How To Get The Best From Your Brakes | Mountain Bike Disc Brake Set Up Tips
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- How do you like your brakes? Levers horizontal or pointed down? Biting close to the bar or not much movement in the lever at all? It's all personal preference and its worth experimenting a bit to find a set up that works best for you🔧
In association with Magura
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We've partnered with Magura for this video as they offer a number of different customisation options to really fine tune your set up. There are 12 models of disc brake available in both two and four piston configurations; with four lever blade options. There are four sizes of rotor and three different pad compounds to choose from; along with coloured piston covers to coordinate your ride!
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How do you like your brakes? Levers horizontal or pointed down? Biting close to the bar or not much movement in the lever at all?
I don't care for much movement on my brake levers about 1/2 compression to fully break I have them facing downward with your arm is how I run mine love the show keep up the awesome content your friend Keith from Asheville North Carolina
I'm using the MT5 with organic performance pads on my big and enduro bike. I love that they are nearly free of fading (except when the pads are down to zero ^^ ) My levers are pointed fairly down, as it fits the position of my hands on the grips (straight forearm at highspeed and/steeps). The contact point is at 3cm of the bars, which makes them be parallel to the grips (most leverage power).
Tipp for every Magura user: don't buy cheap pads, wear them in properly and brake them dry after washing your bike (just fading, no locking!). This way the pads stay the most reliable and last the longest ^_^
I try to keep mine inline with forearm with index finger on lever at all times. Like the lever to be very stiff with no play. Also keep the entire assembly slightly loose on bar so it can move in crash. Love my XT stoppers. Better than those on my motorcycle.
@Strong man they are
Carbotecture® ;-)
but I switched to the aluminium 1-finger lever too ;)
I understand you need to run commercials to pay the bills but this was a bit much without a "sponsored content" disclaimer.
I’ve still got a set of them hydraulic rim brakes on my 20 year old P3 😂😂😂
nice!
I absolutely love my Magura MT7s. I 'ended up' a pair because they were on an e-mtb that I bought as a 'demo' from the guy who imported Bosch e-mtb systems and Magura into Australia in 2016...amazing brakes... I've been spoilt...big time!
Thank you doddy . You are the best...i can work by bike on my own..
9:45 Thank you. You answered why I was getting numbness in my hands. I adjusted the levers and it's gone. In my case the levers were too close to the grips and also too high. Brilliant, thanks.
You can address carpal tunnel issues a little by stretching. As a long-time cyclist and motorcyclist, I learned a good stretching technique which is really simple. You put you hands together pointed straight up (like you are praying), and push your wrists downward until you feel your carpal tendons stretch. You then do the opposite, putting the tops of your hands together and pull your wrists upwards and stretch the opposite tendons. This works very well, and can limit the potential for Carpal Tunnel Syndrome.
When I fitted Guide RSCs to my 26, it took me ages to get them set up as there was so much choice for setting them up. Daddy is right, take the time to adjust experiment and try different set ups, before long you will find what suits and they do feel amazing when you get it right. Cool video Cheers.
This is the best information I've ever received on the depth of brakes...you're the best my friend.
I've used almost every brand of brakesets ive tried hope brakeseg but i still choose Magura i just love the modulation and power
This video literally answered every question I was thinking about! Another top video from you guys and gals!🙂
Thanks doddy....... great vid and wow man you can talk and I love listening to you its like listening to classical fm on a Sunday afternoon eating egg mayo sandwiches 🤘🏻 Great tips n awesome info the factors that go into choosing the right brakes n Im now after thirty years of riding only just finding my true riding style n brake position for my enduro riding up in the peaks 🤘🏻🤘🏻😎😎
Thanks for the video, great detail. So close to motorcycles and their design. When you mention about front and back rotors different as I understand that 75 percent of the braking is from the front and less on the rear performance. Good tips on the brake set up on the handlebars thanks. I made a video about the different fixing on centre lock rotors as I had Sram and was sold Shimano. I hope you also have a video talking about this. Thanks for a great video.
