Installing a 240V 24k BTU Gree Neo Mini Split Heat pump unit on our 5th wheel. Dropped our summer temperature 20 degrees while reducing our electric bill ~$25/month.
Nice job on the video. Very methodical and well explained. I noticed these mini-splits in Japan. My daughter was at the Osaka School of Law and living in an apartment back in the late 90's. At her apartment I often had to reach up to feel cool air because these units were so quiet I was doubtful it was working; it WAS! Returning the the States, I ended up installing two in my home (no air vent work as I have hot water heat). These were installed before the American market and many HVAC companies here in the Midwest knew much about them. Probably one of the best investments I've made in home owership. Again, nice job and your wife was a good assistant.
Thanks for that vid. I'm about to do the same on my RV but I'll be going with a 110 version. I'll be referring to your video again when I begin my install project.
Nice job but wondered how you vacuumed the freon line's . Iam a 67 year heating contractor and in my opinion you did a great job . With a little help I could of got both freon line's in that same hole . Then would of covered the lines with plastic cover made for that . 2 more years then I plan on getting out of Michigan and spending winter's in Florida somewhere. You shure have a nice spot .
Thanks for the video. I live off grid in my 40 ft trailer and the original ac draws so much power. So installing the mini split has worked great. Thanks for the info
@@patrickmelson4745 I'm curious about this as well. Another guy who runs his mini-split off solar power exclusively got a 9000 BTU unit. He seemed to be impressed with it. But he only had a class C motor home that he claimed was well-insulated.
Dan, You have brought up some good points. Those "flimsy" bumpers are just folded sheet metal, not really engineered to hold more than the sewer hoses, and they do have a tendency to rust out. It also appeared to be a pretty shaky proposition not adding some support from the top of the unit back over to the trailer. Going down the road, the movement at that point will be exaggerated and those little screws holding it all, or the flimsy bumper will probably be pretty short lived. Also, the indoor unit didn't appear to have a lot holding it up to the wall, but we didn't get to see all of that, but getting to a destination and finding it all on the floor would not make his day. If that unit was installed in a stick built house that wasn't going down the road, it is probably a reasonable installation, but for a travel trailer, I think it's right on the edge of a minor disaster. Maybe he doesn't move it around much, so might be okay if it stays parked or on very smooth roads, which I can never seem to find. Better to overkill sometimes, on the side of safety.
I did calculate the shear strength of the fasteners, plenty of margin. The original bumper is my real concern since its wall thickness is 1/2 what I used for the extension. As mentioned above I plan on beefing it up.
My company is doing some custom work with ductless units in cargo trailers and I have to agree. While we are having to concern ourselves with very difficult off-road conditions and all of the adaptations required for units that are not designed to tolerate that bumping and bruising, I would be concerned about _any_ bumpy road in any RV without, for example, the indoor unit having a more certain connection to the bracket, especially at the bottom so that it does not have opportunity to fly off the weight-based seating that is typical at the top. At least one of the major companies needs to come out with these units engineered specifically for mobile applications. It's very expensive to re-engineer and build them up to a correct install for an application that should be common and relatively easy to do from a clean sheet at the factory. I believe the refrigerant may need to be changed for compliance, also, which may have some impact on efficiency.
I've done two installations of split units. The fins tend to pick up quite a bit of road grime, reducing the efficiency. My second install had a bay door which is closed during transport. I don't like the roof mount units either. Would be keenly interested to get an update. Good effort.
I just had this installed. In the owner's manual it does not show how to get the louvers to swing left to right. Would you please share how to do that?
A couple of the A/C units on my boat had a problem with the condensate lines getting plugged. The A/C tech had a cone shaped attachment for a can of, I guess, pressurized CO2. He just stuck in in the drain pan of the air handler and the cone shaped end sealed the drain tube and he blew out the crud growing in the drain line. You could make this attachment to use with the air compressor you use to air up your tires. You WILL have this problem with the condensate line. So, forewarned is forearmed. :)
24,000 BTU is a lot. There's another fellow who is super clever, a former robotics engineer, and I think he used a high SEER 9000 BTU air conditioner that could run off his solar setup. Do you think for a small RV you need something like 24000 that is so powerfuL?
