Looking at the pins that have to be lifted on the board could we just solder to the LANS on the board that the pins flow out of the chip to and cut the traces just before they go to the VIAs to prevent having to lift the pins? maybe making this install way easier then pin lifting for those not comfortable doing that.
@@chrisuland289 The pitch is the same as the pins meaning the space between the lands is even smaller and you’d still risk damaging the pins. Removing solder mask to expose traces is more difficult, permanent, and risky since unmasked traces with wires attached will easily lift. I’ve never had an issue lifting them but I’m tempted to try it a different way to avoid having to restore the 5.6k ohm pull-up resistors (RGB fix from Tian Feng). Next time I’ll try leaving the RGB pins connected and disconnecting the old RGB circuit by removing three resistors on the bottom of the board. R, G, and B will still be tied high through three other resistors on the bottom, which are the originals Tian Feng tells us to restore. I can then tap R, G, and B from the empty pads where I removed those other resistors. There’s a chance that this will diminish my bypass results and introduce the same jailbars. Maybe the traces will couple with something nearby or maybe the original pull-up resistors use unclean power causing the jailbars in the first place. I still want to see if this can be an easier way to install the current 3BP boards which haven’t incorporated Tian Feng’s fix. It’s worth trying because most resistor kits are only E12 values (no 5.6k ohm) and you can’t rely on being able to salvage the originals by moving them to the 3BP. The last time I tried my tweezers sent one across the room, never to be seen again. You can’t do the fix with only two resistors and I didn’t want to mix and match brands/tolerances so I used my own but someone without 5.6k resistors may be forced to combine more common values for something close… like 1k + 4.7k (6 resistors total). It’s a pain. If I see jailbars then I will cut the traces where they diverge from the pull-up resistors and tap R, G, and B from the vias. If I still have jailbars then I will have to consider that it is coming through that 5v pull-up and I’ll have to risk losing one to tie them to a cleaner 5v (straight from a regulator?).
Instead of doing them one at a time, consider doing them one VALUE at a time. Like, do all the 100uF caps, then all the 47uF caps, etc. Start with the most common value and work down. I like to also remove one of the least common values with each set so that I can replace that too without getting it mixed up and without having to do one at a time later. Like, remove all 100uF caps and one of the caps you only have one of. Replace that one first so you don’t mix it up then replace all the 100uF caps. Then remove all the 47uF caps and one of the other remaining values where you might only have one so that you can replace that one next and know all the empty footprints are 47uF. Rinse, repeat, and it won’t be nearly as tedious as doing one cap at a time. I like to mark them all with Sharpie marker before I start so that I can quickly find the remaining ones. Of course, I did it this way and ended up replacing a bunch of caps I ultimately wasn’t even using. Oops! ;)
Glad to see a good video on doing the 3BP on a Model 1 Genesis. Most videos are of the model 2. Thankfully I don't have that bad jailbars on my VA3 Model 1, so I may just do a recap.
¿Usando RGB CSYNC se nota el jailbar? Yo tengo un model 2 que cuando la usaba con un cable RGB generico tenia muchisimo jailbar pero al cambiar el cable por uno apantallado ya no existe jailbar alguno, que yo sepa el jailbar se produce por una mala señal de sincronismo por ruido e interferencuas que pueden venir de los cables, problemas de filtrado en la fuente o placa, etc....
Bypassing the stock amp does improve audio quality. Additionally, you can change the filtering caps in order to move the corner cutoff frequency (like say if you wanted more clear audio than stock gives).
@@chrisw8069 On the TBP board, you would for example replace C18 and C19 with 30pF 0603 C0G/NP0 capacitors. It's especially nice to do for the Genesis model 2 console revisions that use YM3438 ASIC, as it features crystal clear high frequency range.
The answer to that is really opening a can of worms but I’ll try. First, “High Definition Graphics” doesn’t actually distinguish much since most without Genesis HDG are the same “VA6” board revision you see in any Genesis HDG console with the trademark security system (TMSS) boot screen… like Dubesinhower’s HDG VA6 revision you see in this video (top shell with “High Definition Graphics shown in his other video about jailbars). They produced VA6 for a long time before and after the HDG switch and there were even a couple minor changes that didn’t hurt anything, like leaving the EXT port off (VA6.5) and switching to a surface-mount encoder (VA6.8) but the audio circuit stayed the same. The reason people distinguish between HDG and non-HDG is because the very last non-HDG units were suddenly very different (VA7) with inferior audio. Avoiding any Genesis 1 without HDG is way too extreme if you just don’t want a VA7. I’ve seen this go WAY too far with one guy even getting a VA6 HDG to replace his VA6 non-HDG while convincing himself that the audio was better! VA7 is basically just a Genesis 2 chipset in a Genesis 1. As such, the mod is compatible in the same way a Genesis 2 is but the installation is very different from every other Genesis 1. When bypassed with this kit the inferior audio is no longer a concern but purists may still want a one with a discrete FM chip instead of the ASIC found in VA7 and any Genesis 2. People sometimes prefer one or the other for subjective reasons but once bypassed neither is decidedly better than the other in general. Most games were composed with the discrete chip in mind and others were composed with the integrated ASIC version in mind. If you are daunted by the largely-undocumented install process on VA7 or don’t want one for any other reason, Genesis VA7 consoles are easy to spot with the power jack in a different spot. The power jack was moved and mounted to the mainboard mounted so it’s no longer in the corner on VA7. The only reason to avoid the non-HDG model is if you want to find a so-called “non-TMSS” without the Trademark Security System but, even then, you can’t go by HDG alone since the last ones were VA6 with TMSS.