12 years ago my first proper mtb had Magura Louise BAT brakes on it. For 12 years, after owning almost everything out there, those were up to date the very best brakes i ever had. Now i just bought a new bike that came with Magura MT5s on it. And now these are the best brakes ive ever had. The bite, quality, heat resistance, modulation, ergonomics, weight and price of these brakes is just simply unbeatable....i saw the results of a heat-failure lab test, the Maguras and the Trickstuff brakes were the only ones that never failed under heat. The had the most bite of them all, and in case of the Magura they were even the lightest and cheapest brakes on test. Best brakes ever, thanks Magura for making high-value stuff for our money..
You should try mt7's the lever feel (for me) is just better
Digging the sam hill bars. I got the 38mm rise and they are sick
Thank You, pretty video and very useful !!!!
Always great info Doddy!
Thanks! 👊
I my be old fashion but I love Shimano brakes just got deore 6000 and I love the look and feel and love your show all the best for everyone in gmbn ,😃👍
Hi,
great video. those tools (ability to customize brakes with different parts) were always there, but this video bring some light.
bigger disks dissipate better but will break more.
you need more strength to open a door near the axle than near the handle!
so bigger disks break more, dissipate better and are heavier.
Thank you. Really helps a lot
Great suggestions🚴🚴🚴💯
Doddy got a new watch! No more 'Bullet Time', Mr. Dodd?
Thanks 🙏 very detailed!!
Yo Doddy, lovely work dude. Hey try to avoid touching the nozzle of the thread locker to the thread as it can start the compound in the bottle curing and clog up the nozzle. Cheers!
Hi Doddy, if someone want to know about the "How" .. you nailed the subject right on the head :-)
As you mentioned, riders have to tune their braking units to the feeling they want when using them.
I ended up upgrading from mechanic to hydraulic (2 pistons) and different size of rotors 203 ice teck front .. 160 (180 to be on the rear)
very happy with these mods .. love the feeling when i need to brake quickly. :-)
Very good advice .. Cheers !!!
what brakes did you to with?
@@johnprice5457 Tektro .. not too expensive and does the job for me ;-)
good info that's for sure
4 pot front and 2 pot rear is what i am running. feels just right for me when riding enduro so i think i will stick with it
Those Mag trail breaks are sweet!
How did Mag break the trail? Was it winter in snow?
I LOVE MAGURA!
Shout out to Bicycle World in The woodlands Texas. They built my bike and nothing; absolutely nothing has come loose in almost two years of abuse.
I just purchased a Magura MT5e front brake and Magura cut the hose for me to the correct length. Amazing brake!
Very nice!
I really enjoyed this and felt I learned a lot, especially as my job for today is fitting new brakes to my trail bike and moving the old ones to my hardtail.
I had never considered Magura brakes before, but they seem to have a good range.
except the plastic lever body😂
@@Rastamaus556 it's not really plastic and it works great
Very good video, excellent information. If I may, I do have a correction, and I'd like to add this comment just for accuracy. Carpal tunnel syndrome affects the median nerve. Numbness in the thumb, index, middle, and half of the ring finger. Likewise, the ulnar nerve controls feeling in the little finger, and half the ring finger. The half ring seems odd, but may help identify a potential problem.
The reason I point this out is because the first time I noticed that only half of my ring finger was numb. The concern I had that the numbness was only affecting half of my finger was greater than my concern about the numbness.
Thanks for the video.
Loved Avid brakes. Nothing makes riding more exciting than knowing you have really bad brakes that work half the time.
Question: Can there be any difference in performance between same size discs (disc itself only), eg. cheaper vs more expensive? Should disc be upgraded or just focus on upgrading the caliber?
Yes, sram centreline are awful, shimano rt76/rt86 are excellent.
I changed to dh discs on my enduro. They are thicker, more heat resistent and not as noisy as the previous once.
