This is the technique taught by Nancy Zieman back in 1999 in her "Fitting Finesse" and "Pattern Fitting With Confidence" books and shows. The episodes from her shows are still online and it's a great technique. Nancy Zieman also has books that accompany her shows which are very good -- she shows how to alter tops, pants, skirts and move darts, all without cutting the pattern.
I am sewing a dress for my adult daughter to wear to a wedding tomorrow and she is heavily busted. I was really stressing out on the proper way to increase the commercial pattern when in desperation, I turned to UA-cam this morning at 3:00 AM. YOU ARE AN ANGEL WHO SAVED ME FROM A MAJOR PANIC ATTACK!!! Thanks to you she will have a beautiful dress to wear tomorrow!!! God bless you for your generosity in sharing your gifts, talents, and knowledge with those of us still learning!
This is terrific! I've been sewing for (ack!) 45 years, and I've been doing pattern alterations for 35 years. Your information is spot on, and I really love how you explain WHY you do it, as opposed to just doing it. I've used the slash and spread method, but I'm always ready to learn easier ways! i.e. you *CAN* adjust a princess bust line if you measure the bust point in addition to everything else. Please keep up the excellent work for our fellow neophytes.
It depends on how much you're adding. If you're adding less than 4 inches total, you can probably just ease the sleeve in as sleeves are usually eased in normally. If you're doing something more extreme than you'll have to add an extension to the sleeve. We'll eventually have a tutorial showing sleeve alterations.
This was the easiest one I've seen. Commercial pattern designers should think about us curvy girls Bc they NEVER fit and we always need to make an adjustment. Thank you so much
LaTonya Moody you can use BURDA désignés they are much easier for beginners are old school but train them is like labirint. I will be doing my sewing room thus week so if 8 found few what still are at home so wear I will make video for you and post here.
So glad I found,this. I had previously tried the slash method and almost ruined my pattern. I put it back together and tried your method and so glad I did the blouse fits and I will be able to make many more thanks so much.
you can do this! I actually think it's better to fit the bust and then make adjustments to the waist. That way you know the shoulder area will fit well and you don't have to worry about the armholes and then doing added alterations to the sleeves. Increasing the waist using the pivot method is less of a big deal. Also, don't forget to make a quick muslin so you can make sure your alterations work. good luck! :)
wow, I'm impressed you go through that extra step. yes, you can iron it, just make sure the iron is only warm (not hot) and not to leave it on too long. It won't come out completely smooth but it does help.
Beautiful dress. Since you don't have any straps, try pivoting from the waistline out to your increase at the bustline. Just realize that you can't pivot more than 1" per side seam without doing an extra extension. Be sure to make a muslin after your alterations so you can test to see if this alteration works before using more expensive fabric
Yes, you can use this technique. It'll deepen the dart a bit but should work. Just make sure you do a muslin to test your alterations before using your more expensive fabric.
Glad we were able to help out. Just make sure you do a muslin first so you can test your alteration first. I'd love to see a picture of your vintage dress when you finish. :)
great video, This is how nancy zeeman use to do it but she had seam allowances printed on pattern, I needed to know how to add these so I could use the pivot method. thank you!!!
It was a pattern for cup B. I couldn't find any muslin in Malaysia but I used other cheap fabrics. Thank you so much! Looking forward to see your next video. ;)
Thanks for your quick reply! I sew them into the shoulder seam too. They still flip out at the top of the bodice. I've taken to cutting the facings larger, say double the width so I can sew them deeper into the other seams. Since I don't know what else to do, I completely line the bodices wherever possible, but the lining is still visible, turning out. AAARGH! If you think of any thing else, let me in on it!
I can see what you're saying, especially if someone has a small back and is really busty, but not everyone has the same shape. We're also dealing with full body measurements that are printed on the commercial pattern and pattern companies don't break down these measurements for front and back nor how much ease is going to be added to each section. I can only recommend doing a muslin of any alteration you make and then making adjustments if you need to.
nice! be sure to watch our tutorial on increasing the sleeve width (if you have sleeves) as this needs to be done if you're increasing more than 1" and really affecting the armhole size.
hi there. Is it like a princess seam? I googled it and can only find a tiny image of a pattern with a pink top. You can just do an increase on the side seam pieces only and then you don't have to worry about the other piece. If you increase by a lot, be sure to also see our increase sleeve width tutorial. We show you what to do if you increase by more than 4". You can also divide by # of seams and increase using all the pieces, pivoting on each side but we don't have that tutorial yet.
