this is a great video, I think it's really cool that you did this with only 2 pieces and painted it fully assembled. I've been searching the internet for 3d printing model railroad parts, I've been surprised to see that the examples I find print parts resembling a traditional model kit, without exploring some of the new possibilities, isn't exploring new challenges part of the fun?
Cool video, thanks for posting! I am currently working on an entirely fresh HO layout and the focus is printing as much as humanly possible (FDM printer). I want to push both hobbies at the same time to see what I can achieve, so sorry Walthers. :-) I'm just really getting started, but so far I've done a 196 foot double track truss girder bridge (fully self-supporting) that will be a drop down across the entryway to the room, a 75 foot through-girder wood bridge modeled from scratch for a photo, a 60 degree 18" radius curved thru-girder metal bridge, am currently working on a city-scape 3 dimensional backdrop and have even been experimenting with printing track pieces (they are amazingly smooth, and I'll be 100% battery locos, so it's legitimately on the table). As a side effect of this, I am looking forward to the cries foul of the scratch building purists of the world, lol. Cheers!
Looking at your office being warped tells me you are not running your layer expose times as high as they need to be. Being a cone you had no reason to tilt the model, I have found that expose times a little longer than you would expect work better for models with less detail. On models that are not clear, once the outer shell layers are cured, it does not matter how long it sits during curing. the UV light can only pernitrate so far.
The office was an early print, and I’m still learning what works. I’ve been having issues with bed adhesion for anything printed directly on the plate, including the cone shape. It took 3 tries before I got it right. So far, I’ve only used one type of water-washable resin. I need to try some others to see if I can get it to print straight on the plate. Seems my FEP film is a bit too sticky, or my build plate isn’t sticky enough!
@@JCsRiptrack Your base layers are probably too short and you might not have the proper number, it is a fine line, from will it stick or can I get it off the plate without a hammer.
Yes, 3d printing has a lot to offer for things you may need a lot of but let's not forget scratch building of the one of a kind....thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
John, it is very very important not to breath in the sanding dust. I’m passing on info relayed to me by a friend, he said you could get very sick and permanently damage your lungs. Since I don’t have a printer, I have not researched this info, but since he does I took at face value and followed his suggestion. So as with CV19 wear a mask to protect your respiratory system!
Yes, sanding resin of any variety, 3D printed or otherwise, needs to be done with care! The Elegoo Mars also comes with masks, which is more important if you’re using some of the more noxious resin types as well. Prior to curing, nitrile gloves are also a must!
I really like your video and the answers to the responses. I too would like to try printing but I'm computer illiterate 😔. I can do simple things but have never tried writing code. So for me it's a big, I'm to intimidated. Thanks for sharing this, Chris
Filament printing is easier and less messy, and can handle much larger prints, but can't handle the detail that resin printing can. It's a trade off. In the video there's a very brief clip where there are two Yard Offices displayed, one resin, one filament. If you pause the video, you can do a direct side-by-side comparison of resin vs. filament in terms of detail. The Yard Offices are printed in N-Scale from the same file, just different printers. You can see that the filament printer simply ignores the vertical ribs that the resin printer handles without issue.
It has enormous potential in this area. So far there's not a single repository of 3D locomotive files that fit the bill yet, but it's only a matter of time, plus you could even design your own!
Magnificent!!! You are quite an artist. Info you have presented here is priceless. I would like to ask you if those wonderful coal trucks you printed could be printed on a filament printer? I'm currently on the precipice of diving into 3D printing, but i'm beginning to think I bought the wrong type of printer. Would be very grateful for any guidance you are willing to give out. Love your channel. Thanks.
The coal trucks would be too small to print on a filament printer. I also have a filament printer (well two, my old one broke, so I just bought a new one). Newer filament printers are good, and are great for terrain, forms, shapes, printing racks for tools and paints. Resin printers are for detail work and model pieces. Is it worth having both? Absolutely! :)
Thank you for this feedback. You may have just convinced me to go on and buy a resin printer. If I do, where can I find coal trucks like the ones you printed?@@JCsRiptrack
I don't 3d print yet, but I have watched a lot of vids and I just about screamed when you said you cured your models for 30 minutes!!!! This was recorded a year ago... PLEASE tell me that you've cut that down to 3-5 minutes.
I have. The resin that I was using at the time cured soft, which is why I kept nuking it. Since then I've worked with different resins, and cure time is never more than a single cycle.
