This was a great explanation. I've wrestled with this on many different systems and my ears seem to have a particular sensitivity around 6Khz. I guess I need to get with the program and buy a good DSP so I can fine tune my system. Thank you!
This was amazing! I just upgraded the sound in my 2010 Honda Fit and I was at odds with the Focal Auditor RSE-165s that I bought for the front with their own tweeters and crossovers. I'm fortunate though to have also bought a head unit with parametric eq adjustment. I did the -6.0db adjustment and Q of 1 at the 5kHz point, and I noticed a genuine improvement in the "brightness" of these tweeters. This video I believe has saved my setup and I can look forward to enjoying it now more. Thank you!
Excellent video, explains so much and gives me a lot of clues to finetune my car audio. Especially the 2000-5000 range... Will try to get the bass more integrated too
Cone breakup in the midrange speaker was the main cause of harshness in my install. I swapped it for cheaper infinity speakers, and crossed over miss and tweeters further apart so there’s a scoop or recess between 1-2.2kHz. Basically, using the crossover as a slight eq adjustment worked great. I only run off head unit, no sound processor, and only has a standard restricted eq sliders at preset frequencies. Time alignment also helped a lot. After having time alignment, I can’t live without it. All that paired with tweeters on axis right at your ears, gives a super sweet, pleasant, high resolution kind of sound, even from basic speakers. (Doors fully treated too) if anyone’s wondering, the nvx components, second up from their cheapest set, was the culprit (just the woofer). The tweeters from that set are the best I’ve ever tried though, so I trust their tweeters a lot.
i have the focal sopra 3 and i was worried when i got them that they were going to be fatiguing , but not the case . i think the room treatment you have really helps . I was not disapointed at all ,
Yes technical, but that's what I expect when someone is talking about topics that involve a lot of technical knowledge and adjustments. Ha ha. This was a great post and you touched on the bigger reasons for these "failures" that most people do not know or understand. I have been fighting to get the "perfect" tune for months, and I am about to just sell the vehicle. Lol!!! I have a high end DSP and above mid range components that should be performing wonderfully... The only thing I changed about them from unboxing was removing the wired crossover. But now there is better wire attached for "assumed" improved signal and I don't have to worry about it not sounding right from one side to the other because I can't tweak it. Thanks for your time and effort to better educate people!! There are a lot of misinformed people that need posts like this. 😊
Most component sets come with cheap little neo tweeters that aren't that good, for one. Second, alot of installs are less than steller. There are a few general rules that will give better results in any car audio system: 1.) mount tweeters close to midrange/midbass driver 2.) equalize pathlengths between listener to left and right front speakers 3.) mount midbass drivers on solid surface 4.) the install counts for more than the drive units * one of the best sounding systems I designed/installed used super cheap drivers ($11.00 6.5" mid, $10.00 2.75" fullrange both powered by head unit, used MTX 12" subs powered by used Kenwood amp. total cost of around $100. Jeep Liberty my nephew had)
SB Acoustics SB21RDC-C000-4 Ring Dome Tweeter - "Ring radiator tweeters offer superior break-up modes compared to similar dome diaphragm models. This means the upper frequency range tends to be cleaner (lower distortion) and offers more extended response than similar conventional dome tweeters". This is one of my favorite "mid-priced" and affordable tweeters. SB Acoustics is "the shit". lol Thanks for the video.
I just switched to the new Scan Speak Illuminator D3004/660000 tweeters. "Textile" dome diaphragm with its "AirCirc Magnet System". I am beyond impressed..just beautiful high frequency's.
The only systems I have ever considered harsh, they have also all had hard dome tweeters. I have actually never been wrong about if the person has a hard dome tweeter or not, in my years of listening to high end competition systems. The absolute WORST offenders were the mid 1990s MB quart tweeters, people loved those things, but I couldn't get within 10 feet of the car and enjoy the sound coming out of them. They were absolutely brutal, I never did understand why people liked them, I just assumed people got them for free and used them on the competition circuit.
