BIQU H2 Extruder Installation: Ender 5 Plus
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- To follow-up my BIQU H2 extruder review, this video walks through the complete installation on a Creality Ender 5 Plus 3D printer. I cover everything from wiring to mechanical install.
Product provided by BIQU for review purposes. No money has exchanged hands for this review.
#BIQU #H2 #Extruder
00:00:00 - Introduction
00:01:56 - What You'll Need (Mostly)
00:08:23 - Disassembly
00:09:49 - Test Fitting
00:10:41 - Planning and Cutting the Wires
00:17:31 - Adding Connectors
00:34:11 - Patreon Shoutouts!
00:35:02 - Installing the Extruder
00:44:40 - Wiring Up The Extruder
00:49:03 - Stepper Motor Wiring
00:53:13 - Connecting It All Together
00:55:08 - Installing The Part Cooling Fan
00:59:14 - Wrapping It All Up
01:02:46 - Filament Runout Sensor/Bowden Tube
01:06:40 - Nozzle/Cooler Issues
01:09:07 - Power On and Testing
01:12:19 - Setting Up the Extruder in Firmware
01:16:34 - Bed Leveling and Homing
Product Links:
Extruder:
BIQU H2 Extruder: amzn.to/2VWgW11
BIQU All Metal Heatbreaks: www.biqu.equipment/products/b...
Parts:
560PCS Heat Shrink Tubing: amzn.to/2WOLYbR
130PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors: amzn.to/3t9h75z
NEMA 17 stepper motor Extension Cable: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A7fduI
5 Pairs JST-XH 2.54mm 2-Pin Prewired: amzn.to/3Dz4Z2C
560Pcs 2.54mm 2/3/4/5 Pin JST-XH Connectors: amzn.to/3mW6CS5
Molex (2-Pin) Black Male & Female Connectors: amzn.to/3n1WF5T
Tools:
Note: There are less expensive versions of these tools. These are the ones I use. Prices vary.
Platinum Tools 15005C ProStrip 16/30 Wire Stripper: amzn.to/3yyFquU
Engineer Inc PA-20 Precise Universal Wire Terminal Crimping Tool: amzn.to/3BxqLly
Hakko CHP TRR-58-G Macro Soft Wire Cutter: amzn.to/3kNDCJB
Sequre SQ-001 Soldering Iron: sequremall.com/collections/so...
LEXIVON Butane Soldering Iron/Torch Multi-Purpose Kit: amzn.to/3BCApDo
You can purchase BIQU/Bigtreetech products directly: www.biqu.equipment/
This is not an affiliate link.
3D Models:
3D Print General Mount and Fan Shroud: www.thingiverse.com/thing:472...
5015 Fan Shroud: www.thingiverse.com/thing:472...
Test Prints:
3DBenchy: www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
Deadpool Bust: www.myminifactory.com/object/...
For Amazon Links: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Other purchase links may also be affiliate links.
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/ kerseyfabrications
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www.paypal.me/kerseyfabs
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Contact: kris@kerseyfabrications.com
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Kersey Fabrications
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I like that you show warts and all installation of the part, whereas some channels would have edited the video to show a perfect installation without any errors! Kudos to you Kris!
Thanks! I film it the first time, so you get what really happens. The only time I cut is for time or if it provides no value.
Yeah. I love that. It make me feel as a hobbyist like I am doing a good job.:0). And I to can make mistakes and get better.
Thanks for the install guide good sir. I have a Hemera waiting to get installed on one of my E5+ and just got a good deal on a H2 the other day for my other one. Keep up the great content man, we all appreciate it. Sincerely, a proud patreon supporter.
Thank you sir! This video should help with both of them. The process is the same, only the mounting changes.
Thanks again, Kris. Have a great time this weekend.
No problem! Thanks!
Great video! ^U^ Considering performing this upgrade in the future.
Go for it! I want to test the Hemera too now that I have the wiring done.
@@kerseyfabs Way out of my budget to get both. I've seen several videos of the H2 having bad QC parts and being a 50/50 DOA hit or miss. Hesitant to try.
Great vid as usual, I've really benefited from your all material. I now have several E5+'s and swapping the boards and screens out to the BTT gear following one of your previous videos. I would love to see a detailed video on PID tuning as I'm going to upgrade at least one of my hot ends.
I also have 2 E5+'s one upgraded to within an inch of its life and one is 100% stock but the stock E5+ is a pain in the arse to run and so much so to the point that I am going to have to upgrade it, the biggest problem is that the stock board will no longer allow me to update the firmware or use Pronterface as it wont connect to the computer despite updating the driver but it will connect to the Pi running Octopi(weird), I can update the BTT firmware with the same computer though so I have a fault on the stock board.
@@AndrewAHayes What up grades did you do to your E5+? I mainly use them with PLA and have found the Bowden setup is reliable for this. I have recently swapped a hotend and are now having issues with the thermistor.
