Holy parts....lol I love my ugly af....can't wait bro you do awesome stuff.....man that's gonna be a pretty good size rig man I love seeing what you build man......wow I have to keep editing this comment.....lol it looks killer with the carbon fiber and brass then the brite orange.....hell yea the rims are sweet ....I still got a blue Atlas body I want to use.....great build man
New to your show. I would prefer to build my own. Now I have found you on here you are my Master . I love your builds as your colour scheme is a lot like mine that I like . I have started to buy the parts for a 1:24 build of my own .
Welcome! Glad you found the channel and hopefully you’ll find some tips or tricks for your 1/24 build! The custom paint is the best part…. -Thanks so much for tuning in!
So absolutely hard and trick!!! Great content keepem coming !! Thank you I don't think I've ever seen a street truck with your eye that might be cool..
nice build I've done the atlas body slammed down looks and fits perfect on the ugly. The FCX24 body is a little heavier but the detail is amazing!!! I cant find WT micros wheels can you send a link? I like the military wheels they would look great with the powerwagon body. With all orange with the pancake etc. You should paint the body two tone black and TS-92 it would look sick!!!!!
I added the WT link to the description. Those Mil Spec wheels are spoken for on the C10, but I think these will work perfect. Got a great paint scheme in mind for it. Bit of a Mofo theme and all.
Thank you! This Mofo UAF chassis V3 is out now. Or for double the cost the cheat code from Mazz Designs. Both great and very different from each other.
I like the view at 4:12, I've had to use one of your videos when I first got my scx24 to work out what I missed. Do the portals have bearings, or is it just a light fit on the shafts? The only problem I've had with Injora parts is there old axle housing. The stock servo mount fitted but an aftermarket one wouldn't. They had a whole batch of incorrectly machined parts. Credit where it's due, they refunded my money no problem, and they discontinued those axle housing's.
No bearings in the knuckles or portal boxes, the brass acts as bushings. I've had countless tolerance issues with Injora parts... but they are super cheap and have their place.
@@bcochener Might be quite a valuable resource, if you're in to it, to do a 'Greatest hit's and misses by Injora' video, explaining which parts worked and why and which failed for you and why. Granted, that'll invite the peanut gallery to moan about their opposite experience to yours. But at least it'd be a baseline for builders of stuff to watch out for. :)
Angle on the set of MOFO portals was off. I sent them back in to him & he fixed plus sent back a axle, gears & steering gear. Had to wait a while though. Hopefully it gets fixed so new sets won't have that problem. Still like the brand though!
I think I will pull another drivers side knuckle from a another new set I have here and try that. Seems like it is some little thing off with that knuckle. I know he had to bend the steering arms on them by hand (they were off from factory), so I wonder if that is it? I wouldn't think that would affect this, but it could be putting undo pressure on that axleshaft connection. Hope your gets working smoothly. Slow and steady... check each assembly!
Ooh that stinks. Not sure your situation, but I have been able to thread in another screw (in and out) and eventually work the broken piece out the other end. Good luck!
7.4Volt BEC. It just sends more power to the servo when you have nicer high end servos that can run on higher voltage ratings. The best way to get peak performance out of the good servos, very helpful with heavy rigs!
How did you get the SMP to clear the frame rails without cutting or bending the frame? Im building mine right now and the motor rubs against the frame on the right side
Mine just cleared barely. You could use an Injora aluminum spacer on the top cross brace nearest the motor to flex it out just at that point a tad. I did that on my 6x6 UAF/ROP build and it worked perfectly. Just used the smallest spacer in their pack. Check the video out for more: ua-cam.com/video/2AYJ83kz7-Q/v-deo.htmlsi=KqwWFXSDhEEqDdPZ
@bcochener thats what i ended up doing, after seeing yours though, im wondering if i can fix it by adjusting the mesh. Fortunately the carbon fiber frame is flexible enough to where the spacer idea works pretty well
I noticed the Hawai'i License plate and you keep mentioning "Island Style." Are you, by any chance, in Hawai'i? I'm a Native Hilo boy living in the Mainland now....I miss my home but with prices sky rocketing everywhere, I can't imagine just surviving there AND building an RC anything although I have a lot of personal friends in Hilo who are....If so, more power to ya, man! A Hui Hou! P.S. Those deep dish 5 star wheels with the corrugated sides are the Old School Weld Convo-Pro wheels that were popular in Hawai'i in the late 90's and early 2000's....in some circles they're still really popular with the Toyota Celica SR-5 guys in Hawai'i. (only because you asked in your video)
This is basically a full size Komodo+ squeezed in a short can. So bigger magnets than the micros, should be more torque. Haven’t really test driven it yet though. It is nice and quite now though!
I'm running one of these MOFO "Pancake" style motors in mine....This thing is smooth and SUPER Torquey....And the FOC feature makes it even smoother...
