 and oil pressure barley even went up. So im confused in terms of high performance vehicles and why using thin oil might not be so good on turbocharge or supercharge vehicles.
I think like mentioned OEMs often prioritize fuel economy when determining oil specifications. But like he said sometimes they also specify a heavier weight for circumstances where higher loads or heat occur. I don’t think there is anything mentioned about that for the GRC but Ford does for their Mustang (I think going from 5w30 to 5 or 15w50 for track use). Probably not a bad idea to use that if you’re okay with the fuel economy hit (likely less than 1mpg anyways).
@@ALMX5DPThe fuel economy hit has only been about .5 mpg and the car already gets 28 mpg so im fine with that. Its just annoying that they use scare tactics saying that you have to uses this oil and nothing else or your engine will explode.
If your oil lab results show less wear and you're not getting fuel contamination, I'd stay with a quality 5w30
@@ResistculturaldeclineFuel contamination went down from a 1.4 to lower then .5
@@N1Filter Beautiful
135,000 on 14 5.0 F150 sevear use, change oil every 3500 miles truck runs like new.
Most expert mechanics will all tell you no on the 7500 and 10000 mile oil changes. They have seen the inside of the newer engines and failers from the extended intervals
Public school education... scientists analyze oil and engine wear NOT stealership quick-lube techs. Scientists do the actual, factual testing. Billy-Bob the mechanic has zero clue what oxidation is or means.
You mean the people selling oil changes want more oil changes? Shocking.
Not a engineer a tribologist. You do realize that the oems receive café credit for promoting longer oil changes. There are many master mechanics that see the oil sludging up in modern engines that push for 7500 and 10k oil changes. Also they have seen the low tension piston rings get stuck do to extended oil changes. When this happens the engine starts burning oil. You do realize the valvoline engineer never said it's ok to 10k miles. What about the lifetime tranny fluid gm and ford push? Many people who believe this have tranny failer between 80k and 120k miles.
It's always in the lab under controlled environment. Bot rear world city driving.
@@LexusGX460-OFF-ROADyou don't need to be a scientist or engineer to know what sludge and varnish buildup looks like. Perhaps the engineers need to pull apart some engines that have been serviced at their recommended intervals so they can see for themselves.
I will say have only used Valvoline in my two 2013 accord lx's. One has 203k, the other 177k, and absolutely ABUSE the 177k car, wife drives the 202k car. Both run like new, I do change CVT every 30k as well.. I am completely shocked the CVTs have lasted this long. All highway, 90mi round-trip commute 5 days per week. I dont stop when I leave my driveway until I exit interstate at my work exit. 34min avg travel time one way. I consistently run 100mph or greater in stretches.. CVT is quite responsive and fun at high speeds. Cars will do in excess of 130mph, afraid to push any higher due to tire ratings..
In Canada provincial highway maintenance trucks from 6 cylinder 4.3 to cat engines to graders loaders crawlers use 15x40 oil every 300 hours on diesels and 100 hours on gas pots the 4.3 GM motors last 600.00 KM and more , but it takes 3 transmissions 4 fuel pumps 1 rear end , but by then the rest of the truck is rotten .
What intrigues me in the American forums and incursions is the low milage oil changes many claim doing.
Then thinking 200,000 miles is high milage.
In the old pre 2000 Japanese engines in small trucks we serviced at 6 to 7000 miles and got 450,000 miles out of those engines most every time.
Toyota , Nissan , Mitsubishi.
It is a lot harder to get that much mileage out of an engine with GDI and if Turbo-charged, especially if using manufacturer specified 0W-16, or 0W-08 motor oil (0W-08 is now specified on some Toyota's). The old days are long gone.
I drive a 2015 Mazda 6 with 450,000 miles on the clock and it still runs and shifts great. I change my oil every 5,000 miles and use the recommended 0w20 grade oil and am generally brand agnostic. I have used Walmart SuperTech for the past 150,000 miles and the gold Fram filter. For my last oil change,I used the new Valvoline Restore and Protect and took some before pics along with performing a compression test on all 4 cylinders. Will repeat the pics and compression test after 3 oil changes to see if any changes/improvements.
@@scooterwoodley195 Personally, I think it is a little dangerous to start using a motor oil with new additives in it after 450,000 miles. If there is any carbon buildup on the piston rings, the carbon may be filling in gaps from engine wear after that many miles, and it may do more harm than good to remove the carbon.