Until now I always preferred soft fabric tweeters, they usually have good air and low harshness or over sharpness, but I never use speaker grill, and I design speakers for living rooms, not car audio. Much older focal tweeters like titanium and ti-oxyd especially those with a phase plug were very sweet but detailed. When I tune, I prefer to not use filters, instead I use a dbx driverack PA2 and output to 3 amps. I tune each driver in its cabinet, and then I tune with all playing pink noise at listening level and listening position, this enable me to spot problems that arise from the room and the crossover areas. Most of my tuning usually is putting down peaks, it is extremely rare that I have to boost something, most speakers are used on-axis. I also use cables from benchmark media, as I had some bad experiences either with home-made or from brands of cables. Usually my best experience is making nice 2 way speakers with 2 subs. I like to put the low crossover to around 128hz because it is an area where most pieces of furniture or windows are causing problems so it is a frequency I tend to keep low, while around 40hz is a source of pleasure. The high crossover is highly speaker dependent. How do you measure distortion ?
While I enjoy a good silk dome tweeter. Some of my favorite speakers/drivers use/are aluminum tweeters or full range paper drivers. I can't recall what type planer are but those are nice too. Just EQ to taste if you have to. 🤷
All known to me so no need to repeat video, there was a LOT of positive nodding during watch (you're spot on), presented in a great way, the subjective curve is great find thank you, it fits what i have experiencing, suggestion- focus on different tweeters (ribbon, horn, AMT...) to fit them in this story. Perfect length of the video to relay this info, would not mind more info if it includes more drivers...
I would gladly include more tweeter types, however I don't have the data. All I have at my disposal are some knock off chinese AMTs and ribbons, so it would not be a good representation of a driver type. Maybe one day. Thank you for the encouraging words.
I think you failed to mention one important thing. You said location was important, but the angle is also important. Sometimes you don't need to change the location, you just need to change the angle. 👍
The angle will change the top end roll off above 10k or so. Angling a tweeter will not do anything to 3kHz. At those frequencies tweeters are playing omni.
@RAW-CAt Yes, that is my point. I do believe it can alter the lower frequencies as well. It is a very noticeable effect. It's crucial to experiment with the angles.
Once again tons of great info here!! I know you used the Alpine Status, any opinion on if these are a worth while "upgrade" from the previous gen X Series 6.5 components?
I bought some really cheap ALPINE car 1" soft dome weeters. And I cut a hole in the dome over 1/2" diameter, and they sound way better than the original. They are mounted inside the voice coil tube of my 10" bass/med drivers (that also have cutouts). And ran completely open on top of the box, with a 10" woofer in the box.
Thank you for raising this painful topic. In my setup, treble harshness is the last remaining problematic point. Bass could be better, but it's fine. However with treble I cannot get rid of harshness by equalizing to a flat target. My current tune involves a certain (quite significant) treble roll off. And it's a trade off by itself, such rolloff is not my preference, it also degrades sonic quality by itself a little bit. I could test better for distortion, but my measurements so far do not indicate any major problems. And I suspect that this perceived harshness with 'flat' eq could be due to reflections. I'm not sure if this theory is correct, but there are some clues. First, harshness is present in other setups - in a stock car system of my second car, for example. Also, it is apparent to me in binaural demos by pssound (where, obviously, a much higher quality setup is in place, compared to mine). Another hint is that rolling the windows down reduces the said harshness significantly. So far I experimented with different target curves, various stages of treble roll off, different tweeters (the latter resulted in no difference). I'm curious if I'm missing something (probably), or if it is an inherent issue due to reflections. And reflections I cannot really address.
The only thing in all of this that you might be missing is not the equipment, but the other end of the stick - your ears. People have different sensitivity, it might just so happen that your hearing is extremely sensitive in that area, much more sensitive than average. I would recommend visiting an audiologist and doing a hearing test to check that theory.
