I have the 500 watt version of this amp and it sounded noticeably better than the 500 watts kenwood amp I was replacing. Really made me want to invest in their 4 channel amp on this line too.
What model of Kenwood you have?? I have the JL Audio JX 1000 series for my w7 and kenwood excelon series. I think excelon have better sound quality then JX but for more power JL. I was thinking upgrading for this amp maybe sound quality improve.
@mrb9106 I had a kenwood KAC-500 for my sub I believe. It wasn’t their excelon series. My speaker amp is a kac-6407. It doesn’t sound bad but I like to match.
I installed the JD500/1 in my car a few days ago. I LOVE THAT THING! I am still working on cleaning up my install with the help of this channel. This is the first time I install a full sound system (stereo, speakers, amp and sub). I am now working on doing the big 3 and upgrade my alternator.
I watched JL's overview video on this series the day it launched, this is definitely a lot of amp.. it's entry level, but it's a few giant steps above entry level quality.
These are nice little entry level amps! I had the JD 400/4 in my setup before getting more power hungry speakers and upgrading to the JL audio HD 600/4 and XD700/5v2. I’m very impressed with all JL amps I’ve used so far
I have a full set of the previous generation JX amps. I started off with the 250/1 & had it for years until it was time for an upgrade & of course I stuck with the JL Audio JX range & I’m now running 2 x 1000/1 & 2 x 360/2. After seeing this amp I want to upgrade to the new generation JD amps but I can’t justify the cost at the mo!😔 I’m a JL lifer these days & when time comes to replace I will stick with them for sure. So many new sick features over the JX & the JX aren’t crap either!🤣 Mark your review videos are great as you cover all the good shit! I just wish you was in the UK!😜👍🏻
I'm glad you do all these helpful videos Mark. I'm no dummy when it comes to car audio, but every little tip and trick is extremely useful and helps a lot! Thank you sir for doing this!
For those who complain about JL Audio prices, do you have any idea how convenient and sometimes essential all of these rare features are? There's so much built into when these entry level amps. I run all JL Audio. JL Audio HD750/1 to JL 10W7 JL HD600/4 to JL C5-650 doors & RBH 4” Beryllium on dash JL 300/4 to Vifa tweeters on dash and bass shaker in seat JL Twk88 DSP to run 3 way active front. No rears JL Audio is subjectively the Best, and objectively easily within the top 5 car audio manufacturers.
I watched this video & went to Crutchfield to order the 500/1 for my 2 15w0v3 subs. Really wanted my old school planet audio to push em but you can hear they are craving better quality amplification. Thanks for such a great in depth video!!!
2:13 ... good information on power output, the majority will not be running an upgraded electrical system(alternator/batteries/etc), for the past 20 years, autos have a charging system monitor that feeds information to the PCM typically connected to a sensor attached to the negative side of the battery cable, my 2005 gmc sierra 1500 has this. After the vehicle is first started, the alternator output will be at a typical +14.4v, as the battery is monitored and slowly charged back up, the charging system will go down to +12.6v so it doesnt get overcharged and be kept topped off, at least during the day with all running lights off. At night time with all the running lights on, the alternator output will usually stay at a constant +14.4v due to the load demand and other accessories you have running at the time.
3:49 I’ve also found this useful for adding a second location to connect a sub box. My subwoofer works in two locations depending on whether the third row seat is folded or not.
You seriously make the best review videos, I love the details you show that everyone else ignores. And I find myself pulling out my wallet everytime.. dang you lol 😆
I love JL Audio.. I just started to install a small system in my Honda Civic because of the Roni Rona. I installed one 10 inch sub in the JL audio H.O. pre fab enclosure and small amplifier XD600/V2. I really like your video's!
I recently installed the JD 400/4 in my Camaro and am very pleased with the performance. These amps deliver a pretty powerful punch at a very reasonable price point.