You obviously do highway driving which is much easier on oil than short drives which results in more raw fuel in the oil and less moisture burn off. Can you say sludge?
I once drive a car for 5 yrs without changing the oil, then I scrapped it. I never checked the oil either. I knew whenever the engine blew it wasnt a big deal because I was looking for a new car anyway. I wished I would have popped the valve cover to take a look now.
What a waste....😮
I run 5,000 miles with rotella oil.
So many recent engine oil videos don't address the cold start and most engine wear occurs at startup belief/narrative. I would like to see this addressed, especially in respect to thinner winter weights vs heavier winter weights.
Thinner oil (lower viscosity on the first number) affects how quickly it will flow in cold weather. The lower the number the better it flows at cold temps. But it depends on how cold you are talking about as to whether it is a big problem. Cars in far northern areas that are not parked in a garage overnight, will definitely benefit from a 0W motor oil. Other than that, i think worrying about start-up oil flow in moderate or warm climates is over-exaggerated. I use 5W-30 synthetic in my 15 year old car, and it has never used any oil in-between oil changes (based on dipstick readings). But I live in a moderate climate and park my car overnight in a garage attached to my home.
Dealerships is the higher oil change intervals to save money. 5k miles or less. It’s your car, do what is best. We all have different driving conditions.
Not only the various hydraulic systems, but the new breed to lighter rings don't like heavy oil at all. The rings need to scrape the oil off the cylinder walls and control how much is remaining. Too heavy a grade will leave too much behind to burn, causing a lean condition.
Oil consumption doesn't cause a lean condition, it causes you to have to add oil between changes, causes carbon build up, and can cause you to fail a smog check.
I'm going to use Valvoline restore and protect next change. My 06 CVPI calls for 5w20 but my plan was to switch to 5w30. You see any issue w that or any benefit. Car has 258k miles and runs great not rebuilt.
Watch out for leaks if you haven’t been using synthetic oils. Aggressive cleaning may remove the carbon sealing the gaskets.
Bring the motor oil geek on for a interview.
He sells oil analysis. He endorsed 0W-8 oil based on oil analysis. What could be more crazy than that?
@@verlaryder Your boomer logic, with 0 supporting data, is crazier than that. Modern additive packages mean film strength is no longer determined by the viscosity of the base oil. We can use very thin oil and get far better protection than older tech thicker oils. The data proves it, the engineers prove it, and you have NO data to show that 0W8 is a problem in engines that are designed for it.
He just proved 0w-8 is good. He does not get paid to sell oil. He has actually help formulate for some big oems and some Nascar teams. He backs all is test on science not speculation. Why would a guy that has formulated modern oil not to extended oil changes? The oems get extra cafe credits to push out the intervals.
He gets paid to sell oil analysis and paid again by UA-cam to make videos promoting analysis. Analysis doesn't measure critical things; like when gummy deposits are starting for form on critical engine parts causing oil flow restrictions that result in ruined engines: imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/5885/lWXnOK.jpg
@@verlaryderMore crazy is making decisions on mythology rather than data. THAT is more crazy.
Makes me wonder though, being the last of the motor oil companies with their own engine lab for testing. That's because most testing is usually done by an "independent" lab, to prevent any bias.
If you cut their recommended oil change interval in half, over the life of the vehicle what are you saving? Maybe a $1000? Doesn't seem too expensive long term for the potential problems you might avoid.
Any issues with main seal leaks that are old and possibly getting seal integrity help from the carbon buildup?