I would check the finished bust measurements. It looks pretty loose fitting so you might not have to adjust as much as you think. You'll still want to pivot back towards the side seam just so you can make sure that is a nice continuous line. I'd love to see a picture when you finish. It's a cute look!
@professorpincushion Hi, I just found this method. I'm new to sewing. I'm wondering how to go about using this method for adjustments when the back is cut on the fold. Would one only adjust the two front pieces?
Yes. Although, if you're increasing both, you may want to move up to the next size pattern. It doesn't the matter the order but I usually do bust and then waist or you can do both at the same time and just pivot to your new marks. :)
hi there! yes, this technique only affects the bustline and the waistline will remain the same. If you increase the bustline by more than 4" total, check out our tutorial Increase Sleeve Width. The second half of the tutorial shows you what to do for large increases since you are changing the size of the armhole. Also, after you do your alteration, make a test run with inexpensive fabric so you can make sure it works.
Are you using a pattern for a cup C or you already did an alteration to the pattern? You could add the two inches alteration but I suggest sewing a muslin after doing your alterations. It just means using a cheap fabric, and basting the bodice together enough so you can try it on and test the fit. That way you can tell if it fits before using more expensive fabric.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I recently bought a vintage pattern I love. I couldn't figure how to add to the bust size. This makes so much sense to me.
Easy to see and understand ...Nancy’s notions from pic channel talked about this method but you explained and showed so smoothly.. looking for more other adjustments we need to make middle area and hips pants thank you
I think Zieman's chart is based on your front width measurement which is still measuring the area of the high bust, but just the front of the body instead of the whole circumference. This system may work better for someone with a small back, but they both are working from the idea that you're finding a pattern that will first fit your shoulders and then just increasing the bustline. Zeiman is great so I would never go against her. :)
The waistline does not have a maximum pivot restriction so you're fine just doing a 1" pivot on the bustline and a 1 3/4" pivot on the waist without having to do any extensions.
Thank you for explaining this in such an easy to understand way, I've added this teaching session to my favourites and will be sure to reference back each time I need to do a FBA. thank you
I would say it depends on how much you're increasing it by. If it's just a little I would just stick to adding to the side seams. If it's a lot, you can distribute the measurement to all your seams, that way you don't have to worry about the armhole getting too out of shape.
thank you for your reply it was very helpful but in the end what I did was go and find a pattern similar to the dress I was making and used the bodice and fitted it to the skirt of the dress that way I didn't have to alter anything other than the waist which is easier I feel
So are you looking to adjust the whole pattern up a size or two? That's called pattern grading. I do have it on my list to do a video on this, just don't know when that will be yet. In the meantime, I'll send you a link and maybe it can help you out.
If it was me, fit according to the bust and not your waist. That way we know that the shoulders of the garment is going to fit well. The waist is an easy adjustment to make. Also, be sure to look at the finished garment measurements. Sometimes that helps in your decision making as well. And don't forget to make a muslin first to test the fit. I'd love to see a picture when you finish :)
OMG!! Thank you so much!! I was buying the wrong size pattern. So I tried to adjust the bust as well as waist. Hopefully all will come out ok. Thanks, jean,,
watch our tutorial on increasing the sleeve width because we show what you need to do for increasing the bustline if you are increasing by a great deal. (It's in this video because you also need to adjust the sleeves since you're altering the armhole size) I would also look at the particular pattern, and if it's not a fitted waist but is designed to be a little looser, maybe go up to the next size pattern so you don't have to increase by so much.
Are you referring to one of the Simplicity patterns? You can buy them directly on the Simplicity pattern website. I'm unsure if they ship to Mexico though so you would have to ask them.
omg you have saved my mental health (no more frustrations) with these easy instructions. It worked! Maybe you have saved as well my love life with that lol
This was such a fantastic and easy to follow tutorial! Many thanks for sharing in addition to the sleeve pattern alteration. I achieved the perfect fit following your instructions! Cheers from London :-)
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I love your smarting the info you have. Please consider doing a video for this kind of alteration. In the mean time I will Google it as you suggested.