I use aliexpress $7 stuff. No difference.
TomaCukor there’s definitely a difference. Rotors come in different materials, thickness, shape, slotting, size etc. and some last much longer than others.
@@Hunter_Bidens_Crackpipe_ I guess you don't know your stuff if you think there's no difference.
I just bought the aluminium version of the bike in the video. The canyon spectral al 6.0. It's such a nice bike and the four piston brakes really come in handy - I really notice them now I've seen this video!
The bike in the video is a canyon neurone
@@willbennett7107 oh sorry my mistake. They look quite similar
Yes they do they just have different travel
I’m no expert but I’ve been learning from the young guns here in NZ, they have the current skills and thinking. Brake lever positioning are best set for compliance in the attack position, quite vertical. Just watch the latest DH and Enduro racing. They tend not to hang over the back of the so much as in the past.. A strong low attack position provides more control (speed).
I normally start at 50 degrees and move it from there, right now i have it at around 60 degrees or so for dh, perfect mix between steep and the more attack position
So, I think on longer rides I'm getting the ulnar nerve numbness. Is there a specific direction I should roll my bars to alleviate that? Thank you for making these great videos!
I've got some Magura MT6's. I like them, even though can be tricky to bleed properly. I just wish spare parts for Magura weren't so expensive. If I want to shorten my levers it will cost me $140...JUST FOR A PAIR OF ONE-FINGER LEVERS.
hey man i have some of the stock 1 finger levers. if you want i could sell them to you for like 20 a piece +the ups shipping lable
I found some 1 finger levers for 80 cad for the pair
Although the hc3 levers are the best...
Hey love the video! Only thing i wish there was would be a guide to all the different numbers/letters when looking at brakes online. There's a lot of information and its not so obvious for us beginners. For example: Shimano SLX M7120 4 Piston Disc 203/F and 180/R SM-RT-66 rotor.
im a beginner, magura saves my life
Love my HC3 levers.. bit pricey but well worth it!
Paul Cook agreed. The one finger levers are perfect.
Good to know, i will be buying them then
This might be a an advert, but I have two All-Mountain / Enduro bikes, one with Magura MT5 and one with a similar Shimano system. Price wise they are very close but perfomance/brake power dosing and durability on the Magura brakes feel so much better.
Great video! do you have any recommendations for brake replacements for a cheaper bike? I bought a 29er hardtail and adjusted the stock brakes. they are still no good. Looking to get some new brakes for a budget ($60 or less)
Magura is awesome........just those delicate screws.
I went through a couple of brakes the last 6 years.
I started with a Hayes so1e 160/160mm 😂 which was totally garbage.
Then I switched to the other extreme, a Avid Code R 200/200mm which was a bit too optimistic 😅
Now I'm on the Magura MT Trail 203/180mm and they seem to be just right.
Perfect modulation but still strong enough to throw you over the bars.
Only the Storm HC rotors seem to make weird noises sometimes...I might switch back to my SRAM Centerline Discs.
The reason my brakes were squealing was because the caliper was at a slight angle creating vibrations in the rotor, hope this helps!
Also if the pistons are bending the rotor when you pull on the brake that could make it noisier
Any info on that shrink fit? Never seen it but would be bloody handy
Noticing how Doddy says front brake is responsible for majority of braking but Neil says its the back in his video.
I stand with Doddy.
it depends, if you are sitting on your saddle then the rear brake is responsible for the majority of braking but if you are standing up and slightly forwards then its the front one. I think Doddy is correct because this is gMBn
Approximately 60% to 80% of braking forces (torque) are generated from the front braking systems. (Variables included number of wheels, wheelbase, weight, etc)
As a vehicle moves forward and you apply the brakes, the center of gravity of the vehicle effectively shifts the 'load' forward. (this is known as weight transfer or more appropriately Load Transfer) This places more load and more momentum on the front tire(s). The front tire(s) therefore can handle the increased friction (traction), and can accept more braking force to stop the vehicle.