That’s stinks. The V1s are finicky for sure. I’m about to install his V2 kit, which is new knuckles with better alignment to the dogbone and a new drive cup that has half circle notched to allow better clearance to the dogbone. I’m curious to see if these alleviate all the issues. - you can just buy the V2 kit and see if it fixes your issues. The portal boxes are unchanged.
I really like the outcome...but....I really think it would be way cooler if you would show the actual process and not just jump to the finished step. And I know the argument that says: "It would be a way too long video if I did that." Right?...and my argument is: "You do know there are other builders who do more in their builds showing every step don't you?".... So, yes, I could just watch their videos....And I have. But, I'm also the dude that likes to watch many different sources to glean what I think are the "better" styles, or processes, that help make my build go a lot smoother....But, then again, what do I know anyway? These are just my two Pesos anyway....
I see no point in turning screws on camera. Most people that do that speed it up anyways. I have covered most everything pretty in depth over my builds, so some of these newer builds I’m showing less as not to repeat the same stuff in every video. If I didn’t cover it here, I most likely already have. Always happy to help answer a build question though.
I've solved many problems watching your videos. They're great learning tools.
Thank you so much! I am really glad they are helping out the community.
Thanks for sharing Rcfam 👊🏾😎
Cool this thing will be a little beast
Holy parts....lol I love my ugly af....can't wait bro you do awesome stuff.....man that's gonna be a pretty good size rig man I love seeing what you build man......wow I have to keep editing this comment.....lol it looks killer with the carbon fiber and brass then the brite orange.....hell yea the rims are sweet ....I still got a blue Atlas body I want to use.....great build man
Thanks Billy!
Your build videos are my new favorite videos to watch, that thing is beautiful
Appreciate that!
😍another sick build my friend can’t wait to see it finished and crawling
Thanks Sammy!
New to your show. I would prefer to build my own. Now I have found you on here you are my Master . I love your builds as your colour scheme is a lot like mine that I like . I have started to buy the parts for a 1:24 build of my own .
Welcome! Glad you found the channel and hopefully you’ll find some tips or tricks for your 1/24 build! The custom paint is the best part….
-Thanks so much for tuning in!
So absolutely hard and trick!!! Great content keepem coming !! Thank you I don't think I've ever seen a street truck with your eye that might be cool..
Very cool build B. I'm envious of your RC shelf. Keep up the good work
Thanks
This is great. You saved yourself the 140$ of buying a scx24 and slowly replacing every single component like most people do lol. Awesome build man
Absolutely beautiful 😍
Looking awesome,
Thank you! Cheers!
nice build I've done the atlas body slammed down looks and fits perfect on the ugly. The FCX24 body is a little heavier but the detail is amazing!!! I cant find WT micros wheels can you send a link? I like the military wheels they would look great with the powerwagon body. With all orange with the pancake etc. You should paint the body two tone black and TS-92 it would look sick!!!!!
I added the WT link to the description. Those Mil Spec wheels are spoken for on the C10, but I think these will work perfect. Got a great paint scheme in mind for it. Bit of a Mofo theme and all.
Your videos are fantastic! With your experience what chassis would you recommend that is currently available?
Thank you! This Mofo UAF chassis V3 is out now. Or for double the cost the cheat code from Mazz Designs. Both great and very different from each other.
I like the view at 4:12, I've had to use one of your videos when I first got my scx24 to work out what I missed.
Do the portals have bearings, or is it just a light fit on the shafts?
The only problem I've had with Injora parts is there old axle housing. The stock servo mount fitted but an aftermarket one wouldn't. They had a whole batch of incorrectly machined parts. Credit where it's due, they refunded my money no problem, and they discontinued those axle housing's.
No bearings in the knuckles or portal boxes, the brass acts as bushings. I've had countless tolerance issues with Injora parts... but they are super cheap and have their place.
@@bcochener Might be quite a valuable resource, if you're in to it, to do a 'Greatest hit's and misses by Injora' video, explaining which parts worked and why and which failed for you and why. Granted, that'll invite the peanut gallery to moan about their opposite experience to yours. But at least it'd be a baseline for builders of stuff to watch out for. :)
Looks awesome! What wheels an tires did you choose? They look good
Check the description for chapters. @2:25, @30:00. Went with WTM & PH-MB. Link to WT in the desc.
Angle on the set of MOFO portals was off. I sent them back in to him & he fixed plus sent back a axle, gears & steering gear. Had to wait a while though. Hopefully it gets fixed so new sets won't have that problem. Still like the brand though!
I think I will pull another drivers side knuckle from a another new set I have here and try that. Seems like it is some little thing off with that knuckle. I know he had to bend the steering arms on them by hand (they were off from factory), so I wonder if that is it? I wouldn't think that would affect this, but it could be putting undo pressure on that axleshaft connection. Hope your gets working smoothly. Slow and steady... check each assembly!