Couldn't you just solder the bypass wires to the 8 pin din? just seems awful replacing that beefy port with a 9pin mini din all janky like that. Solders not very strong, definitely not a strong weld. You think all that heat melted any of the plastic inside it? Great to see you recapped it! Too many people don't even bother with new caps on these type of mods. New cap is always better than a 30 year old cap.
You can but there is more to it. According to the RetroRGB guide for restoring the DIN, you have to break R, G, B, and S outputs from the encoder (usually Sony CXA-1145P). He insists that you to trace from the DIN and cut the pins on the encoder rather than rely on the PIN numbers he provides… which is good because he wants us to cut pin 11 (Sync Out) for Sync which isn’t even connected in any of the consoles I checked. Pin 10 (Sync In) is the one connected to the original DIN8 but it comes straight from the VDP leg we’ve already soldered to. The same instructions never actually tell you to connect Sync nor do they provide the PIN number, perhaps to force us to verify for our particular consoles.
@@theresatwinkleinmybrainnow696 LOL! I guess I should also point out that solder is the only thing holding the original port on too. ;) Still, I share your concern and used desolder braid to attach mine to the top and bottom of the PCB. I also used kapton tape to make a perfectly square area around it with nice solder fillets instead of whatever blob-shape you get when exposing copper through solder mask. Tinning the exposed area with braid removes all the bits of solder mask left by the scratch pen. Now, if you think that’s “jank,” well, you should see my JP Mega Drive I got from Thailand with an RF modulator bodged onto the side (JP consoles don’t normally have RF). On the plus side, gutting the RF modulator gave me a place to mount the mini DIN, otherwise I would’ve had to use the original DIN like you describe with a big hole in the side for no reason.
@@emmettturner9452 I always enjoy reading your comments Emmett Turner. Im glad my "No shit" comment was taken lightly Haha. Id argue that the original port was designed to be held in with solder but the janky port not so much. I just like to see mods that look stock i guess.
@@theresatwinkleinmybrainnow696 No problem. :) Part of the appeal of swapping the RF modulator is that it looks stock so it’s weird to hear that as a complaint but I know what you mean: If at all possible then it should look totally stock next to an unmodded console. That is part of the appeal for these controller-operated region, frequency, and IGR boards. Someone down the line might assume it’s broken if they test composite/RF and there are no outward signs of a mod so I want a bit of a tell in this case. The metal shield of a mini DIN doesn’t hold everything together when soldered upside down so it’s a valid concern for “dead-bug” mini DIN mods. A breakout or modboard like 3BP here should anchor the mounting tabs and pins together and the upside-down mount could potentially be even stronger. Doujindance’s 10P mini DIN for original PC Engine consoles surrounds the mini DIN for an even more secure connection. That said, I think most people are doing it wrong by trying to melt a lump of solder and shoving them together. It’s best to tin both separately and remove as much solder as you can so that they sit flush, then flux and position the mini DIN. Only solder around the edges while fully flat but dwell at each edge long enough that the tin underneath will reflow. It does kinda bug me that the cases are mislabeled and you can’t align the arrow on the cable with the top. If my JP Mega Drive were not already drilled by some gray market Thai importer I totally would’ve done it the way you describe for the same reasons but all the Genesis consoles are getting the mini DIN treatment too since the RF modulator will no longer function anyway.
Looking at the pins that have to be lifted on the board could we just solder to the LANS on the board that the pins flow out of the chip to and cut the traces just before they go to the VIAs to prevent having to lift the pins? maybe making this install way easier then pin lifting for those not comfortable doing that.
Yes, and some do, but that is more destructive. Less destructive than a broken pin, of course, so it all depends. It’s potentially harder for those using coaxial cable since you have less room between pins (they can spread when lifted). The Tianfeng fix has made me reconsider lifting but even when leaving them down I remove/rebuild the factory 5.6k pull-up. I assume dirty 5v for the pull-up could contribute to jailbars. Of course, I also have to remove more components to disconnect the rest of the RGB circuit but if you are willing to cut you have a lot more options.
I've been planning on installing this in my own model 1 system, but having no guide was a little annoying. I eventually figured out where everything needed to go, but it's much nicer to have all the info in one place when I finally get around to doing the install. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for this video, I've been wondering how to get amplified audio to the mini din 9, could only find people talking about how quiet the sound was because it was tapping pre-amp spots
To remove the RF modulator I used my desoldering gun on the three pins then braid on the rest with my knife tip and a metal spudger that I would wedge underneath as the RF module came out. For mounting the miniDIN I tin and then remove the solder with braid so that there is a thin, flat layer and then add solder to the sides. The braid also helps remove more of the solder mask that might remain.