Free is the wrong term. The models from 3d model repository sites are licensed to you. If you use a model that isn't yours remember look at the license and make sure what you're doing with the model is within the terms you agreed to. For instance in most cases taking a model and printing then selling the physical item is a no, no because it breaches the a terms of the lisence.
That is correct. Downloading and selling prints is a definite no, but for one's personal layout, it is a huge resource. There's lots to be said about designing and printing your own stuff too!
im wanting to get into 3d printing but my computer skills may lag behind most younger people. can you recommed a few youtube channels besides your that might help? and can you do a vid on the sizing up process?
Hi Troy, I'm having a livestream on Tuesday with someone who really knows what they're doing. As for other channels who are dedicated to 3D Printing, there are a lot out there. Two recommendations I can make so far: for model railroading, DIY and Digital Railroad does a lot with 3D printing for model trains. Thomas Sandladerer is one of the best for all-round understanding of 3D Printing as well. Do a youtube search on either of them and you should find them. There are a number of others. As for a video on resizing stuff, that's a good idea. We may get into it a bit on the livestream, but recording myself going through the whole process has some merit. I will see what I can do.
The Resin printer itself is around $250 US, similar in price to a DCC equipped locomotive. Resin costs around $30-$50US or more per 1,000g bottle., you also need to buy/make a curing box, and have a way to wash the prints. SketchUp is free as an online app, but other 3D design programs range in price from inexpensive to really expensive. All in, it's about $400-500US to get started and there are consumables along the way. However, once you have it in place, printing the Beehive Burner, for example, is a material cost of about $1.25 in resin used. However, the "real" cost of that is the material investment, over time, the cost-per-item goes down as one prints more.
You mentioned not pouring the waste rinse water down the drain even with using water-soluble resin; what do you do with it then? I've got two filament printers that are easy to manage. Dealing with the chemicals etc is what keeps me from buying a small resin printer.
You're not wrong to be cautious. The waste water needs to be processed before it is disposed of. There's a few ways to do it, but the goal is to cure the uncured resin in the water and let it precipitate out of the water so that it can be disposed of safely. It's a few extra steps. Putting it outside is one option and let the sun do its thing, or I put mine in a jar small enough to go inside my curing box, and I hit it with UV light that way. Once the resin becomes solid it can be removed from the water with a coffee filter. Another alternative is to put the water into a shallow tray, set it outside, and let the water evaporate and the sunlight to cure the uncured resin.
Using non-water washable resins uses Isopropyl Alcohol and other cleaners, but the filtering process is the same, but in this case, some of that cleaning fluid can continue to be re-used.
Haven’t tried 3D printing yet but a bout a pair of resin machines that are still in the box knowing that I will enjoy it but not looking forward to the learning curve.
Thingiverse isn't the easiest thing to find stuff on. Sometimes it is luck. Is there a particular model you're looking for? I may be able to help with an extra set of eyes.
I’m interested in 3D printing, but I’ve heard the resin is some bad stuff. I have a two year old, which makes me think resin printers are not the way to go for me (I don’t have a good space, like a garage, to keep it away from him). Filament sounds a bit safer, but can filament print details for an N scale model?
If you're doing N-Scale, resin printing is the way to go. I have a six-year old, and he's aware that he's not supposed to be around it. I realize that two year olds have no such filter. The printer itself is fine, and the resin is stored in light-proof bottles that should be kept in the same kind of place you keep things like Bleach. Once printed and cured, it's safe to handle, but in the same way until your two year old is a bit older, that natural tendency to explore things with their mouth may be something to keep in mind. truthfully, I have both as I find they compliment each other. Maybe start with Filament to get into it, as you can print all sorts of household fun stuff including toys :)
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks! I guess I just had a one track mind (pun intended). I wasn’t thinking of what I could use a filament printer for outside of model trains.
this is a great video, I think it's really cool that you did this with only 2 pieces and painted it fully assembled. I've been searching the internet for 3d printing model railroad parts, I've been surprised to see that the examples I find print parts resembling a traditional model kit, without exploring some of the new possibilities, isn't exploring new challenges part of the fun?
Cool video, thanks for posting!
I am currently working on an entirely fresh HO layout and the focus is printing as much as humanly possible (FDM printer). I want to push both hobbies at the same time to see what I can achieve, so sorry Walthers. :-) I'm just really getting started, but so far I've done a 196 foot double track truss girder bridge (fully self-supporting) that will be a drop down across the entryway to the room, a 75 foot through-girder wood bridge modeled from scratch for a photo, a 60 degree 18" radius curved thru-girder metal bridge, am currently working on a city-scape 3 dimensional backdrop and have even been experimenting with printing track pieces (they are amazingly smooth, and I'll be 100% battery locos, so it's legitimately on the table).