Thank you so much for making this video. Can you answer a query for me please? What if there is a dart just below the arm pit on the front and at the shoulder at the back? Do I mark those darts in at the original position of the pattern piece or the pivoted position?
Oh dear. I did all of this and it appears to be correct. One problem. My pattern (Butterick 5646) has a side bust dart which extends down to a point on the side seam. I redrew the side seam with the new point but how would I now draw the dart? Do I use the old end point and draw the dart lines to meet the new side point OR do I measure the end point out the same amount I extended the side seam thereby moving the entire dart?
Hi, this video is excellent. I was wondering about the back piece, do I do the adjustment with the pattern facing up or do I turn the pattern backwards and make the adjustments that way. Thank you.
The reason the bustline has it is because you'll start distorting the armhole. Your situation is a little different since your dress doesn't have an armhole to worry about. You can see me doing an extension on a bustline in our increase sleeve width alteration tutorial which is also on our channel. It's in the second part of the video, around the 19:30 timecode I think.
Ah, I finally understand how to pivot correctly, thank you! I hope I'm wrong but I suspect this method won't work for a large bust, DD or bigger. Do you have a tutorial for the pattern-slashing method? I will look for some others' but I find your videos very easy to follow.
Your videos are fantastic. I have McCalls M6746 do I only need to do step one of you bust increase video. I ask because as you can see it is a smock fit.
Finally, thank you, just adding material where I need it, without adding a dart! making simple, airy tips for summer, I don't want to add a dart, because it's just loose and airy! This ought to work for knits, as well as wovens, right
Hi, I love all of your videos related to commercial patterns. Thank you for your effort. Could you please show a video on how to reduce a wide ,deeper neckline of a commercial pattern to our own choice? I am very beginner in sewing. Thank you.
This was a great refresher. I have a very full bust and small back and find that when I alter patterns to fit, or ease between two sizes, I still have trouble with neckline facings flipping to the outside of the garment, or at the least being visible. I must be doing something wrong I've had some luck blindstiching them down, but what about necklines with gathers? Is there an alteration to the facings one can do to encourage them to stay in place? Thanks for your help.
Professor Pincushion I have watched all you videos on the pivot and slide method and they are great. I just wanted to know how exactly this method would work on garments with princess seams specifically waist increases. Would love to see a video on how pivot and slide technique work for princess seam.
Sorry, I have a follow up question concerning the darts I asked about below. Should I follow the markings of the darts for my full bust size or my upper bust size? Thank you.
Not yet, but I hope to some day. We're going to be releasing a tutorial soon for those that need to pivot more than 4". It's a little different because you have to also alter the sleeves since you're changing the armhole size
This is without making alterations, it's just always big? You're probably like me (I have a small back so my bodices are usually bigger in the back). You can measure your back width (at your problem area: waistline) & compare this to the back bodice pieces (without seam allowances) & then use the same system of decreasing the waistline but you'll only be dividing by 2 because you're just adjusting the back bodice. Definitely make a test muslin of the bodice before using more expensive fabric.
One last thought , you may want to start using push pins with the colors on the ends that are showing up larger , at least for these demonstrations because I never saw one pin in this demonstration that was not in your pin cushion. Thanks
Sorry bout that, computer glitch. As I was saying, so I have discovered that the pattern size that I thought I would be able to wear is actually smaller then the commercial sizes. I like this method, but I don't think it will work for a full figured girl. Can you please show some videos on how to alter patterns to fit full figured girls? I have this pattern from Simplicity, it's a dress, and I want to make it, but I have found that my measurement don't come close to theirs. Can you please help?
I would think this would work in your case. Just make sure you make your first version with cheap fabric and just baste your pieces together to test the fit.
THANK YOU! I never realized that commercial patterns were made for B cups. No wonder my D cup doesn't fit! If I buy a pattern that fits my bust measurement the shoulders and sleeves are way too long and sloppy. And those are a bear to alter.
that is frustrating. Luckily, it's a very similar process using the pivot method. We'll try and have a tutorial on this some time next month and you'll be able to see exactly how it's done. :)
Jana Bell yes, you would adjust the facings. Because armhole facing pieces usually have a pretty simplistic shape, I'd just add the extra measurement to the ends. Definitely split it up between front and back pieces
Hi this is wonderful but I would like to do this to a pants pattern for the waist for example: I am a very full figure and most patterns that fit my hips dont fit my waist bc I really dont have a waist. my hips are 60 and my waist is 58, how do I fix a solid waist band pattern? and do I do the same for a dress pattern that needs to be bigger at the waist? Thanks for your help!!