@@dubesinhower Yes. I actually removed mine to solder there and then put it back so I’d have dual outputs. As a compromise for some Model 2 installs the 3BPv2 is no longer offset to fit flat beside the Model 1’s DIN8 but you can still raise the 3BP and solder while elevated. You know: Leave a gap as if there is another board underneath. No need to remove DIN. :) I’m tempted to make a simple PCB that elevates the 3BPv2, breaks out stereo, and rearranges RGBS for Extron MHR coaxial cable but any 9P miniDIN breakout board should work just as well for elevating. …but you don’t need any of that to just float the PCB on the tips of the miniDIN pins and solder. It doesn’t have to be flat but the lower you can get on the DIN8 side the better since those are the pins that could have trouble reaching through and solder may not flow down. You can get the 3BPv2 flatter if you bevel the bottom PCB edge where it touches the DIN. You can also notch the DIN but if you remove too much plastic and mount the board lower it will interfere with DIN5/8 cables. If you restore the DIN, the RetroRGB bypass guide tells us to cut the RGB and sync pins from the encoder. The pin number he gives for disconnecting Sync is incorrect for the consoles I have looked at. He says to cut pin 11 (Sync Out) but that pin isn’t connected on the consoles I’ve checked. Instead, Sync branches from pin 10 (Sync In) to the DIN. I would not lift the sync pin at the VDP because it also branches through a resistor to digital 5v and the 3BP does not replicate this. Perhaps it is different on other consoles and this is why he said to trace the RGBS pins yourself before cutting anything.
I'm a little embarrassed to ask...but why is this called the triple bypass? To me it looks as if the only thing being bypassed the the audio. Unless I'm missing something.
The three bypasses are: 1) The built-in Genesis RGB amp 2) The built-in audio circuitry and 3) The Model 1 DIN connector The Triple Bypass board has a high quality RGB amp, better audio circuitry, and it connects to a Genesis 2 DIN connector, which is more popular with aftermarket cable manufacturers
@1:12 Interesting you had rivets attaching the heatsink, mine was screwed on... mine's a VA3 though. Wonder if they're standardized per revision? Excellent job getting the RF modulator off, those ground tabs are a pain @7:17 You showed 3 capacitors, but I only saw you use 2, was the last one just extra?
@@dubesinhower Thanks for putting this together! One last thing, @8:38 the "via near pin #54", I presume this is a connection to digital ground (pin #97)?
Happened to me today too, but I still got it working. Used a dremel to grind down the epoxy of the chip to gain access to the trace that the leg used to be connected to
I’m just looking into mods for my genesis 1. Are you aware of any additional mods that add an HDMI output on the system itself. Not an external HDMI converter.
@@dubesinhower bummer. Well this might be my new goal to make happen. Thanks for the prompt response. Most common content creators don’t even respond I’ve found. You just got another subscriber.
@Dubesinhower did the solder on the flat underside of the DIN9 and the flat scratched-off area of the PCB weld together, or do you think it mostly welded on the outsides? I was just thinking, another option would be to draw a square around the DIN9 footprint and scratch off the PCB around that square, then flux and weld it on the outsides only. This would make an L-shaped joint holding it to the PCB all the way around. Similar to how metal plates are welded together.
Yes, it is connected to ground as a bypass cap for digital 5v. There is another bypass cap on the bottom and I wonder if moving/removing that one can make a difference/improvement. The one beside the RGB pins is a bypass cap for analog 5v. Analog and digital 5v come from different regulators.
This video makes me feel very lucky that my VA3 Model 1 is such a pristine example that I never plan to mod it beyond recapping it for my own peace of mind. I think it maybe has one bodge wire on the entire board and so little noticeable interference that I am planning on leaving the composite circuit intact. I feel like I got even luckier with my Neo Geo AES: low serial in the 9000s, zero bodges, and oddly for its vintage, no daughterboard. The guy I bought it from did a simple RGB bypass that seems like it was competently done with the correct components although I may have it looked at by a professional just to make sure
@@dubesinhower cool because i;ve been meaning to do this mod but i really want to keep the headphone jack working if possible while replacing the old 8 pin din
The typical way to install on a JP MD1 is to disconnect RGB from the encoder and stereo from the headphones then connect RGB and stereo from the bypass. It will output the same line level audio you’d get with stereo MD2 cables so you will lose volume control.
@Dubesinhower So I have a VA2 model 1 and I can't do the Pin 54 Cap because there's no mask or via that I can tell that is comparable to what you did in that area. Not sure what to do.
Hey @Dubesinhower, first of all good video. I wanted to know if you knew about the pull-up resistors that you have to install between 5V and each RGB line (usually on the 3BP itself). You'll see if you need to by going in the 240p test suite, color gradient test pattern. If there's no difference between levels 5 and 7, you really should install these.
Yes I’ve heard about this. My console had all the colors in the gradient, so I didn’t add the pull-ups. I think someone (maybe tianfeng?) mentioned there was a version of the 3bp in the works that contained pads for adding these pull-ups. Thanks for reaching out!
@@dubesinhower Might as well mention that the 315-5313 I just worked on had a completely different Vdd pin than Bob's on the side between 33-64 even though it's the same chip number. Multimeter saved an error, and it's undocumented on console5. Sega and their revisions...
@@Prof_gLX Pretty sure one is intended as a bypass cap for analog 5v and the other is intended for digital 5v. Are you sure you didn’t connect it to another analog 5v on that side? Also, I’ve seen 315-5313 and 315-5313A. Was yours the “A” variant?
@@Prof_gLX Another thing to note is that the RetroRGB bypass guide for connecting the model 1 DIN has you cutting pin 11 on the CXA-1145P when it is pin 10 on every unit I checked. Yes, that is the input pin for the encoder, not the output, but that’s the one going to the DIN.