@@scarecrow5927 I have a Dragon hot end and BMG extruder, SKR e3 mini v2 and BTT screen and running Insanity Automation 7.4 FW
It sounds like you need to PID tune your printer to get thermister accuracy
@@AndrewAHayes yes I’ve now got the PID tuning sorted with a vid from teaching tech.
I’ve had a really good run with my E5+’s, just starting to wear out parts now. I guess they have run 24/7 for 9 months now so to be expected. Going to put exoslides them as part of their maintenance upgrades I think.
I have a similar crimping tool and first do the wire part as you do, but then first use the ends of the tool to bend the sleevings part of the connector so that the two ends are parallel to each other, then grab the connector between my fingers instead of holding it from the wire and find the hole of the crimping tool the parallel ends now fit between, put it all the way in and then slowly crimp, watching out that none of the 2 ends moves sideways out of the crimping tool. With that approach my crimps now look pretty decent. At least good enough to not need an expensive dedicated tool for each connector type (for my amateur purposes).
Just want to offer a crimping tip. I prefer to mount the connector in the crimper and hold it ready, push the wire in so the insulation is just inside the strain relief and then crimp strain followed by wire.
Connector housings are typically referred to as male and female, but not always. The contacts are referred to as pins and sockets. The connectors that you are using are designed for a PC board mount, and plugin connector. You normally want to use an inline connector when connecting wires to wires. In inline connectors, you can typically intermix the pin and sockets on each end.
흥미로운 영상입니다~~ 자주 놀러올께요~~
It's an interesting video~ I'll come to play often~~
about the heater van, you do realize that it has a certain threshold to activate. the nozzle needs to be at a set temp and the heatsink needs to hit a certain temp for the van to kick in.
you should make an video on how to convert your ender 5 plus from marlin to klipper and show some comparisons in quite interested
I'd love to when I have the time. Thanks for the suggestion.
I want to see what prints you can get out off the printer. I love that it made the famous sound from the printers. I thought I was the only one that got it.lol. But yeah let's see some cool prints.
Can you show a closer view of how you repositioned the X-axis end stop? Also, I think my offset still wants to use the whole bed, so it homes X and then moves too far to the left to begin probing. Offsets don't seem o change much.
I just got the biqu h2v2s and this helped me out greatly. I was concerned about the extruder wiring.
Awesome! Thanks for the comment!
@@kerseyfabs when I plugged the extruder cable in on my CR10V3 the wiring wasn't right, I had to invert the direction in my klipper config to get it to extrude when I tell it to instead of retract.
@@Armor3dprinting At least the software made it easy!
@@kerseyfabs yea thank goodness for klipper lol
Kersey really need your help on selecting a hotend for my ender 5 plus. I had the stock for close to 3 years and started clogging often so I'd thought I'd upgrade. Went with the spider v4 (speedy) and it clogged in the 3-4 print so so I returned it... (2 of them already). Not looking for anything too fancy, just reliable and easy maintenance. The Ender 5 Plus is no longer my primary printer... so lust want it to work relatively well.
I'm actually playing with a couple of options now and a cool one is on the way to me. After I test it, I'll let you know. Are you looking for just the hotend or also the extruder?
What did you ever figure out about the hot end cooling fan not staying on? I'm having the same issue when i installed on my ender 3 v2.
Great video! Do you know if Amazon sells replace thermistors that are compatible with the H2 metal tube style?
Yes, they do. WinnSinn is the mfg.
Should add in, the stock ender 5 plus board seems to have massive issues with the thermistor, anything that i used to print at 215c is a stringing mess unless I print at 185c with the retration of 0.5mm @ 5mm/s etc, I tried 4mm/s yada yada
Is there any chance that you know the differences between doing the install on the Ender 5 plus and the Ender 6? I am pretty new to this and have no idea what I am doing at this point.
The install's going to be relatively the same on all Creality printers. The mounting plate you need may vary depending on how the plate is aligned.
Great video! Can I use the same printed parts for Ender 5 Pro?
I believe you can. I think the mounting plates are the same.
Great video, Kris. It's a shame you had to do all of that work to get a crappy extruder like the H2 installed, but the upside is now you can replace it with a Bondtech.
Well, as you said, the wiring is done now, so I can test some other options a lot easier!
I want a large format printer with tpu being what I print with would this be a good option. I have an h2 sitting there alone it needs a buddy
Well, I always recommend the Ender 5 Plus. These days I definitely recommend a board upgrade as well. Good luck with your H2.
Good video! I was thinking that a good way for manufacturers to get more money out of us that mods our printers, would to make a optional cable loom with these type of contacts already premade, or, hehe, somebody inte the community might take this as a company idea :D
I cant solder if my life depends on it, so that´s why I would not be able to do this by myself or start a selling process ^^
I completely agree. I wish these printers were designed a bit more upgrade friendly. A few connectors near the hotend would make a big difference.