@@theferociousmuncher1771 🤔 I HIGHLY recommend the book "Physics for Dummies" good publication from Wiley.
I've had seal leakage issues on Maguras (and friends report it as well) that I have never had on SRAM, Shimano or Formulas. and yes I currently own at least one of each.
I've also had these Problems that I never had with my Shimano Saints. The Saints and the Codes work just so much. Everyone might think, that the Maguras are good and cheap, but they are just shit.
My Shimano M675 brakes leaked so much from the pistons I ended up selling them and I’m going to buy sram guides or codes
My maguras have never had seal issues, also the seal isn't that expensive to replace at a shop so it's not a big deal
Hey, can you make a magura bleed service video.
Shimano XT/XTR, metal finned Ice-tech pads and Ice-tech rotors. Choose 2 or 4 piston and rotor size based on the power you need. Saint/Zee if you ride DH. Done.
True. 😂
And magura if you want control
I love my mt7
O and gmbn tech it's the best
very good video ... i used all your tips to change the disks/pistons/ pads on my allmtb Hibike ...wow...many many thanks ...
Also.... I weigh in at 250, so for me I went a tad overboard for braking confidence... 203/180 with a Hope V4/E4 setup... predictable and spot on...
Same set up on both of my bikes
Great set up
I much prefer brake levels well away from my bars so my finger is quite long. I find I get much less arm pump as less muscles are used for the short movement compared to long. This is similar to Barrelli who has discussed brake lever angle and reach. Each to their own. Try both style and compare to be sure.
I know this seems way overkill for my XC Giant XCT 29er, but I put Shimano XT I-speb B with simi-metalic pads with 180mm ice tech rotors. Just because I have neurological problems this set up actually helps me greatly with modulation. They are really sensitive, but that works for me and I don't have lock up issues, but it a panic stop (which happened when an idiot literally jumped in front of me) they work absolutely incredible. I think brakes are really subjective in terms of parts. Do your homework and know your parts, try different manufacturers, there is always the Shimano, Sram preference between people right! I've actually been wanting to switch to Magura brakes, but it's just a financial thing for me!
Great video, cheers!
No such thing as overkill for brakes, my friend. They should be set up in whatever way it takes for you to have both comfort and peace of mind while riding :)
@@Phaethon666 lol you should hear how much grief I get for my brakes being over powered for an XC bike , even my 17 year old son says there too much, but I never have lock up, skidding issues. They work well as one finger use for me!
Great feel on Magura Mt5 / MT7, but the online complains about levers being made of butter proved true for me, with lever body cracking after a very mild crash. Will be replacing with shimano XT lever..
Did you tighten it down properly? Half of the time people just tighten it to what they think is good and move on since that's what they do with aluminum levers, it needs to be done properly
can you please tackle some about promax solve hydraulic brakes, thanks in advance
Forget it
Best Brakes for me: Formula! Best BrakePads: DiscoBrakes Ceramic Pro!
And because iam daily driving On Street. I get best Brakepower to the Ground with the Maxxis RE-Fuse 27,5 x 2.0 Version.
Have a great Day =)
What about kevlar or ceramic brake pads?
7:26 I find doing the bolts to the correct torque is more important. I've never used thread lock but I always torque to spec and I have never had a problem.
It would say on the installation instructions that come with your brake
@Rab. C. Nesbitt Most rotors have it laser etched on to them. They would also be in the installation manual on the manufacturers website. But as rule aim for 5nM and you should be ok
@Rab. C. Nesbitt sram has manuals for everything on its site. Discs have torque stamped on them usually. Brake lever clamp 2.8-3.4Nm. Mmx (shifter) 1-2Nm. Caliper bolts 9.5Nm, banjo bolt 5Nm. Thats for sram guides
Disc and caliper bolts come with threadlock on from new...well sram ones do
Something try to install a MDR-P 220mm magura disk on Rockshox Recon RL with only QM-45 adaptor (with 4 piston magura breaks) ? I need to add a standard adaptor " 2 adaptor to fit" Thanks for your comments help?
hello good video what is the gps support model??