Is it just grounded via the new Din soldered to the ground plain? I separately grounded kind but I'm getting a faint buzz in the audio, especially on white screens like the Konami logo.
Yes, it grounds through the DIN to the ground plane but there is a tiny dedicated ground pad if you install it some other way. Buzzing audio on white screens usually means you have unshielded cables but it could be something else. If it only affects one channel then you might have PSG connected to the cartridge or expansion audio. Also, the top RF/EMI shield can short out pins on the back of the miniDIN if you don’t bend or cut.
I have a follow up question, my japanese megadrive doesnt have a RF unit so where would i need to place the replacement 9 pin din? because i was thinknig about removing the original model 1 8 pin din?
The standard install for a JP console is to use the original DIN for RGBS and the headphone jack for line level stereo. You lose the volume slider function, of course. See the Triple Bypass video from Kate’s Hardware if you want to see an example. The Model 1 RGB bypass instructions on RetroRGB cover the DIN restoration part and the M1 Mini Mega Amp instructions from Firebrand X cover the headphone jack part… but there are some caveats to note. First, I think the guide is wrong on RetroRGB since none of the console DIN8 ports I checked get Sync from pin 11 (Sync Out) of the Sony CXA-1145P encoder. Instead, they get it straight from the VDP, just like the encoder does at Pin 10. There is a resistor to digital 5v along the way which isn’t replicated on the bypass board so I suggest getting sync from pin 10 of the of the encoder. I’m not sure if pin 10 should also be cut/disconnected but it makes more sense than pin 11. The guide does say to trace back from the DIN yourself and not to rely his example/numbers so it’s possible there are differences. Next, the M1 Mini Mega Amp guide is written from the perspective of an audio bypass board with dedicated outputs but the only audio outputs on 3BP are for the mini DIN. The holes on 3BPv2 are labeled for connecting stereo wires (SL/SR). Just run those wires to the headphone jack after disconnecting it as Firebrand X suggests. Alternatively you could drill holes or mount the 9P mini DIN where the DIN8 is supposed to be. I have seen people do this but my only JP MD1 was already modded with a PAL RF modulator so I reused the hole they drilled for that. My concern is that there is less to mount to, especially on e you isolate all those old DIN connections with tape. I guess you could sever a lot of those connections and turn them all into ground but perhaps that’s more destructive than it needs to be. I did install one in a JP console but it had already been RF-modded giving me a perfect place for the miniDIN (hole they drilled on the left side).
Surface mount capacitors are usually non-polarized, meaning they can be installed either way. Capacitors that are polarized will have a marking on them indicating plus or minus
is it worth it though? I mean RGB amp for sure but is audio worth tampering with? Does it sound better? I really had no issues in regards with audio, especially after full recap it sounds pretty great but sadly I did not find any comparison on model 1, all the videos on yt are just with model 2 or late model 1 with model 2 like board
The triple bypass's audio is based around the va3 model 1 boards audio amp/mix. Each board of the model 1 has a slight difference mix but they're almost all the same. Only one that's known to be shit is the infamous va7 board which is just a model 2 in a model 1 shell. So imo you don't really need to do an audio bypass on any model 1 board
If you want more modding videos, check out my modding playlist! ua-cam.com/video/Na9uBpFdZAA/v-deo.html
Looking at the pins that have to be lifted on the board could we just solder to the LANS on the board that the pins flow out of the chip to and cut the traces just before they go to the VIAs to prevent having to lift the pins? maybe making this install way easier then pin lifting for those not comfortable doing that.
@@chrisuland289 The pitch is the same as the pins meaning the space between the lands is even smaller and you’d still risk damaging the pins. Removing solder mask to expose traces is more difficult, permanent, and risky since unmasked traces with wires attached will easily lift.
I’ve never had an issue lifting them but I’m tempted to try it a different way to avoid having to restore the 5.6k ohm pull-up resistors (RGB fix from Tian Feng). Next time I’ll try leaving the RGB pins connected and disconnecting the old RGB circuit by removing three resistors on the bottom of the board. R, G, and B will still be tied high through three other resistors on the bottom, which are the originals Tian Feng tells us to restore. I can then tap R, G, and B from the empty pads where I removed those other resistors.
There’s a chance that this will diminish my bypass results and introduce the same jailbars. Maybe the traces will couple with something nearby or maybe the original pull-up resistors use unclean power causing the jailbars in the first place. I still want to see if this can be an easier way to install the current 3BP boards which haven’t incorporated Tian Feng’s fix.
It’s worth trying because most resistor kits are only E12 values (no 5.6k ohm) and you can’t rely on being able to salvage the originals by moving them to the 3BP. The last time I tried my tweezers sent one across the room, never to be seen again. You can’t do the fix with only two resistors and I didn’t want to mix and match brands/tolerances so I used my own but someone without 5.6k resistors may be forced to combine more common values for something close… like 1k + 4.7k (6 resistors total). It’s a pain.
If I see jailbars then I will cut the traces where they diverge from the pull-up resistors and tap R, G, and B from the vias. If I still have jailbars then I will have to consider that it is coming through that 5v pull-up and I’ll have to risk losing one to tie them to a cleaner 5v (straight from a regulator?).