I was biased against JL audio for years and always thought there was better stuff at the same price point. I have since changed my mind a bit. There RD line up is hard to beat at the price point. I currently run the XD lineup and it is amazing.
As a recommendation for the quick remove power connection look into Powercon connectors, They are used in Professional live audio and lighting applications, they are rated for at least 3600W and you would be able to use all 3 of the power terminals +/-/Rem in one connector.
There is a reason Neutrik has become the default standard for audio connections in Professional AVL. I definitely recommend trying out the PowerCon. They can't come loose on you and provide excellent grip on the cable jacket to prevent the wire connection points from getting pulled on.
@@TheBurnout96 you are right, I took the 3600W from 230V ac. I forgot you needed far more amps and those amps are what causes most of the heat instead of the voltage. Yet again I believe it would be usable for this specific amp setup. And in my opinion it would look better compared to those gray plugs (They remind me of forklift charger plugs)
I used to have the previous gen of the 250rms watts and those tiny amps have more balls than those that claim to be 1200 watts!! It provides enough power for a single 10” w3 which that amp is made for or w7’s now but they can easily power 2-10” no problem. I highly recommend.
Its nice to watch a video so useful to newbies like me a big fan here in the philippines always watching your video wish i had one of those sub aits like my dream to have a set up in my mini van like my toyota avanza 2015 e but dont have the budget , because of some priorities id love to have it and put in in my ride . Hoping to learn on your next video big fan here in PH
So when using a ported sub box with this amp is there a need to for a subsonic filter? I was under the impression that if one is not used it can damage your sub in ported applications. When would you need an amp that does have these options?
If I remember correctly, the NEXTd use next-gen FETs that are highly current efficient, but are surface mount (I don't see any power or output FETs with the bottoms cover removed). If one of those go bad, the repair tech had better be good and qualified for SMD repair. Thankfully JL's repair services for amps is actually very very reasonably priced.
I have the older Slash series 5 channel JLAUDIO amp. I am keeping that. Great amp. I have the older series JLAUDIO component speakers and the older JLAUDIO 8 inch ported sub. Keeping all that too.
For the remote wire you can tap into a fuse in your fuse box. I wrapped my remote wire around a 12v plug in fuse that’s always on so if my car is on, the amp is on
When setting the clipping setting, you said to turn off the "loud" setting on my aftermarket head unit. Can I turn it back on afterwards? Or am I supposed to leave it off?
This line is just the upgrade to the JX series amplifiers. The JX had been their entry level line for many years. They have had a 250.1 500.1 1000.1 400.4
@@CarAudioFabrication o yeah for sure! Just same power platform and specs. Love your videos. You are crazy talented. Glad you're reppin JL! Hope to see you review Morel someday! Keep it up dude!👍
Why would I be able to turn the clipping all the way up without the light coming on? It’s the 500 watt version with two 250watt subs. To tune it to the right sound I turn the bass boost 90% up. I can turn it all the way up if I wanted. The other setting is at 80 like yours. Thanks for any input you can give.
I'd love to see how to set input sensitivity and find clipping using an old school oscilloscope. I have one but cant figure out how to set it up and use it for car audio.
I want to get JL audio monoblock and speaker. I want to build all in unit myself. I don't know if I should get 250W amp and speaker or 250W speaker and 500w amp to feed clean signal to the speaker ? 🤷🏻♂️
i am building a custom enclosure in my jeep liberty. 2 12” l7s, 4 kicker 6x9s and 2 amps. all fiberglass built in and one piece. never done anything even remotely similar but i am going to use your videos as a guide. so thanks! and also, i haven’t seen much about ported fiberglass enclosures. do you recommend fiberglass enclosures be sealed?
They would have to hire an entire division to do that. Head Units require a dramatically different electrical engineering knowledge and experience from speaker design. If they connected with a top quality engineer in that realm they were interested in hiring then it could happen. But that's the only way I see that coming about.