If you were going to run a 240v unit, you could have gotten a multizone unit that would use the one compressor to drive two head units. One for your main living area and a second for the bedroom.
I really liked your video. Currently hooking a 230V to my 50 amp 5th wheel. I wish you would have gone into more detail about the electrical side of things and how you wired to to the breaker. Im trying to understand if there will be any issues connecting through the RV breaker and if I need a disconnect. But I really appreciate how thorough you were. I would like to pick your brain on the electrical side of things if possible. Did you remove the under belly of your rig?
Really curious to see how that bumper extension fares with traveling. I think I would have removed the original bumper, welded up an extension that mounts "directly" to the frame, then remount the original bumper on the end of the extension. That's an awful lot of torque you're going to subject that original, "flimsy" bumper to. Also, wondering how those zip-=ties are going to hold up that you have the coolant lines hanging from underneath. I would have went with some "real" pipe hangars there.
It all made through a very rough 2200 mile trip. I was running out of time when I put on the zip ties. I do plan on tying it directly to the frame a little more for some additional strength.
Cool project but seems nuts to me. Going 220v really limits your camp site options, the system seems way too big, and heavy and complex. A pair of much smaller minis would make more sense. I don’t like that huge extended bumper for the unit, a mini would have wall mounted and just used the number for bracing. Still, you put a solid effort in. Was the overhead unit broken or you jus didn’t like it?
So you NEED a 2 ton unit in that?? EPIC I would do the same thing in my RV trailer but the current AC/heat is enough lol IDk though My unit on the roof is pretty quiet.. I wonder how well the refrigerant lines, mainly the unions, fair while traveling over time...
Hi Seth, I installed the 110 version. When I powered it up the unit functions but no display comes on. Did you have to connect any wires from behind. There is a blue connector for the wifi and a white one that I don't know what it goes to. Didn't see any instructions in the manual and gree won't let you speak to a tech unless your licenced technician.
Have you taken this on the road yet? I would have used rubber bushings under the unit then titanium bolts, nuts, and lock washers. I agree with others that a single piece bumper mod would have been more safe.
Thanks for sharing this video. First, How big is your Trailer? Does that one unit keep it consistently cool from one end to the other? I dont mind the noise level of the two ceiling units i have, but thinking i need something like this (or smaller) to add to the one end that gets the least amount of the ducted AC that is mounted in the center of my 43’ trailer.
Dori Damerau I ended up having one professionally installed at a total cost for parts and labor of $2300. I have found in this Florida heat that by itself it will not cool the entire trailer at 40 feet long and my far end ceiling unit still has to run on its own however the one in the middle I leave turned on at 3 to 5° higher than normal as back up and it hardly ever kicks on now. We love this mini split
Can you provide more detail. I am working with a 32 ft fifth wheel used as a stationary live aboard so install will be much easier. I was thinking a 1200 BTU would do the job? Mitsubishi makes the best from my research. Where do you live and who did the install. Was it for road or stationary use. I was thinking about doing the basic install and hiring out the electrical and HVAC
After almost a year my question is does it still work.?, How much traveling and or miles have you put on the system.?, I don't know if you ever did a follow up video to show success or failure, but considering one of the biggest warning those AC's have is "Mount in Low Vibration Area of a main structure wall.", not to mention copper line bouncing around while traveling I can't see you putting but so many miles on that thing without issues. And as stated that extension coming off your bumper is illegal, maybe you could get around it with proper lights, but I just can't see you getting through to many DOT check points with that thing before they pull you off the road and shut you down otherwise. My advise to people is do not do as this person did, those units are not meant for this type of application, it would be one thing if the camper was parked in one spot permanently, but driving around with all that is a hazard, not so much for you but the other people on the road, putting other peoples lives in jeopardy because you don't like feeling hot, I couldn't live with myself just knowing how that thing is cobbled together, know your limitations, do it right or don't do it at all. And people wonder why there are dedicated websites to the things that come out of Florida, well here's a pretty good example.
