Wow! My hat is off to you Sir. What a job you have there. It looks like you are making good progress. Thanks for documenting the work. I am learning a lot of new things about boat construction & repair. Cheers : )
takes a lot of motivation (and cash) to go this deep in. ive got to do some this stuff on my 66 swedish folk. not sure which is more involved, replacing the sternpost of the floors and keel bolts? after that comes the 5 broken hull ribs and redoing the roof...
Hello, quite a lot of work, to be done. One tip: If You're just one and need to use copper nails with thoose konklave vashers, use pliers with sharp tooth, when setting washer down and then bite little bit in nail and pull to side, to tighten the nail back and hit the washer again and again pull the nail by pliers. Before removing the extra length of nail, nail shoudl be bent to prevent loosing when hammering. My english has it's limits, but hope, You'll understand. Keep up good work :)
Interesting tip. I hope I understood what you are trying to say. Does that mean you can do away with another person pushing up against the nail on the outside? So you can get the nail secured on your own?
Amazing job you're doing there. It's a bit of an eye opener to someone like myself who has always loved the idea of owning a classic wooden boat! Thanks for all the detail you're including with these.
Whitworth and unc have the same tpi but for half inch ,whitworth is 12tpi unc 13 tpi the angle on the thread on whitworth is 55deg and on unc its 60 deg hence the slight tightness , good work. thanks.
Another fine channel that I am pleased to have discovered. I appreciate your effort to bring me into your workspace and I look forward to following the rebuild process. Thank you.
It was lovely to see Paul Jones back on the water the other day, great work! I’ve been watching “rebuilding Tally Ho” from the Sampson Boat Company whose videos are quite similar in style to yours, you might like it.
Amazing job. Only comment is that CT1 does not last as well as sikaflex. I’ve had to redo things I sealed with CT1 after a couple years but Sikaflex never dies
Thank you, Steve. You mentioned putting in new screws to tighten down the planks because the old ones are not holding down well no more. Do you remove the old screws and putting the new screws into the same old holes, or are you adding new screws to the planks without touching the old screws? Really appreciate your video. Very instructive.
Hi Steve, you are doing a good job, once you have the hull buttoned up will you launch and then finish off on the water? Also where did you get the red-lead? Dave.
It's very unlikely that I'll get the interior back in place before launching but I'm hoping to get some varnishing and painting done while I still have the boat under cover. The red lead putty, seam wax and glue all came from Traditional Boat Supplies in Bristol. They also supplied Swedish Pitch which I'll be running into the forward bilges once the seams are done. www.traditionalboatsupplies.com ask for Nick Rolt.
Fantastic work Steve. It was looking pretty grim there for a while. Question - I thought that floors were important to attach the ribs to the keel. I see that you don't have floors for each set of ribs. Are the floors attached to the ribs at all, or just to the lowest planks? Keep it up! I loooooove folkboats!
Bigger boats with frames that are sawn from substantial timbers are more likely to have floors fixed to frames. On my boat the frames are about an inch square and are made from oak that has been steamed and bent into shape. They are too small to hold a fixing through the side. It occurred to me that a hull built like this is a bit like a fabric with threads (planks and frames) woven together, so the best way to fix the floor timbers to the hull is through the planking.
I'm not an expert on this subject but I believe that having different metals close together, particularly in a wet salty environment, can cause a kind of chemical or electrical reaction which can result in corrosion. So I tried to use tape to stop the bronze bolt from touching the stainless bracket. I don't know how well it will work but it seemed like the right thing to do.
@@roundandsquareboats1608 The reason I'm asking is that I have a similar vintage English FB. A previous owner has replaced some floors with stainless ones and the attached planking has rotted quite badly. I'm looking to replace the planking myself but want to prevent this happening again so will replace the floors with wooden ones if this is the problem.
