This guy was very through did a excellent job on replacing the motor . We need more good videos like this to show viewers all the things that they need to know to do it right.
I did a 23 hp vanguard repower kit as a cheaper option and couldnt be happier....only difference is rewiring the voltage regulator and i have a aftermarket pto clutch where i had to make a shim for it to fit perfectly. Great video
Great detailed instructional video! I ordered a new engine from Carrol Stream and swapped it today. I have never done this before and it worked perfectly. Much more helpful than the 3 min swap video on the company’s website.
I have the exact same mower and the Kawasaki engine too. I had to do a head gasket and valve adjustment, plus install a hela-coil on the head. It continually backfired when turning it off. Found out I needed to leave the mother running at a faster speed when shutting down so the extra fuel would be burned and then there would be no backfiring. Also, I left the heat shield off on the right side because grass and weeds get trapped in there, and blowing it out will NOT remove it. Therefore, the cylinder gets hotter and also will not have the airflow it needs to remain cool. You obviously have experience in motors and rebuilding them. This was my first motor since high school and that was in 1974 with a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine single cylinder. You did a great job in your explanations and demonstrations.
I had the same thing happen with a deere z665 24 hp kawasaki... A mouse had made a nest under the plastic shroud and packed grass around the cooling fins. I took mine apart and yes the push rods on cylinder number 1 was bent where the grass was packed. The valve seat was moved so i replaced one head 2 push rods head gasket exhaust gasket intake gasket and valve cover gasket. In parts all was just over 300.00 dollars. I also drilled 2 holes on the shroud and installed 2 plugs for inspection covers. That was 200 hrs ago and still running good...
Thank you for this detailed video. I’ve got a John Deere 717A with a Kawasaki FS601. I’m assuming order to upgrade to an FX600V, all you’d need to do is swap over the starter & voltage regulator from the old engine to the new one?
Yes, John Deere changed the voltage regulator starter and oil pressure switch to be more... proprietary to the Deere name. You will likely have to use your original wiring harness as well
If I recall right there are 2. 1 is shorter and fatter and sits almost right above or next to the governor shaft. I believe that one is for choke linkage. The other one is very long and thin. It sits on opposite side of throttle plate from the governor and attaches to end of actuator arm that is attached to the governor.
Hi, some questions. First is you mentioned the fails that the original motor can experience. Most importantly the cooling issue of the heads which can cause the slipped valve guides and subsequently bent pushrods. I see that the new motor doesn't have the access panels on each side of the front black plastic shroud, same as the old motor, that allow for blowing out the front of the head cooling fins. Has Kawasaki addressed this on the new motor? If not, I see that the same issue of dust and debris collecting in the front of the heads/cooling fins will be an issue. Second thing. What did you do with the old motor? I am trying to find an original carb for this motor. Kawasaki no longer makes the carb and there is no superseded model. JD claims to have them but huge cost. Nice video, thanks.
You are correct. The valve guides fail causing the pushrod to bend. But the heat issue generally starts as the crank bushing fails causing the crank seal to leak. Then oil and debri clog the cooling fins causing the cascade of events. There doesn't appear to be any further improvements by Kawasaki to address keeping those heads clear. To me, the best thing is to blow them out every time you're done mowing. Prior to wear causing oil to soak the area all debri does blow out easily. I unfortunately don't have any extra parts. I have one 23hp carb but planned on keeping it as a spare for the exact reason you mentioned. Thanks for watching the video, hope it helped you.
My original motor was rebuilt, then swapped into a buddies Ztrak that needed a motor. We then took his block, rebuilt it, and that one ended up in another friend's Ztrak. The latest swaps block is in my garage, awaiting a rebuild and will be wrapped and shelved for future use.
@@millstonejeepworx thanks for the input. So, the issue with the heads getting clogged is that you can't blow out from the front. If you blow from the rear of the motor it tends to stat to pack the debris into the front areas of the heads/fins and shroud which in turn starts to reduce air flow over the cooling fins. The intake valves are the ones that usually suffer from overheat issue due to the poor cooling that can take place over time. I could send a picture of the access panels John Deere added on later models of the 757 to address this issue.
@@millstonejeepworx I was really surprised that Kawasaki had no replacement carb or wouldn't suggest a different one for the original since it was used on many machines including Scag.
Some sites say you should replace the PTO clutch when changing a motor. Don't know enough to make a call on that, but raise it as an issue for smarter people than me to explore.
That is a good question. To me the PTO clutch seems easy enough to replace at anytime that I just reused mine and sent it. If I was having issues with it that would be a different story.
Hi, me again! Got the engine and waiting on the air cleaner parts. Did your engine come with that cover at the top front that goes on the shroud? It says Kawasaki on it.
