Straight robbery. Over 100$+ for something you can do in 5 minutes yourself. I just got a new tps for 10$ on amazon myself because I have the same problems that you described. I am so glad I decided to do it myself and your video makes me feel that much better seeing how simple it is now. Thanks!
ok, i just literally just changed the sensor i bought at Oriellys ($34.99), and walla its fixed. idles normal, how it should , took it around the corner and came to complete stops a few times and no more engine dying. awesome video sir. thanks a lot!
I thought the same thing about the 'conforting' voice. although it may also just be so comforting that this saved me my family 280$. thats what Chrysler wanted to swap this little guy out.
Old school mechanic here thats fairly new to fuel injection ( ran my 66 d100 till i just couldnt anymore) my new (to me) 2002 dakota revs to 2k at startup and constantly shifts high and in and out of OD while cruising on flat land. sounds like a $40 gamble may be worth it and it looks so simple a noob could do it. TY
Used this very helpful video to replace my TPS in my 2006 Dodge Durango and it runs perfectly now. I was worried about going to the dealership, but this $25 part was too easy to install. Thanks.
Unbelievable that someone charged you $150 to do that, my quote was $225 for labor! Thank you for this video, you saved me $225 I did it myself very easily!
Ronald, sorry I've never worked on a Saab. And I can't find any detailed information about replacing the TPS. But from the pictures that I found of a TPS for a Saab, it looks like it would be very similar to the one in this video.
Thanks for this advice, I was ready to get rid of my 2000 4.7 Dodge Dakata 4x4 for idling so rough. After replacing the TPS, I'm idling so much smoother and the truck doesn't vibrate as much when driving
one other symptom that occurs. is hard up and down shifting. this is often noticeable while in heavy stop and go traffic. This is due to the swing in RPM from the tps sending false readings.
Good vid. Just a couple of points: My Haynes manual indicates that the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor, which also determines gas levels like the TPS, can cause similar symptoms to a faulty TPS. Testing of the TPS with a voltage meter is recommended to see if it is the TPS that is faulty and not the MAP sensor. Having said that, if you replace your TPS and the symptoms still occur, it is likely your MAP sensor that really needs to be replaced, although that is a more expensive process of elimination. Also, instructions that came with my new sensor spoke about testing the new sensor by rotating it in place on the throttle body before installing the screws. Finally, depending on the year of the vehicle, it may have an O-ring or a gasket, so make sure you check which it has before installation (your new one should come with both). Cheers.
No, thank you for making the vid. It helped me a lot. I've saved tons of $ because of vids like yours! One last point: I found the electrical connection was hard to get off as the release tab was hard for me to press (I guess the plastic gets stiff over time - or I have) , so I removed the TPS still attached to the electrical connection then flipped it over and it was way easier to get the it off.
Thank you so much just change Minds today. About to go do a test drive see how it does on the corner let the car warm up but thank you for the video keep making more man you help me out a lot. thank you.
I have a 04 v8 5.7 Durango. Having a problem with acceleration hesitation at low speeds only. No check engine light, could the TPS sensor be the problem?
I didn't disconnect the battery this time, but it's a good idea to disconnect the battery anytime you're replacing sensors and such. The engine may run differently for a short time after disconnecting the battery, but it should eventually return to running normal after it "re-learns" everything again. I had disconnected the battery on this vehicle before for a different repair, and when I reconnected the battery and started the engine it wouldn't even idle very well. I had to drive it for ten miles or more before it began to idle correctly.
The throttle position sensor on my 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport is a pain to get to. It is located to the back of the engine. The air hose, other wires, cramped space, and little light all add to the problem.
I have a 2006 Dodge Durango 4.7 and have to replace it every winter. I just found out that is due to heavy rain or water from car wash will leak onto the engine and mess with the sensor. I was told that they have the 07 windshield cowl that fits early models that will fix that issue, just a fyi
No, I didn't do a calibration at all when I replaced the TPS. And I didn't need to reset the PCM or ECM. I believe that once I had started it after the new TPS was installed, that it idled a bit higher then normal, but after letting it idle for just a minute or so the idle came down to where it would normally run.
Please tell me, what is that hose above the sensor, the one on my girlfriend's car is cracked and I need to replace it but I cannot find it for the life of me.
It's just a vacuum line. Follow it back to where the other end is connected at and disconnect it. You can get new hose at most parts stores. Take it with you to make sure you get the correct inside diameter and length.
Thanks for this great video! Makes it simple. Could this also be the problem when a car cuts off moving at low speed. That is a another problem with the Durangos. If anybody can help but appreciate it. I have a 2000 Dodge Durango 4.7, basically the same as Dakota. Thanks folks!
If you mean that you would be using the old "O" ring, yes I've done that before. As long as it's still in good shape. On one TPS that I bought the new "O" ring didn't fit as well, and I used the old one instead and it worked fine. Still working as a matter of fact.