Thank you for sharing your install of the mini-split system. I have a motorhome that I would like to install/or have one installed. I have two questions. Can you tell us about how you determine the choice of using a 240v vs 120 volt system? Did your house trailer came from the factory with 240 volts? Keep making videos... Have A Good Day.
I went with the 240V because I couldn't get enough BTUs out of a 120V system. The RV came with 50A 240V connection (5 prong), though most people will say that RVs are only 110V.
Just wondering did you tie directly into the existing roof AC wiring in the back of the hot side (bus) of the panel? Or how does one tie into the hot side of the panel? Great videos btw!
@@ApartmentGardener 220 volt input for low power loss to camper. Then the voltage is split into 2...120 volt circuits. Most campers have connectors for either of the two voltages.
I found it pretty good during the summer but if you really want to get lower than 25 degree from the outside temperature you have to get a slightly bigger unit than the recommended one so you would saver power rather than running it for hours without stopping
@@ahmeddagher how many BTUs on the mini split do you have because I was thinking of getting me either a 24 ft trailer or a 30 foot trailer and I want to know if maybe 16000 BTU mini-split is the way to go
I'm using 12000 BTU unit and it works fine for me , if you want to cool your trailer so you will actually need to get 18000 BTU it will save a lot especially in sunny days
Most of my questions/concerns have already been posted except for one. Did you have an HVAC Tech hook up the coolant lines or did you do that yourself too?
A certified HVAC tech hooked up the lines. This was required for warranty. Unfortunately they screwed it up and I had to have someone fix it. I would have done it myself if it weren't for the warranty. Would require special HVAC tools and some education though.
How much for the 1st guy and how much for the 2nd. How long did it take each? Where did you find the HVAC tech? I've looked for them before and nobody wanted to touch it unless doing the entire job.
Interesting that you considered hiring a contractor to keep the warranty intact, but by installing it in an RV, you've completely invalidated the warranty anyway. Your warranty states that it does not cover "Failure, damage or repairs due to faulty installation, misapplication, abuse, improper servicing, unauthorized alteration or improper operation". I'd consider this a misapplication. It also doesn't cover any corrosion within 1 mile of a coast, and also says "Limited warranty applies only to systems that are properly installed by a state certified or licensed HVAC contractor, under applicable local and state law in accordance with all applicable building codes and permits; GREE installation and operation instructions and good trade practices." By installing on an RV, you couldn't have followed building codes, OR GREE installation instructions.
OMG where to even begin? I was just searching for info on gree , but i have to comment on this,, wow! First like already mentioned the best option would have been a one piece solid bumper mounted to the frame, that said stainless bolts ? I get the corrosion issue , however two dissimlar metals can create more corrosion, those bolts shouldve been grade 8 , next if i would have choose a two piece install with bolts, I'd still have atleast welded the two bumpers together even though they were bolted just as insurance for bolt backout do to road vibration .. now with all that said aside,, theres more.. in most states any thing protruding four feet beyond the body requires flags and possibly lights so thats another issue The next thing i would worry about is an under ride situation , this is a trailer and not sure but it may require a mansfield icc or under rider bar because of the axel setback, if not , id guarantee if he get into a serious rear ender with this , some atty is gonna have a field day with the overhang and non sanctioned modifacations done to this thing.. All that said and im sure im missing stuff, lastly he said hes from fla ,,,lol,, well me too ,, so hes probably gonna use the 95 corridor at some point ,,, so im sure a ga dot cop with nothing better to do will have a field day with this setup as it is in the video, especially after in 2016 i got hasseled in kingston on i95 at x3 in ga because my 20 foot haulmark trailer i was pulling, the running lights werent yellow enough for this ga dot ass clown..
Thanks for all the thoughts. I did add more structural support that essentially bypasses the original thin walled bumper. Though we put about 3.4k miles on it before that with no issues. I can't say that I wasn't thinking about it during the trip. :) I considered welding but wan't sure how the high current might affect on board electronics.