@@christophersawtelle2558 I would call where you got your motor from. I'm sure they will take care of it for you. You could always use the one off your old motor but....you did pay for a new motor and it should of been included.
@@millstonejeepworx It was the same place you used. Sent a message but didn't her back yet. I'd prefer to keep the old one with the old motor so I can sell it as complete as possible.
@@millstonejeepworx New dilemma! I can't get a socket to fit the oil sender that will go past the oil cooler. Seems to be an 1 1/16" but all I have at the moment is a 1/2" drive and it's a bit thick walled.
I have the same mower and am Having power issues related to the hydraulic motor. Had the filter changed and hydro oil recently and that didn’t fix it. Left rear tire has less power than right rear. Affects turning and going up hills. Any suggestions??? Gets worse when the engine is warmest.
Sounds like your pump needs a rebuild. The left side is known for failing. My left side has less power than right...just haven't gotten sick of it enough to pull it out to rebuild it.
How's the new engine running? Power good? On mine it feels like it is a little under powered. Might just be me but it seems the old engine was a little stronger when getting into grass that's a little heavier than the average weekly mow!
Mine is running very well. Power feels comparable. Definitely was better with a freshly sharpened set of blades. I think I have a spindle going bad. Going to replace all the bearings on my deck this winter. My buddy just did his, and we were shocked how much better it ran and sounded. Didn't realize how bad the bearings were till replaced with fresh ones
@@millstonejeepworx On mine the engine is noisy. Sounds like the valves are a little loose. Going to get some hours on it and then take it to my small engine friend and let him give it a once over. Check the idler pullies. Mine didn't feel too loose but were very loud. Replaced and it is quiet. now. One thing I have to check out is the belt where it meets the rear PTO pully. Mine goes at a pretty good angle. It isn't straight vertical and parallel to the pully. I need to get some pictures and compare with others in the JD forum. May have to move the engine. Not sure if that is how it is supposed to be but doesn't look right to me.
Sure, here is the part number. FH721D-S08. Here is the description on their site. Kawasaki FH721D-S08 Horizontal 1-1/8" X 100 MM/3.94" Shaft with Donaldson Air Cleaner
@@millstonejeepworx much appreciated man, great video! My engine had the same issue as yours and I'm looking to do this swap. Been doing a bunch of digging and started to question spending the $$ without being 100% sure I'm getting the right engine. Thanks for the response!
I bought the motor from Carrollstream.com. Part number FH721D-S08. carrollstream.com/kawasaki-fh721d-s08-horizontal/ This model has the heavy duty Donaldson intake. They have it with the standard intake as well.
Well, you won't believe this one! Was just replacing the O-ring on the oil cooler to fix a leak and when I took it apart the embossed threaded area that the mounting tube screws into fell off. Guess this was my oil leak. Now looking at a new engine as I don't think it is repairable.
@@millstonejeepworx The oil cooler has that threaded pipe that holds it in place. It threads into a cast part of the block. That cast area with the threads broke off.
@christopher sawtelle Dam. Have never seen that. I wonder if it was over torqued. That adapter gets torqued to about 40ft-lbs. How many hours on motor? I wonder if it could be repaired if motor is being stripped for rebuild? A good machine shop could likely repair it.
@christopher sawtelle That is a shame. They are not to complicated to rebuild. I may do videos of me rebuilding the one I have. Just not sure how soon. Keep me posted on what you end up doing and how it works out
Just got a 27 hp to replace my 25 hp!! I don't see the oil send switch ?? There's not one one the new motor!! Looks like a small plate over the hole?? Should i take it off??? Hope someone knows HELP
I just looked it up. Kawasaki FH770D-S01S 27HP. The pics I saw show the oil pressure switch in the same location as the 23 and 25hp motors. Looks the same except for the front shroud being different. I would call the tech dept of the place you bought the motor from to be sure.
Where as the kawi motor and the JD motor are exactly the same if something should go wrong with the kawi DO NOT tell them you put it on a JD it voids the warranty. Yes its stupid but true.
That is one clean 757! I’m rebuilding an old 737 right now and this video helped big time with the wiring harness. Thanks!
I now have other issues with my Z757 and that is how I ran across your video searching for help in solving my issue.
This guy was very through did a excellent job on replacing the motor . We need more good videos like this to show viewers all the things that they need to know to do it right.
Thank you. Glad to hear the video helped you.
I did a 23 hp vanguard repower kit as a cheaper option and couldnt be happier....only difference is rewiring the voltage regulator and i have a aftermarket pto clutch where i had to make a shim for it to fit perfectly. Great video
Thank you for the comments. Glad to hear it worked out. Nice to know there are other options
Great detailed instructional video! I ordered a new engine from Carrol Stream and swapped it today. I have never done this before and it worked perfectly. Much more helpful than the 3 min swap video on the company’s website.