Hi Mel. No, the system on your 2009 is a lot different, and it consists of a sensor on your accelerator pedal (position requester) and also a sensor on the throttle body unit (position feedback). Both sensors work with the ETC (electronic throttle controller) system which then controls the DC motor on the throttle body. You may have to have a shop analyze your vehicle to see exactly which part of the system failed.
+Tyrone Walker You're probably good if the rpm is stable and consistent across the entire throttle range. It was pretty obvious to me when the TPS on this Durango was defective because the rpm would fluctuate pretty drastically when I was driving at around 55 mph. But, the idle rpm was pretty stable though. So, it just shows that when a TPS does become defective, and it has drop-outs, that it can happen anywhere within it's TPS's range. Here's a link to a video that shows how to test the TPS using a volt meter: ua-cam.com/video/RdArBRZdr7A/v-deo.html . Good luck with your Dakota Tyrone.
Great video, super easy to follow! A couple things, though. Are you supposed to disconnect the ( - ) terminal when doing this? Also, I read somewhere else that you should reset the computer by disconnecting the ( - ) terminal and then turn the key and hold it there for 15 seconds. I will probably do what I just mentioned anyway as I don't think it could hurt, but wondering what you did.
No, I didn't disconnect the battery when I replaced the TPS. Since the electrical plug for the TPS was easily accessible, and I could unplug it before replacing the TPS, I chose not to disconnect the battery.. I used my code reader to reset the engine light after I was done. There are some people that feel that you should let the computer reset the engine light after doing a repair, but I don't. Evidently the computer will shut the engine light off after it has performed multiple successful starts/runs, where it doesn't encounter the system error any more. I would rather reset the engine light myself, and then see if it comes back on when I'm test running it after I've replaced it.
Should I do this? My 02 Durango idles low and stalls after I cleaned the battery terminals. I regret it because it was running perfect before I cleaned em.
That's typically what will happen when the battery is disconnected, or the battery is run down so far that it can't keep the system energized. On my 2000 I would have to drive it for 10-20 miles before it will figure things out again and start to idle normally.
HI Robert, I have an 01 dakota with a 4.7 v8 that's idling high at start up and has a few erratic rpms while idling. I noticed that on other how-to videos the TBS you show here is described as the IAC? Is the IAC different? if so, can you show where and how to replace it? Many Thnx for your appreciated and clear vids!...@
Hi Retro. The IACV, which is the idle air control valve, sits directly below the throttle positioning sensor (TBS) on this 4.7. If you test the TBS and it tests good, or if you replace the TBS and you still have the same problems afterwards, you may want to clean the contacts on the IACV and the contacts on the electrical plug for it. John Tyra had a similar RPM problem (a few posts down from here) and found that the problem he was having was from dirty contacts on the IACV. Cleaning the contacts seemed to fix the RPM problem for him. Let me know how you make out on ithis Retro. -Bob
+Robert Hosea Hi Bob, Another question, are the IAC's and TPS's plug and go or do they require recalibration or resetting of any kind? I'm guessing the cpu should adjust accordingly? Thnx :)
+Retro Verde The TPS didn't require any kind of calibration at all. And, I've never changed the IACV, but I'm pretty sure it also doesn't require any calibration.
+Robert Hosea Worked like a charm! I ended up replacing both IAC & TPS just to make sure and after a 30 min ride, everything went back to normal! The TPS still looked normal but the IAC was just black beyond recognition (Original at 101K miles). Thnx again, Bob for your kind help!!!...
I have a 4.7 dodge Dakota it will only stay running if I keep my foot on the gas it won’t idle do you think if I replaced this sensor it would fix my issue
That's hard to say. Have you recently disconnected the battery at all? I've run into that same problem when I've left something turned on and the battery gets completely drained, and the computer then needs to re-learn everything including how to idle. On mine it would take 10-15 miles of driving or so. If that's not the case, then a bad TPS could cause that problem. But there are still other multiple problems that could cause the same idle problem. There are videos that I've seen that show you how to test the TPS with a multi-meter. But then, the cost for a new TPS really wasn't that bad and it may just be a good place to start by replacing it and seeing if it fixes your problem. Here's a link to a video that shows how to test a TPS if you decide you want to test yours: ua-cam.com/video/_skVHdgtMTU/v-deo.html
+X Trujillo It might cause the engine to stall and quit running if the positioning sensor is defective and it's causing the idle's RPM to be lower than it should be. If the idle's RPM is where it should be at when you are shifting, than I doubt that is the problem.
Hey Robert, I recently replaced my battery and have since started having problems with the throttle increasing while sitting in park at idle and also just cutting out when at 55 mph and speeding up. It just cuts out. I floor it and it kicks back in again and is OK for a little while then does it again. I checked the ohms rate with a meter while slowly increasing the throttle. It doesn't have any dead spots that I could see on the meter. Volts going to the sensor is 4.5. Ohms at idle is.5. engine off. I increase the TPS and the ohms decrease as it should. Could it be the MAP? I checked voltage to that and it is 5.0 volts. The ohms output with engine off is .976. I know the TPS and the MAP work together to supply the right amount of fuel. I'm told there is no MAF sensor on this engine.