Hi Doddy, I have always tight the screws on my bar by hand. But i have to work more seriously on my bike so I buy a torque tool, and when I use this tool with the right torque (from sram manual) for tight the brake lever on my bar, the screw damage the hole of my shifter.. so be aware that these part of the bike is in a light metal like aluminium and it’s easy to destroy it! I had to change the shifter.. and now i tight it by hand.. too scare to do this again 😕
The shifter attaches to brake clamp with different screw! Tightening brake to bar isnt ur shifter screw. The brake lever clamp is 2.8-3.4nm, but the shifter bracket screw.is only 1 - 2nm. Lower than most torque wrenches mtbr's have would go.
So probably you used brake clamp torque 3.4nm on shifter screw 1nm!
Rupert Wenn i was tightening the shifter on the brake clamp with 2nm torque but it was visibly too much for my shifter (2nm is the torque that I find in the Sram manual of my shifter) I use the second hole now because I don’t want to spend 100€ for replace the shifter. 😔
Every time I take out and take in the quick release wheel the rotor is usually won't go back in the right place. How can I fix this?
This is one LLLOOONNNGGG advert..
They said it was paid...
They re good when they work...
Hey Doddy, could you let me know what grease I shouted on my bearings?
You have grease coming out of your lungs when you yell?! Are you a cyborg or something?
Great one of these magura brake levers worth more than my bike 👌
I run MT7 with HC3 lever on my trials bikes. Best there is.
how long can brake pads last? if running downhills most days
Here I am using zoom brakes. They make me go ZOOOOM
When you Will SHRED the trails ????
Something they all have in common is the fact that they are all different.
What is the course of carpel tunnel ? Should I angle my bars up more or the levers? My right hand tingles like mad , great video 👍
Try *Ergon Grips* ...
they may look weird to some people, but the *LARGER Contoured Grip Area* distributes the vibration and 'impacts' to a Larger Surface AREA (instead of a thin line of 'tubular' grips that Do NOT Support the 'Heal' of your hand)...
also, the WIDER END of the grip allows for a lighter 'Grasp' of the Grip, allowing a more relaxed forearm without the fear of 'slipping off the end'...
I use the Large size, for slightly more surface area, but have a few small sizes on some of my less aggressive Bicycles...
Also, once you have your most ideal Grip, you may still have to 'play with' Handlebars (Width, Reach, Angle, Height, etc.)...
Ask among your Riding buddies (or LBS group rides or MeetUp or FB 'events') to try their bikes if they have different bar arrangements, or ask if they have extra bars to swap out, or buy used/new until you find YOUR Ideal Reach/Sweep/Height/Angle/etc...
Yet, I believe, *excellent grips are* the most logical *first step* in the process...
There are some other similar Grips from Bontrager and other manufacturers that also work well, and many that do not feel nearly as nice... my no-brainer GoTo Grip is Large Ergon GP1...
www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-tmus-us-revc&ei=tqjvXMimNa2Hggeyo58g&q=Ergon+Grips+GP1&oq=Ergon+Grips+GP1&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-serp.12..35i39j0j0i22i30l6.18092.18092..20348...0.0..0.161.161.0j1......0....1.........0i71.ELLf-v2o-r0
Some people like ESI Silicone or LizardSkinz Grips, and they are way grippier and cushier than typical grips... but the LARGER the Surface Area to distribute the 'loads', the longer and more relaxed your Rides can be...
33+mile MountainBike Rides, 111+mile GravelGrinders, 200+mile RoadRides...
(Yes, I have tested many other Grips... (and Saddles and Pedals and Handlebars and SeatPosts and Bicycles and Tires and Wheels and...))
HandleBARS (Height/Reach/Sweep/Angle/Flex/Damping/etc.) would be the next step, if the Grips do not resolve your issue...