@@RAW-CAt yes, this is a possibility indeed. Finding the best spot in terms of frequency response, working around car limitations is still a lot of fun.
Hey RAW-CAT, I was really surprised to see how smooth the morel's were - Basically I am a Morel addict and they represent HOME for me being Israelian. Yet I find them usually a very dormant tweeter out of most domes - they do require a lot of power and even so. Maybe, I don't know people do like some harshness to their sound. But as well EQ is dual sided sword - you can definitly make a harsh speaker smoother but you are also taking on the EQ area the phase out of balance - If you are putting the same EQ to the left tweeter and to the right tweeter than you will affect the phase in the same amount for both BUT - if you will EQ them diffrently, it may end up with two tweeters going out of phase in a critical region and that would resolve in a "traveling stage" effect. Just to add this in mind since EQ can do good in some terms but it can bite you right in the @#$ in others.
There is a difference between acoustic and the electrical phase. Acoustically the phase is tracking frequency response so when you fix the FR, you fix the phase at the same time. Even if electrical phase between L and R is different, what matters is the acoustical phase at the listening position. Exactly the same with all pass filters where you "mess up" electrical phase on purpose to fix the acoustical one. IE does not introduce an problems. The "traveling stage" you are describing due to phase changes is because of reflections present at high frequencies, not because of EQ.
@@RAW-CAt Well I can tell that I've fixed just that by cancelling uneven EQ between opossite speakers - though the filters are FIR not IIR - could be that what ever the DSP is doing there is totally different - as for the travelling of the stage due to reflections its more of install, cabin concerns, aiming and so on... Yet if making a video on travelling stage issues is on your road map I would definitly like to see such video from your perspective - as allways LOVE your work!
Glad to see you back Nerijus. I love this kind of content from you. I’ve always wondered, but I’ve never tested this, but what happens if you cross the midranges too low as it pertains to distortion in the upper frequencies of the midranges passband? I know you’ll get increased distortion at the lower frequencies but will that distortion also creep up into the higher frequencies?
Great work 👍👏 Tweeters contribute alot of SQ setups. In my experience sweet sounding Tweeters are from Focal, Hertz. I am using Alpine DP653 and they are harsh and not so much details...Thinking to swap them with Focal...How do you suggest?
Tweeter’s sound harshly because of your source or your current or other disturbances,it’s not the tweeter unless you really have bought junk speakers,junk in junk out
What are your impressions of the Kenwood KFC-XS1703 ? I am going to stick to 2 way. The Kenwood has 2 different tweeters in the pod they would not do this for no reason. It might have one that reaches down a bit further and one further up for the air.
Quick question if you had time... I have like 16 speakers factory. Ive kept some of them still playing in the ceiling and in the middle of the dash to make sure I can hear my navigation. If I am tuning do I need to make sure that all of those factory speakers are off, or should i even use them at all? I have two ceiling speakers and 4 rears, plus the factory sub still hooked up, as well as the center channel.
So what would be your recommendation for the people that don’t have the tools to see what their tweeters are doing but hear that noise what would be a good reference point and Q factor to play around with?
@RAW-CAt Yeah. Thanks, man. Did the same! 😆 Love your vids, easy to understand explanations and great topics. Looking forward to some more vids of the new build!
Just found your channel with this vid and i'm absolutely pleased, but an absolutely newbie in measurement and so on. How could i start cheaply to measure those as a student? What would you recommend ?
Go to the playlists and watch "back to basics" series, as well I have a video "all you need to know about measuring microphones". This one will help as well: ua-cam.com/video/QOQUCCMZFoI/v-deo.htmlsi=qgeZw29s0WU4ByFc
Wow, that was an amazing video! Question, dose a more expansive speaker generally perform better than a regular one ? I mean, with proper tuning and correct EQ.
