How Do I Make Grid Beam?
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- Опубліковано 22 чер 2011
- I actually got some pretty epic feedback a little while ago from another youtuber asking me how I fashioned my grid beam components.
I've come a long way from the early days of measuring each stick individually. I now utilize a nifty DIY template made of right angle aluminum to make perfect measurement a snap! Take a look! - Наука та технологія
Hi, I assume the holes are equally spaced? If so, you could have used an indexing pin instead of a template. Basically, you use a piece of wood and drill a hole in it, and put a dowel in that hole so it sticks up. Clamp this to your drill press table with the dowel the exact distance from the drill bit as your hole to hole spacing. Drill your first hole in the stock and move it over onto the dowel. Drill the next hole and move it over, etc.
I am trying to build some shelving using gridbeams. I was recently introduced to the DMS and plan to become a member if/when I get a car. I got a drill press yesterday and am going to try my hand at making some sticks. Thanks for your help.
In addition to the wood block stopper on the back of the drill platform, just make a think (1/2" or so) strip which lies in front of the stopper. Drill a hole in this strip, insert a short bit of dowel, perhaps 1". Then, once you've drilled you first hole, you place that hole over the little bit of dowel sticking up from the strip, and drill again. Lather, rinse, repeat. This would ensure the exact same spacing for every single hole.
Duuuuude. Kick ass! That's a much simpler system than the one I was cooking up that used gearing and many drills lol. Do you route the edges of your 2x4s after they've been cut to 2x2s? to make the corners nice and smooth?
I think your next video should be some tutorials on how to make a simple object, right now I really need to build a sturdy table that has wheels on it, I was hoping to make it my first Grid Beam project.
Nice method! My only complaint is your comment about using a tape measure because the "ends come loose". They are supposed to be that way so you can get an accurate measurement for inside and outside measurements. The "loose end" compensates for the thickness of the metal catch. Google it. Other than that, nice video, thanks!
@ContriteDiscursion No way! Where at?! If it's anywhere near Vancouver BC you should do a work shop!
@40Mcollins It seems pretty tedious but in the long run I have complete flexibility with the parts. Albeit there are some things that this kind of universal component can't do. Like curves. It can do a myriad of other handy things.
@enticed2zeitgeist It really depends on how much space and money you have. When I bought my drill press I was extremely limited on both. The brand I use is Skil, I think it was just a little over $100 U.S. The only problem I've had with it is its laser targeting tool. It worked fine when I bought it but ever since I moved it's not worked properly. I've just gotten real good at eyeballing where my marks are. For grid beam I'd argue a drill press is a necessity.
I'll be in canada next month! :D
Hey! Glad to hear the DMS is still going out there. I think they were working on a CNC machine a while back, that'd actually be the absolute best way to go about doing it I think. The pieces I've made are really versatile and have served me well. But I don't think I want to continue working with grid beam as it is. I've actually discovered a new thing that was invented by the grandaddy of grid beam Ken Isaacs. The panel matrix! Check out "How to Build Living Structures" free PDFs online.
@enticed2zeitgeist I had a similar idea when I was going to start manufacturing this stuff en masse. The template really was directly inspired by the folks at the Dallas Makerspace, if you're looking for some really cool people that build stuff I really recommend looking up a space near you, they may have some tools that are too expensive to get on your own, think of it like an open source workshop. :)
I don't use a router, mostly just sand it a little. I'll think of a project for you. ;)
@ContriteDiscursion I'm up in Canada. I've never heard of Makerspace. I'm thinking about purchasing a nice drill press for this kind of construction stuff. Do you have any recommendations?
Great jig but why do u bother drilling loads of holes in every project?
@jpheisz I have been working on that actually, Just got back from vacation so I haven't messed with it much lately. check it out on my channel, it's grid beam speed jig version 1.0
instead of marking all the holes would it be easyer to drill the first hole and then put this hole on a pin and drill the next hole and thenput it on the next hole and on and on and on
There will be a consistent bit of error with every hole drilled. Over a long piece, the errors will add up to be significant. If you drill 20 holes, you'll get 19 times the error. Andrew's method avoids that problem.
I use a carefully drilled piece of grid beam to control the hole placement in a jig that mounts on my drill press. That way the error doesn't add up...unless making sticks longer than the template (which is 4 feet at the moment). Even then, the error is only multiplied by 2 for an 8-foot stick. It works nicely and, to me, seems like it would be faster than what Andrew explains here.
Mark Fox Actually on a 4' length of grid beam one can almost get zero error using the pin method. First off I drill my holes 5/16" OC. I use 2 5/16" bits. One is mounted in the chuck the other used as a pin. Now I have made a jig out of 2 pieces of 1/2" mdf, 2" strip mounted to be used as a 1/2" high fence.
Measure, mark validate the center of one of the ends. Drill the hole. Place a stop block against the piece, clamped to the table. Rotate the piece 90 deg, drill again. Flip end for end repeat the process. 4 holes on both ends of the piece. Remove the stop block.
Measure, mark validate the center on the next adjacent set of holes. Bore the first one preferably with the piece clamped against the fence. LEAVE THE BIT IN THE PIECE. With the second bit insert it into one of your first end holes so that is aligns with the face of the top of the fence. Slide a stop bearing gently against the drill face. Immobilize that block by your method of choice. (I use glue and screws) Pull the pin. Insert in the 90 deg face of the end hole. Raise the chuck. Rotate the piece. Slide the pin against the stop. Drill. Repeat the process for 2' of the 4' piece. Flip end for end and repeat again.
Doing it this way:
* There is minimal drift as one is using pins the same size as the hole being drilled. Nearly perfect registration if done right for the first 8 holes.
* Drilling from the end to half way minimizes what drift there maybe.
* At best any drift is merely a shift from inaccurate drilling of the second hole pattern in the piece.
Another thing which should be obvious -- do you need all the holes? For many projects I use what I call 'speed stick'. I drill the two ends of the piece just as if I was doing gridbeam. After that I do a set of 4 holes on 6" centers. For many projects like benches and the like its all you need. And it can still interact with regular gridbeam parts. Its what Ken Issac's did.
***** I should really do a video of my jig. My trick is to use 80/20's holey
tube for the jig. I drill the first hole on two orthogonal faces, then
put a pin in one of the holes and use that to index into the holes in
the jig. It works great and never wears out.
Personally, I drill all the holes as much of my stuff is for jigging and
prototyping. So the flexibility of a complete set of holes is useful.
An MP3 player chock full of audiobooks and podcasts keeps me from going
full-on crazy while drilling.
But grid beam screams for a CNC router of some kind. I'm working on it.
Mark Fox I probably should do a vid of mine as well. Though I have to say, your method sounds a tad faster. I have also considered using metal tubing as the indexing jig along with an appropriate bushing and router. (But the cheap a...... that I am, I have not spent the $ for the tubing as yet.)
I too have thought of a CNC router rig to do this. But time and $ are somewhat lacking at the moment. I also do all out gridbeam as either the project requires it or I have the extra times to do all the holes. Its just a lot of my beam-like projects don't require it.