Kris,
Again good job with the video! I just have a question… you have mentioned you don’t like direct drive extruders, so, why get into this one?
Good question. I'm not against direct drive in principle, I've just never found one that I think is worth the hassle and weight. I'm still looking for that DD extruder I can recommend to folks that ask.
@@kerseyfabs I have used the Microswiss extruder with a pancake stepper and had very good success!
I started using it when you did your video on it and then tested others and always came baba I to Microswiss.
I was surprised when you mentioned you didn’t like it some time after.
Which hot end and extruder for ender 5 plus to print out PLA with least maintanance possible?
My personal choice is the Micro Swiss all metal hotend. Even if you're not printing high-temp materials, the fact that there's no PTFE tube to wear out and need "hot end fixes" will save you a lot of headache. For the extruder, you can just upgrade the stock one to all-metal parts (as in my top 5 upgrades video) and it will work just fine. There are better extruders you can upgrade to, even for bowden setups but I'm not sure which ones have good mounting solutions at this time.
@@kerseyfabs before got an answer from you I have ordered bi-metal one, wonder how its going to end up. If fail I'll go for single-all-metal.
Who did you order the bi-metal from?
Lucky mine has massive retraction and extrusion issues, 0.4mm @ 4mm/s and small steps like that have nothing but issues
Not sure how you didn't have to rewire the extruder
hey brother im loosing it. do you or anyone else here know where i can find a fan duct system for the ender 5 plus with the exoslide system and micro swiss direct drive extruder? ive been looking around and even modified a hero me gen 5 model trying to get that one to work but its not working out haha now i cant print anything unless i change it back to stock cooling and dont know where to get a cooling system to print anyway.. thanks..
its almost there i would just need to stretch the fan ducts 1cm or so to get them on each side of the nozzle but i suck at fusion 360 lol
I honestly haven't ever looked for one. All I used was the stock one in my review. Ask around in some Ender 5 Plus Facebook groups or Reddit if you can't find one on Thingiverse.
Okay I will thank you
I use needle nose pliers for crimping lol
Ifit works for you, DO IT!
Why can you just leave the factory heater and and thermostat ?
The thermistor isn't the same, they secure differently. You could keep the same heater if you'd like.
How much bed space did you lose on the x and y axis
None.
@@kerseyfabs Awesome. Thanks for the reply.
You will be fighting with crimping tools for ever until you learn one thing. Every crimp pin has a proper crimper that must be used. Do your homework. Crimps are easy with the right tool. The hard part is finding the right tool.
Thank you. I always attempt to do my homework. Things like crimp tool sizes are difficult to figure out. I'd love it if there was some rule of thumb I wasn't aware of yet. I'm always open to be taught.
@@kerseyfabs I've been around 3D printers for only the past year but one of the first things I noticed was the crappy connectors used everywhere (that I've seen). They are the poorest quality that I've seen in my electro/mechanical career of 50+ years. Even so, the reliability could be much better if crimps were properly made using the proper crimper. The problem is nobody knows who makes these connectors so nobody can buy a crimper from them. We are left with a lot of aftermarket crimpers with cryptic names. Some of them can be made to work OK but it's strictly trial & error. I personally own many crimpers and have bought several more in the past year with little success. It's an expensive, time consuming proposition to buy/try every crimper you see advertised but I don't see an alternative. When you find one that does something well find a way to record your success so that you can repeat it when needed. If anyone ever does find out who makes these Chinese junk connectors I hope they will share that info.
Here is the tutorial I used to learn how to crimp. I find it works for all the various connections I need.
ua-cam.com/video/l0rAEPJoWeE/v-deo.html
Thanks for that!
im sorry but while 3d printing is a modders hobby if im paying 100$ it dam well better come with the mounting hardware in the box...
Lol there is much different printer with "non standard" gantry that it's simply not possible.
For every advanced extruder you will have to print the correct mounting system.
And now, most of the extruder constructor supply a list of STL to fit as much printer as possible.
@@hman72y ... on checkout you should be able to pick what printer and send the dam printed parts or have metal ones for the more popular models but to sell without anything is rediculous meaning you would need to have more than one printer to even upgrade...
@@b1n4ryk1lLa True, would be great for most of the people. In my case I was happy to mod my own support for the H2 ;)
your killing me, every time you say you have a short! if the fan is working the wire is connected and it's shorted. if you have an "open" then your fan won't work because of a open or break in the line. so please use open & shorted correctly. lol
I'd have to rewatch this. I don't recall where I may have misspoken. Sorry for your untimely demise. I do indeed know the difference. 😎
That rattling is too irritating to watch you video sorry.
What are you talking about? Where in the video are you hearing a rattling?
@@kerseyfabs Ok just so you know rattling and taping sounds are a pet-peeve of mine don't take offence to what I say LOL. The rattling / ticking starts at around the 35 mark sounds like fan blade hitting shield or something lol. I just ended up muting and putting on closed captions. I wrote that comment while watching video instead of waiting till the end.