As I said before I'm not an expert... But... What type of fastening was used to fix the planks to the stainless floors? As per my earlier answer, different metals react with each other a bit like a battery. This can cause corrosion in the metals but even worse, a bi-product of the reaction can be sodium hydroxide (AKA caustic soda). This is a powerful alkali which burns into the wood around the fixing and causes nail sickness which looks like and encourages rot. When I was doing the fixing on my boat I thought about using a stainless bolt but apparently using stainless fixings below the waterline can lead to a mysterious condition called crevice corrosion which can eat through the middle of a fixing leaving either end perfectly in tact. So as I used a bronze fixing through the stem of the hull I should probably have replaced the existing stainless bracket with a bronze one but sometimes you have to stop spending money and go sailing.Hence the pic tape which I used to insulate the two parts. By the way, the bracket was previously fixed to the inner face of the stem with mild steel coach bolts which had rotted away. I'd previously replaced these with stainless screws but they also pulled out fairly quickly. My boat isn't being lifted out this winter but the mast is off so I'll probably investigate to see how things are holding up. The best info I've found on this stuff is in The Big Book of Wooden Boat restoration by T. Larrson. Interestingly, Larrson recommends using good quality stainless below the water line but I've read comments elsewhere that he's writing about Scandinavian waters which apparently aren't very salty. The whole subject is an absolute mine field. I think you just have to do a bit of research, do what feels right then chuck your boat in the sea and go sailing, And remember that whatever you do the sea will always win. There's no such thing as a permanent fix. It's just a matter of timing.
@@roundandsquareboats1608 Thanks for this Steve, a lot for consideration. I'll have a better look at the problem next time I visit the boat but thought I'd seen stainless fixings written on a previous survey - I will go and check. Ordered the book and will continue to research elsewhere, much appreciated.
I was born 1961 and I think that your boat is now in better condition than me🤣. Great job , congratulations!
The boat is in very good shape, May be, better than in 61...
Great stuff! Thank you.
Wow! My hat is off to you Sir. What a job you have there. It looks like you are making good progress. Thanks for documenting the work. I am learning a lot of new things about boat construction & repair. Cheers : )
Nicely done new paint!
Thank you for sharing your story. I’ve learned a lot watching. You are a natural storyteller.
Love it! So fun to watch someone realize their dreams. Good work!
takes a lot of motivation (and cash) to go this deep in. ive got to do some this stuff on my 66 swedish folk. not sure which is more involved, replacing the sternpost of the floors and keel bolts? after that comes the 5 broken hull ribs and redoing the roof...
Hello, quite a lot of work, to be done. One tip: If You're just one and need to use copper nails with thoose konklave vashers, use pliers with sharp tooth, when setting washer down and then bite little bit in nail and pull to side, to tighten the nail back and hit the washer again and again pull the nail by pliers. Before removing the extra length of nail, nail shoudl be bent to prevent loosing when hammering. My english has it's limits, but hope, You'll understand. Keep up good work :)
Interesting tip. I hope I understood what you are trying to say. Does that mean you can do away with another person pushing up against the nail on the outside? So you can get the nail secured on your own?
@@josephlai9759 yes.
@@vladabocanek3703 Thank you.
Amazing job you're doing there. It's a bit of an eye opener to someone like myself who has always loved the idea of owning a classic wooden boat! Thanks for all the detail you're including with these.
Whitworth and unc have the same tpi but for half inch ,whitworth is 12tpi unc 13 tpi the angle on the thread on whitworth is 55deg and on unc its 60 deg hence the slight tightness , good work. thanks.
Another fine channel that I am pleased to have discovered. I appreciate your effort to bring me into your workspace and I look forward to following the rebuild process. Thank you.
just binged watched your progress steve. well done! Will hopefully see you sailing by from the other side of the forth!
Great job Steve, quality of film making catching up with your traditional boat restoration skills! Just sorry I can't spare time to help out.
Good stuff!
Great stuff Steve head down and keep going meet you in the Irish sea one of these days ! R
It was lovely to see Paul Jones back on the water the other day, great work! I’ve been watching “rebuilding Tally Ho” from the Sampson Boat Company whose videos are quite similar in style to yours, you might like it.
Amazing job. Only comment is that CT1 does not last as well as sikaflex. I’ve had to redo things I sealed with CT1 after a couple years but Sikaflex never dies
You might think about switching over to screws to secure your new decks. that wood works quite a bit with humidity changing so much. Nice work!
8:10 Excellent job syncing the hammer blows to the music!
Sorry for asking if you’d found all the rot! Good work on the repair though. Looking lovely down below now.
That's alright... I was trying my best to ignore it but you gave me a welcome nudge.