I think it was about a month ago I mentioned to you that manufacturers of gasoline engines and gasoline distributors are battling two fronts. The first being gasoline creates a certain type of carbon buildup within the engine, and the engine itself builds up a completely different type of carbon within the engine. So we're dealing with two completely separate carbon deposits. You might be saying carbon is carbon well that is completely false. The carbon created by the combustion process, using gasoline structured completely differently than when some oil blow by goes through the PVC system, and is burnt along with the fuel and air mixture. Engine oil is a lot heavier and near the bottom of the fractional distillation process of crude oil whereas gasoline, which was it is originally a gas byproduct from the creation of kerosine. it was in the early 1900s that at that time there was no real demand for gas online. it was simply lit up with the torch during the fractional distillation process and burnt as an overburden waste product. Shortly after that Henry Ford, though originally chose to use ethanol for his MODEL T car production in Detroit, Michigan with corn red grown throughout all of Michigan and Ontario Canada. The combustibility of cooling down or condensing, the gas vapours created from or after kerosine was when he changed his mind, and went with gasoline to run his engines so the story goes and the rest is history. I think that we would be using ethanol to this day Had he chosen otherwise? HELL NO LOL. There was simply a lot more money to be made from the fractional distillation process of crude oil. It was considered black gold coming from the ground. It's my understanding that this Valvoline engine oil which I still have to pick up in Port Huron already paid for but live in Canada cleans, mainly and maybe only the oil carbon buildup within the engine simply put the engine oil can get to so much the top of the pistons, which can simply be cleaned with a good quality inexpensive fuel additive with Esther every so often if one is using a non-top-tier fuel station gasoline. This is why it's so important to you and not only clean the carbon from within the engine itself during the course of several oil changes because of this stuff worked too quick then there would be a lot of clogged filters from the millions of engines uncared for with less knowledgable consumers adding insult to injury by using shitty gasoline, which will eventually create excessive carbon buildup on top of piston head itself, and opening a whole new can of worms to the scenario as you will know. I do realize you have to do the interview and you may or may not have remembered my comment or been able to read it as far because I'm sure you're busy. Thank you for the informative videos such as this one... I eat this type of information up for breakfast lol I need to get a life...
I find it weird. I've seen many v twin motorcycles with 80 to 100 000 miles on them and running smoothly. My point is that there are fewer additives in motorcycle oil because of the wet clutch. So maybe less is more 🤷♂️
Different oils for different reasons. Valvoline explains it: www.valvolineglobal.com/en-ksa/the-complete-guide-to-choosing-motorcycle-engine-oil/#:~:text=Second%2C%20car%20engine%20oils%20contain,deposits%20and%20harm%20their%20components.
my 1991 GMC 1500 with the 5.7 runs on propane I change it once a year but then I only put on 6 KM in that time .
I got my dod deleted on my Silverado i don't have all that afm trash in my 5.3 no more
I was hoping that he might describe in some detail how the Restore and Protect differs from their other oils. Is it basically just a higher level of detergents in the additive package? Also, regarding these long oil change intervals, is the darkening of the oil as it gets older due, at least in part, to the buildup of soot(fine Carbon particles) in the oil? If so, would these very small abrasive particles, that pass through the oil filter, possibly damaging to small highly-loaded bearing surfaces in places like the valve train?
I'm working on a follow-up on the Restore and Protect. I can't answer the other.
@@Pickuptrucktalk Thanks.
Based off my experience in the years I've been in the automotive industry as a automotive technician and primarily a heavy line power train technician. Just last year alone we did over 100 engine replacements in our small shop. I would say the vast majority of these engines that were replaced was because of premature engine failure and the vast majority were extremely dirty inside the engine lots of sludge the vast majority had a oil change interval 10,000 miles or even more history. So based off my experience and what I'm seeing every single day they I personally disagree and I think 10,000 mile oil change interval is not a good idea.
I have a 2022 tundra and the first one at 1,000 miles and all the rest at 3,000 I only use Valvolines 0w20
I think they don't want to pay dealerships anymore for oil changes. My truck had 5k intervals. After COVID and free oil changes expired they said I had to do it every 10k. I almost slapped the dude. How he come up with that answer 😂 after I was doing it for 3 years at 5k at the dealership!
I'm hoping the new restore & protect will help
Did he infer that crude oil is not black? Working in a refinery, I have only ever seen black crude oils from all over the world. Now, clear crude may exist, but black crudes are by far the most common. Cmon guys
He misspoke.
What i see as a mechanic i see this new valvoline restore and protection. I see it benefits for crank, rods, valves train components lifter, ring valley. Cylinder wall, timing chain and tensioner it will clean all the majority of engine. But will not clean valves or carbon problems in these newer engines. If u want clean engine or new engine to stay clean valvoline restore and protect will do it. Change your oil at 5k miles with good filter u will be fine.
It’s $50 for an oil change. Why push it to the max with a 10k change?? These are max intervals that you see in the owners manual.
I don’t understood the mindset of people spending 50K plus on a vehicle and then try to save a nickel by maxing out your oil interval.
I use nothing else. Valvoline is a great oil. In the past, I've tried others and my vehicle always feels off. Switch back to Valvoline and over time, it works itself out.