If you just set it on the mount without adding another screw to keep it from going vertical , when you hit a bump it comes off the mount.... F'd up unit
This looks like a disaster waiting to happen and this heavy unit will end up in someone's windshield. You should remove this video for liability reasons just in case someone tries it. This unit should only be used in stationary applications or secured with extreme measures like a very heavy duty welded custom steel frame.
@@johnschoeb3025 No. Just an Engineer that knows a bit about physics and cars. There are reasons that heavy car batteries are well secured inside your car. There are enormous forces involved in accidents and all objects can be become projectiles. Securing an AC unit designed for a house to the rear bumper of an RV is an accident waiting to happen.
*Easy to assemble **Fastly.Cool*
Nice job on the video. Very methodical and well explained. I noticed these mini-splits in Japan. My daughter was at the Osaka School of Law and living in an apartment back in the late 90's. At her apartment I often had to reach up to feel cool air because these units were so quiet I was doubtful it was working; it WAS! Returning the the States, I ended up installing two in my home (no air vent work as I have hot water heat). These were installed before the American market and many HVAC companies here in the Midwest knew much about them. Probably one of the best investments I've made in home owership. Again, nice job and your wife was a good assistant.
Does it save you a lot of money, energy-wise? I only have seen the high SEER units that are said to be very efficient
Thanks for that vid. I'm about to do the same on my RV but I'll be going with a 110 version.
I'll be referring to your video again when I begin my install project.
How's it working?
Nice job but wondered how you vacuumed the freon line's . Iam a 67 year heating contractor and in my opinion you did a great job . With a little help I could of got both freon line's in that same hole . Then would of covered the lines with plastic cover made for that . 2 more years then I plan on getting out of Michigan and spending winter's in Florida somewhere. You shure have a nice spot .
Thanks for the video. I live off grid in my 40 ft trailer and the original ac draws so much power. So installing the mini split has worked great. Thanks for the info
What size AC unit did you need for your 40 footer?
@@patrickmelson4745 I'm curious about this as well. Another guy who runs his mini-split off solar power exclusively got a 9000 BTU unit. He seemed to be impressed with it. But he only had a class C motor home that he claimed was well-insulated.
Dan, You have brought up some good points. Those "flimsy" bumpers are just folded sheet metal, not really engineered to hold more than the sewer hoses, and they do have a tendency to rust out. It also appeared to be a pretty shaky proposition not adding some support from the top of the unit back over to the trailer. Going down the road, the movement at that point will be exaggerated and those little screws holding it all, or the flimsy bumper will probably be pretty short lived. Also, the indoor unit didn't appear to have a lot holding it up to the wall, but we didn't get to see all of that, but getting to a destination and finding it all on the floor would not make his day. If that unit was installed in a stick built house that wasn't going down the road, it is probably a reasonable installation, but for a travel trailer, I think it's right on the edge of a minor disaster. Maybe he doesn't move it around much, so might be okay if it stays parked or on very smooth roads, which I can never seem to find. Better to overkill sometimes, on the side of safety.
I did calculate the shear strength of the fasteners, plenty of margin. The original bumper is my real concern since its wall thickness is 1/2 what I used for the extension. As mentioned above I plan on beefing it up.
My company is doing some custom work with ductless units in cargo trailers and I have to agree. While we are having to concern ourselves with very difficult off-road conditions and all of the adaptations required for units that are not designed to tolerate that bumping and bruising, I would be concerned about _any_ bumpy road in any RV without, for example, the indoor unit having a more certain connection to the bracket, especially at the bottom so that it does not have opportunity to fly off the weight-based seating that is typical at the top. At least one of the major companies needs to come out with these units engineered specifically for mobile applications. It's very expensive to re-engineer and build them up to a correct install for an application that should be common and relatively easy to do from a clean sheet at the factory. I believe the refrigerant may need to be changed for compliance, also, which may have some impact on efficiency.
I've done two installations of split units. The fins tend to pick up quite a bit of road grime, reducing the efficiency. My second install had a bay door which is closed during transport. I don't like the roof mount units either. Would be keenly interested to get an update. Good effort.
I wrap ours in a tarp during travel. This reduces road debris collection and damage.