+John Tyra The MAP sensor would be the next thing I would suspect after the TPS. Your readings on the TPS sound correct. Last year I replaced the MAP sensor on my Durango with an after market version, and it worked fine at first, but after a day or so it started acting up similar to what you are experiencing. I replaced it with an OEM MAP sensor and it's been fine since.
I called a local parts store getting prices on TPS. The clerk said I should clean the IACV that is just below the TPS. I did this, it was dirty and covered with carbon. Seemed to have fixed my problem for $6 in carb cleaner. I will replace each should this only be a temporary fix. Thank you for your help. John
Ihave a Dodge Durango 2005 .the rpms won't go over 27k .I went to AutoZone and had a code come back that it's the throttle control sensor needed to be replaced.so I did .but it's still doing the same thing and reading the same code.is there a way to recalibrate your throttle control sensor?
Ryan, I didn't do any calibration at all on TPS after installing it. I'm not even sure if you can on this 2000 Durango. Interestingly though, the problem you're having with the rpm sounds like what my 2006 Chevy truck will do (and it's suppose to) when the transfer case is put in low range. When it's in low range the rpm won't go above about 2200 rpm. If your 05 Durango also has that feature, then maybe(?) it has something to do with a sensor on the transfer case that ties in with the throttle adjustment? That's a total stab in the dark, but it sure sounds similar.
I don't have a 4wd it's two wheel drive.it drive fine ,shifts great through the gears as long as I don't go over 2500 rpms.i changed out a a 02 sensor .you think the cat converter is plugged?
Ryan, I'm afraid I've never had any first-hand encounters with a plugged cat. I have had mufflers that have become severely plugged though. In those cases it was easy to locate the problem because there was very little exhaust coming out of the tail pipe. I would think that a plugged cat would have the exact same effect. Does it seem like there is enough exhaust coming out of the tail pipe?
I have a 2006 4.7L v8 Durango and I recently had the battery disconnected. After we reconnected the battery, the idle has been fluctuating, and it would even shut off at times. Do you think the TPS could be the problem?
Try calibrating it, very easy I can't remember the exact steps you can Google it like I did basically you turn key on remove fuse 31 depress accelerator replace fuse like I said Google it,it took me 5 min straiten the idle out in a few min.
hello, I am wondering... my 2001 dodge durango will start but died immediately if I am not pressing the gas pedal down. I have replaced the IAC valve to no avail. could replacing the TPS possibly fix my problem?? thanks for ANY advice you can give because I am at a loss 😵
That's a tough one. The TPS might be the next thing that I would check, but I really doubt that it would cause the engine to die, because on my 4.7 I can disconnect the TPS entirely and the motor stays running. When my TPS failed the engine would just momentarily drop out at the higher rpms. It could possibly be the MAP sensor, which is also fairly easy to change out. I had a bad MAP sensor once that caused the engine to run rough, but it also didn't cause the engine to die. Sorry I can't be more help. It would be great if you could let me know what you find on this. -Bob
+Robert Hosea ahhh I was afraid that you'd say something like this... to make things insteresting, my check engine light is not on yet when I hook up the CanOBD2 diagnostic tool by Innova, it reads "left front sensor circuit failure" I'm wondering if that has to do with the IAC valve I replaced and it still reading error because the IAC is not calibrated yet (in order to do so you must drive at 40mph for 5 min and of course I cannot do so with it dying like it is).... so you don't think it's the tps sensor at all? waste of money replacing? can I test it somehow?? any thoughts, inputs, suggestions would be awesome. thx!
Oh I would definitely change out the TPS if it were me. It was a relatively inexpensive part @ under $20 and easy to change. The only thing that I definitely know about electrical parts any more, is that when they fail, they never fail the same way twice it seems. So, you could experience entirely different symptoms than I did. And the same with the MAP sensor. One thing that I did read once was that a bad battery, or a bad charging system, could cause the engine to die at idle. I'll look around some more and see if I can find anything that might help you out.
My 96 Ram 1500 with the 5.9 started doing that. Would start fine, but as soon as I let it idle, it died. Turned out to be the battery!!! If the computer doesn't sense enough voltage, it won't run. Found this out on the net. Changed battery and runs perfectly....until now and it surges at an idle now. Can't really complain because it has 210,000 miles of hard ranch usage...not abused, but used to do a lot of heavy work. Am going to check out the TPS.
Kevin Darby, for some reason I'm unable to reply directly to your question. Hopefully you still see this. In regards to your question: On our Durango, anytime the battery was disconnected the computer module would have to re-learn our driving habits and such. It also effected the idle if I remember right. But, it only took a day or so of driving before it figured things back out. If you have been driving yours for a while since the battery was re-connected, and the idle is still fluctuating a lot, than possibly it could be the TBS.