Thank you, PP! :) That slash in four places and spread looks very scary to me. I shouldn't judge before I actually watch a tutorial. Thanks for the option to get me started.
If you're pattern is taped to the paper and you can see through it, then your marks are already there. Or if you're not taping your pattern to the paper then yes, transfer your marks. :)
If I understand this would be the way to alter if there is no bust dart and you keep the waist untouched or do those waist darts affect your alteration? Thank you for you trouble you have a nice clear voice love the video
you shouldn't have to change the waist dart. But I definitely recommend making a quick muslin to test your fit after you make your alterations to see if you want to make any additional changes.
When you do your facing, you're finishing it with an understitch and then a topstitch, right? I've also gotten in the habit of stitching down the facing right at the shoulder seams. And I mean I'm stitching in the ditch (right in the center of the seam) of the shoulder seam. By doing this, you're not going to see any of your stitches. :)
would you use this same principle to enlarge the chest area on a patteren for a mens hawainn shirt, my husband is barrell chested and he needs a good inch more across the chest and would I need to change any other part of the pattern? Thanks sso much
Hi, I love your channel, I have a dilema, I need to increase the bust by 6" and like you said I am or might have to alter the sleeves and I don't know how. It would be great if you make a tutorial for us busty Women
Thank you, this looks helpful and it's very easy to follow, so I hope to try it soon. I am new to sewing, and what I have been doing to accommodate my 36H bust on my 5 foot torso is to use the size for my bust but then reduce the shoulder width 3.5 centimeters on each side, and redraw the armhole, making sure it is the same left and right. And of course shortening everything. I have made a jacket and several blouses this way. Could you comment on the advantage of using the pivot method you demonstrated, or the disadvantage of what I have been doing? I have a lot to learn! Thank you.
If I were you, I'd choose the bodice pattern based on your upper bust measurement rather than your full bust measurement, this way the shoulder and neckline of the pattern will fit better. Then you can increase the bustline using the pivot method. If you have to increase by a lot, I recommend you watch our increase the sleeve width where I go over increasing the sleeve and armhole because the pattern is being increase by more than 4".
@@ProfessorPincushion Thank you so much for your kind reply. I can't tell you how helpful this is for someone who has started sewing in her sixties! I will try your suggestions! ❤️🐢
This is the technique taught by Nancy Zieman back in 1999 in her "Fitting Finesse" and "Pattern Fitting With Confidence" books and shows. The episodes from her shows are still online and it's a great technique. Nancy Zieman also has books that accompany her shows which are very good -- she shows how to alter tops, pants, skirts and move darts, all without cutting the pattern.
I am sewing a dress for my adult daughter to wear to a wedding tomorrow and she is heavily busted. I was really stressing out on the proper way to increase the commercial pattern when in desperation, I turned to UA-cam this morning at 3:00 AM. YOU ARE AN ANGEL WHO SAVED ME FROM A MAJOR PANIC ATTACK!!! Thanks to you she will have a beautiful dress to wear tomorrow!!! God bless you for your generosity in sharing your gifts, talents, and knowledge with those of us still learning!
Thank you! So much easier and understandable than the other 15 I watched today!
Five years later and I'm still feeling this comment
This is terrific! I've been sewing for (ack!) 45 years, and I've been doing pattern alterations for 35 years. Your information is spot on, and I really love how you explain WHY you do it, as opposed to just doing it. I've used the slash and spread method, but I'm always ready to learn easier ways! i.e. you *CAN* adjust a princess bust line if you measure the bust point in addition to everything else. Please keep up the excellent work for our fellow neophytes.
Thank you so much for the kind words! You have made my day :)
WHY HAVE I NOT DISCOVERED YOUR SERIES BEFORE!!!!!!!ugh i would have saved myself hours of tears and heartache...
aw...better late than never. :) Thanks for watching
It depends on how much you're adding. If you're adding less than 4 inches total, you can probably just ease the sleeve in as sleeves are usually eased in normally. If you're doing something more extreme than you'll have to add an extension to the sleeve. We'll eventually have a tutorial showing sleeve alterations.