Nice video... how well has this unit held up? Any problems? Would you buy this brand again?
I just had this installed. In the owner's manual it does not show how to get the louvers to swing left to right. Would you please share how to do that?
A couple of the A/C units on my boat had a problem with the condensate lines getting plugged. The A/C tech had a cone shaped attachment for a can of, I guess, pressurized CO2. He just stuck in in the drain pan of the air handler and the cone shaped end sealed the drain tube and he blew out the crud growing in the drain line. You could make this attachment to use with the air compressor you use to air up your tires. You WILL have this problem with the condensate line. So, forewarned is forearmed. :)
24,000 BTU is a lot. There's another fellow who is super clever, a former robotics engineer, and I think he used a high SEER 9000 BTU air conditioner that could run off his solar setup. Do you think for a small RV you need something like 24000 that is so powerfuL?
If you were going to run a 240v unit, you could have gotten a multizone unit that would use the one compressor to drive two head units. One for your main living area and a second for the bedroom.
I really liked your video. Currently hooking a 230V to my 50 amp 5th wheel. I wish you would have gone into more detail about the electrical side of things and how you wired to to the breaker. Im trying to understand if there will be any issues connecting through the RV breaker and if I need a disconnect. But I really appreciate how thorough you were. I would like to pick your brain on the electrical side of things if possible. Did you remove the under belly of your rig?
Really curious to see how that bumper extension fares with traveling. I think I would have removed the original bumper, welded up an extension that mounts "directly" to the frame, then remount the original bumper on the end of the extension. That's an awful lot of torque you're going to subject that original, "flimsy" bumper to. Also, wondering how those zip-=ties are going to hold up that you have the coolant lines hanging from underneath. I would have went with some "real" pipe hangars there.
It all made through a very rough 2200 mile trip. I was running out of time when I put on the zip ties. I do plan on tying it directly to the frame a little more for some additional strength.
This video scares me in so many ways :O
Does this one unit cool your separate bedroom as good as the rest of your 5th wheel?
Cool project but seems nuts to me. Going 220v really limits your camp site options, the system seems way too big, and heavy and complex. A pair of much smaller minis would make more sense. I don’t like that huge extended bumper for the unit, a mini would have wall mounted and just used the number for bracing.
Still, you put a solid effort in.
Was the overhead unit broken or you jus didn’t like it?
Why not put in a screw in the center hole, then with the level, you can tilt it (- or +) in any direction, instead of doing it like in the video?
What size mini split can I get away with on a 40 foot fifth wheel? I was hoping a 1 ton 120v
So you NEED a 2 ton unit in that?? EPIC I would do the same thing in my RV trailer but the current AC/heat is enough lol
IDk though My unit on the roof is pretty quiet..
I wonder how well the refrigerant lines, mainly the unions, fair while traveling over time...
Still would be a great idea to go with a mini split just in case if the rooftop unit goes out,
How is the AC keeping up so far?
I wonder if he properly evacuated the system
How many kw a day is it drawing? How about how many real world amps?
How did you tie it with the inside breaker box for the rv
Hi Seth,
I installed the 110 version. When I powered it up the unit functions but no display comes on. Did you have to connect any wires from behind. There is a blue connector for the wifi and a white one that I don't know what it goes to. Didn't see any instructions in the manual and gree won't let you speak to a tech unless your licenced technician.
Don't know how long your rv is but I think 24,000 btu is to big.
if you dont know how long the rv is, then why say something so stupid?
Have you taken this on the road yet? I would have used rubber bushings under the unit then titanium bolts, nuts, and lock washers. I agree with others that a single piece bumper mod would have been more safe.
Gree does highly recommend the line set to be a minimum of 10 feet.
Does it is suitable for vehicles where it gets bump , someone said to me bumps will effect the compressor ...
Kindly guide me
What is the SEER rating on that Gree Neo model?
Thanks for sharing this video. First, How big is your Trailer? Does that one unit keep it consistently cool from one end to the other? I dont mind the noise level of the two ceiling units i have, but thinking i need something like this (or smaller) to add to the one end that gets the least amount of the ducted AC that is mounted in the center of my 43’ trailer.
