2004 to 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8 ignition module replacement
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- get your module here: amzn.to/2Z4kQAP
common issue of no ignition coil firing, random stalling and no start concerns for the pontiac grand prix 3.8 v8 and other models using this engine design
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This was perfect! I did this with my 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix and it now purrs like a happy kitten. 😊
These must be very common, just did my second one in under 5 years. Fun fact, if you don't have the 5.5mm socket (I don't have one in my socket set), a 7/32" will do the job to take the coils off, then a 7mm for the wiring harness. I'm not a mechanic and this is a pretty easy job.
Thanks! I had the same problem, top coil connectors. 2008 GP V6, 171,000 miles
Heat kills the modules. Mounting surface should be wire brushed, cleaned and heat sink or thermal grease applied to the module before reassembly.
Is this a must do? It's weird because I see some people saying you must add heat sink compound or dielectric grease but the instructions on the icm dont say anything about grease.
@@Blendswell that's because they want you to keep buying them
I just change one and greased the mount and it started smoking and when I drove it on acceleration it bog down and cut off like the fuel pump failed. I had to re crank it and pull back in the driveway and put it in park it ran very smooth until I hit the acceleration
Get a Delphi or GM module because BWD = Broke When Delivered. Also don’t use an impact to install coils with such tiny screws holding down plastic
Replace the cam/crank/ICM wire harness. The wires inside the conduit will degrade and wires will short together causing all kind of gremlins. Take it out and take off all conduit to inspect all wires. I didn't believe it until I saw it happen on mine.
Make sure you super clean the piece it is mounted on as that will cause a problem down the road a bit. I use a slight coating of dielectric grease on mounting surface but many mechanics say it is not really necessary. Also clean the heat sinks as that is also important to help with the built up heat engine causes as extreme heat can ruin the module.
My Pontiac just stalled out while running for maybe 2 minutes and wouldn’t start back up … I replaced the coils wires and plugs about a year and a half ago … the fuel pump turned on when I turned the key to on and the fuel rail had pressure at the Schrader valve so I’m installing this part tomorrow when it comes …hoping it works
Did it work?
Did it work?
I've got an 05 Grand Prix 3800 I'm getting weak spark on coil 6 and 3 I've changed it out still week running like crap would this be a ignition module?
IT COIULD BE IM ASSUMING YOU PUT NEW WIRES ON AS WELL? ALSO IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A SCAN TOOL YOU SHOULD DO A CRANKSHAFT POSITION LEARN IF IT IS RUNNING GOOD.
I have a question my ignition module fuse blows every five minutes. Do you think the module has to change it and is it causing that short?
Hey Mr joe i have a question. I have a 2006 pontiac grand prix. I replaced the fuse box all have new fuses i replaced both of the lights and light bulbs but my low beams and drl still is not working. Do you have any suggestions?
Mine has the red and orange wire connector missing where is
It plus in fuse for 02 keeps blowing fans don't work unless ac or heat on high and it's a 2 pin connector at fuse box bottom near battery no clue wth it's fir tho
Ok here is a question. 2006 grand prix 3.8 running rough and even worse in gear. Throwing misfire code replaced all 3 coil packs wires and plugs still running the same. Think its the Ignition module?
Misfire code for specific cylinder?
Does This Happens Wit Misfire
Saludos. Muy buen aporte. Desde Caracas Venezuela. Tengo un Gm Impala con el mismo motor 3800 idéntico al Grand Prix. Pierde la chispa y se apaga. A veces la recupera y enciende y rueda unos días y otra vez le viene la falla. Le hemos colocado 3 módulos de encendido usados y ha hecho lo mismo. No tiene DTC. Que puede ser?
Saludos! ya lo reparaste? qué fue?