So glad to hear it helped you. Thanks for the great comments
I have the exact same mower and the Kawasaki engine too. I had to do a head gasket and valve adjustment, plus install a hela-coil on the head. It continually backfired when turning it off. Found out I needed to leave the mother running at a faster speed when shutting down so the extra fuel would be burned and then there would be no backfiring. Also, I left the heat shield off on the right side because grass and weeds get trapped in there, and blowing it out will NOT remove it. Therefore, the cylinder gets hotter and also will not have the airflow it needs to remain cool.
You obviously have experience in motors and rebuilding them. This was my first motor since high school and that was in 1974 with a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine single cylinder. You did a great job in your explanations and demonstrations.
Thank you for the comments. I hope the video helped you. Thanks for your added suggestions. It all helps.
I had the same thing happen with a deere z665 24 hp kawasaki... A mouse had made a nest under the plastic shroud and packed grass around the cooling fins. I took mine apart and yes the push rods on cylinder number 1 was bent where the grass was packed. The valve seat was moved so i replaced one head 2 push rods head gasket exhaust gasket intake gasket and valve cover gasket. In parts all was just over 300.00 dollars. I also drilled 2 holes on the shroud and installed 2 plugs for inspection covers. That was 200 hrs ago and still running good...
Thank you for this detailed video.
I’ve got a John Deere 717A with a Kawasaki FS601. I’m assuming order to upgrade to an FX600V, all you’d need to do is swap over the starter & voltage regulator from the old engine to the new one?
Yes, John Deere changed the voltage regulator starter and oil pressure switch to be more... proprietary to the Deere name. You will likely have to use your original wiring harness as well
Roger they let me know it will ship separate . Thanks great video
I have a JD 757, with a Jeep in my garage, but 757 is missing one spring between throttle linkage and governor. Where does it go?
If I recall right there are 2. 1 is shorter and fatter and sits almost right above or next to the governor shaft. I believe that one is for choke linkage. The other one is very long and thin. It sits on opposite side of throttle plate from the governor and attaches to end of actuator arm that is attached to the governor.
Hi, some questions.
First is you mentioned the fails that the original motor can experience. Most importantly the cooling issue of the heads which can cause the slipped valve guides and subsequently bent pushrods.
I see that the new motor doesn't have the access panels on each side of the front black plastic shroud, same as the old motor, that allow for blowing out the front of the head cooling fins.
Has Kawasaki addressed this on the new motor? If not, I see that the same issue of dust and debris collecting in the front of the heads/cooling fins will be an issue.
Second thing. What did you do with the old motor? I am trying to find an original carb for this motor. Kawasaki no longer makes the carb and there is no superseded model. JD claims to have them but huge cost.
Nice video, thanks.
You are correct. The valve guides fail causing the pushrod to bend. But the heat issue generally starts as the crank bushing fails causing the crank seal to leak. Then oil and debri clog the cooling fins causing the cascade of events.
There doesn't appear to be any further improvements by Kawasaki to address keeping those heads clear. To me, the best thing is to blow them out every time you're done mowing. Prior to wear causing oil to soak the area all debri does blow out easily.
I unfortunately don't have any extra parts. I have one 23hp carb but planned on keeping it as a spare for the exact reason you mentioned.
Thanks for watching the video, hope it helped you.
My original motor was rebuilt, then swapped into a buddies Ztrak that needed a motor. We then took his block, rebuilt it, and that one ended up in another friend's Ztrak. The latest swaps block is in my garage, awaiting a rebuild and will be wrapped and shelved for future use.
@@millstonejeepworx thanks for the input. So, the issue with the heads getting clogged is that you can't blow out from the front. If you blow from the rear of the motor it tends to stat to pack the debris into the front areas of the heads/fins and shroud which in turn starts to reduce air flow over the cooling fins. The intake valves are the ones that usually suffer from overheat issue due to the poor cooling that can take place over time.
I could send a picture of the access panels John Deere added on later models of the 757 to address this issue.
@@millstonejeepworx I was really surprised that Kawasaki had no replacement carb or wouldn't suggest a different one for the original since it was used on many machines including Scag.
Some sites say you should replace the PTO clutch when changing a motor. Don't know enough to make a call on that, but raise it as an issue for smarter people than me to explore.
That is a good question. To me the PTO clutch seems easy enough to replace at anytime that I just reused mine and sent it. If I was having issues with it that would be a different story.
Hi, me again! Got the engine and waiting on the air cleaner parts.
Did your engine come with that cover at the top front that goes on the shroud? It says Kawasaki on it.
Yes, my motor came with that. You have to remove it to be able to mount the Donaldson air cleaner mounting bracket.
@@millstonejeepworx Thanks for confirming. Mine is missing it.