This was the easiest one I've seen. Commercial pattern designers should think about us curvy girls Bc they NEVER fit and we always need to make an adjustment. Thank you so much
LaTonya Moody you can use BURDA désignés they are much easier for beginners are old school but train them is like labirint. I will be doing my sewing room thus week so if 8 found few what still are at home so wear I will make video for you and post here.
como cortar patron
So glad I found,this. I had previously tried the slash method and almost ruined my pattern. I put it back together and tried your method and so glad I did the blouse fits and I will be able to make many more thanks so much.
Would love to see a FBA for princess seams. I have a 6" difference between my upper bust and full bust. I have no idea where to begin.
you can do this! I actually think it's better to fit the bust and then make adjustments to the waist. That way you know the shoulder area will fit well and you don't have to worry about the armholes and then doing added alterations to the sleeves. Increasing the waist using the pivot method is less of a big deal. Also, don't forget to make a quick muslin so you can make sure your alterations work. good luck! :)
So glad we were able to help you out and your daughter had a lovely dress to wear. :D
wow, I'm impressed you go through that extra step. yes, you can iron it, just make sure the iron is only warm (not hot) and not to leave it on too long. It won't come out completely smooth but it does help.
Watch “sewing with Nancy” “fitting with finesse”. Her bust measurement to select pattern size has worked with every pattern I’ve ever purchased.
Does this technique from Nancy accommodate large bust?
this is absolutely the best FBA I have ever done. Excellent fit first try. Thank you so much!!
Beautiful dress. Since you don't have any straps, try pivoting from the waistline out to your increase at the bustline. Just realize that you can't pivot more than 1" per side seam without doing an extra extension. Be sure to make a muslin after your alterations so you can test to see if this alteration works before using more expensive fabric
Yes, you can use this technique. It'll deepen the dart a bit but should work. Just make sure you do a muslin to test your alterations before using your more expensive fabric.
Glad we were able to help out. Just make sure you do a muslin first so you can test your alteration first. I'd love to see a picture of your vintage dress when you finish. :)
great video, This is how nancy zeeman use to do it but she had seam allowances printed on pattern, I needed to know how to add these so I could use the pivot method. thank you!!!
It was a pattern for cup B. I couldn't find any muslin in Malaysia but I used other cheap fabrics. Thank you so much! Looking forward to see your next video. ;)
Very good tutorial. Short sweet and to the point. Easy to follow and understand
Thanks for your quick reply! I sew them into the shoulder seam too. They still flip out at the top of the bodice. I've taken to cutting the facings larger, say double the width so I can sew them deeper into the other seams. Since I don't know what else to do, I completely line the bodices wherever possible, but the lining is still visible, turning out. AAARGH! If you think of any thing else, let me in on it!
I can see what you're saying, especially if someone has a small back and is really busty, but not everyone has the same shape. We're also dealing with full body measurements that are printed on the commercial pattern and pattern companies don't break down these measurements for front and back nor how much ease is going to be added to each section. I can only recommend doing a muslin of any alteration you make and then making adjustments if you need to.
A little confusing in inches so I’ll follow the procedure in the metric system. Much easier for me . Thanks 🙏 Great video
Thank you Professor Pincushion, you have made life a bit easier when it comes to adjustments
nice! be sure to watch our tutorial on increasing the sleeve width (if you have sleeves) as this needs to be done if you're increasing more than 1" and really affecting the armhole size.
hi there. Is it like a princess seam? I googled it and can only find a tiny image of a pattern with a pink top. You can just do an increase on the side seam pieces only and then you don't have to worry about the other piece. If you increase by a lot, be sure to also see our increase sleeve width tutorial. We show you what to do if you increase by more than 4". You can also divide by # of seams and increase using all the pieces, pivoting on each side but we don't have that tutorial yet.
I would check the finished bust measurements. It looks pretty loose fitting so you might not have to adjust as much as you think. You'll still want to pivot back towards the side seam just so you can make sure that is a nice continuous line. I'd love to see a picture when you finish. It's a cute look!
I just answered you on the site about the 4" difference but you would extend the side dart from it's original point. so the dart would be longer.
@professorpincushion Hi, I just found this method. I'm new to sewing. I'm wondering how to go about using this method for adjustments when the back is cut on the fold. Would one only adjust the two front pieces?
Thanks for sharing all this information. Whenever I need help I normally turn to your videos. Easy to follow and answer all my question.
