Again, in the old lab! And Missy mentioned. Thanks for the great tips - you can never know it all :) Cute effect, sooooo sweet indeed. Interesting technique of doing the faceplate design. I first did my frontpanels with felt pen (still do that sometimes if I don't want to go on designing the whole panel in a graphics program), then laser-printed sticky foil (that's how I did VS-1), and now I use non-sticky projection foil with some polymer glue. Was considering silkscreening but it's not really that good for one-offs - would do it for serial production though. And I was also considering laser engraving stained and anodized aluminum, like they do at Manley Labs. I wouldn't glue standoffs - instead, it's more likely I'll use a conical head screw under the frontpanel if I want to go for a nice look. Using perfboards into oblivion too. Sometimes gluing the caps, sometimes using saddle mounts for zip ties. Measuring the rail resistance is definitely a good practice! It doesn't prevent all fuckups you may get, but at least guards against some. Using a PSU with current limiter is a good idea too. For mains-powered devices, a dim bulb tester is indispensible. Got a bunch of cables for testing: BNC to 1/4", BNC to 2xRCA... Kinda annoying, and I'll be doing it a different way: make a breakout box with every type of connector I may think off (1/4" TS, balanced TRS, stereo TRS, XLR M & F, RCA, DIN) and a level meter & BNC connector for feeding the signal from a generator to audio devices. Taking note before undoing connections is a good idea if there's any chance you'll leave the circuit in the discombobulated state. Too easy to forget. Wrench-wise, I prefer box and socket wrenches. Clumsy as I am, they vastly reduce the risk of letting a tool slip and damage the parts around, or the panel... which still sometimes happens, unfortunately. Using a spatula is an interesting idea; got one in my lab. Might come in handy when I get down to restoring a box on one '50s radio I've got kicking around.
I watched one of your older videos where you made some brass knobs on your lathe. When you finished the knob there was a small leftover nib sticking out. Usually that's indicative of the tool not being properly centered to the stock. I just wanted to give you a tip you may not be aware of. With the lathe off, take a steel 6 in. machinists rule, hold it flat and vertical against the stock and gently run your X-axis in to contact the rule with the tool pinched against the stock. The rule will indicate by tilting off vertical if the tool is not centered. When the tool is centered the rule will be perfectly vertical. There is a video here on YT how to do it. It's called _Centering a lathe tool_ The name of the channel is Michael Matticks.
Oh yes, the old machinists tool height trick. I learned that back in the early sixties when apprenticed at Thornycroft, a truck manufacturer in Basingstoke (UK) and still use it today. 😁
Nice to still have n.o.s. switches for design and period correctness, but will the plastic age reduce the switch's MTBF? Cool to get the repair by the original designer & builder by the way!
I love how you've hung on to some of your vintage equipment, from your scope to your "bent" wrench. Noticed your multi-meter is a bit more modern (from Australian Dave). I've been tempted to get one from him just to test. I'm a new subscriber. Thanks for an interesting video.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
i was a skateboarder in the late 80s, we used shoegoo all the time on our sneakers.
love your work
Hmmmm... 🤔 I would have re-glued the label while the switch was out! 😃
Again, in the old lab! And Missy mentioned. Thanks for the great tips - you can never know it all :)
Cute effect, sooooo sweet indeed.
Interesting technique of doing the faceplate design. I first did my frontpanels with felt pen (still do that sometimes if I don't want to go on designing the whole panel in a graphics program), then laser-printed sticky foil (that's how I did VS-1), and now I use non-sticky projection foil with some polymer glue. Was considering silkscreening but it's not really that good for one-offs - would do it for serial production though. And I was also considering laser engraving stained and anodized aluminum, like they do at Manley Labs.
I wouldn't glue standoffs - instead, it's more likely I'll use a conical head screw under the frontpanel if I want to go for a nice look.
Using perfboards into oblivion too. Sometimes gluing the caps, sometimes using saddle mounts for zip ties.
Measuring the rail resistance is definitely a good practice! It doesn't prevent all fuckups you may get, but at least guards against some. Using a PSU with current limiter is a good idea too. For mains-powered devices, a dim bulb tester is indispensible.
Got a bunch of cables for testing: BNC to 1/4", BNC to 2xRCA... Kinda annoying, and I'll be doing it a different way: make a breakout box with every type of connector I may think off (1/4" TS, balanced TRS, stereo TRS, XLR M & F, RCA, DIN) and a level meter & BNC connector for feeding the signal from a generator to audio devices.
Taking note before undoing connections is a good idea if there's any chance you'll leave the circuit in the discombobulated state. Too easy to forget.
Wrench-wise, I prefer box and socket wrenches. Clumsy as I am, they vastly reduce the risk of letting a tool slip and damage the parts around, or the panel... which still sometimes happens, unfortunately.
Using a spatula is an interesting idea; got one in my lab. Might come in handy when I get down to restoring a box on one '50s radio I've got kicking around.
Those pedals videos are really great! Love all the stories ❤ would also really enjoy videos about your custom hifi stuff and your current setup
love the tape labels on your 564!
Keep ‘em coming
Shoe goo was great! I think it was naphtha based.
great fix
I watched one of your older videos where you made some brass knobs on your lathe. When you finished the knob there was a small leftover nib sticking out. Usually that's indicative of the tool not being properly centered to the stock.
I just wanted to give you a tip you may not be aware of. With the lathe off, take a steel 6 in. machinists rule, hold it flat and vertical against the stock and gently run your X-axis in to contact the rule with the tool pinched against the stock. The rule will indicate by tilting off vertical if the tool is not centered. When the tool is centered the rule will be perfectly vertical.
There is a video here on YT how to do it. It's called _Centering a lathe tool_ The name of the channel is Michael Matticks.
Oh yes, the old machinists tool height trick. I learned that back in the early sixties when apprenticed at Thornycroft, a truck manufacturer in Basingstoke (UK) and still use it today. 😁
Nice to still have n.o.s. switches for design and period correctness, but will the plastic age reduce the switch's MTBF?
Cool to get the repair by the original designer & builder by the way!
👍
I love how you've hung on to some of your vintage equipment, from your scope to your "bent" wrench. Noticed your multi-meter is a bit more modern (from Australian Dave). I've been tempted to get one from him just to test. I'm a new subscriber. Thanks for an interesting video.
Ótimo vídeo congratulações
Nicely done Fran
i love her. She is so coool
Fran Lab 1.0 all the space you had. An old video but a great rerun !!! 👍
Magnifying Table Lamp Stainless Steel ----on your workbench .....Model #.....Link to purchase for my ageing eyesight, Please.
Shoe Goo is still around. Still smells like rotting meat. 🤢