@ A/ I didn’t say it was all that you discussed. B/ Not every comment is a personal criticism of yourself. C/ You do imply that the ‘quality’ between drivers can be ‘matched’ by simply correcting the FR response and so turn a cheap drive unit into an expensive one. Now that previous comment of mine sounds like I am trying to support expensive drive units but that’s not actually the case - I believe some budget drive units are great and some (perhaps many) expensive drive units are largely ‘smoke and mirrors’ with marketing used to justify the increased price.
@@RAW-CAtNot that I know of. Unfortunately. Where are you located at? I'm currently using his mid bass drivers and hlcds. Was thinking about getting a set of his tweeters just to add a little more sparkle up top. I'm going to ask Mr Stevens if he would consider sending you a set for testing. They're only $100. People love them but I would like your opinion through testing. Perhaps I could send you my set once I get them. Or just have them shipped to you and I pay shipping back to me? I don't know what do you think?
over use of technicals ,,,,,,,reality is that many tweeters are harsh and attenuating them or using equalisation or xover to tame doesnt work well ,,its more to do with the driver brand and model selection ,,,,,not blindly but pick a tweeter that is not harsh and problem gone ,,,goal is faithful reproduction of music vocals etc not the graph and readings so many are obsessed with ,,,,,and harshness is not the main complaint ,,,lack of bass response is a more common complaint by the hifi consumer ,,,,,,most can not even discern harshness ,,,,
Thank you RAW-CAt for this good job. You are one of best...
This was a great explanation. I've wrestled with this on many different systems and my ears seem to have a particular sensitivity around 6Khz. I guess I need to get with the program and buy a good DSP so I can fine tune my system. Thank you!
I sort of think everyone would be sensitive to 6 khz. 😂
This was amazing! I just upgraded the sound in my 2010 Honda Fit and I was at odds with the Focal Auditor RSE-165s that I bought for the front with their own tweeters and crossovers. I'm fortunate though to have also bought a head unit with parametric eq adjustment. I did the -6.0db adjustment and Q of 1 at the 5kHz point, and I noticed a genuine improvement in the "brightness" of these tweeters. This video I believe has saved my setup and I can look forward to enjoying it now more. Thank you!
Well Raw, what a good information have you given us. Thanks!
This was very helpfull in reducing the apparent harshness of my silk dome tweeters mounted in the A pillars. 👍🙌
Excellent video, explains so much and gives me a lot of clues to finetune my car audio. Especially the 2000-5000 range... Will try to get the bass more integrated too
Cone breakup in the midrange speaker was the main cause of harshness in my install. I swapped it for cheaper infinity speakers, and crossed over miss and tweeters further apart so there’s a scoop or recess between 1-2.2kHz. Basically, using the crossover as a slight eq adjustment worked great. I only run off head unit, no sound processor, and only has a standard restricted eq sliders at preset frequencies. Time alignment also helped a lot. After having time alignment, I can’t live without it. All that paired with tweeters on axis right at your ears, gives a super sweet, pleasant, high resolution kind of sound, even from basic speakers. (Doors fully treated too) if anyone’s wondering, the nvx components, second up from their cheapest set, was the culprit (just the woofer). The tweeters from that set are the best I’ve ever tried though, so I trust their tweeters a lot.
You don't need the scoop. Use a midrange that can cross higher or a tweeter than can cross lower without breakup and use a steeper slope.
What a fantastic visual representation of what I've been trying to understand for years. Thank you!
This is a very good video, just long enough to bring the main points across. Very well done sir.
Great information. Definitely gonna need a couple of watches on this one. Thanks
Oh man, I've been waiting for these video, my focal (i see what you did in the video screenshot) tweeters from flax kit were always harsh.
i have the focal sopra 3 and i was worried when i got them that they were going to be fatiguing , but not the case . i think the room treatment you have really helps . I was not disapointed at all ,
Yes technical, but that's what I expect when someone is talking about topics that involve a lot of technical knowledge and adjustments. Ha ha.