I have the same questions. I have a 30ft 5er with one ceiling unit and it STRUGGLES. I need to add something to help.
Dori Damerau I ended up having one professionally installed at a total cost for parts and labor of $2300. I have found in this Florida heat that by itself it will not cool the entire trailer at 40 feet long and my far end ceiling unit still has to run on its own however the one in the middle I leave turned on at 3 to 5° higher than normal as back up and it hardly ever kicks on now. We love this mini split
Can you provide more detail. I am working with a 32 ft fifth wheel used as a stationary live aboard so install will be much easier. I was thinking a 1200 BTU would do the job? Mitsubishi makes the best from my research. Where do you live and who did the install. Was it for road or stationary use. I was thinking about doing the basic install and hiring out the electrical and HVAC
With the line set so short do you have to remove any 410 from the system or is it charged proper for this short of a run ?
Thanks for the great video. I was just wondering How much did it cost and how much does it weigh and how much current does the AC split unit draw?
Traveling Terry jacokashbnom
what about when you travel. how do you think it holds up to vibrations?
After almost a year my question is does it still work.?, How much traveling and or miles have you put on the system.?, I don't know if you ever did a follow up video to show success or failure, but considering one of the biggest warning those AC's have is "Mount in Low Vibration Area of a main structure wall.", not to mention copper line bouncing around while traveling I can't see you putting but so many miles on that thing without issues.
And as stated that extension coming off your bumper is illegal, maybe you could get around it with proper lights, but I just can't see you getting through to many DOT check points with that thing before they pull you off the road and shut you down otherwise.
My advise to people is do not do as this person did, those units are not meant for this type of application, it would be one thing if the camper was parked in one spot permanently, but driving around with all that is a hazard, not so much for you but the other people on the road, putting other peoples lives in jeopardy because you don't like feeling hot, I couldn't live with myself just knowing how that thing is cobbled together, know your limitations, do it right or don't do it at all.
And people wonder why there are dedicated websites to the things that come out of Florida, well here's a pretty good example.
After over 2 years and more than 4,000 miles it works great.
That won’t hold, get it welded to the bumper. Take the screws out. Vinny 🇺🇸
Several critical things he missed was
He did not properly evacuate and pressure test the system for leaks especially around the flare fittings
Thank you for sharing your install of the mini-split system. I have a motorhome that I would like to install/or have one installed. I have two questions. Can you tell us about how you determine the choice of using a 240v vs 120 volt system? Did your house trailer came from the factory with 240 volts? Keep making videos... Have A Good Day.
I went with the 240V because I couldn't get enough BTUs out of a 120V system. The RV came with 50A 240V connection (5 prong), though most people will say that RVs are only 110V.
Just wondering did you tie directly into the existing roof AC wiring in the back of the hot side (bus) of the panel? Or how does one tie into the hot side of the panel? Great videos btw!
@@ApartmentGardener 220 volt input for low power loss to camper. Then the voltage is split into 2...120 volt circuits. Most campers have connectors for either of the two voltages.
nice gree mini split cooler
I haven't seen much on LIKES and DON'T LIKE on GREE units yet. You are about a month into it now, any recommendation or complaints yet?
Steve 1961P. kckkj
Whats interesting is the lack of the professional scam artist commenting "You should have a licensed pro install that"
Good job👍
I have the same unit in my 12 sq.meter room and it barely can reachs the temperature to 25℃ but the outside temperature reaches 45+℃ during summer
So is that a good thing or bad lol
I wanna know if this can get ur camper cool inside
I found it pretty good during the summer but if you really want to get lower than 25 degree from the outside temperature you have to get a slightly bigger unit than the recommended one so you would saver power rather than running it for hours without stopping
@@ahmeddagher how many BTUs on the mini split do you have because I was thinking of getting me either a 24 ft trailer or a 30 foot trailer and I want to know if maybe 16000 BTU mini-split is the way to go
I'm using 12000 BTU unit and it works fine for me , if you want to cool your trailer so you will actually need to get 18000 BTU it will save a lot especially in sunny days
nice gree mini split cooler inverter
How long did it last?