My Durango seems to be acting up at most when I'm a stop, proceed and the transmissions almost seems confused when shifting into another gear, once at a consistent speed the problem seems to go away.. could this be my fix here?
When my TPS started acting up, the RPM would change noticeably at idle, and also when in cruise control. I never noticed any problem at all with the transmission shifting on mine. It sounds more like one of the transmission sensors are faulty. That did effect how mine shifted. Here's a video that shows changing out the transmission sensors on my Durango.. ua-cam.com/video/imtXCKg7P94/v-deo.html
It generally takes a few successful startups and shutdowns, where the computer doesn't detect the error any more, before it resets the engine light. I'm not sure how long it needs to run before it considers it successful though. I don't think just starting and shutting it down a couple of times will do it. On this same Durango, it took a couple days of driving before it reset the light on a different problem that we had, where the engine light came on.
No, I didn't see any noticeable difference on the mpg at all. The main thing that it helped for me was that the RPMs wouldn't just randomly increase and then drop back down to normal.
Loctite makes a stripped thread repair kit, though I have never used anything like that. It would be best just to tap the hole to a larger screw size and use a new screw. Or, tap the hole to a larger size and put a heli-coil in it if you want to use the same size screw.
@@GregoryAHerrera91 best thing to try is to pull the batter terminal off, let it sit for 10 minutes or so. Try again. It made my sensor work. But it still doesn't work the way it should, the way the old one did.
Robert Hosea Hey Robert wondering if you had any advice I just changed out all eight spark plugs as a maintenance tuneup and now it is not idling like it did perfectly before as a possible I incorrectly placed in a spark plug as there is no miss firing just wants to stall out unless I keep my foot on the pedal appreciate any advice you may have thanks this video was helpful in case I do have to change the TPS
This video should be in the ASMR section of youtube. Relaxing voice!! Probably the best how to video ive ever seen. Thanks!!
A+ on the video, clear, no mucking around, straight to it.
Straightforward and to the point without a lot of unnecessary crap thank you
1 min in and I have to say, you have a great narrator voice that is so clear.
Straight robbery. Over 100$+ for something you can do in 5 minutes yourself. I just got a new tps for 10$ on amazon myself because I have the same problems that you described. I am so glad I decided to do it myself and your video makes me feel that much better seeing how simple it is now. Thanks!
Very clearly filmed and narrated. Great video, thank you for making this.
Thank you Robert! Your video made this repair easy. Your sharing of this procedure saved me $120. My Dakota runs like a charm! Thanks again.
You sir are my hero. I managed to change it all by myself with your help.
This is exactly what I've been looking for !!! thank you !
Thank goodness for people like you. This video helped me a ton!
Thank you. I'm glad the video helped you out. -Bob
this guy's voice is almost as comforting as Morgan Freeman's!!!
ok, i just literally just changed the sensor i bought at Oriellys ($34.99), and walla its fixed. idles normal, how it should , took it around the corner and came to complete stops a few times and no more engine dying. awesome video sir. thanks a lot!
Nice video! Direct and to the point. Very well done!
Head Brooks Thank you!
I thought the same thing about the 'conforting' voice. although it may also just be so comforting that this saved me my family 280$. thats what Chrysler wanted to swap this little guy out.
2007 Durango. Thanks man. You gave me everything I needed to fix my car.
That's great Thomas! I'm glad the video helped you out.
Old school mechanic here thats fairly new to fuel injection ( ran my 66 d100 till i just couldnt anymore) my new (to me) 2002 dakota revs to 2k at startup and constantly shifts high and in and out of OD while cruising on flat land. sounds like a $40 gamble may be worth it and it looks so simple a noob could do it. TY
Used this very helpful video to replace my TPS in my 2006 Dodge Durango and it runs perfectly now. I was worried about going to the dealership, but this $25 part was too easy to install. Thanks.
Thanks Eric! I'm glad the video was helpful to you.
Thank you so much! Very easy with video. You are the man! Just saved some $$$!! Took me 20 mins from start to finish..
+Val King That's great Val! I'm glad you were able to get it replaced.
Unbelievable that someone charged you $150 to do that, my quote was $225 for labor! Thank you for this video, you saved me $225 I did it myself very easily!
Wow. $225 just for the labor. And it only takes but a few minutes to do it. I'm glad you saved some $$$ on this and did it yourself.
Robert Hosea help
trying to figure out how to replace a tps on 05 saab
Ronald, sorry I've never worked on a Saab. And I can't find any detailed information about replacing the TPS. But from the pictures that I found of a TPS for a Saab, it looks like it would be very similar to the one in this video.