Suspension Stem or Forks might be the next consideration...
It would be easier to help you if I knew more about; YOU, Your Bike, Your particular situation, your riding style and environs, etc...
(I just started with the default checklist for best resolution sequence...)
Wow thank you so much for your very in depth reply 👍 I tend to mostly get tingling fingers and numbness on bike parks when I’m on the brake a lot . I ride a trek fuel ex-8 which is getting quite old now and I’ve noticed that my friends newer bikes have much more supple front forks which might be a factor . I will defo check out the grips . I’ve taken the factory bars and stem off the trek and put a Easton 35 bar on and shortened the stem from 90mm to 40mm ? Might also have something to do with the reach I’ve changed .
Thanks again for your reply very helpful 👍
It's more than a good idea to use threadlocker on your disc bolts. I installed a new brake disc and failed to do so when I reused my old bolts (It was my first, cheap mtb with disc brakes) and spent the day bombing hills, we got to the top of a very steep hill on route to a new trail (Easily 30 mph going down it, oncoming traffic on the other side of the road) and when I pressed my brakes I could still rock my bike back and forward. Checked my disc, turns out 4 of my bolts had fallen out and 2 were hanging on by 2-3 threads max, I don't wanna know what'd have happened if we didn't stop that day.
They usually cant fall out. They would hit the fork and lock up your wheel .... wierd that 4 bolts would fall out
@@Dude-Smellmyhelmet It was the rear, not the front. All I know is, I left with 6 bolts and had 2 when I noticed lmfao.
Brown bike shorts...thats what would have happened😁 And maybe death...😬
I want a 1 finger lever with e bike cut off for my mt5e
But...... I couldn't take my eyes off the missing spanner just over your shoulder,! Sort it out Dods.!
Oh no you said it
I was too distressed by the 3 T handled torque wrenches over on the left. I could accept that 1 was missing as he had just used it. But the top one was facing a different way to the others. Only a savage would hang it the wrong way
a bit rude dont u think
Doddy, what are you using to wrap your cables? Spiral wrap? Is that an electrical product? Size recommendations? 10mm?
Kevin Dwight
Hi I personally use 5 mm spiral wrap get a much better tight wrap off it holds two cables together perfect
A few mods to do this. Doddy is using a spiral wrap here, the slickest is to use shrink wrap.
Can I use shimano deore xt brake with formula or magura rotors?
Magura rotors are 0.2 thicker than Shimano rotors. I doubt it will make much difference though.
My front forks have a rear facing mount. Holes are 1 1/8” apart.
Do you have a adapter for it? 180mm disc
I'm guessing that's an is mount, there are some adapters for it so you should be able to find one
shimano saint is beast of all brakes
Yeah... 75 percent deadstroke and bam all the power at once
DO THEY WEAR DIFFERENTLY ?
My trials brakes (prepare to cringe):
Front: Formula Cura 4, semi metallic pads, generic G3 style 203mm rotor, Redline Likewater suspension fluid (warranty voided)
Rear: Echo TR Hydraulic Rim Brake, red trial-compound pads spaced about 3mm from rim, Redline Likewater suspension fluid, rear rim contact surface is coated with an equal parts mixture of J-B Weld original two-part epoxy & Valspar’s Anti-Skid floor texture additive (mixed, applied with a brush, and allowed to dry into an almost skateboard-griptape-like coating)
So what you recomend for xc trail, 2 pots or 4 pots
I like his suggestion of 4 pot front where most of the braking occurs and 2 pot rear.
Mid level Shimano calipers with high end rotors and expensive pads- best combo, saves money.
Agreed. Been using a deore brakes with sintered pads and Slx rt66 rotors. Pretty strong with one finger.
Except for their stopping power, there is nothing at all to like about these overly complicated disc brakes. Going by all the videos I've seen, you really have to know what you're doing with disc systems. I was perfectly happy with the older, traditional V- brake system. Replacing brake pads was a snap (30 seconds or less), and adjustments were just as simple. I want to ride my bike, but I don't want it to be a chore or a bore.