This might sound dumb, but I’m trying to figure out what size fuse I need for multiple amps. I watched you video on how to calculate them. I have the jd400 hooked up to 4 kicker 75watt door speakers. What would you say is the peak output of the 400 setup that way? Thanks for any info.
Any way you could do a video for the people who are just starting out on what sub distortion actually sounds like? A lot of newbies don't know that it's harder to hear when it starts when the sub is in the trunk. Heck, there are a lot that don't even know what distortion sounds like period. They usually roll up to the gas station, windows down, blasting a heavily clipped sub signal and actually think they're bumping nice and hard. I feel embarrassed for them.
I am completely new to this whole car audio stuff. But do i need one amp for my 4 speakers and then another for the subwoofer? and how do they connect? So about 500€ just for amp´s then 200€ for speakers and whatever the subwoofer is what i have to expect as entry or am i getting something wrong?
I just installed the jd/400 amp with some component speakers and rear coaxial speakers how do i figure out what filter frequency to set it on ??? i hope you see these
Do you make custom in closures for customers I’m looking for a small rear center with a 6.5 sub for my Cl55 coupe I have the rear center console I could send you for measurements
You won't need an LC2i or similar unless you are using a signal from a powerful factory amplifier. If you were using one, you would set the input voltage switch on "low"
1. Mark would this be a good combination with a Kicker CWD 82? 2. Is it 1 Ohm stable? 3. I don't see a fuse on the amp itself, does it have any other way of protection?
Not Mark, but: Given that they don't list a 1 Ohm power rating it's unlikely to be stable at 1 Ohm. That limits your chosen sub (dual 2 Ohm) to be hooked up in series, ie a 4 Ohm load. That'd give you 150W from this amp. They list 50 to 200 for the dub, so it should be OK, if not absolutely optimal. As to fuse/protection - looking at the manual it looks like they rely on upstream fusing, recommending a 30A fuse on the power wire. So if you run multiple amps, I'd use a fused distribution block, or put a separate inline fuse close to the amp, after an unfused distro block.
Question: would it be possible to use the clipping light on the amp to find the maximum undestorted radio output volume? Ie. turn the gain on the amp all the way down, play the 50Hz test tone and increase the volume on the radio until the clipping light illuminates? This should, in theory, be possible as the amp would see clipped signal already
That's precisely what the 4 channel version is designed to do. This can be paired with any brand and for running the highs. The split output from this amp is simply a copy of the same audio from the head unit. However, if you want the same quality then I'd stick with JL. Always looks better when the both amps have identical styling.
Hey mark, Would you happen to know how to wire a center speaker? For example, my car has two tweeters on the front dash as well as one in the center as well as the woofer in each front door. Looking to add a 4 channel amp for the, but want to keep the look close to stock. I normally wouldn’t pitch this question, but I can’t seem to find anything on any forum (afaik). 😂 Edit:wording
Might be a stupid question, but there's no power fuse on the amp? Pretty much all the car amps I've seen has one or more power input fuses, I dont see any fuse on this amp...
As DonNerdo explains, modern amps have protective circuitry that resets protecting the amp. This is not a replacements for an in-line fuse, which protects your power source line.
I have a question i have a line output converter so I can get rca.now if I put this amp in offset or signel and I close the door or boot my sub goes crazy like its getting full power but the head unit and car is off.ive had another amp that did this when current goes to the amp but the headunit takes time to turn on.only amp what didn't do this was a hifonics amp what had soft turn on and it helped with the mad craziness. Any ideas ?
He has a video serious where he installed a full C3 system into his dad's SUV. Believe it's called High sound quality system in an everyday driver vehicle. Something to that effect.
I ran a w0 15 off this amp and it not only pounded for 250 watts but the sq is great yeah jl is pricey but you get what you pay for I currently have 2 w0s running off a 500/1 and they beat way harder then kicker comp rs getting 300 watts rms a piece off a pioneer amp
I read the JL level setting guide and it says the raise the gain until the clipping light is solidly lit... instead of back it off. Which way is correct?