As a side effect of this, I am looking forward to the cries foul of the scratch building purists of the world, lol.
Cheers!
hello having hard time learnung draw 3d i have a learning problem what simple program to laern 3d thanks tom
I hope you mailed him his print he asked you to make.
Looking at your office being warped tells me you are not running your layer expose times as high as they need to be. Being a cone you had no reason to tilt the model, I have found that expose times a little longer than you would expect work better for models with less detail. On models that are not clear, once the outer shell layers are cured, it does not matter how long it sits during curing. the UV light can only pernitrate so far.
I also build for HO, then down scale to N. I also can up scale models up to S or O scale too and they look very good.
The office was an early print, and I’m still learning what works. I’ve been having issues with bed adhesion for anything printed directly on the plate, including the cone shape. It took 3 tries before I got it right. So far, I’ve only used one type of water-washable resin. I need to try some others to see if I can get it to print straight on the plate. Seems my FEP film is a bit too sticky, or my build plate isn’t sticky enough!
@@JCsRiptrack Your base layers are probably too short and you might not have the proper number, it is a fine line, from will it stick or can I get it off the plate without a hammer.
Yes, 3d printing has a lot to offer for things you may need a lot of but let's not forget scratch building of the one of a kind....thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
I'm in ho I will like you to tell me how to make from n scale to ho I no
Sorry didnt hit the mark for me
John, it is very very important not to breath in the sanding dust. I’m passing on info relayed to me by a friend, he said you could get very sick and permanently damage your lungs. Since I don’t have a printer, I have not researched this info, but since he does I took at face value and followed his suggestion. So as with CV19 wear a mask to protect your respiratory system!
Yes, sanding resin of any variety, 3D printed or otherwise, needs to be done with care! The Elegoo Mars also comes with masks, which is more important if you’re using some of the more noxious resin types as well. Prior to curing, nitrile gloves are also a must!
I really like your video and the answers to the responses. I too would like to try printing but I'm computer illiterate 😔. I can do simple things but have never tried writing code. So for me it's a big, I'm to intimidated. Thanks for sharing this, Chris
There's no need in writing code for 3D printing. The programs do it for us. Most of it is handled through programs that do things visually.
you me mentioned resin printing on the beehive, It looks like a serious set of procedures. Is filament printing easier?
Filament printing is easier and less messy, and can handle much larger prints, but can't handle the detail that resin printing can. It's a trade off. In the video there's a very brief clip where there are two Yard Offices displayed, one resin, one filament. If you pause the video, you can do a direct side-by-side comparison of resin vs. filament in terms of detail. The Yard Offices are printed in N-Scale from the same file, just different printers. You can see that the filament printer simply ignores the vertical ribs that the resin printer handles without issue.
Glad you are finally back!
I'm hoping to get more videos out this month :)
I'm interested in it for printing locomotive shell types that aren't available for N scale.
It has enormous potential in this area. So far there's not a single repository of 3D locomotive files that fit the bill yet, but it's only a matter of time, plus you could even design your own!
Magnificent!!! You are quite an artist. Info you have presented here is priceless. I would like to ask you if those wonderful coal trucks you printed could be printed on a filament printer? I'm currently on the precipice of diving into 3D printing, but i'm beginning to think I bought the wrong type of printer. Would be very grateful for any guidance you are willing to give out. Love your channel. Thanks.
The coal trucks would be too small to print on a filament printer. I also have a filament printer (well two, my old one broke, so I just bought a new one). Newer filament printers are good, and are great for terrain, forms, shapes, printing racks for tools and paints. Resin printers are for detail work and model pieces. Is it worth having both? Absolutely! :)
Thank you for this feedback. You may have just convinced me to go on and buy a resin printer. If I do, where can I find coal trucks like the ones you printed?@@JCsRiptrack
FAVORITE? How about favorites!!! Hwy Safety Cones, barrels, people, animals, holy cow where do it stop!!!
I don't 3d print yet, but I have watched a lot of vids and I just about screamed when you said you cured your models for 30 minutes!!!! This was recorded a year ago... PLEASE tell me that you've cut that down to 3-5 minutes.
I have. The resin that I was using at the time cured soft, which is why I kept nuking it. Since then I've worked with different resins, and cure time is never more than a single cycle.
