Відео

Not sure what you are seeing. The tierod remains in the bottom of the knuckle and I mention that it can be flipped as well. The draglink is clearly installed into the top of its location on the knuckle.

@Supra_Mickey There is not a left or right side spacer. The spacers will only fit the top of the strut one way. That way it actually rotates the strut 180 degrees. Those stickers actually faced toward the center of the truck in the OEM position. Rotating the strut 180 is what faced them outward

Sorry to hear we missed the mark for you. Filming this stuff isn't always easy when done alone and yes there are tripods and stands available, but I currently have no special equipment. Thank you for the input as it is appreciated to help me improve my content.

@@gregchiropolos9885 The suspension rides and drives great. Especially with the draglink flipped and front axle shimmed correctly for caster.

@rickwalltheoutlaw-je3ow It is a standard right hand thread. Has a keyed washer under it with tabs to lock the nut in place.

thank you ​@@millstonejeepworx

I generally do diff/transfer case fluids every 30-40k miles. If you look online the recommended intervals range from 30-60K miles. At 80k I would be doing the diff/transfer case fluids and would also want to do a transmission fluid/filter change. My choice of interval may be overkill to some but to me, Overkill is Underrated. I personally think that maintenance is cheap especially when you consider these vehicles are 40-50K+

You'll have to get that info from a dealership or look it up via your VIN or build sheet of your vehicle.

@jassdhawan7372 Is it a ZF 8spd? Or is it one of the Chrysler 5 or 6spds? If it has a dipstick and the level checks I would expect it is good. Especially when what you took out matches what you put in.

@t.sutt.7768 yes, I have another video showing the removal and installation of it.

If I recall right there are 2. 1 is shorter and fatter and sits almost right above or next to the governor shaft. I believe that one is for choke linkage. The other one is very long and thin. It sits on opposite side of throttle plate from the governor and attaches to end of actuator arm that is attached to the governor.

@mattdudester9037 You're not wrong. It is a pretty involved install. I would definitely recommend ordering or purchasing a truck with it already installed. That being said, I'm happy I did it. It is nice having the lights there, but it is definitely not the only option for bed lighting. I just wanted OEM.

@millstonejeepworx I've got the Cov!d special Big Horn that had far fewer options than pre C days so I don't have lights back there either. I assumed it would be easy with a factory style harness to add aftermarket lights. Not so much though. Definitely good info. I'll probably do under bed rail & OE placement with rocker panel.

@KfromtheBAY Is it on the side where the front CV axle comes out to go to the wheel? If so, it could be axle seal on that side. I'm not positive how the axle seals are set up on the front diff. If it is just inside from the axle shaft then replacement should be pretty easy. Remove CV axle, pry out the seal, replace with new one. Some axles the seals are internal making replacement much more difficult.

@millstonejeepworx to me, it looks like the differential case cover is leaking. It does not appear to be leaking out of or around the CV

@millstonejeepworx it's not to the point where it's leaving a puddle on the ground. The spot has just about doubled in size, though, within the last 3k miles or so

Glad to hear the video was a help for you. You won't be disappointed.

@blitzColoradoAdventures Best thing is to reach out to Rock Krawler. They will get you set up with the correct pieces for the joints you have.

@flashflash4144 You would need to reach out to RockKrawler for that answer. I don't have it. I know that their adventure X joints are different from the Pro-X Krawler joints in the kit on my Gladiator.

I am not sure. I know someone else who opened it and they just closed and snugged it back up with no worries. They haven't had an issue.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have seen this and done this on other vehicles that called for it. This one I did fill to the fill level and so far have not seen any issues. I have experienced times when diff or cases were overfilled and seen them puke fluid out of vents. I've only ever seen them leak through the seals when the vents are clogged or blocked and they build pressure as they warm up with use.

Best thing will be to go the dealership with your vin# and they will be able to look it up. You could also google Jeep build sheets. I know that with wranglers there are websites associated with Mopar that you can enter a vin number and get the factory build sheet.

@One_More_Summer_Garage Thanks for the tip. Never had an issue with a tap but I think I understand what you are saying. Have my rear axle, waiting on rear carrier to come in and rear hubs to return from powder. Ordered my A-arms, should be here next week. Almost a roller, should be in about 2 weeks.

Taps can cut or thin existing threads, a Chase is basically a bolt with slits cut in it to remove anything that's clogging up the threads. But as always, you get what you pay for, the chase kits are pretty Chinese. You'll need to Chase the male chase with the female chase prior to use lol. Or just buy quality tools. Live and learn I guess

Yes, the fluid I used already has the limited slip additive in it. It is possible they gave you a comparable fluid and had you add the additive as it is likely cheaper. The Mopar part number for what I used is 68083381AA. Make sure the part number of what you were given match. It may look the same and be a different fluid. Not saying what they gave you is wrong, likely a cheaper alternative.

@@millstonejeepworx Thanks for the feed back. Just checked the print out and they gave me that same part# as you refrenced. The friction modifier they told me to add was Mopar part#431806-AD. Now, since I had just watched your excellent video, I was confused, got the print out and declined to purchase. Will run this by another dealer to double check.

@dgio5052 If you google the part number for that fluid. It says it is for the LSD and has modifier in it. But....double checking won't hurt and gives peace of mind

@@millstonejeepworx Yes, thank you. It was a 'soccer mom' car and has 48,000 on it, so it's probably not that critical. But $230 for fluids, I just want to make sure I'm getting the correct stuff.

@BillyWillicker Thank you for the information you wrote. Alot of good info there. The piston and cylinder had about 8 hours of run time on it. The clearances were all within normal tolerances. I don't recall the exact numbers. The piston and cylinder were off a good strong running motor that was moving up to bigger bore cylinder. I have another cylinder and piston that will be coming soon that will sit on the shelf till needed. That one is a just over stock bore currently being set up by Jerry Hall of Hall Precision Racing.

@@millstonejeepworx It's good to hear that Jerry is still doing work he enjoys. Good luck with it!

Thanks. It is. There aren't many good ones left. Not many today who really know 2 strokes.

@@millstonejeepworx I'm still doing some myself but I have rolled it back quite a bit. I mostly stick with the Suzuki and Yamaha 2-strokes lately. I enjoy the more in-depth engine building that the Suzukis demand to really build up. You can still buy whatever you want for the Honda and bolt it together. With the Suzuki if you want a big bore, the bottom end needs machine work before you can even start on the top end. Jerry has done a lot with them as well and his work is excellent on whatever he does. You'll be happy with it.

Thank you sir. Agreed

@@millstonejeepworx u should check out the banshee build I'm doing. We have similar interests

Thanks, it is an AMC 304

Amazing , thank you man for replying you are the best

All Gladiator and JLs have aluminum knuckles. The Gladiator Mojave has cast iron knuckles.