Thanks for the Video, replaced mine and the RPM is stable now
That's great Veronica! I'm glad the video helped you out.
you sound like you do those first time on the job intro videos that go over basics lol. I thought that was pretty cool. nice video
Thanks for this advice, I was ready to get rid of my 2000 4.7 Dodge Dakata 4x4 for idling so rough. After replacing the TPS, I'm idling so much smoother and the truck doesn't vibrate as much when driving
Should you disconnect the battery first. when disconnecting and connecting the plug. Dont want any static discharge. on electonics
Yes, that's always a good idea when you're working on any of the electrical system that's part of the ECM circuitry.
Thank you for the feedback and Merry Christmas to you sir.
What’s the one directly under that one?
That is the idle air control motor.
Thank you bud
You are the man. Thank you, sir. 2007 Dakota P2074.
Thanks Nick. I'm glad the video was helpful to you.
one other symptom that occurs. is hard up and down shifting. this is often noticeable while in heavy stop and go traffic. This is due to the swing in RPM from the tps sending false readings.
Good vid. Just a couple of points: My Haynes manual indicates that the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor, which also determines gas levels like the TPS, can cause similar symptoms to a faulty TPS. Testing of the TPS with a voltage meter is recommended to see if it is the TPS that is faulty and not the MAP sensor. Having said that, if you replace your TPS and the symptoms still occur, it is likely your MAP sensor that really needs to be replaced, although that is a more expensive process of elimination. Also, instructions that came with my new sensor spoke about testing the new sensor by rotating it in place on the throttle body before installing the screws. Finally, depending on the year of the vehicle, it may have an O-ring or a gasket, so make sure you check which it has before installation (your new one should come with both). Cheers.
Great points Albert. Thank you!
No, thank you for making the vid. It helped me a lot. I've saved tons of $ because of vids like yours!
One last point: I found the electrical connection was hard to get off as the release tab was hard for me to press (I guess the plastic gets stiff over time - or I have) , so I removed the TPS still attached to the electrical connection then flipped it over and it was way easier to get the it off.
Told me exactly what I needed to know. Thanks
If you remember mutual of Omahas wild kingdom. This sounds just like him except the wild beast in it's natural habitat is the Durango. Great video
LOL. Thanks Richard.
Ty this has helped me and very good instructions
Thank you so much just change Minds today. About to go do a test drive see how it does on the corner let the car warm up but thank you for the video keep making more man you help me out a lot. thank you.
Worked on a 05 Ram! Thanks megas😁
That's great! I'm glad it helped out. Thank you for letting me know.
I have a 04 v8 5.7 Durango. Having a problem with acceleration hesitation at low speeds only. No check engine light, could the TPS sensor be the problem?
thanks very helpful I needed this video
You're welcome Lenn! I'm glad the video was helpful to you.
My 4.7 runs rough and lean at a stop could it still be this sensor
Do you disconnect the battery to replace the tps. Cause i replace mines it has a higher idle after replacement
I didn't disconnect the battery this time, but it's a good idea to disconnect the battery anytime you're replacing sensors and such. The engine may run differently for a short time after disconnecting the battery, but it should eventually return to running normal after it "re-learns" everything again. I had disconnected the battery on this vehicle before for a different repair, and when I reconnected the battery and started the engine it wouldn't even idle very well. I had to drive it for ten miles or more before it began to idle correctly.
Would this clear a p0505 code u think?
Thanks, nice video. From 01 durango 4.7 owner with a p0123 error code.
+mike s Excellent Mike! That's good to know that it help you out on your 2001.
Thank you for the video! I think even I can do this! I will replace it soon.
You're welcome!
The throttle position sensor on my 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport is a pain to get to. It is located to the back of the engine. The air hose, other wires, cramped space, and little light all add to the problem.
I have a 2006 Dodge Durango 4.7 and have to replace it every winter. I just found out that is due to heavy rain or water from car wash will leak onto the engine and mess with the sensor. I was told that they have the 07 windshield cowl that fits early models that will fix that issue, just a fyi
Thank you what's the rpm supposed to idle at
This 4.7L always idled in the range of 700-800 rpm.
Great vídeo thanks Sir,good info
IS CALIBRATION NEEDED AND IF SO WHATS THE STEPS ON BY ONE PLEASE
No, I didn't do a calibration at all when I replaced the TPS. And I didn't need to reset the PCM or ECM. I believe that once I had started it after the new TPS was installed, that it idled a bit higher then normal, but after letting it idle for just a minute or so the idle came down to where it would normally run.
Please tell me, what is that hose above the sensor, the one on my girlfriend's car is cracked and I need to replace it but I cannot find it for the life of me.
It's just a vacuum line. Follow it back to where the other end is connected at and disconnect it. You can get new hose at most parts stores. Take it with you to make sure you get the correct inside diameter and length.
