This is fantastic! Thank you for going to the trouble of explaining how it works, It is so quick to make, that if I arrive on site without it, I can make it there and then. Regards Chris(UK)
Holy smokes Russ, you totally did it. Not only did you improve the tool by a mile, you showed how easy it was to make and how to use it, both with clarity. And it's a funny tool, so simple to make and use, yet tricky to understand. I spent a long time trying to think through how to explain it. The penny didn't drop until I actually used it a bit, and then it was clear. I like how you encouraged your viewers not to hold themselves back if they don't see how it works right away. Using it, especially with scraps at first, will make things clear. Anyhow, Bravo on a huge improvement and a thorough documentation of it!
Thanks George. You were the instructor, I just followed your idea as guided, like a good student. Like you, I had to play with it and fail a lot to finally have the light go on. Now what do you want to do? Do you still play . . . work with your 3D printer?
@@russveinot5754 Yes indeed. I now have two, largely so that I can service one without down time on the other. My latest print -- pretty simple -- was to make a hood for the tip of my pin nailer. It sets the pins proud so that they can be pulled out after the glue cures. Of course the same can be accomplished by pinning through a thin sliver of softwood.
@@georgefouriezos8863 I have been wanting to discuss the inherent weakness between the "layers" of a piece. I seem to remember you mentioning that. I think I may have a solution to give structures strength between layers. Was that you that told me that?
@@russveinot5754 I don't remember mentioning it, but it sure is something to be aware of when designing. If the structure is going to sustain compression forces, I don't worry about it. But if forces pull on it, then it's important to orient the piece so that layers are in-line with the pull, not at right angles to it. Another strategy is to angle the piece in place with supports so that the layers are at an angle to just about all tugs and shearing forces. Yet another strategy, after it's built, is to anneal the material with heat and slow cooling so that layers melt into each other. Does yours fall into one or another of these approaches? You've got me curious.
@@georgefouriezos8863 No, my thought was to drill small holes across layers and glue bamboo skewers to give it columns for strength, just like dowels in joints. maybe with 2 part epoxy.
Add a magnet to attach it to the saw. Seems so convenient to have around, no fuss! I think I need to write the steps to use it on the kerfmaker itself, I will forget.
I bought it off Ebay 6 years ago (about $40?) and it has no name brand on it. It is similar to the craftsman model. 4 important features to me were: 1. a scale with 1-degree increments on the scale (some have only 5-degree increments and goes to 30-degrees in both directions 2. has stops for the 90 and both 45-degree settings 3. it has slots to mount a fence instead of holes to make installing and removal easier. I like it even more than my Incra model. I looked online and can't find the exact one I bought but it is almost identical to the Craftsman model. Amazon has one listed as "Big Horn 14605 Standard Track Miter Gauge" that meets all the features except the scale reads at 5-degree increments. Hope this helps.
One might be, 2 worked perfect, so I just stopped adjusting. It might even be a different setting (maybe 3 or none) on your saw. Thanks for the kind words.
Very good. Someone else has a video just like yours. I was concerned about putting your hand so close to the blade when cutting the piece vertically. Maybe find a way to clamp it? I wonder if 1 business card would work better. 1/128" ?
I have not seen anyone ask for a video on how to make box joints using this nmp kerfmaker. Is there a quicker/smarter way than treating each groove (dado) as an iteration of this process, resetting the stop block each iteration?
I wouldn't rely on manually moving the stop block between finger joints. I would use my Incra jig or my finger joint jig I have. I could use the KM with the Incra, but I would have to think about exactly how. It would probably just make it more complicated to do finger joints. The KM is really suited to help with exact width rabbits, dados, and grooves. If I mentioned using the KM with finger joints, I was thinking a little too far OTB :>)
@@russveinot5754 Thanks, I have been trying to figure out how box joints could get simpler with the kerfmaker, lol -- it did seem to make it more of a job to me, but I could have just not been seeing enough. (I can see, however, if you're only having one and two fingers, a really simple version of a finger joint, just using the kerf maker could be quicker than making up a jig. I don't have an Incrajig -- the only way I've done it is to make up a crosscut board with a spacer block the size of the finger I want, and leapfrog over the spacer for as many fingers as I want.