@@JCsRiptrack You don't know how happy that makes me!!!! Is your original curing machine still functioning?
Free is the wrong term. The models from 3d model repository sites are licensed to you. If you use a model that isn't yours remember look at the license and make sure what you're doing with the model is within the terms you agreed to. For instance in most cases taking a model and printing then selling the physical item is a no, no because it breaches the a terms of the lisence.
That is correct. Downloading and selling prints is a definite no, but for one's personal layout, it is a huge resource. There's lots to be said about designing and printing your own stuff too!
In general, I've found it's best to remove supports after washing the print, but before curing
im wanting to get into 3d printing but my computer skills may lag behind most younger people. can you recommed a few youtube channels besides your that might help? and can you do a vid on the sizing up process?
Hi Troy, I'm having a livestream on Tuesday with someone who really knows what they're doing. As for other channels who are dedicated to 3D Printing, there are a lot out there. Two recommendations I can make so far: for model railroading, DIY and Digital Railroad does a lot with 3D printing for model trains. Thomas Sandladerer is one of the best for all-round understanding of 3D Printing as well. Do a youtube search on either of them and you should find them. There are a number of others.
As for a video on resizing stuff, that's a good idea. We may get into it a bit on the livestream, but recording myself going through the whole process has some merit. I will see what I can do.
thank you i just subscribed to both
GO STAMPS!!!
What is the estimated cost of your tools and the cost to produce an object?
The Resin printer itself is around $250 US, similar in price to a DCC equipped locomotive. Resin costs around $30-$50US or more per 1,000g bottle., you also need to buy/make a curing box, and have a way to wash the prints. SketchUp is free as an online app, but other 3D design programs range in price from inexpensive to really expensive. All in, it's about $400-500US to get started and there are consumables along the way. However, once you have it in place, printing the Beehive Burner, for example, is a material cost of about $1.25 in resin used. However, the "real" cost of that is the material investment, over time, the cost-per-item goes down as one prints more.
You mentioned not pouring the waste rinse water down the drain even with using water-soluble resin; what do you do with it then? I've got two filament printers that are easy to manage. Dealing with the chemicals etc is what keeps me from buying a small resin printer.
You're not wrong to be cautious. The waste water needs to be processed before it is disposed of. There's a few ways to do it, but the goal is to cure the uncured resin in the water and let it precipitate out of the water so that it can be disposed of safely. It's a few extra steps. Putting it outside is one option and let the sun do its thing, or I put mine in a jar small enough to go inside my curing box, and I hit it with UV light that way. Once the resin becomes solid it can be removed from the water with a coffee filter. Another alternative is to put the water into a shallow tray, set it outside, and let the water evaporate and the sunlight to cure the uncured resin.
Using non-water washable resins uses Isopropyl Alcohol and other cleaners, but the filtering process is the same, but in this case, some of that cleaning fluid can continue to be re-used.
@@JCsRiptrack Thx. The company I used to work for only used resins that needed alcohol clean up and I never had to do any of it.
Love airbrush via a paint brush idea for weathering, many thanks for that one. Ho and a great printed model 👍
Haven’t tried 3D printing yet but a bout a pair of resin machines that are still in the box knowing that I will enjoy it but not looking forward to the learning curve.
The learning curve is worth climbing. Mind you, I'm only part-way up the slope.
Well explained.
Thanks, Tom.
I can’t figure out how to find anything on thingiverse
Thingiverse isn't the easiest thing to find stuff on. Sometimes it is luck. Is there a particular model you're looking for? I may be able to help with an extra set of eyes.
I’m interested in 3D printing, but I’ve heard the resin is some bad stuff. I have a two year old, which makes me think resin printers are not the way to go for me (I don’t have a good space, like a garage, to keep it away from him). Filament sounds a bit safer, but can filament print details for an N scale model?
I see someone else asked this. Thanks!
If you're doing N-Scale, resin printing is the way to go. I have a six-year old, and he's aware that he's not supposed to be around it. I realize that two year olds have no such filter. The printer itself is fine, and the resin is stored in light-proof bottles that should be kept in the same kind of place you keep things like Bleach. Once printed and cured, it's safe to handle, but in the same way until your two year old is a bit older, that natural tendency to explore things with their mouth may be something to keep in mind. truthfully, I have both as I find they compliment each other. Maybe start with Filament to get into it, as you can print all sorts of household fun stuff including toys :)
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks! I guess I just had a one track mind (pun intended). I wasn’t thinking of what I could use a filament printer for outside of model trains.
👍