#askgmbn Hey Doddy, I ride a 2014 Specialized Enduro Comp 29er and was wondering if I could do a straight suspension swap with higher travel. How much change would happen and what would it do?
I'm not doddy but that could depend
If you change it for a shock with a bigger stroke length that shouldn't be a problem but if the eye to eye changes it will change the geometry
How much money overall does this come out to after all customization?
Is there a difference between the silver 4 pots with blue rings and the black 4 pots with green rings
The rings are just for looks (customisation). I've taken mine out completely.
if i buy cheap brake rotor 180mm will it give stronger braking then included 160mm (shimano mt200 brakes)
Yes
Hi guys..are ceramic pads worth over the resin ones? Are they more powerful while making no noise like resins dont?
Yes and yes
Anyone fitting Maguras ....follow the manufacturers advice when fitting the clamp to the bar... Vitally important to do it right
for beginner use, whats better.. hydraulic or mechanical brakes? any specific brand that's lightweight and durable?
Hydraulic is better for sure. Magyar are quite light but pricey. Have a look around and see what you like most
are shimano v brakes assemblies any good
They’re pretty good compared to most v brakes; but there were better brands back then. I went with ProShifts on my 90s XC race bike. They’re still excellent for v brakes.
Hello guys😊. By any chance somebody knows where can I buy some 220mm rotor adapters for my maguras MT7? I have been looking for some to buy on Amazon, Ebay, Ali Express exet and I haven't have no luck. Thanks
Hi, can I put 203rotors on my rockshox reba rl 27.5?
Probably but u need to use spacers
#gmbntech what is the best lube to use for your chain? I normally use the Rock 'n' Roll lube for my chain. But would wax would be better?
I normally wash my bike on a Sunday as I use it to commute to work (14 km a day). I thoroughly clean my drive train and use the Rock 'n' Roll lube.
This depends on the area you are riding and what the weather is like. A dry wax lube is better in dusty situations and a wet lube is better in wet weather. If you do use a dry/wax lube it's best to completely degrease the drivetrain to help it stay on for longer.
@@gmbntech I live in Newcastle NSW (a suburb in Australia). It's autumn right now going into winter (winter is coming lol). We get the occasional rain here and there. I always remove my chain and degrease it every time I wash my bike on Sundays. I will stick with the current lube (Rock 'n Roll Gold) I use for now as it is easier to degrease than using wax. Thank you for the answer, much appreciated. Love the show by the way.
@@shadow7423 Thanks! 🤘👊
Has anyone out their run metallic brake pads on the front and organic pads on the rear , I wonder how it would work and could you feel the difference
Nick Watkins
I'm running the comfort pads in the front and they're not worth it.
Yes, they last long, but have almost no braking power...at least for the first 10-15 attempts.
They need to heat up.
The performance ones last long too and are way better.
Front ones lasted a year, the ones in the rear are also a year old and are still fine.
I'm using the bike every day for about 2 hours.
Bbb performance organic front (a slight semi met) and semi mets on rear (as I use rear a lot to modulate speed)
Hi GMBN Tech,
I have a little problem with my front break. When I have to break hard, the break makes very load shrill noises. Sould I change the brackets or could there be other reasons?
#askgmbntech
Might need new pads
HI GUYS DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS A DECENT TORQUE WRENCH THAT IS CHEAP IM ON A TIGHT BUDGET
THANKS
Sealy pro 2-24nm I use. Certified and ok brand. The scale isnt easiest, but once u get it, its simple. ..www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-8-inch-2-24nm-1-47-17-70lb-ft-Micrometer/dp/B000RO1ZCG
Whatever you get You need to make sure you get one that is certified and INDIVIDUALLY tested and comes with its test cert.
Defo not ones that are not certified like those 1 setting.ones, and absolutely not the ones that twist and point a needle...for one they are v awkward to use.