@@rwind656 multiple 1/2 inch spacer stop blocks with the KM set at 1/2 inch? Start with enough spacers to clear the first joint then remove two spacers to step over a half inch? Set the KM at 1/4 and remove 1 spacer? Or something like that. There's a guy on youtube who did it this way with a router table and sled, I tried it and it works... Gonna test the KM version ASAP.
I think there is a smarter way. Traditionally each dado is made with a left kerf cut, followed by a right kerf cut, and finally 0 or more cleanout cuts. But, observe that all the left kerfs are 2 finger widths apart. Same with all the right kerf cuts. I think the whole process would go faster in three passes. One for each of these steps. To cut all the left kerfs as one pass, cut the first one, then remove (or add if you wish) 2-finger widths of spacers. After the left and right passes finish the dados with a cleanout pass as needed. In addition to the kerfmaker, you will likely need a spacer one finger wide for dealing with the first finger.
Sorry it took me a while to answer. I had to go back and review the video. The extra 64th is fudge factor. you can sand it down to tighten the dado fit if it is too loose. If you go back and watch the last 5 minutes, I try to explain it.
Thanks Russ. I have one of the fancy Kerfmakers but this is brilliant. I wish I knew about this years ago before I spent too much buying mine. I’m not sure I understand how to build this so I’ll be going back to figure it out. One question. Does this have to be made for every thickness of wood. Mine is adjustable for thickness.
Yes, it is tied to that blade but it works for any thickness as I demonstrated. When I switched tablesaws, I switched kerfmaker. After a few goof ups and successes you will see how it works. I played with mine for 2 days (off and on) before figuring it out. You will be watching my video again after you try to make/use yours a couple of times, I'm betting :>)
I watched it again and I see that you are using the wood that will be inserted as a reference so that makes sense. On my Kerfmaker you have the saw kerf established on one setting and then you measure the wood thickness to determine the second setting or position.
@@Putttn Very Good ?!!? The difference is I just use a piece of material as a space with the kerfmaker instead of adding/changing the dimension of the kerfmaker.
The concept is excellent. I will need some time to figure out why you need the thickness compensation factor though. Obviously, I can just follow your directions but knowing why is important to me too.
why do you need this? all you need is a shim with the same thickness of your blades: the first cut you must place the stop block+the piece you want to fit in the dado; and finally in the second cut you remove the piece and add the blade thickness shim, and you have your dado
Oops :>) I am not very good at camera stuff. I do this with my surface tablet and a 30 yr. old tripod (very low tech). Can you do this without me remaking the shot? Thanks for the advise, AK
1. Genius to eliminate all the moving parts. 2. Adjust w/tape, obviously, cuz if you pick the wrong side just remove that tape & tape the other surface. 3. When Ur focus changes from cutting to dialog, turn the darn saw off for safety. U were scaring me there, thought U were going to nick an elbow
The camera angles are deceitful. I try to shut it off, but still hard to do live shots. I appreciate your bringing it to my attention, Mike. It helps me remember.
This is fantastic! Thank you for going to the trouble of explaining how it works, It is so quick to make, that if I arrive on site without it, I can make it there and then. Regards Chris(UK)
Thanks Chris . . . and welcome to my shop.
Holy smokes Russ, you totally did it. Not only did you improve the tool by a mile, you showed how easy it was to make and how to use it, both with clarity. And it's a funny tool, so simple to make and use, yet tricky to understand. I spent a long time trying to think through how to explain it. The penny didn't drop until I actually used it a bit, and then it was clear. I like how you encouraged your viewers not to hold themselves back if they don't see how it works right away. Using it, especially with scraps at first, will make things clear. Anyhow, Bravo on a huge improvement and a thorough documentation of it!
Thanks George. You were the instructor, I just followed your idea as guided, like a good student.
Like you, I had to play with it and fail a lot to finally have the light go on. Now what do you want to do? Do you still play . . . work with your 3D printer?
@@russveinot5754 Yes indeed. I now have two, largely so that I can service one without down time on the other. My latest print -- pretty simple -- was to make a hood for the tip of my pin nailer. It sets the pins proud so that they can be pulled out after the glue cures. Of course the same can be accomplished by pinning through a thin sliver of softwood.
@@georgefouriezos8863 I have been wanting to discuss the inherent weakness between the "layers" of a piece. I seem to remember you mentioning that. I think I may have a solution to give structures strength between layers. Was that you that told me that?