No te sale ningún código amigo
@@sergiodeleon860 Era el sensor del Cigueñal
What’s wrong with the old one
Hey ... My grand prix runs but wen u hit the gas it shut off wat it cuz be ... I'm getting gas and spark ... But dats the only thing it does wen I started it
Does it shut off like it is just dead or does it chug and then shut off
Mine chugs and then shuts off I have 08 and it will drive fine untill engine has been running for a bit then all of a sudden the rpm Guage goes all whacky and it like it fighting to accelerate and if I give gas it will just die in the middle of the road or traffic, I changed the MAF aswell it didn't change a dam thing I cleaned the throttle body it ran smoother for a tad longer and now I'm right back to square 1 it stalls when driving for a bit , do you think it's cause I'm not getting enough voltage from the icm plz help if u can
So cleaning off the mounted plate before putting the new module on isnt so important?? I thought it had to be cleaned and then dyelectric grease added Then mounted
Lot of people say that but never has an issue
Will it be in a different location on a four cylinder
Would the cause no spark?
So those 3 orangeish red oval rubber boots....are those strictly for sealing out water?
yes those are gaskets to keep the terminals out of elements and free of corrosion
@@JoeTheAutoGuy Thanks, Joe. This is a 2004 Grand Prix 3.8
A few days ago, I replaced only the 5/2 coil pack and the #2 plug, as that's all I had time for. Once installed, the car seemed to run well and didn't seem to be misfiring. I took it for a ride around the block. The check engine turned off on it's own and it seemed to be running much better. Some dummy cut me off and I had to accelerate to avoid a crash. In so doing, by punching it, the car responded great initially, but then the engine light came back on steady and the acceleration is very sluggish at most times. I continued my drive and went to AutoZone to clear the code. I got it cleared, but it came back on within blocks of leaving. I'm just wondering what's going on. I focused on the #2 plug and the 5/2 coil pack for replacement because the initial scan indicated #2 misfire AND because I could visually see that same coil pack leaking an arc. I'm wondering if my continued problems could be having the remaining old plugs still in place, plus the fact that the single plug I replaced is a new iridium plug, while the old plugs are standard. Sorry this is so long. Do you have any thoughts?
@@PureBlood42 I would replace all of the wires and plugs , but that is me . they do need to be tuned up after so many thousand miles . check your book for exact number of miles . i do mine regularly after so many thousand miles and it never misses a beat. in the process of changing my fuel filter now because of a slight miss it has going on and they need to be changed every 10,000 to 15,00 miles for best fuel pump life ..
@barney rice ~ Thank you! I did end up replacing all plugs and plug wires and the car ran like a top. Months later, a crackhead T-Boned me by hanging an unexpected U-turn. He totaled my Grand Prix and fled the scene. Cops found his disabled Escalade. He had no insurance or license. I'm in a 2001 Grand Marquis now. Lol.
Would this prevent all injectors from firing?
If the crank signal is not being sent to pcm then the pcm would have no reason for the injectors to fire So im a way yes but diagnostic steps should be done to see if the pcm sees crank signal
Any experience with 2 of these getting toasted within a month or so??? Plugs & wires less than 2 years old.......one coil smoked earlier & bad ICM now new ICM not firing a coil but coil fires when swapped around.......200,000 miles on car & aside from basics it's been tremendous.
when you swapped the coils did it start to miss on another plug?? that will show you which coil is bad when it does that. also when you remove coil pack really clean the base where it will sit good and shiny and use some dielectric grease before you lay down the new coil pack if you change one out .
@@barneyrice8502 Yep swapped & no fire off the bad coil 1st time around while also a bad ICM.......2nd ICM all coils were still good when played the swap game & got a new ICM then good to go......doing some research I'm looking if I've had some overcharging issues off alternator possibly. This stuff never happens in nicer weather it's always winter it seems......
Crank but no start causing this problem?
If the ignition module is bad, will it crank and will the fuel pump come on. I have an 04 that just one day wouldn't start. No crank,no fuel pump comming on. And my scam tool won't connect to the car now
it should still crank fine just not start ! usually when the module is going bad it will start to miss before it goes totally out . also replace fuel filter as this will make your fuel pump work overtime and eventually burn it out . these things filter particles down to 5 Microns and need to be replaced every 10.00 to 15,000 miles to help your fuel pump last a long time ..
I would have cleaned the terminal with electronic cleaner, then I would have cleaned the peace with the modular, before you put the new English in module on that shelf type area. But i am OCD..... I like everything clean and just downright sort of like when it comes out of the factory.