DonNerdo just chatted with JL, they say to set the gain by slowly raising until the clipping light is solidly lit and leave it there do not bring it down. Good to know!
@@CarAudioFabrication I was referring to the 500 watt amp from JL that you referenced in the beginning of the video. But it sounds like I might need the 1000 watt
Is an entry level amp really going to sound that bad when pairing them with high end speakers? I was recently in my local JL dealer and they really didn’t want to sell me a JD amp because I told them it was going to power a couple 4inch focal k2 mids.
Been sucker for Alpine head units and amps, but i run Hertz D Power 1 as my sub-amp. It's same footprint as that JL audio one talk about One thing that Hertz is missing is proper terminals, it has those "screw down plates" and i hated them from day one
I have the 500 watt version of this amp and it sounded noticeably better than the 500 watts kenwood amp I was replacing. Really made me want to invest in their 4 channel amp on this line too.
What model of Kenwood you have?? I have the JL Audio JX 1000 series for my w7 and kenwood excelon series. I think excelon have better sound quality then JX but for more power JL. I was thinking upgrading for this amp maybe sound quality improve.
@mrb9106 I had a kenwood KAC-500 for my sub I believe. It wasn’t their excelon series. My speaker amp is a kac-6407. It doesn’t sound bad but I like to match.
I installed the JD500/1 in my car a few days ago. I LOVE THAT THING! I am still working on cleaning up my install with the help of this channel. This is the first time I install a full sound system (stereo, speakers, amp and sub). I am now working on doing the big 3 and upgrade my alternator.
I watched JL's overview video on this series the day it launched, this is definitely a lot of amp.. it's entry level, but it's a few giant steps above entry level quality.
These are nice little entry level amps! I had the JD 400/4 in my setup before getting more power hungry speakers and upgrading to the JL audio HD 600/4 and XD700/5v2. I’m very impressed with all JL amps I’ve used so far
I have a full set of the previous generation JX amps. I started off with the 250/1 & had it for years until it was time for an upgrade & of course I stuck with the JL Audio JX range & I’m now running 2 x 1000/1 & 2 x 360/2. After seeing this amp I want to upgrade to the new generation JD amps but I can’t justify the cost at the mo!😔 I’m a JL lifer these days & when time comes to replace I will stick with them for sure. So many new sick features over the JX & the JX aren’t crap either!🤣 Mark your review videos are great as you cover all the good shit! I just wish you was in the UK!😜👍🏻
I'm glad you do all these helpful videos Mark. I'm no dummy when it comes to car audio, but every little tip and trick is extremely useful and helps a lot! Thank you sir for doing this!
They are decent price. I will be definitely looking into them since i am doing a full JL audio build in my Tundra.
I’m a sucker for clip lights right on the amp! Definitely a feature packed budget friendly amp.
Great video! Love JL Audio so I’m super happy to see you reviewing their stuff. I love the clip light. I wish my HD900/5 had it!
For those who complain about JL Audio prices, do you have any idea how convenient and sometimes essential all of these rare features are? There's so much built into when these entry level amps. I run all JL Audio.
JL Audio HD750/1 to JL 10W7
JL HD600/4 to JL C5-650 doors & RBH 4” Beryllium on dash
JL 300/4 to Vifa tweeters on dash and bass shaker in seat
JL Twk88 DSP to run 3 way active front. No rears
JL Audio is subjectively the Best, and objectively easily within the top 5 car audio manufacturers.
Get what ya pay for!!!
I watched this video & went to Crutchfield to order the 500/1 for my 2 15w0v3 subs. Really wanted my old school planet audio to push em but you can hear they are craving better quality amplification. Thanks for such a great in depth video!!!