I did a model 1 3BP for a friend but was frustrated by there being VERY little info out there for a model 1. Glad to see you changing that. Thanks! :)
I was really surprised because it isn’t that much different from the Model 2!
Hi, I need mi Sega Genesis tripe bypass done. I will, ship my system and pay for the mod. Please help, any one! Thx
You are a good friend. What's cooler is you have a bud who is into this. Everyone I know has zero.
Instead of doing them one at a time, consider doing them one VALUE at a time. Like, do all the 100uF caps, then all the 47uF caps, etc. Start with the most common value and work down. I like to also remove one of the least common values with each set so that I can replace that too without getting it mixed up and without having to do one at a time later. Like, remove all 100uF caps and one of the caps you only have one of. Replace that one first so you don’t mix it up then replace all the 100uF caps. Then remove all the 47uF caps and one of the other remaining values where you might only have one so that you can replace that one next and know all the empty footprints are 47uF. Rinse, repeat, and it won’t be nearly as tedious as doing one cap at a time. I like to mark them all with Sharpie marker before I start so that I can quickly find the remaining ones.
Of course, I did it this way and ended up replacing a bunch of caps I ultimately wasn’t even using. Oops! ;)
Glad to see a good video on doing the 3BP on a Model 1 Genesis. Most videos are of the model 2. Thankfully I don't have that bad jailbars on my VA3 Model 1, so I may just do a recap.
¿Usando RGB CSYNC se nota el jailbar? Yo tengo un model 2 que cuando la usaba con un cable RGB generico tenia muchisimo jailbar pero al cambiar el cable por uno apantallado ya no existe jailbar alguno, que yo sepa el jailbar se produce por una mala señal de sincronismo por ruido e interferencuas que pueden venir de los cables, problemas de filtrado en la fuente o placa, etc....
Bypassing the stock amp does improve audio quality. Additionally, you can change the filtering caps in order to move the corner cutoff frequency (like say if you wanted more clear audio than stock gives).
How would one go about this?
@@chrisw8069 On the TBP board, you would for example replace C18 and C19 with 30pF 0603 C0G/NP0 capacitors. It's especially nice to do for the Genesis model 2 console revisions that use YM3438 ASIC, as it features crystal clear high frequency range.
@RedArremer I am trying to find model 2 right now then.
would this work for the other model 1 version the one without the high definition symbol?
Yes it will!
@@dubesinhower any differences i gotta keep mind of? I've never modded a console before so i'd like to grab as much info as possible
The answer to that is really opening a can of worms but I’ll try.
First, “High Definition Graphics” doesn’t actually distinguish much since most without Genesis HDG are the same “VA6” board revision you see in any Genesis HDG console with the trademark security system (TMSS) boot screen… like Dubesinhower’s HDG VA6 revision you see in this video (top shell with “High Definition Graphics shown in his other video about jailbars). They produced VA6 for a long time before and after the HDG switch and there were even a couple minor changes that didn’t hurt anything, like leaving the EXT port off (VA6.5) and switching to a surface-mount encoder (VA6.8) but the audio circuit stayed the same. The reason people distinguish between HDG and non-HDG is because the very last non-HDG units were suddenly very different (VA7) with inferior audio.
Avoiding any Genesis 1 without HDG is way too extreme if you just don’t want a VA7. I’ve seen this go WAY too far with one guy even getting a VA6 HDG to replace his VA6 non-HDG while convincing himself that the audio was better! VA7 is basically just a Genesis 2 chipset in a Genesis 1. As such, the mod is compatible in the same way a Genesis 2 is but the installation is very different from every other Genesis 1. When bypassed with this kit the inferior audio is no longer a concern but purists may still want a one with a discrete FM chip instead of the ASIC found in VA7 and any Genesis 2. People sometimes prefer one or the other for subjective reasons but once bypassed neither is decidedly better than the other in general. Most games were composed with the discrete chip in mind and others were composed with the integrated ASIC version in mind.
If you are daunted by the largely-undocumented install process on VA7 or don’t want one for any other reason, Genesis VA7 consoles are easy to spot with the power jack in a different spot. The power jack was moved and mounted to the mainboard mounted so it’s no longer in the corner on VA7. The only reason to avoid the non-HDG model is if you want to find a so-called “non-TMSS” without the Trademark Security System but, even then, you can’t go by HDG alone since the last ones were VA6 with TMSS.
Couldn't you just solder the bypass wires to the 8 pin din? just seems awful replacing that beefy port with a 9pin mini din all janky like that. Solders not very strong, definitely not a strong weld. You think all that heat melted any of the plastic inside it? Great to see you recapped it! Too many people don't even bother with new caps on these type of mods. New cap is always better than a 30 year old cap.
You can but there is more to it. According to the RetroRGB guide for restoring the DIN, you have to break R, G, B, and S outputs from the encoder (usually Sony CXA-1145P). He insists that you to trace from the DIN and cut the pins on the encoder rather than rely on the PIN numbers he provides… which is good because he wants us to cut pin 11 (Sync Out) for Sync which isn’t even connected in any of the consoles I checked. Pin 10 (Sync In) is the one connected to the original DIN8 but it comes straight from the VDP leg we’ve already soldered to.
The same instructions never actually tell you to connect Sync nor do they provide the PIN number, perhaps to force us to verify for our particular consoles.