Yes. Although, if you're increasing both, you may want to move up to the next size pattern. It doesn't the matter the order but I usually do bust and then waist or you can do both at the same time and just pivot to your new marks. :)
Thankyou so much.....I have adjusted my pattern and can’t wait to sew. You are so clear with your instructions. Thankyou again
hi there! yes, this technique only affects the bustline and the waistline will remain the same. If you increase the bustline by more than 4" total, check out our tutorial Increase Sleeve Width. The second half of the tutorial shows you what to do for large increases since you are changing the size of the armhole. Also, after you do your alteration, make a test run with inexpensive fabric so you can make sure it works.
Best step by step video. Thank you. I am big busted and need to make adjustments in this area. Much appreciated
This is your first tute that I can’t seem to follow. I will keep trying.
Are you using a pattern for a cup C or you already did an alteration to the pattern? You could add the two inches alteration but I suggest sewing a muslin after doing your alterations. It just means using a cheap fabric, and basting the bodice together enough so you can try it on and test the fit. That way you can tell if it fits before using more expensive fabric.
Have you ever considered becoming a Craftsy teacher? You have a real knack for teaching!
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I recently bought a vintage pattern I love. I couldn't figure how to add to the bust size. This makes so much sense to me.
Easy to see and understand ...Nancy’s notions from pic channel talked about this method but you explained and showed so smoothly.. looking for more other adjustments we need to make middle area and hips pants thank you
I think Zieman's chart is based on your front width measurement which is still measuring the area of the high bust, but just the front of the body instead of the whole circumference. This system may work better for someone with a small back, but they both are working from the idea that you're finding a pattern that will first fit your shoulders and then just increasing the bustline. Zeiman is great so I would never go against her. :)
I also found another video on pattern grading which explains easily how to do it. But I look forward to yours. Many thanks again.
oh good. I hope it works out for you.
So glad you found out video helpful. :) I'd love to see how your costume turns out.
yes, you do the front and back on the side seam. You have two side seams on the back and two on the front and that's where the number 4 comes from.
The waistline does not have a maximum pivot restriction so you're fine just doing a 1" pivot on the bustline and a 1 3/4" pivot on the waist without having to do any extensions.
Thank you for explaining this in such an easy to understand way, I've added this teaching session to my favourites and will be sure to reference back each time I need to do a FBA. thank you
I would say it depends on how much you're increasing it by. If it's just a little I would just stick to adding to the side seams. If it's a lot, you can distribute the measurement to all your seams, that way you don't have to worry about the armhole getting too out of shape.
thank you for your reply it was very helpful but in the end what I did was go and find a pattern similar to the dress I was making and used the bodice and fitted it to the skirt of the dress that way I didn't have to alter anything other than the waist which is easier I feel
So are you looking to adjust the whole pattern up a size or two? That's called pattern grading. I do have it on my list to do a video on this, just don't know when that will be yet. In the meantime, I'll send you a link and maybe it can help you out.
Excellent tutorial. Demystified the method. thank you.
This site is so freaking awesome! Now I can finish my pajama top
If it was me, fit according to the bust and not your waist. That way we know that the shoulders of the garment is going to fit well. The waist is an easy adjustment to make. Also, be sure to look at the finished garment measurements. Sometimes that helps in your decision making as well. And don't forget to make a muslin first to test the fit. I'd love to see a picture when you finish :)
I've never seen ths approach...im use to the slash&spread method. I'll try ths now & see if it really works.
OMG!! Thank you so much!! I was buying the wrong size pattern. So I tried to adjust the bust as well as waist. Hopefully all will come out ok. Thanks, jean,,
It's great if your apex/bust point is at the arm hole height & don't mind the side seam shifting to the front--but great option for some situations!
watch our tutorial on increasing the sleeve width because we show what you need to do for increasing the bustline if you are increasing by a great deal. (It's in this video because you also need to adjust the sleeves since you're altering the armhole size) I would also look at the particular pattern, and if it's not a fitted waist but is designed to be a little looser, maybe go up to the next size pattern so you don't have to increase by so much.