2:13 ... good information on power output, the majority will not be running an upgraded electrical system(alternator/batteries/etc), for the past 20 years, autos have a charging system monitor that feeds information to the PCM typically connected to a sensor attached to the negative side of the battery cable, my 2005 gmc sierra 1500 has this. After the vehicle is first started, the alternator output will be at a typical +14.4v, as the battery is monitored and slowly charged back up, the charging system will go down to +12.6v so it doesnt get overcharged and be kept topped off, at least during the day with all running lights off. At night time with all the running lights on, the alternator output will usually stay at a constant +14.4v due to the load demand and other accessories you have running at the time.
3:49 I’ve also found this useful for adding a second location to connect a sub box. My subwoofer works in two locations depending on whether the third row seat is folded or not.
Cool idea!
Great review! You're always super through when explaining this stuff to newbs like me! Thanks for sharing
Love your videos. Great for a beginner or someone who wants a refresher.
Thanks for this video. Will definitely check them out. Seems like a really good choice for entry level amps.
I had an entry-level jl audio subs amp and it was so nice!!! Only thing missing is a super sonic filter!!!
You seriously make the best review videos, I love the details you show that everyone else ignores. And I find myself pulling out my wallet everytime.. dang you lol 😆
Wilston Audio Labs is where it's at for me. These are good aswell; I just like to see everything dyno'd.
I like how amp said 8 gauge and you feed it 4 , more power the better. .. love ur videos and ur passion for ur craft!
€_€
I love JL Audio.. I just started to install a small system in my Honda Civic because of the Roni Rona. I installed one 10 inch sub in the JL audio H.O. pre fab enclosure and small amplifier XD600/V2. I really like your video's!
This amp is way better than entry level tf 😂
JL is top notch
Love your videos! Thank you! Keep them up. If you're ever in Orlando, social distanced drinks are on me!
I recently installed the JD 400/4 in my Camaro and am very pleased with the performance. These amps deliver a pretty powerful punch at a very reasonable price point.
Thank you for helping all of us
You're welcome, thanks for watching 💪
I was biased against JL audio for years and always thought there was better stuff at the same price point. I have since changed my mind a bit. There RD line up is hard to beat at the price point. I currently run the XD lineup and it is amazing.
As a recommendation for the quick remove power connection look into Powercon connectors, They are used in Professional live audio and lighting applications, they are rated for at least 3600W and you would be able to use all 3 of the power terminals +/-/Rem in one connector.
There is a reason Neutrik has become the default standard for audio connections in Professional AVL. I definitely recommend trying out the PowerCon. They can't come loose on you and provide excellent grip on the cable jacket to prevent the wire connection points from getting pulled on.
@@TheBurnout96 you are right, I took the 3600W from 230V ac. I forgot you needed far more amps and those amps are what causes most of the heat instead of the voltage. Yet again I believe it would be usable for this specific amp setup. And in my opinion it would look better compared to those gray plugs (They remind me of forklift charger plugs)
I used to have the previous gen of the 250rms watts and those tiny amps have more balls than those that claim to be 1200 watts!! It provides enough power for a single 10” w3 which that amp is made for or w7’s now but they can easily power 2-10” no problem. I highly recommend.
Its nice to watch a video so useful to newbies like me a big fan here in the philippines always watching your video wish i had one of those sub aits like my dream to have a set up in my mini van like my toyota avanza 2015 e but dont have the budget , because of some priorities id love to have it and put in in my ride . Hoping to learn on your next video big fan here in PH
I'm looking forward to the next video. I want the all-in-one box. ;)
So when using a ported sub box with this amp is there a need to for a subsonic filter? I was under the impression that if one is not used it can damage your sub in ported applications. When would you need an amp that does have these options?
Hi sure it could also see distortion on the input being its the same thing, the dd1 can test through the amp also
If I remember correctly, the NEXTd use next-gen FETs that are highly current efficient, but are surface mount (I don't see any power or output FETs with the bottoms cover removed). If one of those go bad, the repair tech had better be good and qualified for SMD repair. Thankfully JL's repair services for amps is actually very very reasonably priced.
whats the efficiency like on this?