Most of my questions/concerns have already been posted except for one. Did you have an HVAC Tech hook up the coolant lines or did you do that yourself too?
A certified HVAC tech hooked up the lines. This was required for warranty. Unfortunately they screwed it up and I had to have someone fix it. I would have done it myself if it weren't for the warranty. Would require special HVAC tools and some education though.
If you ever need another one check out the MRCOOL DIY series mini splits.
How much for the 1st guy and how much for the 2nd. How long did it take each? Where did you find the HVAC tech? I've looked for them before and nobody wanted to touch it unless doing the entire job.
Interesting that you considered hiring a contractor to keep the warranty intact, but by installing it in an RV, you've completely invalidated the warranty anyway. Your warranty states that it does not cover "Failure, damage or repairs due to faulty installation, misapplication, abuse, improper servicing, unauthorized alteration or improper operation". I'd consider this a misapplication.
It also doesn't cover any corrosion within 1 mile of a coast, and also says "Limited warranty applies only to systems that are properly installed by a state certified or licensed HVAC contractor, under applicable local and state law in accordance with all applicable building codes and permits; GREE installation and operation instructions and good trade practices." By installing on an RV, you couldn't have followed building codes, OR GREE installation instructions.
@@ApartmentGardener what was the cost of the HVAC guy? Was it hard to find anyone willing to deal with it?
OMG where to even begin?
I was just searching for info on gree , but i have to comment on this,, wow!
First like already mentioned the best option would have been a one piece solid bumper mounted to the frame, that said stainless bolts ? I get the corrosion issue , however two dissimlar metals can create more corrosion, those bolts shouldve been grade 8 , next if i would have choose a two piece install with bolts, I'd still have atleast welded the two bumpers together even though they were bolted just as insurance for bolt backout do to road vibration .. now with all that said aside,, theres more..
in most states any thing protruding four feet beyond the body requires flags and possibly lights so thats another issue
The next thing i would worry about is an under ride situation , this is a trailer and not sure but it may require a mansfield icc or under rider bar because of the axel setback, if not , id guarantee if he get into a serious rear ender with this , some atty is gonna have a field day with the overhang and non sanctioned modifacations done to this thing..
All that said and im sure im missing stuff, lastly he said hes from fla ,,,lol,, well me too ,, so hes probably gonna use the 95 corridor at some point ,,, so im sure a ga dot cop with nothing better to do will have a field day with this setup as it is in the video, especially after in 2016 i got hasseled in kingston on i95 at x3 in ga because my 20 foot haulmark trailer i was pulling, the running lights werent yellow enough for this ga dot ass clown..
Thanks for all the thoughts. I did add more structural support that essentially bypasses the original thin walled bumper. Though we put about 3.4k miles on it before that with no issues. I can't say that I wasn't thinking about it during the trip. :) I considered welding but wan't sure how the high current might affect on board electronics.
different metals together = electrolysis
@@ApartmentGardener I just welded superstruts to my bumper to install a 18K btu unit. No issues.
nice ac gree mini split
uhg, not aluminum... that will conduct thr heat from the frame and act as a heat sink bleeding heat in to your unit :(
@Mr Sunshines Hey, it's youTube!
Dude... thru bolts !!!! That thing will fall
If you just set it on the mount without adding another screw to keep it from going vertical , when you hit a bump it comes off the mount.... F'd up unit
That bumper wouldn't make it 100 miles across any state.
Electricity too close to the ground. too accessable to pets and kds. Exposed spinning fan accessable.
This looks like a disaster waiting to happen and this heavy unit will end up in someone's windshield. You should remove this video for liability reasons just in case someone tries it. This unit should only be used in stationary applications or secured with extreme measures like a very heavy duty welded custom steel frame.
Safety police!
@@johnschoeb3025 No. Just an Engineer that knows a bit about physics and cars. There are reasons that heavy car batteries are well secured inside your car. There are enormous forces involved in accidents and all objects can be become projectiles. Securing an AC unit designed for a house to the rear bumper of an RV is an accident waiting to happen.