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks for this great video! Makes it simple. Could this also be the problem when a car cuts off moving at low speed. That is a another problem with the Durangos. If anybody can help but appreciate it. I have a 2000 Dodge Durango 4.7, basically the same as Dakota. Thanks folks!
yes same issue if wont keep pumping gas after lifting foot off gas
Would it be okay to not put on the new gasket that comes with a new TPS? or would it cause problems?
If you mean that you would be using the old "O" ring, yes I've done that before. As long as it's still in good shape. On one TPS that I bought the new "O" ring didn't fit as well, and I used the old one instead and it worked fine. Still working as a matter of fact.
I have a 2009 Dodge Durango Hybrid. While driving to work, my car shut off. I looked it up and it’s a throttle control system. Is it the same thing?
Hi Mel. No, the system on your 2009 is a lot different, and it consists of a sensor on your accelerator pedal (position requester) and also a sensor on the throttle body unit (position feedback). Both sensors work with the ETC (electronic throttle controller) system which then controls the DC motor on the throttle body. You may have to have a shop analyze your vehicle to see exactly which part of the system failed.
I've just cleaned my throttle body in my 2K Dakota (OMG), should I check my TPS sensor for dirt? My rpm seem pretty stable.
+Tyrone Walker You're probably good if the rpm is stable and consistent across the entire throttle range. It was pretty obvious to me when the TPS on this Durango was defective because the rpm would fluctuate pretty drastically when I was driving at around 55 mph. But, the idle rpm was pretty stable though. So, it just shows that when a TPS does become defective, and it has drop-outs, that it can happen anywhere within it's TPS's range. Here's a link to a video that shows how to test the TPS using a volt meter: ua-cam.com/video/RdArBRZdr7A/v-deo.html . Good luck with your Dakota Tyrone.
Great video, super easy to follow! A couple things, though. Are you supposed to disconnect the ( - ) terminal when doing this? Also, I read somewhere else that you should reset the computer by disconnecting the ( - ) terminal and then turn the key and hold it there for 15 seconds. I will probably do what I just mentioned anyway as I don't think it could hurt, but wondering what you did.
No, I didn't disconnect the battery when I replaced the TPS. Since the electrical plug for the TPS was easily accessible, and I could unplug it before replacing the TPS, I chose not to disconnect the battery..
I used my code reader to reset the engine light after I was done. There are some people that feel that you should let the computer reset the engine light after doing a repair, but I don't. Evidently the computer will shut the engine light off after it has performed multiple successful starts/runs, where it doesn't encounter the system error any more. I would rather reset the engine light myself, and then see if it comes back on when I'm test running it after I've replaced it.
Should I do this? My 02 Durango idles low and stalls after I cleaned the battery terminals. I regret it because it was running perfect before I cleaned em.
That's typically what will happen when the battery is disconnected, or the battery is run down so far that it can't keep the system energized. On my 2000 I would have to drive it for 10-20 miles before it will figure things out again and start to idle normally.
HI Robert, I have an 01 dakota with a 4.7 v8 that's idling high at start up and has a few erratic rpms while idling. I noticed that on other how-to videos the TBS you show here is described as the IAC? Is the IAC different? if so, can you show where and how to replace it? Many Thnx for your appreciated and clear vids!...@
Hi Retro.
The IACV, which is the idle air control valve, sits directly below the throttle positioning sensor (TBS) on this 4.7. If you test the TBS and it tests good, or if you replace the TBS and you still have the same problems afterwards, you may want to clean the contacts on the IACV and the contacts on the electrical plug for it. John Tyra had a similar RPM problem (a few posts down from here) and found that the problem he was having was from dirty contacts on the IACV. Cleaning the contacts seemed to fix the RPM problem for him. Let me know how you make out on ithis Retro.
-Bob
+Robert Hosea
Will try that. Thnx, Bob!...
+Robert Hosea
Hi Bob, Another question, are the IAC's and TPS's plug and go or do they require recalibration or resetting of any kind? I'm guessing the cpu should adjust accordingly? Thnx :)
+Retro Verde
The TPS didn't require any kind of calibration at all. And, I've never changed the IACV, but I'm pretty sure it also doesn't require any calibration.
+Robert Hosea
Worked like a charm! I ended up replacing both IAC & TPS just to make sure and after a 30 min ride, everything went back to normal! The TPS still looked normal but the IAC was just black beyond recognition (Original at 101K miles).
Thnx again, Bob for your kind help!!!...
I have a 4.7 dodge Dakota it will only stay running if I keep my foot on the gas it won’t idle do you think if I replaced this sensor it would fix my issue
That's hard to say. Have you recently disconnected the battery at all? I've run into that same problem when I've left something turned on and the battery gets completely drained, and the computer then needs to re-learn everything including how to idle. On mine it would take 10-15 miles of driving or so. If that's not the case, then a bad TPS could cause that problem. But there are still other multiple problems that could cause the same idle problem. There are videos that I've seen that show you how to test the TPS with a multi-meter. But then, the cost for a new TPS really wasn't that bad and it may just be a good place to start by replacing it and seeing if it fixes your problem. Here's a link to a video that shows how to test a TPS if you decide you want to test yours: ua-cam.com/video/_skVHdgtMTU/v-deo.html
Thank you sir I replaced the sensor on it and it did fix my issue so I got lucky this time
Excellent! I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Great tutorial!