Are you referring to one of the Simplicity patterns? You can buy them directly on the Simplicity pattern website. I'm unsure if they ship to Mexico though so you would have to ask them.
omg you have saved my mental health (no more frustrations) with these easy instructions. It worked! Maybe you have saved as well my love life with that lol
We hope to have a tutorial on this soon
This was such a fantastic and easy to follow tutorial! Many thanks for sharing in addition to the sleeve pattern alteration. I achieved the perfect fit following your instructions! Cheers from London :-)
yay! I'm so glad to hear that :)
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I love your smarting the info you have. Please consider doing a video for this kind of alteration. In the mean time I will Google it as you suggested.
Thank you so much for making this video. Can you answer a query for me please? What if there is a dart just below the arm pit on the front and at the shoulder at the back? Do I mark those darts in at the original position of the pattern piece or the pivoted position?
Oh dear. I did all of this and it appears to be correct. One problem. My pattern (Butterick 5646) has a side bust dart which extends down to a point on the side seam. I redrew the side seam with the new point but how would I now draw the dart? Do I use the old end point and draw the dart lines to meet the new side point OR do I measure the end point out the same amount I extended the side seam thereby moving the entire dart?
Hi, this video is excellent. I was wondering about the back piece, do I do the adjustment with the pattern facing up or do I turn the pattern backwards and make the adjustments that way. Thank you.
The reason the bustline has it is because you'll start distorting the armhole. Your situation is a little different since your dress doesn't have an armhole to worry about. You can see me doing an extension on a bustline in our increase sleeve width alteration tutorial which is also on our channel. It's in the second part of the video, around the 19:30 timecode I think.
Ah, I finally understand how to pivot correctly, thank you! I hope I'm wrong but I suspect this method won't work for a large bust, DD or bigger. Do you have a tutorial for the pattern-slashing method? I will look for some others' but I find your videos very easy to follow.
Your videos are fantastic. I have McCalls M6746 do I only need to do step one of you bust increase video. I ask because as you can see it is a smock fit.
Finally, thank you, just adding material where I need it, without adding a dart! making simple, airy tips for summer, I don't want to add a dart, because it's just loose and airy! This ought to work for knits, as well as wovens, right
So glad to hear it worked out for you! :)
Im trying to increase a size 20-22 to a size 30 from this collection with the professor's help.
Hi, I love all of your videos related to commercial patterns.
Thank you for your effort.
Could you please show a video on how to reduce a wide ,deeper neckline of a commercial pattern to our own choice? I am very beginner in sewing.
Thank you.
Excellent video Prof Pincushion
Excdllent and straight forward tutorial. Many thanks.
This was a great refresher. I have a very full bust and small back and find that when I alter patterns to fit, or ease between two sizes, I still have trouble with neckline facings flipping to the outside of the garment, or at the least being visible. I must be doing something wrong I've had some luck blindstiching them down, but what about necklines with gathers? Is there an alteration to the facings one can do to encourage them to stay in place? Thanks for your help.
Great! It's a fantastic explanation. Thank you. Is it possible to use the same pivot method for the waist adjustment?
What do you think is better, Nancy Zieman's bust measurement chart or just using the high bust measurement?
Professor Pincushion I have watched all you videos on the pivot and slide method and they are great. I just wanted to know how exactly this method would work on garments with princess seams specifically waist increases. Would love to see a video on how pivot and slide technique work for princess seam.
If you're not increasing by very much, you can just pivot/add to the side bodice pieces only and just keep it simple.
Sorry, I have a follow up question concerning the darts I asked about below. Should I follow the markings of the darts for my full bust size or my upper bust size? Thank you.
Thank you! :) Professor Pincushion keeps me pretty busy but who knows, maybe some day
Not yet, but I hope to some day. We're going to be releasing a tutorial soon for those that need to pivot more than 4". It's a little different because you have to also alter the sleeves since you're changing the armhole size
This is without making alterations, it's just always big? You're probably like me (I have a small back so my bodices are usually bigger in the back). You can measure your back width (at your problem area: waistline) & compare this to the back bodice pieces (without seam allowances) & then use the same system of decreasing the waistline but you'll only be dividing by 2 because you're just adjusting the back bodice. Definitely make a test muslin of the bodice before using more expensive fabric.