This was a great post and you touched on the bigger reasons for these "failures" that most people do not know or understand.
I have been fighting to get the "perfect" tune for months, and I am about to just sell the vehicle. Lol!!! I have a high end DSP and above mid range components that should be performing wonderfully... The only thing I changed about them from unboxing was removing the wired crossover. But now there is better wire attached for "assumed" improved signal and I don't have to worry about it not sounding right from one side to the other because I can't tweak it.
Thanks for your time and effort to better educate people!! There are a lot of misinformed people that need posts like this. 😊
Most component sets come with cheap little neo tweeters that aren't that good, for one. Second, alot of installs are less than steller.
There are a few general rules that will give better results in any car audio system:
1.) mount tweeters close to midrange/midbass driver
2.) equalize pathlengths between listener to left and right front speakers
3.) mount midbass drivers on solid surface
4.) the install counts for more than the drive units
* one of the best sounding systems I designed/installed used super cheap drivers ($11.00 6.5" mid, $10.00 2.75" fullrange both powered by head unit, used MTX 12" subs powered by used Kenwood amp. total cost of around $100. Jeep Liberty my nephew had)
Love the way you relay information
SB Acoustics SB21RDC-C000-4 Ring Dome Tweeter - "Ring radiator tweeters offer superior break-up modes compared to similar dome diaphragm models. This means the upper frequency range tends to be cleaner (lower distortion) and offers more extended response than similar conventional dome tweeters". This is one of my favorite "mid-priced" and affordable tweeters. SB Acoustics is "the shit". lol Thanks for the video.
I just switched to the new Scan Speak Illuminator D3004/660000 tweeters. "Textile" dome diaphragm with its "AirCirc Magnet System". I am beyond impressed..just beautiful high frequency's.
The only systems I have ever considered harsh, they have also all had hard dome tweeters. I have actually never been wrong about if the person has a hard dome tweeter or not, in my years of listening to high end competition systems. The absolute WORST offenders were the mid 1990s MB quart tweeters, people loved those things, but I couldn't get within 10 feet of the car and enjoy the sound coming out of them. They were absolutely brutal, I never did understand why people liked them, I just assumed people got them for free and used them on the competition circuit.
😂😂😂
Awesome explanation
Another great video. Thank you sir.
Until now I always preferred soft fabric tweeters, they usually have good air and low harshness or over sharpness, but I never use speaker grill, and I design speakers for living rooms, not car audio. Much older focal tweeters like titanium and ti-oxyd especially those with a phase plug were very sweet but detailed. When I tune, I prefer to not use filters, instead I use a dbx driverack PA2 and output to 3 amps. I tune each driver in its cabinet, and then I tune with all playing pink noise at listening level and listening position, this enable me to spot problems that arise from the room and the crossover areas. Most of my tuning usually is putting down peaks, it is extremely rare that I have to boost something, most speakers are used on-axis. I also use cables from benchmark media, as I had some bad experiences either with home-made or from brands of cables. Usually my best experience is making nice 2 way speakers with 2 subs. I like to put the low crossover to around 128hz because it is an area where most pieces of furniture or windows are causing problems so it is a frequency I tend to keep low, while around 40hz is a source of pleasure. The high crossover is highly speaker dependent. How do you measure distortion ?
If you make a sweep with rew, it will show you distortion in a separate tab. You can use any mic or interface.
I stoped using tweeters like 15 years ago, i should give them another try, thanks raw-cat
Full range 8"?
@@narmalefull range 18"'s. Lol. Wouldn't that be the purpose of point-source drivers?
@@_FJB_ damn... can we get true full range response from an 18?!
2.5 or 3 inch dayton mids + some car audio 6.5 and a subwoofer, thanks for the comment, we need to push this channel as much as possible, cheers
Silk....dome.....tweeters.....everything else sounds like a tin roof during a hail storm
Ever tried some EQ?
Smoothest tweeters I have heard are metal dome.