I'm wondering, was the problem solved simply by replacing the TPS?
Thanks.
moises linares Thank you! Yes, replacing the TPS did fix the problem I was having with the rpm's randomly increasing.
Robert Hosea much appreciated. It seems as though this was indeed the problem. The part cost about $40 at autozone. Glad it was a simple fix.
I know nothing about trucks but if my truck complete shuts off when I go from reverse to drive, will this also fix the problem?
+X Trujillo It might cause the engine to stall and quit running if the positioning sensor is defective and it's causing the idle's RPM to be lower than it should be. If the idle's RPM is where it should be at when you are shifting, than I doubt that is the problem.
Hey Robert,
I recently replaced my battery and have since started having problems with the throttle increasing while sitting in park at idle and also just cutting out when at 55 mph and speeding up. It just cuts out. I floor it and it kicks back in again and is OK for a little while then does it again. I checked the ohms rate with a meter while slowly increasing the throttle. It doesn't have any dead spots that I could see on the meter. Volts going to the sensor is 4.5. Ohms at idle is.5. engine off. I increase the TPS and the ohms decrease as it should. Could it be the MAP? I checked voltage to that and it is 5.0 volts. The ohms output with engine off is .976. I know the TPS and the MAP work together to supply the right amount of fuel. I'm told there is no MAF sensor on this engine.
+John Tyra The MAP sensor would be the next thing I would suspect after the TPS. Your readings on the TPS sound correct. Last year I replaced the MAP sensor on my Durango with an after market version, and it worked fine at first, but after a day or so it started acting up similar to what you are experiencing. I replaced it with an OEM MAP sensor and it's been fine since.
I called a local parts store getting prices on TPS. The clerk said I should clean the IACV that is just below the TPS. I did this, it was dirty and covered with carbon. Seemed to have fixed my problem for $6 in carb cleaner. I will replace each should this only be a temporary fix.
Thank you for your help.
John
That's great that you got it fixed John! And thanks for the tip on the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). That's good to know.
Thank you I'll try to replace mine
Thank you!
Ihave a Dodge Durango 2005 .the rpms won't go over 27k .I went to AutoZone and had a code come back that it's the throttle control sensor needed to be replaced.so I did .but it's still doing the same thing and reading the same code.is there a way to recalibrate your throttle control sensor?
Ryan, I didn't do any calibration at all on TPS after installing it. I'm not even sure if you can on this 2000 Durango. Interestingly though, the problem you're having with the rpm sounds like what my 2006 Chevy truck will do (and it's suppose to) when the transfer case is put in low range. When it's in low range the rpm won't go above about 2200 rpm. If your 05 Durango also has that feature, then maybe(?) it has something to do with a sensor on the transfer case that ties in with the throttle adjustment? That's a total stab in the dark, but it sure sounds similar.
I don't have a 4wd it's two wheel drive.it drive fine ,shifts great through the gears as long as I don't go over 2500 rpms.i changed out a a 02 sensor .you think the cat converter is plugged?
Ryan, I'm afraid I've never had any first-hand encounters with a plugged cat. I have had mufflers that have become severely plugged though. In those cases it was easy to locate the problem because there was very little exhaust coming out of the tail pipe. I would think that a plugged cat would have the exact same effect. Does it seem like there is enough exhaust coming out of the tail pipe?
I have a 2006 4.7L v8 Durango and I recently had the battery disconnected. After we reconnected the battery, the idle has been fluctuating, and it would even shut off at times. Do you think the TPS could be the problem?
Try calibrating it, very easy I can't remember the exact steps you can Google it like I did basically you turn key on remove fuse 31 depress accelerator replace fuse like I said Google it,it took me 5 min straiten the idle out in a few min.
hello,
I am wondering... my 2001 dodge durango will start but died immediately if I am not pressing the gas pedal down. I have replaced the IAC valve to no avail. could replacing the TPS possibly fix my problem??
thanks for ANY advice you can give because I am at a loss 😵
That's a tough one. The TPS might be the next thing that I would check, but I really doubt that it would cause the engine to die, because on my 4.7 I can disconnect the TPS entirely and the motor stays running. When my TPS failed the engine would just momentarily drop out at the higher rpms. It could possibly be the MAP sensor, which is also fairly easy to change out. I had a bad MAP sensor once that caused the engine to run rough, but it also didn't cause the engine to die. Sorry I can't be more help. It would be great if you could let me know what you find on this. -Bob
+Robert Hosea ahhh I was afraid that you'd say something like this...
to make things insteresting, my check engine light is not on yet when I hook up the CanOBD2 diagnostic tool by Innova, it reads "left front sensor circuit failure"
I'm wondering if that has to do with the IAC valve I replaced and it still reading error because the IAC is not calibrated yet (in order to do so you must drive at 40mph for 5 min and of course I cannot do so with it dying like it is)....
so you don't think it's the tps sensor at all? waste of money replacing? can I test it somehow??
any thoughts, inputs, suggestions would be awesome.
thx!