Excellent tutorial on how to enlarge a pattern
Thanks for the kind words! :)
You are welcome! :)
One last thought , you may want to start using push pins with the colors on the ends that are showing up larger , at least for these demonstrations because I never saw one pin in this demonstration that was not in your pin cushion. Thanks
Ella Duhon Thanks for the feedback. I'll try making the pins more obvious next time :)
Sorry bout that, computer glitch. As I was saying, so I have discovered that the pattern size that I thought I would be able to wear is actually smaller then the commercial sizes. I like this method, but I don't think it will work for a full figured girl. Can you please show some videos on how to alter patterns to fit full figured girls? I have this pattern from Simplicity, it's a dress, and I want to make it, but I have found that my measurement don't come close to theirs. Can you please help?
Hello great tutorial why did you take an upper bust measurement?
upper bust measurement is used to pick your bodice size so that the shoulder area will fit.
I would think this would work in your case. Just make sure you make your first version with cheap fabric and just baste your pieces together to test the fit.
THANK YOU! I never realized that commercial patterns were made for B cups. No wonder my D cup doesn't fit! If I buy a pattern that fits my bust measurement the shoulders and sleeves are way too long and sloppy. And those are a bear to alter.
Happy to help!
that is frustrating. Luckily, it's a very similar process using the pivot method. We'll try and have a tutorial on this some time next month and you'll be able to see exactly how it's done. :)
This is so helpful. Thank you! Should coordinating adjustments also be made to the facings of the armhole? How is that done?
Jana Bell yes, you would adjust the facings. Because armhole facing pieces usually have a pretty simplistic shape, I'd just add the extra measurement to the ends. Definitely split it up between front and back pieces
Just to be clear I would transfer my circles and dots as well right
Hi this is wonderful but I would like to do this to a pants pattern for the waist for example: I am a very full figure and most patterns that fit my hips dont fit my waist bc I really dont have a waist. my hips are 60 and my waist is 58, how do I fix a solid waist band pattern? and do I do the same for a dress pattern that needs to be bigger at the waist? Thanks for your help!!
Thank you, PP! :) That slash in four places and spread looks very scary to me. I shouldn't judge before I actually watch a tutorial. Thanks for the option to get me started.
Excellent! Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. I really appreciate that.
If you're pattern is taped to the paper and you can see through it, then your marks are already there. Or if you're not taping your pattern to the paper then yes, transfer your marks. :)
If I understand this would be the way to alter if there is no bust dart and you keep the waist untouched or do those waist darts affect your alteration? Thank you for you trouble you have a nice clear voice love the video
you shouldn't have to change the waist dart. But I definitely recommend making a quick muslin to test your fit after you make your alterations to see if you want to make any additional changes.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!! This helped me so much! I have a pretty full bust and always need to add to patterns. Go bless you!
Thanks for the kind words! so glad you found our tutorial helpful :)
When you do your facing, you're finishing it with an understitch and then a topstitch, right? I've also gotten in the habit of stitching down the facing right at the shoulder seams. And I mean I'm stitching in the ditch (right in the center of the seam) of the shoulder seam. By doing this, you're not going to see any of your stitches. :)
would you use this same principle to enlarge the chest area on a patteren for a mens hawainn shirt, my husband is barrell chested and he needs a good inch more across the chest and would I need to change any other part of the pattern? Thanks sso much
Hi, I love your channel, I have a dilema, I need to increase the bust by 6" and like you said I am or might have to alter the sleeves and I don't know how. It would be great if you make a tutorial for us busty Women
Thank you, this looks helpful and it's very easy to follow, so I hope to try it soon. I am new to sewing, and what I have been doing to accommodate my 36H bust on my 5 foot torso is to use the size for my bust but then reduce the shoulder width 3.5 centimeters on each side, and redraw the armhole, making sure it is the same left and right. And of course shortening everything. I have made a jacket and several blouses this way. Could you comment on the advantage of using the pivot method you demonstrated, or the disadvantage of what I have been doing? I have a lot to learn!
Thank you.
If I were you, I'd choose the bodice pattern based on your upper bust measurement rather than your full bust measurement, this way the shoulder and neckline of the pattern will fit better. Then you can increase the bustline using the pivot method. If you have to increase by a lot, I recommend you watch our increase the sleeve width where I go over increasing the sleeve and armhole because the pattern is being increase by more than 4".
@@ProfessorPincushion
Thank you so much for your kind reply. I can't tell you how helpful this is for someone who has started sewing in her sixties! I will try your suggestions! ❤️🐢
Wonderful! Excellent job of showing us this. Thank you
Just Mom Thanks so much for watching! :)
This is extremely helpful! Thank you!