@@russveinot5754 I don't remember mentioning it, but it sure is something to be aware of when designing. If the structure is going to sustain compression forces, I don't worry about it. But if forces pull on it, then it's important to orient the piece so that layers are in-line with the pull, not at right angles to it. Another strategy is to angle the piece in place with supports so that the layers are at an angle to just about all tugs and shearing forces. Yet another strategy, after it's built, is to anneal the material with heat and slow cooling so that layers melt into each other. Does yours fall into one or another of these approaches? You've got me curious.
@@georgefouriezos8863 No, my thought was to drill small holes across layers and glue bamboo skewers to give it columns for strength, just like dowels in joints. maybe with 2 part epoxy.
just so you know I am an old fart but I love and appreciate your work, keep doing it.
Thanks. I'm a beginner and this video really helped me.
Respect sir 👍👏👏👏
Thanks, Peco, and welcome to my shop
Brilliant ! Really. Thanks for sharing the OTBG Kerfmaker with us. Thanks George and of course thanks Russ.
Our pleasure!, Brian :>)
Thank You George and Russ
Thanks Monte, we had fun doing this , too :>) Double win
Much simpler than getting a dado blade all set up and micro-adjusted, or creeping up on a groove to fit variations of a piece. Thanks!
I am all for any idea that is cheap, makes things more accurate, and/or easier. Thanks Windy
Did I miss the kerf maker challenge? :) Another great shop jig is on the to do list. Thanks Russ!
Thanks Tim.
Nice. Going to keep this in mind.
I have another idea of how to make one even better than this one. Coming very soon :>). Thanks Ken
Add a magnet to attach it to the saw. Seems so convenient to have around, no fuss! I think I need to write the steps to use it on the kerfmaker itself, I will forget.
I like that idea, Thanks Windy :>)
Clever design. I can't work out why you needed the extra. 1/64 inch on the kerf skinny end??
It is the fudge factor. I explained it in the last 5 minutes. You may or may not need the extra when you make yours. Thanks John.
G’day mate, what brand is the mitre gauge on your table saw?
It looks fantastic
I bought it off Ebay 6 years ago (about $40?) and it has no name brand on it. It is similar to the craftsman model. 4 important features to me were:
1. a scale with 1-degree increments on the scale (some have only 5-degree increments and goes to 30-degrees in both directions
2. has stops for the 90 and both 45-degree settings
3. it has slots to mount a fence instead of holes to make installing and removal easier.
I like it even more than my Incra model. I looked online and can't find the exact one I bought but it is almost identical to the Craftsman model. Amazon has one listed as "Big Horn 14605 Standard Track Miter Gauge" that meets all the features except the scale reads at 5-degree increments. Hope this helps.
very good, well done.
Thank you, ya ole fart :>)
inexpensive and SMART !
thanks for the video
maybe 1 business card is enouth.
One might be, 2 worked perfect, so I just stopped adjusting. It might even be a different setting (maybe 3 or none) on your saw. Thanks for the kind words.
Very good. Someone else has a video just like yours.
I was concerned about putting your hand so close to the blade when cutting the piece vertically. Maybe find a way to clamp it?
I wonder if 1 business card would work better. 1/128" ?
thanks Jim. I'm not as close as it appears on camera. A business card would work.
I have not seen anyone ask for a video on how to make box joints using this nmp kerfmaker. Is there a quicker/smarter way than treating each groove (dado) as an iteration of this process, resetting the stop block each iteration?
I wouldn't rely on manually moving the stop block between finger joints. I would use my Incra jig or my finger joint jig I have. I could use the KM with the Incra, but I would have to think about exactly how. It would probably just make it more complicated to do finger joints. The KM is really suited to help with exact width rabbits, dados, and grooves. If I mentioned using the KM with finger joints, I was thinking a little too far OTB :>)
@@russveinot5754 Thanks, I have been trying to figure out how box joints could get simpler with the kerfmaker, lol -- it did seem to make it more of a job to me, but I could have just not been seeing enough. (I can see, however, if you're only having one and two fingers, a really simple version of a finger joint, just using the kerf maker could be quicker than making up a jig. I don't have an Incrajig -- the only way I've done it is to make up a crosscut board with a spacer block the size of the finger I want, and leapfrog over the spacer for as many fingers as I want.