I have the older Slash series 5 channel JLAUDIO amp. I am keeping that. Great amp. I have the older series JLAUDIO component speakers and the older JLAUDIO 8 inch ported sub. Keeping all that too.
Can you do a video on the 4 channel version of this amp?
Perhaps in the future. 👍
For the remote wire you can tap into a fuse in your fuse box. I wrapped my remote wire around a 12v plug in fuse that’s always on so if my car is on, the amp is on
This is not the correct way to do things.
This line or JX models are just awesome!! I have tested 250, 500 and 1000w and they rock!!!!
When setting the clipping setting, you said to turn off the "loud" setting on my aftermarket head unit. Can I turn it back on afterwards? Or am I supposed to leave it off?
I have a DD1 but as an installer at a shop it's always nice to have a clipping light so I ain't gotta pull that out
Thanks for the info great job 👍
Thanks for tuning in
Hey 👋. Could I use this amp just for 2 tweeters with bass blockers and up the crossover frequency to max 250?
This line is just the upgrade to the JX series amplifiers. The JX had been their entry level line for many years. They have had a 250.1 500.1 1000.1 400.4
Still new.
@@CarAudioFabrication o yeah for sure! Just same power platform and specs. Love your videos. You are crazy talented. Glad you're reppin JL! Hope to see you review Morel someday! Keep it up dude!👍
Just got this amp and a epicenter but I’m not sure what the amp input max voltage
Awesome info!
I bought this amp almost new for 20 dollars. I think it will be good for 2 8 inch subwoofers
Good to know
OK, great to know
I'm amazed there is no onboard fuse. Thought that was specific to Brazilian style amps
Why would I be able to turn the clipping all the way up without the light coming on?
It’s the 500 watt version with two 250watt subs.
To tune it to the right sound I turn the bass boost 90% up.
I can turn it all the way up if I wanted.
The other setting is at 80 like yours.
Thanks for any input you can give.
Did you ever find the issue I have the same problem
I'd love to see how to set input sensitivity and find clipping using an old school oscilloscope. I have one but cant figure out how to set it up and use it for car audio.
The 500/1 on the jl website says to put the input sensitivity until it’s solidly lit red just fyi
My girlfriend entered with an x8v3d2 and a sfb1000d. Not bad for her first setup.
I want to get JL audio monoblock and speaker. I want to build all in unit myself. I don't know if I should get 250W amp and speaker or 250W speaker and 500w amp to feed clean signal to the speaker ? 🤷🏻♂️
Protective sleeve....homie that's a bag!😂😂
A 250 would be really good for a JL 8w1v3, right? Just looking to do a small upgrade from my factory 8” sub.
Guessing you might have a 4Runner possibly? I'm doing the same audio upgrade
What wire kit are you using? It looks really nice. I know that he said 4 gauge but what brand?
www.knukonceptz.com
If you go to his website he has banners for a lot of the vendors he uses. www.caraudiofabrication.com
KnuKonceptz
A have a question, is the same configuration using a epicenter with amp ????
i am building a custom enclosure in my jeep liberty. 2 12” l7s, 4 kicker 6x9s and 2 amps. all fiberglass built in and one piece. never done anything even remotely similar but i am going to use your videos as a guide. so thanks! and also, i haven’t seen much about ported fiberglass enclosures. do you recommend fiberglass enclosures be sealed?
i m trying to buy a amplifier 250 w but not sure what amplifier to used i have one JL audio speak and what wire kit will be good for it
Wish JL made head units. Would be all over that
They would have to hire an entire division to do that. Head Units require a dramatically different electrical engineering knowledge and experience from speaker design. If they connected with a top quality engineer in that realm they were interested in hiring then it could happen. But that's the only way I see that coming about.