@@RAW-CAt swapping out tweeters / speakers without adjusting the EQ, the silks simply sound better.
While I enjoy a good silk dome tweeter. Some of my favorite speakers/drivers use/are aluminum tweeters or full range paper drivers. I can't recall what type planer are but those are nice too. Just EQ to taste if you have to. 🤷
@JoshM7 yeah a little friendly trolling went right over yalls head like woosh
All known to me so no need to repeat video, there was a LOT of positive nodding during watch (you're spot on), presented in a great way, the subjective curve is great find thank you, it fits what i have experiencing, suggestion- focus on different tweeters (ribbon, horn, AMT...) to fit them in this story. Perfect length of the video to relay this info, would not mind more info if it includes more drivers...
I would gladly include more tweeter types, however I don't have the data. All I have at my disposal are some knock off chinese AMTs and ribbons, so it would not be a good representation of a driver type. Maybe one day.
Thank you for the encouraging words.
Another exciting topic! Thank you!
Great talent for teaching. Thankyou
Awesome video 👊🏽
I think you failed to mention one important thing. You said location was important, but the angle is also important.
Sometimes you don't need to change the location, you just need to change the angle. 👍
The angle will change the top end roll off above 10k or so. Angling a tweeter will not do anything to 3kHz. At those frequencies tweeters are playing omni.
@RAW-CAt Yes, that is my point.
I do believe it can alter the lower frequencies as well. It is a very noticeable effect. It's crucial to experiment with the angles.
Once again tons of great info here!! I know you used the Alpine Status, any opinion on if these are a worth while "upgrade" from the previous gen X Series 6.5 components?
OR
Toss the titanium tweeters, for a set of soft dome.
I bought some really cheap ALPINE car 1" soft dome weeters. And I cut a hole in the dome over 1/2" diameter, and they sound way better than the original. They are mounted inside the voice coil tube of my 10" bass/med drivers (that also have cutouts). And ran completely open on top of the box, with a 10" woofer in the box.
Thank you for raising this painful topic. In my setup, treble harshness is the last remaining problematic point. Bass could be better, but it's fine. However with treble I cannot get rid of harshness by equalizing to a flat target. My current tune involves a certain (quite significant) treble roll off. And it's a trade off by itself, such rolloff is not my preference, it also degrades sonic quality by itself a little bit. I could test better for distortion, but my measurements so far do not indicate any major problems. And I suspect that this perceived harshness with 'flat' eq could be due to reflections. I'm not sure if this theory is correct, but there are some clues. First, harshness is present in other setups - in a stock car system of my second car, for example. Also, it is apparent to me in binaural demos by pssound (where, obviously, a much higher quality setup is in place, compared to mine). Another hint is that rolling the windows down reduces the said harshness significantly. So far I experimented with different target curves, various stages of treble roll off, different tweeters (the latter resulted in no difference). I'm curious if I'm missing something (probably), or if it is an inherent issue due to reflections. And reflections I cannot really address.
The only thing in all of this that you might be missing is not the equipment, but the other end of the stick - your ears. People have different sensitivity, it might just so happen that your hearing is extremely sensitive in that area, much more sensitive than average. I would recommend visiting an audiologist and doing a hearing test to check that theory.
@@RAW-CAt yes, this is a possibility indeed. Finding the best spot in terms of frequency response, working around car limitations is still a lot of fun.
You said the sb 29? Which one if so. I see multiple. Thank you! Great video brother!
SB29RDNC-C000-4
@RAW-CAt thank you! Wow. Very affordable! I just bought the down for sound DSP based on your evaluation. I appreciate all the work you do for us
Very good explanation thx for the that 😊
Hey RAW-CAT,
I was really surprised to see how smooth the morel's were - Basically I am a Morel addict and they represent HOME for me being Israelian. Yet I find them usually a very dormant tweeter out of most domes - they do require a lot of power and even so. Maybe, I don't know people do like some harshness to their sound.