Would this be a cause of a no crank no start condition? I’m going crazy I can’t get my Grand Prix to start
Not a no crank , but no start condition
Having same problem with my 02 Grand Prix no start no click changed starter and alternator
Did it make noise trying 2 start I changed starter and alternator all I hear is a lil humming no click
Im having the same problem
@@paulabrahamson4725 I had a bad ground car started turning back over but found out I got a bad ignition module
Would that explain rough idle and surging the sec putting it in drive
Multiple reasons that could be occurring, any dtcs recorded
@@JoeTheAutoGuy I haven't trying using a engine code reader yet to learn what it would say on what going with it
it would roof idle all the time .
No re-programming required?
Nope not on this one
good job man, I am going to do the same thing, will throw my hands up if it doesn't work, new intake gaskets, water pump, radiator, head gaskets, hoses. coolant temp sensor, top of the map plastic piece broke when I put in a new pcv valve, broke off an intake bolt I may have to jb weld, coolant reservoir nipple cracked and broke off. I got the 2004 from the auction but never had this many things go wrong, or were already wrong, to top it off prior owner was superman or overtorqued tightened everything. hood hinges broke now I need a hood, windshield cracked, need a brake job, two tires show cords and the transmission is good but can't keep fluid in it because the dipstick I moved getting headers off now leaks from the dipstick. Need all new coolant, Freon, because changed radiator. the dash is cracking, all the plastic is cracking and computer kicked out codes for knock sensor, (looks difficult, plus I have no lift, somebody stole the jack I borrowed, tried take my intake for metal lol. Lastly I didn't put all my brackets back on and broke a motor mount on dull metal part, not the black. if still runs bad wont crank have to try map and maf sensor, probably pay someone for knock sensor but could never even get half back what I got in it. Wish me luck your doing a good thing helping people man. Thank You, Ryan
ryan graves so it runs great now?
Holy shit, sounds like you should have just junked the car dude. 3800 Series II is bullet proof, but not when someone abuses the hell out of it.
do not for get your fuel filter as they need to be changed every 10,000 to 15,000 miles . they filter particles as small as 5 microns and they do clog up and if not changed they will burn out your fuel filter in time !!!
I can't believe that you Did Not, at least clean of the crusty mounting pad BEFORE you replaced the ICM, let alone use any heat sink lube between them.
Still going strong to this day to
@@JoeTheAutoGuy.... Hello, Joe.... thatnk you for the reply. I'm not sure exactly when you changed that ICM, out... but apparently, it does not matter whether or not "you" (re:anyone) use any or No paste or grease in between the base of the ICM and it's mounting pad/heat sink. What say, you?
I just changed the ICM on my wife's 02 Buick, and I "straight edged" the mounting pad before putting it all back together... was not "flat" with a center high spot, almost the length of the pad, as well as several other spots.
I inverted the mounting pad onto my larger belt sander machine with and initial 60 grit belt and removed just enough material to where the belt was just beginning to touch the low spots, then switched to a 120 grit briefly then down to a 220 grit.... now had a perfectly flat surface to mount the ICM on to.
I put a thin film of grease on the pad, then set the ICM on it, and then "hand pressed" it against the pad, then removed it... had a perfect, even contact print from end to end and from side to side.
I then cleaned it all up and mounted it dry, with the exception of some Permatex dialectric grease around the base of the coil pack's.
I was thinking of putting shims at the ICM mounting points to create air space & airflow between the ICM and the mount... but didn't.
I did, however... polish down and color buffed the mounting pad after I sanded it flat, on my 3hp pedestal metal buffing machine (Baldor), to remove any and all surface imperfections to a near mirror finish.... running great so far, with no issues.
@@Romans--bo7brhow would you shim it?
@@danielbrown6851.... Hello Daniel, thanks for the reply. "Shim it"..???? Not sure of your question.. could you explain the question a bit better? Thanks.
Lmk mm now
???
Thanks for the video. I thought it would be more challenging to replace ECM but just as easy as a tune up. 🫡