What’s a better buy a JD400/4 or a Sfb-200.4D
May I use regular speaker with this
I don't like subwoofer.?
You would want the four channel version.
Quick question how you tune a dual woofer ported box in cabinet no divider
so i just bought this amp ALSO my KnuKonceptz wire kit came with a 80A AGU Fuse . do i need a 30A AGU Fuse ? i don't want to damage THE AMP
I’m installing the 500 watt model in my car.
Would a jd500/1 and a jd400/4 be to much for my car’s electrical system? I’m not gonna be running them at max power.
This might sound dumb, but I’m trying to figure out what size fuse I need for multiple amps. I watched you video on how to calculate them. I have the jd400 hooked up to 4 kicker 75watt door speakers. What would you say is the peak output of the 400 setup that way? Thanks for any info.
I have the jd500/1 4 channel , if I want to set up what hz test track would I use ?
can you flip the emblem over on these
Any way you could do a video for the people who are just starting out on what sub distortion actually sounds like? A lot of newbies don't know that it's harder to hear when it starts when the sub is in the trunk. Heck, there are a lot that don't even know what distortion sounds like period. They usually roll up to the gas station, windows down, blasting a heavily clipped sub signal and actually think they're bumping nice and hard. I feel embarrassed for them.
I am completely new to this whole car audio stuff. But do i need one amp for my 4 speakers and then another for the subwoofer? and how do they connect? So about 500€ just for amp´s then 200€ for speakers and whatever the subwoofer is what i have to expect as entry or am i getting something wrong?
is it enough with JL Audio W3 6W3v3-4 this speaker??
I just installed the jd/400 amp with some component speakers and rear coaxial speakers how do i figure out what filter frequency to set it on ??? i hope you see these
No fuse on the amp itself? Is this common now?
is there any substitution for the bass knob? or is the rbc-1 the only one i can use for it?
Do you make custom in closures for customers I’m looking for a small rear center with a 6.5 sub for my Cl55 coupe I have the rear center console I could send you for measurements
If using an LC2i with this do I want it on low setting or high?
You won't need an LC2i or similar unless you are using a signal from a powerful factory amplifier. If you were using one, you would set the input voltage switch on "low"
I have a JL 500D. I forever wondered and didn,t find an answer. why these jl amps don,t have fuses?
The amps circuitry is self protecting without fuses. Remember, when you fuse you are protecting the wire, not the component itself.
I have a space for a 8 inch subwoofer. Is it worth it?
Does this amp require a high-low converter on an OEM system?
1. Mark would this be a good combination with a Kicker CWD 82?
2. Is it 1 Ohm stable?
3. I don't see a fuse on the amp itself, does it have any other way of protection?
Not Mark, but: Given that they don't list a 1 Ohm power rating it's unlikely to be stable at 1 Ohm.
That limits your chosen sub (dual 2 Ohm) to be hooked up in series, ie a 4 Ohm load. That'd give you 150W from this amp.
They list 50 to 200 for the dub, so it should be OK, if not absolutely optimal.
As to fuse/protection - looking at the manual it looks like they rely on upstream fusing, recommending a 30A fuse on the power wire. So if you run multiple amps, I'd use a fused distribution block, or put a separate inline fuse close to the amp, after an unfused distro block.
Hello. I have a single JL audio 10” wov3 300watt that I want to connect, will this JD250/1 amp work well with it? Thanks In advance
Question: would it be possible to use the clipping light on the amp to find the maximum undestorted radio output volume? Ie. turn the gain on the amp all the way down, play the 50Hz test tone and increase the volume on the radio until the clipping light illuminates? This should, in theory, be possible as the amp would see clipped signal already
Not really. The amp's LED is connected to a circuit that monitors output clipping, not whether the signal coming in is clipped.
Would the 4 channel amp be good to run your highs? And what speaker brand do you recommend they be paired with?