Oh I would definitely change out the TPS if it were me. It was a relatively inexpensive part @ under $20 and easy to change. The only thing that I definitely know about electrical parts any more, is that when they fail, they never fail the same way twice it seems. So, you could experience entirely different symptoms than I did. And the same with the MAP sensor.
One thing that I did read once was that a bad battery, or a bad charging system, could cause the engine to die at idle.
I'll look around some more and see if I can find anything that might help you out.
My 96 Ram 1500 with the 5.9 started doing that. Would start fine, but as soon as I let it idle, it died. Turned out to be the battery!!! If the computer doesn't sense enough voltage, it won't run. Found this out on the net. Changed battery and runs perfectly....until now and it surges at an idle now. Can't really complain because it has 210,000 miles of hard ranch usage...not abused, but used to do a lot of heavy work. Am going to check out the TPS.
does anything else need to be disconnected before replacing such as the battery? i saw someone disconnect the negative.
No, I didn't disconnect anything Morgan. Some people disconnect the battery just to reset the engine error code after they have replaced the TPS.
+Robert Hosea ok thank you
Kevin Darby, for some reason I'm unable to reply directly to your question. Hopefully you still see this.
In regards to your question: On our Durango, anytime the battery was disconnected the computer module would have to re-learn our driving habits and such. It also effected the idle if I remember right. But, it only took a day or so of driving before it figured things back out. If you have been driving yours for a while since the battery was re-connected, and the idle is still fluctuating a lot, than possibly it could be the TBS.
My Durango seems to be acting up at most when I'm a stop, proceed and the transmissions almost seems confused when shifting into another gear, once at a consistent speed the problem seems to go away.. could this be my fix here?
When my TPS started acting up, the RPM would change noticeably at idle, and also when in cruise control. I never noticed any problem at all with the transmission shifting on mine. It sounds more like one of the transmission sensors are faulty. That did effect how mine shifted. Here's a video that shows changing out the transmission sensors on my Durango.. ua-cam.com/video/imtXCKg7P94/v-deo.html
Next time you need let ppl know that the tps might need a hard reset that only sometimes that can only be performed at a professional shop.
Thanks
to you
How long does it take for the check engine light to turn off?
It generally takes a few successful startups and shutdowns, where the computer doesn't detect the error any more, before it resets the engine light. I'm not sure how long it needs to run before it considers it successful though. I don't think just starting and shutting it down a couple of times will do it. On this same Durango, it took a couple days of driving before it reset the light on a different problem that we had, where the engine light came on.
Can carbon build up effect the tps sensor?
No, I wouldn't think a carbon build up would be an issue Tyrone. But, I'm sure over time that dust could eventually get inside and effect it.
My 2000 Dodge Dakota is in shop now due to loss of power while pulling hills.
Did get any improvement in fuel economy after installation?
No, I didn't see any noticeable difference on the mpg at all. The main thing
that it helped for me was that the RPMs wouldn't just randomly increase
and then drop back down to normal.
What if I strip one of the mount screws and get it out?
Loctite makes a stripped thread repair kit, though I have never used anything like that. It would be best just to tap the hole to a larger screw size and use a new screw. Or, tap the hole to a larger size and put a heli-coil in it if you want to use the same size screw.
Thanks
Awesome, saved me $$$
Excellent. Better to do it yourself and use your money to put your own kids through college and not your mechanic's kids...
Perfect
I've been through many new sensors after my old one went bad and none of them work
Did you ever get it fixed. I bought 2 from autozone and both are bad
@@GregoryAHerrera91 best thing to try is to pull the batter terminal off, let it sit for 10 minutes or so. Try again. It made my sensor work. But it still doesn't work the way it should, the way the old one did.
Angryfarmergamer21 thanks ill give it a try
what is the bottom sensor
That is the IAC, the Idle Air Control valve.
Thanks !
Michael Colvin You're welcome Michael!
Robert Hosea Hey Robert wondering if you had any advice I just changed out all eight spark plugs as a maintenance tuneup and now it is not idling like it did perfectly before as a possible I incorrectly placed in a spark plug as there is no miss firing just wants to stall out unless I keep my foot on the pedal appreciate any advice you may have thanks this video was helpful in case I do have to change the TPS
I tapped my TPS with an ink pen and the rpms jumped a bit.
Me too any fix?
Amazon is cheap. But rockauto parts. Is half price of Amazon
u forgot to turn it on an test it....
Ok mines at like 6 700
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