@@christophersawtelle2558 I would call where you got your motor from. I'm sure they will take care of it for you. You could always use the one off your old motor but....you did pay for a new motor and it should of been included.
@@millstonejeepworx It was the same place you used. Sent a message but didn't her back yet.
I'd prefer to keep the old one with the old motor so I can sell it as complete as possible.
@@millstonejeepworx New dilemma! I can't get a socket to fit the oil sender that will go past the oil cooler. Seems to be an 1 1/16" but all I have at the moment is a 1/2" drive and it's a bit thick walled.
I have the same mower and am
Having power issues related to the hydraulic motor. Had the filter changed and hydro oil recently and that didn’t fix it. Left rear tire has less power than right rear. Affects turning and going up hills. Any suggestions??? Gets worse when the engine is warmest.
Sounds like your pump needs a rebuild. The left side is known for failing. My left side has less power than right...just haven't gotten sick of it enough to pull it out to rebuild it.
How's the new engine running? Power good?
On mine it feels like it is a little under powered. Might just be me but it seems the old engine was a little stronger when getting into grass that's a little heavier than the average weekly mow!
Mine is running very well. Power feels comparable. Definitely was better with a freshly sharpened set of blades. I think I have a spindle going bad. Going to replace all the bearings on my deck this winter. My buddy just did his, and we were shocked how much better it ran and sounded. Didn't realize how bad the bearings were till replaced with fresh ones
@@millstonejeepworx
On mine the engine is noisy. Sounds like the valves are a little loose. Going to get some hours on it and then take it to my small engine friend and let him give it a once over.
Check the idler pullies. Mine didn't feel too loose but were very loud. Replaced and it is quiet. now.
One thing I have to check out is the belt where it meets the rear PTO pully. Mine goes at a pretty good angle. It isn't straight vertical and parallel to the pully. I need to get some pictures and compare with others in the JD forum.
May have to move the engine. Not sure if that is how it is supposed to be but doesn't look right to me.
How do I change my fan from my transmission? Need your help
excellent Video, Ty
Thank you. Hope it helped you.
Can i ask what model from carol stream you purchased for this swap? Was it the FH721D-S08?
Sure, here is the part number. FH721D-S08.
Here is the description on their site. Kawasaki FH721D-S08 Horizontal 1-1/8" X 100 MM/3.94" Shaft with Donaldson Air Cleaner
@@millstonejeepworx much appreciated man, great video! My engine had the same issue as yours and I'm looking to do this swap. Been doing a bunch of digging and started to question spending the $$ without being 100% sure I'm getting the right engine. Thanks for the response!
Would you sell the carb off it?
where did you buy the engine? under what part number?
I bought the motor from Carrollstream.com. Part number FH721D-S08. carrollstream.com/kawasaki-fh721d-s08-horizontal/
This model has the heavy duty Donaldson intake. They have it with the standard intake as well.
What size is the fuel line?
I will double check. I think it was 1/4"
Well, you won't believe this one! Was just replacing the O-ring on the oil cooler to fix a leak and when I took it apart the embossed threaded area that the mounting tube screws into fell off.
Guess this was my oil leak.
Now looking at a new engine as I don't think it is repairable.
Do you mean the adapter? The adapter that holds the cooler on? It stripped the threads out of the engine case? Or did the case itself crack/break?
@@millstonejeepworx The oil cooler has that threaded pipe that holds it in place. It threads into a cast part of the block.
That cast area with the threads broke off.
@christopher sawtelle Dam. Have never seen that. I wonder if it was over torqued. That adapter gets torqued to about 40ft-lbs.
How many hours on motor? I wonder if it could be repaired if motor is being stripped for rebuild? A good machine shop could likely repair it.
@@millstonejeepworx Likely it was over torqued to try and stop the leak. Engine has 500 hours. Runs good.
@christopher sawtelle That is a shame. They are not to complicated to rebuild. I may do videos of me rebuilding the one I have. Just not sure how soon.
Keep me posted on what you end up doing and how it works out
Just got a 27 hp to replace my 25 hp!! I don't see the oil send switch ?? There's not one one the new motor!! Looks like a small plate over the hole?? Should i take it off??? Hope someone knows HELP
I'm sorry but I'm not familiar with the 27hp motor.
I just looked it up. Kawasaki FH770D-S01S 27HP. The pics I saw show the oil pressure switch in the same location as the 23 and 25hp motors. Looks the same except for the front shroud being different. I would call the tech dept of the place you bought the motor from to be sure.
starts but when I move sticks to go forward it dies
Check your safety switches. Mine will do that if I leave parking brake on. Check that switch
Where as the kawi motor and the JD motor are exactly the same if something should go wrong with the kawi DO NOT tell them you put it on a JD it voids the warranty. Yes its stupid but true.
Good to know. I was not aware of that