@@emmettturner9452 no shit
@@theresatwinkleinmybrainnow696 LOL! I guess I should also point out that solder is the only thing holding the original port on too. ;) Still, I share your concern and used desolder braid to attach mine to the top and bottom of the PCB. I also used kapton tape to make a perfectly square area around it with nice solder fillets instead of whatever blob-shape you get when exposing copper through solder mask. Tinning the exposed area with braid removes all the bits of solder mask left by the scratch pen.
Now, if you think that’s “jank,” well, you should see my JP Mega Drive I got from Thailand with an RF modulator bodged onto the side (JP consoles don’t normally have RF). On the plus side, gutting the RF modulator gave me a place to mount the mini DIN, otherwise I would’ve had to use the original DIN like you describe with a big hole in the side for no reason.
@@emmettturner9452 I always enjoy reading your comments Emmett Turner. Im glad my "No shit" comment was taken lightly Haha. Id argue that the original port was designed to be held in with solder but the janky port not so much. I just like to see mods that look stock i guess.
@@theresatwinkleinmybrainnow696 No problem. :)
Part of the appeal of swapping the RF modulator is that it looks stock so it’s weird to hear that as a complaint but I know what you mean:
If at all possible then it should look totally stock next to an unmodded console. That is part of the appeal for these controller-operated region, frequency, and IGR boards. Someone down the line might assume it’s broken if they test composite/RF and there are no outward signs of a mod so I want a bit of a tell in this case.
The metal shield of a mini DIN doesn’t hold everything together when soldered upside down so it’s a valid concern for “dead-bug” mini DIN mods. A breakout or modboard like 3BP here should anchor the mounting tabs and pins together and the upside-down mount could potentially be even stronger. Doujindance’s 10P mini DIN for original PC Engine consoles surrounds the mini DIN for an even more secure connection.
That said, I think most people are doing it wrong by trying to melt a lump of solder and shoving them together. It’s best to tin both separately and remove as much solder as you can so that they sit flush, then flux and position the mini DIN. Only solder around the edges while fully flat but dwell at each edge long enough that the tin underneath will reflow.
It does kinda bug me that the cases are mislabeled and you can’t align the arrow on the cable with the top.
If my JP Mega Drive were not already drilled by some gray market Thai importer I totally would’ve done it the way you describe for the same reasons but all the Genesis consoles are getting the mini DIN treatment too since the RF modulator will no longer function anyway.
for people who want to use a scratch pen or glass fiber pen use eye protection please
Looking at the pins that have to be lifted on the board could we just solder to the LANS on the board that the pins flow out of the chip to and cut the traces just before they go to the VIAs to prevent having to lift the pins? maybe making this install way easier then pin lifting for those not comfortable doing that.
Yes, and some do, but that is more destructive. Less destructive than a broken pin, of course, so it all depends. It’s potentially harder for those using coaxial cable since you have less room between pins (they can spread when lifted).
The Tianfeng fix has made me reconsider lifting but even when leaving them down I remove/rebuild the factory 5.6k pull-up. I assume dirty 5v for the pull-up could contribute to jailbars. Of course, I also have to remove more components to disconnect the rest of the RGB circuit but if you are willing to cut you have a lot more options.
I've been planning on installing this in my own model 1 system, but having no guide was a little annoying. I eventually figured out where everything needed to go, but it's much nicer to have all the info in one place when I finally get around to doing the install. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
Indeed! I also had to get the audio instructions from Firebrand X’s M1 Mini Mega Line Amp pages. Now, we have a reference video. Thanks so much!
Stupid question: For the surface mount caps... one end goes on the designated pin, and the other end goes on a ground via, right?
Thanks for this video, I've been wondering how to get amplified audio to the mini din 9, could only find people talking about how quiet the sound was because it was tapping pre-amp spots
THANK YOU!!! ive been stuck on this mod for months
Same here!!
I've been looking for a video on modding a Genesis model 1 with a Triple Bypass for months!!!!
Thanks!
Hi I have install this bypass board. The screen output is no problem but the sound is big buzzing noise. Do you have any idea about this problem?
I dont understand the lifting of the pins for RGB. You can just remove the resistors on the other side of the PCB. You don't need to lift any pins.
helllo, 8 minutes in you add a cap near the VDP chip, where did you get those caps from? cheers
Anyone know where I can get a guide for a model 1 VA7?
Holy shit, almost $3000 in camera equipment and it looks like it was shot on a phone! Lol.
Awesome job men, excellent tutorial. Tomorow I’ll try to start make this mod. I apreciate it
Hi after install bypass mod. The 3.5mm jack still can use?
Anyone know where I can get a guide for a model 1 VA4?
does it improve or remove the headphone jack fonctionality to do this mod
To remove the RF modulator I used my desoldering gun on the three pins then braid on the rest with my knife tip and a metal spudger that I would wedge underneath as the RF module came out.
For mounting the miniDIN I tin and then remove the solder with braid so that there is a thin, flat layer and then add solder to the sides. The braid also helps remove more of the solder mask that might remain.
Yes, and if you are going to remove the model 1 din, do that first so you can solder on 3 sides on the model 2 din
@@dubesinhower Yes. I actually removed mine to solder there and then put it back so I’d have dual outputs.