That's precisely what the 4 channel version is designed to do. This can be paired with any brand and for running the highs. The split output from this amp is simply a copy of the same audio from the head unit. However, if you want the same quality then I'd stick with JL. Always looks better when the both amps have identical styling.
MARK!! Thank you, you just gave me my first content creator Heart! =)
Hey mark, Would you happen to know how to wire a center speaker? For example, my car has two tweeters on the front dash as well as one in the center as well as the woofer in each front door. Looking to add a 4 channel amp for the, but want to keep the look close to stock. I normally wouldn’t pitch this question, but I can’t seem to find anything on any forum (afaik). 😂
Edit:wording
Hello im trying to power 4 prv 10chuchero what amp would be good for that?
Might be a stupid question, but there's no power fuse on the amp? Pretty much all the car amps I've seen has one or more power input fuses, I dont see any fuse on this amp...
As DonNerdo explains, modern amps have protective circuitry that resets protecting the amp. This is not a replacements for an in-line fuse, which protects your power source line.
Hey. Do I need a line driver if I'm only upgrading my 4 stock speakers and including an amp? I have an after market head unit.
I have a question i have a line output converter so I can get rca.now if I put this amp in offset or signel and I close the door or boot my sub goes crazy like its getting full power but the head unit and car is off.ive had another amp that did this when current goes to the amp but the headunit takes time to turn on.only amp what didn't do this was a hifonics amp what had soft turn on and it helped with the mad craziness. Any ideas ?
Review the c3 speakers! I have the c2 and wanna upgrade.
He has a video serious where he installed a full C3 system into his dad's SUV. Believe it's called High sound quality system in an everyday driver vehicle. Something to that effect.
I ran a w0 15 off this amp and it not only pounded for 250 watts but the sq is great yeah jl is pricey but you get what you pay for I currently have 2 w0s running off a 500/1 and they beat way harder then kicker comp rs getting 300 watts rms a piece off a pioneer amp
I read the JL level setting guide and it says the raise the gain until the clipping light is solidly lit... instead of back it off. Which way is correct?
DonNerdo just chatted with JL, they say to set the gain by slowly raising until the clipping light is solidly lit and leave it there do not bring it down. Good to know!
the 300/4 should have no issue giving you power to your front stage and a bridged subwoofer channel for a w0 - w3 series woofer. eh?
Would the 500 series be enough to power a JL 10TW-D8?
The 500 watt amp? You would want to pay attention to the subwoofer impedance as the TW3s are rated at 400 watts RMS.
@@CarAudioFabrication I was referring to the 500 watt amp from JL that you referenced in the beginning of the video. But it sounds like I might need the 1000 watt
What are you using to play those specific frequencies??
They have the test tracks on their help center page
@@CarAudioFabrication cool. Thanks!!
What is the Bass knob called?
RDC-1
I got the 500 coming got it for £212 quid have a 10 jl audio w6 be enough for what I need. And I've had far louder before lol
Does the JLAudio entry level amp have the same "price tag" as the entry level amp for sale at a Flea Market?
Nope, it has a vastly different level of quality though.
I have the older model amp to these. The JX. I have a 8" W3V3 on the JX 250/1 and 4 - 5x7 JL C2 on a JX 400/4. Sounds amazing in my F150 XLT
Do you know if this amp can perform at 1ohm?
2ohm stable
Is an entry level amp really going to sound that bad when pairing them with high end speakers? I was recently in my local JL dealer and they really didn’t want to sell me a JD amp because I told them it was going to power a couple 4inch focal k2 mids.
It would sound great.
DonNerdo I should have specified, I was looking at the JD 400/4 which is a class D full range amp.
Been sucker for Alpine head units and amps, but i run Hertz D Power 1 as my sub-amp. It's same footprint as that JL audio one talk about
One thing that Hertz is missing is proper terminals, it has those "screw down plates" and i hated them from day one