Oh yeah, I agree, MOFO has customer service second to none. And He's super chill to talk to. He definitely takes care of his customers.
I had a screw break on my axial. Any pointers you can share on to how to drilled that out or anything 😮 thanks
Ooh that stinks. Not sure your situation, but I have been able to thread in another screw (in and out) and eventually work the broken piece out the other end.
Good luck!
In the intro, you said to power the servo you have a 7.4… (i didn’t understand what you called it). Could you explain why the 7.4 thing matters?
7.4Volt BEC. It just sends more power to the servo when you have nicer high end servos that can run on higher voltage ratings. The best way to get peak performance out of the good servos, very helpful with heavy rigs!
Gotcha, thanks! Love the videos, been learning a lot from them.
@@dakotamollen1081 Thank you so much!
How did you get the SMP to clear the frame rails without cutting or bending the frame? Im building mine right now and the motor rubs against the frame on the right side
Mine just cleared barely. You could use an Injora aluminum spacer on the top cross brace nearest the motor to flex it out just at that point a tad. I did that on my 6x6 UAF/ROP build and it worked perfectly. Just used the smallest spacer in their pack. Check the video out for more: ua-cam.com/video/2AYJ83kz7-Q/v-deo.htmlsi=KqwWFXSDhEEqDdPZ
@bcochener thats what i ended up doing, after seeing yours though, im wondering if i can fix it by adjusting the mesh. Fortunately the carbon fiber frame is flexible enough to where the spacer idea works pretty well
@@shyonemami7388 good deal!
Really sweet build as usual! Good to know the OD trans gears won’t swap over as I was wondering that myself
Yeah, that would have been nice... but oh well.
I noticed the Hawai'i License plate and you keep mentioning "Island Style." Are you, by any chance, in Hawai'i? I'm a Native Hilo boy living in the Mainland now....I miss my home but with prices sky rocketing everywhere, I can't imagine just surviving there AND building an RC anything although I have a lot of personal friends in Hilo who are....If so, more power to ya, man! A Hui Hou! P.S. Those deep dish 5 star wheels with the corrugated sides are the Old School Weld Convo-Pro wheels that were popular in Hawai'i in the late 90's and early 2000's....in some circles they're still really popular with the Toyota Celica SR-5 guys in Hawai'i. (only because you asked in your video)
The Hawaii plate was just paying homage brother! I’m in Austin, Texas.
Fantastic!
So is there a difference, as in a reason, for the "pancake" form vs the Micro Komo/ Nano style brushless cans?
Thanks!!!
This is basically a full size Komodo+ squeezed in a short can. So bigger magnets than the micros, should be more torque. Haven’t really test driven it yet though. It is nice and quite now though!
@@bcochener Ah! Didn't realize the size difference with the mag's. The Mofo seem's to take up a good bit less space over the full Komo.
I'm running one of these MOFO "Pancake" style motors in mine....This thing is smooth and SUPER Torquey....And the FOC feature makes it even smoother...
Damn you shove that whole foam in the tires?
Yep, for these big boys!
@@bcochener gotta try some flubberstufferz
Oh yeah.....I had the same thought until I actually did it and WOW they do fit in there 😁
I had to pull my mofo portals off. All they did was bind, break axles, or destroy the cups. I was so damn bummed....
That’s stinks. The V1s are finicky for sure. I’m about to install his V2 kit, which is new knuckles with better alignment to the dogbone and a new drive cup that has half circle notched to allow better clearance to the dogbone. I’m curious to see if these alleviate all the issues. - you can just buy the V2 kit and see if it fixes your issues. The portal boxes are unchanged.
@bcochener These were the V2's that I was using.
Where did you get the portals?
@0:41
why are you using stock drive shaft
Just choice. Nothing wrong with them.
🥰🤩💥💯👍👏
😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂🙃🙃😉🙃😊
Sup Brian
Hey William!
I really like the outcome...but....I really think it would be way cooler if you would show the actual process and not just jump to the finished step. And I know the argument that says: "It would be a way too long video if I did that." Right?...and my argument is: "You do know there are other builders who do more in their builds showing every step don't you?".... So, yes, I could just watch their videos....And I have. But, I'm also the dude that likes to watch many different sources to glean what I think are the "better" styles, or processes, that help make my build go a lot smoother....But, then again, what do I know anyway? These are just my two Pesos anyway....
I see no point in turning screws on camera. Most people that do that speed it up anyways. I have covered most everything pretty in depth over my builds, so some of these newer builds I’m showing less as not to repeat the same stuff in every video. If I didn’t cover it here, I most likely already have. Always happy to help answer a build question though.