As a compromise for some Model 2 installs the 3BPv2 is no longer offset to fit flat beside the Model 1’s DIN8 but you can still raise the 3BP and solder while elevated. You know:
Leave a gap as if there is another board underneath. No need to remove DIN. :)
I’m tempted to make a simple PCB that elevates the 3BPv2, breaks out stereo, and rearranges RGBS for Extron MHR coaxial cable but any 9P miniDIN breakout board should work just as well for elevating.
…but you don’t need any of that to just float the PCB on the tips of the miniDIN pins and solder. It doesn’t have to be flat but the lower you can get on the DIN8 side the better since those are the pins that could have trouble reaching through and solder may not flow down. You can get the 3BPv2 flatter if you bevel the bottom PCB edge where it touches the DIN. You can also notch the DIN but if you remove too much plastic and mount the board lower it will interfere with DIN5/8 cables.
If you restore the DIN, the RetroRGB bypass guide tells us to cut the RGB and sync pins from the encoder. The pin number he gives for disconnecting Sync is incorrect for the consoles I have looked at. He says to cut pin 11 (Sync Out) but that pin isn’t connected on the consoles I’ve checked. Instead, Sync branches from pin 10 (Sync In) to the DIN. I would not lift the sync pin at the VDP because it also branches through a resistor to digital 5v and the 3BP does not replicate this.
Perhaps it is different on other consoles and this is why he said to trace the RGBS pins yourself before cutting anything.
Gracias por el video! El mejor video de todo internet para instalar el triple bypass!
I'm a little embarrassed to ask...but why is this called the triple bypass? To me it looks as if the only thing being bypassed the the audio. Unless I'm missing something.
The three bypasses are:
1) The built-in Genesis RGB amp
2) The built-in audio circuitry
and
3) The Model 1 DIN connector
The Triple Bypass board has a high quality RGB amp, better audio circuitry, and it connects to a Genesis 2 DIN connector, which is more popular with aftermarket cable manufacturers
@@dubesinhower I see. Thanks.
@1:12 Interesting you had rivets attaching the heatsink, mine was screwed on... mine's a VA3 though. Wonder if they're standardized per revision?
Excellent job getting the RF modulator off, those ground tabs are a pain
@7:17 You showed 3 capacitors, but I only saw you use 2, was the last one just extra?
I always buy extra capacitors in case I lose them.
Thanks for watching!
@@dubesinhower Thanks for putting this together! One last thing, @8:38 the "via near pin #54", I presume this is a connection to digital ground (pin #97)?
Broke one of the RGB pins on mine after bridging the solder on them about 20 times. It's beyond me how anyone manages to pull this mod off.
Happened to me today too, but I still got it working. Used a dremel to grind down the epoxy of the chip to gain access to the trace that the leg used to be connected to
I’m just looking into mods for my genesis 1. Are you aware of any additional mods that add an HDMI output on the system itself. Not an external HDMI converter.
Not currently unfortunately
@@dubesinhower bummer. Well this might be my new goal to make happen. Thanks for the prompt response. Most common content creators don’t even respond I’ve found. You just got another subscriber.
Yes, I think Genesis and SNES deserve HDMI mods!
wow that was a lot of work
@Dubesinhower did the solder on the flat underside of the DIN9 and the flat scratched-off area of the PCB weld together, or do you think it mostly welded on the outsides? I was just thinking, another option would be to draw a square around the DIN9 footprint and scratch off the PCB around that square, then flux and weld it on the outsides only. This would make an L-shaped joint holding it to the PCB all the way around. Similar to how metal plates are welded together.
Does anyone know the spec of the added capacitor?
The link on retrorgb and in the video notes doesn’t show a product.
There’s a link in the description: www.arrow.com/en/products/krm31kr71h475kh01l/murata-manufacturing
50v 4.7uF ceramic X7R 10% tolerance
Hi! Can you tell if my VDP TA-06 9245 20173065C will benefit from the Sub-Carrier pin lift only?
What am I connecting pin 54 vvd to as my visas are in a different place ? Is it just a ground ?
i'm not really sure, and Genesis is not my expertise, however we have several people who may be able to help out in my discord
Yes, it is connected to ground as a bypass cap for digital 5v. There is another bypass cap on the bottom and I wonder if moving/removing that one can make a difference/improvement. The one beside the RGB pins is a bypass cap for analog 5v. Analog and digital 5v come from different regulators.
This video makes me feel very lucky that my VA3 Model 1 is such a pristine example that I never plan to mod it beyond recapping it for my own peace of mind. I think it maybe has one bodge wire on the entire board and so little noticeable interference that I am planning on leaving the composite circuit intact.
I feel like I got even luckier with my Neo Geo AES: low serial in the 9000s, zero bodges, and oddly for its vintage, no daughterboard. The guy I bought it from did a simple RGB bypass that seems like it was competently done with the correct components although I may have it looked at by a professional just to make sure
I have a question, i have an older japanese megadrive model 1but if i do the mod would i lose the functionality of the headphone jack?
I believe so, but I’m not 100% sure. I think you can rewire the headphones to come from the 3BP board
@@dubesinhower cool because i;ve been meaning to do this mod but i really want to keep the headphone jack working if possible while replacing the old 8 pin din
The typical way to install on a JP MD1 is to disconnect RGB from the encoder and stereo from the headphones then connect RGB and stereo from the bypass. It will output the same line level audio you’d get with stereo MD2 cables so you will lose volume control.