But as well EQ is dual sided sword - you can definitly make a harsh speaker smoother but you are also taking on the EQ area the phase out of balance - If you are putting the same EQ to the left tweeter and to the right tweeter than you will affect the phase in the same amount for both BUT - if you will EQ them diffrently, it may end up with two tweeters going out of phase in a critical region and that would resolve in a "traveling stage" effect.
Just to add this in mind since EQ can do good in some terms but it can bite you right in the @#$ in others.
There is a difference between acoustic and the electrical phase. Acoustically the phase is tracking frequency response so when you fix the FR, you fix the phase at the same time. Even if electrical phase between L and R is different, what matters is the acoustical phase at the listening position. Exactly the same with all pass filters where you "mess up" electrical phase on purpose to fix the acoustical one. IE does not introduce an problems. The "traveling stage" you are describing due to phase changes is because of reflections present at high frequencies, not because of EQ.
@@RAW-CAt Well I can tell that I've fixed just that by cancelling uneven EQ between opossite speakers - though the filters are FIR not IIR - could be that what ever the DSP is doing there is totally different - as for the travelling of the stage due to reflections its more of install, cabin concerns, aiming and so on...
Yet if making a video on travelling stage issues is on your road map I would definitly like to see such video from your perspective - as allways LOVE your work!
@@eddiegecht2010 yeah, FIR work in a very different way. What I was talking about previously applies only to IIR.
awesome. thanks
Since I replaced my factory tweeters with on-axis widebands I have not noticed any harshness, loads of attack, but never harsh.
Agreed. On axis wide bands are SO much better. I’m running CDT wide bands. Love them.
Yes, because most quality widebands will have a flat frequency response that will not have any significant peaks in the crucial frequency range.
Thank you❤
i watched this whole video just to realise i need to get my tweeters out the dash
Why do you need to get them out of the dash?
I've had great results with dash mounts. Location and angle are very important.
Glad to see you back Nerijus. I love this kind of content from you. I’ve always wondered, but I’ve never tested this, but what happens if you cross the midranges too low as it pertains to distortion in the upper frequencies of the midranges passband? I know you’ll get increased distortion at the lower frequencies but will that distortion also creep up into the higher frequencies?
It could. There could appear some higher order harmonics in the upper treble range. Definitely something cool to test👍
Great work 👍👏
Tweeters contribute alot of SQ setups.
In my experience sweet sounding Tweeters are from Focal, Hertz. I am using Alpine DP653 and they are harsh and not so much details...Thinking to swap them with Focal...How do you suggest?
The DP tweeters are really bad. Yes, definitely upgrade.
Tweeter’s sound harshly because of your source or your current or other disturbances,it’s not the tweeter unless you really have bought junk speakers,junk in junk out
Hey Fam, is it worth moving from Morel Primo 12 to Compose Ci5 S200FM? will i see a noticeable difference?
It's not a fair comparison. A 12in sub vs a pair of 8s midbass is a huge difference.
What are your impressions of the Kenwood KFC-XS1703 ? I am going to stick to 2 way. The Kenwood has 2 different tweeters in the pod they would not do this for no reason. It might have one that reaches down a bit further and one further up for the air.
Have no experience with them, so cannot comment.
Quick question if you had time... I have like 16 speakers factory. Ive kept some of them still playing in the ceiling and in the middle of the dash to make sure I can hear my navigation. If I am tuning do I need to make sure that all of those factory speakers are off, or should i even use them at all? I have two ceiling speakers and 4 rears, plus the factory sub still hooked up, as well as the center channel.
It depends what you want from a system. A typical SQ system is a 3way front+sub.
quick ? how much power does the one audio take to xmax at 20 hz ?
Just over 1000W.
@@RAW-CAt THX YOUR THE BEST
Paper cone High Mid and a high crossover. Above 4khz. And titanium diaphragms in compression drivers instead of polymer/plastics is my trick.
comfort at over 100dB
So what would be your recommendation for the people that don’t have the tools to see what their tweeters are doing but hear that noise what would be a good reference point and Q factor to play around with?