Yeah Tar putty works to keep out water
Thank you, Steve. You mentioned putting in new screws to tighten down the planks because the old ones are not holding down well no more. Do you remove the old screws and putting the new screws into the same old holes, or are you adding new screws to the planks without touching the old screws? Really appreciate your video. Very instructive.
You mentioned that turning up the music when you hit corners isn't working anymore.
You may consider getting a better sound system.
what was the glue you was useing and where can you get it
Hi Steve, you are doing a good job, once you have the hull buttoned up will you launch and then finish off on the water? Also where did you get the red-lead? Dave.
It's very unlikely that I'll get the interior back in place before launching but I'm hoping to get some varnishing and painting done while I still have the boat under cover. The red lead putty, seam wax and glue all came from Traditional Boat Supplies in Bristol. They also supplied Swedish Pitch which I'll be running into the forward bilges once the seams are done. www.traditionalboatsupplies.com ask for Nick Rolt.
Fantastic work Steve. It was looking pretty grim there for a while. Question - I thought that floors were important to attach the ribs to the keel. I see that you don't have floors for each set of ribs. Are the floors attached to the ribs at all, or just to the lowest planks?
Keep it up! I loooooove folkboats!
Bigger boats with frames that are sawn from substantial timbers are more likely to have floors fixed to frames. On my boat the frames are about an inch square and are made from oak that has been steamed and bent into shape. They are too small to hold a fixing through the side. It occurred to me that a hull built like this is a bit like a fabric with threads (planks and frames) woven together, so the best way to fix the floor timbers to the hull is through the planking.
Hi Steve, you mentioned taping the stainless bolt to prevent corrosion - can you elaborate on this?
I'm not an expert on this subject but I believe that having different metals close together, particularly in a wet salty environment, can cause a kind of chemical or electrical reaction which can result in corrosion. So I tried to use tape to stop the bronze bolt from touching the stainless bracket. I don't know how well it will work but it seemed like the right thing to do.
@@roundandsquareboats1608 The reason I'm asking is that I have a similar vintage English FB. A previous owner has replaced some floors with stainless ones and the attached planking has rotted quite badly. I'm looking to replace the planking myself but want to prevent this happening again so will replace the floors with wooden ones if this is the problem.
As I said before I'm not an expert... But... What type of fastening was used to fix the planks to the stainless floors? As per my earlier answer, different metals react with each other a bit like a battery. This can cause corrosion in the metals but even worse, a bi-product of the reaction can be sodium hydroxide (AKA caustic soda). This is a powerful alkali which burns into the wood around the fixing and causes nail sickness which looks like and encourages rot. When I was doing the fixing on my boat I thought about using a stainless bolt but apparently using stainless fixings below the waterline can lead to a mysterious condition called crevice corrosion which can eat through the middle of a fixing leaving either end perfectly in tact. So as I used a bronze fixing through the stem of the hull I should probably have replaced the existing stainless bracket with a bronze one but sometimes you have to stop spending money and go sailing.Hence the pic tape which I used to insulate the two parts. By the way, the bracket was previously fixed to the inner face of the stem with mild steel coach bolts which had rotted away. I'd previously replaced these with stainless screws but they also pulled out fairly quickly. My boat isn't being lifted out this winter but the mast is off so I'll probably investigate to see how things are holding up.
The best info I've found on this stuff is in The Big Book of Wooden Boat restoration by T. Larrson. Interestingly, Larrson recommends using good quality stainless below the water line but I've read comments elsewhere that he's writing about Scandinavian waters which apparently aren't very salty. The whole subject is an absolute mine field. I think you just have to do a bit of research, do what feels right then chuck your boat in the sea and go sailing, And remember that whatever you do the sea will always win. There's no such thing as a permanent fix. It's just a matter of timing.
@@roundandsquareboats1608 Thanks for this Steve, a lot for consideration. I'll have a better look at the problem next time I visit the boat but thought I'd seen stainless fixings written on a previous survey - I will go and check. Ordered the book and will continue to research elsewhere, much appreciated.
Water you keeps away from the outside
No Folkboat en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clinker_(boat_building)
Please not on the table saw.
Thanks for the video's
You sniffing a much with your nose....it is not nice to heare this every time...
In dutch we say......Behouden vaart..💪🏻🛶⚓️