@Dubesinhower So I have a VA2 model 1 and I can't do the Pin 54 Cap because there's no mask or via that I can tell that is comparable to what you did in that area. Not sure what to do.
Lots o’ scratchin
Awesome video, thank you! Do you know if it’s possible to do the triple bypass mod along side the s-video mod? Not sure if that will cause any issues.
Hey @Dubesinhower, first of all good video. I wanted to know if you knew about the pull-up resistors that you have to install between 5V and each RGB line (usually on the 3BP itself). You'll see if you need to by going in the 240p test suite, color gradient test pattern. If there's no difference between levels 5 and 7, you really should install these.
Yes I’ve heard about this. My console had all the colors in the gradient, so I didn’t add the pull-ups. I think someone (maybe tianfeng?) mentioned there was a version of the 3bp in the works that contained pads for adding these pull-ups.
Thanks for reaching out!
@@dubesinhower Might as well mention that the 315-5313 I just worked on had a completely different Vdd pin than Bob's on the side between 33-64 even though it's the same chip number. Multimeter saved an error, and it's undocumented on console5. Sega and their revisions...
@@Prof_gLX Pretty sure one is intended as a bypass cap for analog 5v and the other is intended for digital 5v. Are you sure you didn’t connect it to another analog 5v on that side? Also, I’ve seen 315-5313 and 315-5313A. Was yours the “A” variant?
@@Prof_gLX Another thing to note is that the RetroRGB bypass guide for connecting the model 1 DIN has you cutting pin 11 on the CXA-1145P when it is pin 10 on every unit I checked. Yes, that is the input pin for the encoder, not the output, but that’s the one going to the DIN.
Is there any reason you couldnt leave the rgb pins intact and use the empty pads from the model connector to solder to?
why recap?
Is it just grounded via the new Din soldered to the ground plain? I separately grounded kind but I'm getting a faint buzz in the audio, especially on white screens like the Konami logo.
Yes, it grounds through the DIN to the ground plane but there is a tiny dedicated ground pad if you install it some other way. Buzzing audio on white screens usually means you have unshielded cables but it could be something else. If it only affects one channel then you might have PSG connected to the cartridge or expansion audio. Also, the top RF/EMI shield can short out pins on the back of the miniDIN if you don’t bend or cut.
I have a follow up question, my japanese megadrive doesnt have a RF unit so where would i need to place the replacement 9 pin din? because i was thinknig about removing the original model 1 8 pin din?
The standard install for a JP console is to use the original DIN for RGBS and the headphone jack for line level stereo. You lose the volume slider function, of course. See the Triple Bypass video from Kate’s Hardware if you want to see an example. The Model 1 RGB bypass instructions on RetroRGB cover the DIN restoration part and the M1 Mini Mega Amp instructions from Firebrand X cover the headphone jack part… but there are some caveats to note.
First, I think the guide is wrong on RetroRGB since none of the console DIN8 ports I checked get Sync from pin 11 (Sync Out) of the Sony CXA-1145P encoder. Instead, they get it straight from the VDP, just like the encoder does at Pin 10. There is a resistor to digital 5v along the way which isn’t replicated on the bypass board so I suggest getting sync from pin 10 of the of the encoder. I’m not sure if pin 10 should also be cut/disconnected but it makes more sense than pin 11.
The guide does say to trace back from the DIN yourself and not to rely his example/numbers so it’s possible there are differences.
Next, the M1 Mini Mega Amp guide is written from the perspective of an audio bypass board with dedicated outputs but the only audio outputs on 3BP are for the mini DIN. The holes on 3BPv2 are labeled for connecting stereo wires (SL/SR). Just run those wires to the headphone jack after disconnecting it as Firebrand X suggests.
Alternatively you could drill holes or mount the 9P mini DIN where the DIN8 is supposed to be. I have seen people do this but my only JP MD1 was already modded with a PAL RF modulator so I reused the hole they drilled for that. My concern is that there is less to mount to, especially on e you isolate all those old DIN connections with tape. I guess you could sever a lot of those connections and turn them all into ground but perhaps that’s more destructive than it needs to be.
I did install one in a JP console but it had already been RF-modded giving me a perfect place for the miniDIN (hole they drilled on the left side).
Great video!! What cable are you using with the new 9 pin mini-din?
HD Retrovision Genesis 2 component cables!
Stupid question: For the surface mount caps... one end goes on the designated pin, and the other end goes on a ground via, right?
Surface mount capacitors are usually non-polarized, meaning they can be installed either way. Capacitors that are polarized will have a marking on them indicating plus or minus
@@dubesinhower Thanks :)
wow 😄🇧🇷
is it worth it though? I mean RGB amp for sure but is audio worth tampering with? Does it sound better? I really had no issues in regards with audio, especially after full recap it sounds pretty great but sadly I did not find any comparison on model 1, all the videos on yt are just with model 2 or late model 1 with model 2 like board
The triple bypass's audio is based around the va3 model 1 boards audio amp/mix. Each board of the model 1 has a slight difference mix but they're almost all the same. Only one that's known to be shit is the infamous va7 board which is just a model 2 in a model 1 shell. So imo you don't really need to do an audio bypass on any model 1 board
great, I'll just put RGB AMP alone then, it will be much less work :D