-5dB at 4kHz Q1
Another great video! Where did you get the graph with the descriptions?
Just googled some random words until I found what I am looking for😂
@RAW-CAt Yeah. Thanks, man. Did the same! 😆 Love your vids, easy to understand explanations and great topics. Looking forward to some more vids of the new build!
Just found your channel with this vid and i'm absolutely pleased, but an absolutely newbie in measurement and so on. How could i start cheaply to measure those as a student? What would you recommend ?
Go to the playlists and watch "back to basics" series, as well I have a video "all you need to know about measuring microphones". This one will help as well:
ua-cam.com/video/QOQUCCMZFoI/v-deo.htmlsi=qgeZw29s0WU4ByFc
@@RAW-CAtthank you 🙏🏻
Wow, that was an amazing video!
Question, dose a more expansive speaker generally perform better than a regular one ? I mean, with proper tuning and correct EQ.
In todays world ruled by marketing price is not an indication of good performance. Unfortunately.
@@RAW-CAtthankfully Eric Stevens goes against the grain!
There are a whole lot of things you cannot fix with an EQ.
In general I agree with what you are saying, but a FR graph is not the only thing that defines sound quality.
FR is not the only thing that I have discussed🤷
@ A/ I didn’t say it was all that you discussed. B/ Not every comment is a personal criticism of yourself. C/ You do imply that the ‘quality’ between drivers can be ‘matched’ by simply correcting the FR response and so turn a cheap drive unit into an expensive one. Now that previous comment of mine sounds like I am trying to support expensive drive units but that’s not actually the case - I believe some budget drive units are great and some (perhaps many) expensive drive units are largely ‘smoke and mirrors’ with marketing used to justify the increased price.
@AudioFlat You certainly implied that he was only using FR response.
Morel. Supremo. Piccolo.
I love my morels
Stevens Audio SA1 if youre looking for a vety budget friendly tweeter that sounds amazing:) Youre welcome
Welcome for what exactly?
@RAW-CAt That was for the guys looking for a fantastic budget tweeter. Not you brother
@RAW-CAt have you played with any of his products? Eric Stevens?
@@850CANE unfortunately I have not. Are there any objective reviews or measurements being done on them?
@@RAW-CAtNot that I know of. Unfortunately. Where are you located at? I'm currently using his mid bass drivers and hlcds. Was thinking about getting a set of his tweeters just to add a little more sparkle up top. I'm going to ask Mr Stevens if he would consider sending you a set for testing. They're only $100. People love them but I would like your opinion through testing. Perhaps I could send you my set once I get them. Or just have them shipped to you and I pay shipping back to me? I don't know what do you think?
I face with female vocal shouting
That is a different frequency region a bit lower in the midrange.
@@RAW-CAtthanks 👍 for the advice
First
Kindergarten. Du hast studiert 😂😂😂... mein bester Freundeskreis haben studiert 😂. niemand von ihnen haben was drauf.Egomonster..die wollen nur sich 😢.
The best remedy to harsh system is to not play metal or hard-rock music :)
Or poorly mastered music in general.
@@RAW-CAt Oh yes that's the big one. People usually don't realize how much bad recordings are out there.
This is a bummer I listen to metal xD modern one, it is mastered quite good actually.
Fact!
over use of technicals ,,,,,,,reality is that many tweeters are harsh and attenuating them or using equalisation or xover to tame doesnt work well ,,its more to do with the driver brand and model selection ,,,,,not blindly but pick a tweeter that is not harsh and problem gone ,,,goal is faithful reproduction of music vocals etc not the graph and readings so many are obsessed with ,,,,,and harshness is not the main complaint ,,,lack of bass response is a more common complaint by the hifi consumer ,,,,,,most can not even discern harshness ,,,,
Are you accusing him of being overly technical?