@@rwind656 multiple 1/2 inch spacer stop blocks with the KM set at 1/2 inch? Start with enough spacers to clear the first joint then remove two spacers to step over a half inch? Set the KM at 1/4 and remove 1 spacer? Or something like that. There's a guy on youtube who did it this way with a router table and sled, I tried it and it works... Gonna test the KM version ASAP.
I think there is a smarter way. Traditionally each dado is made with a left kerf cut, followed by a right kerf cut, and finally 0 or more cleanout cuts. But, observe that all the left kerfs are 2 finger widths apart. Same with all the right kerf cuts.
I think the whole process would go faster in three passes. One for each of these steps.
To cut all the left kerfs as one pass, cut the first one, then remove (or add if you wish) 2-finger widths of spacers. After the left and right passes finish the dados with a cleanout pass as needed.
In addition to the kerfmaker, you will likely need a spacer one finger wide for dealing with the first finger.
I would make one for each blade. To reduce the chance of getting mixed with which is the opposite side to use.
I agree.
I didn't see this video when it first came out. Why do you need to add the 1/64 of an inch to the kerf?
Sorry it took me a while to answer. I had to go back and review the video. The extra 64th is fudge factor. you can sand it down to tighten the dado fit if it is too loose. If you go back and watch the last 5 minutes, I try to explain it.
@@russveinot5754 Thanks for the answer. I saw your explanation at the end, but wasn't sure how you determined 1/64th. Trail and error explains it.
Thanks Russ. I have one of the fancy Kerfmakers but this is brilliant. I wish I knew about this years ago before I spent too much buying mine.
I’m not sure I understand how to build this so I’ll be going back to figure it out.
One question. Does this have to be made for every thickness of wood. Mine is adjustable for thickness.
Yes, it is tied to that blade but it works for any thickness as I demonstrated. When I switched tablesaws, I switched kerfmaker. After a few goof ups and successes you will see how it works. I played with mine for 2 days (off and on) before figuring it out. You will be watching my video again after you try to make/use yours a couple of times, I'm betting :>)
I watched it again and I see that you are using the wood that will be inserted as a reference so that makes sense. On my Kerfmaker you have the saw kerf established on one setting and then you measure the wood thickness to determine the second setting or position.
I haven't seen a commercial one that you can buy like yours, but I really like not having to measure the thickness of the shelf piece. Prevent errors!
@@Putttn Very Good ?!!? The difference is I just use a piece of material as a space with the kerfmaker instead of adding/changing the dimension of the kerfmaker.
Why the plus 64th of an inch? Why not make it the exact thickness of the blade?
Fudge factor. I found it can be lightly sanded to a perfect fit as needed.
How about George's OTB kerf maker!
I actually call my personal KM "George" in honor of him. Or are you asking me what I think of the KM George made?
The concept is excellent. I will need some time to figure out why you need the thickness compensation factor though. Obviously, I can just follow your directions but knowing why is important to me too.
Not sure why the factor either, just try without to start. If it's too loose, add the factor and try it then. Let me know how it works for you.
Please start posting your videos to Rumble also.
why do you need this? all you need is a shim with the same thickness of your blades: the first cut you must place the stop block+the piece you want to fit in the dado; and finally in the second cut you remove the piece and add the blade thickness shim, and you have your dado
I get it but wish the camera had been to your front right
Oops :>) I am not very good at camera stuff. I do this with my surface tablet and a 30 yr. old tripod (very low tech). Can you do this without me remaking the shot? Thanks for the advise, AK
@@russveinot5754 you do much better than I would. I’ve seen how hard it is to show things.
Yes I can accomplish making one from your example.
1. Genius to eliminate all the moving parts. 2. Adjust w/tape, obviously, cuz if you pick the wrong side just remove that tape & tape the other surface. 3. When Ur focus changes from cutting to dialog, turn the darn saw off for safety. U were scaring me there, thought U were going to nick an elbow
The camera angles are deceitful. I try to shut it off, but still hard to do live shots. I appreciate your bringing it to my attention, Mike. It helps me remember.
Too much talking. Overexplained complicated w simple process!
Not everyone is as smart as you and me. Too much info is always better than not enough. Thanks for your insight.